UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Bonjoy on November 22, 2004, 12:05:34 pm
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Years come and years go and I still keep failing on the jump to the break on West Side Story. Likewise with Deliverance. It must be something about jumping off poor smears whilst laying off a RH sidepull, that my brain just won't accept.
What be your ultimate Nemeseeees then?
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Nemesii, surely??
Mine: Climbing routes with confidence and normal, uninhibited mind.
Everything else pales into extreme insignificance compared to that. And if one has to say a specific line as an answer, well, that makes every low-mid extreme route I haven't done a nemesis (potentially).
Boulder problem-wise, ah, ummm, getting remotely feasible conditions on Sulky Little Boys. Next time, I'm going at night.
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Nemeses according to spell check on Word, for what that's worth.
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Piss at Higgar, can i do it? Can i fuk
Buckstone dyno......ditto
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Was at the plantation on saturday and was reliably informed by the bush telegraph that you had finally just succeeded on WSS. So was that bollox then? I'll have to give you the masterclass sometime... :P
Seriously though, I've got some good beta on a left foothold that has helped others nail that last move... what's it worth??
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i think i might be partly responsible for the lovejoy-WSS rumour, still not sure if it was true or not. I still swear that birkby came off the phone and said you'd done it. question!
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Yeah, that was bollox. The Champagne is still on ice.
Ultimate technical mastery is my aim this winter (codfinger has put paid to my power ambitions - 'if you can't be strong, be good') so the masterclass is probably in order. Do you take payment in Royal Jelly?
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Ahh the Birkby is to blame eh?! Seeing as he's sat opposite me at work these days I can deal with him right away.
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sorry about the rumourmongering then :oops: i swear he said you'd done it!
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Ahh the Birkby is to blame eh?! Seeing as he's sat opposite me at work these days I can deal with him right away.
word, and find out how he got on with ulysees or bust anall. :shock:
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Still haven't done Demon Wall Roof, but I've given up trying knowing its not a lack of strength its just lack of any discernable talent.
And then there's Si's Arete, and then there's the V7 on the front of the virgin, then there's Patta's Arete, and thats just bloody almscliff.
Then if we move on there's everything above 5c at Earl.
Christ I'm shit.
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Years come and years go and I still keep failing on the jump to the break on West Side Story. Likewise with Deliverance. It must be something about jumping off poor smears whilst laying off a RH sidepull, that my brain just won't accept.
What be your ultimate Nemeseeees then?
i've got a lot of things i've tried a fair bit but not yet done (i.e. brad pit, blind fig etc) but nothing that feels like nemesis material yet, they feel like they'll deffo go just a matter of time.
i suppose the only thing that comes close is T-crack, cos i always piss the bottom then fall off the top, split a tip etc, but probably not tried it for a year or so.
aerodynamite WAS my nemises, but it recently got capped like a bad tooth. :8) :guns:
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Piss at Higgar, can i do it? Can i fuk
Buckstone dyno......ditto
I feelin that vibe an'all plus a long list of other probs that I can nearly do.
(underpants, blind date, wss, blockbuster etc....)
Currently been on bad form for last few weeks so
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Hanging Arete, Earl. Probably tried it nearly everytime I've been for the last year and a half. In that time I've managed to pull myself up a lot of other problems that get a harder grade than V4, but I still can't do the thing. I've stopped trying now because it pisses me off so much.
I've had a few nemises, but I seem to have got through them all this summer. Out Of Sight at Bridestones was a problem that I tried everytime I went for probably 15 visits before dragging myself up it.
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Powerband at the Tor. Despite being able to do all of Powerband and climb to the match on PUTP I cannot do the last move on the link. Not for love or money (or royal jelly).
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WSS is definitely up there. Got new sequence last year which makes the start piss but still failing on the top, though its a miracle Ive managed to get that high. And dont even get me started on Blind Date - can I do the move to the break? Can I fuck. Ive given it a good tickle tho.
With an impending move to Oz theres not much time left
javascript:emoticon(':x')
Mad
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I found that the hard bit of WSS was ignoring all people walking along and giving me beta on their way that makes it 5c.
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With an impending move to Oz theres not much time left
I've heard that with proper beta, the move to Oz is only 5c as well. :wink:
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Its more like Fb8b with a cheeky toe hook that only the locals know. Been 11 months now and still no visa. Shite doesnt even begin to explain it
:cuss:
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I found the hard bit was not being put off by the sound of stu little's teeth grinding together when he saw me miss out his first 15 moves. :up: :wink:
the best thing on WSS is that theres a different sequence for everyone, its just takes time to work out what yours is.
