UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Steve R on July 16, 2010, 12:34:19 am
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A quick search for this thread showed it didn't exist yet and I didn't want to sully the quality vids thread so, here we are. Anyway, was just keen to share this:
Collateral (http://vimeo.com/13281460)
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Nice one fatty, looks well good. Presume the elbows are going ok this summer then?
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Yeah I saw that the other day on your blog - looks really good. Shall make a trip up that way later in the year now that I've seen this and Reeve has given it all his seal of approval!
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cheers barros, elbows alright for bouldering and bouldery headpoints it seems. Hanging on for longer periods is more problematic - your worst nightmare?!
@ tommy; nice one, ADKOB will stay clean and dries pretty quickly, Collateral might tend to dirty up a bit more as there're a couple of narrow fluting/drainage channels down the line, still shouldn't take too long to dry though I'd have thought, 1/2 dry days?
Anyway, speak of the devil, here he is on the same day giving said seal of approval:
(footage and editting not great but hey...)
Reeve goes ground up @ Raven's Scar (http://vimeo.com/13376350)
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I think my limit would be HVS without hanging on forever...
I liked the vid. What's the music? Effort Reeve.
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Collateral looks good. Not sure why the Blue thing is given 3 stars, it looks like a wandering line that avoids two obvious LGPs and then ends up joining Stratagem.
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Collateral looks good. Not sure why the Blue thing is given 3 stars, it looks like a wandering line that avoids two obvious LGPs and then ends up joining Stratagem.
And uses side runners (kind of). And essentially starts half-way up the butress :lol:
On the up-side, the line makes much more sense once on it - it follows the best holds to and from that obvious jug on the arete and once your foot/heel is on the jug, the merge with the top of stratagem is inevitable/natural. I take your point though, maybe it's not worth 3* - I just gave it that since the rock, moves and positions are all awesome and the overall experience felt 3* to me, certainly in the context of the Moors.
Anyway, the other guys who've climbed it seemed to agree in terms of quality and they're in a better position than me to judge I reckon. 'The best sequence I've done on a route' was the quote of choice I think but Reeve might just have been a little over excited!?
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I liked the vid. What's the music?
obviously not enough to watch it all the way through then :spank:
the track's called 'Les Djinns', I got it off a Trentmoller album - 'Trentmoller Chronicles'
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On the subject of which....can you PM me a clear facial photo of reeve, ta (or, better, a link to one).
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A bit more north york moors headpointing. 'Solitary tri-pod from afar' school of cinematography:
Round Headpointing (http://vimeo.com/13922851)
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what was the rope for on the 1st route, stop your belayer getting bored?
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Can't see it from the angle of the video but the landing slopes off quite steeply. I reckoned a tied in belayer would be worth having so you'd only bounce down the slope so far if you fell. He's not quite as redundant as he looks, for the first 2/3 of the route anyway. Bit of a shame this pinnacle/block isn't just on flat ground in some ways, then all the routes would just be great highballs....
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Deathwatch (http://vimeo.com/15568551)
Best belayer on grit?? I think so :)
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:agree:
Was expecting the complete opposite then Mr Nike Air. And some impressive whipper and ground breaking sprinting.
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Not entirely sure where to put this, as its not really bouldering and its not really chuffing. Though theres a bit more actual chuffing than bouldering so here'll have to do.
Behold, the trials and tribulations of being Dave Graham....
Dave Graham's LIfe on the Edge—Amazing! (http://vimeo.com/15632853)
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Deathwatch (http://vimeo.com/15568551)
Best belayer on grit?? I think so :)
:)
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For the crack perverts ;)
Giggling Crack (http://www.vimeo.com/16614504)
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Ha ha! That's funny! I can't believe you two went and did that! I think Jordan should get at least E8 considering his crack skill level.
Good effort. Ray's Roof or Gobblers next?????
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Good effort. Ray's Roof or Gobblers next?????
Rays! After a warm up consisting of Wellington Crack, London Wall, Ramshaw Crack, and finally Milky Way. ;D
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YAY, not a crack climb :great:
China Syndrome- Ground up and flash (http://vimeo.com/16727015)
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:lol: :lol: :lol: Giggling cracks always looks desperate, were you sick? Good vid!
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Soul Surviver in the Churnet, the very long way
Soul Survivor E5 6b (http://vimeo.com/6633684)
Strangler on the plantation
The Strangler E4 5c (http://vimeo.com/7070075)
and San Melas
San Melas (http://vimeo.com/6633647)
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Think these must be from a recent trip. Saw one of them getting bolted in May so must be.
Margalef roofs - "403" second ascent F8c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwmLmXUbXpQ#ws)
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Franco wears lame beard as disguise
Picnic Lunch Wall Draw Thief (http://vimeo.com/18267416)
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They're nicer guys than me. That would have been balaclava's and rubber hose territory.
but when isn't, eh?
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that's just saturday nights surely :shrug:
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Quickdraw thief caught red handed.
Picnic Lunch Wall Draw Thief (http://vimeo.com/18267416)
I poached this from UKC but its well worth watching.
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Quickdraw thief caught red handed.
Picnic Lunch Wall Draw Thief (http://vimeo.com/18267416)
I poached this from UKC but its well worth watching.
Two posts up! Was posted here before it was linked on UKC forums, and UKC then decided to make it their Friday fright-night vid! Credit to Moo for finding it in the first place.
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DOH, just looked on prev page and found the original... my bad.
God I hope this hangover clears soon!
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Helmetcam slab whipper (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVnAVcbMoSM#ws)
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what a ride man, been there
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its the sheer panik that starts setting in haha,looks like there are some goodish holds up and right.i suspect by then he knew he was off
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some low quality action at Baslow from a windy yesterday:
baslow bangers (http://vimeo.com/19548336)
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Nice work Steve, good sountrack and some tall falls!
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it is a good soundtrack Steve but you're a rat bastard for using it!
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In an effort to gert mention of my successful redpoint of a sport 8 yesterday here's a video of it:
Moddey Dhoo (http://vimeo.com/21965876)
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I got the impression you were small, but never realised you were that wee! Oh wait, you're just "far away"! :P
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That's what you'd think until you realise that the crag is only 6m high.
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I am that small.
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Bit boring i must say but keen to gain recognition for a great crag with some great routes!!
Glory Days E4 5c - Huntsham (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F42JWllc-Xg#ws)
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Then post a video about a different crag!
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Then post a video about a different crag!
What?
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Then post a video about a different crag!
What?
Harsh Fiend!
What's the score with access to Huuntsham. I'm in Hereford soon and would be keen for a visit but thought it was banned?
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Huntsham looks good on paper and from a distance, but close up....hmmm even as a devout esotericist it was a bit too much. Good effort to the lass in the video tho, looked like a scary highball flash.
Still want to do Shadowlands though, somehow.
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Access has been a bit iffy for a while but i have been at least 10 or 20 times since issues and have had no trouble, as long as your reasonably discreet it seems ok.
Depends what you try and whether you find the gems wether you liike the crag i suppose but problems like golden bicep, ames low and bowl rim would be classics at any crag!!! Appointment with Beer on the routes front too, along with shadowlands too!
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Jerry Moffatt plugging "Topo di falesia". There isn't any climbing really nor a huge amount of insight but, well, it's Jerry y'know... and there is a certain ukb connection of course.
videointervista JERRY MOFFATT.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDA5FVb1Sho&feature=player_detailpage#ws)
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I was out in Italy with Jerry when Topo di falesia was published. Someone said what does that mean and an Italian guy said "Crag Rat. No, no, not rat, Crag Mouse." ;D
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Jordan Buys Cry Freedom 8b+ (http://www.vimeo.com/26550919)
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He walks it.
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Low quality but wort watching. Perfect timing :punk:
EOTA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xgiuRi0YBA#)
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Low quality but wort watching with the sound off
Quite interesting to watch.
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thought you muthers might like this??
[url]http://www.vimeo.com/26693407/url]
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Hopefully just learnt to embed shizzle, you learn summat new every day!!
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/26693407?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=1" width="398" height="299" frameborder="0"></iframe>
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Here's something new to learn. This forum embeds automatically, just C&P the url.
Comme ca
Smash it in 3: Trailer (http://www.vimeo.com/26693407)
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Low quality but wort watching. Perfect timing :punk:
looked well shaky all the way up - good belaying...
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What happened to the Never, Never Land video? Bloody brilliant route!
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What happened to the Never, Never Land video?
Never, Never Land (http://www.vimeo.com/30313234)
Here it is - removed it as i thought it hadnt worked.
Bloody brilliant route!
Definately - one of the best routes around !
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:bounce: :bounce: Looks great. Looks even scarier from below I should add.
bomber RPs
Why does Rockfax say the gear behind the flake has been tested but doesn't hold ?? Thanks.
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I presume Step 0 was to get your mate to abseil down and brush it and chalk the holds before the onsight ;)
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Onsight blah headpoint blah blah. If I hadn't had any ethics I wouldn't have broken my frikkin' foot (less hubris might also have done the trick, admittedly). Sod ethics.
I await my puntering.
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:bounce: :bounce: Looks great. Looks even scarier from below I should add.
bomber RPs
Why does Rockfax say the gear behind the flake has been tested but doesn't hold ?? Thanks.
Sarcasm really forgot to put ""'s on the video. One was okish though..
I presume Step 0 was to get your mate to abseil down and brush it and chalk the holds before the onsight ;)
Im afraid Step 0 was to tr it into submission. im to weak for proper ethics im afraid :(
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A truely non - quality video - but get up there and do the route! Eldwick - Elevator E6 6c (http://vimeo.com/30850738)
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Some footage of a few slabby classics from the start of the year, hopefully provide some inspiration now it's getting cooler....
A Day Sketching at the Roaches (http://vimeo.com/31081598)
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A truely non - quality video - but get up there and do the route! Eldwick - Elevator E6 6c (http://vimeo.com/30850738)
Whats with the "wonder draw" hanging off the top of the crag?
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The top is made of cheese. Try it with out and claim an extra e point?
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Some footage of a few slabby classics from the start of the year, hopefully provide some inspiration now it's getting cooler....
A Day Sketching at the Roaches (http://vimeo.com/31081598)
Great stuff, just had a coffee break staring out of the window at the rain and this was the perfect antidote.
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Yeah, ticks all the boxes doesn't it? Though the pre-placed gear box should probably be left blank as a rule.
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Ilkley Trip (http://vimeo.com/31273335)
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:bow:
very nice. congrats.
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One of the no doubt many, many headpoint ascents. I am in awe of those who have flashed this route. My hat.
End Of The Affair (http://vimeo.com/31739513)
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I can't believe your method on the crux! Scary!
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Christ how tall are you?
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I hear a lot of people do it this way these days (since Consumed). Well, the headpointing heathens anyway.
Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't Ryan Pasquill flash it using this method? That IS scary. Maybe not so much with a massive wingspan though?
I'm 6'4"
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Ryan did flash it this way, that's right. Lets not forget it was raining as well.
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Amazing effort.
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Good effort big Dan! Must be some aretes in the mournes on the ticklist now!
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Good effort. It was very hot for November on Sunday. I declined lead on headpoint project at Froggatt in order to wait for good conditions . Did you wait till later to do it or just send it in the heat?
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Waited til later. It was still pretty hot though. I was only there for the day and I live in Ireland, so I was pretty keen to get it done.
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Good effort big Dan! Must be some aretes in the mournes on the ticklist now!
Get on Crystal Methods and Tolerance. they should be in range if you can do EOTA in those conditions. Nice one on the pressure send anyway :thumbsup:
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Those routes are in the back of my mind (as to do at some point) but its all about the unclimbed projects over here!
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Ryan did flash it this way, that's right. Lets not forget it was raining as well.
Blimey, I had heard that.
It was raining in the consumed clip too, is this the pre approved method for shite conditions then?
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Circus E7 6b (http://vimeo.com/32200517)
Another headpoint vid. Great route though.
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A few curbar routes from back in March:
#1 Curbar (http://vimeo.com/32324972)
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Good effort on the onsight/flash stuff :smartass:
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nice. you got a new camera Steve? quality seems to have increased markedly in this vid :great:
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Cheers Ali. No, I'd borrowed a mate's camera for a bit back in spring. It's only a cheap SD card HD one but in good light it gives quite nice sharp results. (It's actually the same camera as for the roaches vid but I made a hash of rendering that one!)
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Almost time for the winter conditions debates to get rehashed again....
http://youtu.be/jNrdI1nUPmM (http://youtu.be/jNrdI1nUPmM)
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Dave Birkett at Bowderstone.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNrdI1nUPmM#)
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Just uploaded this from some low quality footage.
Anyone spot the deliberate mnistake :-[ OOps. :spank:
End Of The Affair (http://vimeo.com/32634708)
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He forgets to make it look hard?
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I'd give him 6c for doing it in boreals
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By extension, does that make Gaskins' Shadow Play the world's first font9a?
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By extension, does that make Gaskins' Shadow Play the world's first font9a?
probably is in any brand of shoes, godskins isn't human
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Fungal marketing thingie, but nicely done.
Doritos® - Crash the Super Bowl 2012 - Gravity (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqyzMSHK6D4#ws)
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Citi: Accessories (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VE4bcq8Plzk#ws)
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What language did the word Psicobloc evolve from? It just seems such a daft name.
Why couldn't it just stay "Deep Water Soloing" in whatever the respective language is?
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What language did the word Psicobloc evolve from? It just seems such a daft name.
Why couldn't it just stay "Deep Water Soloing" in whatever the respective language is?
Didn't it evolve on Mallorca (so Spanish)?
There's that guy Miguel (? Paul B will perhaps correct me ?) in The Fanatic Search (http://www.triaylaurent.com/prestashop/product.php?id_product=10) where he's talking about the development of DWS in Mallorca.
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Fair enough, so Spaniards are allowed to use it. No one else has an excuse though :)
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As opposed to American Psicobloc which involves attacking Carlo Traversi with a chainsaw because he had a better business card than you.
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The End Of The Affair (http://vimeo.com/35130676)
;D
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My only criticism would be I couldn't work out if you were chuffed or not......
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Yeah, show a bit of emotion, wot are u dead inside?
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Genocide E6 6c (http://vimeo.com/39977803)
great and frustrating route.
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2012 SCS National Championships (http://vimeo.com/40050096)
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Now that's keen...
That Sounds Horrible Teaser (http://vimeo.com/40163652)
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Rob Lamey's vid of Tom trying Catxasa last year.
Catxasa 9a+ - Tom Bolger (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unR2tqVq_Bw#)
For anyone interested, the 9a version he just did does the same start (through the mono and undercut moves) to the rest, then finishes up Fabelita instead of Fabela.
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I love watching Tom climbing. :strongbench:
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Petzl RocTrip China 2011 [EN] The official movie (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcU255XBlcI#ws)
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Wow.
China looks great.
You'd think that, with all the space, there'd be more people living there.
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Shakey Iphone footage but a massive YYFY for me so im pretty happy. H1N1 8a at Dinas rock
H1N1 Ben Norman (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXHx4Endn_w#ws)
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i couldn't find a "non quality chuffing pics" thread, so i'll post this random internet photo here:
(http://mediacdn.disqus.com/uploads/mediaembed/images/246/260/original.jpg)
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Almost put it in "Quality" but erred on the side of caution.
"Overnite Sensation" (8a+) - Robbie Phillips on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/28245736)
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Observe how he clips the chain and thereby ticks the route!
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[Observe how he clips the chain and thereby ticks the route!
/quote]
Why have people been claiming ascents without clipping the chain!?
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So shoot me
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I thought chains were just like the big finishing jugs at the wall!
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So shoot me
why, when I have this sweet forum :tease:
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Athlete Profile: Off-width climber Pamela Pack - Outside Today (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=batOAey3FsU#ws)
Fantastic training bit.
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Gathering Sun, Nesscliffe on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/46705178)
some nice uncut video of me on gathering sun at the mighty nesscliffe. thanks to phil black for filming!
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Guess this goes here...
https://vimeo.com/47547951
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Guess this goes here...
Imposterbee 7c+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/47547951)
Very exciting
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Bloodrush E6 6b on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49233216)
dry and clean up there atm, someone go flash it.
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Yayy!
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Great stuff. What's the great looking square cut arete to the left?
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Its an unnamed E4, and the face to its right holds a ramp feature (can just be seen) that's meant to be good, E4 5c.
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Unnamed? the horror the horror.
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Yayy!
Cheers, thanks for the info regarding gear etc a while ago. decided to use a very low (basically ground level) runner in Saucius (i was too lazy to try and find the runner you used around the corner). Definately up there with Appointment, Loose Control and others for best bit of rock on the moors!
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Was this also climbed in 'Consumed'? It looks strangely familiar but I can't find my copy.
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Was this also climbed in 'Consumed'? It looks strangely familiar but I can't find my copy.
yes it was
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The First Ascent of Banksy by Shadow Ayala (RV Project Episode 8) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45598600)
are his eyebrows blue?
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Border Wars on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/19498529)
how awsome is this?
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That's a lot of rock! Be nice to see more climbing though.
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less sunken boat more climbing would have been good...
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A nice weekend on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/51958317)
2 from the weekend
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A few scrap clips from my journey into wondering whether I should of bought a Video Camera instead of a DSLR :rtfm:
Grit with Grounsell on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/52909817)
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Well filmed, should be in the Bouldering Videos thread tho. Presumably the rope above The Knock was for someone to clean it for the climber.
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Good video, nice to see some interesting angles.
These routes look really tempting... what's the small gear in Pebble Mill, and is it any good?
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It's a grey area with The Knock IMO but I see your point, 6B+ ***
Presumably the rope above The Knock was for someone to clean it for the climber.
The rope was for me as I wanted to film it on ab but couldn't get a good position without being a hindrance to the climber, Oli flashed it
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Good video, nice to see some interesting angles.
These routes look really tempting... what's the small gear in Pebble Mill, and is it any good?
I don't know but it looked shit
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Good video, nice to see some interesting angles.
These routes look really tempting... what's the small gear in Pebble Mill, and is it any good?
its pretty mediocre, and very low on that top crux, most i know have soloed it but yeh the gear might catch you.
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A few scrap clips from my journey into wondering whether I should of bought a Video Camera instead of a DSLR :rtfm:
Grit with Grounsell on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/52909817)
Can I just thank you for reminding me of the best set I've ever played. Rolling like a wheel through the best sound system ever with no room to move. My palms are sweating. Bodzin = Godzin.
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Bodzin = Godzin.
:yes: I'm late to the party and now a fanboy
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A few scrap clips from my journey into wondering whether I should of bought a Video Camera instead of a DSLR
No, stick with it. Looks good, and will get better the more you use it.
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Very non-quality + it misses out the top...
My Halo E7 6b Slate Climbing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7ix-n-BZng#)
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Kevin Jorgeson: Dawn Wall Dyno, Pitch 15 :o
http://www.facebook.com/v/111364392360198 (http://www.facebook.com/v/111364392360198)
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Simbas Pride on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/53369748)
bad video of a good line
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abrakadabra, 7c, galgeberget (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jT1-BcDvOXY#ws)
Not a very good video of a very good climb in Bohuslän, Sweden...
Abrakadabra, 7c
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El Cap Tree Epic (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqOrMDrDIk0#ws)
Keep watching!
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I was on edge all the way through that.
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Me too. Also there are a few placements I would have used!
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Liam on Entropy's Jaw
Entropy's Jaw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOad5d_F4p8#ws)
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Liam on Entropy's Jaw
Entropy's Jaw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOad5d_F4p8#ws)
nice one liam
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this weekend's fun
First try or fly on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/53890693)
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Excellent - very tense.
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Proper sweaty palm moment there. Good job
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Quality :2thumbsup:
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I enjoyed that.
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Great belyaing, glad you're ok.
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I think thats crossing into the Qualidy chuffing video category..
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Now THAT - o/s attempts and flash on the Trout - is more like it :)
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http://vimeo.com/m/54680703 (http://vimeo.com/m/54680703)
One from Friday at crookrise..
