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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: remus on February 05, 2020, 01:12:32 pm

Title: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 05, 2020, 01:12:32 pm
Will bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 05, 2020, 01:23:09 pm
Beast!
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2020, 01:30:32 pm
Surely IOC should give Olympic wildcards to comp climbers who tick a 9b outdoors?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Fiend on February 05, 2020, 01:36:17 pm
Well that's a bloody good effort.

Always was giving off fun vibes when he got into IFSC semis or finals too.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: gme on February 05, 2020, 02:09:23 pm
Great news. Don’t think he’s being trying it long.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: shark on February 05, 2020, 02:15:09 pm
Will bosi has done La Capella, 9b.

How do you know? He posted on Instagram that he fell off the jugs at the top yesterday
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Bradders on February 05, 2020, 02:51:20 pm
Will bosi has done La Capella, 9b.

How do you know? He posted on Instagram that he fell off the jugs at the top yesterday

Video or it didn't happen  :-\ :lol:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: teestub on February 05, 2020, 03:26:24 pm

Video or it didn't happen  :-\ :lol:

Can’t believe Shark is calling out Bosi!  :lol:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: nai on February 05, 2020, 03:30:48 pm
Doesn't remus work for Lattice who train/sponsor/work with Will?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Doylo on February 05, 2020, 04:28:26 pm
Must be one of the quickest ascents of a 9b.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Will Hunt on February 05, 2020, 04:55:14 pm
Remus has used his Lattice data hoard to create a model that can perfectly predict how long it will take Climber X to complete Project Y. He doesn't need to hear from Bosi that he's done it; from the exact moment that Bosi decided to try it, Remus knew to the second when the chains would be clipped.

I heard that he once fed in the parameters for Shark climbing the Oak. Inside Lattice HQ the control panels start to flash manically, the banks of supercomputers begin to smoke and explode, sirens wail, the lights turn red, blast doors start to close. Megos runs in*.
"Ve haff an instability in ze core! It's going into meltdown! Shut it down, Remus, shut it down!"











*Why Megos? Because he has the German accent that this tale needs.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2020, 05:07:56 pm
I heard it was still computing the result. It kept getting to a certain line of code involving the string ending with HORN, then rebooting.




(i know shit all about computers and programming)
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: 36chambers on February 05, 2020, 05:47:26 pm
I heard it was still computing the result. It kept getting to a certain line of code involving the string ending with HORN, then rebooting.

there was actually a bug in the code and it's stuck in an infinite loop.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: shark on February 05, 2020, 05:49:36 pm

Video or it didn't happen  :-\ :lol:

Can’t believe Shark is calling out Bosi!  :lol:

As if. This is a big tick. Just wanted to double check that remus hadn't misread his Instagram post.   
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 05, 2020, 06:24:13 pm

Video or it didn't happen  :-\ :lol:

Can’t believe Shark is calling out Bosi!  :lol:

As if. This is a big tick. Just wanted to double check that remus hadn't misread his Instagram post.

Heard it from Tom, I assume Will sent him a text.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 05, 2020, 06:25:53 pm
Must be one of the quickest ascents of a 9b.

He's skipped 9a+ too! Such a boring grade anyway.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: jwi on February 05, 2020, 06:52:01 pm
3 days according to fanatic climbing. Must be the fastest ascent of a 9b ever by someone who's not Ondra. Not even Jacob Schubert has done one in less than a week.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: teestub on February 05, 2020, 09:41:45 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/B8MW1F6pAs4/ Just for Shark's benefit.

What a monster!
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Doylo on February 06, 2020, 08:12:52 am
Only took 125 days less than Mcclure’s 9b. I bet it’s easier though  :fishing:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 06, 2020, 06:33:44 pm
Only took 125 days less than Mcclure’s 9b. I bet it’s easier though  :fishing:

Mutation is looking pretty tricky given how much time Will (and several other 9a beasts) have put in to it. I think it's fair to say Rainman isn't going to be soft.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Wood FT on February 06, 2020, 10:33:17 pm
Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Andy F on February 06, 2020, 11:12:16 pm
Let's be honest, Mutation is 9a+. At least.

It's sat in the middle of the most popular hard sport crag close to the most climber populated city in the UK and no-one has repeated it in 22 years.

No locals, no visiting wads. No-one.

Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 07, 2020, 08:37:25 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?

I agree that Rainman is likely to get some attention from the beasts soon. Probably doesn't help Mutation's cause that that crux move simply looks a bit grim...
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Ru on February 07, 2020, 08:44:51 am
Probably doesn't help Mutation's cause that that crux move simply looks a bit grim...

Crux move is cool. The climbing above that is grim. Very small holds.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 07, 2020, 08:49:27 am

Crux move is cool. The climbing above that is grim. Very small holds.

Makes sense. To be fair, sections of Rainman also look grim. Probably goes with the territory on hard UK routes.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: SA Chris on February 07, 2020, 09:00:37 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?


Did he say why?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Doylo on February 07, 2020, 09:24:12 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?


Did he say why?

Far too fat. Definitely a route for feathers.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: James Malloch on February 07, 2020, 09:29:12 am
Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.

Aren’t a few people close to Mutation? Pete & Will?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: SA Chris on February 07, 2020, 10:16:30 am
Remember reading once that Sharma said Mutation was impossible for him; accurate or apocryphal?


Did he say why?

Fuck, counts me out too, was going for the onsight this year.

Far too fat. Definitely a route for feathers.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 07, 2020, 11:38:57 am
I think it was because he realised it would require putting some time in and the hour he'd already spent at Raven tor was more than enough.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: User deactivated on February 07, 2020, 12:23:40 pm

Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.

Aren’t a few people close to Mutation? Pete & Will?

Not Sure how close Bosi is or was, he gets to try very rarely, I do know he thought the crux was nails though, mutterings about harder than Practice of the Wild.

Pete hasn't done the boulder in one yet, how hard do you have to climb to get there? So not that close I guess that would mean, to be close surely you have to be on redpoint? He's a monster though and his drive to do something once it's on his radar is totally unrelenting.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: James Malloch on February 07, 2020, 01:01:58 pm

Rainman will be repeated before Mutation in my (complete arse on armchair) opinion.

Aren’t a few people close to Mutation? Pete & Will?

Not Sure how close Bosi is or was, he gets to try very rarely, I do know he thought the crux was nails though, mutterings about harder than Practice of the Wild.

Pete hasn't done the boulder in one yet, how hard do you have to climb to get there? So not that close I guess that would mean, to be close surely you have to be on redpoint? He's a monster though and his drive to do something once it's on his radar is totally unrelenting.