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Black 22 at Elephant despite climbing things with bigger numbers and getting the good hold out left I'm to tall enough / flexible enough to do the next (easy move) and yes I know about the heel / toe on the right.
Others include deliverance (given up I'm just too short and shit) Demon Wall Roof and a cast of 1000's
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Font, spiritual home of the nemesis!
#1: Angle Parfait. Every visit I try and every visit I get nowhere.
#2: Angle Jean-Luc at Sabots. 6b+? Solid 7b+ for sure!
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Whilst in Leeds it was always pebble wall, what an arse, think i tried every sequence known to man, rubbish. Now its probably the nose at burbage, can i top it out, answer- no!
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That's very new age of you Dave. And I suppose there's no such thing as strangers, only friends you haven't met? (insert smiling annoying yellow thing here.)
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word to that brother.
boulder problems are human beings too.
chipping is murder.
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Whilst in Leeds it was always pebble wall!
that's the monkey on my back - I know what to do, and I'm pretty sure I'm capable of it... but I just can't get it to go. Think it's a mental problem - knacked my hip falling from it a while ago and have since had trouble commiting to the final stand-up. Helpful types telling me about the "spiral leg fractures" they've witnessed on the problem doesn't really help either! Postponing further attempts for until I can get a spotter and more than one mat.
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word to that brother.
boulder problems are human beings too.
chipping is murder.
So what's fist jamming then?
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GBH!
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pr0n
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The Fin at Gibb Tor, bailed from the top once and thought "that'll go next time". Will it Bollocks! I've climbed harder than its supposed grade of V5 and no matter how many goes i have i can't touch it. Definately some sort psychological block.......... or maybe witchcraft :evil:
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I blame a gypsy curse... placed on me as a youngster when I refused to buy some pegs .... strange that it took so long to take its shape. Does the Gresham run any workshops on nullifying malign super-natural influences? (2 days, £600, sacrificial beasts not included) ?
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For me, my nemesis of about fifteen years was El Poussah at Isatis in Font which I finally did a couple of years ago, but my God I had a torrid time dispatching that one. What was even worse was that everybody assumed it would suit me down to the ground having grim slopers (or Percy Jugs as Mr Overfield describes all slopey holds) and some very camp footwork for the weak! I managed to do pretty much all the other sevens at Isatis in between attempts over the 15 years mind, so its not all bad......
However, I don't think I have ever struggled so hard to do one particular problem - especially a 6c+! Having climbed a few eights taking no more than a day or two max for each, it just proves that the grades a meaningless.
My British nemesis is still Great White at Curbar - the sharks tooth block underneath has biten my arse several times now after I've failed to hold the break and fallen on to it. The last time it pretty much 'smashed my back-doors in' as the Moffatt would say :oops:
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Thought I didnt have any... then someone mentioned powerband... bollocks. How many times do you fail on the last move before you take your ball home?
...Oh and deliverance. 2" short on the jump 8 years ago, 2" short today. And about 3" short on the short mans beta - how does that work?
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don't talk to me about el poussah. i can't hold the holds, at all!!! wtf is all that about.
in good ole blighty, i am constantly amazed at how many probs i've still not done. i keep fallin off the last move of anything n saying it's definately on next go. having said that i cannot touch the classics like piss, west side n deliverence :cry:
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Bastardwell bastard new jerusalem bastard. I am now convinced that no-one over 6 ft can do the proper start. Can I get off the ground, can i bollocks. I make a point of avoiding going anywhere near it now.
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There was me thinkin I didn't really have any, but I guess the big one is staring me in the face. That big arete at the plantation - three years since I started properly trying it, two years since getting to the last move.
Keep doin the yoga I guess eh, dense?:wink:
Before that Blockbuster at caley. I had to move to leeds in the end. Good when you finally do 'em tho - I must have hung off the top jug fior a good ten minutes just milking it :)
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Brad Pit.
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Good when you finally do 'em tho - I must have hung off the top jug fior a good ten minutes just milking it :)
I was like that with Pebble Wall at Almscliff; tried it on and off for about 2 years, using assorted crap sequences. Finally did it, and could do it every time for about a year.
Cant get anywhere on it now though. :cry:
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Is anyone else getting a peverse ego boost from being able to lap other peoples nemesi?
Just me then :roll:
I'd better include Brad Pit, as I could do it, and now I can't, despite being 10 times more flexible. Bizarre. After that it would probably be the ace, or sweet thing, given that I'm currently exactly one inch short of doing either, and have been for about 90 years.
p.s Is everyone trying a different el poussah to me?
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Sweet thing and Brad Pit are piss. Who the f*ck are you? :wink:
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Sweet thing is like the ace - a piss start with a stupid, fucking, gay-ass, pointless, discriminating, reachy, piece-of-shit, arse-bandit last move.
