UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: BicepsMou on May 13, 2016, 09:36:12 am
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http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/antihydral-skin-doping-for-climbers/
Very good article about Antihydral, the cream that prevents sweaty fingertips.
I can fully subscribe to the pros and cons listed there, especially to be really careful about the how much and how often to apply it.
Application really has to be adapted to each individual skin type and one needs to do a fair amount of experimenting way BEFORE a road trip or other important goal is coming up.
Has worked very well for me on numerous occasions, even as a prep for a road trip to Petrohrad, which has some of the most aggressive rock I've come across so far.
Most people on here are probably aware of it, but wanted to share that link (as found on 8a).
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Jesus, if I ever put on the amount in the photos on that link then my entire pad would detach the moment I latched anything incut openhanded.
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I thought that looked about right for what I use.
A small pea sized blob on each finger of one hand, and then spread it with the opposing finger so that both have a thin layer on them.
My tips have never fallen off after this procedure.
YMMV
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Jesus, if I ever put on the amount in the photos on that link then my entire pad would detach the moment I latched anything incut openhanded.
+1
I need to put on much less on a smaller area on the finger tips. And have to be really careful about staying well away from the area around the nails / especially under the nails as well as from the skin fold btw first and second pad. Otherwise splits are preprogrammed for me.
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+2
I use hardly any. A tube lasts me and Mrs Rodma about 5 years
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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Think that's a standard quantity for someone with very wet skin. I know Haydn uses a shit load, I met a German who used to smear that much over her entire hand every day! Dirty bugger..
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Yeah it really depends on what the resting sweaty state of your skin is as to how much you put on.
I've found that just applying to the palm of the hand can reduce sweating at the fingertips, or at least how much moisture accumulates there.
Also make sure you drink enough water - I've found staying hydrated so that i'm peeing every 30 mins massively reduces the amount of splits I get.
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will antihydral build rhino skin on any part of the hand?
i was wondering if it may be an alternative to tape gloves for crack climbing on smoother rock types...
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hmm, i'm not sure. Part of the appeal for me is that it reduces sensitivity on the tips (probably by drying and therefore thickening the skin a bit).
So it might help, but the back of the hand doesn't really sweat much anyway.
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i was wondering if it may be an alternative to tape gloves for crack climbing on smoother rock types...
I don't thin so. Anywhere where you grow enough skin to stop hurting in cracks will split really easily. And sharp rock will still rip your skin.
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i was wondering if it may be an alternative to tape gloves for crack climbing on smoother rock types...
I don't thin so.
I don't thick so either.
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I've been using that rhino skin solutions gear Ted brought back from smith with him, it's working wonders for me. My hands hardly sweat at all anymore apart from after a very long session and no cracking.
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I don't thin so.
I don't thick so either.
Don't let me come over there and start correcting your Italian spelling. It could happen.
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I don't thin so.
I don't thick so either.
Don't let me come over there and start correcting your Italian spelling. It could happen.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Ahahahahaha I thought it was made on purpose!!!
I found it brilliant!
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I could have claimed it was on purpose, but maybe it was a subliminal slip!
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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i was wondering if it may be an alternative to tape gloves for crack climbing on smoother rock types...
I don't thin so. Anywhere where you grow enough skin to stop hurting in cracks will split really easily. And sharp rock will still rip your skin.
the problem for me is not really pain, it's skin consumption.
I can easily tolerate jamming without gloves pretty well, at least if the grain isn't too coarse...but i'll still trash the back of my hand in two pitches.
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I could have claimed it was on purpose, but maybe it was a subcutaneous slip!
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Well that's what I'm doing wrong. I put probably half to 1/3 that amount on - if I put it on the night before I feel slightly less sweaty the next day (but never "dry"). If I put it on before driving to the crag, I just sweat through it.
Time to try to make one of my several tubes last less than 5 years....
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Fiend, on the rare occasions I use it (generally 3 days into a Font trip etc) I find that if you put it on before bed then the next day pads will be noticeably harder, but also the day after that they continue to get hard with a kind of delayed response. So I would recommend on a roadtrip kinda anticipating the need for it and putting it on a day early.
Wouldn't ever put it on during the day as you're just going to wear most of it off by handing things. Plus you might forget, have a wank, and accidentally fossilize your dick.
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Wouldn't ever put it on during the day as you're just going to wear most of it off by handing things.
I once climbed with someone who set off on a route with antihydral still on their fingers. "Really greasy today!" :lol: