UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: fried on November 22, 2015, 03:01:48 pm
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STG - Training....
M - Another hunting day in the forest, all of the 3 pignons was out of bounds and I eventually ended up at Isatis, with no plans which was the plan. Opened my bag to find I'd forgotten my good shoes and only had my indoor resoles, so played on bits I'd never tried before. Climbed O.K and had a lot of fun. Last day of climbing in T-shirt?
Ticked off Exultation de la blanche http://bleau.info/isatis/3034.html which was good fun. Spent too long on a white slab prob http://bleau.info/isatis/3019.html, but just need to figure out the last move.
Lastly did a problem I saw on a vid. It's called Estelle 6C which seems ridiculously over-graded (not in bleau.info), not sure if it's a 'Fun bloc' invention, if any one has a copy to hand.... it's between red 24 and 25....
T - Indoors, O.K and happy not to start aching during the session.
W - F - Nothing, shoulder aches, tried to start my BM sessions, but too sore. Difficult sleeping since I can't sleep on my side.
Sa - Helping someone move appartment, and usual it takes all day and I do all the heavy lifting. Shoulder sore.
S - Tried to do an indoor session, but there was no train, so I went home. Probably for the best, hope shoulder is O.K for tomorrow.
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M: quietly slipped into my forties
T:
W:
T:
F:
S:
S:
Another no training week, but the wee boy is over his cold and chest infection, and I'm almost over mine so hopefully normal sleep and health will resume and I'll be training again.
One trained through illness in years gone by, but really suffered from post-viral fatigue (whether due to training or not I'll never know but I used to train regardless ) so have learned my lesson.
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Happy Birthday Rodma - frustrating week... But often it's best just to rest and then get back on it - it normally comes back faster than you think...
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Happy Birthday Rodma - frustrating week... But often it's best just to rest and then get back on it - it normally comes back faster than you think...
Cheers
Yeah, I'm not too frustrated about the situation, hopefully be back up to full power by the new year
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Good plan, I'm gonna get on it this wk if my car allows
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Happy B-day Rodma -
M: quietly slipped into my forties
:(
Do not go gentle into that good night,
Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
:boxing:
Giving shoulder a break, so minimizing climbing related work
M- Weights - 5/3/1 week 2 day 1 - Bench and squats, Ab roller
T-Weights - 5/3/1 week 2 day 2 - Deadlift and OH Press, wtd Pullups, Ring Planks
W- Rest
T-Weights - 5/3/1 week 2 day 3 - Squats and Bench, Ab Roller
F-Weights - 5/3/1 week 2 day 4 - OH Press and Deadlift
S- Snow Bike, 2 hours in 8inches of Powder. Hard and slow, but fun.
S-Yoga
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STG (2015): 6C on plastic, onsight 6b+ on plastic 2 x 6b os
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Sore abs from yesterday's steep bouldering session, which therefore must have dome something. Good.
Bike to work 25km
T: Wall, Freimann. Nine routes (attempts) up to 6c+
W:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Short session with M jnr, again focusing on a non-fingery cave project, the main challenges of which are body tension and learning to use weird off-piste foot trickery* of which I have little experience. Blob campusing afterwards; didn't feel as strong as on Sunday.
F:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Twelve routes (attempts) up to 6c.
S: Had intended to go hillwaking, but it snowed heavily in the mountains last night and I don't have winter tyres on my car yet. Organisational skills FAIL. Went for a log bike ride (4 hours) in the woods instead.
* weird off-piste foot trickery = anything other than edging, smearing and - at a pinch - backstepping. Today I used my first ever double heelhook pinch.
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Happy birthday Rodma
M - fb max hangs
T - lunch workout: push ups, L-sits, handstands, tuck planche. Afternoon: ring rows, bridges, head stands
W - board climbing pe: 2 circuits x 6 reps with 1' rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - isometric weight training. Finishers: hanging L-sit, squat, plank, ring rows
S - bouldering. Finally some cold in Italy! Went with some friends to try a 7b+ and 7c I had tried last time 6 months ago. Not bad, though conditions were not so good, but I need to relearn some moves
Inviato dal mio Nexus 7 utilizzando Tapatalk
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Congratulations /commiserations rodma.
