UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on April 26, 2007, 03:30:05 pm
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Wondering if anyone would be interested in having one of these? Not a classic venue but could be useful as it can seep after rain and not be worth a trip.
I go few times a week at moment so could keep it updated?
What do you think?
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Sounds good, but I'm biased. Still not been back. Need to get my lazy arse in gear.
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has the ban been lifted?
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Not officially.
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Not officially.
I thought it had, think BMC own the land now.....?
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It's hard to be sure. They haven't updated their RAD for ages. I'll defo be going if it's official.
Anyone really know the situation?
PS- Where do you park nowadays?
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http://www.climbingcrags.co.uk/ViewCrag.aspx?id=797
Last update June 06. Very helpful.
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It's hard to be sure. They haven't updated their RAD for ages. I'll defo be going if it's official.
Anyone really know the situation?
PS- Where do you park nowadays?
Lay by next to resevoir wall. Room for 3 cars there. If not then up the hill at top of crag.
Incidently, after todays sun it will be bone dry. Was a tad moist in places this morning.
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Thanks Adam. May have to have a look. Brownstones was too greasy tonight.
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Was climbing there today and the site manager comes over to have a word. He isnt bothered about people climbing there at all at the moment, even though officially the BMC dont yet own it fully. He ask me politely to leave and come back in an hour as his insurance guys are currently onsite, and he isnt insured for climbers. Fair enough so i did....
Then i see him running round all his JCB digger guys to make sure they have their helmets on!
Thought id mention this, as it was a bit unclear if we were allowed here or not.
Oh, and as of this afternoon, probably a bit moist!
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the site manager is responsible for the safety on site strangely enough
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the site manager is responsible for the safety on site strangely enough
Yes, but until the h+s guys turned up, he was supriseingly lapse!
(Incase anyones thinking of going, it wont be dry for at least 2 or 3 days now)
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In case anyones thinking of going, it wont be dry for at least 2 or 3 days now
I assume you mean at least 2 or 3 days after it stops raining. the forecast is awful :thumbsdown:
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In case anyones thinking of going, it wont be dry for at least 2 or 3 days now
I assume you mean at least 2 or 3 days after it stops raining. the forecast is awful :thumbsdown:
Err yeah, when i woke up this morning, or should that be afternoon, it was fairly sunny. Looking out again its gone a tad cloudy!
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the site manager is responsible for the safety on site strangely enough
Yes, but until the h+s guys turned up, he was supriseingly lapse!
Funny that, welcome to the world of industry.
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you've been away from work too long adam. if you need to brush up on your interview technique's i believe somebody's fool is the man to speak to
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you've been away from work too long adam.
No arguments there Dense, and its only going to get worse!
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Off for a look in a minute to see if its dry. Should be. Anyone know thats been today? Ill report back this evening
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Come on then Longridge fans - how bad has it been over there of late? once wet (which I presume it is) how long does it take to dry out?
If you were a betting man and you were putting money it being dry on Saturday morning what odds would you give?
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its been wet over this way mate, but if it stays dry today and tom it will be fine, theres plenty to go at. you over seeing her folks?
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The old foreskin suggests it might actually be dry until the weekend, so theres hope yet. I am over with the monster, but she is not with the outlaws, she's got some stall to man at an event in Ashton. Last week was the same but I headed back to rubicon - 40 mins from there, but its saturday and the roads will be busier, and its later - last week was a sunday morning at 0900, this week its gonna be saturday at 1115 which pretty much means theres no point trying to get to the tor, but I reckon on getting to longridge in perhaps 30 minutes? so am quite keen - are you about?
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If it rains tomorrow, then it will be wet. Its stayed quite wet since last week. Never quite drying up fully. No probs though unless your working the traverse. Take more than one mat if you can, as if you haven't been in last year or so, all the stuff down right hand end is highballish now.
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30 mins from ashton to longridge? yeh right, nice one jerry
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Bright sun drying all the holds today. You could be in.....
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Thanks chaps, Dense - I think I might have been optimistic. If I was Jim then its probably achievable but I like the look of my driving license as it is - with no points on.
Adam - think I am going to get back to the Tor. I have projects with lots of ground work already established, plus I seem to be making progress, so the lure of possibly doing something (however remote) is greater than the lure of going somewhere different. And, its the Tor and I love it.
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Ive taken a strimmer to all the nettles tonight, so no more stinging your ankles.....
Oh and its the driest i've seen it in ages.
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Any news anyone?
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I would be pretty certain its fooked.
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:agree:
The weather has been poor Andi. Even bits of Brownstone will take a while to dry out now.
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Longridge was dry, if a little greasy, yesterday.
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What's the likelihood of dryness today? After rain yesterday, that is.
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Anyone know if Craig Y Longridge is dry at the moment? :goodidea:
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anyone been here recently?
wondering how dry its likely to be at the weekend, or indeed if any of the south lakes, north lancs stuff will be
cheers
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Went today and despite a high speed icy wind blowing straight onto the face it was slimy and wet in many places. Most of the finishing hods are wet, all of the traverses have damp areas.
I'd head somewhere else at present.
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If anybody goes today or tomorrow/over the weekend could they post a conditions report? Might be visiting this neck of the woods on Monday/Tuesday and keen to check it out again (haven't been here since early 90s!). I figured with all this sunshine the seepage might dry up.
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In a vaguely related theme (in the sense that Simon will have to drive past it to get to Longridge) Pex is in pretty poor nick, though a good weekend would improve things a little.
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Just as I was on the cusp of departing for an afternoon there too. Saved me a journey thanks Andy.
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Si, Brownstones has a lot of seepage and it's usually far better than Craig y Longridge. Having said that, it's been dry today so things may improve. But I wouldn't hold my breath too much.
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Just listen to the music of the traffic in the quarry,
Linger in the top end where the highball slabs are pretty
How can you lose? The grit is much drier there...
You can forget all your troubles; forget all your cares, and go
Brownstones -- things will be great when you're
Brownstones -- you'll find a place for sure
Brownstones -- everything's waiting for you
Brownstones .... Brownstones...
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r-man, is there a bad batch going round Sheff at the moment? ;)
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I think he's trying to say that conditions at Brownstones are more reliable.
But I may be wrong.
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Just listen to the music of the traffic in the quarry,
Linger in the top end where the highball slabs are pretty
How can you lose? The grit is much drier there...
You can forget all your troubles; forget all your cares, and go
Brownstones -- things will be great when you're
Brownstones -- you'll find a place for sure
Brownstones -- everything's waiting for you
Brownstones .... Brownstones...
Surely this should be playing when I go to the Brownstones wiki? Missed opportunity!
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r-man, is there a bad batch going round Sheff at the moment? ;)
Worse, it's beautiful outside, what are we all doing on the computer...?
Hey Mr Marley
Let me climb in the peak
This world go crazy
It's an emergency
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r-man, is there a bad batch going round Sheff at the moment? ;)
Worse, it's beautiful outside, what are we all doing on the computer...?
"Working" or "losing the plot" in your case by the looks of things.
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I'm just railing against the immorality of it all.
The "plot" is in the "garden."
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Was dry (and quite warm) yesterday. CJD did a new sds to Fertile Delta - V9/7cish.
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Was dry (and quite warm) yesterday. CJD did a new sds to Fertile Delta - V9/7cish.
where does that start? There used to be 2 sit starts to FD; one starting on the obvious pocket, and the other traversing into the pocket from the left, but then the ground was lowered and everything changed...
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I'll post a pic in a minute - basically down and left from the large pocket. 3 or 4 crimpy moves to get to the pocket. There is another easier looking sitter which could be done just to the left (i.e. a sds to In Excess). I suppose you could start on this and swerve rightwards into the start of FD. So what CJD did is slightly eliminate in nature, but a very obvious and worthwhile addition I'd say.
On a different note, some very strange grades (according to the topo on the South Lancs site) going on at this crag - for example, surely Fertile Delta (given V7) is the same grade (i.e. about V5/6) as its neighbour, Porridge Gun (given V3).
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(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/FD%20sds%20400.jpg)
CJD demonstrating his new sitter.
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One other thought - whilst the new lower landing is an improvement in some senses and does open up some potential for new low starts, I think it might cause problems in the future. At the moment it is pretty soft and forgiving when you plummet back to earth from the now distinctly highball problems, but after a couple of years surely the soil will become compacted leaving a bigger fall onto a harder surface. I reckon the careful replacement of about half a metre (or even a whole metre) of earth before the grass planting is done would lead to the best of both worlds. Key sds could be left clear, but the landing zone beneath the finishes could be built up.
Any thoughts from the locals?
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I reckon the careful replacement of about half a metre (or even a whole metre) of earth before the grass planting is done would lead to the best of both worlds. Key sds could be left clear, but the landing zone beneath the finishes could be built up.
I thought this was the plan, but i've not seen it since it was levelled, the ground used to rise up as you gained height - the ideal would definitely be to return it to that.
re FD and PG: I always thought FD was worth V7 for that big gaston off the glued edge. I don't remember PG being too hard - just steady away crimping. 6c and 6a UK tech.
The ground's certainly a lot lower now; the original sit down off the pocket looks like a reachy stand-up now.
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I reckon the careful replacement of about half a metre (or even a whole metre) of earth before the grass planting is done would lead to the best of both worlds. Key sds could be left clear, but the landing zone beneath the finishes could be built up.
I thought this was the plan, but i've not seen it since it was levelled, the ground used to rise up as you gained height - the ideal would definitely be to return it to that.
Something like this (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=58279)? :lol: ;)
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Wow! That looks amazing.
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2087/2260108963_a811be4a0c_o.jpg)
Oooo, that's better, my eyes have stopped bleeding now ;)
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2087/2260108963_a811be4a0c_o.jpg)
Oooo, that's better, my eyes have stopped bleeding now ;)
Yeah I couldn't look at that before. Now I can I've got a sudden urge to rush out and buy loads of La Sportiva products, starting with La Sportiva Venoms from a shop display window.
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Yup - that's one brand-savvy gent right there . . . :whistle:
Surprised he hasn't had it tattooed it on the left forarm . . . To be fair to Chris, as well as being one of Britains' and certainly Wales' biggest ticking boulderers - he also genuinely WANTS to wear La Sportiva more than any other product and held out for such a deal. At least he's not wearing Red Chilli or some other grotesque abomination 'cos that's where the geld is.
Salut Chris Pist! A fellow original Gout Clubber and man of his word.
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re FD and PG: I always thought FD was worth V7 for that big gaston off the glued edge. I don't remember PG being too hard - just steady away crimping. 6c and 6a UK tech.
Sounds familiar, but it's been years.
I will probably be heading there tomorrow if I get the chance so I'll have a look.
I always thought Fertile Delta a little easier than Big Marine (which I haven't finished... yet), but only cos I could do it :lol: If that makes sense :-\
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Good conditions today, only one or two small areas of seepage.
Porridge Gun felt like 6b/+ today for what it's worth.
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I had just changed my boots ya know, and they are the only mats I have. I did need three pads as the landing is obviously far from flat and freindly! Oh, and its not my chalk bag, I have'nt got one. :)
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Blow me!
I geddit now.
You changed the pink to blue (which is a traversty!) and I thought you had photoshopped the La Sportiva patches off of his trousers. Weird, there aren't any patches on his trousers... Did you move them too?
Bring back the pink!!
(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/FD%20sds%20400.jpg)
Everyone wears blue. You Bummers!
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That's not pink, it's flouro magenta. My eye's were bleeding so hard I couldn't see what colour I was changing it to.
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Ha!
I see it now, but back in the Wales he wears that shit 24/7 and I don't notice it anymore . . .
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(http://i27.tinypic.com/fye8nk.jpg)
Nice. 8)
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Worth a sticky yet :-[
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anyone been there today?
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No, but last time I went it was damp and it's rained since. So I'd bet conditions ain't gonna be great.
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How about now? Particularly interested in the traverses, need to build some endurance. What condition is the traverse from left of the wobble block to the high break after the cave, in?
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The way it has blasted a gale and rained like crazy over the last couple of days I'd be surprised if anything was in condition.
Which traverse do you mean? Mr. Skin?
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It's Mr Skin plus a bit.
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Into Bend of the Rainbow? Cool, never tried that.
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Anyone been recently? Any ideas what state it is in?
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Not bad today, a little damp in places, but the perishing wind was blowing right over the top. Cleaned and did another recently unearthed sitter just to the left of CJD's new problem, up the damp green crap you can see in the very left of the picture of CJD.
It cleaned up ok, and two of the better holds that were made of poorer, damp rock, snapped off as I was trying it, forcing a harder but better sequence up some big slopey pinches.
It starts on two small crimps just above CJD's left foot, (at the top of the shot hole scar), takes a very sloping sloper with a thump catch up and left, a diagonal RH crimp, big fat sidepull pinch LH and a nice move to gain and finish up the V3 thing above. I repeated CJD's problem too - this has harder moves low down, but it finishes up an easier problem, so overall it's about the same grade, or slightly harder, maybe. Worth doing. I started with both feet high, Cressbook style, to avoid the bottom shale/mud layer.
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I repeated CJD's problem too - this has harder moves low down, but it finishes up an easier problem, so overall it's about the same grade, or slightly harder, maybe.
By which I mean the new problem has harder moves low down, but it finishes up an easier problem, so overall the new problem is about the same grade, or slightly harder.
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Can you confirm grade, Ru?
Am I to assume your is the SDS to In Excess?
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Yes, the sitter to In Excess, I forgot the name of the stand up. Grade.. not sure. I've just had a couple of weeks off due to a finger tweak, so I'm not sure how I'm climbing. 7b+??
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so I'm not sure how I'm climbing. 7b+??
So that's hard 7c/soft 7c+ ?
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Pretty well all dry today, just a bit of seepage around the footholds on Bend.
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Good conditions yesterday, most things dry little bit of seepage, but on sections that aren't really used. The full traverse is doable, as a couple of people demonstrated.
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The full traverse is doable, as a couple of people demonstrated.
Who? and which way: L-R or R-L? I've put off trying the full traverse for years, and now it's more highball I've pretty well written it off completely.
Going to Longridge this afternoon for a sess'.
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If you see a lanky twat say hello. :wave:
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Who? and which way: L-R or R-L? I've put off trying the full traverse for years, and now it's more highball I've pretty well written it off completely.
L-R, Vickers who did it twice and Jee who did it for the first time, which was a good effort, shame I turned up too late to see it.
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Jee? I was told it was Adam Dewhurst, not Adam Jeewooth! Good effort by the lad. Anyone know if Adam Dewhurst's done it as well by any coincidence?
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Don't think Adam is climbing much nowadays....
On a side note, Longridge in pretty god nick this eve.
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Ah, the misinformation machine is on form. That's what happens when you hear things 3rd hand.
