UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: (woz) on May 07, 2008, 10:47:11 am
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I did a few new(?) problems at eatswood over Easter. Nothing special, but may keep you occupied for an hour or two:
Topo: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/2473429986_f1e5113697.jpg?v=0 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/2473429986_f1e5113697.jpg?v=0)
Sublux - 7b+
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2132/2472613293_3483e2a86d.jpg?v=0)
Pen Six - 7c
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3228/2472608049_72e0b83638.jpg?v=0)
Farmer's Pride (the L arete of the overhang) - 5+
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2072/2473429418_c840852773.jpg?v=0)
NB: This doesnt mean that the access situation has changed, but there are several other threads on that matter.
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Has that bloke in the pic just eaten an icecream?
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they all look well good. nice find.
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cheers dave.
I almost forgot, i have a (shit quality) video of the traverse. http://youtube.com/watch?v=HJyvGoYYijI (http://youtube.com/watch?v=HJyvGoYYijI)
I've changed my mind on the grade since then.
Chris: ice cream? you have lost me there.
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(very white 'tache). Sorry, off topic.
Look good actually.
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For those who have heard the joke:
Looks like you've blown a seal, mate.
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He does look cold!
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I climbed a new problem here last week.
Culpeper's Practice is about 7c, and is on Nod's Buttress, which is found towards the right end of the crag, before you reach Woz's problems. Nod's Buttress is a big slabby wall with a long roof running along it's base, and has a distinctive smooth side wall with two diagonal cracks running up it. The buttress' left arete from sitting is mentioned in Ru's guide at 6b and is excellent. Culpeper's Practice climbs the roof and wall a couple of metres right of this.
The roof has an obvious juggy rail running through it, taken by a good looking E1 of Bonjoy's. For Culpeper's Practice, start by reaching the flake at the lower left end of the rail, and work up and left on crimps then slopers, making for a large, shallow, open scoop in the middle of the slab. once there, finish more easily up the slab above to the large break of Holly Tree Traverse.
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This is a quality problem. I've got some footage of attempts before the ascent and will post up when i get a chance.