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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Schnell on April 18, 2018, 11:28:45 am

Title: hot grit
Post by: Schnell on April 18, 2018, 11:28:45 am

The weather is warm but the lime is wet, so I'm looking at problems to go at on the grit that are *less friction dependent or otherwise good in warm weather due to being exposed/very shady etc. preferably nearish to Sheffield anywhere in the 7s. Any suggestions?

Title: Re: hot grit
Post by: mark20 on April 18, 2018, 12:50:19 pm

Moorland stuff a good bet, but a big day out.
Dovestones, Back Tor, Howshaw. Bits of Howshaw take some run off but would probably be OK by the weekend.
Ashop Edge (Kinder Northern Edges) - Crayon Angel, Chariots of Ire, Float like a Butterfly, 3 quality 7A/+s

Trying to think of shadier stuff that aren't as long walk ins -
Chatsworth - Desperot & Shy Boy two good 7As
Ramshaw
Bradley Edge / Quarry - Swingers Party may be OK as it's fairly crimpy
Priddock Woods - North facing and quite positive holds so would be fine in warmer weather. Only one 7 but it's good and not conditions dependant.

Title: Re: hot grit
Post by: MischaHY on April 26, 2018, 10:21:55 am

Brass Monkeys might be alright?

Title: Re: hot grit
Post by: tomtom on April 26, 2018, 02:11:20 pm

Quote from: MischaHY on April 26, 2018, 10:21:55 am

Brass Monkeys might be alright?

Hmm - I'd say no. Gets the sun and those slopers on the lip are all part of the problem....

Title: Re: hot grit
Post by: Schnell on April 26, 2018, 02:13:06 pm

Thanks for tips! Though like tomtom says Brass Monkeys in warm weather would be grim ;)

Sounds like lime might be drying out anyway.

Title: Re: hot grit
Post by: tomtom on April 26, 2018, 02:34:49 pm

I don't know where you're based - but much of the Lancs grit is high up and has shade. E.G. Blackstone edge.

Also, quarried grit (in the shady parts) comes into play more...

Often if its overcast and theres a good breeze its not as bad as you think it might be. But some problems will always require those frosty velcro winter mornings...

Title: Re: hot grit
Post by: fatneck on April 26, 2018, 04:32:30 pm

Blackstone Edge is a great shout as well as Stony Egde, Dove Lowe etc

Title: Re: hot grit
Post by: andy popp on April 26, 2018, 06:41:48 pm

Quote from: fatneck on April 26, 2018, 04:32:30 pm

Blackstone Edge is a great shout as well as Stony Egde, Dove Lowe etc

All of these. I went to Stony Edge on a warm summer's day and it was nice, climbing up to low 7s.

Title: Re: hot grit
Post by: old cheese on April 27, 2018, 04:08:14 pm

Some woodland boulders. But watch out for the goose nesting on top of one of the classics

Sorry, just re read op. Not suitable for a number of reasons and cannot delete. Ignore me