UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on April 10, 2017, 12:02:06 am
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11.3-5
M.
T. PM Malham. Felt a bit ragged from a long day previously when hadn't got home till 1am due to excessive length of NW Area meeting. Fortunately not driving. Left Sheff at noon with Rob Greenwood, Jerome, Phil ? and Penny. Lovely day. Sunny but reasonable cool air temp. Oak dry. Warmed up on Appetite 7a+ as it was in shade. Bit spooked with the start being wet. Climbed clunkily. Took a rest on a bolt before the crux then led to the top. Not a good start. Led it again cleanly but still not happy with movement. Go 1 Put rope on the Oak. Had a play around on some moves to get recruited then linked horn to the top but definitely not flowing. Go 2 linked throw to the top :-) Go 3 Had intended to try 2nd bolt to top but got persuaded to try from ground and got but didnt hold horn. Go 4 Maybe 20 mins rest then did virtually same link but just touvching the horn. Skin pretty sore by now. Go 5 Long rest including a walk to top of cove. Aimed to do it in two halves. Desperate attempt but got from ground to setting up for throw. Busted and basically dogged to top. Good conditions I thought but the team were less convinced over on Raindogs. Awesome second day of the year (first was 2nd March ) and looking back at my diary it took me 6 sessions to get to this point at the beginning of last year. Shows I've been doing the right sort of training especially given I am carrying an extra 6lbs (not for long) and not moving slickly yet. Bring on new skin for friday
W.
T.
F. Malham High hopes after Tuesday. Fatal. Sunny but coolish air. Up with old crew (literally) Paul, Steve and Keith. Cons x1 then x2 to warm up. Didn't feel great on them. Up Oak. Toe piece of whites felt a bit past their best. Rock still a bit skiddy from sun. Managed horn to top (IMO hard 7c+ btw). Felt sleepy. Belayed Keith then had a nap in Sun. Belayed Keith again and went for a walk to warm back up. Broke out THE LAST PAIR of whites. Two goes from ground within 20mins of each other falling setting up for throw. Tips hurt. A lot. Couldn't understand why I was worse than tues. Got chilly. Long rest/belaying. Pulled up to throw and just couldn't do it - too tired. Eventually got so frustrated managed to do it and digging deep carried on and almost got to the top (so AnCap must be in good shape at least). Stripped it. Belayed Keith. Others still finishing up so went for a glass of wine in Listers to warm up.
S.
S. Met Seb at Rubicon. Good warmup on traverses. Then went Crag X. UKB poster Alex there. :wave: Jericho Road 7B in good nick. Nice to be back. Had a few goes trying top half but couldn't hold pinch. Then a couple of goes from the ground. 20 degrees driving home. Eve Strictish on the minute pullups 4x10 then some deadlifts.
Very frustrating going backwards on Friday. Had originally planned to try and go up this tuesday again but decided it would be better to intersperse Oak sessions with other stuff so I dont go down the road of getting specifically strong but generally weaker. Climbing with Moose on Friday and Bank Holiday Monday around family holiday plans. Doing a lot of travelling this week. Llanberis Monday, London Wednesday and Cardiff Thursday then up to Malham and South Lakes Friday. Also may have accidentally bought another house.
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Sounds like a good first session of the year Shark!
STG - april
Boulder > 7a
3 days outside - 1/3
Do something good in N. Wales
MTG - end of summer
Do something good in Font
LTG - this time next year
not sure
Monday
Arch B1
Attempts on two V7's, good progress on both. Should have finished one of them.
Tuesday
nowt
Wednesday
Arch B1
All the new problems apart from 1 Red, 1 Green and 1 White
Thursday
nowt
Friday
Arch B1
Did one of the V7's from monday first try. Then worked on...
Green V7? in Cave, ok progress, couple of moves to work out.
