UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: r-man on July 05, 2007, 02:26:11 pm
-
Influx - 7c+
Polish Dave did this on Sunday. It's a boulder problem direct start to Seraphim. Dave's sequence: Sitstart on lh pocket/edge and rh staminaband undercut. Pull up to lh small crimp and go again to lh sidepull/pinch. Throw for flat edge on Seraphim. Match to finish.
There may be different sequences, but they are all hard. James had a brief play and said it felt at least 7c+. Dave could reach the pinch from staminaband footholds, but shorter people will have to use poorer footholds.
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/influx%201.jpg)(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/influx%202.jpg)
-
More of an eliminate than a direct start, as Seraphim uses all of those holds, but with a couple extra to the right as well.
-
Hmm, doesn't feel very eliminate. We didn't try going out right to Wild in Me holds, but I'm not sure you could. Also, I don't think you use the small lh crimp for Seraphim do you? There was no chalk on it. :-\
-
Wouldn't the easiest way be to do the sitter to Wild In Me sitter (start at the right hand end of the Staminaband undercuts), right hand up to good finger flatty (the one you use on Stamband), left hand to Seraphim pinches, onwards? Not been to the Tor for a while, so maybe not? If so, this is an eliminate. Looks good though.
-
Wouldn't the easiest way be to do the sitter to Wild In Me sitter (start at the right hand end of the Staminaband undercuts), right hand up to good finger flatty (the one you use on Stamband), left hand to Seraphim pinches, onwards? Not been to the Tor for a while, so maybe not? If so, this is an eliminate. Looks good though.
This is exactly how you do Seraphim (but no sitter). Start left hand on the Staminaband undercuts, right on the Staminaband flatty, bump right onto smaller flatty above, left onto diagonal crimp out left, bump left to top pinch, heel on Staminaband start hold, cartwheel over with right hand to the incut flat crimp that this new problem finishes on. Try it, it's a good problem in it's own right. In fact, I did try starting to the left, but for me it made the first move into a jump back right off the diagonal crimp, to catch the Staminaband hold, which was pointless as you can reach it from the ground. It's a shame really, a truly independant start would have been nicer.
-
Briefly tried this yesterday and it's actually quite good - it feels quite independant due to the low start position. Worth doing.
-
Briefly tried this yesterday and it's actually quite good - it feels quite independant due to the low start position. Worth doing.
Agreed, had a play after you had left. Cool powerful moves. Good problem and suprisingly independent.