UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Luke Owens on February 08, 2013, 04:05:52 pm
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After Ondra climbed La Dura Dura it got me thinking about unclimbed projects.
Are there many infamous projects about? I don't know much about it but I've heard a bit about Brandenburg Gate. Has this received much attention?
Just intrigued really...
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Dinbren bulge ;)
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that thing at boux (bout de monde?)
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wizard ridge? (burbage south)
ferocity (ansteys cove)
...
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that thing at boux (bout de monde?)
Bombé bleu? (Le Plage).
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Dinbren bulge ;)
The Ivy Roof? Looks seriously nails!
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Sharma has a line bolted at Ceuse that may be approximately 10a.
Ondra's project at the Red River Gorge involves 4 consecutive 8B+ boulder problems with apparently no rests.
According to Ondra, the full line of Thor's Hammer at Flatanger (bolted by Magnus Mitbo) involves an 8C boulder problem after a hard 9a+ route.
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Would you rather have a project in progress or a secret crag?
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Would you rather be attacked by one horse sized duck or a dozen duck sized horses?
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Dinbren bulge ;)
Has this been attempted by anyone? A friend of mine bolted it.
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Would you rather be attacked by one horse sized duck or a dozen duck sized horses?
you could kill a duck sized horse in a second, just kick it's face off
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You might end up being overwhelmed if they all rushed you at once.
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You guys are just quackers...
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Dinbren bulge ;)
Has this been attempted by anyone? A friend of mine bolted it.
Was it yourself who bolted the Ivy Roof by any chance? Did your friend work the line at all?
All the Dinbren projects look awesome!
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that thing at boux (bout de monde?)
Bombé bleu? (Le Plage).
That's the badger, thanks paul.
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Dinbren bulge ;)
Has this been attempted by anyone? A friend of mine bolted it.
No I didn't bolt it!!! My mate Dave Body did. Paul Higginson had a quick
Look with me before it was bolted we thought just the move
to get round lip was Brit 7a we never tried wall above looked
hard. This may be heresay but i think Ian Fitzpatrick gave it a go I think after Dave body bolted
it i think he thought it was alot harder than Hubble which he was
working at time!! Dave body gave up climbing after bolting it
and took up raving!! Ps sorry about typo's writing on phone it
won't work properly!!!!!!
Was it yourself who bolted the Ivy Roof by any chance? Did your friend work the line at all?
All the Dinbren projects look awesome!
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[quote author=davej link=topic=21588.msg395188#msg395188
No I didn't bolt it!!! My mate Dave Body did. Paul Higginson had a quick
Look with me before it was bolted we thought just the move
to get round lip was Brit 7a we never tried wall above looked
hard. This may be heresay but i think Ian Fitzpatrick gave it a go I think after Dave body bolted
it i think he thought it was alot harder than Hubble which he was
working at time!! Dave body gave up climbing after bolting it
and took up raving!! Ps sorry about typo's writing on phone it
won't work properly!!!!!!
[/quote]
Thanks for the info Dave, always wondered the history behind the route.
Harder than Hubble?... Jesus!
Anyone know who bolted the Direct Start too Out of Body Experience?
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The comment about it being harder than Hubble could be bollocks I never talked to Ian about it.
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The Bulge is an absolutely awesome line (if it's the one I'm thinking of). There are certainly holds to get to the lip and certainly some poor holds thereafter. When I was going up there with a pal a lot last year, I couldn't believe that no capable person was giving it full attention. It's a king line!
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The Bulge is an absolutely awesome line (if it's the one I'm thinking of). When I was going up there with a pal a lot last year, I couldn't believe that no capable person was giving it full attention. It's a king line!
Are you lot really talking about dinbren containing a 'king line' on a thread which includes mention of something like bombe bleau?? You realise Doyle was taking the piss right?
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I thought the dinbren bulge was in doylo's pants :???:
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The Bulge is an absolutely awesome line (if it's the one I'm thinking of). When I was going up there with a pal a lot last year, I couldn't believe that no capable person was giving it full attention. It's a king line!
Are you lot really talking about dinbren containing a 'king line' on a thread which includes mention of something like bombe bleau?? You realise Doyle was taking the piss right?
Doylo loves the place!
Not a fan of Dinbren Abarro??
The Bulge is an absolutely awesome line (if it's the one I'm thinking of). There are certainly holds to get to the lip and certainly some poor holds thereafter. When I was going up there with a pal a lot last year, I couldn't believe that no capable person was giving it full attention. It's a king line!
As far as I know there's 3 projects there.
One on the left of the big overhanging roof/bulge and one on the right of the same bit of crag. There's also the Direct Start to Out of Body.