Ah fair enough. I was chatting to someone at the wall who’d said Pete was getting close. Be ace when it does get a repeat!
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on February 07, 2020, 01:05:22 pm

Not Sure how close Bosi is or was, he gets to try very rarely, I do know he thought the crux was nails though, mutterings about harder than Practice of the Wild.

Pete hasn't done the boulder in one yet, how hard do you have to climb to get there? So not that close I guess that would mean, to be close surely you have to be on redpoint? He's a monster though and his drive to do something once it's on his radar is totally unrelenting.

I think Im right in saying Will was getting to the crux pretty reliably but hasn't stuck it yet. He's done the boulder in isolation though. From memory you climb most of evolution to get to the boulder problem.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: cheque on February 07, 2020, 04:38:58 pm
I believe the Sharma quote is "I will never climb this route". Open to interpretation.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: crimpinainteasy on February 16, 2020, 06:08:51 pm
I believe the Sharma quote is "I will never climb this route". Open to interpretation.

Does this mean that it's an enormous sandbag, probably closer to hard 9a+ than 9a?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Ged on February 16, 2020, 09:31:01 pm
Or its really grim and he has no desire to ever do it.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: shark on February 16, 2020, 10:46:30 pm
Grimness is in the eye of the beholder
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: duncan on January 31, 2021, 05:37:27 pm
If I’ve interpreted Alizée Dufraisse’s IG story correctly, Will Bosi has climbed the project right of La Capella (Last Night 9a+? in the POD-Andrada guidebook).
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: teestub on January 31, 2021, 09:48:35 pm
I love how Bosi has stopped posting after taking some stick for his ‘indoor climbing training trip’, but he keeps on getting tagged by other people 🤣
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on January 31, 2021, 10:06:10 pm
Juicy. Can't see anything in Alizée's IG story though, I guess it may have joined the disappearing posts?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: duncan on February 01, 2021, 08:18:25 pm
Juicy. Can't see anything in Alizée's IG story though, I guess it may have joined the disappearing posts?

Footage from WB on the first 10m or so of the Last Night line disappeared. It looked as you would expect a short bouldery 9-something.

It is a shame he feels he has to keep quiet about this. I have no issue with someone based in Cornudella climbing 5 miles up the road, presuming he travelled to Spain when it was permitted.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on February 01, 2021, 08:51:17 pm
... presuming he travelled to Spain when it was permitted.

And therein lies the rub.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Ru on February 01, 2021, 10:15:27 pm
There are also a surprising number of instagram posts showing people who don't live in wales, climbing in wales.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: tomtom on February 02, 2021, 07:38:23 am
And other climbers (inc those with sponsors) clearly climbing away from their local area - climbing in groups. I’ve started unfollowing as it’s wound me up (sorry - thread hijack)
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Anti on February 02, 2021, 10:52:06 am
It rubbed me a bit in the first lockdown, people in Yorkshire one day, Wales the next.  One particular famous North Wales climber was at home one day and then a few days later complaining about rule breakers in the Lake District, which I found peculiar, glass houses and all.

I'm inclined to care less about it these days though. Upon reflection I'm not sure what part of it really annoys me. I've broken the rules too so who is the arbiter of what amount of rule breaking is morally fine. Surely only a person can judge for themselves. I'm under the impression that all of it is pretty minimal (if any) risk of spreading infection, and I don't care that "it's the rule/law so just do it" sort of bullshit. So maybe I'm just being a jealous twat and that's not a quality I want to identify with, so I let it wash over. Or try to.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Davo on February 02, 2021, 11:36:41 am
It rubbed me a bit in the first lockdown, people in Yorkshire one day, Wales the next.  One particular famous North Wales climber was at home one day and then a few days later complaining about rule breakers in the Lake District, which I found peculiar, glass houses and all.

I'm inclined to care less about it these days though. Upon reflection I'm not sure what part of it really annoys me. I've broken the rules too so who is the arbiter of what amount of rule breaking is morally fine. Surely only a person can judge for themselves. I'm under the impression that all of it is pretty minimal (if any) risk of spreading infection, and I don't care that "it's the rule/law so just do it" sort of bullshit. So maybe I'm just being a jealous twat and that's not a quality I want to identify with, so I let it wash over. Or try to.

I agree with all of this. If anyone can convince me that driving to Boulder somewhere (after fuelling up locally and taking all your own food) is increasing transmission risk then I am happy to change my opinion. Otherwise I really don’t see an issue with driving and climbing. I havent myself but this is simply out of respect to the wishes of my partner. If it was just me I certainly would
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: andy popp on March 29, 2021, 07:14:27 am
Bosi breaks cover in Spain with a report of 9b+, 9b, and 9a FAs, and 9a+ and 2 x 9a repeats in Margalef. Details on 8a.nu.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Bradders on March 29, 2021, 08:19:13 am
Details on 8a.nu.

https://www.8a.nu/news/king-capella-9b+-fa-and-9b-fa-etc-by-will-bosi-hc28s

Also 

:jaw:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on March 29, 2021, 08:39:42 am
That's quite the ticklist! Good to see the new generation taking over from Steve.

ed. Just finished updating the list and have a few stats for you. If the grade sticks, this makes King Capella only the 5th route in the world at 9b+ and Will the 6th climber in the world to climb 9b+ or harder. Obviously the first brit to climb 9b+ and first brit to FA a 9b+.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Offwidth on March 29, 2021, 08:49:19 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Teaboy on March 29, 2021, 09:03:08 am
Staggering! Does anyone know what sectors these are on 8a.nu is pretty detail free
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Fiend on March 29, 2021, 09:06:11 am
That's pretty cool. Perfecto Mundo before the ondra next?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: 36chambers on March 29, 2021, 09:14:33 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).

@7:50 from today's show.

I found it funny how as soon as they finished the interview they went straight into a lockdown restrictions segment.

Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: teestub on March 29, 2021, 09:16:11 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).

Whaaat? Was that today? He’s obviously got a good PR person!

Quite the holiday haul.

Be interesting to see how this ‘training trip’ improves his World Cup performance!

Edit just seen 36C post  :lol:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Bradders on March 29, 2021, 09:34:17 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).

@7:50 from today's show.

I found it funny how as soon as they finished the interview they went straight into a lockdown restrictions segment.

Haha brilliant!
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Teaboy on March 29, 2021, 09:54:59 am
Staggering! Does anyone know what sectors these are on 8a.nu is pretty detail free

This clears things up a bit:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/03/first_ascent_of_king_capella_9b+_by_will_bosi-72733
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: petejh on March 29, 2021, 11:41:09 am
Bizzare watching Will on BBC breakfast (and discussion of Beastmakers).

