UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Muenchener on April 18, 2019, 03:31:18 pm
-
Oh shit.
Austrian press: https://mobil.derstandard.at/2000101685967/Extrembergsteiger-Lama-angeblich-in-Kanada-von-Lawine-verschuettet https://www.tt.com/panorama/unfall/15558654/lawinendrama-bangen-um-tiroler-kletter-stars-lama-und-auer
Tirols Ausnahmealpinist David Lama und der Ötztaler Free-Climber Hansjörg Auer sind am Mittwoch in Kanada von einer Lawine verschüttet worden. Nach ersten Rettungsflügen konnte keiner der Vermissten geortet werden.
Tyrol's star alpinist David Lama and free climber Hansjörg Auer from Ötztal were caught in an avalanche on Wednesday. The first rescue flights failed to locate the missing climbers.
-
Shit.
-
oh no.
-
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/david-lama-hansjorg-auer-missing-in-canada.html
-
Not sounding good. shit.
-
That is really not good.
-
Bugger.
-
I don’t know about official confirmation but this is sad.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BwcI__CgjXF/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=13jclgv99fwba
-
Confirmed in Guardian newspaper: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2019/apr/22/canada-avalanche-bodies-of-three-renowned-mountaineers-found (https://www.theguardian.com/world/2019/apr/22/canada-avalanche-bodies-of-three-renowned-mountaineers-found)
-
I bumped into this earlier today. The stuff nightmares are made of.
https://fb.watch/a2VOuWVx6g/ (https://fb.watch/a2VOuWVx6g/)
Edit: didn't want to open a new topic and didn't know where to post it. I think it's quite a strong document of who he was, what he was made of and what he did out there.
Mods feel free to delete/move if inappropriate.
-
I bumped into this earlier today. The stuff nightmares are made of.
https://fb.watch/a2VOuWVx6g/ (https://fb.watch/a2VOuWVx6g/)
Edit: didn't want to open a new topic and didn't know where to post it. I think it's quite a strong document of who he was, what he was made of and what he did out there.
Mods feel free to delete/move if inappropriate.
:o
Indeed!
That said, after first impressions, if it was that dodgy, and the only option, you'd think he'd have buried his blades in the turf too.
Also difficult to see the actual placement. It may be thin, but if the spike is at all incut at that point, then under load, it shouldn't budge. I remember retreating off Yellow Walls at Gogarth from a half in Rock #1 stopper. Similar sort of scenario.
I was talking with a friend of mine many years ago, about the merits of using flat webbing/slings on marginal spikes. He'd fallen nearly the full height of Idwall Slabs after his rope had "rolled" off the abseil anchor. The rope became knotted, and jammed in a crack before he hit the deck.
Re the above, it's unfortunately very sadly the case, that an affinity with "success" in difficult/dangerous situations, makes a tragic outcome all the more likely.
-
I bumped into this earlier today. The stuff nightmares are made of.
https://fb.watch/a2VOuWVx6g/ (https://fb.watch/a2VOuWVx6g/)
Edit: didn't want to open a new topic and didn't know where to post it. I think it's quite a strong document of who he was, what he was made of and what he did out there.
Mods feel free to delete/move if inappropriate.
:o
Indeed!
That said, after first impressions, if it was that dodgy, and the only option, you'd think he'd have buried his blades in the turf too.
Also difficult to see the actual placement. It may be thin, but if the spike is at all incut at that point, then under load, it shouldn't budge. I remember retreating off Yellow Walls at Gogarth from a half in Rock #1 stopper. Similar sort of scenario.
I was talking with a friend of mine many years ago, about the merits of using flat webbing/slings on marginal spikes. He'd fallen nearly the full height of Idwall Slabs after his rope had "rolled" off the abseil anchor. The rope became knotted, and jammed in a crack before he hit the deck.
Re the above, it's unfortunately very sadly the case, that an affinity with "success" in difficult/dangerous situations, makes a tragic outcome all the more likely.
Seems like he's only carrying a short length of rope and needs the tools in order to continue climbing once he's back on route.
HJ's solo of the Fish is one of the most horrifying prospects I've ever heard about in climbing. People make a big deal out of Honnold and I certainly find his achievements incredible, but he puts in a level of a preparation and attention to detail which makes sense to me. I can totally appreciate how it would be very possible to prepare adequately for a big solo and then get it done safely provided you have a suitable margin - I'm sure many of us have done this on a smaller scale on grit headpoints or similar - applying this to the multipitch stage must certainly take more work but also seems reasonable with enough time and mental preparation (actually wanting to do it is something else altogether!!).
However with Hansjorg on the Fish it seems he pretty much abseiled to have a quick look at the key pitches and then just banged it out. I've still not tried this route because I have so much respect for it (heard multiple horror stories of the difficulties) but apparently the climbing is highly technical and off balance where you can simply just pop off. The idea of setting off up that kind of terrain with minimal preparation horrifies me.
-
As much as I agree with the sentiment of Auer/Fish vs Honnold/Freerider (hype vs actual ability) I think Auer did work the crux section. Too rushed today to find the article...
-
Re. the video, at some point in the first seconds it shows the hand placing the rope, then the rope simply coming off. He then presses it between the rock and the jammed stone, and then finally loads it before abseiling.
And yes, he didn't bury the axes because he simply rappeled to be back on the route and then finished the solo...
Re. the Fish, he had done it once a few days years before. IIRC the previous day, rather than practicing the crux, he practiced the crux for a few hours and he just rappeled to check for seepage and to leave left a windproof jacket and a bottle of water in a small niche.
A 7b+ cruxy pitch on a vertical face with no cracks whatsoever is probably the most horrifying thing you can think about soloing, in my opinion. I don't think there's a single incut edge on the entire pitch, just sloper after sloper after sloper.
And he even rappeled and did it again for the pictures a few days after!!! I remember the article, the journalist said he was terrified and was prepared to watch him fall.
Madness.
https://vimeo.com/8096347 (https://vimeo.com/8096347)
-
Spot on Nibs.
Planetmoutain have a good write up of the ascent if anyone wants the detail https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hansjarg-auer-free-solo-attraverso-il-pesce-in-marmolada.html
-
Fascinating read. He comes across entirely genuine, almost like it is just natural. On one level obviously insane but also consistent within himself. I wonder how his life would have panned out if her hadn't found climbing.
-
Re. the video, at some point in the first seconds it shows the hand placing the rope, then the rope simply coming off. He then presses it between the rock and the jammed stone, and then finally loads it before abseiling.
And yes, he didn't bury the axes because he simply rappeled to be back on the route and then finished the solo...
Re. the Fish, he had done it once a few days years before. IIRC the previous day, rather than practicing the crux, he practiced the crux for a few hours and he just rappeled to check for seepage and to leave left a windproof jacket and a bottle of water in a small niche.
A 7b+ cruxy pitch on a vertical face with no cracks whatsoever is probably the most horrifying thing you can think about soloing, in my opinion. I don't think there's a single incut edge on the entire pitch, just sloper after sloper after sloper.
And he even rappeled and did it again for the pictures a few days after!!! I remember the article, the journalist said he was terrified and was prepared to watch him fall.
Madness.
https://vimeo.com/8096347 (https://vimeo.com/8096347)
Great video Nibs, not seen that before.
I remember hearing him on the enormocast years ago when I was in Font one time and listening to him acknowledge pretty candidly that the risks he took could very well cause his demise is illuminating.
His clear ability to control the fear is next level stuff, what a tragedy it was an objective danger that killed him.
Worth a listen:
https://378.137.myftpupload.com/?p=2736