STG: Rehab. finger. Strength work: fingerboard or bouldering twice a week as finger allows.
MTG: 7a+ OS and 7b RP in Chulilla in the new year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.
M - Shoulder and hip routine. Tired from weekend.
T - Westway: warmed up, still felt tired and tweaky. Unusually for me did the sensible thing and binned it.
W - Shoulders and hips.
T - Shoulders
F
S - Winspit - not the most inspiring of venues but it was lovely. The sky was unfeasibly blue, cool and crisp, but almost t-shirt weather if you were in the sun and out of the wind. Seven routes to 6b+.
S - Shoulders and hips. Easy day.
Tiring week. Three late nights (concerts in Wimbledon and Barbican) and busy at work. Tweaks improving. Feel like I'm moving fairly well with a bit in reserve but still very cautious with the finger. Plan: as before, slowly ramp up the strength work
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M: Deadhangs - 20mm edge
Progressive Set - 10secs (No weight), 10 secs (No weight), 10 secs (2.5kg)
Main Set - 4 x 10 secs (5kg)
T: Rest
W: Local wall - 20 mins aerocap.
1 hour on the 45' board, managed a project and tried another I can do the individual moves on.
Attempted 4x4's and completely sandbagged myself and didn't realise it was only supposed to be 16 problems and ended up doing 64 problems... so a 4x4x4... Punter.
V1, V1, V2, V1 (2mins rest) x 4
Rest 2 mins
V1, V1, V2, V1 (2mins rest) x 4
Rest 2 mins
V1, V1, V2, V1 (2mins rest) x 4
Rest 2 mins
V1, V1, V2, V1 (2mins rest) x 4 (Failed on the last move of the last problem on all 4 reps)
Completely ruined by the end...
T: Panymwyn Night Session - Repeated a 6B+ and 6C+. Trying the moves on Gasoline Stand and Panty's Down both (7A+) find both nails struggling to do the moves in isolation on Panty's.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Curbar - 2nd time on grit felt hard still, did a few 4+ and 5+. Did "Crack 'n Pockets" (6B+) and tried Trackside but couldn't get the top sloper on the arete. Ripped a massive flapper on my tip on the 6B+... Nightmare.
Feeling tired lately, aching like hell and don't feel like I'm recovering between sessions I don't think the 64 problems on Wednesday helped...
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Thanks fried.
10.13-11.2
M. AM Systems board Bouldered for 20 mins then did 1 set of 20/10's = 120 moves. Full set of 20/10s just on incut edges. Eve Popped out to Burbage with lamps but didnt get anywhere on Blind Date undoubtedly due to Tomtom having greased up the holds earlier.
T. Interviewing in Walsall
W. AM systems board. Bouldered for 30 mins then did 1 set of 20/10's = 120 moves. Full set of 20/10s just on incut edges. Eve Peak Area Meet and Quiz
T. Got twitterd by tomtom into going out. Went to CragX and was mint. Pounced on TT as he was having a Ben Moon style power nap. Made good progress on JR getting matched and going for low pinch several times. Realised that trying to drag holds here is usually the wrong choice. 3 hours of attempts. Magic. Eve Quaffing fine wine with Joe Picalli and Seb
F. Interviewing in Walsall. Caught a mild cold off a candidate
S. Noon. Snowy on tops. CragX 2degrees. Still bone dry. Bit glassy compared to thursday. Still getting shut down on JR going for low pinch several times. At end tried going for pinch using the small crimp above intermediate for left hand which may be the way for me. Ben did ok on it too.
S. Taxiing and report writing. Glad Tommy didnt want to go out on the grit as still have a low level cold
Good week. Should do more volume for endurance build up. Neglected the fingerboard as the bouldering I do on the systems board and outside is finger intensive. Alcohol guzzling on increase.