Sorry. Caught me on a bad day.
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I know. It's all very well tall climbers like Katz doing it....
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Sweet thing is like the ace - a piss start with a stupid, fucking, gay-ass, pointless, discriminating, reachy, piece-of-shit, arse-bandit last move.
reachy?
(http://www.beardownproductions.co.uk/gallery/coefield2/katzsweetthing1.jpg)
just bustin your balls son.
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Ho fucking Ho. Katz has longer arms. Or a longer dick, or something like that anyway.
:(
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Don't think it's just a reach either. Making the distance is easy - it's making the thing stick that's the hard bit.
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Ok so I do believe in the odd nemesis, however, the camera never lies BonJoy!
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10102/normal_JonWSS.jpg)
My video shows you static at this point for 1.25 seconds!
May I suggest a higher left foothold and a comfy old set of shoes to exorcise that demon!
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are we on about the arms there?
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Jeez not still usin that old foothold?
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may i suggest a higher right foothold, and take the left foot off!
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Tried all manner of footholds, my hunch is that Uptown is right. The future is the chickenhead.
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the future is a higher left foothold. or fire. when will someone invent fire...?
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That chickenhead is no use to man nor beast. Both your feet should be higher.
Perhaps half-decent boots would help?
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(http://img119.exs.cx/img119/4393/headsmack.gif)
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Those bunnies have rhythm.
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Bring back the kitten/ bees shit I say
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maybe this will help poor bonjoy deal with all the helpful beta...
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Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzb
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I've used the chickenhead every time I've done it. Nothing wrong with it.
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strawberries @ curbar. 2 years later and still no closer.....
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Strawberies is piss, method, both hands in lower crack right hand higner with thub down. Outside edge of the right on the good hold and left foot straight onto the good hold on the 'break', stand up, grab crack other foot up jug top. 5b
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That's an odd method for strawberries...or is it? hmm...I really can't remember anymore (is there a right facing layback method?), but anyway I think it's one of those problems where once you've figured it out it feels easy, but until then it feels depserate. To illustrate my point, I saw a short Italian guy do Play Hard, with ease (and without the cheating crack) and then fall of Strawberries. He got it soon after, but still...
-what was that guys name anyway? I met him a few times last winter - think he was living in Sheffield for a few months.
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Strawberies is piss, method, both hands in lower crack right hand higner with thub down. Outside edge of the right on the good hold and left foot straight onto the good hold on the 'break', stand up, grab crack other foot up jug top. 5b
yeah, nice one. that clearly ties in with the fact that everyone i've ever seen who's limit is 6a consistently failing on it then. You're not after a medal are you soldier?
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The last six or seven feet of the main traverse on Pisa wall at Pex....
Have been trying it independantly as a problem for about 12 months now, still no joy.
Can't imagine what it will feel like, pumped out of my mind after doing the rest of the traverse :crazy:
Also watching AndyF do the full traverse, three times (there and back and there) non stop is somewhat depressing :cry:
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Toit de Cul de Chien. For me needs a funny mix of still being strong on the pocket early on, and having your hip warmed up/stretched enough to cam the heel in properly. And it being dry helps.
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My ultimate nemesis is Breakaway At Pex. Being a shortie I can't reach the gaston side pull for your left hand without getting my feet up on some crap smears. When I do get it I then find I cant move my feet to jump for the finishing jug. :x with knobs and bells on.
See this photo for details http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=7459
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Strawberies is piss, method, both hands in lower crack right hand higner with thub down. Outside edge of the right on the good hold and left foot straight onto the good hold on the 'break', stand up, grab crack other foot up jug top. 5b
Correct sequence but its top end 6a in my book. can feel realy easy some times tho granted
that clearly ties in with the fact that everyone i've ever seen who's limit is 6a consistently failing on it then.
Yeah, it was painfull watching you on it :lol:
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A l'impossible at roche aux sabots. been on it every trip (except the last, but i had bigger numbers on my mind then :roll: :lol:) an i'm damned if i can do the last move or two (i can't).
next time......
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I think after my recent trip to font i can basically claim font as my nemesis. I think in particular charcuterie sticks out as the main culprit :oops: Peak nemesis is probably deliverance with a bit of basher's problem at the snor thrown in for good measure!
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that clearly ties in with the fact that everyone i've ever seen who's limit is 6a consistently failing on it then.
Yeah, it was painfull watching you on it :lol:
yeah whatever, its on my warmup circuit muthafucka
basher's problem at the snor
don't talk to me about that probem - what fucking gives there? did they print the 6 the wrong way up? question
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Chocolate Wall at Pill Box Wall on the Marine Drive has been kicking my arse for a few years. Trouble is, I keep getting slightly higher, and the move to latch the shield is just pure climbing joy; I just can't leave it alone, it's too good to give up on.