Whaaat? Was that today? He’s obviously got a good PR person!

Quite the holiday haul.

Be interesting to see how this ‘training trip’ improves his World Cup performance!

Edit just seen 36C post  :lol:

Not a climbing holiday.. according to the report it's training for the coming season of indoor comps, by hanging out in Spain for 3 months redpointing grade 9s. :lol:
Although GB team climbers do have access to indoor training facilities as part of elite sport rules for this very purpose..
It's also a 'longer term campaign of preparation for the next Olympic cycle'... :lol:
..following which logic, everybody else's lockdown-dodging climbing excursions over the past 12 months are their 'longer-term campaign of preparation for the next <insert selfish self-justification here> - grit season, Pembroke Easter trip, Malham campaign, E5 o/s or 'that route I'd love to do in the Dolomites one day when I'm going well'..

The report on ukc reads like Bosi has hired Dominic Cummins' press agent. I wish he'd drop the bullshit PR and just call it what it is  - a climbing holiday during lockdown, when we aren't supposed to be travelling. People aren't stupid.

Great to see standards rising though.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: gme on March 29, 2021, 11:47:58 am
Thats not true though Pete, he went to Spain back in December and has stayed there so hes been following the rules of not travelling and hes now isolating on return. If he followed the Spanish rules when he was there hes done nothing wrong as far as i can see.

Back on track. Amazing effort Will, properly world class performance that puts him up there with some of the very best. Changing of the guard from Steve i guess and also confirms the future of climbing is with comp climbers thread.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: petejh on March 29, 2021, 11:51:15 am
If that's the case then fair enough, perhaps I'm being unfair. It's not the impression I get from others making trips to Spain and elsewhere over the last few months..
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 11:55:33 am
Impressive stuff.
However, Pete is right, Gav is wrong, and calling it a training trip is a load of bollocks. More importantly, Will's grammar and spelling is terrible (see his insta) so deduct 2 grades.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Dexter on March 29, 2021, 12:34:07 pm
Staggering! Does anyone know what sectors these are on 8a.nu is pretty detail free

This clears things up a bit:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/03/first_ascent_of_king_capella_9b+_by_will_bosi-72733

Where it says he's the first to climb 9b+ didn't Ondra think Rainman was 9b+? What's more recognised a 9b+ FA or a proposed upgrade from one of (if not the) best climber in the world.

Also that's one impressive tick list.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: jwi on March 29, 2021, 12:45:46 pm
You cannot upgrade a route you haven't done, even if you are Adam Ondra.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Dexter on March 29, 2021, 12:47:25 pm
Fair point
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 12:47:51 pm
didn't Ondra think Rainman was 9b+?
Got a link? https://steve-mcclure.com/articles/136-9b-or-not-9b-that-is-the-question suggests Ondra thought ~9b would be about right from his play on it.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on March 29, 2021, 12:57:02 pm
What Barrows said. Im pretty sure Ondra thought 9b, maybe in this vid? (I havent watched it through to check)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkdGK0d8iOk

Ignoring any questionable travel decisions, I think it's totally fair to call it a training trip. He's a professional climber practicing his sport. I know I'd definitely be climbing a lot better if I spent 3 months in spain vs 3 months on a woody.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: teestub on March 29, 2021, 01:24:31 pm

Ignoring any questionable travel decisions, I think it's totally fair to call it a training trip. He's a professional climber practicing his sport. I know I'd definitely be climbing a lot better if I spent 3 months in spain vs 3 months on a woody.

I think if he’d had sole use of Ratho for the last three months and imported a world class setting team to keep him interested, I don’t think anyone would be batting an eyelid. Likewise if he’d said ‘I’m a professional rock climber so I’m travelling to try some hard rock climbs’.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 01:53:34 pm
Ignoring any questionable travel decisions, I think it's totally fair to call it a training trip. He's a professional climber practicing his sport. I know I'd definitely be climbing a lot better if I spent 3 months in spain vs 3 months on a woody.

You can call it what you want, but it strikes me as a poor attempt at spin to pre-empt criticism given the context... although I think it being "work" only solves the problem of one of the two border restrictions anyway. The "work" thing for pro climbers is bollocks anyway - climbers are "influencers" or comp athletes; the latter don't need to climb rock and the former means anyone getting free stuff ever can claim that anything resulting in an insta post is "work" to evade restrictions. Pete sounds like he's like me - I don't really mind people having broken the rules, but lame attempts at justifications (or outright lies) annoy me (although I probably can't create a good argument to justify my own stance on that!).
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: gme on March 29, 2021, 02:15:36 pm
Jealousy might be a good one. ;)
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on March 29, 2021, 02:33:24 pm
Will is a pro climber, it was a work trip. He also works outside with 1 belaying colleague so the risk of spreading anything was pretty low. It would have been a bit crap for his sponsors if he'd just have holed up under his board for months. I'm glad he did it, he's now elevated himself to the absolute top ranks.If the rope access contractors had managed to secure an essential maintenance job in Spain, I'm sure they'd have sent guys out.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 02:51:52 pm
Will is a pro climber, it was a work trip. He also works outside with 1 belaying colleague so the risk of spreading anything was pretty low. It would have been a bit crap for his sponsors if he'd just have holed up under his board for months. I'm glad he did it, he's now elevated himself to the absolute top ranks.If the rope access contractors had managed to secure an essential maintenance job in Spain, I'm sure they'd have sent guys out.

You did just miss the entire point about the nature of sponsorship and "work" in the age of instagram, and the fact that it wouldn't solve one of the border rule issues anyway (I kept that in small font earlier for a reason, but if others are going to drag this out I can't be bothered changing font every time). But nice try.

Also
If the rope access contractors had managed to secure an essential maintenance job in Spain, I'm sure they'd have sent guys out.
is some bewilderingly false equivalence.

Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on March 29, 2021, 02:59:53 pm
But Barrows, there are a few climbers like Seb Bouin who don't do comps and rely on the outdoor stuff. I dont understand why not doing anything outdoors for months wouldn't be bad for the profile and hence sponsors. I'm assuming Will gets paid so why would months without anything newsworthy be good? Unless you think that social media means that they don't have to do actual rock climbing?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: andy popp on March 29, 2021, 03:10:38 pm
8a.nu report updated

'Alex Megos comments "I tried two of this FA's there and they are hard! Both of them 9b for sure. The one he thought was easier I couldn't do one move. On "King Capella" I did all the moves, but linking then will be very hard. I'd be super psyched to go and try to repeat his routes at some point! 😁 Very strong lad 💪🏼."'
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on March 29, 2021, 03:20:01 pm
Speaking as someone who has been trying and failing to get out to Spain for legitimate work purposes on a project that can only be done by my team and that is impairing operations of a telescope that costs in excess of £50,000 per night to run - the idea that climbers are somehow exempt from the travel restrictions that were in place is :shit:

Will’s ticklist is proper next-gen stuff that shows a genuine leap forward for UK climbing.

I think it was a mistake for him to travel out, but we all make mistakes. Like Alex, it’s the excruciatingly carefully worded PR track-covering like “ Will, having complied with covid restrictions during his stay in Spain, is now back in the UK” that winds me up. I can’t imagine my grumpy disapproval will take too much of the shine off Will’s ticklist for him.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 03:20:33 pm
There's lots of overlapping things here:
1. Flouting restrictions:
Less said the better

2. Sounding like a load of PR spin bollocks:
I'm with Pete, especially when it comes to someone writing this up as training for comps (as teestub said)

3. Do you need to travel to work as a pro climber:
Pro climbers are basically influencers nowadays - they don't get paid to climb, they get paid to have followers, likes, "engagement", etc. You might need to tweak your "content model" but not going climbing in Europe for a while wouldn't necessarily reduce followers (just look at Shauna). It's certainly not essential. Also what would your cutoff be? 10k/yr? 20/yr? 2?? Free stuff? perhaps some "volunteering" ;) (I think this was probably aimed at the likes of Megos using the "work" tag to avoid German quarantine rules, but has crossover to the broader point: https://www.instagram.com/p/CJbem_KhtD1/?hl=en)
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Will Hunt on March 29, 2021, 03:27:13 pm
Sign of the times. The PR spin is just there to try and head off the moaning pissbags who scour the world for anything that might be deemed a COVID infraction. A baby with croup in a supermarket, a child stroking a cat that isn't theirs, somebody doing yoga in a park: all met with screeches of outrage from the miserable self-appointed marshalls that we're now plagued by.


Why the Bosi beef? Nobody batted an eyelid when Molly Thompson-Smith came back from Frankenjura and then (presumably) paid for a test so she could hit the grit soon after arriving.
(I've no problem with MTS, just thought the inconsistency was worth pointing out.)
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 03:30:48 pm
I don't think you've read Pete's, mine or Stu's posts very well.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: petejh on March 29, 2021, 03:35:06 pm
You can call it what you want, but it strikes me as a poor attempt at spin to pre-empt criticism given the context... although I think it being "work" only solves the problem of one of the two border restrictions anyway. The "work" thing for pro climbers is bollocks anyway - climbers are "influencers" or comp athletes; the latter don't need to climb rock and the former means anyone getting free stuff ever can claim that anything resulting in an insta post is "work" to evade restrictions.

This. The 'pro' climber thing has always been almost complete bollocks for 99.9% of climbers, even top climbers - climbing hard is a lifestyle choice, not a job. The miniscule number of individuals making a living from it just proves the point. A mountain guide is much more of a 'job'.
Bosi is using the 'pro athlete' line. Fair enough, he is a very good indoor comp climber. But indoor comp athletes do not need to swan off to hang out in Spain for 3 months of dirtbagging and redpointing routes for specific, or even general, training relevant to their event. In the same way that premiership footballers don't need to go on a nice holiday to Majorca and do a bit of daily jogging and playing 5-a-side on the beach whilst there.

Pete sounds like he's like me - I don't really mind people having broken the rules, but lame attempts at justifications (or outright lies) annoy me (although I probably can't create a good argument to justify my own stance on that!).

This. I don't really mind people bending rules to go climbing. But spinning and using bullshit is something I find annoying and offensive - because ultimately bullshit is always designed to deceive and and manipulate. Not a good look or way to be. 
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on March 29, 2021, 03:40:53 pm
In reply to Will:

Because travelling from Germany and using the test-to-release scheme is entirely in line with current restrictions?  :shrug:

Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 03:41:52 pm
But spinning and using bullshit is something I find annoying and offensive - because ultimately bullshit is always designed to deceive and and manipulate. Not a good look or way to be.
This is a nice way to articulate why this kind of stuff winds me up.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Will Hunt on March 29, 2021, 03:46:14 pm
I don't think you've read Pete's, mine or Stu's posts very well.

I'm not saying that you are one of the moaning pissbags, I'm just trying to explain that the arse-covering (someone said it was "Will, having complied with covid restrictions during his stay in Spain, is now back in the UK" - I wouldn't know since I haven't read the article/watched the TV) is only there to stop the pissbags in their tracks before the froth forms in their mouths. Have you not watched anything on telly in the last year?
"Filmed in compliance with government guidance"
"Filmed before the COVID pandemic"
"All the actors quarantined in a hotel during production"
etc etc etc

Anybody with something more than a Big Mac patty for a brain knows already that those statements are the case, but if they don't put it in then they'll get reams of complaints from lobotomised busybodies who think they've struck upon a goldmine of non-compliance.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Will Hunt on March 29, 2021, 03:48:58 pm
In reply to Will:

Because travelling from Germany and using the test-to-release scheme is entirely in line with current restrictions?  :shrug:

Bosi has also complied with the restictions? Or is it that somebody reporting on his trip has pointed out that he complied with the restrictions that's upset people?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on March 29, 2021, 03:51:13 pm
Which is why Alex said that you’ve missed the point of our posts. And we are very much one of the moaning piss-bags.

Reason being - that statement is carefully worded to avoid saying that Will was allowed to travel to Spain in the first place. Because he wasn’t.

Bosi may have complied with the restrictions whilst in Spain, but given that  at the time he went out, climbers from Tarragona weren’t allowed to go to Siurana/Margalef, it’s hard to see how.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: T_B on March 29, 2021, 03:53:21 pm
It’s perhaps easier for those whose livelihoods are fairly unaffected by the pandemic to give Bosi a free pass.

I very much doubt Adidas need him to be climbing in Spain and if he’s on the payroll then why not furlough him if he’s unable to do his ‘job’?

And yes, the spin sticks in the craw.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: petejh on March 29, 2021, 03:55:22 pm

Why the Bosi beef?

It's simply taking the piss, that's why.

If you're going to take the piss it isn't a good idea to then publicly advertise your piss-taking, and attempt to justify your piss-taking with crafted spin PR bullshit.

