UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: jstrongman on June 30, 2020, 12:50:17 pm
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Last night I managed to get Dan Varian's old cave project in Boulder Britain ticked.
https://vimeo.com/user118682877/review/433959917/2b15dee064 (https://vimeo.com/user118682877/review/433959917/2b15dee064)
I have called it Shipwrights (as a bit of a nod to all the carpentry and woodwork, including a beastmaker, which I have been using for my lockdown training, and also to Dan V/Carlisle Sloper for finding the line). In the end I found some slightly different beta to the way Dan was trying it and being 6'4" let me to have heel on at least for the start of one of the critical throws. Grade wise for me it felt similar to blacking out the friction 7C, be interesting to see how others get on, it climbs really well with some great whole body moves. Took 4 sessions, with a last minute dash yesterday evening, I had fallen off the last move the day before, so was pretty tired, but got it first try yesterday. It did however probably take 6 weeks and a couple of wasted trips to get the conditions right. Needs evening sun, westerly to south westerly wind, and ideally some calm days and small tides.
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https://vimeo.com/433959917
Link doesn't work, this is it, though. good climbing, that looks great.
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Looks great!
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Thanks for sorting the link out. It does climb really well, only took 10 years to get it done after Dan spotted it!! The extension might take another 10!!
https://vimeo.com/15256084 @2:31
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Nice one James!!!!
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Thanks for sorting the link out. It does climb really well, only took 10 years to get it done after Dan spotted it!! The extension might take another 10!!
Looks great.
Does the extension go further left?
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That's a rather circuituous way of ending up stood on the shelf ;) Well done tho, it looks cool, funky rock.
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Looks great.
Does the extension go further left?
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Yes basically that big RH bump I make, you would need to get that with your LH, there is a picture right at the end of Dan's video, it finishes right out on the nose, would be really cool, the holds are there, it just a pity it is wet most of the time, end of the summer maybe?
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Good effort James! Glad to see you get this done. :beer2:
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Just in time for the new Boulder Britain :)
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You'll be wanting info on my cutting edge developments too then Grimer? :)
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Yes, just stick them in the post to me, Chris. PO box 62, Treestump, Nebraska.
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you have mail.
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Looks great.
Does the extension go further left?
Yes basically that big RH bump I make, you would need to get that with your LH, there is a picture right at the end of Dan's video, it finishes right out on the nose, would be really cool, the holds are there, it just a pity it is wet most of the time, end of the summer maybe?
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Perhaps one of those portable fans would have an affect?
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The extension [Master Shipwright 7C+/8A] has now been climbed by Mikey Cleverdon https://www.instagram.com/p/CEASkIAjyoT/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/p/CEASkIAjyoT/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link) the boy is on a mission this summer!!
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Geddin Mikey!