UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Bubba on May 29, 2003, 02:45:19 pm
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Well, it's hotting up big style now, and soon the midges and the bracken will own the grit once more.....
...so, what's a man to do? Where are your best summer bouldering locations - surely not everyone heads for the polished limestone horrors that are Rubicon/Snore/Crag X ?
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summer for me will probably be:
- polished limestone horrors
- evening grit, splitting tips, shite conditions etc
- shady routes
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I suppose there's always night time bouldering:
(http://www.dangeroussite.com/images/peak_bouldering/Hew-robin-b5.jpg)
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I got a secret north-facing limestone crag that needs developing, that might be a good hot summer choice.
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Its not roche abbey is it dave? ;)
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Watch for the wind - then go up to an exposed venue. Good conditions can be yours in august. Try almscliffe, earl, higgar east, burbage southeast or any of the moorland venues.
Long days give good opportunities to sample the delights of simon's seat, rylstone, dovestones etc ...
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If you really need to breezy evenings are the way, but the real answer is to disappear into a cellar or garage to come out ripping. Summer is for the freaks who play with ropes and climb on dead fish. :batangel:
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FUck this shit!
Just been out on the rock and it was like climbing jelly fish. It was so humid I thought I was back in Nam!
I'm retreating to the garage and I'm gonna come back out in September and whip some ass!
Laters home boys!
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Go (North)west young man. Been up to South Lakes today and it is great in these conditions. Not so polished and shit hot problems. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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you all got air-con in yer cellars or what :?:
Mine's hotter than outside. Mind you, there's nothing to climb in there either. Just a couple of bikes and an open bag of cement. :wink:
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Dunno what it was like in the rest of the country, but down here in sunny somerset, with a nice breeeze it was bloody lovely.
One of the best bouldering sessions I've ever had. A big change since two days ago.
:D :D :D :D
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Damn well crackin flags out there this morning. Its a perfect morning for Crag X, get there before about 11 and the sun shines through the trees onto the flat bit. Its heart breaking to be stuck at W.O.R.K on a day like this. Why couldn't it have been so nice yesterday instead of wee'ing with rain all afternoon. Rubbercon was ok if you hid under the steep bits, and I met some off duty gritstone heroes :wink:
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Yo yo yo did you go to cragx yesterday then? was it in nick?
kudos wall got some shade later on, was quite a good day all in all, we all did at least 1 problem, which at rubicon is pretty good going. Scouse and Kim iced that horrendous whitebait mono start dyno thing, which was painfull just to watch. Biatch.
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yoh Dave, wat they think of the white bait horror?
did it last year for first time in donkeys years and felt hard, defo harder than last time i did it, sumting must of gone off it.
Lovely mono moves, mmmmmmmmmm dream of the frankejura and book your physio appointments
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Deffo something for the conneseur of nasty drilled holds. I nearly had it but lost interest, scouse seemed to rate it though.
Call me old fashioned, but i like a hold you can get at least 3 fingers and thumb onto and bite down on, or failing that a pebble will do. I'd not down with this mono and openhanding shit.
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One more exam to go tomorrow morning, perfect weather.
revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder?
:crazy:
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My forearms feel a little stretched this morning, although there is something strangely satisfying about the sensation. Pulling on monos make me think I'm as good as Gullich.
Those monos also some of the only open handed holds on Rubicon- hence one of the only problems I can do there.
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boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder? revision? boulder?
If you go bouldering, you'll just feel guilty that you're not revising, so I'd be boring and stay in - remember you only get stronger whilst you're resting.....
....unless it's an easy exam in which case fuggit, get out there...
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That's a good problem that whitebait thing. Think it helps if you can put your foot in that enormous pocket affair.
I didn't bother with CragX, I had an appointment with some lamb mince. Think I'm gonna go on friday to finish the HULK.... RAA RAAAAAA! (that was an attempt at psyche)
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oooooh, mince!
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yeah down with that crag x vibe now me necks better, might have to ease myself back in cos all ive done for the last week is eat and drink
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yeah whats new you say before any of you smart arse bastards say it
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Is the mono thing a bit left of kudos and a millers tale? Its quite good if that is the one. Speaking of rubicon, has anyone put a sit start to kudos?
Cheers
James
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Yeah, thats the one (that mono problem thang) I think it gets a 6? which felt about right.
Re Sit Starts to Kudos, I dunno - harris will know, the next time I see him I will ask, I haven't seen any holds other than that massive foot jug?
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A nice young chap called Huffy did the sit-start to Kudos just the other week. Dunno if it was the first ascent or not, but he started in two very low undercut pockets sitting on the deck and launched himself for the starting ledge via a very large move. The crux still seems to be doing the orignal problem though........but now its a bit longer!
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I think this (http://www.cragx.com/articles/issue02/crimp/topo.htm) says the sitter adds no grade, sort of implying its been done before. I was gonna try it on sunday but the nettles put me off and we didn't have a spare mat to cover them with. I can quite belive huffy will have dispatched this with gay abandon though, he's quite brutal.
We were there again last nite trying the press again (I need week off now) and can i ask people not to tickmark every foothold on the wall please (someone who went there monday or tuesday), especially since that wall never gets wet and thus any chalk which doesn't get brushed off will stay indeffinetly. Some of those holds ticked would have been visible even if climbing at night by blindfold, ticks are not needed, especially as it looks appauling and its only 6 foot from tourists, fishermen etc.
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Well, it's hotting up big style now, and soon the midges and the bracken will own the grit once more.....
...so, what's a man to do? Where are your best summer bouldering locations - surely not everyone heads for the polished limestone horrors that are Rubicon/Snore/Crag X ?
Why not head a bit further north? Woodwell/Trowbarrow way. Okay, no good for evenings, but spot on for weekends.
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I've been meaning to have a day out at Fairy Steps doing lots of nice easy stuff for about 2 years now - just need to get out of bed early and go for it, instead of the usual hangover and crawling out to the Peak later.
Having said that, we were due to go to Lord's Seat last weekend but the weather looked too iffy.
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I've been meaning to have a day out at Fairy Steps doing lots of nice easy stuff for about 2 years now - just need to get out of bed early and go for it, instead of the usual hangover and crawling out to the Peak later.
Having said that, we were due to go to Lord's Seat last weekend but the weather looked too iffy.
Ewww, bit grim that place...
Dont go on your own, or you may not come out (Very Blair Witch Esq!)
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Is it grim? In what way? Crap, or just the location?
Woodwell is all far too hard for me :(
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Is it grim? In what way? Crap, or just the location?
Woodwell is all far too hard for me :(
Bit dark and shady. Problems are not great, apart from the really hard stuff. Though this is jsut my personal opinion
I dont know what grade you climb but there is plenty of sub V7's at Woodwell.
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Might have a look then in that case.... St Bees sounds nice too although I hear mixed reports.
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Might have a look then in that case.... St Bees sounds nice too although I hear mixed reports.
Not been yet, but have heard its smashing!
As for Woodwell, dont forget Woodwell Ort Road, more sub V7 stuff there
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TH
Whereabouts is there to boulder in Sunny Somerset (whilst you're not revising? I sympathise, with a 15k word MSc dissertation to complete whilst pulling 50odd hours a week at work :( )?
I work in Somerset (Yeovil) but live in Dorset, so the sun is almost down by the time I get home and the yomp down to the coast is a pain in the arse when its dark.
LR