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places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: north_country_boy on April 20, 2007, 09:40:06 am
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Paid my first visit of the year to WCJ Cornice last night and was amazed to find it so dry already! Brachiation Dance and Free Monster were dryer than they were last July/August with only tiny patches of damp.... :great:
Whole of the cornice was very dry but very very dusty......not sure if a hold has broken off the bottom wall/slab of BD but it felt harder than I remember!? :-\
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yeah I was there with Fi at the end of last season and she was saying the same thing. Didn't reckon it was any harder just a different sequence was needed.
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Probably no harder for someone of my height or taller but for anyone shorter using the same sequence it must feel desperate...
Any plans for rebolting/requipping low-offs here?
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It just means you have to get your foot onto that little nubbin thing a bit earlier thats all.
....and I believe there are plans.
To be honest this would be one of the areas I would be happy to carry out the bolting as I've spent a lot of time there over the last few seasons although I reckon that Kristian (sp?) has done a fair bit on some of the routes such as Rumble and Monsterosity. Out of interest does anyone know who rebolted Disillusioned?. Anything you noticed in dire need? a proper lower-off on free monster perhaps? On Yorkshire 8b left hand finish I didn't really like the look of the extender which had a 'glued shut' snapgate on it...
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Free monster could do with a low off but best having a maillon on last bolt to strip it.....
I think it has a new bolt in it aswell, just below the jump/lunge for the flake....(new bolt is about 6 inches below old one next to crimp and nipple)
I'd be more than happy to lend a hand with some rebolting work here...
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That bolt was there last year, i'm fairly certain it was anyway. There was a fair bit of faffing on that route last year by various parties with extended slings and all sorts being used on the 'new' bolt.
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yeah i heard somethign about Rob Smith (?) having that extended or missing it to do the crux, pretty big/nasty fall I suspect! and rather bizarre seen as youn have the pocket to clip off next to it?
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I can't remember who it was but someone was taking some nasty falls back onto the bottom bit of the route because of bolt selection...Is that your project down there?
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yeah need to finish it off sharpish, fell off last moves over top twice last year....
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Yes WCJ Cornice is a priority for re-eqipping. With my plans this year I have little time to do any bolting personally so it's mostly up to volunteers like your good selves.
The plan is to have a bolt placing workshop at somewhere like Horshoe to get people up to speed on safe placement. Was discussing this with a chap from the BMC last night. No concrete plan yet, but will post a thread if and when we get something together, so all willing people can come along.
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I understood from Bonjoy that he would organise a collective re bolting trip down to the Cornice. I havent heard anything recently.
Glad it seems to be drying off OK and I wouldnt worry about the grey stuff too much as it goes very quickly after a working session. The barometer for a dry season is often the seapage around the hole on Eclipsed, I wonder what that is like?
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Yeah I expected DGM to be soaking still but it looks drier than last summer like the rest of the crag. Looks like it will be a good season!! ;D
I'd be really keen to help out with the requipping of this fine crag, and the bolting workshop sounds like a good idea too! :goodidea:
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I understood from Bonjoy that he would organise a collective re bolting trip down to the Cornice. I havent heard anything recently.
Glad it seems to be drying off OK and I wouldnt worry about the grey stuff too much as it goes very quickly after a working session. The barometer for a dry season is often the seapage around the hole on Eclipsed, I wonder what that is like?
I've a meeting with BMC and Derbyshire Wildlife Trust next week. Hopefully this will get us permission to go ahead with the blessing of all involved. Glad to hear you're still keen.
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Out of interest does anyone know who rebolted Disillusioned?.
Big Dave H. from leicester did it. I think he also put the bolt in Free Monster.
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Had a quick look at the Cornice today:
Routes left of the Weakling all looked dry, Yorkshire 8b and Zippys routes.
The rest of the routes were hampered by seepage from the mid height roof although generally things looked encouraging.
I was surprised to see that the crag was fully visible from a long way off and that you could see the hoards of people on the other bank.
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Now then not dan varian - I need to finish free monster too, so am keen to come down with you. Will PM my number.
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dobbin are you getting confused? I think Dan posted last year.
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dammit! damn you and your eyes! Its this cold. Doesnt bode well for the Masonators introduction to the tor tomorrow does it?
Ah yes Dave, this is a great little route - A little Extra its called (pulling on to hooligan), gadzoooks man, its gotten much harder - something must have fallen off...
And, that explains why Not_Dan_Varian was confused when I quizzed him about it at the Foundry. These Stimulant decongestants are clearly stronger than I thought....
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OK confused and hopeful now. Is Free Monster dry?
Any answers (OK not any, accurate) before about 11am tomorrow much appreciated.
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very unlikely Joe......Malham is though! :)
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Had a quick look at the Cornice today:
Routes left of the Weakling all looked dry, Yorkshire 8b and Zippys routes.
The rest of the routes were hampered by seepage from the mid height roof although generally things looked encouraging.
I was surprised to see that the crag was fully visible from a long way off and that you could see the hoards of people on the other bank.
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Yesterday: brachiation dance wet from middle bit, freemonster dry but damp in backs of some holds, albatrossity and monsterocity both had peeps on but both had wet bits. Apparantly had got wetter than it was mid-week, presumably the rain from friday eve coming through quickly..