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40s the new 40. Happy birthday
M - went down the wall with Kyle as he had day off school (in service training). They were setting probs on bouldering wall so he wasn't in a good frame of mind due to them using airdrill and making a fuckload of noise. So he was happy to sit in a corner and eat sweets after a few routes an a bit of traversing and I managed to get a few problems done. Didn't warm up well and still feeling tired from Friday night, only got a few done before heading home
T - Some core
W - wall session. Had an OK 3 hours or so, but biceps and elbow were feeling sore by end of session
T - nowt, still sore
F- massage to loosen up elbows and biceps, definitely helped
S - morning swim with Cerys, afternoon walk in snow with Kyle, baltic!
S - morning wall session - did 10 or so routes 6a-6c actually (call it an aerocrap session) felt OK considering it's about 3rd time training on routes this year. ticked two boulder probs I had been trying first try before we left, amazed.
Brachioradialis feeling a bit sore but most likely after effects of massage.
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84Kg
M -
T - School P.M. linked first 28 moves of Pink. Did a 38 move link in middle and last 1/3rd too. 1 x Purple circuit.
W -
T -
F - School lunch. Campus. 1-4-7 x 8 left and right. Double handed 1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6 x 2. Finshed with 1 x Purple circuit.
S -
S - School p.m. 7.7 degrees and 59% humidity. Slow warm up then mainly 50 degree. Did Basic Jez, Woodology and repeated Mr Blobby (7C) first time since last year. Tried Schoolboy and Mrs TB suggested grabbing hold on crux as pinch and not crimp. Major breakthrough.. didn't quite do move but v close. Had a few links from start. Finished with attempts on circuits but tired.
3 session week but 3 high quality sessions... rest is good!
Happy 40th Rodma!
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Happy birthday Rodma!!!
Power Club
Mon - snatch complex x2, ab wheel. Really pleased, managed to do 6 reps of the 10" full stretch pause of the third "set" of the ab wheel!
Tue - rest. Surprisingly not too tired.
Wed - BM max hangs. Still good despite almost eight weeks since last session. Then a mighty Tabata with dumbbell thrusters. Agony.
Thu - FOA session, max foa's and contrast training. Heavy, still a bit tired from the BM session, that was mostly one armed. Dumbbell complex, 2 mins barbell carry. Heavy session. Doms.
Fri - rest. Doms.
Sat - dumbbell complex, power cleans, farmer's walk. Bad choice for the last excercise, forearms in agony again. What have I done on Wednesday?
Sun - barbell complex x2, hill sprints.
Some kind of rest week, not for the activity in itself, but from board climbing. After the last weeks on one single problem I was very happy to finally do it, and needed some specific and mental rest. Plus, I wanted to test the BM hangs. In doing so, I put in one of the heaviest sessions ever, with days and days of forearms Doms and pain. Brilliant. Amazing progress on ring monos.
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Happy Birthday Rodma.
Goals: train then crush
M - all set to train but got tempted out by the weather. Managed to pull off the floor on the Terrace for the first time :great:
T - rest
W - fingerboard & 3x25-30 Aero. Overdid it a bit.
Th - struggled for 30 minutes to get warmed up, saw grey clouds rather than blue skies over the Peak and was happy not to bother.
F - Foundry - 4x4s, ended up doing 6 sets, 25 routes, average about 6b.
SS - nowt
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M: Had a tweet from Nai saying BurbageN was half decent so headed out and joined him at the Terrace. Warmed up on the Terrace :/ managed to get my arse about 15-20 cm off the ground on the first move which I considered a success. Moved on to Remergence where I failed on a warming Blind Date and had fun on various foot/holdless versions of remergence etc.. Nai left, and I moved over to BBGW to re-open the 15-16 season account on West Side Story.. after forgetting how to do the first move things went quite well. repeatedly got to lunging for 3rd sidepull - and held it once only for feet to get in the way of each other. Stopped before my left index finger went through.