Mind you, haven't tried it this winter with my new lightweight, almost beer-gutless frame.
It'll probably turn out to be piss. (I wish)
(NB Luckily I've seen some reet famous people get spanked on it too!)
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basher's problem at the snor
don't talk to me about that probem - what fucking gives there? did they print the 6 the wrong way up? question
Its a path man! All you need is strong fingers and a high pain threshold. Ask Polish Dave - he camps on the crimp at night.
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I reckon Basher's has gotta be harder than B6 though. Scouse is the only person I know who's done it and he used a well gay super beef thuggery way of doin it! I can do every move on it in isolation I just can't link it all together- any tips? :?
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yeah, stop being mates wi scouse
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I thought you lot were talking v6 - its fair for v6, not B6 (which would be v5). I have switched to font grades recently, but cannot convert below 7a. What does that mean this is then?
Scouse seems allright? :wink:
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it means you only just know what you're talking about. bashers is 7a :D
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Bloody steffan grossman on the langdale boulders. Been to try it about 6 times now, can get my hand over the top but aint managed to stick the final hold.
Also in northumberland, the motherland, one on the main buttress of shaftoe. it starts at the very back of the roof, and comes out via a break and a poor crimp, then goes over a bloody mono at the lip of the slab before turning into a highball top out. it gets 6b/c but feels a lot bloody harder than that to me, then i guess most of do till you get em.
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ive done bashers so it can't be that hard
scouse is like a shark, just avoid him when he's hungry
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it is hard to be hungry when the climbing is so good
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managed to put the nose to bed this evening. its now curled up in ball and snoring peacefully. now just gotta put shit and blind date to bed. damn
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anything in font thats less than vertical regardless of the grade
is sweet thing still possible thought the crimp was smashed?
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I doubt what's left of Sweet Thing is climbable :( .
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I doubt what's left of Sweet Thing is climbable :( .
Left of sweet thing is a grassy gully - this is certainly climbable.
:wink:
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classic in the making
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Early Door's, tried this many, many times.
Rattle and hump was one, now power humps is!
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Crescent Arete would have to be mine.
I have climbed within about 2 feet from the top, but my ever unreliable head told me that downclimbing all the way back down would be the best option at that point. :evil:
On the slightly harder but less scary front I still have not managed the full green traverse despite finding the shorter version alright going. I again failed only a couple of moves before the end. I reckon "it's all in the mind".
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the tops the easy bit?
ticked sickle crack on the sheeps head block at bbg sth this pm. another nemesis bites the dust!
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Ok I sent steffan from the standing thak god, so now I've moved onto the sit start to picnic sarcastic. I can do all the and link all but the last move together. I've been up to the last move out left for the jug about seven times and just fudged it every time or pumped out.
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Crescent Arete would have to be mine.
I have climbed within about 2 feet from the top, but my ever unreliable head told me that downclimbing all the way back down would be the best option at that point. :evil:
On the slightly harder but less scary front I still have not managed the full green traverse despite finding the shorter version alright going. I again failed only a couple of moves before the end. I reckon "it's all in the mind".
question?
you can rinse out the crux of GT but not the pizzazz easy moves at top of CA? Word to the wise - bit of right heel or toe hooking on the arete and it'll be all gravy.
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"I have climbed within about 2 feet from the top, but my ever unreliable head told me that downclimbing all the way back down would be the best option at that point." DScuffle
"I have climbed within about 2 feet from the top, but my ever unreliable head told me that downclimbing all the way back down would be the best option at that point." Rice Boy 2003/4/5/6.......
Keep fingering the top of Deliverance. Will sell my soul for beta on that bugger.
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strawberries still can't quite do - infuriating
had a good year this year and finished off the other old nemesis's :D
need to find me some new ones.
this winter im going for the flash of pockman (slab one not puck ) hope i make it, i've been waiting for the right time for ages!
also - one tried and failed once but when i go to caley again i'd love to get mr smooth done and bobs bastard
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the slot on the sloping top at wimberry - despite having pissed up local hero and getting baxter's wall (the 6a+ version) third go i still couldn't do it. its only V0 (5b) fer fucks sake!
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the slot on the sloping top at wimberry - despite having pissed up local hero and getting baxter's wall (the 6a+ version) third go i still couldn't do it. its only V0 (5b) fer fucks sake!
shit the bed.you've actually gone to a crag outside lancashire.
