UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Fultonius on April 26, 2016, 07:16:15 pm
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Ok folks,
As I said on YYFY - I've just been told my knee pain is not serious (nothing on MRI). He thinks iIve overused/strained my gastorcnemius. This is a new one to me - anyone else come across this?
Basically, it started 1.5 years ago, the day after a hard boulder session with a big left foot heel-hook. Nothing seemed to "pop" at the time, but the next day it was stiff and sore, subsided over the next 5 days.
The next month I did nothing bar a few surf sessions and some touristing around Indonesia. Then I did a trad route at Mt Arapiles in Australia with another heel hook and it was quite tender the next day.
The next 3 weeks I climbed a fair bit in Yangshuo and any heel hools and "pullling in" on toes were painful....I persevered.
Fast forward a winter of skiing and a summer of various sport and trad climbing, but not too much bother...
Now it is still painfull when really using my heel - especially on heel-hooks that are more "heel drags" - i.e. with a slight bend, maybe 20-35* I can often feel it pulling at the time, so I usually avoid.
The other time I notice it is doing bent leg stretches....imagine touching your toes but with your knees flexed 5 degrees.
The surgeon just said "find a climbing physio". :shrug:
Any thoughts?
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The surgeon just said "find a climbing physio". :shrug:
Any thoughts?
where are you feeling the pain exactly, and is it as you say a 'pulling' type of pain? its pretty hard to say without properly assessing it. Sounds like a slightly unusual / dubious diagnosis to me.
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They don't call it a gap year for nothing :punk:
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The surgeon just said "find a climbing physio". :shrug:
Any thoughts?
where are you feeling the pain exactly, and is it as you say a 'pulling' type of pain? its pretty hard to say without properly assessing it. Sounds like a slightly unusual / dubious diagnosis to me.
Hi Toby - somehow completely missed your reply. The pain is just inside the outer hamstring tendon - at the back of the knee in the soft squidgy bit.
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When I think of heel hooks gone wrong, I usually think of the meniscus and popliteus:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Popliteus_muscle
"Popliteus is also attached to the lateral meniscus in the knee; and draws it posteriorly during knee flexion to prevent crushing the meniscus between the tibia and femur as the knee flexes."
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Sounds more likely. Really fucked off with not actually getting the surgeon I had specifically requested (the one who knows hit shit and did a great job on my right knee op).
In fact, Dr Death...I think you possibly shared a room at uni with the guy I actually saw instead of Mr Walker. Forgotten his name now though.
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Quite feasible it could be your gastrocnemius as it flexes the knee and plantar flexors the foot. With heel hooking both joints will be doing just that - hence the gastrocs will be under significant load.
If not done so already why don't you take the consultants advice and see a good physio?
Chronic tendon injury that needs to go through a suitable rehab protocol?
http://semrc.blogs.latrobe.edu.au/10-things-not-to-do-if-you-have-lower-limb-tendon-pain/
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I only had the appointment on Tuesday so not got round to seeing a physio yet. I'll try and book one next week.