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trying to embed but struggling.. :-\
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http://vimeo.com/m/54680703 (http://vimeo.com/m/54680703)
One from Friday at crookrise..
Sutty's new Crookrise Route on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/54680703)
it still had the 'm' in the link for 'mobile'
route looks real nice!
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Cool, tied down spotters obligatory eh! Fuck lugging all those pads up there tho.
Please get (borrow/steal) a better camera....I want to see more footage of these grit things.
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Not wanting to be a grade whore but...
How hard is this? Is it next the Slip'n'Slide? In which case I assume it's got to be at least E7??
Looks cool.
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Mentioned E8 at the end there. Top effort. I was fucking shitting it
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Brilliant Bamford scenes too. Carried on shitting myself. Effort!
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soft E8 6c maybe??? Totally brilliant climbing, a future classic I hope.
Would love to have a better camera, This one said HD when I bought it, it was lying... Anyone got a spare!
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Some very non-quality forgoten footage from last winters grit spree
https://vimeo.com/54794525
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Paralogism on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/54794525)
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Can confirm the quality and of that Crookrise thing, its brilliant. I toproped it about ten years ago after seeing holds on it while hanging on a rope filmin Dan Honneyman on Slip n Slide. I guessed the grade would be about E8 6c. Great stuff fellas. :2thumbsup:
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soft E8 6c maybe??? Totally brilliant climbing, a future classic I hope.
Would love to have a better camera, This one said HD when I bought it, it was lying... Anyone got a spare!
Are you sure you've got it set to maximum quality, these things tend to have a default of a medium/low resolution setting (I presume to fit more footage on card?), either that or the software you're editing it with is taking all the quality out
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Its set to fine quality, being a stills camera (Hitachi :2thumbsup:!!) that takes video footage I guess that's the best it is. I edited it in Windows movie maker which does not seem to change the quality for the better or worse.
The paralogism vid was taken on a mobile phone anyway.
What vid cameras do folk recommend?
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Any decent phone will do better than you're currently getting. Those little sony ones that lagers uses seem good for the money, can't remember the model at the moment but sure he'll be along soon.
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I just scavanged a Sony HDR CX-190E from the bones of Comet and I'm very happy with it so far. It was only 20% off but it comes very highly rated on various reviews and Which? so I thought it might be worth getting it now before they run out. The footage looks excellent and it's simple to use. The one issue I have now is my editing software can't handle AVCHD format video files so I can't edit it, but I think Windows Movie Maker can deal with it but it'll run very slowly.
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I used this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Flip-Mino-HD-Camcorder-Widescreen/dp/B001V9LLFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354614099&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Flip-Mino-HD-Camcorder-Widescreen/dp/B001V9LLFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354614099&sr=8-1)
To make this:
Cliff Cliches on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/41721117)
From what I gather I could've rendered the final cut in a higher resolution too for better quality, but think it's not too bad as it is.
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;) Was it shot in TommyTwoChrome?
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http://youtu.be/BSryBhrWZYM (http://youtu.be/BSryBhrWZYM)
Included purely for the rest that even Barrows would be ashamed of at roughly 2min 15sec.
Please ignore the typically awful Spanish soundtrack.
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http://youtu.be/BSryBhrWZYM (http://youtu.be/BSryBhrWZYM)
Included purely for the rest that even Barrows would be ashamed of at roughly 2min 15sec.
Please ignore the typically awful Spanish soundtrack.
How is this not a quality video?!
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I would never be ashamed of a rest.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy7nBIlt6Zg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy7nBIlt6Zg)
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not an awesome vid (shot on iphone) but its the first F8a i've climbed in donkeys years so made me happy...
Alliance (F8a) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/56239647)
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Climbing. A fun day out.
Hungover Rock Climber (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZfayydpIKc#ws)
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Just found this footage on mountainproject.com (http://youtu.be/fu7gp-aKsbo)of Tony Yaniro et al climbing horrendous offwidths in the early 80s, one of which had its FFA from John Long at 5.12c in 1973 :bow:
(http://youtu.be/fu7gp-aKsbo)
Check the apparent headjam at 3:45
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Wasn't this written up in Mountain at the time under the title 'A Different Sport?'. Pretty inspirational stuff at the time.
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The guys I went to Kyrgyzstan with are going to Greenland this summer while I go sport climbing in France, so obviously I'm shamelessly promoting their cause. Also there's a few clips from Kyrgyzstan, including me falling off at 2:39 like a sack of ungainly potatoes, and some insightful interviews with UKB's own jacobjacob sitting in front of his board.
http://vimeo.com/59538987# (http://vimeo.com/59538987#)
:off:
(More info here:
http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/333913/ (http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/333913/)
http://oxfordgreenlandexpedition.com/ (http://oxfordgreenlandexpedition.com/) )
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I just actually watched this....
Jacob's going to kill me!
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Marrow Bone Jelly E7 6C on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/59855883)
Great route, need to get back and tick the block now :)
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Marrow Bone Jelly E7 6C on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/59855883)
Great route, need to get back and tick the block now :)
Nice one. Remember classic shit ya sen expressions in Consumed on the top bit
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Force Majeure - 7b - First Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61452253)
New F7b by 80's haircut Luke Owens on here. Dunno where this is but it looks a pretty cool route, good effort yoof.
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Marrow Bone Jelly E7 6C on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/59855883)
Great route, need to get back and tick the block now :)
Nice Will! Was that a flash? Either way very smooth.
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Force Majeure - 7b - First Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61452253)
New F7b by 80's haircut Luke Owens on here. Dunno where this is but it looks a pretty cool route, good effort yoof.
Denbigh, North Wales
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Funky rock! Looks good.
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Well Andy Carroll's definitely better at sport climbing than at football.
Looks good nice one!
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Force Majeure - 7b - First Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61452253)
New F7b by 80's haircut Luke Owens on here. Dunno where this is but it looks a pretty cool route, good effort yoof.
"80's Haircut" haha...
Nice to make the non-quality thread...!
It's a great route, cheers guys.
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to bolt or not to be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uWrLtWB6E4#ws)
The first 10 bolts of America's first 8b+. The only complete footgage on the net.
"20 seconds of a top 5 hit song from each year since the route was established in 1986. An auditory journey through the past 26 terrible years of pop music".
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Wipe Out on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60824497)
Looks like a burly bit of roofing!
Supertubes is a crag in Bad (Bath in Afrikaans) Kloof near Montagu in the Western Cape Province of South Africa, at the southern tip of the African Continent.
31 equates to approvimately 8a+ in the French route grading system. This is the 3rd ascent.
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to bolt or not to be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uWrLtWB6E4#ws)
The first 10 bolts of America's first 8b+. The only complete footgage on the net.
"20 seconds of a top 5 hit song from each year since the route was established in 1986. An auditory journey through the past 26 terrible years of pop music".
wtf I thought that was a child soloing the wall right of masters edge from just scrolling down
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I am sure everyone has seen this before except me. But just in case you haven't.
What would jerry do? Hopefully never dress like borat again.
You Bet | Wall Challenge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7zY8SugOAY#)
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wtf I thought that was a child soloing the wall right of masters edge from just scrolling down
Ha ha yes the arete to the left looks like a jumbo sized masters edge, that wd be quite impressive!
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Cool Moonage yesterday....
Cool Moon (http://player.vimeo.com/video/62107034)
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Now that's more like it. I like the obligatory snow too :)
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Cool Moonage yesterday....
Cool Moon (http://player.vimeo.com/video/62107034)
nice one 17-year old Oli G, it's always good to break the habit of falling. Shame you didn't use 'man on the moon' as the track instead.
p.s is it cool moon that somone's on in the consumed video, pulls the cam out and decks in a very funny but albeit scary way?
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Personally I'm disappointed. It said 'Flash Attempt.' I was expecting a good prang.
Not really, good effort, impressive lack of dithering.
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Thought I would keep suspense going, btw I'm 18. Just for the record haha :)
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p.s is it cool moon that somone's on in the consumed video, pulls the cam out and decks in a very funny but albeit scary way?
Yep it's Cool Moon, but it's on "Winter Sessions" I think not consumed. It was a guy we used to climb with over west side who bit off more than he could chew. He actually tried it again after that and did pretty much the same thing before we all said we wouldn't belay or spot him on it anymore because it was just stupid.
It's fucking hilarious viewing though, we used to watch it on repeat pissing ourselves. You can hear me go "fuckin' 'ell" in a very stressed way on the footage as it was all too much !!!
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p.s is it cool moon that somone's on in the consumed video, pulls the cam out and decks in a very funny but albeit scary way?
Yep it's Cool Moon, but it's on "Winter Sessions" I think not consumed. It was a guy we used to climb with over west side who bit off more than he could chew. He actually tried it again after that and did pretty much the same thing before we all said we wouldn't belay or spot him on it anymore because it was just stupid.
It's fucking hilarious viewing though, we used to watch it on repeat pissing ourselves. You can hear me go "fuckin' 'ell" in a very stressed way on the footage as it was all too much !!!
:lol: good stuff
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It was a guy we used to climb with over west side who bit off more than he could chew.
Mark S or Andi T?? ;)
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Thought I would keep suspense going, btw I'm 18. Just for the record haha :)
Love it when its just left as "attempt" so your unsure as to whether success is coming or not. Great effort!
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Thought I would keep suspense going, btw I'm 18. Just for the record haha :)
Love it when its just left as "attempt" so your unsure as to whether success is coming or not. Great effort!
Agree. A simple yet effective device to create a bit of drama.
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Not really chuffing, and definitely not quality, but made me laugh. Possibly been posted up before somewhere
http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k (http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k)
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Yosemite Slab on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/62521842)
look at that for a slab :o looks awesome
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Guy falls off green gut at froggatt and takes ground fall!!...enjoy
"https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=10151502480179871"
News paper style miss leading title. :sorry:
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LOL. Ripe for snowballing then.
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Angie ScarthJohnson - on her send of 'Turkey Slap' 26 (7b+) Bardens , Blue Mountains. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWqOeRYTJhk#ws)
8 years old doing a 7b+. Not bad. She did a 7c a couple of days earlier....
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Readers Vidz, a non quality tidal screamer
Rhoscolyn DWS on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65258675)
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have we had this yet?
the main non-quality is from 01:24
Escalade: climbing iZ not, épisode n°6 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65210469)
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Cummingston Prow the safe way. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65292800)
Guaranteed not to contain any: getting out of bed (slow, due to cold bedroom), making pancakes (had eggs and black pudding instead), brewing coffee (decent and plentiful), driving to the crag (bit slow on the A96), nor waffling on about conditions (they were ace) :2thumbsup:
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have we had this yet?
Strange, a mickey-take (the character is Jean Aymarre ffs) that leaves me kind of sad. Good post though.
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You're a total disgrace, Fiend. No commitment whatsoever.
Looked fun though.
Cummingston Prow the safe way. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65292800)
Guaranteed not to contain any: getting out of bed (slow, due to cold bedroom), making pancakes (had eggs and black pudding instead), brewing coffee (decent and plentiful), driving to the crag (bit slow on the A96), nor waffling on about conditions (they were ace) :2thumbsup:
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Looked like a tactical battle...
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No committment to risky climbing? Or no committment to non-quality videos by not including any driving to the crag and pancake making?? :???:
Tactics....yeah. That's why I wanted to do a video, to show how some dangers can be nimbly outwitted with a bit of tactics. In retrospect the climbing was easy....but I didn't know that until afterwards. :)
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No committment to risky climbing? Or no committment to non-quality videos by not including any driving to the crag and pancake making?? :???
Both. But, what I really like to see in a NQCV is a cocktail of blinkers-on determination, sketchy technique and gear ill-judged placements that invariably leaves the protagonist pumped, and in an irreversible, dangerous position. Not some sensible, calculated siege as seen here. It's the trad equivalent of alpine vs capsule style.
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GuyVG on the other side of the lense
Brachiation Dance (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-bgDRC_-fc#)
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looks like a cracking climb fiend, good effort!
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C:UsersEvanDocumentsBrian on Just Behrly on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65549415)
Tricky looking crux.
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Wimberry on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65629719)
Some stuff from this weekend/last week.
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Nice wee clip, like the music too.
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Wimberry on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65629719)
Some stuff from this weekend/last week.
nice one Nath dog!
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In Brine from last night, very top end 8a IMO with the demise of the 'sugarcube', not quite 8a+, still good route just cruxy!
In Brine 2013 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qNPjKoRJcw#)
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Walking With Barrance - 7b (http://vimeo.com/66781853)
A Dinbren classic!
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Appointment With Death on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/67230477)
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You made that look way too easy! Good work!
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steady away, great.
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Jesuschrist, that's not how E9 should look like.
Shooting fish in a barrel, that is.
Very deceiving.
:bow:
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if that's not quality I don't know what is. Walked it.
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Made it look 5c! Effort beast!
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shock of the new, a film by some climbers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3DTXq289wk#)
quite old, might have been posted before
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Definately belongs in the Quality thread
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No matter how many times I see it that fall off Weather Report is harrowing. I rewatched a few times hoping there would be a better outcome!
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Horrible ain't it.... :sick: like rope swing leg break (youtube it) *cringe*
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Yep, that's a bad one too!
I also enjoy the 'twat on a bike' video...
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No matter how many times I see AFBSC or Consumed, I always skip that fall off Weather Report.
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Sachi Amma onsights Ganja Extension (8b+) in Hourai:
http://youtu.be/JcxWIKYgkXk (http://youtu.be/JcxWIKYgkXk)
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The Story of Mecca - Mid Life Crisis on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/68128640)
An interview with Martin Atkinson with additional thoughts from Steve Mclure.
Martin explains the history behind one of the UK's most iconic sport routes Mecca.
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I enjoyed that, thanks
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Nice Char, love the sport history!
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Massive Ground Fall, Emmett Hits the Deck! Year of the Snake - Tim Emmett Diaries (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGkn8vjEoHg#ws)
"Massive Ground Fall"
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https://vimeo.com/68284238
ok my first efforts at using a proper camera, the editing is bad but see what you think.
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Nice one, some really inspiring ascents and attempts there. Top quality faffing too :)
One thing I'd like is to have a bit of a closer zoom on Crisis Zone and Rothley, just to show the difficulty of the climbing better. It's certainly cool you've got a better camera, I look forward to seeing more stuff from it (esp. in this climbing style)
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Also...
What made Crisis Zone and Masterblaster Arete flashes rather than onsights?
What was the problem with Masterclass?
Was it bloody scary coming off On The Rocks given it was a near groundfall?
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https://vimeo.com/68284238
ok my first efforts at using a proper camera, the editing is bad but see what you think.
Good stuff. Also to note if you take the s off the end of http in vimeo urls the video will embed in ukb links.
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The video doesn't really do it justice; Masterblaster is a great line.
Good effort.
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Neil showing the (lank) beta for Half Man Half Cake. Worthwhile micro route at Wyming Brook
Half Man Half Cake (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bour_qEuLfE#ws)
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I must have been in ceuse when you wrote this..
Also...
What made Crisis Zone and Masterblaster Arete flashes rather than onsights?
What was the problem with Masterclass?
Was it bloody scary coming off On The Rocks given it was a near groundfall?
Would have been nice to film up close but had to use a small tripod most of the time.
On CZ and MBA I got to watch Naomi top rope them.
She cleaned Masterclass up for me and played on it without me watching so I could have an onsight go. I just could not commit and backed off. I thought I may as well throw a rope down and have a play but could not span the crux move using the available foot holds. Really morpho unfortunately. Im was rubbish.
It was pretty grim falling off OTR, I ripped out a fair bit of gear and came away lucky. That will teach me for setting off when it was boiling!! Nao refused to belay me again on it unless I practiced the move.
Macbeth is a real stunner, on of the hardest e6s about, the gear ain't that bomber looking either. 2.5cam in a sandy flared slot and a token small wire. I think something has come off for the left hand that you make the mono move to.
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Nice one beast. I like Naomi laying down the law for OTR, sounds sensible!
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Too Old to be Bold - a surprisingly enjoyable route
Too Old to be Bold (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAjoxSQqmL0#)
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Is stick clipping the second bolt the norm on Too Old to be Bold? Looked at it the other day and noped when i saw the gap between the first and second.
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The first bolt is in a bit of state so we decided to stick clip the second, yeh. And the chossy runout to the belay didn't look too appealing so we just dropped off from the good holds in the break. Bit naff really, but that's Peak lime!
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we just dropped off from the good holds in the break. Bit naff really, but that's Peak lime!
To be fair to the route its better if you clip the bolts on lead and go to the belay. Otherwise yes it will feel like a badly rigged toproping session.
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The Champ on Beau Geste (http://youtu.be/O2zRgjv6LwE)
Courtesy of Andy Kirkpatrick's twitter feed.
"What's all the fuss about?"
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we just dropped off from the good holds in the break. Bit naff really, but that's Peak lime!
To be fair to the route its better if you clip the bolts on lead and go to the belay. Otherwise yes it will feel like a badly rigged toproping session.
To be fair to the route it probably deserves E3 6c if you go to the belay. Does it really add much going up a chossy gully?
I've seen far worse pre-clipping crimes on peak lime than that!
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I've seen far worse pre-clipping crimes on peak lime than that!
Is it possible pre-clip more than all the bolts on a route?
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I've seen far worse pre-clipping crimes on peak lime than that!
Is it possible pre-clip more than all the bolts on a route?
No, but it's possible to pre-clip more than 2 ;)
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The first bolt is in a bit of state so we decided to stick clip the second, yeh. And the chossy runout to the belay didn't look too appealing so we just dropped off from the good holds in the break. Bit naff really, but that's Peak lime!
Could always use a long sling to extend the top bolt to somewhere near the level of the first, give the route a fighting chance.
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More dodgy ethics from Mark in this. Now ask him if he cares! Sorry about the overexposure.
Scarab on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/69657591)
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I like the vid, the music and tie dye make it, and to be fair the routes climbed in a better style than the normal top roping. Black Kabul next door is very onsightable tho.
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I make no excuses, not for the driving / paddling to the crag section, nor for the sloppy, long-winded edit.
Esoteric Canadian DWS on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70010537)
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Short video of a great route I did last night at Crunch Buttress.
Agent Provocateur f8a+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70081243)
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Nice one - looks good. Are the holds particularly sharp on this, or just small?
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Cheers. Holds aren't too sharp, hardest bit is at the start with smallish holds and tenuous feet. Really good moves all the way!
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loving your 8a.poo pyramid. You should take 7b for brachiation to keep things neat.
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Are there any bolts to clip on that?? What's Crunch Buttress like? I've never been but was thinking of trying to encourage the family there this weekend. Is the base of the crag child friendly?
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Nice, can you bivy in the finishing cave?
Makes me miss Peak Limestone, it actually has some appeal in this stupid warm weather.
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Haha yeh it's pretty far from being a pyramid at the moment!
Yeh there's only 4 bolts and the lower off on the route but I skip the last one as you have to extend it so much theres little point in using it. Yeh it's really nice there, stays in shade most of day. Base of crag would be fine for kids, walk down to it is a bit steep but not too bad. Definitely worth a look, lots at moat buttress as well which is just a minute further down the dale.
Yeh looks like you could, its a very big ledge up there. Yeh its a cool spot!
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Cheers, sounds good.
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Nice, can you bivy in the finishing cave?
Makes me miss Peak Limestone, it actually has some appeal in this stupid warm weather.
Indeed. The appeal being to bivy in caves and drink - rather than to climb ;)
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Yeh there's only 4 bolts and the lower off on the route but I skip the last one as you have to extend it so much theres little point in using it.
You should be more careful George. I Know the route well and the state of the bolts. You may not reduce the distance you fall by extending the last bolt but at least there is a back up!
This route and Mission Impossible would have definitely been re bolted in the more proactive area like Yorkshire and N.Wales.
Like the way you did the last move off that shit slopper though. I went again LH.
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Wilderness Rocks on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70479182)
moorland esoterica!
(thanks to neil for the other angles)
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Wilderness Rocks on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70479182)
moorland esoterica!
(thanks to neil for the other angles)
Good effort, LGK always looks proper balls-out territory.