T: Creaky pull on the BM
W: Birthday outing to Bristol - more than half way to 90 now.... In other words a work trip to Bristol to give a Seminar there... 7 hours on the train (there and back) nice burger and pint afterwards. back by 10..
Th: CragX after Shark relentlessly nagged me to go there via social media. He arrived late and tried to big daddy belly flop on top of me as I was having a reflective moment (dropping off) on my mat. Not bad connies - friction about as good as I've felt there. Some stuff wet, some dry (can give further reports if anyone wants to know more..). I managed all the moves on Zippys overlapping in various combinations ~ but could/can not string it all together - a mix of cold and pump. Never mind, enjoyable anyway.
Fr: Minor health issue with MrsTT - morning in various hospital units/places. All OK.
Sa: MrsTT's sister and her partner Dave came up from Londinium (well they did friday eve). Off to t'Roaches ~ beautiful - about an inch of snow - below freezing. Finding beginners problems was hard - upper tier servicable though top outs were sketchy. He had a good time - learning about smearing and topping out for the first time :) I had fun on Joe's arete (superb!). Fell badly on snow/rockshoe combo and bashed my hip :(
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/23/a6a51a9656bf228b2db643cefe11935a.jpg)
Su: A gorgeous day - so off to a lancashire quarry :) Having seen R-Mans rallying call on FB - went to Wiltons 4 and 2 for the first time. Good to meet some new people there (and all those good 'ol boys from the gun club too eh...) and came strangely close on a 7B+... then kind of cheated up a 7A arete and failed multiply on the proper way. All good though. Scared myself padding up a largely featureless slab and enjoyed it thoroughly.
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STG- Extremes/ 7s on grit this season. Wall of Horrors before it's too hot again.
MTG- 7b/+ in 2016
LTG- 8a
M- Rest.
Tu- Notts Depot. Climbing well. The super-steep comp wall I normally use all my energy up on had only a few problems on due to a recent comp so mainly did vertish stuff. Good training for the forthcoming present grit bouldering season.
W- Rest. Did my part for the UKB (and many others) team by knowing the answer to roughly 1 question on the quiz.
Th- Nothing.
F-Su- Kendal Mountain Festival. Amazing weekend, Stonnis was shown nine times & I introduced it personally for 6 of them. Seeing people turn up a few minutes before the end of the film before it and knowing they've come to see my film was such a buzz. :bounce: Highlight was being part of a Grimer-hosted BMC event on the Sunday morning where they played the Mark20-on-Gaia section to an incredible reception from an audience which included most of my climbing and filmmaking heroes. Fantasy shit. Fucking hell. ;D
Plan is to increase the Climbing: Filmmaking stuff ratio again now it's cold and Kendal is over.
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Nice one Cheque, looking at all those faces lit up reacting to your film is what it's all about.
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STG: ease myself into some sort of niggle friendly training program.
MTG: Jason's/Ben's/Dialectics
LTG: 8B
M:
T: lunch time circuit training
W:
T:
F:
S: Llanberis pass. Freezing. Spent a few hours warming up. Almost bagged a quick send of Bus Stop, but was abruptly stopped by the arrival of snow. Didn't even get a chance to pull onto Jerry's.
S: Wet day in Wales, ultimately ended up at a dry Castle Hill Quarry.
a welcomed, semi-forced, rest week. Now back to work :strongbench:
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Tried Schoolboy and Mrs TB suggested grabbing hold on crux as pinch and not crimp. Major breakthrough..
What, the banister hold?
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Tried Schoolboy and Mrs TB suggested grabbing hold on crux as pinch and not crimp. Major breakthrough..
What, the banister hold?
I know. It sounds crazy. Instead of catching it half crimped with thumb on the side as you do, you just go for it as a pinch i.e. consciously grab it with thumb underneath.
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S: Wet day in Wales, ultimately ended up at a dry Castle Hill.