White V6 in Cave, so close, just one tenuous move i kept falling off
Saturday
nowt
Sunday
Couple of hours at Eridge, got a new record of 45 minutes from door to crag.
some easy stuff
attempts on Nightfall 7C. This felt way beyond me, but good to get a measure of it. Keen to keep trying it but realistically need to do a few low and mid 7's before i'm up to something this hard.
attempts on Goatrage 7B. Felt much better on this, did the first half pretty easily, and all the moves individually. Just need to come back with enough skin on my right hand to link it.
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M - Lunch run. PM Homeboard. Slow warm up then good finish trying hard new project.
T -
W - Foundry lunch. Lattice. Broken 1/4s. 32 x 4 x 2, failed on 28th move of 3rd rep on 3rd set. A few autobelays.
T - Burbage. Met Nic. Warmed up at the bridge then went to try some little 7a of Scouse's called 'Hidden in Plain sight'. Had a couple of goes but pulled something in my glute so spotted Nic and Bendyvision. Showed Nic the delights of BSMA but not sure he was convinced. Dave turns up. I use some of that dodgy expensive chalk and Dave's liquid chalk and get to the foot-over-your-hand move three times. Earlier I'd linked from there to hand on arete. Dave gets to one move from the finish and falls off due to calf muscle spasm. Good sess. Getting closer.
F - Drive to Lakes for mates 40th.
S - Frost on tent in Borrowdale. Amazing weather. Coledale Horseshoe fell race. V tough. Re-vitalised after a visit to Booths and a shower we meet the climbers at Reecastle. I manage to lead Rack Finger Flake finish. Beer/food in Scafell Hotel.
S - Team heads to Shepherds. I lead Aeros, Bludgeon and get a top rope up MGC. Great to be leading my first trad routes for a few years (other than a VS I did with Mrs T_B in 2015). Felt like a climber ;D
Great week.
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...got a new record of 45 minutes from door to crag.
What car did you say you'd acquired?!
STG: Rehab. elbow, 6c at Siurana
MTG: tbc
LTG: 7b. Classic sea-cliff E5 this August.
M - Shoulder exercises.
T - Der Meistersinger von Nuremberg (Covent Garden), very good.
W - Shoulder exercises.
T - Shoulder exercises. Temples (Brixton), decent band but rubbish sound.
F - Westway: 15 mins, very easy (4+) routes, elbow 3/10.
S - Shoulder exercises. Lots of walking. Train to Edinburgh.
S - Shoulder exercises. Lots of walking.
M - Soloing to VS at Blackford Quarry (in the footsteps of Harold Raeburn, no less). Absurdly fun and satisfying for a couple of hours in a grotty, glassy hole in the ground. Elbow nearly pain-free.
T - Shoulder exercises. Lots of walking.
W - Shoulder exercises. Lots of walking. Train back to London.
T - Westway: 30 mins, routes to 5+, elbow 3/10.
F - Shoulder exercises, elbow 4/10. WTF!
S - Lots of walking.
S - Westway: 45 minutes, routes to 6a, elbow 3/10. Resurrected apparently dead washing machine. Cost £7.99 in parts versus £400 for a new one, accrued numerous domestic credits (priceless), felt competent and manly. YYFY!
Resuming power club after a break since I managed to retweak my elbow for the nth time. Feel battered this morning from a short session of easy stuff. On the other hand my elbow feels no worse than if I’d done nothing. Hope this represents the tipping point.
Plan: off to Siurana with young people tomorrow. Main aim is to not go mad and tweak anything; a 6c would be nice. Need to think of some medium-term goals beyond not getting injured.
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11.3 (down from 11.6 post Tenerife weight)
M: Forgotten...
Tu: Brownstones for a quick session that turned into quite a long one. Usual warm ups, starting to get my crimp back in shape after a week or more off... ended up back on Groundhog at the end of the day. Remembered my moves (inc vital hand adjust) but had not beans left. Spent 5 min scratching my head at the SS.
We: Over to Hull. Went to see city in the evening - 4:2 win - fantastic night.
Th: Stopped off at the Cliff on the way back. Warm - but windy, and the first time I'd been there for probably over two years. Thankfully years of hard fought muscle memory had not deserted me and all the usual warm ups went well. DWR 2nd go (I forgot I had to crimp quite hard...), Crux trav and Dreamland (I love that problem)... then seeking some shade ended up on Black Wall dyno.. a 7A I'd not done... horribly bunched up, but I persevered and slapped the jug a few times but no latch (annoyingly). Then went home and saw Uptowns video where he thumbsprags and pinches an intermediate (that I thought about several times but never tried) before popping again.. next time. But pleased to have got close when I've not managed to get off the deck before. Back worryingly achy afterwards...
Fr: Yoga. Back felt better.
Sa: More football - this time at the Etihad where we were thumped... good to catch up with old pals - back home.
Su: Busy day - Baby duties from 7 > 12 (successfully..) then lunch with friends.. then managed to sneak off to Helsby early evening. Lovely little session (that was meant to be 45 min but ended up being 90) - nearly back to previous strengths but still missing a bit. Found a cool new eliminate problem at the end that made me happy at about 6C.
Getting there... considering moving in to property consultancy.. ;)
Edit: Forgot my manners - good weeks all - and don't forget to climb faster Shark ;)
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Goals - 7B lime, 7B grit, fighting weight, return to 2016 FB standard (tho not sure what that means any more!)
M- rehab
T- play on dynos at minus ten. Really enjoyed myself. Didn't get anything but the easy one but there's s knack to learn and a weakness to train. Nice to get on lime again.
Finger board half crimp, sets of +33kgs. Worried about form and doing it wrong. Big question marks over this. Some say thumb against fingers, some say thumb not against fingers. How is a punter to know what to do and does the wrong way still work. Deeply philosophical thoughts.
W- rehab
T- works. Promised myself I would try hard on the motherboard but couldn't get my head round it. I couldn't even get to within a move of the finish of tick tack 7A though have it 8-10 good goes. Maybe should have had a nice time on the wasps instead but you don't get better by having a nice time.
F- rehab, some kettlebell swings and get ups. I must be doing it wrong.
S- rehab
S- family bouldering at RHS. Such a great day. One hand square slab was fun and doing barefoot laps of violence was even more fun. Bouldering doesn't have to always be a battle at the limit. Kids slept, the 1 year old pathed some of the baby problems - so proud.
Weight - 69 still. 7kgs too heavy.
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STG: "Benchmark" moonboard 6B+. Close.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: 40 minutes mobility & shoulder presses
T: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Short & desultory session, both of us tired & I wasn't feeling fully recovered from the weekend. Did a few max hangs at home afterwards in order to feel that I'd at least made some effort.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Aerocap mileage - a dozen routes in the 5c to 6a+ range. Pleasant relaxed session.
T: Bike to work one hour
F: Moonboard. Did all the moves on Wuthering Heights; touched but couldn't hold the finish on my best attempt. Soon.
S: Watched Shauna cruise to glory in Meiringen, then allowed near-success yesterday to seduce me into trying a second consecutive day on the moonboard with predictable results. No tick.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt with M jnr. Warmed up on slabby balance problems, because they were the only realistic option in the circumstances, and because I have neglected them in training the last few years so that they have become a weakness. Then a dozen aerocap-ish circuits in the 5c to 6b+ range.
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Sunday
Couple of hours at Eridge, got a new record of 45 minutes from door to crag.
some easy stuff
attempts on Nightfall 7C. This felt way beyond me, but good to get a measure of it. Keen to keep trying it but realistically need to do a few low and mid 7's before i'm up to something this hard.
attempts on Goatrage 7B. Felt much better on this, did the first half pretty easily, and all the moves individually. Just need to come back with enough skin on my right hand to link it.
If you're heading down again and fancy some company, give me a shout and I'll pop over...
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...got a new record of 45 minutes from door to crag.
What car did you say you'd acquired?!
The secret is to leave said door at 5.45am.
If you're heading down again and fancy some company, give me a shout and I'll pop over...
I shall, are you fairly local? If not can offer a lift from London.
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M: Last day in Font
T: Drive to England
W:
T:
F: Core workout
S: Wedding
S: Quick hit at Anston Stones on my way back up north. Climbed Fine Beta 7C on the quick.