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2nd ascent?
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Wilderness Rocks on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70479182)
moorland esoterica!
(thanks to neil for the other angles)
fuckin' ace
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Brilliant Nathan!
Let me know when are going back up there
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Nads like coconuts. Good work. Has It Hurts had a 2nd ascent?
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Cigars of the Pharaohs - 7b on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70526101)
Short route on Clwyd Lime.
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Nads like coconuts. Good work. Has It Hurts had a 2nd ascent?
I don't think so. Has Shock of the New been repeated??
Original footage on Consumed. 20:00 for LGK.
consumed .mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYIvX5vNA6s#)
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LGK really stood out to me as one of the more thrilling ascents to watch on consumed, nathan definately seems to have a calmer, more business like approach than toms rather gung-ho-spring-in-his-step approach. Both great ascents, both gripping to watch
:beer2:
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That move at 22.45 is rather special :blink: (really needs a 'can't look' emoticon)
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Has It Hurts had a 2nd ascent?
pretty sure its not. had a look on the ab rope when we were up there and could barely pull on in the crux positions, guess thats why its 7a.
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Cold connies might be a whole new ballgame?
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Wilderness Rocks on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70479182)
Clear footage, two angles, esoteric repeats - Quality Chuffing Videos thread :rtfm:
(Also definitely worth the headpointing some of those unrepeated monsters)
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(Also definitely worth the headpointing some of those unrepeated monsters)
you must've gone soft... :P
it hurts would've felt better in the cold, but how much better i'm not so sure. i'll get back there again eventually, mutants is a great route.
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Credit where it's due....it seems a suitable style to do second ascents of bold, green, uncertain routes high up on the Moors!
I like seeing all this off-piste stuff :2thumbsup:
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Nice one chaps; good vid, and landing skills.
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To help pass the time waiting for Ondra's new flick may I suggest this beauty. Some stunning looking crags in the trailer:
http://www.totaleclips.com/Player/Bounce.aspx?eclipid=e13407&bitrateid=471&vendorid=102&type=.mp4/ (http://www.totaleclips.com/Player/Bounce.aspx?eclipid=e13407&bitrateid=471&vendorid=102&type=.mp4/)
"So are you guys climbing or talking?"
"Climbing"
...Classic.
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A gem. Gold.
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http://www.climberism.com/the-good-and-the-bad-of-climbing-commercials/ (http://www.climberism.com/the-good-and-the-bad-of-climbing-commercials/)
An impressive collection.
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Grit Ministers on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/59424830)
Featuring a cameo from UKB's very own old cheese!!
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A Dinbren classic, my first 7b+!
I Punched Judy First - 7b+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72119456)
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Good video. You pissed it :thumbsup:
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gOAGf2XyAM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gOAGf2XyAM#)
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Chinese Walls on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73685773)
shock of the new (beta)
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Good stuff. Like the heelhook and the helicopter.
The new guide says something about V9 climbing, but I think Martin was getting it mixed up with Mentalist Cupboard, which might now be a bit of a sandbag being listed as 'highball V8'. I thought SotN was B7 in the currency of the day...
Also the fall was tested a while back and found to be pretty safe.
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This way felt maybe font 7a+, neither me nor oli could touch your method, I reckon the heel way is knacky but much steadier. I take it it has seen repeats then? another great route.
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Dan had a few good goes at it, but didn't quite latch the top, and I've never heard of anyone else trying it.
That new route looks pretty good – such a great setting.
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Nice one. You should only be allowed to do Moorland Grit videos, it's cool seeing all this rarely climbed stuff.
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God I miss the moors :'(
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First attempt at DWS
DWS 2013 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VvP8bnkvAc#ws)
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I enjoyed that
:lol: Liam whooping for joy, next he'll be yelling "mad for it" and catching the psyche wagon to sendsville
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Climbing in Joutenheimen in 1918. Fast forward to 5:20 for the climbing.
http://www.nrk.no/nett-tv/klipp/109986/ (http://www.nrk.no/nett-tv/klipp/109986/)
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excessive german-ness
I got in an argument with Franco on ukc* about whether H-J is Austrian or "Italian" i.e. from South Tirol. I was right. Either way he definitely isn't German.
* My name is(n't really) Muenchener and I still go on the ukc forums, even though I know full well it is an even less valuable use of my time than playing angry birds in the U-Bahn.
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Austrian or German, who cares? It's all the same.
It's no different to calling a Welshman English - the welshman wouldn't mind, we're all one country really.........
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Local 8c
Daniel Fisher- Hats and Hoods 33 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xoggyIXSm0#)
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Local 8c
Daniel Fisher- Hats and Hoods 33 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xoggyIXSm0#)
Looks intense!
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Couple of clips of DWS failing today...
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151957791556103 (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151957791556103)
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151957780826103 (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151957780826103)
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Ugh, Australia, the land of giant man-eating spiders, wombats, and other horrific creatures. Surely that river must be full of alligators or dog-sized crabs or something??
Looks cool though, very classic DWS style!
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Na no crocs around here. Plenty of shark sightings up the river though...
And only saw 2 snakes today... :D
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Little edit
Nessie on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/76559279)
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Awesome!!! :2thumbsup:
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"http://vimeo.com/77736080"
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Here's our trip slideshow from September in Yosemite.
Big Walling - Scottish Style on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/78243757)
It's better quality on my hard drive - I need to work out how to optimise things for vimeo. First thing I have produced using lightworks. Damn, that was a learning curve and a half!
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Here are two from the Aggro Gully sector at Smith Rock, well worth a visit!
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/ted-kingsnorth-mama-docus-smith-rock-513c (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/ted-kingsnorth-mama-docus-smith-rock-513c)
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/justin-brown-bad-man-514-smith-rock (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/justin-brown-bad-man-514-smith-rock)
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My recent roped endeavors. Distinctly non-quality...
Howl of the Damned - 13d/14a FA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpkWcyieacw#ws)
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we've been replaced
JPL's Rock Climbing Robot (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjPZAYNqQrQ#)
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Gaia E8 6c on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79040700)
:)
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Nice work Will. Harder faster next? Less moves, must be easier ;)
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I've never seen Gaia made to look so small. You lanky fucks make me sick.
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At least he did the crux the powerful way and not the lanky way!
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This was listed as bouldering...
widowmaker on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79674543)
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^don't you limey motherfuckers call that headpointing or some bullshit?
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You got a dirty mouth boy.
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This was listed as bouldering...
widowmaker on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79674543)
looks big, song reminded me of this classic scene
office space printer scene (original) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60821380)
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This was listed as bouldering...
widowmaker on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79674543)
Fuck me where is that shit?
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This was listed as bouldering...
widowmaker on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79674543)
looks big, song reminded me of this classic scene
office space printer scene (original) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60821380)
absolute classic!!
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This was listed as bouldering...
widowmaker on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79674543)
Fuck me where is that shit?
Apparently it's in Flagstaff, Arizona. Video of FA:
The Widowmaker on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72574571)
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oK, must be near that Draw place on rampage by the look of it.
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it's not very close to the Draw, it's in a zone called the Flagstaff Hinterlands... I created a "treasure map" to share the locations of these climbing spots, widowmaker is at the very bottom of the list
http://goo.gl/maps/d3KAI (http://goo.gl/maps/d3KAI)
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Great map of a great area, so much cool climbing.
Is Chevelon Creek as good as East Clear Creek (which I thought was amazing).
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chevelon has wayyy better water soloing in my opinion, however the access is tougher because of big log-jams in the slot canyon..
east clear creek is a little more friendly and has easier climbs on cool arete type features, typically chevelon is more difficult thin face climbing and some of the landings are shallow.
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OK, might get back there someday, sounds awesome. We were in ECC late autumn so water level was low, and I touched bottom once on a big jump.
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festive
FIRST LIGHT Trailer a video by Duct Tape Then Beer and Arc'teryx (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-UiNc-orA4#ws)
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Me getting pretty damn close on my dws project. Have gotten a couple inches closer since.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152180210701103 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152180210701103)
Facebook but public.
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Me getting pretty damn close on my dws project. Have gotten a couple inches closer since.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152180210701103 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152180210701103)
Facebook but public.
So close! Looks an awesome line, you'll crush it soon for sure!
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Some sketchy footage of some classic Yorks highballs and trad routes:
Yorkshire Sketching on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/86271445)
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White Wedding goes down at Smith. This is a former 8b+ which is now 8b due to a mono which eroded away to become a 2 finger pocket on the crux
Drew Ruana redpointing White Wedding .13d/8b at Smith Rocks, Oregon (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWefoM6jYoE#ws)
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Some Moors stuff, really good stuff up there.
Escaping The Rains - Into The Moors on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/89897437)
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Here is To Bolt or Not to Be, hopefully of use for any challengers out there for beta!
To Bolt or Not to Be 5.14a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKdv-EN3Mg8#)
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Nan, that moors stuff looks totally awesome! Got me very inspired for a trip some time.
Thanks for the vid :great:
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Nan, that moors stuff looks totally awesome! Got me very inspired for a trip some time.
Thanks for the vid :great:
Come next weekend. Everyone is coming. Thousands of pads!!
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Couple of Malham catwalk crimp-fests:
4 Bolts - Malham on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/91956876)
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I'm putting this in "non-quality" because there's nothing cutting edge about it, but it nicely buggers up my onsights on several mid grade Frankenjura classics.
Frankenjura 2011 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/27969067)
Löwenherz in particular (at 06:00) is high on my to-do list: seems to be everybody's favourite 6c+.
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New linkup at Malham 'Vampire Sensation' yesterday, links Energy Vampire into Overnite via the Connect 5 finish
https://vimeo.com/94872967
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Vampire Sensation 8a+, Malham Cove, UK on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/94872967)
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A nice 5 bolt 5.13b from Smith. Jerry did the direct start to this called 'Jammaster J' in 1988 at 13d (8b)
https://vimeo.com/96447864 (https://vimeo.com/96447864)
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Oxygen 5.13b on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/96447864)
(Have to remove the 's' from 'https' on both YouTube and Vimeo URLs for them to embed).
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Nick Duttle - Hoax of Clocks on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/96707927)
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Nice solo with pretty scary landing:
https://vimeo.com/96657133
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Here is vid of a new 8b linkup from last month at the Tor. The 'new' bit (Kristian's excellent 7c Resistance) starts at 7:00. Props to Kristian for finding and bolting this line
Chimes of Resistance 8b on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/98183260)
I think I got it to embed correctly this time Slackers, 3rd time lucky!
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'that mad German'
For a sweaty bastard such as myself the conditions in this video look very good. it's been humid for at least a decade I think.
benno on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/99134365)
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Great. Sweaty fingers just watching.
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To add some spice to the current lancs bolt debate, I finally pulled my finger out and did a route/direct finish thats been on the slow burner for a good few years... Bit of an inpromptu belayer conducting an interview scenario going on. :blink: How things have changed from just doing it and sending it off to high to stick in the back ;D
Stained Steel E7 6c/7a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/100059350)
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Snippet of routes in Aus. Alot of these climbs are local to me.
Climb Australia on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/99612503)
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Just in case you forgot how good the crag from the recent Nina/Cedric video looked:
Moksha (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pwXwoNvHvY#ws)
How to decide whether to go there or Flatanger next summer?!
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Darwin says they should have both gone.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlby2g5FKQs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlby2g5FKQs)
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Here's a mate doing Balsa Boys 7a+ at Cala Mitjana in Mallorca.
"Balsa Boys" (7a+) Cala Mitjana, Mallorca on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/103453622)
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"http://vimeo.com/105499595"
Nick Bamber's short about Dave Toon climbing Chocolate Girl E7 6c Wilton 1, Lancashire
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error
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Jose crushing Mecca Extension 2 weeks ago
Jose - Mecca Extension 8c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2ACMe0KmSo#ws)
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The Beast of Bauston on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105747546)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nGdx1IGh48 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nGdx1IGh48)
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Meant to put that in quality, sorry!
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The Beast of Bauston on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105747546)
Good bit of Cromford area psyche there. :2thumbsup:
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Meant to put that in quality, sorry!
Not sure how a over the hill 40 something failing on an 8a could go in quality ;)
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One from Smith - Rude Boys 8a+
Rude Boys 5.13c/ 8a+ (Smith Rock) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGkJeSN9_4Q#ws)
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A couple from the North Yorkshire coast this summer
Smuggler's Terrace (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXJl4n03hkI#)
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15min Ousel's Nest trad climbing film, with contributions from Hank Pasquill, Dave Mann and Tim Greenhalgh. Routes VS-E6.
You might have to select high quality manually - it loads up as 480 for me, which looks a bit shoddy.
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/ousels-nest-routes?current-channel=climbing (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/ousels-nest-routes?current-channel=climbing)
(https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/ArticleImageHandler.ashx?id=6922&index=3&w=605&h=434)
I also wrote an article, which you can read here if you fancy it https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ousels-nest-makes-a-comeback (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ousels-nest-makes-a-comeback)
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Good stuff, nice sales pitch for an underrated crag. I'd go there!
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15min Ousel's Nest trad climbing film, with contributions from Hank Pasquill, Dave Mann and Tim Greenhalgh. Routes VS-E6.
You might have to select high quality manually - it loads up as 480 for me, which looks a bit shoddy.
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/ousels-nest-routes?current-channel=climbing (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/ousels-nest-routes?current-channel=climbing)
(https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/ArticleImageHandler.ashx?id=6922&index=3&w=605&h=434)
I also wrote an article, which you can read here if you fancy it https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ousels-nest-makes-a-comeback (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ousels-nest-makes-a-comeback)
nice one Robin, enjoyed that thanks
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Thanks guys. Put a fair bit of effort in to that one. Hank's commentary was a top piece of luck. He just happened to be at the crag and all I asked him to do was point the camera. Legend!
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Thanks guys. Put a fair bit of effort in to that one. Hank's commentary was a top piece of luck. He just happened to be at the crag and all I asked him to do was point the camera. Legend!
:agree:Some good climbs there Robin, great edit too.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9H8p6nl0vYo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9H8p6nl0vYo)
WACoS.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9H8p6nl0vYo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9H8p6nl0vYo)
WACoS.
No s :read: :spank:
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My bad. Click the link anyway. I wish I knew the climber in it. So I could rip the shit out of them. Forever.
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The real question is (presuming you have hair, are capable of sketching up a mid-grade route, and don't look like Ken Dodd) how much hard cash would it take for you accept the lifetime of ripping?
For me, not that much I reckon!
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What's the smallest large amount of money that an idiot would consider it worth totally humiliating themselves for?'
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ss-59fi4nM&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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I've uploaded my video from earlier to this year to vimeo, slightly better quality and in one part.
Posted in non-quality for the same reason my dad growls at nurses - tradition.
www.vimeo.com/109962062 (http://www.vimeo.com/109962062)
Sorry if this counts as a look at me repost
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Weak Steve McClure talks to his other dad, Keith 'Tenacious K' Sharples, about climbing and stuff, and getting a hold with the wrong hand on Rhapsody:
Keith Sharples in conversation with Steve McClure on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/113598331)
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Nice one, enjoyed that. He's good at making a rather boring subject (UK lime sport climbing) quite interesting!
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Long-time lurker - may even be my first post. Anyway, this is a video we made of a short trip to Lofoten. Hope you enjoy it. I think you'll have to watch on Vimeo for HD. Andy.
Fire Pillaren: Four Pillars of Lofoten on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/100746620)
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Nice!
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That's a fantastic film- proper festival award winning stuff in my opinion. Doesn't sound like you enjoyed it much from the voiceover though. I was relieved when it ended without one of you dying!
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Alpinebisou, that was great. Puts a lot of the sponsered stuff to shame, I guess you had plenty of time to film the non-climbing bits and think about it whilst the rain/mizzle stopped you climbing. Really made me want to go whilst also making me unsure whether I could put up with the weather.....
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Beautifully done, a masterpiece of subtlety, the subdued voice and sound compliment the scenery perfectly.
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Really enjoyed that. Excellent. This should definitely be in the Quality Video thread.
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Thanks all. We actually had fairly decent, but changeable, weather after the start. And the long days do help in getting things done when its unstable. Its a great place. I actually thought the Stetind area was better than Lofoten itself. Seemed like cleaner rock and loads more to do around there (we were only in that zone for the day really). Would love to go back to that area. Landscape in Lofoten is incredible though. The voiceover - we actually tried sending it to some random off the internet to do it for a few quid (literally). The result was just mega-cheese, so old misery guts here had to do it.
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Some of the walls around Stetind look amazing from afar, but is somewhat disappointing on closer inspection (Eidetind e.g.)
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One of the best. Really happy to get this done :)
The New Statesman E8 7a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/115389857)
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Excellent stuff. You made that look very straightforward.
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looks like you did the HVS version of the arete there
nice one
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Smashed its back door in.
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One would have thought that Gerty Berwick would have your name upon it, Will.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-G2NBkpTbY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-G2NBkpTbY)
Hard to categorise this but still worth watching. 22 years old too.
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That's f***ing Waddage!!!
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Some nice bits of footage, but gobsmackingly pretentious at times:
BLUETOPIA on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/114339723)
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I watched it at work without sound, looks so so good. Watched with sound at home and yikes! I'm off to go hang myself because my life can't compare.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-G2NBkpTbY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-G2NBkpTbY)
Hard to categorise this but still worth watching. 22 years old too.
Worth it for le Menestrel making Infidele look 1a. Fuck me.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-G2NBkpTbY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-G2NBkpTbY)
Hard to categorise this but still worth watching. 22 years old too.
Worth it for le Menestrel making Infidele look 1a. Fuck me.
+ 1
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I thought Hypothese was more impressive, not convinced his sequence on Infidele at 8a is any different to what now gets 7b+ on bleau.info!
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I thought Hypothese was more impressive, not convinced his sequence on Infidele at 8a is any different to what now gets 7b+ on bleau.info!
agree.
he mauls it.
ref: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-G2NBkpTbY#t=498 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-G2NBkpTbY#t=498)
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Infidele is 7b+ in the same way Sur-prise is. I.e. its 7c. Anyway, I missed Hypothese when I skimmed it first time, love the way he does the first move, scrappy on the second though ;)
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Good to hear him bumming footwork though, and walking what he talks. Amazing climber.
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Tempted to put this in quality because of the subject matter (route and climber :wub: ) but the outrageous screeching of the guy at the end tipped the balance, the dog looks far from impressed.....
Do not turn the volume up!
http://youtu.be/-ud-e0LQu8w (http://youtu.be/-ud-e0LQu8w)
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(route and climber :wub: )
+1, total crush :wub:
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http://youtu.be/Mk1Alz7sQb8 (http://youtu.be/Mk1Alz7sQb8)
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Someone give those guys a new rope, FFS.
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Someone give those guys a new rope, FFS.
yeah - I noticed that !!
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Shock Horror on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/62432739)
Not sure if we've had this before? Going through some recent grit ascents on UKC I noticed a massive amount of bellends headpointing E5s and E6s including all the usual safe ones, trade routes etc etc. I really though that bullshit had died out in the 90s, but ANYWAY nestled amongst the dross I saw this fine onsight ascent from Jacob so thought it was worth sharing.
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Why does headpointing a route make someone a bellend?
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Why does headpointing a route make someone a bellend?
Because its not what Fiend would do. :read:
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Headpointing is ace.
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Super plafond 8C+ Volx Séb Bouin (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm_rzmzHHZ8#ws)
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Because it's a naff, crass, pointless, challenge-avoiding waste of a route and one's climbing potential that is direspectful and demeaning to the route, any climber who climbs it normally or who intends to climb it normally (and has the brains and balls to leave it to a time until they are good enough), and even disrespectful to oneself by not giving yourself a chance to actually improve enough to meet the route's challenge. It trivalises the experience (especially the important psychological experience) and is contrary to the whole essence of a chosen climbing challenge, being, well, challenging. Especially in the case of obviously onsightable trade routes, especially in the case of habitual low-grade headpointers, and especially in the case of people who haven't even tried to push their limits in a conventional way and see what they are capable of.
