UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: Paul B on April 01, 2016, 10:52:29 am
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A week ago Nat tripped on the path walking out of Slipstones and has sprained her ankle (NNFN), she went over forwards with the big pad adding some momentum to the fall; a quick trip to Harrogate A+E (and very swift service) showed no break or avulsion (phew!). However, we're off to Font next week (first climbing day will be injury + 2 weeks).
Currently she's hobbling around the office but her ankle is quite swollen (and bruised) and she's getting edgy about being able to climb at all when away.
Therefore, instead of recommending glorious, stunning aretes, I was hoping the good people of UKB could furnish me with knowledge of lowball climbing in Fontainebleau? It'll have to mostly be in the 6s.
So far my list consists of:
The Piano
That lowball traverse at 95.2 which has a F7A finish if you desire.
It's the left ankle if that is of any relevance. We've ordered some tape in the hope that the pretty colours of Kinesio might somehow make her feel better.
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Isn't Canche Aux Merciers a bit of a traverse-fest?
Thinking that if you're thinking lowball sideways shuffling will be your best bet.
Otherwise I seem to recall 91.1 having plenty of friendly height stuff.
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Bois Rond is a nice spot for lowballing. Also it's quite concentrated so you don't need to be hobbling between problems too much. Don't underestimate the usefulness of having a crutch if you can take one along, saves the ankle when walking to areas, which can probably be more of a hassle than doing the actual climbs. Drei Zinnen is just next door if you want to get some harder stuff done on the same day.
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I think buthiers is known for it's traverses too, maybe try there.
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Does marriage mean she gets of dose of the infamous PaulB "luck"?
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Does marriage mean she gets of dose of the infamous PaulB "luck"?
Marriage means she's not getting out of spotting and will be assuming dog care duty full time! We haven't actually been given a crutch. I wonder if we should ask my Dad for his swanky walking poles we bought him for Xmas?
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Anything will help. When I knackered my ankle in the US I found that anything was better than nothing. I think I made a crutch out 2 ski poles and some wood and duct tape for the first few days. Walk ins a bit longer than font though, I think walking to Druid Stones was not smart in hindsight.
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Was going to say bois rond too. Flat walk in on good track, not too far as well
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Was going to say bois rond too. Flat walk in on good track, not too far as well
Good. She's going to need to rest from walking up to Cuvier Rempart early morning. Thanks for all of the suggestions for what must constitute the least inspiring ticklist on UKB (or is there a Lancs quarries Top100 somewhere?).
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https://bleau.info/beauvais/circuit129.html
https://bleau.info/beauvais/circuit304.html
Red and black circuit at Beauvais Nainville have lots of low stuff in the low sixes, quick drying too. The spiritual home of the font traverse. Lots of harder traverse stuff too.
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Isn't Canche Aux Merciers a bit of a traverse-fest?
Thinking that if you're thinking lowball sideways shuffling will be your best bet.
Otherwise I seem to recall 91.1 having plenty of friendly height stuff.
Recall 91.1 having awful landings in the most. And it's a bit of a hike in?
Canche certainly has a lot of sit starts to circuit problems, check out the bleau.info page.
Beauvais generally low. Depends on where you're staying though, can be an hour away if you're away down south.
Was going
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Milly-la-Foret
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91.1 has no bad landings as far as I recall. Not much to do beyond the 6s though, the decent ones are a bit high.
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Not much to do beyond the 6s though, the decent ones are a bit high.
That's no a problem, I can elsewhere as and when I need.
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Any serious font lowballer should check out Marc Lehner's FAs.
He's a big specialist of lowballish sitstart gems, check out his bleau.info profile for a list.
The real gem ne "patatovsky", although it is maybe a bit hard (sandbagged 7a)
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91.1 has no bad landings as far as I recall.
Ok, memory playing tricks. Do remember having a battle to get there with a buggy though and the yellows not being suitable, we were forced to beat a swift retreat to Sabot.
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Restant du Long Rocher has a nice lowball blue circuit that starts right next to the car park. I did this one evening sans pad (and i'm a massive wuss) when staying in Bourron Marlotte.
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Any serious font lowballer should check out Marc Lehner's FAs.
He's a big specialist of lowballish sitstart gems, check out his bleau.info profile for a list.
The real gem ne "patatovsky", although it is maybe a bit hard (sandbagged 7a)
Do you know what? I can't think that I've ever seen r-man and Marc in the same room together :-\
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Call me a bore but I wouldn't climb. Play the long game - you don't want a chronic ankle injury by re-spraining an already weakened ankle. So easy to do in Font, I've seen five people on crutches this week and I bet they weren't all done on highballs!
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:agree:
it's only spring, if the ankle gets a secondary injury, with currently poor functioning proprioception.... its gunna get a bit nasty.
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Call me a bore but I wouldn't climb. Play the long game - you don't want a chronic ankle injury by re-spraining an already weakened ankle. So easy to do in Font, I've seen five people on crutches this week and I bet they weren't all done on highballs!
Hang on, wasn't your wife using the works circuit board with a fairly freshly broken bone in her heel? The one without a blood supply?
FYI, I concur wholeheartedly but it's not my ankle and it's easier to say not to climb rather than do so.
She managed a few easy circuit problems at Isatis with some concerned power spotting!
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How about taking a short rope and doing some bigger problems southern sandstone style??
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In the quieter spots obvs..
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In the quieter spots obvs..
Too late.
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She might well have, but that was 9 years ago. More recently I smashed my heel into pieces, which has much more profoundly shaped my view on what is and what isn't worth risking. Anyway sounds like you managed the trip unscathed!
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Unscathed: Day 1 of a two week trip (losing a couple of days each end for traveling)!!!
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Isn't Canche Aux Merciers a bit of a traverse-fest?
CaM was a great recommendation and Nat found this:
https://bleau.info/canche/3636.html
which kept her entertained. For me, it was a little hot (and early mornings were out due to evening rain) but a good holiday was had.
Cheers UKB!