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the slot on the sloping top at wimberry - despite having pissed up local hero and getting baxter's wall (the 6a+ version) third go i still couldn't do it. its only V0 (5b) fer fucks sake!
shit the bed.you've actually gone to a crag outside lancashire.
yeah wnet to bridestones the weekend before!
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having pissed up local hero
That's really quite unethical.
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On a Wimberry tip and whilst talking about failing (something I am so good at): I must have tried the sitter to Fish Arete something like 7,403,663 times yet still can't manage it. It's the last slap into the stand up that foils me everytime. Even absolute zero conditions last winter and I couldn't do it.
Likewise, the sitter to Incredible Shaking Man at Porth Ysgo. Must have got on that like 200 times and not done it.
(Note to self: don't ever bother with these problems again. Walk away, it's not worth it)
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Which bit on ISM? on't stick it and other people go over to ledge with RH. I went with LH, its easier and you also don't risk falling down the big gap in't rocks if you don't hold it
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Which bit on ISM? on't stick it and other people go over to ledge with RH. I went with LH, its easier and you also don't risk falling down the big gap in't rocks if you don't hold it
I can cruise up the first couple of moves but then get stuck just before the big move to the ledge. Just can't bring my left foot round from where it started. Going left sounds a good idea, I'll try it next time as I seem to remember that I've always gone right first. Thanks.
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I presume you do the real mans start as opposed to the gypo start. I do gypo start so LF is there, then when get sidepull, match feet, take left off and flag, get RH hold (balancy + subtleness required) swap back feet and throw with LH to ledge
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Managed a few of my nemeses this summer - Demon Wall Roof and Dreamland at Almscliff, Ripper Traverse at Caley (the crux was deciding to attempt it spotterless), Cave RHS at Bowden etc.
This winters projects are the standing version of Pinky at Brimham (got to the top-out ages ago but bottled it and since seem to have lost ability to use the mono), Red Baron at Shipley (have repeatedly got RF on and then matched the arete but can't do owt with LF and very slowly barn-door off (pop for the top I think , rather than try to static it), and Horror Arete (take spare matt!) ... but the main one is Hitchhiker's at Kyloe - the number of times I've crossed my RH through for that flake , felt it, but been unable to curl my fingers around in time... arrgggghhhhhhhhhhhhh!
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Ripper Traverse at Caley
did that other week. very good/green isn't it.
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probably my favourite "moves" this year - nice technical traverse with a curious-feeling teeter into the groove, lovely. I'd walked past it for years and not even touched it; but, recently, at the end of a long days boulder, decided to give it a quick "feel". The plan was to maybe work out the traverse and come back another day with an extra mat. 10 minutes later I was standing in the lichenous groove, at a loss as to how to reach the top, weighing up whether to leap off sideways and try to hit my mat (handily protecting the traverse!). Used up an entire chalk-bag contemplating my fate in the near-dark before deciding to smear my way to safety (and that top-out isn't as positive at it looks from below isn't it?)..... happy days!
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question?
you can rinse out the crux of GT but not the pizzazz easy moves at top of CA? Word to the wise - bit of right heel or toe hooking on the arete and it'll be all gravy.
It's not the moves that were to hard, more that my head is to soft. The top looked so close, but it meant getting further from the ground which looked so far away. Unrational brain kicks in and before I know it I'm downclimbing back through the crux.
Surely other people have nemesis (nemisii :?: ) which are not physical, more mental.
Or am I the only pussy on UKBouldering :?
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not done it for a while but I'm sure the holds are absolutely massive at the top of CA with some good footholds as well and topping out is less scary than reversing
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There's plenty of things I repeatedly get within a move of doing, but the always bottle it. Spare Rib (Brutal Arete is never going to catch on), Sauvitto and the SW arete of the pebble (on either side), off the top of my head.
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sure i've seen you reverse CA. mental.
Surely other people have nemesis (nemisii :?: ) which are not physical, more mental.
hands up anyone who's happy to traverse off from the pocket on west side story? tag back of hand and drop off on deliverance? match chip on the keel and drop off?
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Downclimbing, in hindsight, was much harder, perhaps I could claim a new problem Crescent Arete reverse (but I haven't done the first few moves so I guess the FA is still waiting :lol: ).
Spare Rib - what a line, it looks scary enough from the ground, and I always find lines look bigger (and way more scary) when you get half way up them. Has anyone done the Arete Right of it yet :?:
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Having climbed a few eights taking no more than a day or two max for each.:
Hold on, What 8's were they mate ? same as tony simpson's ?
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On good ol' Aussie rock -I finally did Travis (Obe does this in the Frequent Flyers vid) at Sissy a couple of weeks ago and Detonator will go very soon. Bonjoy will know these I expect.