Obviously this doesn't apply to: new routing (where the challenge is unknown), cutting edge routes (where there is no precedent for current onsighting) nor early repeats / repeats of esoteric /scarcely climbed routes (where the challenge may be different from what is expected).
Conversely, the actions of those who avoid the headpointing pitfall and tackle the full challenges and push their own limits and sometimes the general climbing limits are glorious and respect-worthy and inspiring. As if that needs to be said*.
Hope that helps.
* - but I'll keep praising them anyway, if nobody minds.
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Headpointing is ace.
:agree:
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Wow, first time Fiend has said something I support. Not that headpointing is no good (first headpoint I did was Black Magic way back - man, I was floating for days afterwards, chuffed out of my mind) but because onsighting is so blooming hard and I believe neglected nowadays.
There's stacks of Peak frighteners I could tick with a toprope inspection first. They'll have to wait till I get better or bolder.
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Better, bolder, or just never do them. I think Fiend is being really harsh.
If I think I can flash, on-sight or ground-up something then I'll go for it. Some routes are just too hard or dangerous for that. I'd rather headpoint something than never do it.
Everyone knows their limits, sometimes you have to bring a route down to your level to get it done.
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Is bring it down to your limit to "get it done" actually really any better than not doing it?
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I like onsighting. I also like redpointing. Back when I was a trad climber I mainly liked onsighting, but also liked headpointing.
Fiend, the irony of your post is that most people who are devout trad onsighters have so little concept of what it means to push their own limits. Most of your points are about challenge, but there's no inherent reason why a headpoint should be more/less challenging than an onsight - your points really only apply to people headpointing things which are easy for them, but the same could be leveled at people onsighting things which are easy for them.
Out of interest, if you sport climb (or were to sport climb), do you feel the same about redpointing?
Is bring it down to your limit to "get it done" actually really any better than not doing it?
As someone who redpoints sport routes quite often, I can confirm that 'bringing routes down to my limit' is, in many cases, a tremendously enjoyable experience.
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Is bring it down to your limit to "get it done" actually really any better than not doing it?
Are you serious?
Is doing it better than not doing it? Really? :lol:
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Yes I'm serious. Why is that so surprising?
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I'm not saying 100% agreement with everything in Fiend's post , just glad that he's banging the drum for onsighting as it gets overlooked. i have a ticklist on grit which is mostly aspirational onsights. If I acknowledge I'm not going to get there I'll toprope them and have a think about whether to headpoint them or abandon them.
nb onsighting - term's a bit bit blurry now, I want to 'onsight' routes I've seen videos of for example, so maybe GU would be the better term.
Abarro, sure, but others push themselves quite hard on trad gear too.
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Yes I'm serious. Why is that so surprising?
I just don't understand your thinking. Of course climbing a hard or dangerous route is better than not climbing it at all, regardless of the style you choose to do it in.
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Is bring it down to your limit to "get it done" actually really any better than not doing it?
for me - Yes. I want to climb everything I physically can. and if that means TR'ing, Headpointing, or some such, I will.
As long as it's at my limit, I'm pushing my boundry in one way or another. Whether that be repointing, onsighting, sport, trad, boulder, highball, etc.
Obviously, as long as what you do doesn't diminish the options for others.
Because it's a naff, crass, pointless, challenge-avoiding waste of a route and one's climbing potential that is direspectful and demeaning to the route, any climber who climbs it normally or who intends to climb it normally (and has the brains and balls to leave it to a time until they are good enough), and even disrespectful to oneself by not giving yourself a chance to actually improve enough to meet the route's challenge. It trivalises the experience (especially the important psychological experience) and is contrary to the whole essence of a chosen climbing challenge, being, well, challenging. Especially in the case of obviously onsightable trade routes, especially in the case of habitual low-grade headpointers, and especially in the case of people who haven't even tried to push their limits in a conventional way and see what they are capable of.
So you're throwing a fit and saying "You can't play on the playground unless you play my way." :tease:
My risk tolerance before I got married was vastly different than when I had young kids, which is different than now.
Why should my risk rolerance match yours? I have great respect for those who push new boundaries, but I certainly don't find it disrespectful if someone headpoint a route I established, regardless of how. I've had friends TR highballs that I established ground up to suss out the beta, and I'm glad they did. I don't find it disrespectful at all. If anything, it's a sign of respect, as they are ackowledging the boldness of what went before.
Conversely, the actions of those who avoid the headpointing pitfall and tackle the full challenges and push their own limits and sometimes the general climbing limits are glorious and respect-worthy and inspiring. As if that needs to be said*.
Hope that helps.
* - but I'll keep praising them anyway, if nobody minds.
And you should continue this.
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To start with, there's headpointing and there's headpointing - as a term it covers a very wide continuum in styles. Second, onsighting and headpointing are not mutually exclusive. I might have been seen as something of a head pointer in the 1990s - but I was actually doing much more onsighting. That's probably true for lots of people. Finally, there are probably very few headpoints that I really, really regret (in that I should have saved them)
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Didn't realise you'd flashed the joker Dave. Good effort.
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Didn't realise you'd flashed the joker Dave. Good effort.
Now you're just being daft to prove a non-existent point.
My point is if people are using the language like "bring it down to my level" then implicit in that is the acknowledgement that the challenge has been somewhat reduced, diminished, avoided, compared to whatever your initial perception of the challenge. Your words not mine (well, Will's words, but you get the point).
Now in some cases you might be alright with avoiding challeneges, and we all do it to some extent, but that's up to each person to judge themselves against whatever challenge it is. But if you're saying "brought it down to my level" then you've already judged yourself. Clearly the closer to whatever your percieved personal limit you get the easier that avoidance of challenge is going to be to reconcile with yourself.
To address the rather crazy Joker example, then if my mental picture of me doing the joker was to flash it (which it never was) then even so I did at some point in the past attempt to flash it, so the worst you could call that was a failure to flash it. You couldn't say that was brought down to my level by eventually doing it, quite the opposite.
On the other hand if there was a route that I'd always held in some esteem, always wanted to do in a particular style, then decided to not make an attempt that way and instead to take some tactic to reduce the challenge, then that would be different.
As I say, I'm no judging nobody, it's everyone own decision, but I find it just interesting, and perhaps telling, when people defend headpointing yet refer to it as "bringing down to my level" which is exactly one of the main reasons many folk avoid it.
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Sorry, I'd not noticed Will had used that phase, I'd thought it was you and Fiend using it, perhaps partly just presumed that since it's usually the anti-headpoint brigade who term it like that. Personally I think it's a dumb phrase, which is why I picked up on it, my mistake! I'll punter Will for it.
I'd certainly concur that for some things I'd want to onsight them, or at least try them onsight, and headpointing would feel hollow and like a cop-out, as would not going 100% for an onsight on a sport route and just going for a tactical 2nd go redpoint. For other things it would feel ace.
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Is bring it down to your limit to "get it done" actually really any better than not doing it?
I think bringing it down to 'a level' to get it done is what climbers do and have always done.
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Is bring it down to your limit to "get it done" actually really any better than not doing it?
I think bringing it down to 'a level' to get it done is what climbers do and have always done.
That's a better way of putting it, I agree.
All I'm trying to say is that if you really want to climb a route that's beyond what you think is your on-sighting capability then there is nothing wrong with headpointing it. Headpointing a route, in my opinion, is definitely a greater achievement than not doing at all.
I've only headpointed a couple of routes, but the ones I have done are routes that really stand out for me, and if I didn't top rope them first I'd never get on the sharp end and get them done.
Headpointing is still a massive challenge, it can be more nerve racking than going for the flash or on-sight. You definitely have more time to think about what your going to do, and what could happen if it goes tits up.
I've got a big list of routes I would like to do and I intend to headpoint the majority of them, regardless of what Fiend thinks :P
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I'm not saying 100% agreement with everything in Fiend's post , just glad that he's banging the drum
I'm not glad. I'm just amazed it's not worn out yet.
He's banged it more times than that cunt in the Sheffield Wednesday/England "band" and it's just as fucking tedious.
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re: headpointing diminishing the challenge. A headpoint of a really hard/bold route may be 'easier' than onsighting that route, and in that sense diminish the challenge, but headpointing can allow you to have a hard/bold experience that you wouldn't be able to have otherwise, if you would never go for an onsight of that route.
e.g a fictional e8 7a route that I would never consider going for the onsight on, I might headpoint and then get to experience 7a tech grade above a groundfall. I would never get to experience that hard/bold challenge otherwise.
So, in that sense, headpointing actually enables someone to increase the challenge they experience, even though in another sense it does diminish the challenge of the route.
This is of course supposing that the value of climbing lies in its challenge. Some people might find the experience of routes (for their movement, situation, history etc) as valuable as, or more valuable than, the challenge, and if that's the case then headpointing allows them to have more 'valuable' experiences, in which case it is a good thang.
That said, I'm all against headpointing where it diminishes the potential for onsights, e.g great slab routes at froggatt.
(nb I don't climb e8 or 7a)
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I dont get what the problem is?
Headpointing is fine, toproping is fine, Simon Lee grabbing the chains is fine, Andy Cave pre-clipping the third bolt on chimes is fine, as long as there's no prestidigitation. Its just climbing a rock ffs!
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There is no such thing as "bringing a route down to one's level" except for chipping it.
I only know about "bringing myself up to the route's level", with hours of training and swearing.
The mental toughness (illness) that is required by long term projects goes beyond any onsight effort. Working a project for years, falling dozen of times in the same move, it's a hell on Earth. It's like preparing yourself for your hardest onsight attempt, only for hundreds of times, again and again. Sleepless nights, hours and hours of training, trying to find that little edge to gain one move. You must love the process to stick at it, because the joy of the successful ascent - if it ever comes - pales in comparison of the suffering to obtain it and leaves you competely empy both physically and metally, swearing "Never again!".
As for "headpointing vs onsighting" debate...
"I scarcely recall a commandment; nothing appears to me in the form of a law. There is an instinct which giudes me and always leads me to do what is right. I freely follow my inner dispositions and know as little of restrictions as of repentance."
Just go climb.
Sorry for the rant.
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There is no such thing as "bringing a route down to one's level" except for chipping it.
I only know about "bringing myself up to the route's level", with hours of training and swearing.
+1
:clap2:
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That totally sidesteps the fact that many onsight or ground up attempts are the culmination of years of build up, training, mileage on the rock, climbing similar routes, mental conditioning, learning to place gear efficiently etc etc.
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Yes, but the onsight in itself can be only one.
So, years and years of preparation culminate in one attempt.
On extreme redpoints, years and years of preparation culminate in many attempts, with bigger tension buildup.
I'm not trying to give a judgement on the intrinsic value of the two styles.
As I said, I'm a big fan of "do what you like but preserve the rock".
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There's a difference between a "quick headpoint" of a bold route, which is technically quite easy and therefore not that hard once rehearsed, and a headpoint near your physical limit. The former I have found to be fairly unfulfilling and as such I haven't done many. Plus I've walked away from a few due to lack of psyche. In my experience, the latter is different, but no less challenging than a hard on-sight. If someone boulders 7A max and headpoints End of the Affair, then that's a fantastic effort. If they boulder 7C then it's not.
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There is no such thing as "bringing a route down to one's level" except for chipping it.
I only know about "bringing myself up to the route's level", with hours of training and swearing.
That's great. What's missing is that "bringing myself up to the route's level" includes an acknowledgement of the ascent style which is currently relevant for the route.
do what you like but preserve the rock
Amen. My big beef with top-roping was always seeing punters scrabbling about on routes which, in the case of gritstone, are actually quite fragile things.
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agree with nibs points, even though i'd say that an onsight (or flash) attempt can be mentally very challenging as well, under special circumstances - basically anything that would raise the anxiety levels and the obsession about not failing it.
examples: bold route/highball, competition, route "saved" for such an attempt and having a special emotional value for any reason.
also agree (although with limited experience) on the "quick headpoint" thing pointed out in the last post. Similarly, the "quick redpoint" is certainly a demonstration of climbing mastery and tactical efficiency but not of special "sports psychology" talents or will to suffer in this sense.
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Obviously this doesn't apply to: new routing (where the challenge is unknown), cutting edge routes (where there is no precedent for current onsighting) nor early repeats / repeats of esoteric /scarcely climbed routes (where the challenge may be different from what is expected).
A lot of people seem to have missed this bit, and gone off banging their own drums?
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In summary...
Horses for courses, some people prefer one style of ascent over another, for others its the opposite, some are capable of seeing the benefits and enjoyment from all forms. No one opinion is superior to the other and as long as the activity isn't detrimental to future generations enjoyment and they are honest in their reporting people can do whatever they like (but don't expect Fiend to watch our video if it involves headpointing below E9).
Thats it until the topic resurrects itself in X months time and the same ground will be covered yet again.
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UKB is a cool place. I love you all guys, this could be possibly due to the fact that I got great news from work and I'm getting drunk with whisky and soda before acting in a musical, but really, thisis cool.
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Whiskey with soda that's worse than head pointing.
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Not if it's Jack Daniel's.
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Yes that's more like just top roping.
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UKB is a cool place. I love you all guys, this could be possibly due to the fact that I got great news from work and I'm getting drunk with whisky and soda before acting in a musical, but really, thisis cool.
Sounds like a YYFY :)
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[quote
Amen. My big beef with top-roping was always seeing punters scrabbling about on routes which, in the case of gritstone, are actually quite fragile things.
[/quote]
I read an interview with JD in climber recently in which he described a similar opinion about grit routes that lots of people are trying ground up with pads with repeated falls / attempts causing damage to the rock, particularly on slabs. The routes aren't always being tried by punters and often climbers describe this as a superior style of ascent. I have generally been in the onsight / ground up camp of ascent styles, but I definitley saw his point. Top roping could potentially have a positive effect for the rock for some routes.
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It's a good point.
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JD made that point in Peak Rock and used Angel's Share as an example. It's horseshit. Angel's share is about the only hard slab that doesn't rely on pebbles. I've climbed on that slab a lot over 15 years, and I haven't noticed any damage other than over-enthusiastic brushing - most of which which was done on abseil/ top-rope, JD's brush among them. The 'point' is a just supposition that sounds reasonable. The reality is it's a lot harder to damage holds whilst in extremis trying not to fall twenty feet onto pads than it is whilst hanging on a rope trying every which way. There are lots of examples - Braille Trail, Smoked Salmon, Benign Lives, all the lower tier Roaches routes etc etc - which back up the reality.
What really bothers JD about Angel's Share is he thinks he did a harder sequence and no one has repeated his original feat. And of course he did it in a position of greater danger. It may be true.
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That's cleared that up then.
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2015 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7IXXZnOQCA#ws)
no pebbles were harmed in the making of this video
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Awesome, FoE looks desparate, great effort :great:
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Quality.
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Cool though I was a little confused as not only were there scenes where you were wearing a plain jumper one of them you weren't wearing Ronhill's!
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Non Quality tradding from the Lancs camp, from last years Wilton fest....
https://vimeo.com/123769568 (https://vimeo.com/123769568)
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Love that real time family type vibe.... And well filmed. Simple, exciting and what it's really like. Nice one.
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Yes, its a great feel eh, .. its Dave's little girl in the back ground also. Its great fun filming from up on the routes, done a few now.. great 'angle' to see it all, right on the action, certainly live the experience a lot more. This is also great vid that was put together, of Dave's big efforts over the summer to do Chocolate Girl, I was up on the rope when he did it.. totally gripped..
https://vimeo.com/105499595 (https://vimeo.com/105499595)
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Yeah was a good angle on that Clean Sweep for sure! Good effort by Datoon, both saving it and doing it in the end, could really feel the pump near the end.
I was just out of shot watching, I think I'd annoyed David earlier by confusing him with nik-at-work. In my defence I might have been a bit dopey from driving Glasgow - Chorley - Langdale - Shipley the previous day (which might also explain general punterage at the 'fest).
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Ahh... haha, there was a lot of confused people stumbling about that morning. I seem to remember speaking to you myself? but thanks to the BMC and the free barrel of beer they left with us the night before :strongbench:... I remember zilch about that day.. other than the occasional abseil and sleeping in bilberry bushes.
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Yup you did. You were quite tall. Bilberry bush bed sounds like a good call.
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Why would anybody get annoyed about being confused with me? Actually, maybe don't answer that...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yczxqv30Cf4&feature=youtu.be
edit: Jakob Schubert on fight or flight 9b. P.S. sorry, not sure how to embed!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yczxqv30Cf4&feature=youtu.be
Nice vid that... like the way his elbows come up when he works it really hard in the first section...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yczxqv30Cf4&feature=youtu.be
edit: Jakob Schubert on fight or flight 9b. P.S. sorry, not sure how to embed!
take the s out of the https in the url and it does it for you ;D
Great vid, amazing looking rock
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https://vimeo.com/125775981
Yey! I didn't break my legs!
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I like the timeliness of the Adrenaline Rush caption popping up.
#shudder
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https://vimeo.com/124331238
Ramirole cave looks rather good
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https://vimeo.com/125775981
Yey! I didn't break my legs!
Fucking hell... That looks awful! Respect you are walking... Never mind the MTFU to go back and complete. Respect.
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https://vimeo.com/chequepictures/stonnistrailer
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That's looking really good.
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Wrong thread, quality!
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Cheers! Reposting so it embeds. Turns out Vimeo clips don't embed if you use a custom URL. I've added this knowledge to the wiki. :ang:
https://vimeo.com/126981723
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Looks lovely cheque.
But please use a different typeface in the full film (/nit picking)
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Can't wait for this. Nice one!
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But please use a different typeface in the full film (/nit picking)
Which typeface don't you like Duma?
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I'd hazard a guess at the comic sans chalkboard style one...
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Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too- I made it myself 'cos I couldn't find one that looked how I wanted (I wanted one that looked like the graffiti chipped in the top of the crag) but it hasn't really come out as I hoped.
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You can please some of the people some of the time, but you can't please all the people all of the time
Its your film, do whatever you like.
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Looks great. Get it in the quality thread where it belongs!
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Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too- I made it myself 'cos I couldn't find one that looked how I wanted (I wanted one that looked like the graffiti chipped in the top of the crag) but it hasn't really come out as I hoped.
cut out photos of the chipped letters in a ransom note style
invoice in the post
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Looks brilliant. I've no great beef with the typeface, but I found the music level a bit high compared to the voices.
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Nice soft catch...
http://vimeo.com/127939980
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Whilst I was sat on the top of The Old Man of Hoy a few weeks ago someone was flying a drone around from the mainland. He's finally finished editing the footage. No actual climbing unfortunately, apparently it was too shady on the East Face route we were climbing for the footage to come out, but a nice memento of a fabulous days climbing. Far better conditions than two days previously when I chose not to climb as it was grey, overcast, windy and cold. Two of my friends did the South Face route anyway (and the couple with the kids waving at the camera did the East Face route) and after the second pitch it started raining and didn't stop for another seven hours until we were all back at the bothy in Rackwick (I hung around for that time in case there was a problem and had to chose between wet & out of the wind or dry and windy).
http://vimeo.com/128087090
The footage was shot by Jason Baxter (http://www.jasonbaxter.net/) and he asked if I'd be interested in being filmed climbing some other routes as he wants to build his portfolio up of this sort of work (I think he's got a license for flying drones). He's based in the Scottish Borders and if anyone is interested in working with him let me know and I'll put you in touch (I can't commit the time to such a trip this year).
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Very mellow edit, nice.
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That was nice :) did anyone else notice a lot of tearing (presumably from digital image stabilisation) or was it just my PC?
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uPIjWFJwbU
The new Iranian route on Tsaranoro, 8b/A2.