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yesterday - BD pretty dry, free monster bone, disillusioned had a wet hold in the middle, but otherwise dry.
Has anyone done dole 89?
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I did it when it was 7a+, but not since the hold broke. Soz
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Havent both of those routes kind of merged into a new line that zippy bolted? which is about 7a/+ ish?
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I suspect we were forging brave new ground last night then, as the climbing was at least 8b, probably 9b and had no bolts in. so at least E26 then. Sonny trotter has already bought his train tickets.
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Anyone up for an afternoon session down there tomorrow?
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In case anyone was curious I checked the crag out with Keith Sharples on Saturday (19th July). Ape Index, Yorkshire 8b and left dry but the rest of the crag ie the bits that count were drenched. Keith reckoned 2 weeks of dry weather required to get back into condition.
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The fixed draws all still in?
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In case anyone was curious I checked the crag out with Keith Sharples on Saturday (19th July). Ape Index, Yorkshire 8b and left dry but the rest of the crag ie the bits that count were drenched. Keith reckoned 2 weeks of dry weather required to get back into condition.
2 weeks! A week last Saturday it looked sodden on arrival, but both Free Monster and Rumble were climbed that day and you could see the crag drying before your eyes. Not disputing Keith's knowledge of the crag, but I bet it's dry quicker than that, especially with the warm weather forecast for this week.
P.S. Simon - are you just looking for excuses ;)
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Can someone go tonight please and find out? ;)
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2 weeks! A week last Saturday it looked sodden on arrival, but both Free Monster and Rumble were climbed that day and you could see the crag drying before your eyes. Not disputing Keith's knowledge of the crag, but I bet it's dry quicker than that, especially with the warm weather forecast for this week.
There has been a lot of rain out there in the last week, as discussed on the Rubicon thread.
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2 weeks! A week last Saturday it looked sodden on arrival, but both Free Monster and Rumble were climbed that day and you could see the crag drying before your eyes. Not disputing Keith's knowledge of the crag, but I bet it's dry quicker than that, especially with the warm weather forecast for this week.
There has been a lot of rain out there in the last week, as discussed on the Rubicon thread.
OK, but the Tor is still boner and I'm sure someone was talking about the seepage pecularities of The Cornice WCJ and that it seemed to come through pretty quickly...
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yesterday - BD pretty dry, free monster bone, disillusioned had a wet hold in the middle, but otherwise dry.
Has anyone done dole 89?
Ben Pritch did it when we were there the other weekend. He found it 7b+ and pumpy, rather than powerful. Not really like the other Cornice routes. A worthwhile outing.
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Keith Sharples went to check it out last Sunday and said it was absolutely sodden and fully seeping. he thought it would be a month until it was OK again. He was not happy.
He's also probably climbed teher more than anybody so I think it's an accurate estimation.
Let's hope he's wrong.
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Saturday and Sunday, just to make sure? ;)
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if its takes a month to dry, then how was it dry in the first place, given we've probably not had a week without rain this year so far? crazy shit.
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Time to get the crystal ball out again dave.
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my crystal ball says the cornice is shit. don't shoot the messenger.
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Standing under there on Sunday evening was like standing in a rain shower. continuous heavy dripping almost all the way along.
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Everything was damp tonight annoyingly.
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Looking fairly dry today. We did the Thatcher Years which was a bit dusty and Brachiation which was pretty much dry (I'm sure if you tried hard enough you could have found some wet holds but the holds used on the route were essentialy dry). Pulled a massive undercut off the top of Thatcher Years, which was pretty exciting! Free Monster looked OK but there were some major seepage systems in action in the centre of the crag.
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Went on Saturday and most stuff looked dry. People on Thatcher Years, Brachiation Dance, Albatrossity and The Weakling.
Pulled a massive undercut off the top of Thatcher Years, which was pretty exciting!
Was that on the lip of the top overlap? I saw an obvious looking scar there... I pulled off a big sidepull lower down, between the first and second bolts, but it doesn't make any difference.
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Pulled a massive undercut off the top of Thatcher Years, which was pretty exciting!
Was that on the lip of the top overlap? I saw an obvious looking scar there...
Yes, I was trying to make the top move easier but the undercut had obviously never been pulled on before in anger.... Makes no odds, it was not the way this move is normally done I don't think.
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Went and had a look this morning. Seepage across most of the crag from the recent rain unfortunately.
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Crag was seeping on Sunday.
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Anyone been over the last week or so?
Thinking of paying a visit on Saturday/Sunday... :-\
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The cornice was soaking wet and a sack of shit on sunday.
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Pretty good last night. Wet hold/patch in middle of BD, but still climbable. Free monster in good nic. Those amazing sweeping roof things right again all ok, disillusioned - filthy dirt machine.
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Most stuff wet today, really wet. FM wet. As are the routes to the right with the insitu draws in. BD very wet too.
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Pretty good last night. Wet hold/patch in middle of BD, but still climbable. Free monster in good nic. Those amazing sweeping roof things right again all ok, disillusioned - filthy dirt machine.
Big wet monster more like....
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Pretty good last night. Wet hold/patch in middle of BD, but still climbable. Free monster in good nic. Those amazing sweeping roof things right again all ok, disillusioned - filthy dirt machine.