Adam, is the place dry? Likely to be something in condition if there's showers the next couple of days? Was thinking about going on Thursday.
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Tough one. Maybe if only light showers. Had a heavy down pour today for 5 mins but stopped. Ground not too muddy.
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Cheers. It's 20 minutes drive so I'll probably have a look anyway. Unless it's bombing it down.
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Pretty wet this evening after the heavy rain this morning. some things doable, but dripping off the top of most of it.
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Brilliant conditions this evening, no seepage, everything dry, holds reasonably cool and dry because of a breeze. Traverse done again.
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Brilliant conditions this evening, no seepage, everything dry, holds reasonably cool and dry because of a breeze. Traverse done again.
Let me guess..... Gaz?
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Let me guess..... Gaz?
No Vickers, sorry should have made it clear it wasn't somebody who hadn't done it before, I was just stating it so that people would know it was doable.
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Although not mentioned in the Climber article, Gaz has done the traverse. I think Vickers just finds the traverse easier than walking from one end of the crag to the other.
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Probably head down this eve. Ill no doubt be reporting back with perfect conditions.
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Perfect conditions last night, everything dry, in the shade and cool.
Although not mentioned in the Climber article, Gaz has done the traverse.
Gaz hasn't done the full traverse, I asked him this weekend.
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Perfect conditions last night, everything dry, in the shade and cool.
Although not mentioned in the Climber article, Gaz has done the traverse.
Gaz hasn't done the full traverse, I asked him this weekend.
As of this evening, he has. First time.
BTW, totally mint tonight. In fact a little cold!
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indeed, i've just noticed the same thing and came to post it.
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indeed, i've just noticed the same thing and came to post it.
He almost did it right to left as well.
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That would explain the txt he's just sent me.
Doesn't explain why I was not only convinced he did it 3yrs ago, but also convinced I'd watched him do it :shrug:
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Getting old, Serps :lol:
And, nice one Mr Parry. :thumbsup:
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Anyone know of a downloadable topo anywhere as I'm heading up tonight and the grey cells can't remember the problems.
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Topo here: http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/homeslb.htm
Nice one gaz on the traverse, how far did he get right to left?
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Cheers Squeek. Have Karma
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http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Topos (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Topos)
There's a spreadsheet at the bottom of the page that has most of the recent additions on.
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Topo here: http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/homeslb.htm
Nice one gaz on the traverse, how far did he get right to left?
To where you have an awkward drop down from high crimps going left to right. He hadn't worked it that way so good effort.
On a side note that top break before bend is totally clean and dry. Get to it people.....
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Is it thought to be harder or easier R-L than L-R? I did it L-R a few years back and my getting-fit-again project is R-L. I'm sure I saw Carson doing it L-R-L-R yonks ago, but it might just have been L-R-L.
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Everyone seems to do it L-R, but I've heard it said that it's easier R-L because you haven't got to do Bend when you're pumped.
I'd be tempted to do it R-L because I'm a coward and I'd rather the ground was closer when I'm pumped witless.
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Isn't this 8c+? Has Ru climbed 8c+ and kept it from his nearest and dearest.
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No, and no. Panic not.
It's only 8c+ if you avoid the top break.
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ah.
I knew 8c+ came into it somewhere. Jolly good. Carry on everybody
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Everyone seems to do it L-R, but I've heard it said that it's easier R-L because you haven't got to do Bend when you're pumped.
I'd be tempted to do it R-L because I'm a coward and I'd rather the ground was closer when I'm pumped witless.
A few of us were talking about this the other day and Vickers said that he thought R-L was harder (although i don't think he finds anything about that traverse hard).
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I did it L-R a few years back
You kept that quiet ;)
So, how many ascents has it had?
Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry
Any more?
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Kenyon and Leach?
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...and Mitchell?
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So,
Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry
Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?
? = Maybe's
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When did Sean do it?
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About a year ago now, I think...
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When did Sean do it?
Though technically he started in the wrong place. To be fair, if you can start where he did and do it your going to be able to do the easy bit he missed out.
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Hi guys, Hopefully will be popping down to craig y longridge again tomorow, i was just wondering regarding the vickers v9 eliminate:
I know you go from a sloping ledge, to the side pull, then into the pinchy/crimp thing, but where abouts do you go after that? Is it straight up to the ledge with like a weird sloping jug in it, then the top crimp...?
Thanks guys!
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If you look on the Craig Y Longride wiki, the way i do it in the video is wrong. You basically don't use the good ledge after the hard move. Doesn't make that much difference, but does add a bit of a move.
ps i assume your not Adam Dewhurst?
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Erm no im not! I'm Adam Dunderdale.
Ah ok then, i just need to stick that move off the side pull ;D
I assume its also no large holds for feet?
Thanks.
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Erm no im not! I'm Adam Dunderdale.
Ahh your Andrews E's mate....you were there when Gaz did traverse....
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Yeah thats me, i was playing with that uppercut to crimp thing, managed to do it in the end, but still had to top out. But then my arms just gave out and i couldnt even pull off the first move.
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Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?
? = Maybe's
Tony? :-\
The number of Adams on this site is getting confusing! :)
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Everyone seems to do it L-R, but I've heard it said that it's easier R-L because you haven't got to do Bend when you're pumped.
I'd be tempted to do it R-L because I'm a coward and I'd rather the ground was closer when I'm pumped witless.
A few of us were talking about this the other day and Vickers said that he thought R-L was harder (although i don't think he finds anything about that traverse hard).
When you consider it's a 300ft traverse where the hardest moves are probably only 6a, there's unlikely to be much difference in the difficulty whichever way you go I suppose.
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where the hardest moves are probably only 6a
:( I feel even weaker than normal now!
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the hardest moves are probably only 6a,
Stop it, stop it now...
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Why haven't you all joined the Wiki anyway?
I want to start an eliminates page, but I'm not sure of the best format for it.
Adam, you should take your shiny new camera and get me some topo pics.
And if anybody sees Aaron bully him for his panorama pics of the crag that he's promised me.
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6a Ru? The moves on Bend alone must be 6b?
I am on the pics Arran, ill get them next time i go.
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So,
Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry
Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?
? = Maybe's
Tony Mitchell, the guy who did True North at Kilnsey
I thought Dave Kenyon did the first ascent (by a few days), why is he a maybe?
I thought Pasquill had done it too.
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So,
Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry
Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?
? = Maybe's
Tony Mitchell, the guy who did True North at Kilnsey
I thought Dave Kenyon did the first ascent (by a few days), why is he a maybe?
I thought Pasquill had done it too.
Ahh yeah, Tony, not Paul. And good call and Ryan, forgot him!
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How did Pasqwad manage that? Where did he have his fag break?
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Hello everyone,
Just wondering does anyone know if the conditions are ok for craig y longridge, this evening?
Thanks.
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Hello everyone,
Just wondering does anyone know if the conditions are ok for craig y longridge, this evening?
Thanks.
It will be fine.....
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Unfortunately didn't head down, all my friends pulled out of going! Hopefully head down this weekend sometime (weather dependant) Can anyone recommend a few good v7's at CYL?
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Unfortunately didn't head down, all my friends pulled out of going! Hopefully head down this weekend sometime (weather dependant) Can anyone recommend a few good v7's at CYL?
Big Marine used to be the classic V7. Though in the recent stone circles article, it seems they thought V8 was more appropriate. With the first move being harder now, i wouldn't argue.
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Ah fair enough, i guess it might not be fair with me, since i can reach the first hold off the floor!...
The top move is what has me stumped, hopefully do it next time though. :D
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Ah fair enough, i guess it might not be fair with me, since i can reach the first hold off the floor!...
The top move is what has me stumped, hopefully do it next time though. :D
If you see me down there, give me a shout and i can show you last move. And lend a few more pads!
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Ah ok then, Thanks!
Yeah it is quite worrying if you miss the crash pad, as i did the other day! ha ha.
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Was good conditions this morning.
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Ah thinking of heading there tomorrow, have you had much rain this afternoon around there?
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Ah thinking of heading there tomorrow, have you had much rain this afternoon around there?
None.
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Fine this evening. Good breeze dried any moisture out from weekend.
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Ah fair enough, might pop down tomorrow night.
I went down yesterday, but just had one of them days where i was completely drained from warming up! :-\
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Nice conditions tonight, crispy with a cool breeze blowing later on. Bend sloper felt in good nick. Somebody left their chalkbag at the left hand of the crag - wildcountry light green with a blue bit of rope to tie round the waist. It is hanging up on a jug in the warm up area.
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Might pop down tomorrow afternoon, if anyone fancies a boulder?
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Anyone know if its dry at the moment?
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how about now? may go down tonight so will report back if i do.
good nic at the kebs lastnight, friction was top at about 9 o'clock.
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So,
Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry
Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?
? = Maybe's
Tony Mitchell, the guy who did True North at Kilnsey
I thought Dave Kenyon did the first ascent (by a few days), why is he a maybe?
I thought Pasquill had done it too.
Ahh yeah, Tony, not Paul. And good call and Ryan, forgot him!
Serpico told me Steve Dunning and some random have also done it....
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The random was a Dr Craig something. I vaguely remember him and I think Ru knows him.
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The random was a Dr Craig something. I vaguely remember him and I think Ru knows him.
Craig Parnaby? Climbed with him a bit in the mid 90's when he was at medical school, bold trad climber and very tenacious sport climber with lots of stamina so sounds about right. Looked about 14.
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That's right, the surname came to me this morning. Short, very strong, had a penchant for loud shirts.
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Craig was a good mate of mine at Uni, he was in my year. Not seen him since 2002. I never knew he's been to Longridge, although I have no doubt he'd have been capable whilst on his tomato diet. Nice guy too, wonder what happened to him..... :-\
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That's right, the surname came to me this morning. Short, very strong, had a penchant for loud shirts.
Ahh you should have said, he is a trad beast! Did the bells the bells very easily from what i heard
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I'm sure Craig pathed Conehead back in the mid-90's, made it look very easy.
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Yeah, he modestly told me he'd on sighted the Bells, thought it easy. He did the cad without the bolt (but didn't spit on it as has been reported elsewhere). Pretty much on sighted Requiem at Dumby, slapped the top and came off 'cos it was damp.
One weekend in the Lakes he was out at a crag when a rock fell off the top of the crag and smacked him on the head. With concussion he drave miles and miles back to his parent's in Cockermouth. Lucky, as he didn't have a helmet.
Andy- he did quite a bit of sport. He could on sight quite hard stuff because he could hang on forever, go up and down and work out moves. Stamina was amazing.
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Anybody heading down tonight? ;D
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Anyone know what its looking like at the moment - has it recovered from the rain at the end of last week / Sunday?
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Anyone know what its looking like at the moment - has it recovered from the rain at the end of last week / Sunday?
Been sunny and breezy last few days so should be fine tonight.
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So,
Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry
Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?
? = Maybe's
Tony Mitchell, the guy who did True North at Kilnsey
I thought Dave Kenyon did the first ascent (by a few days), why is he a maybe?
I thought Pasquill had done it too.
Ahh yeah, Tony, not Paul. And good call and Ryan, forgot him!
Serpico told me Steve Dunning and some random have also done it....
Think you can add Steve Anson to that list as well.
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So,
Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry
Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?
? = Maybe's
Tony Mitchell, the guy who did True North at Kilnsey
I thought Dave Kenyon did the first ascent (by a few days), why is he a maybe?
I thought Pasquill had done it too.
Ahh yeah, Tony, not Paul. And good call and Ryan, forgot him!
Serpico told me Steve Dunning and some random have also done it....
Think you can add Steve Anson to that list as well.
Nice one Neil!
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Anyone know how things have been? Thinking about an evening visit today, but drizzle at the moment. If it dries up will it be OK, or has there been seepage?
Cheers.
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Well, it was a bit still so very midgey and a bit greasy, some seepage in places. Made everything good sport. Had a fair session though.
Important:
Serpico etc- The funny jug thing at the end of Kiss the Razor's Edge (just below the slopers, down amd right of Seven-A start) was loose today. I remember it beinf solid but today it certainly shifted a fair bit, and I wouldn't be surprised if it comes off.
Can one of you guys check it and see if this is a new thing and whether it may need attention. Cheers.
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So,
Neil Carson
Ian Vickers
Adam Jeeworth
Sean Gelder
Ru Davis
Gaz Parry
Paul Mitchell ?
Dave Kenyon ?
Mark Leach ?
? = Maybe's
Tony Mitchell, the guy who did True North at Kilnsey
I thought Dave Kenyon did the first ascent (by a few days), why is he a maybe?
I thought Pasquill had done it too.
Ahh yeah, Tony, not Paul. And good call and Ryan, forgot him!
Serpico told me Steve Dunning and some random have also done it....
Think you can add Steve Anson to that list as well.
Nice one Neil!
What's the story with big mig, surley he's done it??
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Big Mick? He's been to the corner (New Stone Age) a couple of times but not been able to finish it. Also, need to scratch Dunning off the list, I saw him at the crag today and he's pretty sure he finished at New Stone Age as well.
Conditions were good today.
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Serpico, did you look at the knob thing on Kiss the Razor's Edge? Any opinions?
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I did, that knob could easily come off in your hand...
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Only if you treat it too roughly.... :lol:
The question is what to do about it.
I suspect it need to come off and be glued back. Whether that happens naturally (but you may lose the hold if someone lobs it) or with assistance will need careful debate by the Longridge Posse.
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Si O'Conor has done the traverse, he once told me...
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Minimal seepage today, pretty good conditions if a little hot.
Them builders have built a beautiful fence. I have a slight concern, however, that anyone making a hash of Big Marine last move would get a fencepost enema. :-\
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Oh, and the loose knob on Kiss... is still loose but hasn't fallen off yet.
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Was interested if anyone has been the last couple of days.. what conditions are.
I was at longridge when they started building the fence and very nearly went over to ask them where they were going to site the fence, but didnt for feeling a bit stupid that surely they wouldnt put it in a dangerous position and must know the score. Does this mean that anyone in the high break on the traverse is not only at risk of ankle snapping but of impailment? :wall:
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Paul- the traverse should be OK. The fence is a little way back (I assume it's at the measured bouldary of BMC land) so problems where you fall down shouldn't be an issue. The only potential problem is with routes like Big Marine where you (I mean weak people like me) pop to the finishing hold. If you half catch it then drop it on the swing the fence may come into play (although you'd be unlucky).
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Not bad tonight.
Wet streaks in places, top of Big Marine for example. A little greasy here and there. But generally not at all bad.
Shame it's supposed to rain all weekend.
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Drying but still moist tonight. Tarot plane and stuff there mostly okay.
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Drying but still moist tonight. Tarot plane and stuff there mostly okay.