And it's not beef with an individual per se, I'm sure Will Bosi is a lovely guy. It's just calling out bullshit where it raises its ugly head. If you think the 'pro climber' justification is a good one for going off on climbing holidays recently, then fuck it I'm off on my travels around Europe next week, woohoo! On the pretext that I'm doing it for the 'gram and building my base of followers. That's all most pro climbers are. (Charko are you there? )
As pointed out, you don't need - or even benefit from - a redpointing holiday to train for the indoor comp season. The PR bollocks suggesting that you do is just offensive to the notion of honesty.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Will Hunt on March 29, 2021, 04:02:04 pm
Reason being - that statement is carefully worded to avoid saying that Will was allowed to travel to Spain in the first place. Because he wasn’t.

This is the bit I wasn't aware of.

I'm passed passing judgement on others for their Covid indiscretions, so I'm out of the conversation at this point. I've generally been very well behaved with one or two moments of weakness. I'm sure we all have. Not my neighbours though, who have their parents round to clean the house once a week, and who go over to their's for Sunday lunch, and who've had their mates round for drinks in the garden recently. I just can't bring myself to anger about it any more.

But please, piss away, moaning pissbags. I admire your staying power.  :)
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 04:09:10 pm
Like I said

[author=abarro81 link=topic=30451.msg634123#msg634123 date=1617022414]
I don't really mind people having broken the rules, but lame attempts at justifications (or outright lies) annoy me
[/quote]
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: IanP on March 29, 2021, 04:10:00 pm
8a.nu report updated

'Alex Megos comments "I tried two of this FA's there and they are hard! Both of them 9b for sure. The one he thought was easier I couldn't do one move. On "King Capella" I did all the moves, but linking then will be very hard. I'd be super psyched to go and try to repeat his routes at some point! 😁 Very strong lad 💪🏼."'

Seems like this is a proper impressive tick list - have thought for a bit that it looks like maybe Bosi is better suited to outdoor climbing that comps?

On the whole should he/shouldn't he, should we move this to a separate topic if people still want to discuss it?  This seems to be a truly world class performance by a British sport climber worth discussion on its own merits. 
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on March 29, 2021, 04:12:53 pm
So pro climbing isn't a proper job and enough coverage can be generated on social media without having to climb hard routes. Will's sponsorability has probably increased massively after that trip, therefore it was essential for him.Worth remembering that a lot of his competitors have access to that stuff already. He could have tapped the government for the self employment grants but he'll probably be on contracts so less likely he'd qualify. A lot of you guys are probably still working or on Furlough so don't begrudge someone trying to make a living in a extremely hard way.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on March 29, 2021, 04:15:05 pm
Thread split is a good idea.

I’m quite happy to consider being a pro climber as a proper job that allows someone to travel for work. My point is that even those of us who need to travel for work haven’t been able to get to Spain, so the issue of whether this was valid work travel is irrelevant.

Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on March 29, 2021, 04:22:00 pm
Sounds like Will kind of sneaked in by the back door. He's not done anything illegal though, plus we've got a Brit climbing 9B+.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 04:22:50 pm
it looks like maybe Bosi is better suited to outdoor climbing that comps?

Yeah, I think he's better on a "real" hold that the slopey volume style so is really freakin' good outdoors

So pro climbing isn't a proper job
Like I said, nowadays I think it's mostly either a subset of "influencer" (or "competitive athlete"). Hence why some 9a+ climbers get the odd free shoe and some 8c+ climbers are full-time pro.

and enough coverage can be generated on social media without having to climb hard routes.
Have you seen SBC's insta following? ;) Don't take it from me, take it from Jorg. Bear in mind that restrictions are temporary too.

Will's sponsorability has probably increased massively after that trip, therefore it was essential for him.
This is an erroneous conclusion. My job would have been much easier, and my work output better, going to China a few times last year but that didn't make the trips essential. 

don't begrudge someone trying to make a living in a extremely hard way.
You are spectacularly missing the points here.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: mr chaz on March 29, 2021, 04:23:48 pm
Sounds like Will kind of sneeked in by the back door. He's not done anything illegal though, plus we've got a Brit climbing 9B+.

You should be writing Will's press releases  :lol:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 04:28:33 pm
Sounds like Will kind of sneeked in by the back door. He's not done anything illegal though

If by sneaked in the back door you mean walked past the doorman whilst the closed sign was up but he wasn't looking, then wrote some PR bullshit about travelling by Si O'Connor's horse and cart and obeying all the restrictions once in the club then yes. Otherwise perhaps not. It's ironic that were it not for those leaping to the defence of Will's PR team no-one would have felt the need to so explicitly point out the infraction. Hoist by your own (team's) petard...
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on March 29, 2021, 04:34:52 pm
Christ its hard to get past you Barrows, you can dismantle every statement. You win. Perhaps if you got paid to climb, rather than just free boots you'd understand, or do you get paid?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: petejh on March 29, 2021, 04:39:11 pm
What exactly would he understand if he was 'paid to climb', that he currently doesn't?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on March 29, 2021, 04:43:00 pm
Ok Pete, I take it you've ceased all operations?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: gme on March 29, 2021, 04:46:54 pm
I thought travel to Spain for EU citizens was allowed before Christmas although from the UK it depended on what tier your place of residence was in.  I know a few people how went to visit family over there and also others went all over the world legally, notable the countries favorite Captain Tom and his trip to Barbados. And you can come back into the country now as long as you isolate, again i know of a few people doing so.

I personally dont give a shite and thing Will was fine going.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on March 29, 2021, 04:48:54 pm
Exactly gme.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 04:57:32 pm
Ha, do I hell. I basically get paid to dismantle reports for useful information  ;)
I understand why Will went to Spain against the rules (I was a hair's breadth away from making a similar call). I understand why he wants to publicise his hard stuff (from both an ego and a career perspective). But... I think he needs to listen to his PR team less. I think he played it wrong both initially (hence me taking the piss on his insta) and now has played it wrong again. Like Pete said
spinning and using bullshit is something I find annoying and offensive

Since people seem intent on dragging this out, there was a a French entry restriction with no work exemption, but apparently the border/customs agents weren't checking paperwork other than covid tests between the full border shutdown and the transition end-date (not sure on Scot/Eng and inter-municipality Catalunyan work exemptions or not, for getting around those rules). I know/know-of >4 separate people/groups who got across during this period, and if my finger had been less injured I might have made the call to be one of them because I'm a morally dubious kinda guy. But I wouldn't then have written some disingenuous bullshit about following rules.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on March 29, 2021, 05:06:30 pm
You're just argumentative Barrows but it adds something and even you could have made a similar decision. It seems a shame that an 8b+ onsighter can't get paid
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 05:19:33 pm
You're just argumentative Barrows
I can't argue with that, much to my disappointment
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Andy W on March 29, 2021, 05:52:15 pm
You're just argumentative Barrows but it adds something and even you could have made a similar decision. It seems a shame that an 8b+ onsighter can't get paid

You can get paid on sighting 8b+, who pays for that? Can I get paid digging out and cleaning FA 7's?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 06:37:01 pm
You can get paid on sighting 8b+, who pays for that? Can I get paid digging out and cleaning FA 7's?