Big wet monster more like....
As the song goes. 'What a difference a day makes' ::)
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They knew the lancs lads were coming and diverted a local stream dowm the back of the crag me thinks!
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Not bad tonight considering the heat of today.....
Bit of moisture still on Freemonster and routes to the right, plus stuff needs a clean up once or before its dry.
Suspiciousy no midgeys either......with nil breeze????? Got slimey late on as it started to condense out a bit
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Really good this evening, everything left of free monster dry and stuff to the right did not look too bad but i did not pull on any. No midges and we were there from late till pitch black. the guide mentions massive spans on alot of the routes, are they that bad?
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I think theres ways around them mate. Famously theres a great big dyno at the end of rumble in the jungle (is that right cornice afficionados?), but shorties have done it, and Clifford found some heinous undercut to pull on to avoid it altogether.
Good that we get to go there again to be honest. It was hopeless the last two years.
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I've never had a reach issue on the routes I've done there. By far the best of these was Albatrocity, which you'd expect to be mega reachy from the name, but it's actually fine, a big (pretty steady, not the crux) move but well within most peoples reach.
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I think theres ways around them mate. Famously theres a great big dyno at the end of rumble in the jungle (is that right cornice afficionados?), but shorties have done it, and Clifford found some heinous undercut to pull on to avoid it altogether.
Good that we get to go there again to be honest. It was hopeless the last two years.
Dobbin is correct, Rumble in the Jungle has a leap of excellent quality at the end of the crux traverse......RP Crux, and one of the best moves on Peak Lime!
P.s. - You keen for weds evening Dobbin? Should be heading there for 5-5:30ish, maybe earlier....
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Oooh! may well be. Me and Dylog going to be out, waiting for confirmation from Edlog but poss see you there. Think it will be allright then?
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Piss wet through Wednesday evening, middle section running with water and dripping. :thumbsdown:
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You guys wanna get dwon two tier, great nick last night even if the wade was a bit spicier than usual.
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Thats good to know... (It was Brian's idea for the cornice)
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I had a look at the WCJ cornice this afternoon. It was surprisingly dry! Monsterosity and everything to the left looked dry from the ground....
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Not bad nick at all on Saturday down there, all routes left of BD completely dry, quite a bit of random bits of seepage through the middle section. All the holds on Albatrossity really good, with a couple of exceptions, but nothing major. Rumble had some wet patches at the first break but from there on up looked good.
Nice sesh away from the crowds and heat!
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Was down there a couple of days back and all looking pretty dry. Was only on the 7a+ on the left and BD, but they were both dry and in reasonable nick (except for a couple of wet/dirty jugs on BD). Still a couple of wet streaks low down affecting one or two routes, but most stuff looking dry. Enjoy!
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Any more updates on cons here (dirtiness, as well as dryness!)? Specifically stuff right of Free Monster .. Rumble etc. Ta
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BD is almost completely dry now!
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Everything appears to be still ok after all the rain, BD is absolutely fine. A party on Albatrocity reported a few mildly spoogey holds but it wasn't stopping them.
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Didn't walk down myself but the beasties I bumped into at Rubicon reported it to be gopping.
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Anyone know if Free monster is in condition?
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Whole crag was bone dry yesterday
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Was down there today, with JC and still absolutely bone. Path a little greasy, but no evidence of recent rain on crag.
Jon bolted and cleaned his link-up project, from Albatrossity to Barbarossity,
while I cleaned Goldcrest to top roof. Only The Nasty Man (which looks excellent btw)
Empire, Atilla and Sirius to refurbish and bingo - job's a good 'un!
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Jon mentioned that the crucial crimp rail on the Weakling appears to have come off and the route may now be unclimbable. Probably worth sticking back on if anyone has the hold in their possesion (no sign of it beneath the route). Anyone? :shrug:
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I think Sam pulled it off so he might have it.
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>:(Minging today - practically running with condensation.
"What a difference a day makes
24 little hours".
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Anyone been since the 10th? Is it in condition?
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Most stuff fine on Sunday apart from seepage on Monsterosity & Albatrossity.
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There yesterday and pretty dry - some seepage on jugs in the middle of Brachiation Dance and on Albatrossity but Free Monster totally dry. Fingers crossed for the end of the week!
Al
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has anyone been down yet this year, if so, hows it looking?
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has anyone been down yet this year, if so, hows it looking?
I have to say it always looks good!!
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has anyone been down yet this year, if so, hows it looking?
I have to say it always looks good!!
Simon, get your arse back on rock!
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Thinking of heading down tomorrow, does anyone know if the crimp rail is back on the weakling, was thinking of trying it.
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Anyone been down recently and know what state it's in?
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I walked down the dale a couple of times over Easter. There was a bit of damp under Zeke/Bastard bulge. That's it. Everything else I could see was bone dry inc Moat and Central buttresses. Looked from across the river, but Cornice appeared dry. The whole dale is I think.
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I'm not that clued up on places, but if its 'the cornice' near Rubicon, then... when i was walking back from Rubicon I bumped into a couple of gents crossing over from the other side of the valley with ropes/clpisticks etc.. one who was beaming having done his first 8a... and they said 'the cornice was in great condition'.... I'm not sure if that helps or not!