Was that you in the green hoody yesterday evening?
I was one of the 2 blokes struggling on Tarot plane. I was baffled. The holds felt good, quite large, loads of footholds but after making a good 6ft of horizontal progress I was boxed! Quite fancy taking a topo next time.
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Drying but still moist tonight. Tarot plane and stuff there mostly okay.
Was that you in the green hoody yesterday evening?
I was one of the 2 blokes struggling on Tarot plane. I was baffled. The holds felt good, quite large, loads of footholds but after making a good 6ft of horizontal progress I was boxed! Quite fancy taking a topo next time.
It was indeed, good to meet you!
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As i said over on malham conditions thread, i will try and post reports to this website now http://yorkshireconditions.blogspot.com/ (http://yorkshireconditions.blogspot.com/). So keep an eye out if your going to longridge.
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Wasn't terrible this evening. And if it doesn't rain tomorrow, should be okay again. Top break on traverse might need a little longer, was seeping badly.
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How was Big Marine looking?
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How was Big Marine looking?
I think you would be struggling to stick the top. Bit if sun in the morning tomorrow might fix. (Though that would need a bit if sun)
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Shame the morning is supposed to be gopping. Ain't looking good for CyL conditions for tomorrow evening. But we can live in hope.
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If its dry in the morning ill probably pop over in the afternoon for a look.....
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Can you stick an update up if you do? Although I strongly suspect you won't need to :lol:
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Can you stick an update up if you do? Although I strongly suspect you won't need to :lol:
Supposed to only be heavy rain till about 9am. Then sunny.... Might dry it out by the evening. You guys heading over?
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Heading over Preston way but by the sounds of things we'll be indoors...
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Sunny and windy now, but rained a bit last night i think.... Let me know if your going over, might pop down.
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If it stays dry to 5 we may well be there about 5:30 ish.
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After good weather last few days Longridge should be back in nick. I am probably popping down in a bit.
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Yesterday afternoon... dry as a bone, bit dusty at top end. :spank:
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anyone been recently?
what are the essential ticks for a first visit?
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What grade are you looking at Salty? (Knock 1-2 grades off you norm). You seen s guide? (http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/craigylongridge.pdf)
Give us a shout when you are going, I'll try to meet up so you can burn me off.
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what are the essential ticks for a first visit?
Hi, Bend of the Rainbow Font 7a/V6 is an excellent traverse. You have to start balanced on an old pallett lent up against the crag as the ground has dropped a bit but it really is the crag classic. Apart from that the various sections of the traverse are great for a bit of a workout, the middle section in particular is armblasting. Other than that, bag a local for info...I am only an occasional visitor!! Enjoy.
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with my current form i think i shall be feeling the burn!
was gonna try and head there tomorrow, (avoiding the experrimental night boulder session! and remaining in the bird's good books.)
yeah bend is on the list. possibly big marine, looks good.
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what are the essential ticks for a first visit?
Hi, Bend of the Rainbow Font 7a/V6 is an excellent traverse. You have to start balanced on an old pallett lent up against the crag as the ground has dropped a bit
You will have to nick one from the chalets as they are all gone from the crag.....
Other than that, Big Marine is the crag classic. Settled at V8/7b for the current start.
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You should also do:
Tarot Plane
Seven A
Push to Prolapse
Fertile Delta
The Gauntlet
and the warm down on Ascent of Man.
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good knowledge.
i shall attempt to get despatched!
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Without being confrontational, has Big Marine really gained a grade? A bit of a reach/jump start, I admit, but 7b?
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Without being confrontational, has Big Marine really gained a grade? A bit of a reach/jump start, I admit, but 7b?
New people visiting the crag seem to think so.... It has changed a bit since it was first graded. The hold you grab after the two crimps at start has got worse. And yes, i think the jump adds a little. I think it would be 7b elsewhere.
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I haven't repeated it since the ground altered, but there are 3 factors that have contributed to it's upgrade:
1. You used to start with hands crossed on the starting holds so that you could put the heel sideways on the lower better edge. You can't jump into this position.
2. The lower edge has crumbled slightly where the heel went.
3. The extra height definitely makes you pull a bit harder. I wouldn't like to take the feet first, face down swing-plummet that I did previously from the final jug now.
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3. The extra height definitely makes you pull a bit harder. I wouldn't like to take the feet first, face down swing-plummet that I did previously from the final jug now.
not selling it!
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I wouldn't like to take the feet first, face down swing-plummet that I did previously from the final jug now.
I agree with you there.
Being of average height :lol: I can reach the holds from a mat, so getting on makes little difference. The moves from the crimps didn't feel that different to me, although I've still not nailed the jug.
If 7b is the opinion, I'll be glad to take 7b. Still easier than Hank's...........
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Beefus, it's got cool moves, great problem. Do it (with a couple of mats and a spotter).
I could maybe get there tomorrow for an hour if I finish early. When will you be there?
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3. The extra height definitely makes you pull a bit harder. I wouldn't like to take the feet first, face down swing-plummet that I did previously from the final jug now.
not selling it!
It's a matter of holding your nerve: you hit the top and if your feet come off you start to swing into the horizontal, it's all OK as long as you maintain contact with the final flat, sandy hold. When I came off I reckon I came to rest about 15'+ from the base of the crag.
I think it'd be OK now as long as the bathroom window's open in the chalet behind you.
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I wouldn't like to take the feet first, face down swing-plummet that I did previously from the final jug now.
although I've still not nailed the jug.
The jug as in the one after the crimps? So still the crux to come then ;)
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No, the finishing "jug"/flatty. Don't make me hurt you :lol:
The number of times I fell off that last move, I should really have done it by now. I feel embarrassed. Damn you, Lincoln, damn you...............
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No, the finishing "jug"/flatty. Don't make me hurt you :lol:
The number of times I fell off that last move, I should really have done it by now. I feel embarrassed. Damn you, Lincoln, damn you...............
:oops: you can :spank: me for that....
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Nah, the fact you used the wrong holds in your CyL vid is enough for me. buuuhahAHAHAHAHAH
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after lunch i reckon i'll pm ya
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Pretty good this evening! Added a couple of starts to a few of the problems which became redundent when the ground got lowered. One is still a project. And it has Nik's name all over it. Small holds and face climbing. I reckon its going to be hardish. At least 7b+. The other one which i can't remember is V5 if your 5'10 or harder if your shorter. Both these are at far end and pretty obvious at the moment. The harder one i think is problem 71. Serpico will know better....?
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Nope, no sit starts to be had at this crag. Move along, nothing to see here... :whistle:
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What's that about sit start projects?
I'm not buying the smokescreen Serpico... :)
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What's that about sit start projects?
I'm not buying the smokescreen Serpico... :)
Me and Ryan did this today, absolutely mint conditions. So Orifice Of Faeces now re-done with current ground level at 7a+, or 7b if your smaller than 5'10. (Ish) Really good, even the bolton Albratross thought so.
Repeated Delta Force also, which is probably very soft at 7c.
There is a really good bouldering circuiit developing now in the mid 7's.
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A note about Longridge worth mentioning. I was discussing this with someone the other day and we both agreed that since the wall has been taken down the crag is drier a day earlier after rain than it used to be.
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Does anyone know what it would be like for tomorrow?
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Does anyone know what it would be like for tomorrow?
Have you seen the weather forcast for tomorrow?!
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How about the conditions for today? If anyones knows?
I know it's going to be grim tomorrow...
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Cold and sunny here, but it rained yesterday so I think you'd be lucky to have a dry crag, it was seeping last week.
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will it be dry there this weekend?
Cheers
tim
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Piss wet at the moment.
If it stays dry from now you may get some stuff done on Saturday.
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will it be dry there this weekend?
Cheers
tim
You have two hopes, and ones Bob! ;)
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You have two hopes, and ones Bob! ;)
Who's the other one, A?
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You have two hopes, and ones Bob! ;)
Who's the other one, A?
No. (Hope)
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Is it dry up there?
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I don't know but I suspect not.
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I don't think you'll get much done today.
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Thinking more sat through to tuesday (forward planning). Guessing it seeps a bit?
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Seepage is better now the wall is gone, so 2-3 days may do you. As long as it doesn't rain again.
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Cheers
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longridge dry at moment?
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longridge dry at moment?
It will probably be ok today. Better tomorrow.
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awesome! Think i'll give it a visit on xmas day then. Thanks mate
Cheers
Tim
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Does anyone know if it was in decent nick today? Hopefully going for a first ever visit tomorrow morning! Preparing to get the full on shutdown, haven't got word or excel installed, so had to crudely write down a few problems on a bit of paper and hope the lines are obvious at the crag when I get there. If anyone with some knowledge is intending to go there let me know! Cheers.
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Would join you but i am off to Font ;D
Should be fine by time you get there tomorrow. Had a few days drying now.
Have fun.
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Can anyone confirm conditions? It's traditional to get totally boxed on Boxing day - and Longridge never fails to deliver.
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haven't got word or excel installed...
Added a pdf version just for you :)
http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/wG9a9ZnP%2BD83QLS0YJq0Vw%3D%3D27991 (http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/wG9a9ZnP%2BD83QLS0YJq0Vw%3D%3D27991)
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Thanks very much!
Was a bit confused with the Delta Force me and Matt tried, we worked out a sequence and linked it into the last move of Fertile Delta before greasing off and thought it might be a bit soft unless we started too far left?
We were pulling on left hand sidepull, right hand on edge (That CD has his left hand on in photo). Getting matched on the next edge that he is eyeing up in said photo, then right hand gastoning the left side of pinch, left hand to smaller crimp above then right hand into pocket as a mono to leave room for a left hand 2 fingers, right hand out to crimp and then get all of left hand in the pocket, then finish as for the standup.
Are you meant to start left hand where Chris's hand is and right hand wide on something poor, before bumping right hand up again to where it is in the photo and then going left hand to edge, then again to the pinch?
Hope this makes sense! Very nice moves the way we were trying, it must be said :-\
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Pretty good conditions today, only a few areas of seepage in the cracks. Most things will be do-able.
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Pretty mint today :thumbsup:
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Was planning on hitting Longridge today, but it's drizzling in Bolton. Any idea if it might still be dry up there?
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Was planning on hitting Longridge today, but it's drizzling in Bolton. Any idea if it might still be dry up there?
Drizzle here as well. Bits might be dry but it will be pretty grim! GEt to BoulderUK or West View.
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Doh. Cheers for the heads up, Adam. Boulder UK it is.
Shame, as I'd just watched your video and was psyched for Colon Power. Looks great.
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went there this morning on the way home. the drizzle wasn't an issue, but the cloying mist/cloud/fog has soaked the crag. On the up side, it should dry quite quick once the skies clear.
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hows longridge? dry for tomorrow?
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Dropped in this morning, generally better but still damp and greasy.
It's likely to be misty early hours, in which case I think it'll be pretty poor conditions. If it happens to be a clear night and morning with a breeze you may just be lucky.
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Not bad today. Slight seepage in the usual spots, but generally dry. Tomorrow should be good conditions.
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Has anyone been over the weekend? Or locals have an idea what state it will be in? Cheers
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Went on Saturday, got rained on- it got quite wet quite quickly. And it's rained yesterday too.
If it stays dry tomorrow it may be OK-ish.
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Went today about 2pm and there wasn't an inch of dry rock to be had. The roads were dry but the crag was soaked >:(
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I can report that at 17:00 today it's still all wet, with loads of seepage. Wish I'd seen your post Serps. :lol:
Going to take a good couple of drying days for anything to be in conditions.
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Anybody been today?
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I drove through Longridge but didn't stop there. It was damp on the ground so I wouldn't be too hopeful until another day of dry weather. May be OK later tomorrow in places, depends on the stupid morning fog we get.
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Prety crap today. Loads of seepage, and everything was grease central.
Maybe another couple of dry days will see it right.
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Hey Guys n Gals, can i make a suggestion that if anybody fancies it, take some grass seeds wit you if you go to longridge n spread them around abit. I think it ud do the worl dof good, n help it recover, it looks like its nearly there but i think it'll suffer when it gets hammered this yr.
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1. It rained last night, so I'd bet it's still gopping.
2. Paul, that's a great idea.
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grass seeds
Or grass seeds!? ;)
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Damn you've seen my ploy. BMC news flash... Strange breed of wild bush found at longridge!
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Hi guys, i went down on saturday and most stuff was dry slightly damp in some areas (vickers eliminate) but besides that most of the place was good to climb on.
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Will probably be mostly wet after all the rain last night and heavy wind blowing in onto crag.
Sunny now though so with the wind might dry for tomorrow eve.
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anyone been today or yesterday? Is it seeping? would it be dry tomorrow?
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Not been, but it has been a bit showery today so maybe not.
If it's wet you could always pop to Brownstones and do Pigswill properly :P
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?
Not been, but it has been a bit showery today so maybe not.
If it's wet you could always pop to Brownstones and do Pigswill properly :P
Had a course in manchester on wednesday popped in on the way back and did it from sitting. Very nice. Is the big ledge in for your left foot?
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Is the big ledge in for your left foot?
No.
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Is the big ledge in for your left foot?
No.
i'll have to have a look at your toppo then and sort it all out. I was checking out conditions for a mate who's intenet is down. I'm off taking kids of D of e training tomorrow. Harsh no climbing for me! but i managed bad moon rising today up at thorn. Fucking amazing. Took me four sessions though! you get out?
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Well the crag was bone dry today pretty much everywhere, and not that busy :-\
I'm thinking of heading down tomorrow as well if it doesnt rain :thumbsup:
Oh if anyone knows the acutally holds for delta force that would be a big help, i can get up to the hold the guys looking at in the photo, then used 2 different ways to go to the pocket, but not sure which is right!? :-\
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Finally got back to Longridge the other week. What a nice bit of rock. (Almost as good as Brownstones.) Been years since I last went, and it's great to see flat grass landings everywhere. Brilliant work BMC!
Just been reading through this thread, thought I'd add some queries and opinions...
Big Marine is never 7b! Fantastic though.
What's the consensus on In Excess SDS? 7b+ felt reasonable to me, maybe soft 7c. I imagine the lh sloper is quite conditions dependant. (I have to admit I greased off the finishing V3 and decided that was good enough for the tourist tick :-[ )
Is this right: on Delta Force, you get to the large pocket, shuffle right to get lh in pocket, do a long move to a jug, then shuffle right and do a gaston move to a jug? Seems like a wandering route up the wall, so wasn't sure...
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I gave In Excess SS 7b+ when I did it (going left hand pinchy sloper, rt hand crimp, lft hand fat pinch, rt hand jug).
Delta Force goes as you describe, although I can't remember whether you take the gaston with your right as a layaway on Fertile Delta. I think CJD did the start of DF some hard and slightly blinkered way, so it's actually not that hard.