The right hand line of the massive roof looks seriously awesome and the headwall looks really blank...!
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The Bulge is an absolutely awesome line (if it's the one I'm thinking of). When I was going up there with a pal a lot last year, I couldn't believe that no capable person was giving it full attention. It's a king line!
Are you lot really talking about dinbren containing a 'king line' on a thread which includes mention of something like bombe bleau?? You realise Doyle was taking the piss right?
'Infamous' projects. As such, it is an extremely good one.
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I thought the dinbren bulge was in doylo's pants :???:
:clap2:
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Some Diamond projs - world class. The Big Crunch- very very good. Dinbren bulge - very good. Doylos hanging rock 9a project- slightly shit
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I thought the dinbren bulge was in doylo's pants :???:
I think that's an infamous projection.
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Some Diamond projs - world class. The Big Crunch- very very good. Dinbren bulge - very good. Doylos hanging rock 9a project- slightly shit
Reckon there's scope for more lines on Detritus Wall? I've never been to it but the routes that are already put up sound amazing!
Edit: Just seen the topo for the wall on DMM's site. Looks like there is tons of potential there!
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Some Diamond projs - world class. The Big Crunch- very very good. Dinbren bulge - very good. Doylos hanging rock 9a project- slightly shit
Reckon there's scope for more lines on Detritus Wall? I've never been to it but the routes that are already put up sound amazing!
Edit: Just seen the topo for the wall on DMM's site. Looks like there is tons of potential there!
Yes. Could be some amazing DWS too perhaps
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http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40304# (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40304#)
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I'm sure Sharma and Ondra will be on the next flight out to lay siege to the Dinbren king line! :lol:
As regards the Brandenburg gate project, I was privileged enough in 2002 to witness the mighty G pull on to this during a morning session at the Tor. He did not appear to be making much headway, although I personally am a fan and believe his ascents :off:
As Hubble is apparently like a warmup in comparison to Brandenburg, one can only surmise that it may contain moves of at least English 7b in difficulty, possibly even English 7c, the jury's out!! 8) If Hubble is E9 7b, could this be E11 7c???
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Smiling Buttress at Curbar?
Presumably the Beastmaker boys have had a look at this at some point?
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Surely the ultimate project would be Pilgrim -> Louie Armstrong -> Clyde? ;)
Starting up the sitter to The Last Stand would make it even better.
I predict Ondra will come and camp out on the Orme as soon as the weather gets better.
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:yes:
Between attempts in the Cave and trips out to Dinbren it looks like his itinerary's pretty full for the Spring. Lets hope there's time for him to fit in some lines abroad. Hopefully whilst dossing in the Cave he'll get around to repeating Gaskin's Pillbox problem, and perhaps work out my proj extension to Trophy Wives on craig pen y gogarth without resorting to using a screw-on hold.
Luke O - Detritus Wall has some king lines (little king, prince perhaps?) but to equip them you need to be more adventurous than the mean and not mind being shat on by Cormorants. They'll make amazing DWS's too.
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Luke O - Detritus Wall has some king lines (little king, prince perhaps?) but to equip them you need to be more adventurous than the mean and not mind being shat on by Cormorants. They'll make amazing DWS's too.
Very impressive and much appreciate you adding the access line and re-equipping the routes Pete! Inspiring stuff, cheers!
Really keen to check out that wall this year!
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Hopefully whilst dossing in the Cave he'll get around to repeating Gaskin's Pillbox problem
I doubt that with all of my being. Probably just carry on bolting arbitrary lines up Spanish limestone fuelling Dosage's takings in the process. ;)
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Nah, I think now he's got a few 9bs under his belt he reckon's he's up for ticking Hubble.
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Hubble's got harder moves though, innit.
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Hubble's got harder moves though, innit.
Should be piss when you've bouldered 8c+ though....
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I'm sure he'd walk it. But who's out there flying the flag for la short short routes though? Moon and Gaskins both did their hardest moves on a rope. Does the progression of these sort of routes still hold any interest for modern super stars, or are the boulder clip-ups now too uninspiring to bother with?
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The first 10 meters of La Dura Dura is 9b/9b+. Isn't that hard enough?
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I seem to recall somewhere in one of the recent interviews with Adam about La Dura Dura that he broke down the sequence into bouldering grades but stated that it was pointless trying to think of it in terms of boulder problems as the difficulty was not in doing them, but in linking them (too lazy to go hunting for the article again)
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not sure if it's considered a project at all but if someone were to climb Masters Edge on the left hand side, would this actually count as a new line a la Archangel/Don or just be a wack way of doing ME?