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same dale, same cornice.
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and they said 'the cornice was in great condition'.... I'm not sure if that helps or not!
Thanks Tom. Sounds promising to me, unless of course it's code for something else.........
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Very good apparently, bumped into a mate today who did Glue Machine last month, he said most things including Free Monster, Brachiation etc were dry. Only wetness on the extremities I think he said.
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Been there tonight and last night. Preternaturally dry. Backs of the pockets and everything.
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and they said 'the cornice was in great condition'.... I'm not sure if that helps or not!
Thanks Tom. Sounds promising to me, unless of course it's code for something else.........
Free Monster Chris.......Free Monster ;)
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All dry as of 7pm ish today. I'm amazed that we only bumped into two people who were walking out. I gained a foothold from Free Monster from said meeting and will endeavour to stick it back on when things dry out a bit. LF hold between 1st and 2nd bolt although there are plenty of methods to completely avoid it? Coincidentally someone commented that the jug on rumble was rocking, can anyone confirm this?
The upper roof's of Rumble/Auctioneer/Monsterosity etc. had some worrying looking dark patches by the end of the day but that's about it.
Holds at the top of Free Monster etc. stayed dry enough until around 3pm then from then on the wings started to suffer from runoff i.e. Incapacity benefit, Disilussioned.
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The jug on rumble was a bit wobbly when I did it (about a month ago). If you're going to be there with some glue it could be worth a look...
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That would be me that broke the hold on Free Monster, apologies. Its still do-able without it but I personally found it a bit harder and not as nice and judging by the amount of boot rubber on this hold I'd assume a lot of other people use it as well. Thanks a lot for offering to put it back on Paul, I was thinking of trying Rumble as well at some point so if you want any help with gluing I'd be up for helping out if you need it. I've not got many free weekends but lots of free evenings. Cheers.
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Anyone been since Sunday? Will it be dry tomorrow :-\ ?
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I'd like to know too before I drive 200 miles, update please?
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When are you heading down Dave? Unless I hear negative reports I will risk a trip tomorrow (its only 20 odd miles for me!) evening and can let you know what its like. Anything in particular your keen on?
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I was keen for Rumble, at WCJ. Think we might start at Plum as getting down afternoon-ish.
Any update would be great!
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I was keen for Rumble, at WCJ. Think we might start at Plum as getting down afternoon-ish.
Any update would be great!
Tonight conditions were fine until the end of the evening then things rapidly turned greasy.
Nothing was obviously affected by runoff/seepage (although anything with Cornice gloop was a little damp). However, when we left it started raining very HARD and continued to do so until we were back in Sheffield.
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Drier tonight.
For anyone on the Auctioneer N.B. the foothold used for/after crossing the last roof (the signature Auctioneer moves) are crumbling badly. A fairly decent sized lump broke off tonight (and landed pretty close to the belayer on FM) and the central foothold (used after the crux) is captive but loose and I don't think it'll take much before this crumbles further, supposedly there was a heel toe here in past years, this has also gone. The bit I knocked off broke into crap on the floor.
I'll add this to the list of glue-jobs needed down here but I'd be grateful if people were careful and informed anyone trying the route.
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I feel like I'm talking to myself here but anyway I glued up a few things today:
Foothold on Free Monster (if this comes off I suggest it gets thrown in the river)
Auctioneer,
and the jug on Rumble, this was (and still could be) a nasty surprise waiting for someone as the glue/sika had fractured around the whole hold. I did my best to secure it but without it ripping off and being glued fully it could deteriorate again.
If anyone encounters a greasy residue on any of the glue-jobs, sorry, its the nature of the resin and will disappear in a while.
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I feel like I'm talking to myself here but anyway I glued up a few things today:
Foothold on Free Monster (if this comes off I suggest it gets thrown in the river)
Auctioneer,
and the jug on Rumble, this was (and still could be) a nasty surprise waiting for someone as the glue/sika had fractured around the whole hold. I did my best to secure it but without it ripping off and being glued fully it could deteriorate again.
If anyone encounters a greasy residue on any of the glue-jobs, sorry, its the nature of the resin and will disappear in a while.
Will they be at fulll strength tomorrow? Especially the Rumble jug
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yes, 3 mins to gel, 60 minutes to full load (@ 20'c)...
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Nice one Paul. :clap2: If I can persuade someone to belay me I'll get on FM one evening this week.
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Just been down, everything still looks dry, but pretty greasy!
Thanks for gluing the jug on Rumble, unfortunately looks like the glue has not gone off right... It's still very soft, like paste and still wet...
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ah shit, it went off ok on the other two (and my test pebbles at ground level). Apologies if this causes anyone an inconvenience. Someone else who's heading there tomorrow said he'll take a look and try and remove any gloop.
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On the glue note, sorry but pulled the first good crimp of eclipsed today. Its the one level with the bolt stub on the proj to left. Don't know if this changes the difficulty much and is worth sticking back on. Hold is sitting below coated in chalk.
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All dry this evening but conditions not that great. Plus its dark by 9pm now :wavecry: Getting towards the end of summer evening sessions for me at least.