Think I may have overdone it in Font, my left shoulder currently hurts a bit when I hold my arm out to the side horizontally and when I bring it in front of me from that position. Although it doesn't feel bad whilst climbing or when I do the typical theraband exercises. Might give it another week and then see a physio. :/
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I shall, are you fairly local? If not can offer a lift from London.
Hastings, so can be over in an hour or so...
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Goals:
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by June
In shape for SA in summer.
Body Audit: Both middle fingers bit tender but nothing major.
Sleep: Really good this week.
70kg >:(
M: TCA, brief session trying the last few blacks, got some new beta for the slab which had been feeling impossible, went ok. Also got right hand roof problem, easier than it looked. Most useful from training POV was working and getting the moves on the 35 - think this one will be hardish, dynamic compression. Ace steak on the first BBQ of the year after. (~7hrs, 4dk)
T: TCA, still on the blacks. No progress on the left hand roof, spent most of session falling off the 35 - did in halves and repeated crux from the ground a few times so pretty happy with progress. (~8hrs, 1dk)
W: Nothing. (~7.5hrs, 2dk)
T: TCA, Blacks again, redid a couple of easier ones that had been tweaked, and pleased to manage the 35 (7C/+) despite connies feeling worse than earlier in the week. Used psyche from that to work out crux on left roof and just about do it (though my match def wouldn't have passed muster in a WC...)(~7hrs, 1dk)
F: Nothing, drive to Pembroke. (~6.5hrs, 0dk)
S: Preseli - amazing spot, lovely views, great lines, fantastic quality rock. Not loads there, esp given the amount of rock, and not a lot of hard stuff, but for 5's and 6's it's brilliant! Jumped in the (freezing) sea after, then pub for awesome local lamb. Top top day. ;D (~11hrs, 4dk)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170410/154fcd43bfac324b16eca7d43c4dd93e.jpg)
Ro warming up
S: Mynydd Dinas, woke late and bit fried from previous day, so just couple of hours bimbling on stuff I've done before. Still one of the best views bouldering ever though. (~6.5hrs, 1dk)
Lush weekend on easy stuff, feeling ok on the hard circuit at TCA too. Heaviest for a while though - sunshine = booze = heavy :no:
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M - 6a at LPT, lie down, eat cake
T-S nowt
S not much more...
Felt wasted all week, busy at work, a bit run down, ill, a wet blanket, all of the above?? Anyway Font in five days, doubt i'll be going well but the holiday will be nice.
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Oh and of course...
GO SHARK, THIS SEASON FO SHO
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STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon. First 8b+ (Mecca), spring
MTG: Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Week 9 / 10 before starting trying Mecca.
M.Neck weights.
T. Aerocap on routes. Llanymynach. 6 pitches o/s: 6b+, 6b+, 7a+, 7a, 6c, 6b except Nomad which was a 'second go' after being soaking on the crux last week.
W. Power. Boardroom Moonboard. First go back on the moonboard in around 8 weeks. Ended up flashing six 7As - either I've improved or they were all soft and not 7A. Some of them felt soft for sure.. AeroPow: foot-on campusing on medium rungs. 1.30 on / 2 min rest. Felt brutal first time back on this. Managed 4 reps of decreasing time on (1.15, 1.15, 1min, 50secs). Good sesh.
T.
F. Power. Boardroom moonboard. Again flashed another five 7As and finished off another one. This time some of them felt the grade. Going fairly well it seems for the first two power sessions back on the board. AeroPow, Latticeboard: 48 moves, 30 secs rest, 32 moves, 10 minds rest. Repeated twice. On 3rd repeat I managed three-quarters of first and second reps. Good sesh.
S. Kettlebell workout. Beautiful day - blue skies low wind cool air. Evening run into Idwal and solo'd up Hope and the Continuation Wall, ran back down to van. Had the slabs all to myself on a gorgeous evening. Used to love mountain running but dropped it after back surgery, this reminded me how much I love it.
