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the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Rocksteady on May 27, 2015, 10:57:40 am

Title: Levitation by Proxy - The Cuttings, Portland
Post by: Rocksteady on May 27, 2015, 10:57:40 am: This is supposed to be 6c. I've climbed 7b at the Cuttings this year, and have been working on several of the harder climbs (and have climbed nearly all the easier ones at the crag), but on this climb there was a move I couldn't do.

Obvious crux section moving off the ledge. Right hand crack where you can get half a pad in on three or four fingers. Left hand - where? We found an extremely thin crimp for the left hand that would have made the climb possible - but seemed a seriously hard move, more akin to the crux on a 7b+ or 7c? And a bit of broken rock next to it. If that broken rock had been a left hand hold I could imagine a bridging sequence to get the flat dusty jugs just above. As it was both me and my climbing partner (who's pretty close to doing Fighting Torque at 8a just along the crag) were stumped and fell. Then we spent ages trying to work out what to do - and simply couldn't work it out.

Has a hold come off? Or was the 'extremely technical' crux move just that, and we were being muppets and just couldn't see the move?

Any beta appreciated, just found this route a bit frustrating!
Title: Re: Levitation by Proxy - The Cuttings, Portland
Post by: Three Nine on May 27, 2015, 11:03:23 am: Fighting Torque is 7c+. Just sayin.
Title: Re: Levitation by Proxy - The Cuttings, Portland
Post by: Rocksteady on May 27, 2015, 11:22:35 am: That's funny because I hear that quite a lot but have never actually met anyone who's done it who thought that. There used to be a way of doing it by taking the groove that was a bit easier, but a hold broke there so that method doesn't really go any more. The direct way up the bulge feels pretty stern to me.

Having said that, what do I know, I can't climb a 6c at the same crag!
Title: Re: Levitation by Proxy - The Cuttings, Portland
Post by: Three Nine on May 27, 2015, 11:56:15 am: It was my first 7c+, i climbed it direct, and im not messin up my logbook changing it for you.
Title: Re: Levitation by Proxy - The Cuttings, Portland
Post by: Ally Smith on May 27, 2015, 12:00:22 pm: Quote from: Three Nine on May 27, 2015, 11:03:23 am
Fighting Torque is 7c+. Just sayin.

Fighting Torque has lost holds. Just sayin.
Title: Re: Levitation by Proxy - The Cuttings, Portland
Post by: Three Nine on May 27, 2015, 01:03:25 pm: lies
Title: Re: Levitation by Proxy - The Cuttings, Portland
Post by: Rocksteady on May 27, 2015, 05:06:04 pm: Is off topic on first reply a record in a beta thread?
Title: Re: Levitation by Proxy - The Cuttings, Portland
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2015, 05:26:34 pm: No, a record is a flat black thing with a hole in the middle.
Title: Re: Levitation by Proxy - The Cuttings, Portland
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 27, 2015, 11:06:21 pm: Quote from: SA Chris on May 27, 2015, 05:26:34 pm
No, a record is a flat black thing with a hole in the middle.
That's racist!

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