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johnny did all the moves on top rope one handed didn't he? eng 7a......
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not sure if it's considered a project at all but if someone were to climb Masters Edge on the left hand side, would this actually count as a new line a la Archangel/Don or just be a wack way of doing ME?
P Widdy did it a couple of years back at the same grade, I think?
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johnny did all the moves on top rope one handed didn't he? eng 7a......
yeah thats what brought it to mind
not sure if it's considered a project at all but if someone were to climb Masters Edge on the left hand side, would this actually count as a new line a la Archangel/Don or just be a wack way of doing ME?
P Widdy did it a couple of years back at the same grade, I think?
google doesnt bring up much but I wouldnt be suprised, dressed as herman goering or something
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"Remastered Edge", E7 6c I think. Desperate E7 though.
I think he did it dressed as Masters Edge.
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I seem to recall somewhere in one of the recent interviews with Adam about La Dura Dura that he broke down the sequence into bouldering grades but stated that it was pointless trying to think of it in terms of boulder problems as the difficulty was not in doing them, but in linking them (too lazy to go hunting for the article again)
The first 15 moves, are only about 8 meters of climbing could be 9b/b+ in itself. Big reaches on crimpy holds and underclings that lead into huge span rightwards onto the crimp and dyno from there onto a good hueco. It includes 4 boulderproblems, from bolt to bolt, 4 moves each of them. 7C, 7C, 8A+ and 8A. It is nonsense to grade the section in Font grade, because even if though it is only 15 moves, it climbs like a route. You have to clip, the moves are long, it takes 1 minute and 10 seconds to climb. The moves are quite easy as single moves, put putting it together is a question of power endurance and climbing as efficiently as possible. Everything counts.
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The first 10 meters of La Dura Dura is 9b/9b+. Isn't that hard enough?
It's power endurance, as Ondra says himself. I'm talking about power - the hardest moves possible, rather than the hardest moves you can do fifteen of.
The first 15 moves, are only about 8 meters of climbing could be 9b/b+ in itself. Big reaches on crimpy holds and underclings that lead into huge span rightwards onto the crimp and dyno from there onto a good hueco. It includes 4 boulderproblems, from bolt to bolt, 4 moves each of them. 7C, 7C, 8A+ and 8A. It is nonsense to grade the section in Font grade, because even if though it is only 15 moves, it climbs like a route. You have to clip, the moves are long, it takes 1 minute and 10 seconds to climb. The moves are quite easy as single moves, put putting it together is a question of power endurance and climbing as efficiently as possible. Everything counts.
Obviously the type of short nails routes I was talking about don't appeal to most people who love routes rather than boulder problems, but I wonder why they seem to be even less popular now than they were in the past.
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because now with pads you can go bouldering with less risk to smashing your ankles? Trying a route that essentially boils down to a short boulder problem can be frustrating, certainly I've enjoyed bouldering out the RHS of the tor more than when I've put a rope on for the same routes.
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Obviously the type of short nails routes I was talking about don't appeal to most people who love routes rather than boulder problems, but I wonder why they seem to be even less popular now than they were in the past.
During the Czech international sandstone meeting last year there was an interesting slide-show by a rather opinionated Tomá Sobotka who, among many things, claimed that the hardest moves are going to move back to bolted climbs since sport-climbing is safer than even bouldering with large pads.
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I'll fix the lower off for Il Pirata this weekend then.
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but I wonder why they seem to be even less popular now than they were in the past.
Is it because these type of routes are actually quite shit sport routes? Trundle to hard boulder problem or hard boulder problem to trundle is less likely to be a classic than something with sustained interest and difficulty.
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Noone's mentioned the wave at Lower Montcliffe yet.... ;)
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Obviously the type of short nails routes I was talking about don't appeal to most people who love routes rather than boulder problems, but I wonder why they seem to be even less popular now than they were in the past.
Like Paul and Stubbs says, if you want to do hard moves it's usually way more fun and less faff to go bouldering IMO. As for why they used to be more popular: probably because they accounted for a greater proportion of what had been bolted.
FRFM has an 8b+ boulder at the start doesn't it? Although it's not 'hard' in the sense that getting through that part isn't the meat of the route.
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My original comment was meant to be a joke btw.
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Despite the ducks/horses I LIKED it when we had a secret crag.
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Have had a look both of the dinbren roof projects, the main middle one is an awesome line though though there just doesn't seem to be enough there to get round the lip I'd say maybe font 8c and then some. Would love to see someone strong on it. The left hand line difficulties start after the roof the holds are tiny :shit:
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That main line is awesome. Shame it's so hard