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I crossed though from a crimp so i had my left hand in pocket on delta force. Hard V7 seems about right.
Interesting you think 7b for big marine. Did you do the jump start, or could you reach?
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I gave In Excess SS 7b+ when I did it (going left hand pinchy sloper, rt hand crimp, lft hand fat pinch, rt hand jug).
Delta Force goes as you describe, although I can't remember whether you take the gaston with your right as a layaway on Fertile Delta. I think CJD did the start of DF some hard and slightly blinkered way, so it's actually not that hard.
Yeah, I used the same sequence on In Excess SS. I had your description printed out to avoid confusion. The move off the pinchy sloper was quite frustrating - I bet with cold temps this would feel a lot more secure. The wide pinch higher up is a lovely hold.
On Fertile Delta it's far easier to layaway and finish leftwards than to gaston, so I was wondering if you had to do it the hard way for Delta Force?
I crossed though from a crimp so i had my left hand in pocket on delta force. Hard V7 seems about right.
Interesting you think 7b for big marine. Did you do the jump start, or could you reach?
Hard V7 for Delta Force? So you don't think the sitter adds much to Fertile Delta? Or do you think Fertile Delta is easier than V7?
On Big Marine, I had to jump. It's a pretty big hold to jump for though - I can't imagine that adding a grade. Compare this problem to limestone stuff at a similiar angle and there's no chance it's 7b. Rattle and Hump, Kudos, both harder surely.
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@ R-Man.
It feels easier than Big Marine. For me anyway.
Did you try anything else. Colon Power, Pot Of Gold, etc etc?
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Nope, didn't try anything else. Colon Power looks great though, keen to try it next time.
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I'm probably going this afternoon (late afternoon) on the way home from Blackpool, if anyone's about.
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I'm probably going this afternoon (late afternoon) on the way home from Blackpool, if anyone's about.
Clouds looking a bit ominous and could well rain. But its on your way home so worth a look. Quite windy so could be good if rain holds off.
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I've got a course in bolton (!) on thursday so will be heading that way on thursday late on...
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did you get to longridge ru? anyone out tomorra?
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I may be there in the evening, although if I finish work at a decent time I've got unfinished business elsewhere.
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I got there tues evening. Good nick, not perfect, but good. Totally dry. Will try and get there tomorrow night if poss, but depends somewhat on when I get my brief for Friday. What time you heading there Axel?
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i shall be leaving bolton at 4 so hope to be there about 4.30... syked without a p.
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Didn't make it - sods law I got my brief at 5.30.
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wasn't bad nick tonight. question does in excess sit start just left of delta force on the crimps low down? (I just rumbled up the edges and it felt nowhere near near 7b but i didn't use any pinches) and did fertile delta starting from the same point again didn't feel 7c ( jump move became a bit more problematic) if only it was near chorlton.
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The sitter to Fertile Delta doesn't really add much gradewise.
In Excess sitter starts just left on two edges, then moves left a bit up some pinches. There are some other holds in between the two, which is what I'm guessing you climbed up.
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wasn't bad nick tonight. question does in excess sit start just left of delta force on the crimps low down?
Two crimps either side of a shothole scar.
http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/In+Excess+Sitter+V8%2F9 (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/In+Excess+Sitter+V8%2F9)
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Is it dry? I might finish work early enough to sneak a cheeky session in.
Also by popular demand I've added a traverse links page to the wiki for those of a crab-like nature.
http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Traverses+and+Links (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Traverses+and+Links)
I look forward to receiving feedback on the grades, however if you could refrain from writing it on bricks that would be appreciated.
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Been raining this afternoon and yesterday too, but after such a long dry spell it should be OK if the wetness desists. Enjoy.
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Just got back, crag was staying dry but was a tad humid.
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On a repeat front, i did In Excess sitter today. I agree with R-Man its possibly soft 7c, or quite condition dependent 7b+. Great moves though.
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Pretty good right now. Friday 2.30. High break a bit wet and in excess sit/delta force
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Any idea on what it's going to be like for tomorrow? It was raining here in Blackpool this morning, just wondering if it travelled further East.
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Did anybody go yesterday and can report back today?? :)
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Does anybody know what it would be like for tomorrow?
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Has it dried out completely yet? Thinking of going up either Tues/Wed evening.
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Mint Condition mate.
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The only complaint is it may be too hot, but evening time you should be OK.
I may go tomorrow evening after work- if you see a lanky dude with taped finger, give him some abuse.
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It's looking like Wednesday, so if you see a weak middle age punter, feel free to return the abuse ;D
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a weak middle age punter
That would equally describe me :lol:
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It's looking like Wednesday, so if you see a weak middle age punter, feel free to return the abuse ;D
Not alot changed then andy.. apart from the 'middle' bit ;)
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Well I couldn't be a strong punter or a weak Wad whatever my age... ???
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All obviously very dry tonight. Greasy as hell though!
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It got quite a bit better after you'd gone, A (though I'm not blamong you).
If it stays 28 degrees in the day, 8 is when it started getting less sweaty.
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Pretty good nick last night, a cooling breeze running down the crag and not too much grease. Just heaps of weakness evident :'(
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Mint today.
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Load of new links done today which got added to the traverses/links section of wiki. Good for training and maybe some motivation to get down...
http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/News+and+Conditions (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/News+and+Conditions)
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Full Circle - V9ish (7c+) - This links Gaz's traverse into the end of Bend Of The Rainbow, then reverses Bend to the starting jug of Gaz's traverse.
Bend Of The Rainbow Free - V8+ish (Fr7c ish) - Pot Of Gold Start into BOTR
does "ish" mean add a grade? :lol:
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Full Circle - V9ish (7c+) - This links Gaz's traverse into the end of Bend Of The Rainbow, then reverses Bend to the starting jug of Gaz's traverse.
Bend Of The Rainbow Free - V8+ish (Fr7c ish) - Pot Of Gold Start into BOTR
does "ish" mean add a grade? :lol:
Means i can't grade flour!
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Slimey, midgey and generally cack tonight! Or was that just me?
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No it was me as well, and you forgot to mention hot, still and humid.
Lovatt and Probes turned up as I was leaving, it'd be interesting to know if conditions improved any.
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Lovatt and Probes turned up as I was leaving, it'd be interesting to know if conditions improved any.
I thought i saw Lovatt cruise past me on the way back.
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No it was me as well, and you forgot to mention hot, still and humid.
Lovatt and Probes turned up as I was leaving, it'd be interesting to know if conditions improved any.
Mick made a sterling effort to get past the wobble block on the traverse, i only just made the wobble block, felt sick and dizzy so made the sensible decision.. run away.
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Seeping yet?
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It's rained a fair bit for 4 days, so I would expect some. Not having been I can't be definitive, but I'll drop in if I'm passing.
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Incredibly good conditions last night, and suprisingly dry after all the rain apart from small section of the top break.
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Went down on Thursday, most of the routes were dry, except a few areas of seepage as usual. If it doesnt rain again it could be good for next week.
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Strong Sam of Kaizen fame did a new problem recently. Direct on The Priory, which will probably end up at V11/12. Effort.
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Not bad this morning, some of the usual seeps like at Bend.
Then the heavens opened at 11:30. :thumbsdown:
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Really mint today. Good wind.
BOTR wet but not on the actual holds.
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Really mint today. Good wind.
BOTR wet but not on the actual holds.
Did you do or try S.S. today Adz??
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Really mint today. Good wind.
BOTR wet but not on the actual holds.
Did you do or try S.S. today Adz??
I went down for a video/photo shoot for climber website, just did the classics. Still a bit warm for SS.
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living the dream ;)
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I went down for a video/photo shoot for climber website, just did the classics. Still a bit warm for SS.
Thought you'd get in on that one :lol:
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living the dream ;)
:dance1:
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:dance1:
[/quote]
if thtas what you dressed as i cant wait to see the pics, are those sweat patchs???
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Anyone got any updates on the conditions? Anyone been recently?
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Anyone got any updates on the conditions? Anyone been recently?
You should be ok for today
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Anyone been down in the past couple of days? Hoping for an evening session today. I'm guessing it probably in pretty good nick.
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You should be OK. Not been for a bit, but considering recent weather you should get some stuff done.
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Anyone been recently? I'm in Preston for the weekend and hoping for a quick blast on Sunday.
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Great conditions earlier this week but there has been some heavy rain since then. Should be ok if it stays dry and breezy for the rest of today and tomorrow. I'm hoping to get a session there on Sun as well.
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Cheers, forecast looks half decent, maybe see you there.
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Longridge almost completely bone today with the only seepage being the thin break under Bend.
Also congrats to Probes who I hear has just done the full traverse :thumbsup:
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Good effort Paul, glad you got it done.
It seems it's gonna sheet down from now on.
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Nice one Probes :thumbsup:
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:beer2: Cheers everyone. That was a biggy for me, so am pretty chuffed, a bit of a life long ambition, still not really sunk in. Hopefully once the hangover goes it might.
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Went today. If your just after a bit of fitness traversing fine. Other than that stay away for a few days. Pretty mind at mo!
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Pretty dry today.
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Has someone pinched Jordans ladder? The old big one that has been around for a while? The small hand made one is still there but the other seems to have disapeared?
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Pretty much totally dry today, just felt very greasy this morning. May be better when cooler.
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May be better when cooler.
Definitely cooler today, crag was ~80% dry with only minor seepage mostly at the very base of the crag and occasional spots in the high break. There's a lot of melt water coming off the top but mostly this is just an inconvenience (wet mats/face full of ice water) rather than affecting the routes.
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Thanks A, I was thinking of going tomorrow. Was Big Marine dry?
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Totally, JB did Submarine, I fell off the last hold of the original.
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Ah, I may head there tomorrow with Blob 1 as a spotter :lol:
I've no idea why I find BM sooo hard :lol:
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Had about another 3 inches of snow here, the roads around us are horrendous. I'm not even sure I'd get to CyL. :lol:
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Mostly dry and very grippy today. Some seepage - mostly in the high break. All the traverses were dry and the big traverse was probably do-able (with maybe a couple of wet holds in the high break).
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Really not to bad this morning considering all the snow about. Top break seeping and a few micro seepages here and there but nowt drastic. Quite warm in the morning sun too which was nice :)
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Picture Postcode stuff yesterday early afternoon. Few seeps but otherwise great. Friction ok but not amazin, was grateful of the soft landing. :great:
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great again today but getting drippier. Dont reckon it will cope with a thaw.
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I was there today, it was in awesome nick. It was a lot less seepy than in my post of 31stDec' and that was still mostly dry, I don't think there's quite as much snow on top either so I reckon it'll be good for a while longer yet.
It's certainly faring better than some of the 'holiday' homes - the weight of snow avalanching down those big, steep pitched roofs has ripped at least one gutter off.
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sounds good, hopefully get there tomorrow
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I was there today, it was in awesome nick. It was a lot less seepy than in my post of 31stDec' and that was still mostly dry, I don't think there's quite as much snow on top either so I reckon it'll be good for a while longer yet.
It's certainly faring better than some of the 'holiday' homes - the weight of snow avalanching down those big, steep pitched roofs has ripped at least one gutter off.
Were you the monster working the big traverse?
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Were you the monster working the big traverse?
:wave:
Truth be told - I was mostly chatting.
We should have a secret handshake for times like that.
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Anyone know the state of play for tomorrow. Thanks in advance.
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Anyone been today?
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Zod went, said some dry, some wet. didn't go into details
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It was better than I thought it would be, a lot of the lower holds where wet. If it has stayed dry overnight it might be ok.
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It's been very windy with heavy rain all morning.
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Dont bother for at least a few days of dry weather. Seeping badly today.
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should of gone to bosley ;)
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should of gone to bosley ;)
:spank:
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About to set off, anyone got a current conditions report?
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Almost completely dry, and pleasantly warm in the sun.
Fookin baltic in the shade though.
-
Mint conditions today.
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Gave up on Woodwetwell, eh?
Snowing now, should keep it nice and cold.
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Mint conditions today.
Tell them the whole story - it was freezing, FOOKING FREEZING!
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Is it dry?
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I'd put money on it being pretty good.
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Who's been getting excited with there chalk balls? The area around big marine and sit starts etc, was absolutely coated today. A good circular foot around the crimps and probably more around the pinch/sloper. No where near the holds and pointless. Ive brushed some of it off. But flippin eck take it easy who ever it maybe. ???
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Who's been getting excited with there chalk balls? The area around big marine and sit starts etc, was absolutely coated today. A good circular foot around the crimps and probably more around the pinch/sloper. No where near the holds and pointless. Ive brushed some of it off. But flippin eck take it easy who ever it maybe. ???
It's not even been wet :shrug:
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Mostly dry - only a little bit of seepage around Bend and at the top of 7a.
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Does anyone else think that the problem of 'relieving ones bladder' is now a bit of an issue here. Cause i noticed most people inc myself have been pissing at the bottom of problems in an attempt to not flash to the local residents. The far end is also out of bounds, i think as the last 2 houses have families/small kids. So dunno, does anyone else who uses the place think its a prob and whats the answer??
I guess it does add a bit of incentive to nailing the new sit starts tho.
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I went over the road where there was a convenient hedge beyond the pile of rubble. Wasn't really too much effort to avoid pissing on the start of the problems...
As you say though, there were kids running about in one of the gardens when I was there so it seemed kind of inappropriate to do anything else!
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Conditions not too bad yesterday by the way, especially considering the quantity of rain recently. Apart from the usual grease on a few holds (do they ever de-grease??) the friction was decent.
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So how weather-proof is C-Y-L then?
Got a couple of weeks left of my current contract in Blackburn and now the daylight-after-work issue is sorted had been hoping to get up for a look at Big Marine/Fertile Delta/In Excess sitter before i leave.
Do these problems suffer from seepage much?
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Big Marine finishing jug and last gaston can get seepage. Generally after a few days of dry weather the seeps settle, and once dry it won't seep for a couple of days of light rain.
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So how weather-proof is C-Y-L then?
Got a couple of weeks left of my current contract in Blackburn and now the daylight-after-work issue is sorted had been hoping to get up for a look at Big Marine/Fertile Delta/In Excess sitter before i leave.
Do these problems suffer from seepage much?
I hear it can be a bit damp at the base of some problems :P
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Am I right in guessing it's all bone now? May well head up tomorrow night
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I would expect it'll be OK. Have fun.
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I was there yesterday evening and it was totally dry Andy. Take your duvet jacket though - the wind blowing along the crag was pretty chilly!
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Cheers. I was planning to wrap up warm anyway.
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Am I right in guessing it's all bone now? May well head up tomorrow night
You might find the chronic steepage an issue.
