UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Greg C on June 05, 2006, 10:56:50 am
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From the start of May but this looks looks like it could be a (hardcore) classic...
(http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/photos/kong2.jpg)
May 9th 2006:
Another modern classic added to Queen's Crag: Today Dan Varian raided from the West to grab the first ascent of Queen Kong, Font 8a. This takes the impressive prow to the right of Worldline.
Source: http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/new.html
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Does it go all the way to the top? If so, loks a lot more like a route than a problem, serious deck potential.
Sweet line and fine effort mind.
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:jaw: Wow, that's got to be the best looking new problem i've seen in ages (even with the strange photoshopping)! That Wordline thing looks amazing too, how hard is that? Where exactly is Queen's Crag anyway, looks like Wainstones/Scugdale style sandstone to me?
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http://www.climbonline.co.uk/queens_crag.htm (http://www.climbonline.co.uk/queens_crag.htm)
I asked myself the same question half an hour ago.
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Cheers Chris.
Due west of Newcastle, just North of Hadrians wall. Could make a great bouldering weekender if combined with something like Goldsborough I reckon.
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Does it go all the way to the top?
I asked the same question and was told "Of course it does -- this isn't the peak, you know!"
Top venue. Nice and quiet, too (shh...)
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Cheeky bastards, esspecially when you consider where most of the problems finish at Kyloe, Bowden, Back bowden.... :spank:
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I asked the same question and was told "Of course it does -- this isn't the peak, you know!"
Top venue. Nice and quiet, too (shh...)
:bow: sweet in that case. I suspected it would, was just wondering as the very chalked holds disappear above where he is.
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Cheeky bastards, esspecially when you consider where most of the problems finish at Kyloe, Bowden, Back bowden.... :spank:
Ah, but Kong was done by a Cumbrian, you see. We mountain dwellers have a different view on the summit experience from you lowlanders :P Why, just the other day when I was up on t' Napes Needle with my sheep...
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Cheeky bastards, esspecially when you consider where most of the problems finish at Kyloe, Bowden, Back bowden.... :spank:
Ah, but Kong was done by a Cumbrian, you see. We mountain dwellers have a different view on the summit experience from you lowlanders :P Why, just the other day when I was up on t' Napes Needle with my sheep...
Tim you're starting to sound like Si O. ;)
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Oh, fuck :(
But I haven't climbed V11 blindfold, redpointed V15 & f8c+, head-pointed E9, & just pointed at things randomly, standing in a field...
I haven't soloed f8c & climbed E7 one-handed, un-roped. I wasn't the one who came very close on L'Alchimist at Apremont, after the hold broke, either...
Not :guilty:
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Cheeky bastards, esspecially when you consider where most of the problems finish at Kyloe, Bowden, Back bowden.... :spank:
Ah, but Kong was done by a Cumbrian, you see. We mountain dwellers have a different view on the summit experience from you lowlanders :P Why, just the other day when I was up on t' Napes Needle with my sheep...
Tim you're starting to sound like Si O. ;)
speaking of Si'O, has he been on the case with the sky in that photo. Subtle dude subtle.
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Its quite horrible. Such a nice pic in all other ways too, problem looks awesome, the guy climbing looks like he's having fun, the pictures is pretty damn good - why mutilate it so?
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That Wordline thing looks amazing too
1001% with you on this one Bonjoy.
Outrageously pretty.
It's shot straight in @ no. 1 on Arete Quest!
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Its quite horrible.
I kinda like it. Looks otherworldly, with the sun an older star.
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This problem is even better than it looks, a real good effort from Daniel Son! I keep on telling him he should stick to Armathwaite but he insists on finding more and more amazing new lines! Good effort lad, big up the Carlisle massif, charva!! ;)
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http://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=118177958
http://www.ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=118177953
the photoshop mutilated photo was a joke between friends,
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You have to have an email login and password to access those links.
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http://www.ringo.com/explore/tags/photo.html?photoId=118177953&tag=queenkong
http://www.ringo.com/explore/tags/photo.html?photoId=118177958&tag=queenkong
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Ahhhh, those RINGO links are not safe for work, as I just found out (not the climbing pictures, but some that come up in the 'other photos' section)
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Some amazing looking problems in that neck of the woods.
Reckon this is worth keeping an eye on:
http://www.the-county.com/preview.htm
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I've seen pics of Guardian Angel in the guidebook. It's one of those routes that gives you willies just looking at it. What's it like?