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Yeah, I remember them both being class.
Do you ever bump into a guy called Matt Kelly out on the Sydney crags? Say hello from me if you do.
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Not counting things I've irretrievably fucked up by failing to onsight them, these are some things I've kept trying (all without pads)...
The Trial, Bowden Doors (have climbed up and down from the crux several times, getting pretty good at that which is scary in itself).
Silly Arete, Tremadog (failed to second when I was a newbie, later retreated on lead due to rain).
Swine, Wilton 2 (up and down to crux several times in one session).
Absent Friends, Cheedale (reversed twice from tricky wall bit, although wasn't trying easier RH version).
Rainy Day Blues, Turning Stone Edge (reversed twice from hideous campus moves over roof).
The Knock, Burbage (attempted and reversed from lower crux a few times)
Finger Distance, Curbar (ditto)
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Absent Friends, Cheedale (reversed twice from tricky wall bit, although wasn't trying easier RH version).
had to rest on that after spending 12 hours knitting the lower wall. not really a nemesis but certainly summink i wanna clear. remember using my 7 quickdraws up pretty quick and extending wires with friends higher up. great route.
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Not counting things I've irretrievably fucked up by failing to onsight them, these are some things I've kept trying (all without pads)...
The Trial, Bowden Doors (have climbed up and down from the crux several times, getting pretty good at that which is scary in itself).
Silly Arete, Tremadog (failed to second when I was a newbie, later retreated on lead due to rain).
Swine, Wilton 2 (up and down to crux several times in one session).
Absent Friends, Cheedale (reversed twice from tricky wall bit, although wasn't trying easier RH version).
Rainy Day Blues, Turning Stone Edge (reversed twice from hideous campus moves over roof).
The Knock, Burbage (attempted and reversed from lower crux a few times)
Finger Distance, Curbar (ditto)
i'm not sure how much a pad would help on absent friends. :wink:
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The Trial is just that,i think most climbers have the same experience, one day when everything is going right it just clicks and you pull through that top bulge, hard won and very satisfying, certainly if it is at the top of your grade anyway.
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Webbo, it would keep your feet out of the usual Chee Dale muck :wink:
Sharkey, well I think The Trial has got a bit easier now it's (rightly) gone up to E3 :wink:
I'll also add:
Slate
Gogarth
(never seem to get it organised to do what I'd like there)
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Yeah, I remember them both being class.
Do you ever bump into a guy called Matt Kelly out on the Sydney crags? Say hello from me if you do.
Yeah, I know Matt. He's a really good guy. I'll say 'Hi' for you. In fact, here he his gurning away at Bungonia.......
(http://www.mitchleblanc.com/images/climbing/035/P7312093.JPG)
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Haha, and there he is. Tell him to get his ass in gear and do a Europe trip. I've been goading him about it for ages.
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My ultimate nemesis is no more. Jerrys Problem, Sheep Pen. I was getting close to this (hitting the slopey rail) before the old guy popped up and cruised it, leaving a V9 in his wake (about 7 years ago I think). Katz and Cattel managed it after this at a more realistic V10. Still no joy for me though (its going on a bit now). So finally, after katz tells me the intermediate crystal collection/pocket has gone shit, and now worthy of V11 (?) I finally haul my fat ass up the thing - fag on top of the boulder? You bet. Thank fuck for that.
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I finally haul my fat ass up the thing - fag on top of the boulder? You bet.
Are you into self homo-abuse or just getting the insults in before someone else does? :lol:
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The wales mafia is pretty close knit :wink:
Funny how nemesii get more feasible when they get upgraded....
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The wales mafia is pretty close knit :wink:
Funny how nemesii get more feasible when they get upgraded....
Well that's the thing about a true nemesis. You know you should really be able to do it, you get soooo close and the grade well within your abilities but for some reason you keep on failing.
King of Drunks was a perfect example for me that finally went with a bit of effort. Now Catelepsy at Pex is getting there. Perfectly within my abilities, can cruise nearly all of it but still I ain't done it despite doing hundreds of harder stuff since I first tried it. Something inside me tells me I will never climb it.
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The wales mafia is pretty close knit :wink:
Funny how nemesii get more feasible when they get upgraded....
Well that's the thing about a true nemesis. You know you should really be able to do it, you get soooo close and the grade well within your abilities but for some reason you keep on failing.
King of Drunks was a perfect example for me that finally went with a bit of effort. Now Catelepsy at Pex is getting there. Perfectly within my abilities, can cruise nearly all of it but still I ain't done it despite doing hundreds of harder stuff since I first tried it. Something inside me tells me I will never climb it.