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ah shit, it went off ok on the other two (and my test pebbles at ground level). Apologies if this causes anyone an inconvenience. Someone else who's heading there tomorrow said he'll take a look and try and remove any gloop.
not sure if this is the case here but ive noticed(after an initial error!) that although the first small test blob is mixed there follows a suprisingly large spurt of unmixed, maybe a full nozzles worth, before the True mixing starts. something to be aware of, particulary when bolting as i was. :offtopic:
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I was told that it was only some gloop in the back of the hold that hadn't hardened and that the edge seal was all fine and dandy. Everything I took home in the bag I squeezed the first parts out into ha gone rock solid. The stuff in question (Fishers styrene free resin), seems to leave a nasty greasy residue all over to start with.
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Anyone been to wcj cornice recently, and can report on the crag conditions?
Cheers John
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Wandered past about an hour ago. All looked bone to me, though I wasn't climbing.
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Has anyone been to the Cornice at Water Cum Jolly in the last couple of days?? Was wondering whether its dry around brachiation dance??
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Not been since the 30th, but it was bone dry. I wouldn't expect any condensation today so it should be okay.
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Ok great will head down there and check it out today cheers
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Anyone know how its looking here?
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Had a look yesterday, not looking too bad, the left and right sides mostly dry with a few damp patches. Central section is wet with dry streaks. Fingers crossed and it'll be dry soon
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Any news on how this is doing?
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Is will be soaked at the minute. And need a good dry spell to dry out so might not be dry for a while!
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Any news on if Free Monster is in condition at the moment?
cheers
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I checked here tonight after a session on Moat buttress.
Unfortunately its not dry and didn't look great. The first break was a gopping black streak and the upper roofs were saturated and dripping.
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Hi Paul,
Thanks for update. Fingers crossed for a long dry spell.
Cheers
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The current windless, hot, high pressure is classic condensation weather. Everything steep which doesn’t catch much sun or breeze is likely to be in terrible nick, regardless of rain volumes, or the underlying level of seepage. On the upside it is the sort of bad nick that one cool breezy day will cure.
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I must be more pessimistic than I realise if that's going to dry out after one day of good conditions... ;)
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I didn't say it was dry under the condensation. Haven’t been on the lime for weeks.
Bear in mind though that apparently dry crags often have a low level of seepage which evaporates before it causes problems in good drying weather. When humidity is up it doesn't evaporate and appears worse than it is.
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Anyone had a look in the last day or so?
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will have a look today as going to the moat.
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Ace, cheers! Do you think you could have a look at the auctioneer?
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sorry hadnt seen the comment!
it was getting there. some small seepge lines on brachiation. free monster looked okish and the routes to the right were getting there.
give it a few days then head down i would say, although things can always be dried!
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Any news on conditions?
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Will be utterly fucked i imagine after last couple of days.
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Anyone had a look in the last couple of days?
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Brach is still climbable, although Guy would probs disagree that it was 'dry'.
Free monster on the other hand is probably swaying towards being too wet. Basically all the good holds are wet early on, so you cant dry your hands for the crux (which is dry).
Also how high above the insitu draws are you supposed to go on free monster, and where exactly?
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From memory. It finishes about same height as BD. so your hands are over the lip but not feet. The finish was maybe a short persons span to the right of BD. remember it being a good hold - fairly obvious I thought.
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I couldn't find any good holds haha! Just some slopey flakes. Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough......
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It finishes about same height as BD. so your hands are over the lip but not feet...
Hang on! Whenever I've done Brachiation Dance (first time back in the late 80's, other time about 6 years ago) I've pulled over the finishing roof - not easy - scrambled up the slope above and abbed off a tree.
Isn't that what everyone does....?
Neil
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You abbed off a tree! I dug me heels in and brought up my second then spent the night with our feet in the rucksack cuddling each other.
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Rucsack ?
Luxury
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Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough......
should've used a better headtorch
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It finishes about same height as BD. so your hands are over the lip but not feet...
Hang on! Whenever I've done Brachiation Dance (first time back in the late 80's, other time about 6 years ago) I've pulled over the finishing roof - not easy - scrambled up the slope above and abbed off a tree.
Isn't that what everyone does....?
Neil
Are you confusing it with Bramble Dance?
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According to a mate both Moat Buttress and Crunch Buttress are dry as of Wednesday evening.
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The key pre crux holds on Free Monster are now dry. A few of the holds in the break below are damp, but it's climbable without using them.
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All looking fairly dry now.
Brachiation Dance had 3 ascents last night.
A mate was on Rumble. He was moaning about it being hard rather than wet or dirty.
Albatrossity should be doable after a clean...
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Yeah rumble is pretty dry apart from some dampish pockets before the dyno, a few days it should all be good.
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Was down this afternoon. The big pocket below the 3rd clip on Free Monster was a bit damp but could be dried with a towel, rest was fine.
The 7a+ at the left was fine.
Brachiation Dance looked well chalked and dry but didn't actually go on it.
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Ethan said all dry today
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Lots of wetness today. Big wet patches on pretty much every route. The first break was wet all along the crag and there were drops pouring from the tops of most routes.
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Does anyone know if things have dried out again here after the good weather?
