UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Charlton Chestwig on September 21, 2011, 12:18:55 pm
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Hoping to get more into bouldering over the coming months and I'm looking for problems to try that will test/train my basic strength rather than ability not to get pumped or smear etc...
So if you have suggestions for good problems from V8 to V11 that are cruxy, not conditions dependant and the fun side of vertical I would be pleased to hear them.
To kick it off I was thinking Zoo York would fit the bit as I imagine that it requires a fair bit of basic pulling to get up it.
Location wise, I'm in Hudds so yorks, peak and perhaps north wales & the lakes are possibilities.
Cheers for any help you can give.
A recovering cord dragger.
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The grouch and crimpy wall at Brimham Rocks.
Silver Trout (without the block for your feet) at Almscliff is cruxy (i.e. 1 move) but not especially inspiring.
The two problems up the overhanging face of the Virgin boulder at Almscliff, one with, one without the crimp.
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Lakes: Killer Bee (St bees South), Slapstick eliminate, Inaudible Vaudeville, Impropa & Grand Opera (bowderstone)
S Lakes: Vitruvian Man & Pit Problem SS (Trowbarrow), Screaming Slave RH & LH & Art of Self Destruction (Woodwell)
N Wales: Beaver Cleaver Direct (Parisellas), Jack Daniels Connection (Pill Box), Tusk (Elephantitus), The Sting (Pass), Lizard King(Pass), Papa Big Punch (Angel Bay), Harvey Oswald SS (milestone), Animal Magnetism (Caseg Fraith)
Yorks: Cherry Falls RH (Cliff), Blockbuster (Caley), Titfield Thunderbolt (Brimham)
Mainly in the lower end of your requested grade range but all have at least 1 tricky move.
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I wouldn't bother with the screaming slaves :shit:
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I wouldn't bother with the screaming slaves :shit:
:agree: , I would avoid woodwell altogether unless you are in the area and bored.
The thing at cragx.
I always find Caley a bit hard work at this time of year, the bracken is high and it tends to be quite humid so you may be best going to some of the more exposed grit crags first i.e. earl (underworld, andy browns wall, lager lager etc all classic)
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The grouch involves endurance imho as most of the moves are a similar difficulty.zoo York is pretty much the same.
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Grouch and Crimpy Wall would take you about 5 minutes, good problems though. Pounce and Ponce (just to the right of Grouch) are harder, not sure whether I'd call them cruxy though.
How about Underhand and Matt's Roof at Almscliff, Andy Brown's and Underpants at Earl, Ringpiece at Ilkley, a couple of the roofy things at Whitehouses?
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I thought Special K looks really good although I can't comment on how Cruxy it is or what grade it settled out at.
Jerrys, Sheep Pen
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I thought Special K looks really good although I can't comment on how Cruxy it is or what grade it settled out at.
font 7c i think its settled at. Not cruxy at all really. Just quite a few steady moves.
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The Keel?
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If your in hudds and want something closer to home for a quick session what about is the whack at buckstones think its 7C/+ one move wonder.
nik at work talks about it here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg224446.html#msg224446 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg224446.html#msg224446)
Online topo:
http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/buckstones_below_topo (http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/buckstones_below_topo)
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jason's roof?
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crookrise? It is kind of power endurance-y more than anything
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Hunter's Stones has a great selection of short, hard problems at a good range of grades, especially on the X-wall. (It also has a few longer problems and Hunter's Roof is a must!)
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/hunters.html (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/hunters.html)
Norwood also has a few short sharp shocks to do, Falcon and Falcon Pro (which are below the grade you asked for, but still good) and the excellent Caspar's Start and Pi R Squared (and its extension start Archimedes which doesn't add much in terms of difficulty but adds a lot of very good moves). Plus Larchbow is excellent too.
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/norwood.html (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/norwood.html)
Archimedes, 7c+, Norwood (http://vimeo.com/20764009)
As has been mentioned, the 'cliff is a perennial problem paradise with some excellent short'n'ard problems such as the Keel (and its variations), Matt's Roof, Stu's Roof, Demon Wall left, Canine, Buffy wants Daddy, Stretch Armstrong, Silver Trout, Steve's Wall, etc. etc. Caley too is a classic venue with Blockbuster, Secret Seventh, Juju Club, Guacamole, The Drey and of course Zoo York.
Any more? I've not even mentioned a billionth of the potential in Yorkshire yet.
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I've told you a million times not to exaggerate.
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You're right, the actual figure is 1/1*10^8.
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Whithouses. Crazy legs crome will get ya pulling.
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Cripes, that lot should keep me going for a bit!
Cheers guys.