S. Neck weights. Pilbox wall for a quick hit in the evening. Quick play on finish of Milenium Drive. Still feeling hard..
Decent training week, need to keep at it this week. Slightly surprised by moonboard flashes but should be at this level.
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Power Club
Mon - boxing bag, combinations and Tabata.
Tue - rest.
Wed - lunchtime: BM max hangs; PE lattice test: 3'; 2'15" (75%); 1'30". Evening: deadlift 68 kg x 10, 20, 20, 20, 10. Hell on earth.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - quick weights and front lever pulls session.
Sun - despite, or perhaps thanks to, a night of partying, strong lifting session. The first one with straps. PB snatch 3 x 46 kg. Clean and press 3 x 46; 6 x 2 x 41. Boxing bag. Brilliant.
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STG: Crush Swizzy
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A
M: Core
T: Fingerbord
W: Core
T
F
S: Fly to Milan, drive to Chironico. Did Doctor Med Dent 7B fairly quickly. Such a good line, psyched!
S: Probably my best ever day bouldering! Did Quasimodo 7B, Matusalem 6C+, Vasco di Gamma 7A, Chad's Bulge 7A.
Rest day today then off for more crushing. I want to try a 7C that isn't wrongly graded as I've heard people give Powerstrips 7B/+... Something burly on relatively good holds? Gonna try Ping Pong Boulder tomorrow. Suggestions welcome?
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2017 Goal - 16? of 40 Ticked (FYI - goal is to tick 40 7C+ or harder boulder problems that I've not done before - I turn 40 in June...)
M-Sneak out for a quick session. Wu inside, then hit the boulder. Conditions were absolutely mint. Ticked #'s 15(8A/+) and 16(8A) of the year and manage to repeat another old 8A I did in 2011
T- rest/work
W-Another short outside session. Worked another new 8A a mate put up last year, and worked two projects, both in the 8A-8B range. Did all but the opening move on each. good day out, will need to work on the landing for the projects though.
T-rest
F-Short session with Wife and Nephew at wall. Fun to get on rope w Family
S-rest
S-Short local outdoor session. trying to scope out seaside project, but it's still covered in 2 feet of ice :o I guess winter is just ending here. Its been unreal getting out so early with all the sun. Managed to repeat a new 7C+ I put up in February, and made up a new contrived traverse with really cool movement at about 7C. fun day w friends.
Now I head back out of town for nearly two weeks. Thankfully, after this I get a long stretch at home. It'll be time to train again :)
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Mon: Fly back from London. Sneak in a few hours of bouldering and deadlifting.
Tues: Lunchtime run
Wed: Hangboard and core session.
Thurs: Deadlifts at lunch and a quick boulder and campus hit after work.
Fri:AM Run. PM Drive to Lambert's Bay for a wedding. Frustrating to be so close to Rocklands and not climbing but probably needed the rest day. Ate terribly and drank too much. Oh well.
Sat: Rest day, wedding.
Sun: Bouldering, deadlifts up to 5 x 120kgs and campusing. Big session.
All in all, a decent week. Have 4 days in Rocklands at the end of this week. Hope the weather plays ball and I get some climbing in.
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Mon - massage
Tue - nowt
Wed - Warmed up at home amazingly quickly, headed to youknowwhere, quick tweak of the finishing beta again making me wonder what I'd been doing previously . Rested for 15 minutes and...
https://vimeo.com/212135302
AnCap back home. Felt a bit easy.
Th - Late decision to go to Tor - got on Tin Of, Chimes, Ben's & Rattle & Hump with success ranging from "didn't leave the ground" to "made it to the top"
Fri -
Sat - travel to Devon, hour at Bonehill in the (rather glorious) evening. Jumped on a 6A to warm up and promptly failed. Same on a 5+ and then a 4+. Improved marginally but I think this needs to be put down as a schooling. Nice sunset though.
Sun - Another hour at Bonehill in (another glorious) evening, bottled Rippled Wall (6B) from 2ft below the top half a dozen times, not very confident of either what I'm holding on to or what I'm standing on.
Fell slapping for the supermassivehold that marks the end of the hard stuff on The Wave (7A) after too many attempts. Was closing in on it but had promised I'd be back to watch Robot Wars with the kids so had to leave. Very disappointed to get home and find golf on instead. Skin suffering already.
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[quote author=nai link=topic=27985.msg549157#msg549157 date=1491855213
Sat - travel to Devon, hour at Bonehill in the (rather glorious) evening. Jumped on a 6A to warm up and promptly failed. Same on a 5+ and then a 4+. Improved marginally but I think this needs to be put down as a schooling. Nice sunset though.
Sun - Another hour at Bonehill in (another glorious) evening, bottled Rippled Wall (6B) from 2ft below the top half a dozen times, not very confident of either what I'm holding on to or what I'm standing on.
Fell slapping for the supermassivehold that marks the end of the hard stuff on The Wave (7A) after too many attempts. Was closing in on it but had promised I'd be back to watch Robot Wars with the kids so had to leave. Very disappointed to get home and find golf on instead. Skin suffering already.
[/quote]
Glad to see you went to the world's nicest place, with most horrible holds on the planet! That monkey paw on the wave leaves its mark!
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Yes been taking the easy approach option but going to try saddle, hound and bovey now. Probably stick to circuiting now, had ambitions on stuff like Dancing Queen and nether edge but I'm nothing like comfortable enough on easier ground to handle the top outs.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
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M- Day off work well spent, pottering around the orange circuit at Potala. I love easy circuiting. Spent a while trying a 6A prob that I can't do and still couldn't do it. At least real rock doesn't feel completely alien.
T - Rest
W/ Th - Beastmaker have updated their app, so the 5A routine looks at least vaguely feasable. 1 set each day, mixed slopers, jugs. 7x 7on 3off was all too much, so fiddled with the timing a bit. Shoulder seems ok, so best get back too it.
Fr - Noticed knee was a bit achey all week, but felt dodgy on my indoor session, so took it easy, didn't do much. One injury disappears as another arrives.
Sa/ Su - Families, drinking, bbqs.
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Missed 1 week update due to a couple of horrible weeks at work.
At least I managed a couple of good sessions.
Tue 28: weights deadlifts. hangboard 30"-30" rest x4 3 sets
Sat 01: board climbing. Good session. Fell on the last hold on a project set a few weeks back.
Mon 03: board climbing. Another good session.
Wed 05: weigths. hiit
Fri 07: conference in Rome. Dinner with friends.
Sat 08 - Sun 09: flight to Lyon and back in Rome and then Siena. Eat a lot.
Strangely enough, having done very little in the last few weeks I feel quite well when climbing on the board. I'll have another busy week at work than I hope I can get back into training and climbing more regularly.
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M: limit bouldering session
T: Core routine b 3 sets . Press ups 3 x 30
W: BBC general bouldering
Th: none
F: Went to Dinbren to try fitting outdoor routes session in between school times.Worked out ok. Plan to try and make Fridays a regular outdoor climbing day.
Sa: none
Su: Dinbren 7a+ x 5 Felt like some endurance is coming back , well felt ok on these shorter (15m) routes anyway.
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Mon. Feeling knackered due to take missus to out of hours doctor late last night. Bike 63.16 miles 3 hrs 42 mins.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Drive wife to work. Board just repeating stuff. Picked wife up from work.
Fri. Drive wife to docs then to work, then back to docs. Board repeaters bike intervals.
Sat. Bike 33.54 miles 2 hrs 2 mins did a climb rated 5 out of 10 in best climbs in Yorkshire felt desperate.
Sun. Nothing.
Spent a lot of time driving missus around who has a severe inner ear infection. So training went awry.
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M.
T.
W.
T.
F.
S. Bouldering at Thorn Crag. Nice day of easy things with a quick 7A tick too.
S. Routes at Giggleswick south. Got spanked.
Nice to be feeling not ill again. This week is looking quiet too due to work but hopefully I'll be back into the training swing after Easter!