I feel the same about Breakaway :x :x :x
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Yeah and you're dead close on Breakaway too. It's proper hard though. Plus it's reachy and I know how much you love long reaches Andy! :wink:
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WHAT! I have seen you at the tor, all this time you're harbouring a dark secret. You really have no excuses:
Normal Height
Long Arms
Strong Fingers
Visited the Tor over 500 times...
That is why this thread is called nemesises. I'd get on with it before the guide reprint comes out and ru has given it 7b+
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I'd have thought one attempt on Breakaway would be enough. In fact, I'd have thought attempting Breakaway and not succeeding would not be the sort of thing you've survive to have as a nemesis.
We are talking about the Mick Fowler "triple dagger" Culm Coast horror-show Breakaway, aren't we??
....which leads me in an exciting thematic link onto a further nemesis that could also easily be confused with a sea-cliff death route albeit somewhat tamer:
Conan The Librarian - determined to do this as a route, onsighted the start sans mats but had to retreat off the top soloing as it was damp. Went back with a rope, did the start first go again, shoved in loads of gear, faffed for ages, and gave up. Annoyingly I'm tempted to go back in my committment gets better...
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A biscuit for anyone who can figure out where my last post on this thread is supposed to go...
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on how was it for you?
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Conan The Librarian - determined to do this as a route, onsighted the start sans mats but had to retreat off the top soloing as it was damp. Went back with a rope, did the start first go again, shoved in loads of gear, faffed for ages, and gave up. Annoyingly I'm tempted to go back in my committment gets better...
Conan is well cool. I stupidly did it one weekday morning, on my own and in spooky mist. Felt a lot of adrenaline coursing through my body as I topped out. A very enjoyable outing. Get to it dude.
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Conan The Librarian - determined to do this as a route, onsighted the start sans mats but had to retreat off the top soloing as it was damp. Went back with a rope, did the start first go again, shoved in loads of gear, faffed for ages, and gave up. Annoyingly I'm tempted to go back in my committment gets better...
Conan is well cool. I stupidly did it one weekday morning, on my own and in spooky mist. Felt a lot of adrenaline coursing through my body as I topped out. A very enjoyable outing. Get to it dude.
you'll probably hear an epic account of me on it, dying etc.
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you'll probably hear an epic account of me on it, dying etc.
I hope not and I doubt it. Serious injury maybe, but you'll be unlucky to die on it. :wink: :wink:
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I'd have thought one attempt on Breakaway would be enough. In fact, I'd have thought attempting Breakaway and not succeeding would not be the sort of thing you've survive to have as a nemesis.
We are talking about the Mick Fowler "triple dagger" Culm Coast horror-show Breakaway, aren't we??
No, it's the Phil Davidson horror at Pex. I gat to pretty much the same point every go. Right hand on the stupidly painful crimp, feet on crappy edgy smeary stuff, left up to the rounded gaston flake thingy and then...
Nothing. Not a solitary sausage. I'm stuck. I can't move my feet, I can't generate any power on the crimp, all I achieve is a gravity assisted descent. Again. Bugger. :x
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WHAT! I have seen you at the tor, all this time you're harbouring a dark secret. You really have no excuses:
Normal Height
Long Arms
Strong Fingers
Visited the Tor over 500 times...
That is why this thread is called nemesises. I'd get on with it before the guide reprint comes out and ru has given it 7b+
I think we may just have our wires crossed on this one. The Breakaway I'm on about is at Pex, not the Tor.
'Cos I've only been there 499 times (and I've counted).
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No shit. 1, I don't know you. 2, Pex hill is Guy ritchies revolver in crag form. No biscuits.
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Hung Like A Chimp at Raven Tor (Dartmoor)
apparently it still goes at the same grade even tho half the flake was pulled off by some fat git
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Ripper Traverse at Caley
did that other week. very good/green isn't it.
This was my Warlock for the whole time I lived in Leeds, kept falling off the end of the traverse in pre mat days. Returned after a states trip, feeling strong like Ox and cruised it, to my surprise to the blob in the middle, then had to hang on in there while my spotter went round and removed as much greenness as possible from the top, and spotted the holds for me on the top as I had always assumed the topout would be pice of piss and never looked at it.
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... cruised it, to my surprise to the blob in the middle, then had to hang on in there while my spotter went round and removed as much greenness as possible from the top, and spotted the holds for me on the top as I had always assumed the topout would be pice of piss and never looked at it.
sounds familiar, though without spotters I was reduced to an eternity of considering a sideways leap onto my mat (under the traverse). Eventually flailed my way up the rounded greenness in the near-dark (after using up an entire chalkbag in hand-wringing deliberation). Then got distracted on the way to my car and proceded to bottle topping out Not My Stile three times in a row.