Their report is useful for planning a trip to the area
http://www.planetmountain.com/itinerari/files/Rock/pdf/thechangeexperience.pdf
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Bit of a strange YouTube rabbit hole find:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7zY8SugOAY (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7zY8SugOAY)
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Here is Mike Doyle attempting Just Do It (I sped up all the boring resting bits)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HwP6LqvM-c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HwP6LqvM-c)
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The usual non-quality video, but a quality route. Terry and his crew have several E5-6 projects on this buttress but had only just checked this line on a whim, and it turned out to be a lot easier than expected:
http://vimeo.com/136236532
The Bilberry Hunter E4 6a ** 10m
A good climb with a bold start and bouldery finish, and good cams in-between. Spring onto the first rail just right of (??? the E4 5c), carefully gain the first break and then the second break on satisfying holds. A thoughtful crux on layaways leads to the finishing jug.
(named after the third man, who was easily distracted by local flora)
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A few from this summer in the North Yorkshire Moors
https://vimeo.com/136418799
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Here is Bricktop 8b climbed by Jon Freeman yesterday at Cheedale Cornice, (including a little homage to 96 and the Real Thing)
vimeo.com/137078400 (http://vimeo.com/137078400)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oMXS3Ik1VA&feature=youtu.be
Shaky footage and mixed editing, but definitely a quality route....
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little edit from my trip to the wind river range...
http://vimeo.com/140584622
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little edit from my trip to the wind river range...
Very cool - I really liked that.
I hope to get to the Wind Rivers one day...
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Never heard of it before but really captures the beauty of the place, looks great. :clap2:
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A few from this summer in the North Yorkshire Moors
https://vimeo.com/136418799
Somehow, I'd totally missed this one. Enjoyed it. I'm always a sucker for some sandstone and esoterica and all of these looked interesting. Really enjoyed the Wind River one too. I remember Pingora from when I first read Roper and Steck's Fifty Classic Climbs of North American many years ago.
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpHlF8w1GFo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpHlF8w1GFo)
Spank the Monkey 5.12R on the Monkey Face, Smith Rock, Oregon, USA!
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Here are some redpoint attempts/ links on Just Do It!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMzeVtwOdb8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMzeVtwOdb8)
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Here's something I've been working on, will be finished by January :)
http://vimeo.com/146398276
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A worthy venture for sure, needs more dramatic music though.
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A vid from the summer of Liam flashing Chocolate Girl in Wilton 1, pumpy and burly E7..
https://vimeo.com/147035622 (https://vimeo.com/147035622)
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Good effort, improved styles on harder routes are always quality. Although it's a bit odd to have "Onsight/Flash" on the video intro for an abseil inspected attempt...
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Quality climbing by Alan Carne, non-quality camera shake by myself, enjoy.
https://vimeo.com/148069803
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Nice one, good clear footage of the layback, had me sweating a bit.
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Quality climbing by Alan Carne, non-quality camera shake by myself, enjoy.
https://vimeo.com/148069803
Nice! Enjoyed that, thanks for filming and sharing!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNdd_7aCOig&feature=share
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Here's the film I shot in Arkansas last September. I tried to make it about the area and the locals rather than my trip but there's a bit of me failing to cope with the heat in there too.
https://vimeo.com/153706896
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Thanks Cheque, that was great.
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Happy to get my hardest flash this week :)
https://vimeo.com/155109263
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Does chuffing mean bouldering? I'm confused
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Does chuffing mean bouldering? I'm confused
Made an error!
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
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Not the most amazing quality, but I quite like unedited footage of onsight attempts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkBpjjTOKM4
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I like it too. Possibly dumb question, what is the route?
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From A Distance, Pembroke.
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And close up? :)
Thanks
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Just found some shaky clips from Kyrgyzstan on a hard drive and thought I should finally edit them together:
https://vimeo.com/157512667
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Mate doing his first 8b last winter.
http://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_EoVcsF7_gsaThvTEl1cWhJT0k
No idea why they uploaded it to google drive and not youtube or vimeo..... :spank:
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Just found some shaky clips from Kyrgyzstan on a hard drive and thought I should finally edit them together:
https://vimeo.com/157512667
Having read your trip report I was expecting some hardship but fuck me that's an adventure, yikes! I take it you'll be going to Majorca instead for the next, say, 20 years?
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Just found some shaky clips from Kyrgyzstan on a hard drive and thought I should finally edit them together:
https://vimeo.com/157512667
I take it you'll be going to Majorca instead for the next, say, 20 years?
I didn't even trad climb for about two years afterwards, it wasn't what you'd call a gentle introduction to bigwall expeditions. I definitely caught the bug though - I had a wonderfully grim time with a portaledge in the Brazilian jungle last year and I might even be going back to Kyrgyzstan this summer... :)
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Have to say I really enjoyed the Kyrgyzstan film - a nice reminder of what climbing's all about.
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The scenery looks mindblowing.
If you don't mind/can be arsed could you let me know the logistics of the trip? Feel free to post on here or on the 'long,hard,free' thread as it would be agreat resource to have.
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Kyrgyz film is brilliant.
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Lucky to only break his leg...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=susAObvqTH8
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Christ. Ouch.
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The scenery looks mindblowing.
If you don't mind/can be arsed could you let me know the logistics of the trip? Feel free to post on here or on the 'long,hard,free' thread as it would be agreat resource to have.
Hi Guy, logistics aren't too bad - you need to drive to a place called Vorukh (we got taxis), then there's about 45km uphill walk to get to the valley. A company called Ak Sai often have a base camp there for the season, you can buy camping gas from them and get them to cook you dinner, but you'll need to take provisions with you.
http://www.ak-sai.com/en/base-camps/karavshin
Actually if you pay Ak Sai lots of money they will helicopter you and your stuff in to the valley, if you pay them a small amount of money they will organise donkeys to carry your stuff for you. In our case, their donkeys never showed up and we had to hire donkeys from the local garrison instead.
I would strongly recommend taking someone who speaks passable Russian, as well as some bottles of decent vodka for bribes....
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The scenery looks mindblowing.
If you don't mind/can be arsed could you let me know the logistics of the trip? Feel free to post on here or on the 'long,hard,free' thread as it would be agreat resource to have.
Cheers / Спасибо
Hi Guy, logistics aren't too bad - you need to drive to a place called Vorukh (we got taxis), then there's about 45km uphill walk to get to the valley. A company called Ak Sai often have a base camp there for the season, you can buy camping gas from them and get them to cook you dinner, but you'll need to take provisions with you.
http://www.ak-sai.com/en/base-camps/karavshin
Actually if you pay Ak Sai lots of money they will helicopter you and your stuff in to the valley, if you pay them a small amount of money they will organise donkeys to carry your stuff for you. In our case, their donkeys never showed up and we had to hire donkeys from the local garrison instead.
I would strongly recommend taking someone who speaks passable Russian, as well as some bottles of decent vodka for bribes....
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Cheers / Спасибо
The one sentence that I memorised was 'извините, у меня нет денег - я альпинист' :D
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Cheers / Спасибо
The one sentence that I memorised was 'извините, у меня нет денег - я альпинист' :D
ha ha, in what context was that?
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Haggling with taxi drivers!
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Rather happy to get this done before moving to Australia this June. Wasn't sure if it was going to happen. Feels a step up from the New Statesman, in terms of danger and difficulty. Not sure why Statesman has gone in the new guide at E9?!? :-\
https://vimeo.com/163840362
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That's a fine note to leave on. Top effort. What's drawing you over to Australia? Fish?
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Great work Will :) a tasty lobb and a brilliant victory paddy on top!
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moving to Australia this June
give Rex Hunt a kiss from me
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Good work fishminister! Waddage tune!
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Waddage tune!
:agree:
heck yeah
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Haha, cheers, thought a few of you might like the tunage.
moving to Australia this June
give Rex Hunt a kiss from me
Definitely going to befriend Rex, but I can't go in for the kiss straight away, that'd be a bit weird........ :-*
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Nice one Will. For my money that's probably the best line on grit. Great effort by Robin back in the day.
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What Dave said :bounce:
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:agree:
Absolute belter of a line in a great location.
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Great stuff Will, double rock 8s was it?
That's a route you won't ever forget doing!
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Great stuff Will, double rock 8s was it?
That's a route you won't ever forget doing!
Cheers, I definitely won't be forgetting it in a hurry.
I used a rock 12 and a sideways 10, bomber placements, but I really wouldn't like to test the fall from any higher than I did :ohmy:
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Bit nut choices hey. I went for smaller so I could have more room from shaking out etc. Glad to see you didn't come off higher, looked bad enough as it was!
I thought coming round the lower wall to the pocket was wiggy too.
Nice one again.
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That's a fine note to leave on. Top effort. What's drawing you over to Australia? Fish?
Cheers.
The Mrs is starting a fellowship at the new hospital in Perth. We will probably be away for at least 18 months, maybe more.
There's a good chance I might be doing a spot of fishing :fishing:
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That's a fine note to leave on. Top effort. What's drawing you over to Australia? Fish?
Cheers.
The Mrs is starting a fellowship at the new hospital in Perth. We will probably be away for at least 18 months, maybe more.
There's a good chance I might be doing a spot of fishing :fishing:
Nice. I have some good friends who have just returned from such a trip for the same reasons. I reckon you'll love it but you'll be back home eventually. There's no place like home. Happy travels
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Something to get you psyched for this years cornice scene. Lost footage recently found.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7U1aLsV4GLs
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There's a good chance I might be doing a spot of fishing :fishing:
My brother in Townsville is out in his fishing kayak a fair bit, lands some amazing things.
Good effort Will, line of my dreams. "Best day ever on grit"?
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There's a good chance I might be doing a spot of fishing :fishing:
My brother in Townsville is out in his fishing kayak a fair bit, lands some amazing things.
Good effort Will, line of my dreams. "Best day ever on grit"?
Cheers, definitely the best thing I've done on the grit, don't think there's a better line to do, is there?
I will be looking into getting a kayak, or a small boat, there are some good fish to be had. There's a bouldering area about 2 hours south of Perth called Copper Rocks, right on the coast, fishing and climbing at the same time, heaven :2thumbsup:
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I've got ex-climbing mates based in Perth but they are all cyclists / triathletes / kite surfers now.
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November!
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Here is an excellent 8a+ at Smith Rock called Lucky Pigeon, the 1st and last 3rd's of the legendary Patrick Edlinger 8b+ White Wedding
www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCEdW8N8hj4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCEdW8N8hj4)
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Here is La Connection (Upper Variant) 8b from Kilnsey (links Dalliance into the top of Grooved Arete)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUtPDlFJoJ0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUtPDlFJoJ0)
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Mini yyfy and a wee video of the route, since there aren't many online for Dumbuck.
https://vimeo.com/174742867
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKxN1S9EYaw
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKxN1S9EYaw
Looking forward to checking this crag out next year, sounds pretty spicy getting to it though
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JC's new video of me and his efforts on ape index.It'sfuckinggreasy!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEgT0MQsDuI
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JC's new video of me and his efforts on ape index.It'sfuckinggreasy!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEgT0MQsDuI
Quality
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http://vimeo.com/185276699
Warning - contains jet-skiing to the crag footage (read comments before expressing outrage).
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first thing I thought before watching it was "what if you drop an axe?"
second thought was "how do you swim whilst carrying 2 axes?"
they made floating axes!
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https://vimeo.com/186148100
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haha just posted all three in the quality section... I thought they were pretty good...
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Yeah I meant to post in the quality thread tbh!
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UKB's very own Gus having a right old time on a quick Peak Lime head point
http://vimeo.com/189420691
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Really enjoyed that video of private gripped, glad I watched it to the end to! I made this short stop motion on Sunday while the x-factor was on. Not sure where to post it. I thought about having a sort of tongue in cheek look at sports psychology in climbing at some point.
https://vimeo.com/189552586
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Go pro footage worth seeing (just a few seconds, so you want get ill)
http://vimeo.com/188436503
Run out!
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Kinda nice seeing Arch Ememies and Chimes roof (sans block) being done from down here in Oz so many years later.
Any films of Boot Boys, Thormen's or Knockin' floating around?
Cheers all,
Happy-as as to be their 'daddy'.
Wishing everyone well,
Cheers,
AP. xx
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Knockin is in this film @ 27:48
https://vimeo.com/109962062 (https://vimeo.com/109962062)
(as an aside, Boot Boys still sees very few attempts/ascents, despite being at such a popular crag).
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How fucking good does Dynamics Of Change look, every time it's shown. Best hard line on grit etc etc?
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I really enjoyed this one from James Turnbull
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ2M8ti9lhs
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https://youtu.be/jd8VT7PfO1A
Pure comedy gold
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Something for Nothing 8c at Malham
www.youtube.com/watch?v=crXM6gPyg0Q (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crXM6gPyg0Q)
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Here is a video I put together of True North 8c at Kilnsey
youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=epaW9492-N0 (http://youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=epaW9492-N0)
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Sorry folks, wrong link posted above! :wall: Here is the right one. youtube.com/watch?v=epaW9492-N0 (http://youtube.com/watch?v=epaW9492-N0)
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Hi thought I'd share my recent non-quality impressionistic vid of my holiday chuffing in the Frankenjura.
Criticism and general views gratefully received ;)
Watch this video on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/theprojectmagazine/frankenjurapostcard. Don’t have the Vimeo app? Get it from the App Store: http://bit.ly/vimeo_ios
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Hi thought I'd share my recent non-quality impressionistic vid of my holiday chuffing in the Frankenjura.
Criticism and general views gratefully received ;)
Watch this video on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/theprojectmagazine/frankenjurapostcard. Don’t have the Vimeo app? Get it from the App Store: http://bit.ly/vimeo_ios
I started out enjoying this, then found the soundtrack too much, with that as a soundtrack you can film anything, crisp packet blowing in the wind, man at bus stop and you get poignancy. Saying that I liked the 'orme' video from a few weeks ago. What is the referencing of film about, I know you shoot on film sometimes. Shot on film, rendered digitally, I don't get it though? Is it a nostalgia? or a belief that film captures something unlike digital. If its the latter then surely it should be shown as film.
Would the analogue photographic/film process, unlike the digital, produce different results and ask different questions? The image would look on the surface the same but the potential interpretation of the image could be contested differently. The analogue image has a link tangibly and temporally to a notion of the ‘real’ world. However the digital image has the potential to be endlessly deconstructed and re-assembled. The digital image in one sense erodes the presence of an object and the link between the reality and the image becomes eroded or absent in the digital.
Parisella's cave or Plato's cave... anyhow I'm so bored with most of the current videos of bouldering it's a pleasure to watch something that makes you think a bit.
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Hey Andy, that's an amazing response and questions. You're right about the soundtrack of course which was a personal thing and I did do an edit to a Max Richter piano piece which I'll stick on my Vimeo account at some point. From the personal perspective I liked the link to wish you were here referencing Sid Barrett's loss of sanity and his psychedelic drug use, apparently his mates used to spike his cups of tea with lsd. Anyway this had personal links to the 90's acid culture and how I got into rock climbing. Re the film digital thing. I do have a genuine fascination with analogue footage having recently started buying kit for home developing and even as a 'digital intermediate' i feel it has an entirely different feel which is just desperate to recreate purely digitally. An then there is the actual use of the camera and film with little or no budget and at Ł65 a roll it's amazing how it makes you focus what to point the camera at. There's this guy on Vimeo 'Adrian cousins' who creates amazing pieces from out of date home processed film, worth checking out for the geeks out there. I know what you mean about the nostalgia thing and that is often cited as a reason for using super 8 it not for me in this case, in fact if I were to be truly nostalgic I'd film it on vhs, which has its own fans out there. In the blurb I mentioned this artist Tacita Dean who works it 16mm and what she said about the unexpected aspects of using film. There's an amazing interview with her on the Kodakery podcast which puts it way better than I can. And I really see the irony in putting this all out there digitally and via social media etc, goes against my grain really but how else could it be done?
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Dan, didn't enjoy it as much as this one.
https://vimeo.com/205299994 (https://vimeo.com/205299994)
I'm no Barry Norman or Jonathan Ross but the music added to the bleakness for me of Llandudno/Orme. If the music is obscure, not mainstream then think that adds additional layer.
The Frankenjura images were great, the way you create your shorts is always creative.
In this one the combination of digital/analogue got me thinking like Andy about film production. But the birdsong/music didn't work for me.The sound was meshed together without adding anything.
In reply to Andy there is something about analogue film that digital can't create.
The variables, chance exposure, focus, throw up unexpected results.
Even when analogue film is processed artefacts are added/created.
A lot of this was discussed on the video rig thread.
If I had the ability and resources, a beautifully shot and lit b/w analogue film short would be ace. Picture in my head of heavy sky with the sun breaking through onto beautiful limestone/grit. Maybe no sound, a silent film or simply natural sound. The whites crystal clear, blacks velvety.
Keep up the great work Dan
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Interestly the music from that one was taken from an artist portraying the development of Alzheimer's disease through sound / music.
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Interestly the music from that one was taken from an artist portraying the development of Alzheimer's disease through sound / music.
Amazing, I want to Llandudno loads as a child, your film gave me flickers of past memories. The music choice definitely helped/was inspired, in that the memory fades over time and becomes scratched or clouded.
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Cool, that was the intention. inspired by the scratchy old vinyl they play on the pier and all the pensioners wandering up and down.
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Just for you lads then
Watch this video on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/225327859. Don’t have the Vimeo app? Get it from the App Store: http://bit.ly/vimeo_ios
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Thanks, Dan. That's a lovely video, gives me a warm fuzzy feeling.
Oh, if you're doing requests can you do a render with The Connells - '74 '75 as the soundtrack? :'( Gets me every time.
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I think its great.
I'm jealous too: I tried to do it at Cresciano ten years ago with a borrowed Super 8. A couple of days into the trip the camera jammed. As it wasn't mine I didn't really feel like taking it apart so most of the film was shot on DV and it ended up being just another bouldering film.
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Haha I'll see what I can do Guy, maybe one to 'in the air tonight' by Phil Collins to follow it up? It's great you lads liked the video, it gave me something to think about between redpoint fails and watching Ian beta flashing everything..... cowboy hat I hear vhs and dv are making a resurgence, the cameras are a bit of a lottery I'm getting quite a pile in the cupboard, each one has a different feel to it.
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Everyone's favorite P. Beetle strikes again:
https://vimeo.com/233617561
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Prepping your kids before climbing is the new driving to the Crag shot...
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Prepping your kids before climbing is the new driving to the Crag shot...
Seeing every Beetle move four times in a row is my new driving to the crag shot.
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9a? 7C+ into F8a+ into jug then 7B+. :-\
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9a? 7C+ into F8a+ into jug then 7B+. :-\
I guess nobody will be going there anytime soon to roadtest the grade. :shrug: I for one wont be booking a flight to Bolivia in the foreseeable :boohoo:
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Crucial heel hook on non exsisting structure :wank:
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9a? 7C+ into F8a+ into jug then 7B+. :-\
I guess nobody will be going there anytime soon to roadtest the grade. :shrug: I for one wont be booking a flight to Bolivia in the foreseeable :boohoo:
From the vimeo comment it looks like it's 8A+ rather than sport 8a+
"Up to there you have linked 7C+ to 8A+ without a rest, thus something like 8c+, but the last 7B+ boulder still will throw you off, if you are not in a good route climbing shape"
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Just a little Bell ringing action.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170919/274792db8d9019958309cb728add7689.gif)
I find it strangely satisfying. Dunno why.
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Everyone's favourite P. Beetle strikes again:
https://vimeo.com/236289545
9a+? 8b+ into shake out into 2 move 8B. :-\
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Yeah whatever Pirmy ::)
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Hardest this, hardest that from at least 4 different angles. :yawn:
Nevertheless, Ondra repeated one of his 9a routes at Charmey and confirmed the grade.
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He really needs to let someone else edit his videos.
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Why does everyone hate the Beetle? Seems genuinely psyched and has a decent life traveling about with his family and climbing a lot.
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I have no idea, I'm just jumping on the bandwagon cos it's cool.
Seriously though. There were reasons, before. I can't remember them but there were reasons. Also his video edits suck dick, then again I said that about Lawson Brothers Beta Strobe Cut videos and got shouted down, so who knows.
The crag and rock look beautiful tho. I'd sure as hell go there.
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Why does everyone hate the Beetle?
Probably the intolerable levels of vanity and bullshit borne out in his videos.