Stu did once make me a flapjack if that counts.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: petejh on March 29, 2021, 06:49:40 pm
Ok Pete, I take it you've ceased all operations?

We’re currently carrying out work that at least carries some pretence of being useful - maintenance and removing redundant assets on nuclear power stations. Although you could easily persuade me that most construction/maintenance work could have waited, during the peaks of the pandemic.

What’s going to happen if sponsored climbers don’t travel to euro crags - are the crags going to fall down?

And we aren’t stooping to writing disingenuous publicity material that has to get creative with the truth in order to justify the whole endeavour.  AKA bullshitting.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Andy W on March 29, 2021, 07:05:42 pm
You can get paid on sighting 8b+, who pays for that? Can I get paid digging out and cleaning FA 7's?

Stu did once make me a flapjack if that counts.

Is that the 8b+ or the other? A good flapjack is a fine thing.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 29, 2021, 07:32:17 pm
Actually I don't think it was either, I think it was for doing a 9a that's probably only 8c+. Bet he feels scammed.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Steve Crowe on March 29, 2021, 09:11:38 pm
Actually I don't think it was either, I think it was for doing a 9a that's probably only 8c+. Bet he feels scammed.

Ah, back in the good old days when scouring Spain for the easiest 9a wasn’t at all controversial.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on March 29, 2021, 09:22:24 pm
You misremember Steve. It was very controversial because someone suggested a downgrade after a woman did it.

Thinking more about Will’s trip, the last time I can think of a similarly impressive brits abroad ticklist it was probably Malc in Cresciano. Or Ben in the South of France.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: gme on March 29, 2021, 09:47:52 pm
Totally agree. I can’t think of anything since the 80s routes wise.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Bradders on March 29, 2021, 09:49:57 pm
Bouldering wise Aidan Roberts in Rocklands was certainly not shit.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: moose on March 29, 2021, 10:10:03 pm
Bouldering wise Aidan Roberts in Rocklands was certainly not shit.

He was pretty handy in Colorado too (Railway 8c etc. - has it been repeated?), and then there's his campaign in the Lakes.... Superpowers, Outliers, the problems at Kentmere and Coppermines.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on March 29, 2021, 10:55:42 pm
(Railway 8c etc. - has it been repeated?)

Yes, Matt Fultz has repeated it https://climbing-history.org/climb/381

Certainly not easy though, pretty sure dwoods has put decent time in and not done it.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: gme on March 30, 2021, 08:47:41 am
I was specifically thinking of the brits abroad slant and whilst Aiden doing 8Cs in the USA is impressive its not in the same league as what Will has just done.

Climbing 8C is not that uncommon, I would go as far as saying its become a regular occurrence with 100s of people doing them. 9b+ is close to cutting edge with will being the 6th.

Its up there with the 80s when Jerry and Ben went out to France and repeated all the worlds hardest routes, i cant think of another time since then that compares.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on March 30, 2021, 09:04:37 am
Yeah, undoubtedly the most successful routes trip from a Brit since I've been a climber. Wonder if he did much hard onsight and flash too? Still no Brit done 8c first try...
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: 36chambers on March 30, 2021, 09:05:29 am
I was specifically thinking of the brits abroad slant and whilst Aiden doing 8Cs in the USA is impressive its not in the same league as what Will has just done.

Climbing 8C is not that uncommon, I would go as far as saying its become a regular occurrence with 100s of people doing them. 9b+ is close to cutting edge with will being the 6th.

Its up there with the 80s when Jerry and Ben went out to France and repeated all the worlds hardest routes, i cant think of another time since then that compares.

I don't know the precise details about how it went down, but what about Mat Birch going to America and putting up the Swarm? Anyone know if it was the hardest problem in America at the time?

After Jade, I think it's still the next hard test piece that all the America wads want to do. Pretty sure Jimmy Webb left empty handed when he was last there and I'm also pretty sure there's a video of Tomoa Narasaki in tears after he couldn't do it (most likely around the same time he was dominating the comp scene).
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: gme on March 30, 2021, 09:12:34 am
Bouldering wise the one that sticks out is Ty Landman in font.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on March 30, 2021, 09:16:20 am
I was specifically thinking of the brits abroad slant and whilst Aiden doing 8Cs in the USA is impressive its not in the same league as what Will has just done.

Climbing 8C is not that uncommon, I would go as far as saying its become a regular occurrence with 100s of people doing them. 9b+ is close to cutting edge with will being the 6th.

I think it's hard to make direct comparisons between bouldering and sport like this because I think top end bouldering grades (8B+ and 8C in particular) are very broad. To make the comparison with sport grades, there are 42 routes graded 9b (2 grades below 9c) whereas there are at least 208 problems graded 8C (and likely many more, the bouldering numbers I have only go to 2019).

Depending on the 8Cs he was doing Aidan's performance could well have been in the same ball park as what Will has been up to.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: jwi on March 30, 2021, 09:24:59 am
To make the comparison with sport grades, there are 42 routes graded 9b (2 grades below 9c) whereas there are at least 208 problems graded 8C (and likely many more, the bouldering numbers I have only go to 2019).


That's just because it is a lot less effort to put up boulders than routes, surely? Finding, cleaning and climbing boulders at my max level is trivial compared to doing the same for routes in my experience.

(I have no idea if 8C is broader than 7B, obviously, so I'll have to trust the climbers who do them. If the grades are linear anyone who regularly do 8B in a session should be able to do 8C with siege tactics, and anyone who regularly do 8B+ in a session should be able to do 8C+ etc...)
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on March 30, 2021, 10:32:35 am
You get the same feeling from repeats though. I don't keep detailed records, but repeats of 8C boulders seem pretty common and I can list lots of people off the top of my head who've done them.

I have absolutely no idea about the breadth of top end boulder grades, but I think it's true at all levels that you can always find a hard boulder that suits you perfectly and thus feels easy. Not sure the same is true of routes, just because there are more moves and the law of averages applies.