Nemeses-wise: Pinky and Whiskey Galore at Brimham still annoy. But, at the weekend I became convinced that Bowden is Nemeses-central (when not musing over how that block-chalk just feels plain wrong). There's something about that place that I just don't suit, everything at seems plain evil no matter how many times I try: Captain Haddock, Toffs, both Cave Central problems. I just never seem to get any nearer inspite of improving elsewhere (even Kyloe In's starting to succomb).
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sounds familiar, though without spotters I was reduced to an eternity of considering a sideways leap onto my mat (under the traverse). Eventually flailed my way up the rounded greenness in the near-dark (after using up an entire chalkbag in hand-wringing deliberation). Then got distracted on the way to my car and proceded to bottle topping out Not My Stile three times in a row.
Sounds like me the first time I did Permutation Rib at Caley. Onsight soloed (as you do) Angel's and Rabbit's Paw Walls, so set off up Permutation Rib and found myself on the footledge after some struggling with a sequence on the traverse. Looked down at the pointed boulder beneath in the fading light and convinced myself I would at least be able to hobble/crawl to the car if I landed on it. Ended up being nae bother.
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Oh, got another one, Si's arete at t'almsclffe. I know it's only V6/F7a but I just can't on with it. Getting my ass off the ground has been achieved, but after that I'm stumped.
Best wait for cooler conditions so I can stick those slopers.
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Don't really know Almscliff (to my great shame) but that's the little arete up on the main crag near the niche or something?
I remember trying it repeatedly years ago and failing as I usually do. However I did feel tantalisingly close and should go back and do it along with everything else I should do up there!
Maybe we should make Almscliff our next trip out Andy?
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Oh, got another one, Si's arete at t'almsclffe. I know it's only V6/F7a but I just can't on with it. Getting my ass off the ground has been achieved, but after that I'm stumped.
Best wait for cooler conditions so I can stick those slopers.
another of those famously overgraded yorkshire problems. :wink:
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Oh, got another one, Si's arete at t'almsclffe.
I can't even bring myself to try... just looks horrible. Has it ever been managed by anyone over 4 foot tall? It has the "pelvis shattering" look of a problem on the Flapjack at Caley (sit-start to a low groove). It's V5 but I suspect I'll have managed Blockbuster or the Keel at Almscliff before I do either that goove or Si's Arete.
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Don't really know Almscliff (to my great shame) but that's the little arete up on the main crag near the niche or something?
I remember trying it repeatedly years ago and failing as I usually do. However I did feel tantalisingly close and should go back and do it along with everything else I should do up there!
Maybe we should make Almscliff our next trip out Andy?
It's the innocuous little arete at the start of the niche, about 20 yards right of Syretts Roof. I'd be well up for another A(r)lmscliffe visit, but I want to wait for better conditions as it was a tad warm up there on Sunday (18 bloody degrees in October...).
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One can add to the list:
Chequer's Crack, Froggatt. Bloody awful route, tried it at A1 years ago, and recently in a form which involved a shuffle up, lots of pump failing to get gear in quickly, and a shuffle down. Probably won't go back...
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Oh, got another one, Si's arete at t'almsclffe. I know it's only V6/F7a but I just can't on with it. Getting my ass off the ground has been achieved, but after that I'm stumped.
Best wait for cooler conditions so I can stick those slopers.
another of those famously overgraded yorkshire problems. :wink:
It was actually quite a bit harder when I first did it. Subsequently the foothold out left broke leaving a much more helpful hold. As for the grade, I'd say, even in its easier modern form, it is a much trickier proposition than Demon Wall Roof - but then that is clearly overgraded at V7.
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i knew the grading police would be along after i'd made a comment like that. :wink:
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The Edge Problem, Cromlech boulders. Awful, awful thing.
That prow on the low boulder at Carrock. 2 grades harder than the other V5 prows at Carrock.
Probably something in The County.
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I knocked off 2 nemeses this year...
Rocksteady Teddy V5 @ The Fear Factory. 5m slab, crux for me being a one foot stand on a smear with no hands.... Couldn't do it for 2 years..... Every session there would try it. Then once you do that, theres more tough moves higher...
Diplomatic Immunity V4 @ The Frontline. Technical little slopey seam... Again, every session there I try it to no avail. Did it last week 2nd go. Awesome. So glad. Was out there with Webby a month or so ago and he said he always finds it hard. Haha
Other than that.... The DWS project. Nearly 3 years, 50+ sessions, at least 150 failures... All in the crux. Right at the top.
BUT I'M GETTING CLOSER!!
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Monty Pythons ss
Some 14 years after my first visit to Kyloe, finally did it earlier this year :D