Cheers
Matt
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Heard rumours that this is fairing better than Chee dale cornice. Anyone confirm?
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Went down yesterday and can confirm it is fairing better the Chee cornice, as in there are some sections of dry rock! However, every route is seeping badly in its bottom half and none seemed climbable.
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I don't want to jinx anything here but it's starting to look climbable again. My mate cleaned Brachiation and it was climbable even if a couple of holds were damp.
The jug above the 2nd bolt of Free Monster was seeping and the 3 finger pocket was a bit damp but other than that it was all dry.
Fingers crossed the dry spell continues.......
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Anymore for anymore recently?
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Moat buttress was bone dry yesterday, so I expect the Cornice is good too.
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Moat Buttress is generally a dry crag anyway. It is often dry in the winter so will have no bearing on how dry the Cornice will be.
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I see. Are Drawbridge and Excalibur climbable with current fixed gear KC? Thanks.
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Excalibur has a collection of rust and could be retro-bolted with out to much fuss but the rock looks poor above and the start is perhaps borderline too muddy. No Mud No Thud is better I think.
You will need to send in the Lancaster bombers before getting on Drawbridge or construct something. The bolts are crap too.
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Will give that a miss then. No Mud and a Bigger Thud definitely on the list tho. Thanks.
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Walked past today. Crag looking largely dry, just a few dark patches at big pockets in the breaks, but Brachiation Dance is all dry and the damp big pocket on Free Monster looked at least as dry as when it was being done a couple of months ago.
:)
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After yesterday's down pour reckon moat buttress and the cornice will have survived.... Cheers...
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Your problem might be condensation. E.g. The Tor was exceedingly condensed yesterday evening.
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moat will likely be fine, ive climbed there when there have been very few dry crags in the peak.
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Cheers guys. Moat it is... Got stuff there I need to finish anyway... Can always sack it to stoney....
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Cornice was utterly gopping today :( >:(
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Was down at moat buttress today and took a wander over to the cornice, the left end was looking promising. Brachiation was looking fairly dry and I'd say climbable and probably the weakling and routes nearby. Most routes further right had wet patches but looked like they might dry again if it stays dry for a week or two? The right hand end may be climbable.
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anyone been down recently?
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Anyone been past here recently?
Sent from my Lumia 710 using Tapatalk
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Went down there today, not looking too bad. Most routes still have the odd wet hold. Brachiation dance climbable though a couple of wet jugs father the start crux. Also had a look at Yorkshire 8b but the jug just before the crux soaked the rest dry but dusty. Rumble in the jungle looked not far off being dry. Right of this was still pretty slimey .
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Don't worry, the rain over the next few days should see it dripping wet again.
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Anyone been down?
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Popped down for a look* last night:
Left hand end looked very dry.
Middle section (Brachiation / Free Monster) and rightwards looked largely dry with a few damp looking pockets.
* from the ground, I didn't actually get on anything.
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Thanks a lot Chris. Have a wad point
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Spoke to some people who climbed thatcher and BD yesterday. Both dry enough to climb but not completely dry. Dirty as well, obviously.
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Set to belt it down Saturday as well so maybe not... If I do go I'll take a big brush then cheers
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http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcqwzyct8#?tab=fiveDay&fcTime=1403910000 (http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcqwzyct8#?tab=fiveDay&fcTime=1403910000)
really?
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We'll that's a better prediction than my phone app.... Excellent
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cleaned oujiboard , unleashing the wild physic, cosmopolitan and Further Adventures in Greendale. the left hand side still needs time to dry
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Are you not on the wrong cornice.
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Oops
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Bottom break above the slab a hit damp in places but other than that bone dry! When we where there a guy on the other side of the river started yelling that we where trespassing on a SSSI without the landowners permission. I'd like to say we (4 of us) stayed calm but he was pretty annoyed. He started taking photos on his phone of us taking our gear back down! My guide says as long as you stay to the correct approaches that access is acceptable. Anyone have any info?
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Bottom break above the slab a hit damp in places but other than that bone dry! When we where there a guy on the other side of the river started yelling that we where trespassing on a SSSI without the landowners permission. I'd like to say we (4 of us) stayed calm but he was pretty annoyed. He started taking photos on his phone of us taking our gear back down! My guide says as long as you stay to the correct approaches that access is acceptable. Anyone have any info?
Likely to be a member of Derbyshire Wildlife. Worth letting Rob Dyer at the BMC know about this incident robd@thebmc.co.uk Forewarned is forearmed.
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I'll send him an email now
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Very unlikely to be The Wildlife Trust. They do not own the crags on that side. There are one or two very disgruntled fishing club wardens/members that shout at climbers whether at that crag or Moat on a regular basis.
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We thought he was a fisherman... Another guy climbing asked who he was representing but the man didn't answer....
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Just emailed rob. Hopefully it's just an angler trying to scare us off... Cos it dry and I wanna go back....
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Is free monster looking dry Mason?
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That's what we where on. Bottom Break slightly moist and the pocket at the start of the crux slightly smeggy. Bone dry otherwise..
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Plus we moved all the spiders....
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Spiders removed from a pocket on Brachiation Dance also.
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Awsome cheers. I hate spiders.