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Am I right in guessing it's all bone now? May well head up tomorrow night
Just be careful of the nesting serp, it's been in the top break for 10 days now, and its not responding yet to calls to come down.
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Am I right in guessing it's all bone now? May well head up tomorrow night
Just be careful of the nesting serp, it's been in the top break for 10 days now, and its not responding yet to calls to come down.
It's coming down with it's tail between it's legs every time it gets to the high break.
Off for some repeat humiliation shortly.
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Am I right in guessing it's all bone now? May well head up tomorrow night
Just be careful of the nesting serp, it's been in the top break for 10 days now, and its not responding yet to calls to come down.
I'd heard the nesting serp was due to be classed an endangered species by the RSBP ;D
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RSBP?
You still heading over, Andy? May see you there if I can wangle a trip out.
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Royal Society of Balding Punters...
Should be there around 5
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You'd have got a very different quality of beta if I'd read that prior to seeing you today :spank:
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Went last night and the entire crag was gopping - it hadn't rained much so it must've been in the mist in the morning. I suspect it might be similar today.
A couple of handy webcams:
http://www.weatherscene.co.uk/webcam/webcam.html (http://www.weatherscene.co.uk/webcam/webcam.html)
http://www.bbc.co.uk/lancashire/webcams/camera.shtml?h=han&camid=35257®ion=SD&mapregion=bbc_new_northwest (http://www.bbc.co.uk/lancashire/webcams/camera.shtml?h=han&camid=35257®ion=SD&mapregion=bbc_new_northwest)
http://www.bbc.co.uk/lancashire/webcams/camera.shtml?h=han&camid=37575®ion=SD&mapregion=bbc_new_northwest (http://www.bbc.co.uk/lancashire/webcams/camera.shtml?h=han&camid=37575®ion=SD&mapregion=bbc_new_northwest)
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Pretty decent tonight (thursday)
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Dates and times of each post are automagically displayed ;)
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Dates and times of each post are automagically displayed ;)
:-\ Really?
I was making it easy for people who might not know the exact date.
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Dates and times of each post are automagically displayed ;)
:-\ Really?
I was making it easy for people who might not know the exact date.
To be fair Ads, the bit where it says « Today at 18:21:38 » is a bit of a clue for those short of a calendar. ;D
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anyway, welcome to the high break club.
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Dates and times of each post are automagically displayed ;)
:-\ Really?
I was making it easy for people who might not know the exact date.
To be fair Ads, the bit where it says « Today at 18:21:38 » is a bit of a clue for those short of a calendar. ;D
Though in a few days it will only show a date. Hence someone might need to check what date it was.
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To check if the weather was decent last thursday, of course.
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FFS. Whatever. Won't bother in future.
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(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j217/hueloan/nevergiveup.jpg)
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Longridge has a new resident on guard to give the latest weather reports. :wave:
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs610.snc3/32125_389088941138_638291138_4185590_7777217_n.jpg)
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Longridge has a new resident on guard to give the latest weather reports. :wave:
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs610.snc3/32125_389088941138_638291138_4185590_7777217_n.jpg)
Lets hope he still has a head after my strimming! :-[
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TanMan, killer of furry animals.
(http://www.comedycentral.com/tosh.0/files/2009/09/kitten_in_blender.jpg)
You'd better watch out for a rampaging MagPie!!
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No Lincoln no! >:(
lol
I did wonder what those bits of furr were on the bend footholds.
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Just wondering, i know the BMC paid a fortune for the Longridge fence, its only a year and it starting to look a bit worse for wear, and fairly wobbly in parts. Id complain to the suppliers if id forked out what they have for it! So who's head of the longridge dept at the bmc?
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Probably because everyone sits on it?
Les is still the Lancs area rep (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Pages.aspx?page=107), probably your first port of call. les.ainsworth@synergy-ergs.com
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Yeh, is that not what climbers do.... sit on the fence :shrug:
Cool may email him summit.
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Has anyone been up of late, was thinking of braving it tonight, not been for a month, wondering how its holding out with the rain of late?
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Ahh its great to have my crag back, now all them pessy teachers and bums have f'ed off for the summer, i got my personal bone dry play ground back, all to myself.
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All the cool people must be at Jumbles ;)
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Ahh its great to have my crag back, now all them pessy teachers and bums have f'ed off for the summer, i got my personal bone dry play ground back, all to myself.
Seriously, it's bone?
Let me know when you've re cleaned the high break and I'll be back.
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No im exaggerating, the top break seeping in ususal places, but i was expecting it far worse. Everything else is pretty dry, wobbly block footholds wet and start to renal failure wet.
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Can anyone update on the conditions :please: ?
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Anybody been recently? How will it be after yesterday's deluge?
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Conditions were ok today, good conditions on the dry stuff but a bit greasy elsewhere. I thought I'd done In Excess sit start when in reality I'd done the fertile delta sit into in excess. Not a bad little problem though!
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Andi_e, was that you i bumped into up there on sat afternoon? Probes
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Was he skinny, scruffy haired and morose? That'll be
Andi_e Nemo then.
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...sounds right? with that crawled out of cave stare? ;)
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High break dry Paul?
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:thumbsdown: nope. rest ok tho and mint friction.
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Yeah that's me, were you the one I accused of being a sport climber?
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Ha ha, yeh thats me.. sports climber :o :lol:
Sports climbing... you mean training for real climbing!!
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Yeah that's me, were you the one I accused of being a sport climber?
At least Probes is accused of being some sort of climber... ;) ;D
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Any good today?
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Any good today?
It lashed it down last night! Roads still soaked.
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Since it had its hair cut, its amazing how quick it dries out down there now, and it just doesnt get hardly any drainage anymore, its just pisses straight off the top if it rains... so its always worth a crack.
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Yeah that's me, were you the one I accused of being a sport climber?
At least Probes is accused of being some sort of climber... ;) ;D
At least Probes takes less than 4 years to.... :whistle: :P :)
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Since it had its hair cut, its amazing how quick it dries out down there now, and it just doesnt get hardly any drainage anymore, its just pisses straight off the top if it rains... so its always worth a crack.
Indeed. I would risk it, but then i am only 10 mins away!
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Yeah that's me, were you the one I accused of being a sport climber?
At least Probes is accused of being some sort of climber... ;) ;D
At least Probes takes less than 4 years to.... :whistle: :P :)
:oops: Misread and a bitchy reply booo.... selfslap wrists
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Yeah that's me, were you the one I accused of being a sport climber?
At least Probes is accused of being some sort of climber... ;) ;D
At least Probes takes less than 4 years to.... :whistle: :P :)
Ouch. Andy retired 5 times in those 4 years. Also had a kid too. ;)
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Hardly any seepage today.
-
all dry today
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Anyone know if its worth me heading there tomorrow?
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It'll be dry, the only thing that could possibly fuck you up is if it's been in the mist in the morning.
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Slight chance I may be able to get there tomorrow afternoon, does anyone know the current conditions?
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It'll b sound
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Slight chance I may be able to get there tomorrow afternoon, does anyone know the current conditions?
Just pm'd you. :)
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Managed to find enough dry holds to have an enjoyable afternoon today but it was pretty wet and didn't appear to dry out much during the day
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The only thing not in condition today was me. Very little seepage - mostly just in the high break.
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Any chance its dry here today?
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no, come to the wall
the cave is sodden as well
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Any chance its dry here today?
I wouldn't like to say Jim. Its pretty damp on the road. I sure some bit will be climbable at the very least.
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Perfect at the moment.
-
What was the access like? Roads clear enough for a wanky old civic, or 4x4 only?
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What was the access like? Roads clear enough for a wanky old civic, or 4x4 only?
All fine till the road up to the crag. Was a bit icy still, and bit slushy in the sun. Just take it easy on the sharp bend and go real slow if any thing comes the other way. All good. :)
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Chances of dryness for tomorrow?
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Hi mate. :wave: You out tomorrow then? Coming from Chester I presume? Luke.
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All dry yesterday but utterly baltic...
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Shitty sleety rainy crap at the moment though.
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Grim today. A lot of melt water soaking the crag and sleet blowing in and not much to go at.
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Went today, pretty shit considering lack of rain this week.
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It was mint on Friday, but it was sunny. It should be bone dry - if it was wet then it must have been in the mist in the morning.
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Yeah it was pretty damp but I'm sure we could have stayed as I've just noticed in Power Club that someone climbed there on Sunday so there was probably lots to do if psyched. We went to boulder UK instead only to find upstairs closed due to resetting - on a Sunday afternoon! :thumbsdown:
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Ian moves in mysterious ways.
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Ian moves in mysterious ways.
Indeed. High stepping being his favourite. :P
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Is it dry currently? Or Reckon it will be on saturday?
cheers Tim
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Is it dry currently? Or Reckon it will be on saturday?
cheers Tim
Pissing it down now. Forecast for rain all day. Tomorrow looking sunny.
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Is it dry currently? Or Reckon it will be on saturday?
cheers Tim
Pissing it down now. Forecast for rain all day. Tomorrow looking sunny.
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/nw/preston_forecast_weather.html (http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/nw/preston_forecast_weather.html)
think anything could be dry there tomorrow afternoon or sunday?
How fast does it dry out after rain?
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Stuff will be dry. Not sure if its worth a trip from Manchester though. If its dry Sunday, i'd wait till then to be sure.
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Stuff will be dry. Not sure if its worth a trip from Manchester though. If its dry Sunday, i'd wait till then to be sure.
cheers mate, if you could give a heads up on saturday evening regarding the amount of rain on saturday that would be sufficient to decide about going sunday?
Not really done anything there before so i've got everything to do.
Cheers
Tim
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I might give it a shot tomorrow.
Check (http://www.bbc.co.uk/travelnews/lancashire/trafficcameras/) before you go.
Also:
(http://weatherscene.no-ip.org:8080/loading.jpg)
Currently not working, but generally gets fixed pretty quickly.
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I might give it a shot tomorrow.
Check (http://www.bbc.co.uk/travelnews/lancashire/trafficcameras/) before you go.
Also:
(http://weatherscene.no-ip.org:8080/loading.jpg)
Currently not working, but generally gets fixed pretty quickly.
well im keen to get there and give things a try Serpico, so if you know you are going and its defo gonna have dry things then give me a holler.
Cheers
Tim
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Stuff will be dry. Not sure if its worth a trip from Manchester though. If its dry Sunday, i'd wait till then to be sure.
cheers mate, if you could give a heads up on saturday evening regarding the amount of rain on saturday that would be sufficient to decide about going sunday?
I am going to Wales so won't know, but Serps will have a rough idea.
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Pissed down heavily here, reckon it might be fooked for the weekend.
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Anyone been recently? Is it likely to be dry tomorrow? I'm particularly interested in Big Marine.
Ta. Luke.
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Its seeping from every orifice as of this morning. Couldn't see one route without a wet hold on it.
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Its seeping from every orifice as of this morning.
Bit like you after a night down Canal Street then? :wave:
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Its drying out but still quite a lot of seeping holds and wet patches particularly Big Marine end and lot of the top holds still wet in general.
Ta
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All the traverses are dry from the start to the high break apart from a couple of wet footholds beneath the wobble block. Low life traverse is bone as is Ascent and Descent of Man.
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All mint sauce this afternoon bar one wet hold at the top off big micks marine. I got up in the top break and gave it a good scrub and chalk up, so it nice and grippy for you serps. :jab:
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I got up in the top break and gave it a good scrub and chalk up, so it nice and grippy for you serps. :jab:
Nice one Paul.
:beer2:
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Anyone been this week? Was thinking of heading down this afternoon and was just wondering if there was much seepage?
Cheers Dave
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I'm thinking of chancing it later. It's rained overnight in Bolton but looks to be clearing up in Preston:
(http://weatherscene.no-ip.org:8080/cam_1.jpg?uniq=0.7011844586428444)
A bit of sun on the crag might sort it.
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I was hoping that webcam link/image would update itself....
Here's (http://www.weatherscene.co.uk/webcam/webcam.html) the link to the page.
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I'm thinking of chancing it later. It's rained overnight in Bolton but looks to be clearing up in Preston:
(http://weatherscene.no-ip.org:8080/cam_1.jpg?uniq=0.7011844586428444)
A bit of sun on the crag might sort it.
It just showered in manchester, Still looking good for longridge?
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Who knows :shrug: Fortune favours the brave...
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Just drove home from West View and it's drizzled a few times. Sun is out now though.
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Thanks, shall probably chance it then.
Dave
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just got an updated txt from serpico @ Longridge, apparently its a littly chilly in the breeze but quite nice when the sun comes out.
Cheers
Tim
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All dry, no seepage.
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How's it looking today? some drizzle in manchester early on not sure how this potentially effects longridge
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yesterday lunch their was a little seepage in the lower part, the main issue was water dripping from the top of the crag. It was still OK for having a session on.
Since it hasn't rained since, I'd go for it.
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Top brake will be suffering and a few seeps elsewhere, but its had a really good dry out last few weeks so it should be good now for the rest of the season, unless its properly banging down for a couple of days.
and what G said above :)
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Off there today as M is too hot and K is still wet. Im assuming cyl is in perfect nick now?
Cheers
Tim
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It'll be fine today, I'll see you there.
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New Page, new forecasts...
Both these will update on refreshing the page.
(http://weatherscene.no-ip.org:8080/cam_1.jpg?uniq=0.5096016304292716)
(http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/England/Preston~2639912/meteogram.png)
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All dry today.
To the kids that left their empty coke cans there today - I've picked them up and recycled them for you, I'm not there all the time though so if you could clear up after yourselves in future it'd be appreciated.
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Did any go last night? I'm guessing it will be fine for a session this evening save the usually damp greasey patches.
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How were the conditions yesterday then?
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Good last night. Some seepage in the top break, but almost everything else was dry and grippy.
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nice one andy see you did bigmarine
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Longridge dry? been a few showers this week in manchester. Anyone got any conditions beta?
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Proper Robin Hood, at its Hairy Chest on Tuesday. Bet my Ken Dodds its still Bottle n Glass.
:tumble:
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All Stephen then? including the high chocolate?
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All Stephen then? including the high chocolate?
:look:
erm reckon i'll risk it then.
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All Stephen then? including the high chocolate?
Perfect for some Mobby Dick sideways Andy McNabbing
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What's Longridge like in warm weather?
Is is best to go early morning or late afternoon perhaps?
ta.
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Late afternoon is best, when the sun has gone off it.
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Anyone been down this week? Wondering how badly it has been affected by all the rain?
-
Was good. Some seepage low down on some footholds but not much really.
-
Anyone been in the last few days? Just wondering how it is after the rain over the weekend?
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Ok today. Trav workable. Bit of wetness at non-wobbly block.
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Did anyone go today and can comment on the state of play?
