UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: grimer on January 15, 2024, 11:34:49 am
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Crispin Waddy is at the shotholes as we speak. Unfortunately someone has borrowed the special gear from Outside and he can't get anything in.
If anyone has the required gear can you phone him now?
07989563032
x
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Just put this underneath and tell him it’s a DWS; he’ll path it.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71MVe7D1qDL.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg)
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:lol:
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Not using my white Alien at the moment, think that fits. If he can hang out at the shotholes a bit longer, you could get it ubered it to the crag. £300 from London. Otherwise, I hear knotted ropes are all the rage these days.
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Does he also require a headtorch?
Arkle used my Metolius cam which held his fall nicely. Available in return for a month's subscription to Grimer's Patreon OnlyFans.
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Backwards hex shurely?
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Green Totem fits.
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Grimer's Patreon OnlyFans.
The real Jam Crack.
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I'm happy enough with the gear I have for the shot holes, its the ballnut that protects the moves to them that i could have done with. (there's a joke in there somewhere). I guess i was hoping that someone on here would either have it or know someone that's keen to try it at the moment.
Perfect conditions today.....
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I was wondering how you got on. I happened to walk past with my dog as you were on it. Good effort getting on the rope today. My fingers were frozen just looking at you guys.
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I'm happy enough with the gear I have for the shot holes, its the ballnut that protects the moves to them that i could have done with. (there's a joke in there somewhere). I guess i was hoping that someone on here would either have it or know someone that's keen to try it at the moment.
Perfect conditions today.....
Does that mean you did it? :bounce:
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I intitially misunderstood the gear he needed. I thought it was the shothole grear. But apparently there’s a little slider thing before that. This is the great needed.
Outside shop lend it out to Masters wannabes but it has been out on loan for a while, missing in inaction.
I think crispin was implying that if he had it he could have done it. Or tried it.
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Is it a particular modified slider/ball nut? I have a random ball nut you’re welcome to try for size.
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This is the piece
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53467953035_602383543e_c.jpg)
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Whats all this ball nut nonsense. Few pads and a knee trembler reaching the shot holes.
There definitely wasn't a placement there c2000. Back then, I did notice one of the tiny old aid bolt holes (approx 6mm diameter) appeared to have been modified (hard to explain, but it looked like another smaller hole had been created at a 45deg angle up into the original 6mm hole) in an attempt to make it accept an RP or something, but it was kind of RP2 sized.
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looks like one of these would fit..
(https://www.bfgcdn.com/1500_1500_90/352-0160-0111/petzl-pulse-removable-anchor-bolt.jpg)
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Whats all this ball nut nonsense. Few pads and a knee trembler reaching the shot holes.
There definitely wasn't a placement there c2000.
A large piece of rock came away before the shot holes a few years ago. Maybe that created the placement
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looks like one of these would fit..
(https://www.bfgcdn.com/1500_1500_90/352-0160-0111/petzl-pulse-removable-anchor-bolt.jpg)
I’ve got one of those if you want to borrow it..
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Whats all this ball nut nonsense. Few pads and a knee trembler reaching the shot holes.
There definitely wasn't a placement there c2000. Back then, I did notice one of the tiny old aid bolt holes (approx 6mm diameter) appeared to have been modified (hard to explain, but it looked like another smaller hole had been created at a 45deg angle up into the original 6mm hole) in an attempt to make it accept an RP or something, but it was kind of RP2 sized.
I think I bouldered up to the shotholes years ago when I was shit. Am I misremembering? Or has the large piece of rock thats come away made it much harder?
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Dunno
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Getting to the shotholes isn’t really bouldering. Maybe you mean Edge lane
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Yeah, I def bouldered on both of them but prob only got to the shot holes on edge lane.
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The placement is lower than the rock scar. Wouldn't be surprised if it's been there all along.
(https://img.ukclimbing.com/i/416863?fm=jpg&time=1699981233&s=ce52609deb82da08abdd31054b1529bd)
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I've asked Caminati (I'm sure he'll say hi when he gets round to replying) as I had the dubious honour of belaying his flash ascent. He definitely owned a few sliders/ball nuts as I can remember a photo I took of one he used on Braille Trail (it was red).