I reckon those in the know have more idea how Aidan's US efforts stack up, but as a low-grade punter they didn't jump out in the same way this did.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Bradders on March 30, 2021, 10:39:25 am
9b+ is close to cutting edge with will being the 6th.

It's this bit that does it for me actually, spot on. And surely not just close to the cutting edge but right on it.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on March 30, 2021, 10:42:26 am
You get the same feeling from repeats though. I don't keep detailed records, but repeats of 8C boulders seem pretty common and I can list lots of people off the top of my head who've done them.

421 ascents of 8C boulders (up to ~2019), and 88 repeats of 9b routes for an ascents/climb of ~2 for boulders and ~2.1 for routes.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Wood FT on March 30, 2021, 10:44:37 am
The cutting edge is 9c. Sounds like splitting hairs but imagine if it was 9c+ and 10a.

I look forward to seeing how this training translates to comp climbing. I wonder if this tops coming 1st, 2nd etc in a comp, feelings wise.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on March 30, 2021, 10:52:52 am
That's just because it is a lot less effort to put up boulders than routes, surely? Finding, cleaning and climbing boulders at my max level is trivial compared to doing the same for routes in my experience.

Good point. I was trying to draw some conclusions about the shape of the grade distribution (i.e. the proportion of problems at 8C, 8C+ and 9A vs proportion of problems at 9b, 9b+ and 9c), but I think it's shaky given the low number of climbs at the upper end.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: crimpinainteasy on March 30, 2021, 03:53:44 pm
To make the comparison with sport grades, there are 42 routes graded 9b (2 grades below 9c) whereas there are at least 208 problems graded 8C (and likely many more, the bouldering numbers I have only go to 2019).


That's just because it is a lot less effort to put up boulders than routes, surely? Finding, cleaning and climbing boulders at my max level is trivial compared to doing the same for routes in my experience.

(I have no idea if 8C is broader than 7B, obviously, so I'll have to trust the climbers who do them. If the grades are linear anyone who regularly do 8B in a session should be able to do 8C with siege tactics, and anyone who regularly do 8B+ in a session should be able to do 8C+ etc...)

Seems to be different for different people. Maybe from Will's perspective, they're equally hard considering he's only climbed 8C boulder so far despite putting in the effort to improve his bouldering.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: jwi on March 30, 2021, 05:08:50 pm
My point was that since it takes absolutely ages to bolt, clean rock / cement loose holds with sika, and find out if it is climbable when hanging on a rope compared to standing on the ground it is not surprising that the world has more 8C boulders than 9b routes (if that is of equivalent difficulty---I would not know).

Of course, it is a lot faster to put up routes when David Brasco has already done all the hard work of establishing the project for you.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Fiend on March 30, 2021, 07:27:20 pm
Like I said, nowadays I think it's mostly either a subset of "influencer" (or "competitive athlete"). Hence why some 9a+ climbers get the odd free shoe and some 8c+ climbers are full-time pro.

...

Have you seen SBC's insta following? ;) Don't take it from me, take it from Jorg. Bear in mind that restrictions are temporary too.
Entertaining discussion from you and the rest of the Derbyshire Times Comments Section massive. It's a fair point about the lying spin, but then again surely that has to be the party line.

More pertinently though, it's probably a good thing that he's erring to being a pro-climber based on doing world class routes and getting meritocratic attention, rather than a vacuous influencer meekly obeying the rules whilst getting acclaim for fucking Lattice interviews or clickbait videos about The SICKEST INSANE Lockdown Training Project etc etc  :sick: :sick:
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on March 30, 2021, 07:55:04 pm
More pertinently though, it's probably a good thing that he's erring to being a pro-climber based on doing world class routes and getting meritocratic attention

The hardest tick of them all
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: cowboyhat on April 01, 2021, 10:29:00 am
AFAIK Buster is still out there; I'm sure my dad has got some SCAB placards left over from Orgreave if you want to meet him at the airport?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: shark on April 01, 2021, 10:56:35 am
Probably back now unless he managed to extend his visa
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: cowboyhat on April 01, 2021, 11:24:06 am
Probably back now unless he managed to extend his visa

Apply for residency, then you can stay while it's being processed.

All the cyclists in Girona have done this.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: TobyD on April 01, 2021, 12:00:22 pm
Bouldering wise Aidan Roberts in Rocklands was certainly not shit.
and then there's his campaign in the Lakes.... Superpowers, Outliers, the problems at Kentmere and Coppermines.

I didn't realise that devolution had reached the stage where the Lakes counted as bouldering abroad. Is it going to rejoin the EU as well?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on April 05, 2021, 07:03:27 pm
Little vid of the 9b FA, Furia de Jabali.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChKphgnQXGI
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on April 05, 2021, 07:22:56 pm
Definitely easier to be a pro for the 80's and 90's guys. Based on merit it'd need to be 8b+ onsight and 9b redpoint at least these days, obviously there's the social media route but that's totally immoral.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: webbo on April 05, 2021, 08:00:06 pm
Definitely easier to be a pro for the 80's and 90's guys. Based on merit it'd need to be 8b+ onsight and 9b redpoint at least these days, obviously there's the social media route but that's totally immoral.
Name more than five 80’s or 90’s pro’s who got paid just for climbing.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Fiend on April 05, 2021, 08:10:42 pm
Little vid of the 9b FA, Furia de Jabali.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChKphgnQXGI
Nice. Bringing Rubicon-size nasties to the area.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on April 07, 2021, 06:15:57 am
Nice. Bringing Rubicon-size nasties to the area.

Britain's finest export.

Tom did a little interview with Will about his trip:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUli1QQWZmU
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on April 07, 2021, 08:59:21 am
it'd need to be 8b+ onsight and 9b redpoint at least these days, .

Funny to see 8b+ os and 9b rp mentioned in the same post. People must suck at onsighting! I guess it's not very "in vogue" nowadays, despite ondras best efforts
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: jwi on April 07, 2021, 10:12:17 am
Indeed!
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Fiend on April 07, 2021, 12:41:19 pm
I'm sure the os-rp disparity used to be regarded as 2 letter grades i.e. 8c-9b which is not far off the above. Or 9a-9c at the very top.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on April 07, 2021, 01:17:17 pm
Yeah I guess so.