Thx
-
I think it probably would've been better today than it was on Friday, but it's properly pissed down tonight so I'm not optimistic about tomorrow. Are you still going to risk it? I'm game.
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Is it likely to be nice tomorrow (sunday)? Im contemplating a first visit from Sheffield, but have no idea if it'll be too hot or seeping etc :shrug:?
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Also, if you could let me know what time it comes into the shade that would be super!
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Is it likely to be nice tomorrow (sunday)? Im contemplating a first visit from Sheffield, but have no idea if it'll be too hot or seeping etc :shrug:?
Also, if you could let me know what time it comes into the shade that would be super!
The day itself is meant to be nice but there has been some rain this morning. Defo some bits will be climbable but maybe not at its best. Maybe Serps went today and can report back.
Shade from 2pm maybe....?
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Didn't get there after all. I wouldn't risk coming all the way from Sheffield given how much rain we've had.
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I was there this morning, at around 10:30am: absolutely gopping. Dripping wet on every square inch and drizzle was continuing to be blown onto it.
All came as a bit of a shock. I've only been frequenting the place for the last month and had come to regard it as a practically bomb-proof option: having had good days even during persistant rain - at worst just having to work around a bit of low seepage. Finding the crag so thoroughly soaked... almost as bad a surprise as being given a paedophile for Christmas.
Any regulars care to guess how long before it's climbable again, given the warm forecast?
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If it was totally gopping it usually means it's been in the mist overnight/in the morning. A dry, breezy day will sort it out, could be OK tomorrow but it's unpredictable.
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Monday 27th June conditions: all dry again except for a bit of low-level seepage below the non-wobbly block (and before then but below the level of the traverse's footholds).
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btw... I noticed that on the ukc logbook "start to central icefall direct" is given an F7b+ grade
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=188682 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=188682)
Is this right? Isn't it just the reverse of the full-length version of Tarot Plane - a V4? If so, F7b+ sport equivalent would be far too high. Especially considering that according to the C-Y-L wetpaint, central icefall direct to the non-wobbly block (the "second fifth") is F7b - and comprises far more climbing (the reverse of Cruel Country, V4/5, Going Deaf, V4, and part of Gruts, V3).
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btw... I noticed that on the ukc logbook "start to central icefall direct" is given an F7b+ grade
That's a bit optimistic, from the very start I think it's worth 7b, on it's own 7a+.
Are you sure it was a French grade and not 7b+ on the Farnell scale?
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looked like a french grade to me - I guess the simplest explaination would be user-generated bollocks content. Even F7a+/b for reversing a V4 seems a bit generous (toms traverse reverse at Woodwell gets F7a/+ and that's around V6). The wetpaint's F7b for the second fifth seems about right though - on Sunday I fell off the second-to-last move four times in a row... which seems about right given my pitiful stamina (although I have high hopes for a day when it isn't around 30oC and I'm not on my fourth day "on").
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looked like a french grade to me - I guess the simplest explaination would be user-generated bollocks content. Even F7a+/b for reversing a V4 seems a bit generous (toms traverse reverse at Woodwell gets F7a/+ and that's around V6).
I'm not a regular at CyL and find the style pretty difficult but reversing Tarot Plane seems about right at 7a+/7b (I'd tend more to the 7b end personally but that's probably just me). Done it a few times now and it does get much easier with practice. Can't think of a 7a sport route in the UK that's anywhere near as difficult.
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Start of the crag to CID is a lot harder than CID to the begining of the crag, maybe not 7b+ but not as far off as you'd imagine if you just do a translation of the boulder grade.
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btw... I noticed that on the ukc logbook "start to central icefall direct" is given an F7b+ grade
That's a bit optimistic, from the very start I think it's worth 7b, on it's own 7a+.
Are you sure it was a French grade and not 7b+ on the Farnell scale?
There's no way that short traverse is as hard as Comedy :whistle:
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Any conditions updates / predictions for the weekend greatly appreciated.
The forecast looks a showery mess for the weekend - so CYL appears my likeliest prospect for dry rock... but has it seeped after the heavy mid-week rains?
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decided to chance the trip:
Largely dry with surprisingly good conditions. Usual low seepage at wobble block but nothing limiting. Some seepage near the start of Bend...
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Has anyone visited recently - wondering about whether to chance a trip on Saturday?
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Cant help i'm afraid, but if you go i'd very much appreciate an update. I'd love to go up sunday and monday.
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I've made some enquiries and my sources tell me there wasn't a dry hold on the crag yesterday, and it's currently raining. Now the complete absence of a single dry hold usually means it's been in the mist, or it's really blown in, so it might not actually be seeping too badly yet, but I wouldn't risk travelling any distance to find out, best to send a stunt-local in first to test the water.
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Depending on the prospect of dry rock elsewhere, I might be tempted to give it a go anyway (it's either that or ducking showers and chasing wind-blown matts at Almscliff). I was at CYL last Saturday and Sunday with torrential rain on both days and the rock stayed dry throughout. So, if a breeze dispels the current wet it might feasibly stay dry for Saturday or Sunday?
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Conditions, Saturday 10:30am: largely dripping wet. Not the all-over misting of Thursday - more just bad seepiness (the odd, isolated "up" problem might have been doable but impossible to traverse more than a meter or two).
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Has anyone been since Saturday? Am thinking of heading up on Thursday perhaps...
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This is a good year to be injured :smart:
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I went back on Sunday (a combination of insomnia and desperation to get back on my projects) and was rewarded for my head-against-a-brick-wall stubborness with a near dry crag.
By the end of the day, the only seepage that would kibosh the full traverse was at the crux of Mr Skin (i.e. between wobble block and high break).
The start to wobble block though was entiirely doable (or would have been for someone with more stamina than me) - just some residual dampness that was fast fading.
Not sure about now though - there's was some heavy rain in Ilkley last night - I suspect given a clear breezy day you'd be okay though.
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Cheers Moose, looks to be lashing it down tomorrow afternoon, so not sure yet.
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When are you going tomorrow, Rick? I could possibly be there from 3pm.
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Hi G, I was supposed to have a meeting in Cumbria so was going to pop in on my way back, but it's been cancelled so think I'll head to W1 to check out r-mans new lines...you about?
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It was pretty good nick yesterday. The traverse was dry to the high break until about 18:30 when a bit of seepage came through on to one of the crux crimps. There was quite a bit of seepage in the high break, but from past experience it usually misses the holds you use on the traverse or to finish the blocs. Apart from some seepage low down beneath the (ex)wobble block, and beneath Bend, it was all good.
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mint conditions today, cool and hardly any seepage (a bit on some footholds to the right of the crag)
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Decent last night.
Looking at the wiki, do people really think that the full traverse is an 8a+ into a 7b+?
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This excludes the high break and the drop down move into BOTR which you would add some. Not sure about the overall grade for the end bit. BOTR is tough but you get a good rest in the corner.
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If you start dwelling on the difficulty of the individual sections you'll go mad trying to get it all to add up to 8b+, Ste Mac reckoned that it was all UK5c with a couple of 6a moves.
I tried to get as many people's opinions as possible on the links; everyone seems to agree on 8a+ from the start to the high break, Bend to the end is 7b+/7c, and the high break on it's own is about 6c, so adding in the high break it'd be 8a+ into a 7c. In practice though because you don't get much of a rest before the corner it's more like 8b to a hands-off bridge rest into a 7a+ to finish, which sounds even more unlikely, but people have still fallen off the final V2 traverse.
Almost ungradeable.
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Is it not V11?
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all i know is its way easier than Cry Freedom!!!!
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all i know is its way easier than Cry Freedom!!!!
its always a question of weight verses go go gadget arms!?
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Looking at the wiki, do people really think that the full traverse is an 8a+ into a 7b+?
I don't. From start of high break to the end is way harder than 7b+. (For reference, I thought the hard part of doing the full trav was doing Bend when you're pumped.)
Bend to the end is 7b+/7c, and the high break on it's own is about 6c, so adding in the high break it'd be 8a+ into a 7c.
IMO anyone who thinks that Bend to the end is 7b+ needs to learn to climb upwards, learn to climb with a rope on, or actually go and climb some 7b+s and 7cs. Low life on it's own would be 7b+ if it went upwards. I'd say High break + Bend + Low life + end pottering = 7c+/8aish. Or maybe I need to learn to traverse?
In practice though because you don't get much of a rest before the corner it's more like 8b to a hands-off bridge rest into a 7a+ to finish
Do you really mean that you think low life plus the bit after it is F7a+? I refer you to my earlier comment. But that is a better way to break it down - breaking it at the start of the high break doesn't really work, since (I found) the better rest points are a bit before the high break, and at the end of the high break.
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IMO anyone who thinks that Bend to the end is 7b+ needs to learn to climb upwards, learn to climb with a rope on, or actually go and climb some 7b+s and 7cs. Low life on it's own would be 7b+ if it went upwards. I'd say High break + Bend + Low life + end pottering = 7c+/8aish. Or maybe I need to learn to traverse?
I've done plenty of 7b+'s and 7c's thanks, all them were upwards, and I used a rope on all of them. Low life is 7b+ on it's own, but the full traverse doesn't finish along Low Life - it finishes along Ascent and Descent of Man, which are given V2 and V1 respectively, but which I think are probably a bit harder, and collectively worth Fr7a+.
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Oops. I just did what the guy on the video on vimeo did. Guess it doesn't really matter anyway given the no-hander (I couldn't get no-hands bridged but did manage to sit, facing rightwards on the low ledge on the right of the corner with a toe hook to keep me in which gave no hands).
I guess actually thinking about it stuff like Wild in Me is 7c and a harder boulder than something like Bend, so maybe Bend to the end is 7c.. I just always think of longer stuff when I think route grades, and long things almost always feel easier to me! So I take it back. It's 6 7b+s back to back, plus whatever you do after the final corner. You're right, it doesn't sound like it should add up to more than about 8a!
P.S. Reading the bit of my post you quoted I sound like a right dick. :sorry:
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Oops. I just did what the guy on the video on vimeo did. Guess it doesn't really matter anyway given the no-hander (I couldn't get no-hands bridged but did manage to sit, facing rightwards on the low ledge on the right of the corner with a toe hook to keep me in which gave no hands).
You can sit down facing L or R, but I've been trying it just using the bridge rest (which is better than it used to be) just because that ledge/niche has only appeared in the last few years, there used to be a large block occupying that niche, and I'm keen to do it in the spirit of the original ascent, which is pretty pointless really as it's not an eliminate, but it's a history thing...
Was that you I met on Saturday? Don't you live in Sheffield? Much respect for making the pilgrimage to try it if so.
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Id say 8b+ to the corner, anyone who blows it after the corner deserves a good clip round the ear. 8a+/b to the end of the top break defo, then a V6 boulder problem. Sounds familar that to me, 8a+/b into a V6/7 boulder problem... cry freedom?
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Id say 8b+ to the corner, anyone who blows it after the corner deserves a good clip round the ear.
<cough>TPM</cough>
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:whistle:
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Was that you I met on Saturday? Don't you live in Sheffield? Much respect for making the pilgrimage to try it if so.
Did you arrive just as I was leaving (and just as it was starting to rain)? If so then yeah, that was me. I like stupid things like traversing so a bit of a drive doesn't bother me! Plus I'm going to France again in a couple of weeks to try a 60m route so need to do stamina training... (or at least I have a passable excuse to keep doing stamina stuff for a bit longer instead of short things!)
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Except that the 60m route in france doesn't have a single flatty on it. I suggest climbing up and down the drainpipe on your house for a hour every day.
Falling off after the corner is better than stepping off at the corner and thinking you'd done the full traverse for 10 years...
Going there tonight, anyone know what the weather is like over there?
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Raining lightly in Horwich.
Preston Webcam:
(http://weatherscene.no-ip.org:8080/cam_1.jpg?uniq=0.5538887082784079)
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These are useful for a weather view;
http://www.bbc.co.uk/travelnews/lancashire/trafficcameras/ (http://www.bbc.co.uk/travelnews/lancashire/trafficcameras/)
Looks like rain Preston way.
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I suggest climbing up and down the drainpipe on your house for a hour every day.
Can I put that on my scorecard?
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Really good today despite the rain. Some seepage on the sit starts to fertile delta etc.
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still dry, anyone know? :-\
thx
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Except that the 60m route in france doesn't have a single flatty on it. I suggest climbing up and down the drainpipe on your house for a hour every day.
Falling off after the corner is better than stepping off at the corner and thinking you'd done the full traverse for 10 years...
Going there tonight, anyone know what the weather is like over there?
Ill second that, Longridge training does little good unless your goal is longridge.
Does that mean you've not done it then after all these years Ru? :(
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Anyone had a look recently?
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It's been torrential for a week, I wouldn't hold out too much hope.
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chances of it being dry this afternoon...? cheers
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Anyone been in the last day or so and/or like to gues what it'll be like tomorrow morning?
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I went down this morning, lots of it was dry but the odd hold was seeping. Was a lot of drips coming off the top though. Not been down before so can't make any prediction on what it'll be like tomorrow though I'm afraid
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I hope to go on thursday. Is this foolhardy? Cheers!
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This will likely be of no help, but it was dry on Sunday. Minor seepage that didn't get any worse during the day and the sun was burning off any surface water that had run down from the top. It's been showery since but possibly not enough to result in much more seepage by Thursday. I guess the main threat is if the strong winds continue and a shower sprays the crag shortly beforehand.
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Crag was surprisingly dry on Sunday in case anyone's interested. Odd bits of wet in the usual places (high break and under the not very wobbly block) but generally avoidable. Conditions got better through the day with a bit of sun drying up the grease. Hopefully back next weekend, so I'd be interested to know how it's holding out if anyone gets there in the week.
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Was that you training upstairs at the Leeds Wall this evening or am I putting two and two together and getting forty-two?
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Probably comes as no surprise but absolutely bone dry yesterday
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Thinking of a day trip on Wednesday, what are the chances of dry forecast is showery most days till then. Does she have a lot of seepage, the submarine bit especially.
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As long as the wind and rain has not been blowing on to the crag the night before... east/n or s easterly, it should be pretty much an ok. Seems to be holding bugger all seepage anymore. The normal state of play.. Might find top break will be wet/damp, which will be exciting toping big marine, and a few random seeps on some sitters, which can ususally be coped with. Sub & supersub should be ok.
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Cheers very big,
West and west south westerly so should be good. Positive thoughts, thats what I'm thinking.
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I'm presuming wet currently, but I've been surprised by her before. Anybody been recently?
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Roads a little damp in P-town, but drying fast. Cloudy over Longridge direction. Breezy and cold.
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Thinking of a visit saturday (again not been yet) Anyone local with input tommorow would be gratefully recived!
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Almost certainly fucked given the amount of rain we've had today/recently/forecast.