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Queen Kong sit start success. Chris Graham has added a desperate sit start the Dan Varian's awesome highball Queen Kong at Queens Crag in Northumberland "I've completed the Queen Kong Sit Start in the cool shade of Queen's Crag. I'm giving it a very very tentative 8a+ (V12) although I think (the grades of) both the stand up and sitter require confirmation. The sit start adds about 5 more quality moves to the problem taking the total length to 20+ sustained moves - absolutely exhausting. On reaching the highball moves my legs were jelly and I had the best part of an asthma attack once I'd topped out!" Chris Graham. More pictures of Queens Crag on Northumberlandbouldering.co.uk. Reported 22nd July 2006
(http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/photos/queens_kongss.JPG)
Chris Graham making the first ascent of the sit start to Queen Kong V12
And in July! This place looks like a great summer venue, Northerly and north facing
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Some amazing looking problems in that neck of the woods.
Reckon this is worth keeping an eye on:
http://www.the-county.com/preview.htm
Unfortunately it's been "iminent" for ages. I remember being told it was near to completion whilst buying some rock shoes in Wildtrack before a Feb 2005 trip to font! Still from what I saw of the footage that day (bouldering and trad) it may well justify the wait (possibly previously unseen footage of the Earl on Dark Half and the Prow etc?). I get the feeling that they just can't stop shooting new stuff - saw them over winter at Kyloe trying to get some more Earl action on Lothlorian / Leviathon etc.
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Sadly no sound, but here's Andy Earl doing Queen Kong:
http://www.andrewearl.co.uk/video%20clips/Northumberland/Queens%20Crag%20-%20Queen%20Kong.m1v
Seems like there's been a fair bit of acitivity at this crag:
Sept 13th: And more...Dan Varian reports that he has completed the arete project on the rabbitstone at Queens. Dan declined to give the problem, now named Red Dragon, a grade.
Sept 10th: More new problems at Queen's...Dan Varian reports that he has sent the grooved crackline above the rabbitstone, Dan called it "The Queen is Dead" and has given it Fb7a standing and 7a+ sitting although it may deserve an E grade. Meanwhile, back in August, Chris Graham finally completed the pen wall project after 6 days of stroking the hold on the crux. "S.L.O.T." goes at Fb7c+ (photo here).
(http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/photos/queens_reddragon.JPG)
Red Dragon
(No grade given, assume it's an 8?)
http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/queens_reddragon.htm
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Pretty sure it wont be an 8. There are a lot of big holds on this thing. But I didnt put my boots on to try it so could be wrong?
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But I didnt put my boots on to try it so could be wrong?
How come? Did you not rate the venue?
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Red Dragon eh? Is he Welsh? 'Spect to the man - that's one beautiful proud line - it amazes me that lines like that are (were) still up for the taking in the UK.
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Apparently some tall strong geordie hasn't managed Red Dragon yet so it must be fair hard. Dan (who has now moved to Sheff) reckoned it was significantly trickier than Queen Kong.
I think Keenus means he didn't boot up for that particular problem. But I'm not his spokesman, honestly.
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Well I am, and he says he is better than you all and that you smell of wee.
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he is better than you all and that you smell of wee.
Hardly cutting edge reporting, although I think my BO partially masks the dried urine smell.
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I tried red dragon briefly before sacking it in for the day, didnt get too far to be honest but there seemed to be a lot of reasonable ish crimps on the rhs and a big crack only 2ft away from the arete on the left, it seemed like you needed to turn from the rhs to the left after a little way, all of which james did in his trainers to show me how bad my footwork really is. Obviously I cant really add much to the grade question but I have a sneeking suspicion this may be one of those problems where theres a knack to it.
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Agreed Paul. I ain't a super strong climber but got to that point where you shift from right to left on the arete. Didn't get much further than that though, but didn't feel ridiculous. I was trying it at the end of the day as well. Knacky could be the way on it.
Red Dragon eh? Is he Welsh? 'Spect to the man - that's one beautiful proud line - it amazes me that lines like that are (were) still up for the taking in the UK.
Mint problem and line.
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yeah, its at the far end of the crag so by the time you've done worldline, then flailed on kong you're screwed. Oh and beware easy looking walls that turn out to be projects with crazy dyno's on them.
