UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Probes on March 05, 2012, 11:04:17 am
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And why is this not front page news, hot topic of the day? :blink:
The X hold (think thats what it gets called) went on sat, and in fine style too, blew into about 10 bits. Obviously now effects Impropa right hand, power pinch 6c version, traverse link ups etc etc making things quite a bit trickier.
:wavecry:
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Surely this is good news? Always seemed like a thorn in the Bowderstone's side.
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The evolution of the 'stone problems continues! God bless that chossy block of awesomeness :bow:
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Woah, i was looking at the cracks in it on wednesday and wondering :-\
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Doyle you fat bastard.
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Went yesterday. Repeated impropa RH (via power pinch) probably goes at hard V9 now. I also did all the moves to get you into the link ups (Lateral into Impropa, lateral into Grand and the link). Doubt it will change the grade but it will probably make them all fairly hard for the grade.
I think it's awesome that holds keep snapping, makes a new problem (or sequence) at least once a year.
btw. bet that hurt whoever snapped it off, it aint a small hold, and it was in many peices
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Went yesterday. Repeated impropa RH (via power pinch) probably goes at hard V9 now. I also did all the moves to get you into the link ups (Lateral into Impropa, lateral into Grand and the link). Doubt it will change the grade but it will probably make them all fairly hard for the grade.
I think it's awesome that holds keep snapping, makes a new problem (or sequence) at least once a year.
btw. bet that hurt whoever snapped it off, it aint a small hold, and it was in many peices
It went as a foot hold so the chap escaped impailment. Made a proper bang when it went, people scuppering for cover...
I was chuffed id never done right hand before always come in from the left.. so it got bagged a few minutes before it was no more.
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The guy who broke it emailed me over the weekend, as Probes says he was stood on it, rather than hanging from it. He seemed quite apologetic... although my sympathies lessened when I saw he is email was something like fatso-b@blah.com ;)
This is something that has been happening to the Stone for years, it's just become more apparent in recent years due to the more in-depth recording of the problems and increased popularity from further a field. Al Wilson once told me he still has the original huge starting jug to Impropa, from back when it was 7a+/b, so it’s certainly not a new thing. Personally, I think few of the original lines are the same problems they were when they were originally climbed by Moffatt and co.
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Doyle you fat bastard.
tis true
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I also have a grwoing collection of broken bowderstone holds in my chalk bucket. Could become an interesting game of jigsaw!
At least with hold X broken, it will mean people will have to do the sit start to grand/impropa properly now :2thumbsup:
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Eh? How does the hold breaking affect the sit start?
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If you did the first move of Grand sit then went to the power pinch rail, then through hold X to climb into grand....... missing the point really!
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Wasn't sure where to put this,figured here was as good a place as any. More hold breakage at the Stone,this time the RH pinch after the letterbox on Phantom Of The Opera. Looks like it'll make Phantom a bit harder,but shouldn't affect Grand or Final Curtain due to the bomber right heel. The Stone evolution continues....