I can't really remember if he used any gear below the shotholes only that we'd slung the nearby boulder on the floor so I could leg it and effectively take rope in.
Surely the person/people to ask on this are Tom R / P Widdy given they've lapped it dressed as bananas and other things?
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Yeah, I def bouldered on both of them but prob only got to the shot holes on edge lane.
A friend of mine broke their leg jumping off from below the shot holes on to a pad i.e. not a weird landing. I think it'd be pretty memorable if you had gotten up there.
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I stand corrected!
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The placement is lower than the rock scar. Wouldn't be surprised if it's been there all along.
I'm sure its been there since the 50s.. since its using a drilled hole from an old aid bolt.. IIRC.. there might be 3 or 4 holes in a row. (rather similar I expect to the Adam Smiths ones??)
I was joking about the petzl pulse as I suspect the old bolt holes are smaller than 8mm (1/4 inch??) and will certainly be too shallow in depth.. but it would be hilarious if you could fit one in.. or better still 3 or 4. :lol:
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Has anyone fall tested the ball nut thing??
It would be interesting to see the outcome of falling expecting to be held on a rope, have it rip and dump you. As opposed to a more controlled fall/jump onto mats.
Nice confidence piece though.
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Surely the person/people to ask on this are Tom R / P Widdy given they've lapped it dressed as bananas and other things?
Paul- I posted a pic above of the piece that Outside loan out. I used it 3yrs ago. Not sure what brand it is.
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Has anyone fall tested the ball nut thing??
Nice confidence piece though.
It seems pretty good and you can put it in whilst stood on the big hold on the arête. Not sure I’d want to test it but I reckon it would definitely slow you down.
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Paul- I posted a pic above of the piece that Outside loan out. I used it 3yrs ago. Not sure what brand it is.
Missed that!
It's one of those removable aid bolts which (again, from memory) someone got stuck in ME at one point?
Looks like Climb Tech:
https://www.ropeaccessequip.com/products/climb-tech-removable-bolt
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Yeah, I def bouldered on both of them but prob only got to the shot holes on edge lane.
A friend of mine broke their leg jumping off from below the shot holes on to a pad i.e. not a weird landing. I think it'd be pretty memorable if you had gotten up there.
I think I have a video of this.
The move to shotholes feels a little bit go-ey if you on the shorter side. Go-ey enough to put me off attempting it at that height. Go-ey enough to break a leg if you come off not fully in control.
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I've asked Caminati (I'm sure he'll say hi when he gets round to replying) as I had the dubious honour of belaying his flash ascent. He definitely owned a few sliders/ball nuts as I can remember a photo I took of one he used on Braille Trail (it was red).
Fired up the old hard drive to look and I've got an early shot of him starting up on the arete and all that's hanging on his harness is a large nut and a tricam (blue). I've just zoomed in on the gear higher up to see that the lovely lightweight biner gates are both touching :sick:
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I've asked Caminati (I'm sure he'll say hi when he gets round to replying) as I had the dubious honour of belaying his flash ascent. He definitely owned a few sliders/ball nuts as I can remember a photo I took of one he used on Braille Trail (it was red).
Fired up the old hard drive to look and I've got an early shot of him starting up on the arete and all that's hanging on his harness is a large nut and a tricam (blue). I've just zoomed in on the gear higher up to see that the lovely lightweight biner gates are both touching :sick:
Seems to be a route for gear sketchiness. I accidentally lead it on a single half rope. Missed the top jug and caught a sloper next to it. Great days.
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A friend of mine broke their leg jumping off from below the shot holes on to a pad i.e. not a weird landing. I think it'd be pretty memorable if you had gotten up there.
I think I have a video of this.
:wave:
Yeah my friend's gear was blocking the shothole so I didn't want to slap for it, put a heel around the arete and used a high smear instead but the smear popped as I was creeping my fingers into the bottom hole and I came off kind of spinning. I think I did land on a really old shit pad off to the side of the main stack though, and mainly on one leg....
I remember thinking at the time (2010) that you could maybe tie off a sturdy nail in the hole where I presume the slider thing goes, so I guess the placement must be at least that old. Psyched to hear there's potentially something rated to place there! Might have to get back on it.... :-\
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Yeah, its a clip up now. :lol: