UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: shark on May 30, 2020, 10:00:10 pm
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In light of Ned’s recent hard problem, “The Boss” at Yarncliffe and Jack Pal’s chastising I got in touch and he’s up for doing an interview.
Fire away with what you’d like to know...
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Did he time this just before lockdown so no-one could sneak in for a repeat this grit season??
Who's the best now, him or Dan??
Is Yarncliffe now the cutting edge of UK climbing??
Should a so-called "dark horse" really have an Insta account??
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He's a chestnut horse at best
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I think you should ask him about the intervention in first year, mostly as it's very amusing.
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No questions but thought the name he gave his new problem was a nice touch. Perhaps this could be used to draw him out regarding his knowledge and appreciation of his predecessors and any influence they've had on him.
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Should be good- I enjoyed the Jam Crack Podcast that he did.
Whatever you do don't mention the project left of Boot Crack at Caley. Will's got that pencilled in for a quick lank for when the temperatures drop...
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Who would win in a self effacement contest, him or Steve Mac?
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Did Ned do the rest of the problems already established in and around Yarncliffe Cave whilst working the Boss?
If so what did he think of the neo-classic 'Ants in your pants'? ;)
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Should be good- I enjoyed the Jam Crack Podcast that he did.
Really? I thought that one lacked a bit - maybe as Grimer didn't really seem that up on bouldering
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Is Ned Zeppelin actually the grimmest mantle in the world? Simultaneously appalled and awed at the same time.
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Offer him a single pea on a teaspoon.
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It'd be interesting to get his thoughts on some of the other hard stuff he's repeated in the peak and surrounding area. Thinking of stuff like Bordello, Mike Adam's hard things at Anston, Impossible roof etc.
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Who would win in a self effacement contest, him or Steve Mac?
Or Micky?
Nice one for sorting Shark!
General details about the new problem would be good to hear / see.
Is Nick Brown just hoarding footage of The Boss, Ill Behaviour and Separate Feehality or will it see the light of day at some point?
Any other potentially hardest problems on grit he's done and not told anyone about?
Can he describe a normal week training/climbing wise. Board, hangboard, etc. Just be interesting to hear what he does in comparison to the Instaspam from others.
Can he join power club for a couple of weeks?!
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Can he describe a normal week training/climbing wise. Board, hangboard, etc. Just be interesting to hear what he does in comparison to the Instaspam from others.
Ned just heel hooks the slopers upside down on the Beastmaker 2000.
What’s the hardest heel hook move he has ever done?
Do you think anyone will ever match his heel hook capabilities?
Monster or over-caffeinated sugary drink company?
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Monster or over-caffeinated sugary drink company?
Red..... Bull..... have the powers that be automatically corrected this to over-caffeinated sugary drink company?
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Do you think anyone will ever match his heel hook capabilities?
Pete Robins on a par I reckon. Imagine if he wasn’t a lazy cunt and trained like Ned...
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Monster or over-caffeinated sugary drink company?
Red..... Bull..... have the powers that be automatically corrected this to over-caffeinated sugary drink company?
Yes. Longstanding.
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over-caffeinated sugary drink company
Sorry just had to test... why is that then?
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Is Nick Brown just hoarding footage of The Boss, Ill Behaviour and Separate Feehality or will it see the light of day at some point?
A little bit of footage on the other channel
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/06/gritstones_hardest_problem_for_ned_feehally-72334
The wide shots do it a lot more justice than the original insta photo.
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has he done much in Scotland or have any plans to ?
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Which physical ability does he consider his best and most important?
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Which physical ability does he consider his best and most important?
He's a fingerboard manufacturer :)
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Is Nick Brown just hoarding footage of The Boss, Ill Behaviour and Separate Feehality or will it see the light of day at some point?
A little bit of footage on the other channel
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/06/gritstones_hardest_problem_for_ned_feehally-72334
The wide shots do it a lot more justice than the original insta photo.
Great stuff, thanks for flagging hadn't seen that. Looks very cool.
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has he done much in Scotland or have any plans to ?
Good question. Project to the right of Malc's needs doing.
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Sounds like from the report on The boss on ukc he’s done the hardest things on grit quite quick... is there anything with a lower grade that gave him more trouble (not taking into account lots of bad connies)??
Neds often heard to bemoan publicising climbing... yet still does a bit and lets Nick film him... is this out of duty to sponsors or does he feel compelled in some way to tell his story/inspire others?
Does he enjoy hearing about what others have been up to or is he not bothered?
Does he have anything on his hitlist when the connies get better?
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45" in of that video is quite mental if I see it right.
Just on the edge of a drop, if he swings out they'll both fly over the edge or what?
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Ask him if he's aware that as he gets older he's starting to look like John Dunne as when he's trying really hard..
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Ask him if he thinks working eliminates in Bens Roof is good prep for Malham sport routes? 💋
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LOL. It never tires.
Ask him if he thinks climbing faster helps.
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Andy Moles posted a good question on the ukc thread about the boss -
Brits, including Ned seem to smash out 8B+ pretty quick abroad then take quite a bit longer to do problems in the U.K. that then get graded 8B+ as well... is that because they are under grading the U.K. problems (if so, why), or are the abroad problems over graded? Or is there something else at play - (more consistent good connies making progression on a problem easier as you can make sure you are well rested but also have the problem fresh in your mind)
What would be in Neds top 5 boulders climbed and why? (Not that I’ll likely ever climb any of them)
:geek:
Ooh also Seem to remember in an old interview him saying that his best days have been doing easier things (could be totally misquoting here) - what has driven him to try so hard in light of that?
(If my questions are shit feel free not to ask them)
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Another one from reading the UKC article.
It sounds like he got a bit jaded with the Peak at one time or another. Is he not psyched for other areas around the UK? I'm assuming he's done High Fidelity, Cypher and Rhythm but what about things like Lanny, Star Power, Bombadil, The Rail, Madame Allure, Isles of Wonder, You Can Go Now, Spaceship, etc.? Not to mention the legions of things to do in Scotland. Only ask because if I were capable of those I'd be on them like a rash!
Is he just less interested in repeating things than in new development? Or does he not fancy the extra driving?
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Brits, including Ned seem to smash out 8B+ pretty quick abroad then take quite a bit longer to do problems in the U.K. that then get graded 8B+ as well... is that because they are under grading the U.K. problems (if so, why), or are the abroad problems over graded? Or is there something else at play - (more consistent good connies making progression on a problem easier as you can make sure you are well rested but also have the problem fresh in your mind)
I think UK grades vs rest of world is a good line of questioning.
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Nice report and video. Pity it ends up on UKC as default but I guess that gets the juicy advertisers loot flowing into Nick Brown.
A further question: Did he ever cut loose and kick El Mocho off the edge, and if so was that better than actually doing the problem??
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Brexit grading. Making life harder for ourselves for no real reason 😃
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Another one from reading the UKC article.
It sounds like he got a bit jaded with the Peak at one time or another. Is he not psyched for other areas around the UK? I'm assuming he's done High Fidelity, Cypher and Rhythm but what about things like Lanny, Star Power, Bombadil, The Rail, Madame Allure, Isles of Wonder, You Can Go Now, Spaceship, etc.? Not to mention the legions of things to do in Scotland. Only ask because if I were capable of those I'd be on them like a rash!
Is he just less interested in repeating things than in new development? Or does he not fancy the extra driving?
He's done IoW, tried MA and said it doesn't suit him (narrow compression). Dunno about the others though
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Fair enough, was kind of thinking generally though and just picking the first that sprung to mind from different areas. Lots of others to do.
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Has he ever tried an already established problem and been absolutely appalled at how difficult it seems. And, not for blatantly morphological reasons, rather the sheer "next-gen" demands it makes. Or, have all the top level test-pieces he has tried felt like they would be doable with enough effort. A bit of a tangent but I am thinking of the "ordinary genius" versus "magician" distinction bandied about after Richard Feynman's death, e.g. the mathematician Hans Kec wrote:
''There are two kinds of geniuses, the `ordinary` and the `magicians.` An ordinary genius is a fellow that you and I would be just as good as, if we were only many times better. There is no mystery as to how his mind works. Once we understand what they have done, we feel certain that we, too, could have done it.
''It is different with the magicians . . . the working of their minds is for all intents and purposes incomprehensible. Even after we understand what they have done, the process by which they have done it is completely dark. . . . Richard Feynman is a magician of the highest caliber.''
So, I wonder, although climbing is a physical discipline, if some climbers are more "magicians" than others (or perhaps mutant is a better term) - and if even their elite peers are astounded (or dismayed), or if it is more of a continuum.
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Whilst everyone else is sidetracked by the fingerboard / beastmaker thing, bouldering connoisseurs have noted that Ned's secret weapon is his insane flexibility.
Has he any top tips to improve this domain???
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I suspect his answer might include stretching.. 😂
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I didn't want to pre-empt answers but wondering about Jean Claude Van Ned or Pavel TsatsouNed etc...