Hopefully he's just a bit of a chancer or simply taking the piss but more likely, I suspect sadly, is that he's a liar and a fantasist.
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He really needs to let someone else edit his videos.
There are some lovely shots in there but the overall effect made me seasick.
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I like the song.
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Everyone's favourite P. Beetle strikes again:
https://vimeo.com/236289545
9a+? 8b+ into shake out into 2 move 8B. :-\
I don't know this guy or any of what you're talking about but the climb looks fantastic.
Its doesn't look 9a+ to my eyes though, for what little that statement is worth
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Much like Rouhling's and the Schwaiger brother's films, Bertle's films seem designed to give the impression that he is unable to link more than one or possibly two moves on the routes they show.
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The payoff is something beyond what you've ever dreamed of
I bet it was! Sharma the Drama. FML.
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https://vimeo.com/235658496
This looks so shit it's brilliant.
Apologies if posted before.
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Haha I enjoyed that, have a wad.
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That looks ace. "Fuck, I've torn a flapper, we've only got a few minutes to post it on social media before it stops bleeding of it's own accord" :lol:
I keep thinking "How could you make a decent fictional rock climbing film?" Not like this evidently.
It is a horrible feeling when you're on a multipitch and the stronger partner you'd relied on to lead the crux pitch falls off it and tells you it's your turn though. We've all been there at 1:06. :'(
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So quotable.
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Please tell me it’s a parody??
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That was pretty funny, made me cringe when they kept whacking their heads. Hey Mike, you could always make a screenplay of 'Climbers' can't think of a better basis for a typically Brit trad climbing film?
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Please tell me it’s a parody??
Not sure, I don’t think it’s intentional.
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Just wasted 5 mins of my life looking at a thing called Slaydies. Surely climbing films can’t get any worse than this. I thought the last Megos thing had reached the bottom but it appears not.
I am old now but please tell me this shit isn’t just as irritable to kids.
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Is this the one that has a section where they start deciding what instagram hashtags they want to use for the trip?? A young lady I was with got to this bit and turned it off in utter disgust.
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I wasn’t concentrating enough to remember that bit but guess it’s the same one.
Utter vomit enducing American cheese. It is awful.
It’s a shame a lot of stuff is more and more like this. Ken and Barbie levels of sweetness.
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Just watched it. Not sure I disliked it as much as gme but it is fucking cringey. I think they might have rerecorded the interview audio later as it seems to not quite sync, which doesn't help an already false-seeming vibe.
I hate these films that are promoted beforehand then when they arrive they turn out to be less than ten minutes long and the rock climbing parts feel like an afterthought, like it's a very long trailer for a future film that they wanted to save the climbing footage for. It's eight minutes long and there's repeated footage in it for fucks sake- it's like they filmed each girl on one route then spent the rest of the trip shooting b-roll. It is primarily a Sportiva advert though so maybe that's what the company wanted.
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I didn’t enjoy Sladies very much either I usually watch free content right to the end but turned it off about half way through. I showed it to my 12 year old daughter, who climbs a bit and she enjoyed it and thought it was far less boring than most of the climbing films she had has seen. (She saw silence and thought it was a bit rubbish.) At the end she was able to tell me about the the personalities of the women and oblivious of the “product placement” when I asked her. I along with most UKB users would have liked grades, ticklists, footage of the send etc. She on the other hand would have found that boring.
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It is not all about hashtags @La Sportiva:
https://youtu.be/FWNEB0kqsb0 (https://youtu.be/FWNEB0kqsb0)
15 minutes well spend.
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Disappointing, it doesn't appear to be about a dank and terrifying day out on Cloggy.
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It is not all about hashtags @La Sportiva:
https://youtu.be/FWNEB0kqsb0 (https://youtu.be/FWNEB0kqsb0)
15 minutes well spend.
Really enjoyed this.
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Definitely quality that video. Donald trump is such an inspiration. :D
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I thought the route looked amazing, and it was well shot. The rest was cringe.
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Awful. I’d much rather watch Slaydies!
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I really enjoyed the bit from 10:00 onwards. From flicking through the timeline bar, I'm very glad I skipped the first 9 minutes and have no idea what it's about.
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It's basically James Pearson taking the piss out of the Instagram generation of climbers. I think that deserves some credit.
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To be honest from what I've seen the #instagram generation take the piss out of themselves very well anyway??
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I wasnt going to watch Slaydies but the opinions on here piqued me.
The only thing i didn't like about it is that I wasn't the one being paid to make it. Its an advertorial film which is fine, girls got bills to pay etc.
But it reminds me that climbing for me and a lot of other people is about having fun with your mates. 90% of other climbing 'films', most of which are just skate/music videos that impart nothing but beta, are about grades, a struggle, personal significance etc.
I think, particularly female climbers I know, would find it enjoyable and inspiring, much like so and so's daughter above.
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The James Pearson one sailed very close to being awful but actually was very enjoyable. Good effort for trying something different.
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It's not the most cringeworthy thing James Pearson has done (https://tinyurl.com/y99c3awc)
unclesomebodylovesyou
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Heads up, that gets a little NSFW...
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The route Power Ranger looks ace! J.P.'s acting skillz - HVS? Good message though.
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Having just watched the end of the Pearson vid I'm left wondering, is there a counterpoint video with the actual story behind the route, or does he not actually have a story to tell about it, hence the large amount of time spent producing 10 minutes of filler and cod philosophising?
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One of my favourite quality JP vids is the 'young james' section of hard xs - with the equilibrium footage being essential viewing. A route that's stood the test of time that's for sure. The climbing in the mostest vid was great and compelling to watch and maybe a bit diluted by the start, but it seems a shame to complain about the film for trying something different. Fiend's point about social media already doing a good job of parodying itself had me thinking. I watched the Slaydies vid with the volume off so don't know what was said, but apparently it's a sort of test of 'quality' or watchability doing that. Seemed ok apart from the split screen wipe transitions. Repetition can be good though and seemed to work well. Reading through some of the critical appraisal it makes me wonder what people actually want from a climbing video? More send footage, less send footage, more articulate, less talking, more talking, less philosophising, more stunning imagery, less drone footage? A good story honestly told?
Jonny makes a good point when talking about trying to balance the commercial aspects of 'best forgotten art' with his vision for the film. Maybe some of that is what's missing in the Sportiva vids.
https://m.epictv.com/media/podcast/james-pearson-on-sending-sketchy-climbs-in-his-youth-%7C-hardxs-from-slackjaw-film-ep-1/258877
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As Cowboyhat notes Slaydies falls very much into the advertorial section, which accounts for a lot of films being produced these days (as the man says people gots to get paid). Hopefully the some of the better climbing footage from that trip will make its way onto Pretty Strong ( https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/nevernotcollective/pretty-strong-all-your-favorite-climbing-chicks-in ) in an entirely different edit, as I think it's the same filmers and producers.
I'm all for people trying something different, but 10 mins of 'acting' to make a point about social media, followed by 5 mins of footage of a good looking climb without any context (unless I missed this in the bits I skipped through) seems a bit much.
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Crikey $79,000
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I just watched Sladies and I thought that, despite the fact that quite a lot of effort probably went into it, it was just totally vapid piffle. Most climbers are shit at acting, and there are so many (shit) climbing films which try to inveigle the viewer with fake camaraderie, cringeworthy voiceovers, etc.
FWIW, I’m far more interested in the sort of stuff where watching feels like being given a privileged insight into a scene. Obviously it helps if the people involved are charismatic and / or things unexpected happen, or go wrong. As soon as someone tries to make it more interesting by adding some sort of story on top, my enthusiasm tends to wane...
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I'm all for people trying something different, but 10 mins of 'acting' to make a point about social media, followed by 5 mins of footage of a good looking climb without any context (unless I missed this in the bits I skipped through) seems a bit much.
So you criticising something you didn't fully watch (just teasing you are fully entitled to do this)? There is a back story that plays out through the first 10 minutes. It's something along the lines of "have I climbed a climb if I haven't sprayed about it on social media" coming to the conclusion that you should just "let the climb speak up itself".
I personally thought it was a bit bizarre but delivered something quite watchable. And bizarre has a strong history in climbing films - Stone Monkey, "E9 is out there on the streets" - although I wouldn't say this is on a par with some of the better bizarre offerings.
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FWIW, I’m far more interested in the sort of stuff where watching feels like being given a privileged insight into a scene. Obviously it helps if the people involved are charismatic and / or things unexpected happen, or go wrong. As soon as someone tries to make it more interesting by adding some sort of story on top, my enthusiasm tends to wane...
I rewatched Consumed last night. It couldn’t be a more perfect illustration of your point Yossarian. (Although it definitely belongs in the quality thread)
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IYIvX5vNA6s (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IYIvX5vNA6s)
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something for the tor aficionados
https://youtu.be/_RqcChYRSUA
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I though the first 2-3 min of the Pearson vid was decent, and made the point, then there was about 7 minutes of totally pointless junk, then about 4 minutes of shit footage, 1 minute of good footage, and a final scene which would be far more impactful if it weren't a full time climber telling us that we moan too much about not having enough time without any hint of appreciation about how that makes him sound like a self-rightous knob. But hey ho.
I couldn't watch Slaydies without skipping relentlessly because there was basically no climbing footage in the whole thing.
But I liked the Polish Dave one :)
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Consumed is awesome.
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I agree with all that, Alex, apart from the shit footage bit. As long as it's not shaky, and conveys the nature of the moves and position, I'm happy. Everything else is superfluous.
Consumed has always been top draw in my book.
This is a good bit of slaydy-ing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqyXtf4azgQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqyXtf4azgQ)
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Yes thanks for that - excellent.
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Classic Bernd Arnold frightener from the 70s
http://www.emontana.cz/climbing-elbsandstein-falkenstein/
Click on cc for subs.
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I know it's been over a week now, but Polish Dave at full span is a thing to behold.
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This is probably the worst climbing video I ever saw (well the first half, anyway, I didn't finish), but it is interesting at is giving further proof that Beetle has never linked two hard moves in his life
https://vimeo.com/266451601
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LOL, well described.
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Alex Honnold has soloed Les Rivičres pourpres apparently
https://youtu.be/JL0nM_ovcHc
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Here is Just Do It at Smith Rock
www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK9G8GF1zRM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK9G8GF1zRM)
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That video Ted, is in the wrong thread 💪💪💪
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I bet that last bolts worth of climbing was pretty nervy.
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Cheers guys. Yes, the last couple of moves are only 5.12 or so but you would be crying a river if you dropped it up there!
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Kristian has rebolted these two power test pieces down the cornice :punk: nice one!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TiocBXqsYc
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfWxATWqFVU
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J4ree recent ascent of an awesome
But maybe forgot 8b+ (Accelerator) at Hollywood Bowl.
https://youtu.be/F4wtzmaFyE8
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https://vimeo.com/285987101
FA of SOS Selskapsresan, french 7c, R/X at Häller in Bohuslän. Not sure how that would translate into UK grades, but something like E8/9 6c perhaps?
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Nice, looks like a mega line after you pull right onto the wall / prow. English grading is always a bit tricky, French 7c which is falloffable would be around e6/7. E9 would be more like harder faster at black rocks, seriously scary stuff.
https://youtu.be/NhxEMh6upSo
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https://vimeo.com/288491934
One from South West Aus. This thing climbs out of some chossy cave and there's a lot of dubious looking and sounding rock.
Just like being back in the Peak ;)
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Nice selection of lesser climbed Staffs stuff here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vxc7s1kMvVw
Boring single angle punting of a couple of new routes here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDUOkgEC5WA
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Looks a great route, amazing rock quality. Though the top bit does look very very awkward :o
Here is another one from Bohuslän on the Swedish west coast. A great line I found in the spring. So far it has resisted all my efforts, and will probably have to wait until spring due to the shitty Scandinavian weather that has inevitably turned sour. Definitely solid 8a, the moves, the line and the rock quality is as good as it gets.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vbs9KCSF26c
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A bit of phone footage of a nice route on nth cloud. Safe and steady for the grade, protected by an rp1 and offset 0 not bad to place on lead. An amazing spot away from it all and Dan Varians Nth power looks amazing
Watch Judge Dread on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/299980340
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A bit of phone footage of a nice route on nth cloud. Safe and steady for the grade, protected by an rp1 and offset 0 not bad to place on lead. An amazing spot away from it all and Dan Varians Nth power looks amazing
Watch Judge Dread on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/299980340
It's such a great view up there isn't it? The light and shower across the snooker table into Leek is wonderful.
I climbed on the wave with your mate in the video recently, nice chap.
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Think I met this chap at Almscliffe in the summer, when he was in Yorkshire visiting family. Would that be right?
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A bit of phone footage of a nice route on nth cloud. Safe and steady for the grade, protected by an rp1 and offset 0 not bad to place on lead. An amazing spot away from it all and Dan Varians Nth power looks amazing
Watch Judge Dread on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/299980340
It's such a great view up there isn't it? The light and shower across the snooker table into Leek is wonderful.
I climbed on the wave with your mate in the video recently, nice chap.
Hi Guy, yeah it’s a mega spot up there. The weather blowing in made for an interesting day. Ben is a top bloke and a great cabinet maker if you ever need anything making!
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A bit of phone footage of a nice route on nth cloud. Safe and steady for the grade, protected by an rp1 and offset 0 not bad to place on lead. An amazing spot away from it all and Dan Varians Nth power looks amazing
Watch Judge Dread on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/299980340
Hey Dan - nice video! The route looks great, I hadn't ever really thought about it before but this has piqued my interest. What's the music / spoken word / poem you used?
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Thanks Reeve, hope you’re well dude. A good one to try and onsight or flash for you, the only dangerous move being the 6a rock up to the gear which you wouldn’t want to fire off. The music is ‘Woozy with Cider’ by James Yorkston, there’s an ep with some remixes of it, this was the original but I like the Jon Hopkins one too.
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The birds at the end are great.
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The birds at the end are great.
https://youtu.be/bOBQ7SDHueo
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Thanks Reeve, hope you’re well dude. A good one to try and onsight or flash for you, the only dangerous move being the 6a rock up to the gear which you wouldn’t want to fire off. The music is ‘Woozy with Cider’ by James Yorkston, there’s an ep with some remixes of it, this was the original but I like the Jon Hopkins one too.
Yes I'm well thanks Dan, and yourself? Ah nice found it on Spotify (not cool enough for EPs here obvs). Let me know if you're stuck for a partner for any similar obscure grit over winter
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I’m not to bad thanks Reeve, currently managing / trying to avoid the circus that is climbing today 😬 should be able to get out Saturdays over winter. I’m on messenger so will ping you a message. Re the EP thing, it’s the wrong way round, you’re obvs to cool for such things over there.
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24th ascent, or so, of Action Directe (http://escalade9.wifeo.com/action-direct.php).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1LnTLvFo40
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Really 24th? Becoming a trade route.
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Really 24th? Becoming a trade route.
it's had at least one ascent every other year since 2000, must be soft.
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Downgrade time!
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8c+/9a like hubble. Always was and always should be. I believe there are easier sequences as well now.
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And Hubble should be 8c+
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Wonder if it would still have had 24 ascents if it was graded 8c+/9a :-\
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Still no Brits have climbed Action Directe though! ;)
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Can we reinstate our old grading scale after the 29th of march. And ban knee bars and pastel coloured clothes.
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Still no Brits have climbed Action Directe though! ;)
I thought there was a film about one doing it?
Can we reinstate our old grading scale after the 29th of march. And ban knee bars and pastel coloured clothes.
You mean kick out Barrows and Adam lincoln?
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You mean the Pantomime Dame doing it?
Oh no he didn't! Oh yes he did!
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Thing is when Rich Simpson did / didn’t do Hubble and Action Direct it was pretty ‘newsworthy’ but now Hubble and to some extent Action Direct and the first 9a debate? have been banged on about seemingly incessantly for the last 18 years both the routes, the grade debate and subsequent ascents have achieved a status of eye rolling tedium.
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Better than debating Brexit ;)
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Pretty much anything beats talking about that. I reckon Rich did it cos he was a beast etc etc and Hubble is at least 9a must be cos Sean Mcoll couldn’t do it even with a knee scum and he’s not shit or is he?
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He’s a bit of a gimp though.
You seem a bit disillusioned old boy :lol:
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Haha possibly, even Shark’s eternal battle with The Oak which was previously inspiring seems to be going on a bit these days (cmon Simon for gods sake 😉)
Seriously tho, there’s got to be a point where we all acknowledge while Hubble was and is a great achievement for it’s time (now I’m joining in ugh) a summer ascent of Mam Tor’s south west face is more interesting
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A quiet day on Hen Cloud yesterday, not a bod in sight. The North Easterly seemed to be blowing the clag over to the roaches in the morning. This was a bit of a shameless redpoint of master of reality. I’m no way good enough to do this placing the gear on lead. Felt top end e6 even like this, but maybe that’s the bitter wind and man flu 🙄. I used to have a purely ground up ethic but I’ve given that up in exchange for climbing routes that I’ve always wanted to in the day or two a month I get out. Still ground up or onsight where possible I reckon.
Watch Master of Reality on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/302626467
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Great effort Dan! I remember trying that one on toprope in 2000. Its certainly on the upper end of E6, or whatever that means. Solid 7b+ at least. :icon_beerchug: Interesting fact about Leonardo's painting skills :smart:
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Cheers Ted, long time no see buddy! yeah I thought quite tough for 7b+ but then it’s always hard to translate sport grades to natural gritstone. Taul Paul was out with us yesterday which was cool. Him and Jonny spent the afternoon psyching each other out of doing it 😂. I’m off to state at ink blots....
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Love the cameo at 3:10
Inspiring stuff. Can I ask if you got gear after the top break, where you are partly out of shot?
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Cheers, pippin the whippet always has to get in on the action whether intended or not. You can put a range of gear up there around friend 1/2 or rock 4-5. It’s sort of over there (about balancy 5a) but I was cold and tired and the rock was filthy lichenous scrittle as I hadn’t been up before. The part you wouldn’t want to fall off is the rock up where I swapped a heel to a toe. Hadn’t done it that way before- dubious beta from my mate. So felt pretty sketch. Some great climbing!
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https://youtu.be/9Hk7Nym77W4
Someone had to post this.... genius Doylo :)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KOp8HzAnpk
This is from a trip to the peak about a year ago. Being from Norway I must say that I am mighty impressed that this one and harder routes are done ground-up, flashed and onsighted on a regular basis. From what I´ve read that seems to be my impression at least... We had to throw a rope down for a couple of practice-runs before committing.
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Good effort for coming over and getting it done.
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Thanks. The rock is the best I have ever touched. Planning on a return trip in the spring. Going for a 10-day trip, which time of year would be the most sensible in terms of stable weather? Last year (late October) we were very lucky. Some light showers, but otherwise blue sky and great sticky conditions. Otherwise, the atmosphere and scenery is amazing. Somewhat Postman Pat-like...
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The rock is the best I have ever touched. Planning on a return trip in the spring. Going for a 10-day trip, which time of year would be the most sensible in terms of stable weather?
Try Torridon Sandstone! It's a bit of a lottery, but you could try for May time ish. A bit more light gives you better windows for climbing, but it's still not getting too warm.
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As SAChris says, British weather is a
bit of a massive lottery.
After Easter there is more light and the weather is typically more stable than April. September would be the equivalent autumn period.
June can be a bit warm for grit. October and March are great months, just you’re taking a bit more of a chance with the weather. The advantage of October would be the likelihood of dry limestone bouldering if you got rained off the grit.
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Wobbly iPhone footage of a lovely Nadin route on the 5 clouds, Laguna Sunrise. We waited around all day in the rain, sat for a good while under Wings buttress. I’m glad to have stuck this one out until near dark.
Watch Laguna Sunrise on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/307893294
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Nice one Dan. Looks a great route. Sorry for :offtopic: but I'm down from the Highlands with the inlaws in Stafford so hoping to get my annual day at the Roaches tomorrow. Was thinking of bouldering at the Clouds. It's grim and wet here today but forecast good tomorrow, any idea of things will dry quick enough?
