UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Pantontino on June 12, 2003, 11:51:19 pm
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Did anybody else spot this. The caption doesn't tell you, but it is Boysen's Groove on the Wavelength hillside. Is this the first time the BMC have put a bouldering shot on the front cover?
I did it again tonight and I must admit the proposed V3 grade felt pretty harsh. I was with a couple of old school punters (Mark Lynden and Ted Sylvester, who were pretty useful back in their day; interestingly Mark did the first ascent of the Pebble on the Utopia block back in the early 80s) and neither managed to get up it. Oh well, I guess there is a tradition of giving classic problems upsetting grades.
I also did the sit down start to the SP Arete just up behind the actual Wavelength block. This was really good; a series of tricky slaps on lovely slopers. Can't think why I'd not done it before. Has anyone else done this? It felt V5ish, but could be something completely different as I have done so little climbing in the last month.
Cheers, Simon.
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Yes i did spot it was boysen's groove, which is quite weird considering I've never even been to wavelangth, never mind done the problem.
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V3 for Boysens Groove? I suppose there's only one tricky move in the middle of the problem. Are there going to be any more teaser pages from the new guide put on the web? I was trying a problem in the satellites which is the arete on the right side of the block with the V2 5c ramp on it, has it been done? Its on the block on page 6 of northern soul with problem number 2 on it.
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on boysens groove if you static the move to the big jug at the top it feels quite hard for v3 but if you got a mat and some spotters and you dyno it it feels much easier. don't know but think it's about fair
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Wifey says V4 an you dont wanna argue with her.....
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Maybe I could put a taster page online - I'll talk to my techy advisor (and of course Bubba), see what he says.
That line up in the satellites may well be unclimbed, I've never heard it mentioned before. Is it a sds? How high? How many moves?
As for Boysen's Groove, it is pretty heightist - I reckon if you are less than 5.10 (say, only Boreal foot tall!) it would be really powerful.
Cheers, Simon.
Sorry about the bad pun, it just slipped out...
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No problem if you want to put a taster up on here Pantontino, I'd be more than happy - just send it my way and I'll get it sorted.
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i think the first issue of summit had a 'bouldering' shot of someone on a glacial boulder in the himalayas...