That's some journey in the search for dry rock, could of just tried the Cave ;-)
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Tried Schoolboy and Mrs TB suggested grabbing hold on crux as pinch and not crimp. Major breakthrough..
What, the banister hold?
I know. It sounds crazy. Instead of catching it half crimped with thumb on the side as you do, you just go for it as a pinch i.e. consciously grab it with thumb underneath.
Int that gonna cock you up for the next move, holding it like that?
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What you saying I can't do a simple campus move off a pinch :-[ ?
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Well after Tuesday you might.
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S: Wet day in Wales, ultimately ended up at a dry Castle Hill.
That's some journey in the search for dry rock, could of just tried the Cave ;-)
:) had my girlfriend not been reading this over my shoulder I would have completely missed the joke...
*Castle Inn Quarry
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Odd week. 3 days of hard training, book-ended by some kind of weird lurgy.
Mon: Moon board. Hard session.
Tues: Feeling really tired / broken / getting sick.
Wed: Hangboard (Maisch) and core.
Thurs: Moon board and hangboard (one arm max hangs).
Fri: Weights (deadlifts and kettlebell swinds) followed by hard treadmill session. Broken. Horrible nights sleep.
Sat: Wanted to go for a surf but was feeling awful. Spent whole day in bed.
Sun: Hangboard (Maisch) and core. PhD applications in progress (gulp!).
3 weeks until Cresciano. Not sure I'm where I want to be.
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STG:
MTG: 8b+ (by next summer)
LTG: 8c (within 2 years)
M. TRX and kettlebell workout. Left forearm achey following a powerful steinpull move during Sunday's tooling sesh.
T.
W. White Goods drytooling. First time there in a couple of years I think. Flashed or retro-flashed M8, M6+, M8, M8+, M8+, M8.
T. Left forearm increasingly achey..
F. Core & mobility workout. Stretching and heat pack on forearm, feels like tight/achey brachioradialis.
S. Manod drytool crag. Bolt-to-bolted M9 to warm up, forearm not good. Halfway up next route, M8+, feet cut loose while on one arm and left forearm immediately tweaked. Let go and dropped off. Spent sesh belaying.
S. Walked up Glyders in a huff.
(edit days mixed up)
Outcome is an injured what feels like bracioradialis muscle. Painful to twist hand inwards without any weight/very painful with light weight. Feels like it's muscle rather than tendon so hopefully it'll heal in 2-4 weeks. Still in the 'absolutely fucked-off with everything' stage - 14 weeks of rehabbing my right bicep longhead tendon, and just as that's getting good enough to push harder I injure the other arm. I could probably sit it out and then resume training closer to xmas. But I'd planned to only winter climb Dec and Jan and then start training for rock starting in early Feb/actually have a boudlering season for first time in years.
Won't be winter climbing now, maybe a couple of classic VI's if I'm happy it won't make me want to try anything harder. Fucked off doesn't cover it, I'm gutted to be dropping my winter plans and fed up after having spent the second half of the year since August being injured.
Gonna log out of here, put my feet up for a week and then think about training for 8b+ in spring and strategies for ignoring anything to do with winter. Fucking harsh mistress is climbing. :boohoo:
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Sorry to hear that Pete , coming after your bicep injury, that sucks :(
I hope you get over the obligatory pissed-off-ness soon and find something to keep you inspired. I've heard deadlifting is still cool.
BTW, plans are afoot for a Pedriza trip sometime around 7th - 19th February #justsayin #yolo etc
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Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board repeated most new problems from last week. Left forefinger tip split yet again.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Board did 3 new problems abit too cold in the garage need better heaters.
Sat. Turbo.
Sun. Board worked out some more new problems did a couple of them. Spent rest of day sawing up the tree that blew down on Friday night.
Another mediocre week, need to get back on track.
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Outcome is an injured what feels like bracioradialis muscle.