3-4 grades seems about right (e.g. 8b+ os and 9a/9a+ RP). Fits roughly with both personal experience and top-end all-rounders Ondra (4), Megos (3), Magnus (3?), with the odd outlier e.g. Patxi (2?). So 5 is only a "bit" specialist

...but...
Back when 8b+ first got onsighted there were only a couple of 9as in the world, and lots more people have onsighted b+ than climbed 9b. I don't think I'd have remarked on 8c/9b comparison - not many have o/s 8c - even if it's only 1 grade off. "Feels" very different in some way to me though, in a vague "level of eliteness" kind of way. I've belayed/watched multiple 8b+ onsights but never seen anyone do 9b (or even get close). Perhaps it just expresses my prejudices for onsighting/flashing, or that fact that my formative years in climbing were spent looking up to Patxi/Ramon/Yuji who are actually maybe disproportionately good at onsight and flash.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Duma on April 07, 2021, 06:29:37 pm
Has megos OS 9a+?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on April 07, 2021, 07:19:45 pm
Has megos OS 9a+?

No, 9a is still the max, Megos is on 2 and Ondra 3. Ondra's also flashed a 9a+.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: remus on April 07, 2021, 07:20:43 pm
Footage of King Capella, the 9b+.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXcedGd3R78
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Fiend on April 07, 2021, 07:34:42 pm
Would that be better named as Capella Indirect Start??
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Duma on April 07, 2021, 07:55:21 pm
Has megos OS 9a+?

No, 9a is still the max, Megos is on 2 and Ondra 3. Ondra's also flashed a 9a+.

So Megos is 4(RP - OS grade diff), same as Ondra then.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Felix14 on April 08, 2021, 09:47:48 am
Does that make mutation 9c?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 08, 2021, 10:07:22 am
Would that be better named as Capella Indirect Start??
A Capella, surely?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Yossarian on April 08, 2021, 10:27:52 am
Would that be better named as Capella Indirect Start??
A Capella, surely?

Paella Salmonella
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: tomtom on April 08, 2021, 10:29:03 am
Would that be better named as Capella Indirect Start??
A Capella, surely?

👏👏

Flat Capella.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Wellsy on April 08, 2021, 01:19:38 pm
Emiliano Capella?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: abarro81 on April 08, 2021, 03:34:19 pm
Has megos OS 9a+?

No, 9a is still the max, Megos is on 2 and Ondra 3. Ondra's also flashed a 9a+.

So Megos is 4(RP - OS grade diff), same as Ondra then.
Ah yeah, forgot he'd done 9c!

A Capella, surely?
Ha, that would've been great. I thought I read that this route actually doesn't have anything to do with La Capella (apart from being at the same sector) and links into something else?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Danny on April 08, 2021, 05:37:17 pm
Footage of King Capella, the 9b+.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXcedGd3R78

I love the phone in a shoe while climbing 9b+ vibes. Especially contrasting Ondra's full film crew while not climbing 9b+ vibes.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Danny on April 16, 2021, 06:30:08 pm
Feels like we might be needing a Bosi-wad thread.

http://youtu.be/RXCkOr0curU (http://youtu.be/RXCkOr0curU)

Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Wellsy on April 16, 2021, 07:23:09 pm
Never quite sure if seeing ultrawads like that really inspires me or makes me want to eat cake, you know like just fucking stuff my face and lie on the sofa and quietly expire
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Fiend on April 17, 2021, 09:13:47 am
Well that's the beauty of climbing innit, it's all a personal relative challenge, pushing yourself (if you want to) at your own level. You pushing to, say, 7A+, could be just as personally exciting as Bosibeast pushing to F9b+... It's all the same procedure - inspiration, focus, effort...
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on April 17, 2021, 07:08:33 pm
Plus someone pushing to 7a+ could actually be a greater physical and mental achievement relative to their genetics and training history
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 17, 2021, 07:18:59 pm
Never quite sure if seeing ultrawads like that really inspires me or makes me want to eat cake, you know like just fucking stuff my face and lie on the sofa and quietly expire

I went out with a top team from Sheff back in the day. We had an informal competition and I won! Fatboy, Picalli, DT, Jason and Gresh was there too I think. They didn't stand a chance once I hit my groove.






It was an eating competition.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Ged on April 17, 2021, 07:39:38 pm
Plus someone pushing to 7a+ could actually be a greater physical and mental achievement relative to their genetics and training history

I find that pretty hard to believe. I don't think many people would get stuck at 7a+ if they put in the sustained work and dedication that bosi has put in over the years.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on April 17, 2021, 08:01:59 pm
What if yer Maw showed up at Malham and onsighted free and even easier having never climbed. Or if a 20 stone man redpointed 7a+
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: petejh on April 17, 2021, 08:11:49 pm
Something that hasn't ever happened nor, we can say with high likelihood, ever will happen - o/s of F&EE by someone who had literally never climbed before stepping on (presumably tied-in by someone competent..). Versus something that has happened - person who is a climber applying themselves and climbing 9b+. Not a good analogy to make your point but I get where you're coming from. #MyDawnWall etc...
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on April 17, 2021, 08:32:20 pm
It's always great to have your input Pete, how many thousand posts?What do guys like yourself get out of doing it?
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: petejh on April 17, 2021, 08:53:03 pm
Sorry.. :shrug:  just having a chuckle.

Not sure what a guy like myself is.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Whatthedickens on April 17, 2021, 08:57:25 pm
Someone who needs to be heard?I feel you
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Ged on April 17, 2021, 10:11:43 pm
What if yer Maw showed up at Malham and onsighted free and even easier having never climbed. Or if a 20 stone man redpointed 7a+

It's not really the individual ascent that impresses me, it's everything that's gone into it. My mum could do a marathon,slowly. But personally I wouldn't find it as much of an impressive athletic achievement because she hasn't spent years and years dedicating herself to the pursuit of perfection like kipchoge has. It's knowing I'm watching the culmination of a huge amount of effort and dedication that does it for me.
Title: Re: Will Bosi has done La Capella, 9b.
Post by: Wellsy on April 18, 2021, 06:10:26 pm
Plus someone pushing to 7a+ could actually be a greater physical and mental achievement relative to their genetics and training history

I find that pretty hard to believe. I don't think many people would get stuck at 7a+ if they put in the sustained work and dedication that bosi has put in over the years.

You don't know how shit I am at climbing! If I got stuck at 7A I'd be happy :D

Nah it does give me psyche. But I have plenty of psyche. 18 months into climbing and it's not gone down yet, and watching strong climbers try really hard makes me want to try really hard. I think that ultimately that is the inspiring thing, less the training regimen and the grades, and more that you can just watch someone throw effort into what they are doing and thinking if I just really grit my teeth... I can climb hard too.
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