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Anyone been lately? Was thinking about making a trip over on Sunday.
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Very frustrating today. Pretty dry with minor seeps but disgustingly greasy. Hands dragging and blowing off holds. Big marine just sketchable and then thwarted by a sopping jug.
Incidentally, I filled a carrier bag with litter from beneath the crag today.
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Has anyone been up today? I'm guessing it'd be a bit seepy but would be grateful for some first-hand knowledge.
Many thanks.
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Just in case there's anyone rushing to visit this week, I went Sunday and it was soaked. Odd things at the left hand side should dry fairly quickly, but the rest looked like it needed a week or so to make it worthwhile. Would be interested if anyone has any updates before the weekend.
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Decent up to date topo now been done by Greg at Lakesbloc. Good job Greg. Tricky task!
http://lakesbloc.com/guides/longridge-topo.pdf (http://lakesbloc.com/guides/longridge-topo.pdf)
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Nice one Greg, nice one Adam.
Worth a punt tomorrow?
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Nice one Greg, nice one Adam.
Worth a punt tomorrow?
Always worth a punt. Was okay thursday last week. Wet bits but still stuff to do. Didn't get much snow here, so with todays sun, maybe ok.
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Anyone been this week? Is it likely to be dry enough tomorrow?
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Wetter than I'd expected, but still climbable - just a bit cold and wet ground makes it awkward to keep feet clean if you're traversing. Damp crimps on Tarot Plane, but low traverse on same section is OK. All the traverses heading rightwards from there are dry enough until the wet holds on crux of Mr Skin, but low variation is fine. Wet break on Big Marine area, but it still got done after drying.
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Dropped in on the way past today, but didn't climb. Bit damp in places, but generally OK. Bit wet in the high break left of the (formerly) wobbly block. The ground is also a lot drier than it has been lately. If anyone's down over the next two days, can you let me know if it's still dry as I'm in the area on Sunday.
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Does anyone know if it's dry?
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Neil, if you get there before 12 today can you drop me a txt if it's dry?
Ta muchly.
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Pretty much dry, bit damp on ground. Odd wet bits but dry enough for a full session.
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Been there today and unsurprisingly its bone dry, however the medium sized ladder has gone! The small and 2 larger ladders are there but both of which making trying Colon Power very awkward...
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Anyone been in the last few days? I'm guessing there will be some wetness given the rain we've had in the last week, but maybe there was a special Longridge micro climate and it's bone dry. Was thinking I might end up there one day this weekend, most likely Sunday.
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Amazingly dry tonight, a little bit of seepage beneath the (no longer) wobbly block, the footholds beneath Bend, and in the high break, but other than that, bone.
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Any idea how Longridge will be on Friday evening?
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Any update? The weather maps have it looking pretty wet? Right now forecast is for less rain on Saturday. Will it be worth it?
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I think you should be ok, unless its solid rain for a couple of days. Been pretty dry at the moment.
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It was dry at the weekend, I think it'll be fine.
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Some slight seepage in the high break last night but nothing to stop the psyched.
Tis throwning it down now tho :(
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Generally in good nick yesterday, just the odd minor bit of seepage here and there.
I've recently come across a few other good sit starts (both easy and hard) which are not on the Wiki or previous topo, so I've now updated the PDF to include these:
http://lakesbloc.com/guides/longridge-topo.pdf (http://lakesbloc.com/guides/longridge-topo.pdf)
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How much rain was there on Sunday? Does anyone know if it's still in good nick?
Thanks.
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It's been holding out pretty well, even after all the rain. Top break was quite wet on Saturday, plus the odd other wet patch, but nothing to stop you having a good session. My guess would be that it's fine, but I should be getting an update later on so I'll post up if I do (or Serpico will if he beats me to it).
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Thanks very much.
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Update from the man on the scene is it's still dry today.
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Anyone been recently?
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Pretty good at the mo... only the top break still hanging on to a bit of seepage.
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I was there till dark last night. A few damp spots, but most stuff pretty dry.
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89% dry today though I drove back through some heavey rain so if yo go there and find it's actaully only 88% dry or less, this will be why.
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Which 11/12 % was wet? May try and head over tomorrow, weather permitting.
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There was just the odd damp patch so if you were just looking for a work out then there is loads (most things) to go at. Just the most stubborn bits are staying wet. The reaosn I am being so circumspect is because I always find it hard to tell with C y L whats dry and what's not until you pull on. If you are after somewhere closer to home I was at Pex last night and that was dry.............
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I'll be there tomorrow. 88% dry steepness is better than 100% dry slabbyness.
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More like 93% dryness tonight, but the impending rain may reduce that figure somewhat...
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Been to cyl today, the top break is wet in sections (like above Big Marine and Push to Prolapse) but generally the holds at normal height for the traverse are dry. Fertile Delta area is wet (as per norm) but generally worth the trip. Reckon it will improve over the next few days before the rain come thurs/fri.
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Anyone been since the deluge as stopped? Thinking of going this evening but not sure is worth the drive
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It was wet
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Amazingly dry, and completely midge free this evening. There's some wet footholds beneath the stable block, and beneath BOTR, and one wet-ish looking hold in the high break, but I think the full traverse is probably dry enough to do.
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really??? How was In Excess SDS? Wet or doable?
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Wet.
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hmm may have to wait a few days then
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Went today and it was certainly climable there - not sure of the specific problems/holds in any detail but we got a bit done and there seemed to be a strong team keeping busy further along.
A few bits of seepage low down and a few damp holds here and there, but OK. The headwall above the top break was starting to get a streaks running down it from the top.
First time there, top spot!.
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all major lines dry
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all major lines dry
:jaw:
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In your face Farnell.
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:icon_welcome:
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Any news? Is this place wet at moment, heard it was okay at the weekend?
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I imagine it would be okay atm, not rained significantly here this weekend. Heading there tomorrow.
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Any news? Is this place wet at moment, heard it was okay at the weekend?
Alright Dan, I went on Sunday and it was seeping pretty badly and generally shit. Still compared to Woodwell which had a stream flowing from beneath Tom's Roof, that was pretty good...
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Any news? Is this place wet at moment, heard it was okay at the weekend?
Alright Dan, I went on Sunday and it was seeping pretty badly and generally shit. Still compared to Woodwell which had a stream flowing from beneath Tom's Roof, that was pretty good...
I also went Sunday and thought it was OK. Too wet for the traverse (for me anyway!), but dry enough for a good session. Depends what you're after doing.
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Cheers guys, Err Greg's sit to Priory looks good. Just want a bit of a session on rock really.... its been a while!
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Any news? Is this place wet at moment, heard it was okay at the weekend?
Alright Dan, I went on Sunday and it was seeping pretty badly and generally shit. Still compared to Woodwell which had a stream flowing from beneath Tom's Roof, that was pretty good...
No river anymore!
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Pretty dry tonight, a few wet foot holds. No wind but mercifully few midges.
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Dry, including the top break. Couple of wet holds under Bend in the Rainbow, so some of the up problems there might be tricky. Shame it's going to rain all week...
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Fertile Delta and In Excess Sit downs were dry yesterday.
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Not anymore there not, started to seep when I was there and now Fertile Delta is sopping.
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Would it be ridiculously optomistic to head there this evening?
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Shite conditions tonight - quite a bit of seepage about, and a lot of damp or greasy holds.
Humid and midgey as well.
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Just heard via the magic of FaceBook that it's wet this morning, I suspect it's sitting in mist overnight with the current high humidity.
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most lines dry but a little greasy
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All major lines dry today including the traverse, video to follow with a bit of failure on the middle bit to. Also I regret to inform everyone the ladder is now deceased, it was looking worse for wear last week with only one rail left but it broke under the strain of my 70kg body and snapped :'(. Can still be used with one of the bits though!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/joedobson91/7888527310/#in/photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joedobson91/7888527310/#in/photostream)
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Anyone been lately? I'm thinking of taking a punt tomorrow evening
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Arran was there Monday. I'm sure he'll pop up to provide a better report, but sounded fine. Bit wet in top break still. If you do go and top break has dried, could you post up here?
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Most things were pretty dry as you would expect. There was a seepage patch on the high break left of Big Marine and possibly damp elsewhere but nothing obvious, sorry but I didn't (can't) go up there. It's overcast and slightly drizzly in my part of Lancs today
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Forecast is showing a blob of rain sitting near Preston all day, but nowhere else in Lancs. It's fine in Bolton. Bad luck!
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Never having visited the mighty CYL what are the chances of it being dry on Saturday (Given it does shit it down any more between now and then...)?
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Bump... any local wisdom?
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Raining today so almost certainly shit.
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Raining today so almost certainly shit.
Thanks Serps, suspected as much... but hoped for a different answer :(
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Edit
Looks OK on the webcam I use to check before visiting, so who knows... I wouldn't risk it if travelling any distance though.
(http://weatherscene.no-ip.org:8080/cam_1.jpg?uniq=0.48065788677417176)
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These (http://www.bbc.co.uk/travelnews/lancashire/trafficcameras) are useful for checking the weather (and traffic) up there as well.
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thanks Serpico
Tomtom will message you tomorrow to decide if its worth a trip
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How's it looking at the big L?
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Minty conditions today, although some of the higher breaks were seeping so not so good if you're into shuffling sideways.
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anyone been up there recently? Only interested in the traverse so hopefully shouldn't be to bad :-\
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Does CyL get written off over the winter or is it worth checking out tomorrow (Sunday)
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Definitely worth it. Stuff added to ukc logbooks yesterday so partly dry at least, would imagine mostly ok given how dry it's been.
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Went, didn't encounter any wetness but I didn't look past the non-wobbly block. Felt greasy but I think that's more from needing a bit of a clean rather than dampness. The sun even came out and it was mint to be climbing outdoors for the first time in ages.
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just come back from a very brief session at longridge, everythings dry but my god was it cold. Pads never stayed on the floor longer for longer than a few minutes to the wind.
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thanks for that report, somewhat puts me off trip down tomorrow...
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I'm heading back anyway, if the wind eases off. Only lasted a hour and only managed to climb for 5 minutes, spent more time chasing things and warming my fingers up.
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It's dry as a bone at the moment! A little bit windy though.
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Which way does the crag face? I'm trying to work out if it'll be sheltered from the wind this afternoon. I'm guessing it's a bit Eastish as the sun comes off mid afternoon in winter (I think)
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South-south-east
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=longridge&hl=en&ll=53.84008,-2.579711&spn=0.003387,0.009457&sll=54.781755,-1.552237&sspn=0.211852,0.605278&t=h&hnear=Longridge,+Lancashire,+United+Kingdom&z=18
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Absolutely bone dry at the moment, as you might expect
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Few seepage lines yesterday evening; Push to Prolapse and sitters to Fertile Delta and In Excess. Most other things dry. A lot of the big holds at shoulder height were pretty gopping but I'd expect them to dry out soon as it was pretty warm with a good breeze
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Bone dry tonight but started raining as we left
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Very good conditions last night. Everything dry.
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Now totally dry but horribly greasy yesterday and Wednesday. Take a brush as most of the holds are over chalked and now a bit paste-like
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Has anyone any updates, I'm keen to go on Sunday
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Was a bit greasy on Friday but most things were doable, imagine similar for tomorrow. Tim.
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Had a good session in between rain showers and the traverse is all dry bar the high break. Many of the tops however are wet and some low feet.
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Everything dry today.
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Anyone got an update.
Cheers in advance
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all dry today, even low problems like in excess, gauntlet sds and fertile delta.
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Anybody been for a look recently?
Cheers,
George.
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been raining in preston for 2 days straight, some stuff will be dry but I reckon the usual spots will be seeping now.
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Anyone know Craig-y's likely to be dry over the weekend? Mainly interested in the more sideways aspect of the place.
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Lots of water dripping off the top today soaking mats and the ground but the rock was otherwise in good condition (mind you I didn't even go as far as the wobbly block)
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Any idea if itll be dry tomorrow?
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It was pretty OK on Monday, so should be stuff there to climb tomorrow.
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Was there last night and the footholds were seeping in a few places and there were still a few drips coming from above. I'm sure there'll be stuff to climb but if you are after the full traverse you're going o be disappointed
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Was anyone there yesterday? I'm wondering if it is worth a visit this evening
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Any idea whar it's like? Probably heading there tomorrow.
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Has anyone been recently and know if there is any seepage due to the weather?
Cheers.
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Hi, has anyone been recently, or able to advise on whether going for a look is a terrible idea?
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Been a fair bit of rain earlier this week but windy and dry today.
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...so likely to be some seepy bits and some dry bits.
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Thanks for that! I should have mentioned it would be Saturday I'd be heading there, so possibly a few more days to dry, I might risk it.
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Mostly all dry, just a bit of wetness near the rh side on a few sit starts (submarine I think) and the upper juggy break
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Some seepage in the usual places. Very soapy and slippery in general though. Yuck.
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Has anyone been lately, just wondering if it has survived the various deluges we've had lately?
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I was there on Friday?
It was mostly dry but very soapy to the right of central icefall
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Anyone been recently? Is the top break dry?
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Is this likely to be dry tomorrow at all? I'm in the area and wondered if it's worth a look in...
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Is this likely to be dry tomorrow at all? I'm in the area and wondered if it's worth a look in...
Dunno - but theres a lancashire climbing facebook group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682/
that'll probably have some more up to date news if you post there...
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I wouldn't be too hopeful, it's pissed it down solidly for 3 days now.
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Is anything dry? Does it seep right across the crag?
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
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All wet according to Probes on the Longridge facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1481318945516334/?fref=ts
It's not a good crag for the wet season.
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Can I get a connies report please? I'm weighing up my options for this weekend.
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Can I get a connies report please? I'm weighing up my options for this weekend.
Haven't been for ages now but it's been properly horrible most days at the office which is ~15 mins away from Longridge.
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Anybody been recently and know what it's like?
Debating whether to pop down tomorrow. :-\
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I have no idea - but the S Lakes lime is pretty decent - so would have thought there wouldn't be too much seepage there...
Or have a look at the Facebook group Lancashire Rock Revival...
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this is also up on fb.. Craig y Longridge Appreciation Society
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1481318945516334/
Quite a lot of seepage yesterday, and pretty hard going smeg, but still enough dry to get a work out..
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Thanks guys! I may pop by later or alternatively go and do Westviews new boulder set... :-\
I'm planning on clearing the 7's this year at Craig Y, so need to start putting some hours in. If only the sun lasted for more than a day!
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Longridge is crap for seepage.
If you are looking for Preston-local options there are some decent steep sevens at Stanworth which dry faster.
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Just left there. Few wet holds in the break at the top. Was windy and drying
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Anyone been recently or know what the weather has been like there? Thinking of going today.