Bad news. I hope your self-diagnosis is correct. I'd suggest you listen to your body a little more but, as you write your story, you've clearly recognised the need to do that. I'm terrible at this.
If it is Brachioradialis, as you probably know, it's an elbow flexor but only when the hand is in the 'thumbs up' position. So a key muscle when pulling up on hooked axes, making stein-pull moves, jumaring, crack-climbing, using vertical pinches (Gogarth), or fridge-hugging. You've been training/rehabbing with biceps curls and kettle balls. If you've been mainly doing palms-up curls you've been strengthening biceps but inadvertently neglecting brachioradialis which might predispose to this injury. Winter climbers should do most of their 'biceps' exercises in the 'thumbs-up' position for this reason. Similarly, do your pull-ups on axes or dummy axes. Same applies to crack climbers and fridge huggers. Specificity rules.
I fell into this trap on The Nose last year, getting brachioradialis cramps jumaring or hand-jamming high on the route despite biceps feeling fine, I'd been doing my biceps curls conventionally palms-up and pull-ups palms-away.
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My brachioradialis give me loads of grief (see earlier on the the page) I have to do loads of stretches and massage to stop them hurting.
Outside chance it may be not as bad as initial thought, but either way RICE it and see an expert, rather than rely on self diagnosis,
Good luck dude.
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Sorry to hear that Pete, really hard luck :(
M - Jetlagged wall session, climbed well and focused on problems that work my weaknesses
T - Rest
W - 6c os, then tweaked something in my hand (thought i'd done my flexor tendon again)
T - mad ice and massage of hand
F - more ice and massage! moved into new place
S - too cold and too much snow, went to Plantation, didn't really do much as was concerned with the hand
S - Curbar - spent a few hours at trackside, did a few V4's & got ridiculously close to trackside. Quite fun for me, as I've never enjoyed bouldering, but getting closer and closer to Trackside inspired me to carry on
Goals are all over the place at the moment, since completing my LTG they've been changing almost daily.
Just enjoying climbing at the moment and will work on my power, as this is definitely my weak point
*edit, turns out its not the flexor tendon as it was almost perfect again after 3 days
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Outcome is an injured what feels like bracioradialis muscle. Painful to twist hand inwards without any weight/very painful with light weight. Feels like it's muscle rather than tendon so hopefully it'll heal in 2-4 weeks. Still in the 'absolutely fucked-off with everything' stage
:(
The only thing that shifted it for me was freezing water in a yoghurt pot and using it to press into the source of pain for a couple of miutes every night before bed for a couple of weeks. Worth trying
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Mine improved a lot by doing negative curls starting with a dumbbell of around 5kg but with the palm facing in down. Do 8-10 reps an use the other hand to assist raising the weight back up to the shoulder. However, I still seem to have some aggravation in there and this seems to be highlighted by doing negative hammer curls (thumb facing up). However, this exercise just seems to aggravate it more.
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STG: any indoor V7, if I can get outside: 7B
MTG: indoor V8, outdoor 7B+
LTG: outdoor 7C
Life doesn't get any less busy. Working in Poland from Monday to Thursday so it was a disappointing training week...
M - Flew to Berlin, managed to get a couple of hours in at Ost-bloc bouldering wall. good problems and a variety of angles and styles. I'd recommend it.
T - Working in Poland - vodka.
W - Working in Poland - vodka.
T - Working in Poland - vodka. Flew back to UK
F - Good board session - 1 hr
S - Nowt, spent time with the family
S - quick 1.5 hr session at Wilton 4 with R-Man, TomTom, Tim and a few others, but I felt pretty shit, couldn't warm up and when I did I felt crap. The only positive being that I definitely feel stronger. Pretty demoralised, but should be fixed with a new psyche list. It was the first really cold session of the year, so cold weather tactics need improving!
Pretty disappointing wk really, not helped by being away for most of it. Only 4.5 hrs of climbing, nex wk should be better, but then away for another wk.