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Some amazing looking problems in that neck of the woods.
Reckon this is worth keeping an eye on:
http://www.the-county.com/preview.htm
Unfortunately it's been "iminent" for ages. I remember being told it was near to completion whilst buying some rock shoes in Wildtrack before a Feb 2005 trip to font! Still from what I saw of the footage that day (bouldering and trad) it may well justify the wait (possibly previously unseen footage of the Earl on Dark Half and the Prow etc?). I get the feeling that they just can't stop shooting new stuff - saw them over winter at Kyloe trying to get some more Earl action on Lothlorian / Leviathon etc.
Yeah, I just noticed they are boasting footage of the first ascent of Caterpult, among others. Caterpult was done in 2002, so it's been in production at least 4 years!
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Sadly no sound, but here's Andy Earl doing Queen Kong:
http://www.andrewearl.co.uk/video%20clips/Northumberland/Queens%20Crag%20-%20Queen%20Kong.m1v
its like a miniature version of the alliance.
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yeah i'm not sure about the grade of this red dragon problem either. didn't get anywhere near flashing it, but think i got the crux in a day. plus that varian guy looks a bit queer, and think in was actually talking to him afterwards, tbh he came across as a bit of a bullshitter. might go up tomorrow and see if i can get the 2nd ascent of a somewhat diminutive looking problem.
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:lol: :lol: :lol:
this is why i love ukb. controversy.
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yeah i'm not sure about the grade of this red dragon problem either. didn't get anywhere near flashing it, but think i got the crux in a day. plus that varian guy looks a bit queer, and think in was actually talking to him afterwards, tbh he came across as a bit of a bullshitter. might go up tomorrow and see if i can get the 2nd ascent of a somewhat diminutive looking problem.
Not sure who you may be Skyscrpaer, but I've only met Dan a few times, and he isn't a bullshitter or queer. He's a strong fella, and I reckon you should get your facts right before saying stuff like you have. Fair do's if you know him and your having a laugh, but otherwise......... piss off homo!! ;)
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believe he has moved to sheffield too. I think the comments above are a little harsh...after all queen kong is a quality problem and the grade seems to have stuck.
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Well he is wearing a vest in that photo. No right-thinking man climbs in a vest, hence I concur with the assessment of queer or liar.
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I heard he's infact a silverfish dressed as a man and his eyes are made of felt-tip pens!
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believe he has moved to sheffield too.
Bloody hell! I know the Lakes is wet, but you'd think it were a sinking ship with the rate people move away.
:please: No more ship jumpers.
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Leaves more space for us stopping here!!!!! :thumbsup:
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your welcome to it ;D
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Haha!!!
Your only saying that coz the styan spanked yo ass!!!!!
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yeah i'm not sure about the grade of this red dragon problem either. didn't get anywhere near flashing it, but think i got the crux in a day. plus that varian guy looks a bit queer, and think in was actually talking to him afterwards, tbh he came across as a bit of a bullshitter. might go up tomorrow and see if i can get the 2nd ascent of a somewhat diminutive looking problem.
hope you're someone dan knows, and you're taking the piss a bit. but if not where do you get off being so offensive?
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i got off on it, genius post. if you do know him it's funny and if you don't know him it's even funnier
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:agree:
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And he definately is queer. I hung out with him at Rubicon on Saturday and he kept trying to bum me and everything.
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Did he try to draw flowers on you with his eyes?
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Unfortunately he used indelible marker. I feel I shall be soiled for some time yet.
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I climbed in a vest once but i'm gay so thats alright.
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does it effect your sexuality if you wear a vest in the gym. :shrug:
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What about in the vestibule, or the vestry?
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is a black vest with jolly roger emblem ok?
i bought it at carnaby street in the early eighties...
punk not dead.
edit: found this. sorry for poor quality, is taken from a vid.
sandstonegayness
(http://forums.climbing.com/photopost/data/506/jollyroger.jpg)
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Nibile - you are italian. THe rules concerning the use of vests in italy are totally different. You can probably get away with it on home soil, but be warned, should you visit the UK you will be marked out as a homosexual on arriving.
As a seasoned BBC competitor I have a vested interest in vests. All competitors must wear a homo vest throughout the competition.
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What's wrong with vests? They're 'armless.
Sorry. :guilty:
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i find they high light my hairy shoulders.one of my finer attributes.