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Anyone know how it's looking? Might be up that way with work on Monday :)
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Very sweaty and greasy earlier in the week.
I expect it will have improved a lot since then, but on Monday evening there was much dampness right of Central Icefall, with wet streaks on many low footholds. High break almost universally wet too.
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Posted up on the FB page but no replies yet so if anyone can offer any advice...
Only been to CYL 4-5 times before and its always been dry/not rained for a few days.
Thinking of going tomorrow - but I know it bucketed it down a couple of nights ago, and have been fairly heavy showers since.. anyone with a local crystal ball happen to chance whether or not it'll be worth my trip? Wanting to play on Big Marine + Fertile Delta etc..
I guess what I want to know is roughly how quickly does it start to seep (and roughly how much rain..) and how long it takes to stop seeping/dry out!
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probably best wait for local advice before committing but for what it's worth, I've found that CYL starts to seep pretty quick and clears fairly fast if there's sun. Snowmelt could be an ongoing problem. I would guess you might risk a spoogy Fertile Delta pocket, and seepage at the top hold of Big Marine (not that I've managed to get near it!).
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probably best wait for local advice before committing but for what it's worth, I've found that CYL starts to seep pretty quick and clears fairly fast if there's sun. Snowmelt could be an ongoing problem. I would guess you might risk a spoogy Fertile Delta pocket, and seepage at the top hold of Big Marine (not that I've managed to get near it!).
Yeah... thanks Moose. I guess there's probably something dry somewhere there....
Anyone any CYL recommendations in the 7A > 7B range?
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I'm a pervert traverser myself - sideways shuffling for kicks. I have always found the up problems nails for the grade - took me repeated sessions to do the Gauntlet and it's meant to be V5ish! I still can't get near some of the V2/3 dynos to the left (let alone the Vickers eliminate which is meant to be good). I did like Push to Prolapse and the eliminate what doesn't use the undercut - Motion Vector? I liked Fertile Delta (but you already know of that) - the sitter is a project of mine as I like the rose move into the pocket.
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Sitter didn't feel too bad - worked it at the end of my last session and got through to the rose move (which felt quite doable when fresh). The dyno was low percentage for me last time so only had one or two efforts on the top (that I've not figured yet)
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All good. The odd seep but nothing getting in the way.
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Hoping to make my first visit here on Wednesday. Anyone been this weekend? Is it dry enough?
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Was all wet on March 11th, according to the Facebook group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1481318945516334/?ref=bookmarks
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Anyone know if It's all dry?
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No it'll be pretty seepy up there at the mo. High break will be soaked and the normal wet spots will be showing.
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Anyone local know if Longridge will be dry by 5pm'ish today? Due to be sunny with a breeze but there has been a lot of rain yesterday and overnight.
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Dry as a bone at the moment Ash :great:
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Sorry to resurrect and ancient topic. :sorry:
Does anyone know if Craig-Y is dry atm?
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I was there last night and yes, it was dry (and very cold, glassy even).
The traverse hasn't seen much attention this year by the looks of it so some bits are a little sandy and even un-chalked.
It's worth pointing out that the sandy horn on the very first bit is now incredibly loose, I can't see it surviving the season. There's no saving it.
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Thanks Paul for last weeks reply.
I'm planning on going back today, just concerned re seepage. Does anyone know if Craig-Y is dry following yesterdays drizzle, any info on how long it takes to seep would be appreciated.
Thanks Alex
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I went on Tues and it was absolutely fine (a little on the cold side!); it'll be fine today if you go after the shade has arrived.
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Anyone been recently know the conditions?
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Anyone been recently know the conditions?
There’s a FB group Craig Y Longridge appreciation society - that you could try.
My guess (total guess) would be that it’ll be quite seepy.
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Thanks for your reply. I'm not on Facebook. I gave it a punt anyway and it's not too bad mostly dry
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Thanks for your reply. I'm not on Facebook. I gave it a punt anyway and it's not too bad mostly dry
👍👍
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Mostly pretty good this afternoon. Didn’t get on anything hard but all good on the stuff I was trying!
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Anyone been recently? I'm thinking of going tomorrow, but will find an alternative if it's seeping from the recent showers.
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I went on Saturday morning and the top band and early footholds were seeping pretty badly. It then rained most of Saturday afternoon.
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Does anybody know the current state of play at all?
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I think it should be in very good condition as its hardly rained around here in a while and my stone trough/bird bath has all dried up.
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Thanks for the heads up, it was mint yesterday.
I finally got on Delta Force though didn't do it. Are the holds circled below all in? I wasn't sure if the pocket was duos for each hand and then jump to the jug or whether you can have pocket for the right hand, a hold out left for the left hand.
There also seems to be a video on Vimeo that I can't watch for some reason. If anybody has a link to a video of it working, it'd be good to see.
(https://i.ibb.co/6ZZNN63/df.jpg) (https://ibb.co/thh33y7)
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Hmmm, not sure.
I'll try and look at the dishwasher
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Probably need to be signed into Vimeo to watch
https://vimeo.com/40003314
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Thanks for the heads up, it was mint yesterday.
I finally got on Delta Force though didn't do it. Are the holds circled below all in? I wasn't sure if the pocket was duos for each hand and then jump to the jug or whether you can have pocket for the right hand, a hold out left for the left hand.
There also seems to be a video on Vimeo that I can't watch for some reason. If anybody has a link to a video of it working, it'd be good to see.
(https://i.ibb.co/6ZZNN63/df.jpg) (https://ibb.co/thh33y7)
Yep, those are all in, plus heal/toe or what ever can be cobbled together out left. Right hand right crimp direct below pocket and roll left over into pocket. Stern for 7c.
That vid is Fertile delta left sitter, v8 a bit keen too, v6/7.
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Am I interpreting this correctly as the circled sections are the holds for Delta Force then? So left and right onto the second set of crimps, toe/heel on the spike way out left then roll over with the right into the pocket?
Whenever I've gone to look at this, I've always been trying to start further right.
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Yes, that's the concensus last I remember... but go left into pocket, I think it would be harder to go right, and the little spike out left could be used I guess but I don't think you'll reach the pocket off that. The big jug (start hold to Fertile delta) or something around there seems to be the best way.
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Sorry yeah, left into pocket (more fool me for trying to rush a post). Thanks, I'll give it another look next time I'm there!
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Thanks for the notes all here.
I couldn't get any sort of heel toe to work so was keeping feet directly beneath me on the ledge edges and ultimately going right hand up to the pocket through swinging my foot out to the right. Managed to make a good mockup on the home board so will give it a good few sessions then revisit I think.
I think this feels pretty stern for 7c by the way no?
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Hi Monolith, i was trying this on Thursday. Similarly I tried a few things. I felt like getting a heel cam at the top of the niche was going to snap it right off, so thought I'd try toe hooks instead. I thought that I could envisage tucking it right into the square-cut bottom right of the fertile delta start hold niche and a right foot on the raised platform ledge, which whilst never "stuck", I actually managed to poke my fingers into the pocket on at least two occasions. Never stuck it because both times I didn't expect to get into the pocket.
Having cogitated on it post-session, Either I'll stick with this beta or try a slightly lower heel than the starting hold itself.
I bopped out Colon Power at the end of the session after having not climbed outdoors for ~8 months, so no idea how CP falls in line with 7C, but Delta Force is something harder for sure!
Not sure whether the current weather means Delta Force/Craigy is off for the foreseeable future?
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Hi Monolith, i was trying this on Thursday. Similarly I tried a few things. I felt like getting a heel cam at the top of the niche was going to snap it right off, so thought I'd try toe hooks instead. I thought that I could envisage tucking it right into the square-cut bottom right of the fertile delta start hold niche and a right foot on the raised platform ledge, which whilst never "stuck", I actually managed to poke my fingers into the pocket on at least two occasions. Never stuck it because both times I didn't expect to get into the pocket.
Having cogitated on it post-session, Either I'll stick with this beta or try a slightly lower heel than the starting hold itself.
I bopped out Colon Power at the end of the session after having not climbed outdoors for ~8 months, so no idea how CP falls in line with 7C, but Delta Force is something harder for sure!
Not sure whether the current weather means Delta Force/Craigy is off for the foreseeable future?
Sounds like a session well spent, good work! I'm keen to revisit it and try to get more action going on with the left foot as the way I've been trying it is definitely a harder proposition I think. Chris D kindly sent me an image of when he first did it and he seemed to be getting some good foot action on the go.
I too am worried that this deluge might take it back out of condition but given I need some more sessions back on the board, it's not a total disaster. Let me know if you ever fancy hooking up to try it M1V0. Mondays, Tuesdays or Fridays can work for me at the moment.
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Would I be right in thinking that after this morning's deluge Craig y is a waste of time?
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Would I be right in thinking that after this morning's deluge Craig y is a waste of time?
Yes!
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Went yesterday evening, plenty of seepage but the left hand side was broadly fine up to Central Icefall. Right hand side wet. Bend might have been doable. I'm keen to put a bit of time into the traverse this autumn so if people go it would be good to hear how dry/wet/fucked it is. I'm also keen to know where the kneebars are!
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Thanks - good update, was just wondering about this.
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Kneebars - there’s one in Central Icefall with a couple of variations. I don’t think there’s a kneebar at the wobbly block but lots of variations of rests. I think the next kneebar is after the crux bit (Mr Skin) before you go up to the high break. I wasn’t using this as you had to do an awkward climb down to use it and then back up. Then there’s supposed to be a hands-off rest at the bottom of New Stone Age that I could never get to work - but I never made it that far on the link.
Someone will probably come along and point out how many I’ve missed!
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Cheers for the heads up spidermonkey, I went this evening and had a great time on the (still dry) left.
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Kneebars - there’s one in Central Icefall with a couple of variations. I don’t think there’s a kneebar at the wobbly block but lots of variations of rests. I think the next kneebar is after the crux bit (Mr Skin) before you go up to the high break. I wasn’t using this as you had to do an awkward climb down to use it and then back up. Then there’s supposed to be a hands-off rest at the bottom of New Stone Age that I could never get to work - but I never made it that far on the link.
Someone will probably come along and point out how many I’ve missed!
Those are the only proper good rests I ever found, although I have also probably missed some. IIRC the Central Ice Fall rest was a weird right knee-scum combined with an arm-bar / chicken wing. I could never get a knee-bar to fit at the Wobbly Block but it always felt a possibility - maybe very shin-length dependent. Same as you with the Mister Skin non-rest; blasting through at high level and resting on the jugs after the hard moves seemed more efficient.
I really should return to CYL and attend to my unfinished business there. But it's gone from a really reliable, near perma-dry option to almost always seeping in recent years. During a past CYL phase, I painstakingly constructed a pdf diagram showing how all the individual short, boulder traverses (Tarot Plane, Cruel Country etc.) combined into the sport graded links (Middle Bit Plus, Middle Third etc) - just looking at it makes me feel nostalgic!
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Get it uploaded Moose!
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It was before I was into knees so much, but I just remember one in the obvious corner after the easier first part. Wobbly block I had some weird rest but don't think it was a knee. Then a back-and-foot or sat down weird thing in the corner after Bend. The rest I just shook on jugs.
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Get it uploaded Moose!
The Longridge wiki is no more but some pages are still available on waybackwhen:
https://web.archive.org/web/20111111175005/http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Traverses+and+Links
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Anyone been lately? Looking for somewhere to meet a mate part way between Lakes and Sheffield that might be climbable tomorrow. I used to be pretty good at predicting Longridge conditions, but haven't been a regular for a few years so my knowledge is a bit out of date.
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Paul Robins has been working up there the last few weeks so I'd imagine he would know. Hopefully he'll chip in. Id be surprised if much was dry, it's absolutely pissed it down in Lancs the last week or so.
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From a report yesterday on LCCC:
It's a no go. The ground is extremely boggy and there's widespread seepage.
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Cheers both. Think we might head to a wall and hope the weather on Sunday is a bit better!
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I was working up there on Weds, full gop, so it would be a no go, pretty much guarantee it'll be similar today with the rain yesterday. There's a fair amount of thistle down, which is banked up near the entrance, so blocked access to half of the warm ups. And the same at the top end past the resting corner. I've kept the rest clear, so climbing on the main section is as normal.
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What work have you been doing Probes? Any magical seepage/white spooge reduction in the offing?
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Hopefully!! That white gunk seems to have eased I reckon. It must have been seepage from the limestone hardcore used to fill the trench when they dug the road up.
Yeah, clearing the top of all thistle and trimming the trees back, that were getting out of hand. I've also done a big sweep through of any loose material on top. This was pretty shocking tbh... when I did the fence I could see there was a fair bit of loose stuff perched on the lip. But, as I've come to do it, there has been loads of really pretty big slabs and boulders along the whole banking that have tippled off with next to no help. Completely blind from below. Amazing no one has copped one on the head up to now. I think back to when I went up with my daughter as a baby, and she was rolling about on mats at bottom for hours, all this lot perched on top. Shiver.
Any how, once finished up top, there's some repairs to the fence at the far end to be done.
Hopefully it'll help with drainage, might speed up drying back, especially if the top is a bit more open... less of a sponge.
I've also filled a few of the post holes of the metal fence, to try and direct any water running down the road, to stay on the road.
Btw this work is curtesy of the bmc! :strongbench:
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Thats good to know, it was really bad when I went last year. Sounds like a good job of work, nice one!
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Does anyone know what Craig y would be like this evening or tomorrow? I'm completely stumped when it comes to guessing how Craig y would be.
And thanks Probes (and BMC) for the effort put in recently!
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Should be reet :2thumbsup:
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Went this evening. Pristine conditions. Almost the best I’ve seen it. Must be something to do with the tidying! Which is a monumental effort, the top is looking very tidy.
Also, one of the houses behind mentioned that some rocks have been coming off the top in the high winds recently, so be aware and stay close to the wall. Either that or Probes was lobbing rocks at them?
Sounds like a session well spent, good work! I'm keen to revisit it and try to get more action going on with the left foot as the way I've been trying it is definitely a harder proposition I think. Chris D kindly sent me an image of when he first did it and he seemed to be getting some good foot action on the go.
I too am worried that this deluge might take it back out of condition but given I need some more sessions back on the board, it's not a total disaster. Let me know if you ever fancy hooking up to try it M1V0. Mondays, Tuesdays or Fridays can work for me at the moment.
Not to resurrect old comments, and depends whether you’ve still interest in Delta Force Monolith, but from todays session I am aware of two different ways of getting into the pocket. One involves a far left foot (which I have a video of the intention, not it happening as I was too tired), the other matching the pocket (which is vile). Didn’t manage to do it today so will be back again! Apologies for never taking up your offer, I was living in the NE at the time with no car, so Craig y was not often on the cards!