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It seems the last couple of months including fast twitch muscle fibre recruitment has begun to pay. Back on a couple of F7a's and even one of my best, a plastic mid grade at my local wall, making it either a F7a / F7a+ or hey maybe a F7b. I never get too hung up on the number as long as the underlying water level of grades moves upwards. So I am happy.
Now I have a minor lower back muscle pull to get over (I was picking up one of my toddler daughters out the bath, rock n roll), 5 days of rest/stretching and its getting there, should be good for the weekend, huzzah.
Onwards.
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Didn't do anything all week from Monday - Friday. Too much non-climbing extra-curricular to be done.
Felt some slight lower back pain throughout the week which I haven't had before.
Saturday: Went climbing at Whitehouses, then onto Brimham. Very cross that I've gone through two tips on my left hand, despite trying to be careful, and didn't come home with any significant ticks.
Sunday: Had every intention of doing some core stuff on the pull up bar but woke up with a very stiff lower left back. Perhaps aggravated by the roof climbing the day before? I have no idea where this has come from.
So overall - crap week climbing-wise.
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Stg - keep building up 4th week back after 2 1/2 years off... Weigh in tomorrow but look to have lost a pound or two. Hopefully 14stone 10lbs. Fingers feel ok so will start pushing it to 3 times a week soon.
Ltg - 7a sport & V6 (pigswill ideally by winter 2016)
Monday - Boulderuk upto v4
Tues - run, 2 miles in 20 mins
Weds - rest
Thurs - boulderuk. Did problems upto V4 tried a few v5's, improving week in week but not there yet!
Fri - rest
Sat & sun rest family etc
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Forgive me father for I have sinned, it's been four(?) weeks since my last confession....
I'll not bore you with a day by day of the last four weeks.
Suffice it to say I went to Margalef and didn't climb 8c.
I then got ill and have barely climbed since returning home.
Crushing will start manyana, manyana...
Happy birthday Rodma
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Thanks for all the happies.
I'm keen to climb a few things this coming year and thought it'd be age that might get in the way, but if anything the hard part appears to be that my immune system is worse than my son's :D
Roll on 50, hopefully he'll be past the worst of it by then
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STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.
M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Usual Tuesday. 15 new problems every week (piss easy to hard), try and do all of them. Did all bar the 2nd hardest. Did all the moves and was falling off the top just didn't have the gas to do it. No campussing/shoulder work.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Tiny short session, boiling hot. Didn't do much.
F: Rest. 40+ degrees today... Fuck. That.
S: Frontline. Went to a sector off on its own with a handful of problems. Warmed up then flashed a V5 and then doing the right exit 2nd go (also V5). Had a quick play on Hollow Mountain Dreaming V7 but quickly moved on because I found it really unpleasant. So moved the next problem over for 7th Day Ascentist (soft as V9). Worked out all the moves but its quite slopey and tough on the skin and right shoulder, so couldn't quite get it. Will be back though. More importantly though, I did manage to do Diplomatic Immunity V4 which as a massive sandbag and its such a great technical little slopey seam. So so so good. Prob try it every time I go to Frontline........ Went 2nd go too. haha
S: The Villas. First time here, only climbed in the cave not at the cliffs, need more pads and spotter for some of those I think... Did the crag classic Burgers V5, tough little thing. Then jumped onto Savage V8. Burly thing. Eventually got all moves and managed it in 2 overlapping sections. Tough on the skin and very tiring. Can do this when fresher.
Crimpy finish to Savage.
(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/790462662.jpg)
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Roll on 50
What about 45, you can start winning the veterans' comps?
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I thought Veterans' were just over 40.
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Roll on 50
What about 45, you can start winning the veterans' comps?
Not if I keep getting ill.
45 for some comps nibs, I'm happy to remain a senior :D
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I thought Veterans' were just over 40.
In Scotland they seem to have put it back to 45 again.
http://www.mcofs.org.uk/snbl.asp
Works for me, I don't have to lose out to whippersnappers like rodma ;)