UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: ghisino on May 29, 2016, 09:16:52 pm
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not sure if this has been discussed before.
I'd like to have a double session tomorrow (monday) : project-specific fingerboard work, and an indoor climbing session, light snack + drive in between (1-2 hrs rest?)
knowing that:
- during this particular week i should have 3 to 5 climbing sessions monday to friday.
- i will surely have one boulder sesh, one of "short endurance" chopping hard routes in 10-15 move sections, and one redpointing full (30-40 moves) routes at my limit. All indoors, weather forecast is monsoon.
-the extra sessions will consist of a few routes at a "manageable pump" level.
in your opinion, which of my prioritary climbing sessions should i couple with the fingerboarding one, and in what order?
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Never done it but skin must me an issue to people new to it...
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Watch how long you drive. I sometimes end up driving 2-3 hours immediately after a session and it's not a great environment within which to stretch out...
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I would include it with Boulder session if only because you're going to be on the wall a much shorter length of time compared to routes. Ie if you do a good fb sesh your forearms will feel it, I wouldn't like to do 30 moves on them forearms later on.
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Watch how long you drive
20-25 mins if i drive around lunch time, regardless of the chosen gym, among 10 possible choices. I think i live in the best possible location for indoor climbing in France ;D
(sadly, not for outdoors :(. and can be up to 1h20 mins in the morning/evening if i get the timing wrong)
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I would include it with Boulder session if only because you're going to be on the wall a much shorter length of time compared to routes. Ie if you do a good fb sesh your forearms will feel it, I wouldn't like to do 30 moves on them forearms later on.
that was more or less what i was thinking myself, although it was more about holds/routesetting/problem choice.
boulder gyms around paris, coupled with the problems i tend to choose, will offer a less fingery experience than lead (routes invariably feature some crimping and squeezing...a "volume/gigahold-only route" will never happen for financial reasons!!!)
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I used to boulder at lunchtime and then do routes in the evening and that worked OK. Skin is usually the deciding limitation.
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If the double session has to be today and you only climb mon-fri then I'd suggest the following week:
Mon: fingerboard then boulder
Tuesday: short enduro then manageable pump:
Wed: rest
Thursday: short (session length not problem length) boulder or fingerboard (like an extended warmup) then redpoint route
Fri: short (session) boulder then manageable pump