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That's what we where on. Bottom Break slightly moist and the pocket at the start of the crux slightly smeggy. Bone dry otherwise..
Great thanks
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Very unlikely to be The Wildlife Trust. They do not own the crags on that side. There are one or two very disgruntled fishing club wardens/members that shout at climbers whether at that crag or Moat on a regular basis.
Some of the trees under moat buttress have had their bark stripped off low down. Fairly recently. Whether its kids playing, climbers, whoever it looks pretty unsightly and damaging to the trees there. Just thought i'd mention it.
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And at Rubicon
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Some of the trees under moat buttress have had their bark stripped off low down. Fairly recently. Whether its kids playing, climbers, whoever it looks pretty unsightly and damaging to the trees there. Just thought i'd mention it.
I haven't seen this, nor do I know a lot about wildlife but I believe Moat was a little sensitive/of interest because it was popular with Otters (unless I dreamed this up), could that be the cause? I've had a brief google but didn't get far.
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Got told today that a water bailiff? has also been haranguing climbers on the other side on the Inch Test
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Otters are present up a different dale.
One of the many arguments against climbers being there or anywhere upstream is that Otters may wish to use it as a breading site. Whether that is a valid point I don't Know. Apparently they seem to get on quite well in the other location that far more public.
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Anybody know about the new (pointless so i'm told) belay between the top of Free Monster and BD?
There are four new routes left of Thatcher Years with what looks like a mix of galvanized mild steel bolts and hangers.
Without studying a reliable guide I can't make out whether they are new lines or straightened out trad retroed.
This has nothing to do with GG Simon, i've already asked.
There is no issue on my part about the ethics of this in particular, it's the use of crap gear that is.
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For those interested it was all perfectly dry last night. Seems to be holding up quite well.
There is indeed now a belay between BD & FM, using it would involve pointlessly trashing your rope over the edge of the top roof so we just used the last 2 bolts as usual. No idea what the intention was for the belay but it seems pretty useless.
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All dry today.
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Anyone know what it's like at the moment, looking to come up on Sunday but don't really fancy the tor or kudos wall. Chee dale cornice conditions
?
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Chee Cornice was still damp last Saturday. Unleashing right was dry. Powerplant was getting there as was the middle bunch of 7s. Left hand side a waterfall. Nook a bit manky too, but a couple of dry routes. Rest of the looked pretty good.
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I'm guessing no but anybody know the state of the WCJ cornice? Most interested in Rumble. Will try and take a look myself this weekend if not, just considering my options for an evening hit.
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I'm guessing no but anybody know the state of the WCJ cornice? Most interested in Rumble. Will try and take a look myself this weekend if not, just considering my options for an evening hit.
you probably will anyway but could you look at free monster too if you happen to be there on the weekend? Really enjoyed the evening sessions here a few years back.
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I'd also be keen to know conditions on Rumble. After a break from roped climbing the excellent video of Ethan et al on the WCJ cornice routes got me psyched again!
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I'm guessing no but anybody know the state of the WCJ cornice? Most interested in Rumble. Will try and take a look myself this weekend if not, just considering my options for an evening hit.
you probably will anyway but could you look at free monster too if you happen to be there on the weekend? Really enjoyed the evening sessions here a few years back.
Of course I'll have a look, I'm hoping we must be close now. It's a quality crag, agreed, hope we get a good season.
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It was surprisingly dry tonight. Left of BD looked all dry, BD and free monster had 1 small wet patch each but definitely workable. Auctioneer a bit wet, Rumble dry (slightly spoogy in the odd pocket) and things that break right from it also looked good. Stuff further right generally with some bigger wet patches. Photos on the Facebook group.
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Pretty good tonight. BD looked dry, Free Monster dry (1 damp pocket apparently), Auctioneer wet in the middle, Rumble looked dry, Monsterosity dry. Some wet patches on the sides but plenty dry too.
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Anyone been recently?
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Dry on the left with the odd muddy ledge, brachiation has maybe one or two wet holds but looks climbable. Rumble in the jungle looks pretty dry and free monster almost dry. Various streaks on most routes right of these but with a three or four good dry days it should all be climbable.
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How will it have reacted to the deluge of the last 24 hours? Brachiation dry in a few days perhaps?
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Brachiation on holds are quite good, you can climb it with some wet sections.
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Brachiation on holds are quite good, you can climb it with some wet sections.
Sounds promising, guess its been bone dry for a week or so which might hold the seepage at bay this time? Never been=no clue!
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The holds are mostly large and positive (except initial wall which is fingery but will be dry). It's just very steep :) The crux holds at the top are a bit smaller but still positive. You've got nothing to lose and it's a corking route.
A couple of hundred yards to its left is Moat Buttress with good routes in that grade and a permadry section under the big roof there. WCJ is ace.
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Brilliant, cheers! Better get down there...
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FWIW, Brachiation was almost all dry apart from a juggy dirty bit at half height, which was totally filthy. Not sure how clean it ever gets but it was definitely suboptimal yesterday, hard to not get wet and dirty feet! A good brush with a stiff bristled brush might get it a lot better though as it seemed to be alive rather than just water.
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Any updates from the weekend? Thanks.
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Any updates from the weekend? Thanks.