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Hi Gaz, Tetris block will be dry as will milky buttons. Crystal grazer takes a bit longer but should be alright by pm. It’s a north easterly/ easterly tomorrow so stuff out of the wind and sun e.g imperfect catch etc might not dry off. The cube, ramshaw, baldstones might be good but chilly options.
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Awesome, thanks Dan. Trust on Tetris block and Finger of Faith are high on the list so I'll head that way. Cube is a good shout too.
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I was at 4th cloud yesterday - rain in morning then dry and windy. It dried up pretty quick.
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Awesome, thanks Dan. Trust on Tetris block and Finger of Faith are high on the list so I'll head that way. Cube is a good shout too.
No worries Gaz, may pop there myself for a Boulder ✌️
Hi Tom, that was you !
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Great! I'll be the one with the tennis ball obsessed collie.
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Thanks again for the knowledge Dan. Christmas eve at the Clouds turned into one of my best days out of 2018. Happy days.
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That’s great to hear Gaz. What a lovely day huh! I ended up belaying a friend on eastern grit. How were the problems?
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Yeah, it was lovely. Maybe a bit warm in the sun to be mint but good enough. Finger of Fate, Trust, Thrust and Hard Arete had been on my list for a while but I didn't expect to do them all on the same day.
Success like that generally means my next few days out will be thorough spankings.
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Hard aręte is great, did you look at the Nadin problem to the left of finger of fate? Looks good
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Awesome, thanks Dan. Trust on Tetris block and Finger of Faith are high on the list so I'll head that way. Cube is a good shout too.
No worries Gaz, may pop there myself for a Boulder ✌️
Hi Tom, that was you !
Yes! Hello (again :) )
(Soz don’t check this thread that often)
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a mate trying hard above the sea
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KG5HgL5M8BQ&feature=youtu.be
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Great video that Guy.
The main event was wet today so went on this instead. First did it about 15yrs ago. I fell off the top today feeling pukey (honest 😂) Tom crimped and slapped!
https://youtu.be/srtgdAZCFhk
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My memory of doing that is karate chopping my way up,the crack. I don’t think I touched the break he reaches from the heel hook. I remember grabbing the jug on the right then panicking as I thought I couldn’t get back in to the crack.
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Aye karate chopping is definitely the way for the thin handed connoisseur.
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Something from the dark side of Lancashire. Something I bodged together for the Darwen Mountain Film Fest, using some ropey footage from a variety of cameras that weren't working properly. But it seemed to go down well last night, so here you go...
NSFW Warning - some loud swearing to start.
https://youtu.be/4k-AHDDRtcU
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Posted this on the esoteric thread but had to re-upload. Having to swallow my pride and use Vimeo aaaarrergggggghhhhh cnuts!
Anyway Dougie Hall action from Running Hill Pits. Mega stuff. I make it look harder than it is but prob still more e6 than e5
https://vimeo.com/319562006?utm_source=email&utm_medium=vimeo-cliptranscode-201504&utm_campaign=29220&utm_term=1199458
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Dan, that's great :clap2:
For a while I thought you were the black spot on the other side of the quarry - giving it a particularly wide/eerie feel.
Nice lob. I can imagine you're quite fit atm.
I've always found the notion of pulling ropes on trad routes really contrived/unnecessary, with the more significant difficulty being heading for the next gear not knowing what's coming. Depends on the route though.
Also great not to have music - I'm not saying there should be none whatsoever, but appreciating the general quietness of the setting makes it all the more inspiring.
Thanks.
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Quality video. Cool dog too.
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Cheers Dave / Dunny G, yeah i did consider pulling the ropes but it seemed a bit artificial as you just clamber onto a block about 4a stand on tiptoes then clamber back down again. What I will say is I did back up the wire on the crux while sitting on a wire. Glad I did otherwise it was impossible for me to place. So a bit cheeky really. I was disappointed not to get up there putting the gear in but didn’t mind so much as I gave it full effort.
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Dog looked a bit emaciated when you lifted it's head up.
Good faff and good sketching / fighting on the first go :)
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Sheepspeare :clap2:
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The worst bit is I couldn’t even get the lines right. My brain was addled by the unbearable stench and general weirdness of the situation.
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Theo on Call of Nature, good for the tall-person beta.
http://youtu.be/X5MALcDVVbc
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https://youtu.be/wv992MmQDGI
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Where is the 6b bit on that? Start, end or both?
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The slab. The crux is standing up into the little overlap. Makes a good Font 6C highball if you have a few pads. The roof section is 5c ish, just a bit of a lurch/stretch to an edge.
The line in the guide actually goes over the roof a bit further left, but I'm told by someone else who has done it that it doesn't make any difference. The holds there are currently filled with heather.
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Make it funky
https://youtube.com/watch?v=BSSBRbUsBNo&feature=youtu.be
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Let's keep this thread on track with 10mins of run out sand scrittling and grit wankering as a friend affectionately termed it. All headpoints, a few of them new routes. Enjoy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TMthdmRUvo
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The White Scoop looks great.
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I love the way Dave never fails to seduce the footholds as he goes.
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Huh, I think you did Mr. DT’s proj. Love the seaside vibe, and not an ambassador in sight. Excellent stuff
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Huh, I think you did Mr. DT’s proj. Love the seaside vibe, and not an ambassador in sight. Excellent stuff
Re Pinch Soma.
Yes, just heard about that from dAn ;D tonight.
You make it look even better than I thought it did already. Had my eye on that one for years! Long enough to, very sadly, have no complaints about someone getting off their ass and getting it done.
Well done. Looks class +1 :clap2:
As I said recently, the Plantation is an outdated and worked out crag.. where I do have some active projects too ;)
Hey, and cracking effort Matt on Make it Funky!
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Apologies if this has been posted before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6E6tFTGcQlI
Reminds me of the intro-scene in Hard Grit :ohmy: :ohmy:
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Fuckinell. Luckily he lobbed there and not a move later.
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Oooooft!
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Ultralight 8a+ on 2 Tier Buttress in Cheedale
https://youtu.be/SPY55Wt9bhc (https://youtu.be/SPY55Wt9bhc)
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Flow 8a+ and Stogumber Club 7c from 2 Tier Buttress, Cheedale
www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB-wh36fqF0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB-wh36fqF0)
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Melancholie 8b at Lower Pen Trwyn, Llandudno
www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8x0o2qC-0U&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8x0o2qC-0U&feature=youtu.be)
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Canyonlands 8a at Devil's Gorge, Pantymywn, Ally Smith's superb extension to the classic Grand Canyon 7b+!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLsq6a0zVSY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLsq6a0zVSY)
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Great looking route, Ted.
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Ally Smith's superb extension to the classic Grand Canyon 7b+!
Is this the infamous "Procter Project" of yore?
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Ally Smith's superb extension to the classic Grand Canyon 7b+!
Is this the infamous "Procter Project" of yore?
It is indeed. Proctor spent years trying to climb it via an eliminate sequence 1m left of the line of least resistance. Lee stopped climbing and started cycling again competitively; at this point I got a tip off Pete Robbins was organising a visit, so snuck in before he could do the deed.
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Proctor spent years trying to climb it via an eliminate sequence 1m left of the line of least resistance. Lee stopped climbing and started cycling again competitively
Last seen cycling along the verge.
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10 years trying an eliminate sequence which ultimately resulted in the end of his climbing when he could have done it in a year or two and sailed off into the sunset on the HMS Glory. absolutely bonkers
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Lee ensured his glory, by still claiming the first ascent of Canyonlands and having it recorded as such in the Clwyd Limestone guide 'Lee Proctor with one rest point'.
I hereby claim the first ascents of every route 8b - 8c+ I bolted and that Robins ultimately sent. He may have been the first to do them clean, but obvs I was the first ascensionist 'with rest points' ::)
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Excellent idea. IF we can accept this protocol then at last Shark can put the Oak to rest.
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Lee ensured his glory, by still claiming the first ascent of Canyonlands and having it recorded as such in the Clwyd Limestone guide 'Lee Proctor with one rest point'.
I hereby claim the first ascents of every route 8b - 8c+ I bolted and that Robins ultimately sent. He may have been the first to do them clean, but obvs I was the first ascensionist 'with rest points' ::)
he should have just said it was a two pitch route.
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This :lol:
Wasn't Jumbo Love originally a two-pitch route done by Randy Leavitt or did I just make that up..?
And it's what we do with trad.
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This :lol:
Wasn't Jumbo Love originally a two-pitch route done by Randy Leavitt or did I just make that up..?
And it's what we do with trad.
He did the first 7c section before it gets hard.
Be a strange two pitcher stopping 2 metres below the top of devils gorge, then bringing up your second. Then doing 4 moves to the top. :lol:
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Will, you're the guidebook writer.
The Oak
2 pitch route- yeh or neh???
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Will, you're the guidebook writer.
The Oak
2 pitch route- yeh or neh???
7c+ that way :)
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Joking aside, I have seen this on Yorkshire Limestone. Can't remember the route off the top of my head.
For a price I can put the Oak in as "8b with rests. An unpopular variation avoiding the rests is also possible at the same grade".
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2 for the price of one - Smarter Martyr 8b plus some footage of Joint Enterprise 7C+, the powerful start. A nice addition from Andy Chrome
www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvKc5eMIm0c&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvKc5eMIm0c&feature=youtu.be)
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Does it really go that far left on the bit between the breaks? I only had one session on it, about 5 years ago, but I remember trying to go direct at that point - rh to crimpy thing, lh to bad sidepull/undercut, stab up right (i.e. avoiding the big loop left) and thinking this was the crux...
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I think a hold broke on that bit, ie the hard section of Massala Martyr, thats what I got told anyway. It may no longer be possible. That's the reason for the loop out left, think this is also the way Dan did it recently. I intend to have a proper look at that section to see if it's still possible but it looked pretty blank. It used to be the crux on an 8a+ route so it's safe to say if it is possible but harder, the grade may be substantially bumped up!
Also, the moves past the last bolt broke over 18 years ago I understand so there is another loop out right on that section too (not shown in vid). Not sure this bit will be reclimbable as it looks v smooth (and filthy!) Shame Massala Martyr is so broken, I guess that's the nature of the rock...
Anyone have any info on this?
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Here is the UKC description for Smarter Martyr, referring to the broken hold and climbing now to the left of the bolts. Hopefully a direct will be doable!
Rockfax Description
A direct on Massala Martyr. A boulder problem start goes direct, to the right of the first two bolts. The upper section uses the same bolts as Massala Martyr but takes a line to the left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The direct solution to Massala Martyr. A neat font 7c problem start climbs directly to the right of the first two bolts, the crux above is now harder since a hold came off.
Andy Crome 04/May/2010
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABpwm7rbHVU
dMac on a 3 pitch stamina plod "boulder problem".
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Hot Flushes, 8a
Raven Tor
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmvByGdA5dk&feature=youtu.be
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Thought this was pretty good. Nice to see non-steep hard routes occasionally - ratty deadpointing and one-inch punching ahoy. Bit shouty at the end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5dEr2ZVfpI
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Sounds good to me, will watch :)
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Pembroke DWS, feels like a million years ago. features 8c+ climber relatively gibbering on perfect pitch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wij3Rjc63Fc
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I don't know if this is the right place for this, but behold an almost very dangerous fall
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJAFSLefjVA
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I filmed this years ago for Tom’s series on EpicTV and thought the footage was unfairly lost in their ceaseless tide of content. So I’ve uploaded it here.
http://youtu.be/sjI3bFNJKaA
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Cheers Guy, that was very nice.
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Really enjoyed that Guy...should never have been relegated, I've watched far worse on EpicTV!
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Thanks both
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It's surely never 12b though? Ray Jardine gave it 5.11 something, I just can't remember which letter. Mind you, I think he also gave Ray's Roof 5.11 something.
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It's surely never 12b though? Ray Jardine gave it 5.11 something, I just can't remember which letter. Mind you, I think he also gave Ray's Roof 5.11 something.
yeah, I don't know if that was my mistake or what I'd been told. I'm not qualified to have an opinion, what did you think to it?
I remember a story about Honnold onsight soloing it and Dave Simmonite saying it was the sketchiest thing he'd seen. Probably full of half-truths but it's a dramatic picture.
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I was expecting a real fight but it went ok. I didn't really use French grades at the time but maybe 6c+/7a?
Soloing it, in whatever style, is a great effort though. Tom made it look incredibly easy.
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I remember a story about Honnold onsight soloing it and Dave Simmonite saying it was the sketchiest thing he'd seen. Probably full of half-truths but it's a dramatic picture.
Wasn’t the story something about Honnold’s sausage fingers not fitting some of the jams so he had to use his little fingers?
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Cheers for that Guy. I haven’t watched it since it was first up. How many times did he climb it?
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I remember a story about Honnold onsight soloing it and Dave Simmonite saying it was the sketchiest thing he'd seen. Probably full of half-truths but it's a dramatic picture.
Wasn’t the story something about Honnold’s sausage fingers not fitting some of the jams so he had to use his little fingers?
Panic!
Cheers for that Guy. I haven’t watched it since it was first up. How many times did he climb it?
Once in full, then bottom half again to the rest and slid down an ab rope.
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Lovely stuff GvG. I really should go and try London Wall again!
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Great little film.
I fell off the top crack when I first tried it at a time when I’d climbed in the States and was on-sighting E5 regularly. I remember being gutted. It was many years before I went back and did it one evening with no dramas. The lack of decent feet on that crux means you’re fully committed to the jams. Soloing London Wall is very, very impressive in my opinion, much more so than it looks on paper and I consider myself reasonable on finger jams (I’ve onsighted 12c in that style). I’d go as far as to say I would prefer to solo End of the Affair over London Wall. Perhaps it’s partly the height, where the crux is and the ground - a big unforgiving rock ledge. And because I’ve never been much of a soloist!
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Enjoyed that, cheers Guy.
I've not done much proper US 5.12 but a fair bit of 5.11 including a few of those mountain 5.11+ crack pitches that are always harder than the 5.12 face sections. The start on LW is really bouldery and not in a US style, and as T_B says the top is very droppable (and usually dirty onsight). So I'd say London Wall is definitely in the 5.12 bracket. But also I'd value Randall's grade opinion over anyone's above, if he says 12b that's a significant data point.
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I'd definitely seen that before but forgotten how good it is - thanks Guy.
Grade-wise, 11d for me. But as Tom and Adam has said, there are various factors about it which don't make it a 'good' solo in that if you had to solo a route of that grade, there would be easier ones to choose. I thought the ending was great, very insightful.
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I don't know if this is the right place for this, but behold an almost very dangerous fall
Very lucky that didn't go while he was trying to clip, or he would have decked head first for sure.
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I’m late - but I really liked Jim Popes video. Daft name - great film.
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3 alright routes at some crags you may have heard of...
https://youtu.be/u2aD1g2o3I0
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Always good watching the White Wizard in action!
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Just watched the last 2 videos, for some reason I never read this thread before. Looks like some more lockdown boredom entertainment sorted. Thanks :clap2:
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Pat Hill on Ninth Life, E7 6c
http://youtu.be/yPWgH-HHcQE
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Should be an extra e point for wearing trousers so baggy you can’t see your feet!
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Horrible attire. Worn for flexibility apparently - just wear pants.
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Horrible attire. Worn for flexibility apparently - just wear pants.
*worn because it's the only pair of trousers Pat owns... :lol:
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Should be an extra e point for wearing trousers so baggy you can’t see your feet!
And another for being belayed by VG
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Probably want a nice tight rope on E7 😂
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Good to see that this has remained a trad route.
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Should be an extra e point for wearing trousers so baggy you can’t see your feet!
And another for being belayed by VG
Probably want a nice tight rope on E7 😂
Set of bastards.
To be fair, I wasn’t his first choice, not even his second. Nic wondered off and didn’t come back and Rob refused, so he was stuck with me.
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https://youtu.be/xIPgy57dpNg
Tequila Mockingbird (most of)
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Nice to see that lovely wall again.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ubA6A8Y8yw
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cheque already decided it was quality, and stuck it there. Good effort.
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cheque already decided it was quality, and stuck it there. Good effort.
:slap:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6-aYduOACU
Why anyone would choose to climb in this cave when you have the rest of Rodellar to onsight in, god only knows, but there we are. Awful soundtrack but some reasonable footage. Turn subs on (italian)
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Yes, not exactly the most inspiring line.
It is interesting that both woman to have climbed 9b are 5 foot and have a pretty light frame.
When Ondra spoke at the Kendal mountain festival. Someone asked him about Angie Eiter's 9b and whether woman could match or exceed the grades of men - his response was along the lines of... it was a route that was perfectly suited to her. I presumed the implication being that whilst she had climbed a 9b, there would be a very limited number of routes at the grade that she could climb. Perhaps that is not surprising since all the 9b's and above have been put up by men.
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That might make more sense if Ali Hulk had been put up and repeated only by climbers similarly short and light. I think the future will hold plenty of routes 'perfectly suited' to the lighter climber, and therefore unclimbable by the heavier.
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I have yet to see a move on overhanging rock where being light is not an advantage. Pity it is not possible to be both light and tall, because weight ~ height ^ 2, while strength ~ height. (If your only criteria for performance is strength/weight ratio you need to be short, it is not physically possible to be tall and have a good strength/weight ratio.)
Good video from a deeply uninspiring piece of rock. Inspiring climbing though, and she certainly seems to get out a lot from the experience, so chapeau to all involved.
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[deleted]
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Good video from a deeply uninspiring piece of rock. Inspiring climbing though, and she certainly seems to get out a lot from the experience, so chapeau to all involved.
Agree with this, she seems psyched, the actual climbing looks good.
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I liked her tantrums, that made it worth watching. What a "toilet line" tho, even the rock itself looks dismal in a Peak Lime sort of way. Still when our first 9b+ ends up as Belly Of The Beast -into- Mutation we'll be laughing on the other side of our faces....
Pretty light frame is a very tactful way of putting things.
Incidentally watching Ondra's "ideal body shape for climbing", the tallest top comp climbers are, guess what, relatively light, and can use both their power to weight ratio and height effectively.
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Dab at 02:46.
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Pity it is not possible to be both light and tall, because weight ~ height ^ 2, while strength ~ height. (If your only criteria for performance is strength/weight ratio you need to be short, it is not physically possible to be tall and have a good strength/weight ratio.)
Being pedantic are your numbers from real data and studies?
Since if you assume isometric scaling then i'd expect weight ~ height ^ 3 and strength ~ height ^ 2. Although I'm sure humans don't scale isometrically, so I'd be interested to know the real scaling exponents across populations.
Still the same principle though, that weight goes up faster than strength as height increases.
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Pity it is not possible to be both light and tall, because weight ~ height ^ 2, while strength ~ height. (If your only criteria for performance is strength/weight ratio you need to be short, it is not physically possible to be tall and have a good strength/weight ratio.)
Being pedantic are your numbers from real data and studies?
[...]
To be honest, mostly from first principles. But I did check this at some point on a homogenous group where the height, actual measured weight and strength is known: olympic lifters. I'll see if I can dig out my plots.
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From the 2016 olympics
Height2 explains 79% of bodyweight in the world's best olympic lifters
(https://i.imgur.com/QRFJevB.png)
Height explains 78% of total weight lifted in the world's best olympic lifters
(https://i.imgur.com/fNRAOB4.png)
Height explains 72% of strength to weight ratio in the world's best olympic lifters
(https://i.imgur.com/RJXGGzp.png)
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Interesting. Does the R^2 increase if you plot weight ~ height^3 and strength ~ height^2?
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This paper:
Gender- and height-related limits of muscle strength in world weightlifting champions
https://journals.physiology.org/doi/pdf/10.1152/jappl.2000.89.3.1061 (https://journals.physiology.org/doi/pdf/10.1152/jappl.2000.89.3.1061)
suggests height ^ 2.16
'The separate ratios of weight lifted to Ht ^ 2.16 for men and women (Fig. 1E) were nearly constant over the entire range of body weights, including those of the unlimited-class champions'
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Cheers Ian. That's interesting regarding strength. It does seem to scale close to height^2. Interesting then that weight doesn't scale to height^3 (figure 1B), although they do discuss that weight/height^3 is almost constant in the lighter lifters, but increases in the heaviest lifters. Maybe related to changes in the body composition and the fraction of total mass made up by muscle mass. I.e. heavier lifters are proportionally much more stacked (and hence heavier) than your predict from height alone.
