UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Bonjoy on October 31, 2016, 10:11:50 am
-
Here’s a real mixed bag, three I forgot to mention on recent update, plus one I did in Font last week (posting here to remind me to email bleau.info as much as anything else).
Torridin area, Sheildaig, Camas an Leim, GR: NG81935542
This is a good problem at a really beautiful little beach 10mins easy walk from village. Found it while checking out the beach which was mentioned in one of these best wild swimming spot type lists. The crag is some sort of black volcanic stuff, maybe basalt. There is scope for a few other bits and a good looking roof crack route (E4?) to do.
Scotch Aig 7A+ - Sit start on jugs at the back of the big low roof, cross the roof to a lip, which is climbed rightward to finish via flakes. Didn’t top out as I didn’t have gardening/abseiling kit with me.
Pike Crag, Beresford Dale
Full Nettle Jacket 6A– On the far righthand side of the crag. Highball scoopy overhang.
Goosegrass 6C – A few metres left of FMJ climb the gulge on pockets and slopers to a highball slabby wall E2 6b-ish. Think Ned actually did this one first.
Cuvier, La Reconnaissance
Bleau’s ‘ard 7A – Do the first move of Le Toit du Talion then gain and climb the left arete via the low lip
-
Scotch Aig
https://www.instagram.com/p/BISPp1eDDcp/
-
Scotch Aig 7A+ - Sit start on jugs at the back of the big low roof, cross the roof to a lip, which is climbed rightward to finish via flakes. Didn’t top out as I didn’t have gardening/abseiling kit with me.
Back around.
Looks cool actually. I expect Stork or ian taylor or richieb have the crag on their "to do" list..
-
Scotch Aig
https://www.instagram.com/p/BISPp1eDDcp/
Bonjoy, I PM'd you about this but no reply so trying here too.
I went to check out Camas an Leim the other day, it's a cool spot. I climbed something in the area of Scotch Aig but from your description and insta pic suspect it wasn't what you did. There was some wet rock so I did the logical dry thing, here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/100362744@N02/42034515330/in/dateposted/. I know it was a while ago that you were there but can you remember how this compares with where you went? Your insta pic has you going through the roof further right (your left hand is on a hold I used for my right) while I was on the far left. Did you then continue rightwards along the lip to rock into the wee niche above the right end of the roof?
I'll probably go back and try to sort out some top outs and landings and it would be good to try your original problem.
Oh, and the rock is Lewisian Gneiss. I don't know why but sometimes the steeper stuff is dark and blocky like that, kinda similar to dolerite in a way - it's the same at the Gruinard sport crags. Pretty rare to find good gneiss bouldering up here, so well done!
-
[nerd]
Lewisian Gneiss is a catch-all term for a huge suite of rocks of a similar (~2.5 billion years!) gneisses. There's a big difference in the minerals in different layers, and that has a strong control on how it erodes, hence the darker stuff ending up blocky, whereas the green stuff can be rounded.
[/nerd]
-
Hi, I replied to pm now. Have been off grid in scotland.
Yeah, SA goes through roof further right and then goes right to a flake.
My guess was that the black Rock was a basaltic dyke within the gneiss but my igneous geology knowledge is pretty thin.
-
Thanks Bonjoy and thanks for the PM. They seem to be having a bit of an issue at the moment so I have read your reply but couldn't reply myself!
Yep, I agree that there's probably more to do there, and that crack route looks good. I'll try to get back and put some time into cleaning topouts and see what emerges...
-
Nice one. Keen to see what else you climb. Good luck.