As of Saturday morning, similar to the last time we were there but a little drier. BD looked a fair bit drier, FM still clearly wet at the jugs after the slab (probably the crux pocket too, you can never tell from the floor).
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Thanks Alister. Will probably wait until it dries a bit more before returning. Was it dry enough for you to get rumble?!
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I think FM's probably OK. I belayed a friend on it Wednesday last week, one of the jug pockets after the slab was very wet but the other one was dry so you didn't need it and the pocket was fine but a bit smeggy. He ticked the route anyway.
Rumble was dry enough
Auctioneer still wet unfortunately
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I was on FM on Thursday. All dry except for big jug after the slab, which is easily done without. Pocket was nice and dry.
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Ah great news, thanks for the updates guys. Now just have have to get a partner to FM Thurs evening!
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Was on FM on monday, jugs soaked and everything felt smeggy.
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Most routes dry, was on Brachiation Dance last night and it seemed dry bar the one greasy hold to the flakey roof section. To the right were teams on Albatross. The Free Monster was also well chalked.
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Any updates on routes since Saturday or Sunday? Thanks.
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All dry, if not slightly dusty in the less popular places as of Sunday Afternoon.
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Thanks.
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Tightened up the loose lower off on Incapacity Benefit yesterday.
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good on you
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Anyone know how easily the pocket on Free Monster seeps? Will it still hold out after a 3 day deluge? Crag's been pretty dry recently....
Thanks!
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Anyone been after/ during the deluge this weekend??
If not any predictions for this week? Was surprised how OK the Cheedale Cornice was today (Sunday) so wondering whether to be optimistic about the WCJ one??
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Mates were all there today with no complaints. On Free Monster, Incapacity, the 8a+.
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Waddage! Cheers
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Anyone been since the rains came? Asking for a friend obvs. He's due out of jail next week.
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Tell you friend the grit was good today. You'd of thought someone just out of jail would want to get on the good shit.
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Wcj cornice looked pretty dry aas far as I could see from the other side of the river, noticed a few damp spots here and there but looks like there is stuf to go at.
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Had a look in this afternoon; Free Monster didn't look TOO bad, Rumble looked OKish but apparently felt fairly damp in places.Fair bit of wet around other than that :(
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Dole, yorkshire 8b, ape index, braciasion, rumble, barbarosity and albatrosity are all clean now. Free monster is dirty still. Someone needs to get down and clean it up!!
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Nice work. It's usually the other way round, Free Monster clean and everything else filthy (except BD obvs)!
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Free monster can now be added to the list. The cornice was really popular yesterday over 10 people down there. Mirf also cleaned up a 7c+ on the far right not sure what its called though. Tis the season of the wcj cornice this year!
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:goodidea: empire burlesque hard 7c+ Is climbable . I'm going to put another bolt in the lower off and attempt to remove the rotting rusty things. It's a good route
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The weakling is now cleaned up too
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The weakling is now cleaned up too
What's it like then? The description is quite ominous...
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I enjoyed it. I thought it was 2 stars maybe 8a but it was bad conditions when i was on it. Also I've not actually done it yet!
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I've got a beta drawing of it I drew in 1994, fell off the last move 6 times still need to get it sent! Glad you think it's hard for the grade :slap:
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It's hard for the grade but that doesn't make it 8a. I'm sure there'll be an old thread of mine on here somewhere when I first got on it.
2 stars on a local scale perhaps.
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Did it today its just 7c+. Was bad connies the other night.
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Been today: no condensation but a lot of seepage coming out of the main break on brachiation dance. Pocket seeping on free monster but manageable with lots of tissue, otherwise dry. Other routes looked similar.
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Braciation dance, free monster, rumble in the jungle, disillusioned glue machine, empire burlesque, gold crest, all cleaned and climbed now. Gonna clean up monstrosity on Friday
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Braciation dance, free monster, rumble in the jungle, disillusioned glue machine, empire burlesque, gold crest, all cleaned and climbed now. Gonna clean up monstrosity on Friday
Nice one, heading there for the first time this week. psyched
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Braciation dance, free monster, rumble in the jungle, disillusioned glue machine, empire burlesque, gold crest, all cleaned and climbed now. Gonna clean up monstrosity on Friday
Nice one, heading there for the first time this week. psyched
Enjoy, it's a real gem
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Pretty dry today. Pocket on free monster damp but useable and left section of break on disillusioned glue machine wet. Found half the (previously glued) good edge from the section by the 4th bolt on DGM on the floor by the start. Have left with some finger tape on it on the first jugs if any one wants to glue back on (it'll be a while before I'm back up there). Moves felt hard without it.
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Anyone know how free monster is doing? Cheers
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Anyone know how free monster is doing? Cheers
Being reduced to 7c+ by not being topped out. Probably.
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Anyone know how free monster is doing? Cheers
by not being topped out
And then?
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Freemonster pocket into the first crux was wet tonight, but overall the crag was in good nick.
The second hanger on Empire Burlesque came off with the nut flying off down the hill, so if anyone has a nut they could put on it that would be great (I'm not going to get back down there for a while). It was all dry though. :)
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If anyone is down tomorrow or Sunday I'd be interested to know if The Auctioneer is dry and whether it's had any traffico. Ta.