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Not sure whether this is quality - for historical value- or not. Ron pathing various Peak classics:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic
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Ace. Look how clean Great West Road is as Ron Saunters down it!
Always good to see the Gill Fawcett belaying style. In each of the four early 80s Ron films I’ve now seen she looks like it’s her first time doing it, fumbling to pay the slack out and pretty much letting go of the brake end in the process. Pretty stressful when he’s huffing and puffing on Body Machine and The Prow in huge clunky boots. :ohmy:
The only bit I’d seen of this before is the sequence of Geoff Birtles on the Right Unconquerable- it’s the contrast between the unrelatably dated (hexes on cord, body belay, handing a lit cig to your belayer immediately before starting, making a dodgy “ooh there’s nothing like a Brownie” joke) and the completely timeless (Stanage and the moves of the route itself, pre-climb jitters, placing more runners than you planned to, making a total meal of the top mantel) that I love about old climbing footage and photos. ;D .
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I thought the down climbing at millstone was glorious
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He makes the crux of Coventry Street look about V Diff. :'(
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and he makes Edge Lane look like he's climbing a ladder. Total confidence in his feet in those big clunky boots.
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Excellent! I think its been discussed before but why did the use of a single crab, rather than a quickdraw, on a wire and the linking two crabs to fixed gear (I was always told metal on metal was bad, but never fully understood why) fall out of vogue?
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All the weight of a quickdraw and you STILL get loads of drag? Metal on metal seems to work ok in my car engine so not sure that’s the reason.
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I think it fell out of vogue when decent sewn quickdraw tapes became available. In Fawcett on Rock (1987) he’s got QDs and recommends using two krabs joined together only in “low-drag situations“. David Jones’ Rock Climbing in Britain shows (from the same year as this film) calls quickdraws tie-offs and warns you that they’re weaker than the karabiners, showing strength test results where the tape has failed first.
My experience of doing it on low first runners suggests that they lift out very easily.
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I think it fell out of vogue when decent sewn quickdraw tapes became available. In Fawcett on Rock (1987) he’s got QDs and recommends using two krabs joined together only in “low-drag situations“. David Jones’ Rock Climbing in Britain shows (from the same year as this film) calls quickdraws tie-offs and warns you that they’re weaker than the karabiners, showing strength test results where the tape has failed first.
My experience of doing it on low first runners suggests that they lift out very easily.
I see. Thanks for the explanation.
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That's great, I don't think I'd seen it before, Body Machine on pegs, crappy aid bolts, and tatty threads!
Wired nuts were invented in the mid 60s but only came into widespread use in the mid 70s a decade or so before the film. It took a while to figure out the most effective way of using them and a single or doubled carabiner was the standard initially.
The Troll website claims they invented the quickdraw around 1977 but I never saw them used until 1983-4. A friend who went to Buoux in 1983 saw them in widespread use there and encouraged me to acquire some. Seems like Ron hadn't quiet got with programme in 1985 despite being sponsored by Troll.
Here is Ron using three carabiners (1982):
https://www.instagram.com/p/B1wm8J5Dd1y/
My friend Matt, single and double, the same year:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BYeXeI4lQpe/
Hazel's dad with carabiners pre-racked in pairs (1980):
https://www.instagram.com/p/BwPkHlcDxv0/
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I see. Thanks for the explanation.
Reading it back, the tone of my last post is ridiculously dry! :lol: I thought it was interesting too and was looking at those books late last night to try and understand it- saw your post soon after waking up and just regurgitated the information. :geek:
I think the breakthrough must have come when someone realised that if you stitched all the way down the middle of the tape, creating the stiff ‘draws we know today, the strength problem was solved.
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I've seen that Kammerlander uses crab-to-crab as extenders, but with lockers in lieu of non-locking carabiners. I assume to lower the risk of accidentally unclipping on big run-outs?
Example: https://youtu.be/DKjAbf3HQE4?t=142
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I was trying to remember when I first used something recognisably a quickdraw and I can't be sure. But of course it was already common to carry slings to extend runners and I'm sure my first quickdraws will have been longer slings (tied, not sewn) doubled over to QD length.
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I'd say post '83 draws became common. I remember pics of Ron using 2 krabs on those E5s at Pen Trwyn like Mr Olympia around that time but everyone I saw after that used draws. By the time I was going to Malham (84/5 onwards) everyone used draws (and would go to Buoux at Easter and see how the French redpointed stuff).
I've seen that Kammerlander uses crab-to-crab as extenders, but with lockers in lieu of non-locking carabiners. I assume to lower the risk of accidentally unclipping on big run-outs?
Hence the 'metal to metal' advice I expect.
As an aside, that footage really showcases what a master Ron was/is on grit.
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I always thought the metal to metal advice was to do with peaks loads.
The tape adds a tiny bit of give into system that will drastically reduce the peak force on the gear during a fall.
Hence, the trick when removing stuck nuts of clipping two krabs (metal on metal) to the nut and yanking on that. Bigger peak load than same with a quickdraw.
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I thought the main reason for metal to metal was bad was because it can produce sharp edges on biners, which in turn can do bad things to your rope if you later have the rope running over the sharp bits.
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I thought it was because the krabs twist and one krab twisting against another can easily push the gate open, resulting in the krab unclipping itself.
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I see. Thanks for the explanation.
Reading it back, the tone of my last post is ridiculously dry! :lol:
Not as dry as my response! I think I was still in work mode last night. Hence my brevity. I was genuinely interested by your explanation though :)
Twisting sounds like the most plausible reason for not linking krabs to me. Although presumably the chances of gate opening can be mitigated by the use of locking bikers. However, is a twisting force more likely to lead to krab failure? I would have thought this is something which could be easily tested.
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If you're carrying a rack of doubled up locking biners to clip into gear.....I'd be interested to see the full reasoning for that ;) :w00t:
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I seem to remember we were convinced by the argument two crabs could twist against each other and open. My first 'quick draws' would have been short slings doubled over - '2 foot' slings?
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Semi-quality featuring som classic Bohulän routes. Check out from 21.49, swedish lunatic Erik Grandelius doing the first ascent of an 8b, R/X
https://vimeo.com/465061212?fbclid=IwAR1bjesIK5HK1cSsWcQ5efKoI8xQ2NcOVTplITUylqPI4p5htGzM0S7_5i0
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Great little video
Here's the route Grandelius climbs: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28774.msg565187.html
Grandelius is not a lunatic, just very good at climbing and maybe a little bit less in touch with his feelings than most.
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Nice, deffo semi-quality overall, but pure quality for the actual climbs, they all look ace. And yes good highlighting that route, pretty cool, with it's pre-placed combined-tactics bouldering mats and all!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuDApo4u06g&feature=emb_logo
On the Q/NQ cusp, not cutting edge, but great to see an ace looking route get done, warts and all. Don't watch if you want to ruin the onsight.
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Just saw this funny vid on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pJVRqBQiCA
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Oh Shiiit moment
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Nick always had a theory that if a piece of gear needed to hold it, it would. That one obviously didn't need to.
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Good effort carrying on. I guess theres the 'what else could I do' point, but I''d have scuttled across to that big flake and cried mummy until someone sent me a rope down.
Which is why I don't do trad :D
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He looks totally unphased by it all!
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He looks totally unphased by it all!
I don't think I ever saw Nick get flustered.
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Didn't you point out he'd done an E9 a year for the last 30 years?? No wonder he's unflustered on an E7 6b headpoint, comedy gear or not!!
Would have been quite funny to have it hit the "spotter' tho.
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That's great. Does make it look a lot like a bad sequence on Hairless, though that first move looks hard!
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I didn’t recognise the climber initially so my first reaction was “oh shit...this could be messy”. Then I twigged who it was and relaxed.
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Would have been quite funny to have it hit the "spotter' tho.
Think I used to have a pic of Dawes on my wall at the top of the very big and the very small wearing that blazer
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Direct finish to Saucius Digitalis at Shining Clough a few weeks ago
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wqq5-3EIC8I
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Looks good. I wish I'd spotted this.
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Direct finish to Saucius Digitalis at Shining Clough a few weeks ago
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wqq5-3EIC8I
Dan looking well hench, I wonder what training program he has been on 🤔
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Direct finish to Saucius Digitalis at Shining Clough a few weeks ago
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wqq5-3EIC8I
That looks great. How good is the gear on the green rope? And where does Saucius move onto the arete? I presume Saucius finishes on the arete as Bloodrush does, rather than climbing it on the right?
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It moves left at the level of the gear - you can see a good hold on the aręte to aim for. I climbed the final bit on the front. Couldn't swear to it but I think the gear's good.
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I like the moment of "do I bother fiddling some gear in that crack, nah, sod it, press on". Looks great
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I like the moment of "do I bother fiddling some gear in that crack, nah, sod it, press on". Looks great
I assumed it was an onsight!
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New highball aręte for the Rivelin circuit from Steve R and Mark20. The left aręte of the Easy Pickings buttress.
7A+(!!) with lots of pads, or E7 6b without.
http://youtu.be/u1YWI2VTtrc
! - can fall off
!! - dodgy fall or landing
!!! - try not to fall off
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How did everyone miss that?
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Especially given the 2005 guidebook says “the aręte on its steep right hand side awaits a sufficiently brave and talented climber”!
Looks nice.
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New highball aręte for the Rivelin circuit from Steve R and Mark20. The left aręte of the Easy Pickings buttress.
7A+(!!) with lots of pads, or E7 6b without.
http://youtu.be/u1YWI2VTtrc
! - can fall off
!! - dodgy fall or landing
!!! - try not to fall off
Did you have a go?
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New highball aręte for the Rivelin circuit from Steve R and Mark20. The left aręte of the Easy Pickings buttress.
7A+(!!) with lots of pads, or E7 6b without.
http://youtu.be/u1YWI2VTtrc
! - can fall off
!! - dodgy fall or landing
!!! - try not to fall off
Did you have a go?
No, should’ve done in retrospect but I’d got cold. Young Tom Appleby gave it a decent ground up go, falling off going for the seam around the aręte. Straight forward fall with ~10 pads.
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Good moves on that. Top-out looks like the E7 bit!
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Good moves on that. Top-out looks like the E7 bit!
I'd be fuckityfucking at that point.
Joe Wilkinson looked solid on it though.
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Looks easier than easy pickings
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMkHpji9Y_8
Gripped, Climbing the Killer Pillar, is out now! This looks to be the blockbuster we've all been waiting for. I watched 10 mins with the kids yesterday and it didn't disappoint, a veritable cheeseboard.
Also on Prime.
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Only sticking this in here because of one very small snippet of naff advertising, and also it still being a project, but it looks like a great route with cool varied moves:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq5VFo9nh4A
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I believe it was shot in 2017 and had a long wait for funding to finish the edit or similar. There’ll be a dead link to the original trailer if you scroll back through this thread far enough.
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Recently added a few vids of grit headpoints from late last year to youtube. Couple of new routes in there, might be of interest to some:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCZ4xrCDL_E
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCU3bvIKrMX35ss_2pFSc87A
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:wub: Love Rivelin
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WRT Killer Piller, i thought it looked ok (i watched it in two minutes). But the people seemed totally like the people you meet at american climbing campsites and the characters' behavoiurs seemed pretty realistic. And the climbing looked like climbing and it looked like it was done by the actors who I thought also acted ok? And the place was beautiful.
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https://youtu.be/xc4-ggN2b04
Some Malaysian lads climb Naga on the Dragon's Horns, Tioman Island. They climb, they get wet, and have a bivi on the summit. Captures the place and what an adventure it was for them. A bit too much head-spinning GoPro but compensated with some great drone shots and an unpretentious tone to it all.
More about Tioman and the route here (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29579.msg570171.html#msg570171).
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After weeks of waiting, it's here. A coming-of-age classic chronicling the mythical Sam Marks' odyssey from overweight whelp to climbing lion.
Mullet 2020
https://youtu.be/iPm2YCVFb5U
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Nicely developed that. Ace. 🙂
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Controversial putting it in non-quality, Sam Marks won't be happy when he hears that.
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#SamMarks
The reincarnation of the illustrious scut with a mullet
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https://youtu.be/C5-KY0dBpEg
De l'O2 dans le gaz looks like a great find on Verdon's left bank. Insane exposure at the relatively moderate grade of 8a+/b apparently. It is a pity that it is so far from the climbing on the right bank (unless you have a helicopter). Close to Ramirole though.
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Not sure if this will work as it's a facebook video
Nick Dixon putting up another new E8 , what a legend
https://www.facebook.com/501818648/videos/10158509137748649/
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Not sure if this will work as it's a facebook video
Nick Dixon putting up another new E8 , what a legend
https://www.facebook.com/501818648/videos/10158509137748649/
That's mega, that look in his eyes as he's lashing for the top! :popcorn:
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Nick fucking Dixon :punk:
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Uncut video of Action Direct
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQvoFWTC9M8
Useful for anyone who needs to know how to train for AD.
Climbing time 66 s
Longest contact time on a hold: 13.5 s
Average contact time: 8s
Median contact: 7.9s
Longest contact free time between holds: 4s
Average contact free time 1s
Median contact free time: 0.4 s
Remind me again why 7:3 repeaters are supposed to mimic strength endurance efforts? Instead of 8:1?
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Nice video despite the front-on angle. Not quite as fun as your maths / ranting though. Maybe something to do with moves being dynamic not static, and having feet on??
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Progress at Kilnsey. The actual ascent starts at 9 min 30secs but the best footage is at 6 mins in from a close go.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ii7-bQMjbGE&t=8s (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ii7-bQMjbGE&t=8s)
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Yeah, lovely clear footage on that 6 min bit. :2thumbsup:
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,
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAGOfliy2NQ
Top quality DWS psyche material.
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That’s gotta go in the quality section surely!?
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This is mostly me talking to my camera for something to do to salvage an otherwise wasted drive, but shows a cool new sport route on Anglesey. Featuring ducks and ukulele.
Skip to 7 minutes if you want to see the climbing rather than me waffling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxkyZQWfhc4
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Brilliant! Good film. Love the climbing on that face, good onsighting territory with the orange rock and white holds..
I'd had these two lines on my new routes list for a few years but never made the effort.. must have passed them so many times on my way to Ireland to go bolting over there! Good to see them getting bolted and done. Possibly a line or two on the rh arete to do. We scoped out the middle of the face last time there - looks desperate but might be possible in the mid-high 8s. I was a bit disappointed to discover the groove to the left had been done years ago as it would have made a nice sport route. There's probably loads of decent easy stuff to do in the main quarry to the left if someone ever wanted to put in the effort of cleaning and bolting for some low grade 'A55 sport climbs' type scenes.
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Cheers Pete. Agree there's more potential there for whoever can be bothered.
I suspect that Crispin's permission might be sought at some point to bolt the Mustapha Twins...though not by me.
I think the potential route up the middle of the face would be a pretty crap line unfortunately - it would basically end up linking CC into TT, there's just too much blankness to go as a fully independent line. I suspect some of the flakes that make it just possible might not stay attached either.
The arete and groove right of CC might be OK, though the rock looks pretty flaky.
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This is mostly me talking to my camera for something to do to salvage an otherwise wasted drive, but shows a cool new sport route on Anglesey. Featuring ducks and ukulele.
Skip to 7 minutes if you want to see the climbing rather than me waffling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxkyZQWfhc4
Excellent stuff Andy. Been meaning to go here for a while now. If you get a weather window in next few weeks and need a partner for direct let me know. Off to Spain soon after that.....
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Hey cheers Adam - guessing you missed the little note at the end about the direct.
I went back on Friday to try it, but ripped a hold off the crux. It's now a huge reach (or a really terrible intermediate), so I've written it off as too hard for me. It's a shame, because I'm sure someone tall and strong can do it, but it'll be a more unbalanced route.
Open project though, with very friendly bolts for working it! :thumbsup:
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Hey cheers Adam - guessing you missed the little note at the end about the direct.
I went back on Friday to try it, but ripped a hold off the crux. It's now a huge reach (or a really terrible intermediate), so I've written it off as too hard for me. It's a shame, because I'm sure someone tall and strong can do it, but it'll be a more unbalanced route.
Open project though, with very friendly bolts for working it! :thumbsup:
Ahh ok, yes, must have missed it. Thats a shame. How tall are you?
Luckily weather is lucky grim for a bit so wall will be out of action i guess.
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I'm 5'10" with +1 ape, and it seemed for me it wouldn't be possible without my feet coming off. A couple of possible methods, but in neither case are the holds you're going for amazing.
Definitely a few interested parties, will be fun to see if it goes down when it dries up.
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I went back on Friday to try it, but ripped a hold off the crux. It's now a huge reach (or a really terrible intermediate), so I've written it off as too hard for me. It's a shame, because I'm sure someone tall and strong can do it, but it'll be a more unbalanced route.
Sounds like it would be worth glueing the hold back on?
Great vid, really enjoyed it.
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Hi Andy, any idea what it’d be like to link the start of TRS into TTT or vice versa. I’m not in the market for a cruxy 8a but would be interested in 7c cop out version!
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Sounds like it would be worth glueing the hold back on?
It shattered into several pieces unfortunately.
Hi Andy, any idea what it’d be like to link the start of TRS into TTT or vice versa. I’m not in the market for a cruxy 8a but would be interested in 7c cop out version!
Well the vice versa you'd still have the bouldery crux of TT, but that would definitely work. And yeah the TRS - TTT link should work, maybe a bit draggy at the top but ok with a couple of extended roller draws where the direction changes. If I end up going back I'd probably try that, the TT finish is so good.
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Come to think of it, you could also climb TTT into the project line by moving up left from the rest. Gonna be one of those venues... ::)
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Photoshot 8b at the Lab Sector from my recent trip to Margalef. The send starts at 6:28 but I've included a load of failure footage before to provide some context.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXPJlVseyFM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXPJlVseyFM)
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Unsure where to put this, but it is most definitively not quality.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lN9PvHpNrs
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mixed feelings. Some incredible footage showing why Squamish should be on every climbers wishlist (just been paging through guidebook!), and difficult subject matter, but presented in a hopelessly melodramatic way.
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I feel like if that film had better dialogue or, possibly even better, didn’t have dialogue at all (you could have the couple yelling at each other but with music over the top) it could really be pretty good.
At some point someone’s decided that the climbing footage is too slow and the solution is to speed it up and that was a really bad decision.
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Ming the Merciless 8a+/8b on Garage Buttress at Stoney. Zippy's route right of Little Plum from 2007.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOaJA6IkFP8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOaJA6IkFP8)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8-nrzA_3KQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8-nrzA_3KQ)
Not sure if this fits in exactly but it's about routes and I made it so I guess so?
Quite sure even the biggest climbing history buffs will learn something (how many people know about Orujo, suggested 9a+ and it's artificial holds?) bar maybe Remus (the site was a great reference btw, thanks!)
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I'm reading Tides at the moment and found myself googling the Slovak Direct on Denali. It turned up Houseman's own video of his and Bullocks ascent. Fairly low production values so can't put it in Quality vids but definitely worth 20 mins for the POV of a fantastic looking route.
For context it's a two day technical approach from base camp on the other side of the mountain. You've then got 3000m of vertical with overhanging rock and ice finishing in an exhausting snow bash up the Cassin Ridge. They set off from base with 4 meals and 5 days worth of gels. Because of the size of the route you won't have enough gear for the belays if you were to try and retreat from about half way up. So you either do it or you... die, I guess? Rad.
https://youtu.be/QUMHPnV8qz0?si=wb_FAM6JWqF6RXfl
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Have you read Steve House’s book? A pivotal ascent in his career too.
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Beyond the Mountain? Not read it. Any good?
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I thought it was a great read.