UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: roblaird on November 10, 2015, 03:53:23 pm
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I've been experimenting with max hangs and was wondering how much weight people go up to before making the holds more difficult?
And how do you add the weight? I have been using a rucsac, but that's not great once you add more weight...
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50-75% of bodyweight for me.
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50% body weight roughly but that's 40kg+.
Any more than that is just painful and I'm pretty sure it's a bad idea even if you can distribute the weight evenly.
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I don't have a rule. But ~60% is the most I've added. I recommend a harness over a rucsac, or a combo of both.
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The most I've added is 125lbs, which I split between a harness and a rucksack, and the harness weight split front and back of the harness.
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What are your views on weights vests?
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positive :)
I just haven't purchased one yet. It's on my list.
I started off using text books and milks jugs filled with sand and water. Used a scale to figure out the weight of each and went from there. I've slowly built up different weights, but definitely don't have ideal weights.
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Yeah, at the moment I'm using a combination of a rucsac with weights and a scuba diving weight belt...
A weight vest should make things easier!
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Rather than making the holds more difficult and adding more weight it might be better to try focussing on how you are actually holding them in the first place.
For instance lets say you can hold a 10mm edge 4 fingers half crimped for about 7 seconds until your little finger goes straight rather than being crimped up. Drop the weight till you can maintain the proper half crimped position with all of your fingers for a full 10 seconds then increase the weight gradually without loosing the form or altering the time.
Similarly on a sub 5mm edge you possibly won't have to add weight just focus on getting to 10 seconds good form stopping as soon as you loose the grip position.
I think people put too much emphasis on dangling from edges in a manner which won't translate well to climbing thinking as long as they've got a ton of weight hanging from them its working.
This post is not intended to teach people how to suck eggs I'm interested in what others think of this idea.
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I agree. Failure for me is not when I let go of the hold, but when I lose form. Sometimes my shoulders drop first, sometimes fingers, sometimes biceps, etc.
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For me just under 30% (21kilos), and that's on a good flat 1st joint edge (12mm I think)
Personally I dont understand how people manage to do 60% etc!, unless they're hanging off jugs? Maybe im just pathetic!
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I'm a bit unsure on the whole weighted max hangs thing. Wouldn't it be better to do one-arm work even if it required a pulley theraband to take weight off or whatever, that way as well you'd be building up the shoulder stability required to hand onehanded, which then surely has more benefit in the real world, you know, big throw for a hold, hit it, feet swing off, usually you need the shoulder stability to hang those holds more than you need the static finger strength? You could spend years doing weighted hangs with your entire family hanging on your back as additional weight, but still never be able to do a decent one-arm hang of a generous edge.
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I'm a bit unsure on the whole weighted max hangs thing. Wouldn't it be better to do one-arm work even if it required a pulley theraband to take weight off or whatever, that way as well you'd be building up the shoulder stability required to hand onehanded, which then surely has more benefit in the real world, you know, big throw for a hold, hit it, feet swing off, usually you need the shoulder stability to hang those holds more than you need the static finger strength? You could spend years doing weighted hangs with your entire family hanging on your back as additional weight, but still never be able to do a decent one-arm hang of a generous edge.
I thought we were talking about one-arm hangs... 8) :jab:
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For me just under 30% (21kilos), and that's on a good flat 1st joint edge (12mm I think)
Personally I dont understand how people manage to do 60% etc!, unless they're hanging off jugs? Maybe im just pathetic!
+1
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+ 2
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Hmmm, too many strong people posting I'm getting confused. So.....
I have just started attempting max hangs. what I'm doing:
- two handed
- Bottom crimps on BM (hold 3)
- 10 Hangs of 10 secs
- 3 mins + rest
- +5kg
I've only just started so didn't want to go bonkers on weight as wasn't sure how it would work out. My questions:
- Should I be using bigger holds and more weight
- Should I ditch the weight and try bigger hold, one handed
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If you are new to fingerboarding try hanging 12-15 s for the first month or so, 3-5 sets probably suffice for rapid improvement without you getting so tired you have to sacrificing regular climbing too much.
Hold size: there's a difference having a hold for the first and the second phalanges. You'd surely like to increase strength hanging from the first, and perhaps for the second.
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10" hangs are far from being maximal.
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Right I am thinking I need to add weight to my dead hangs. I tend to aim for 8-10 secs for max hangs and when I can do that make it harder. Just wondering peoples' opinion on the best strategy to add weight. Should I:
a) Add weight gradually from no weight to adding 2kgs every 3 sessions or so, or...
b) Dive straight in and find a max weight where I can only hold on for a 2-4 seconds and use that until I can hang for 8-10 seconds before adding more weight.
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10" hangs are far from being maximal.
Of course. Max "isometric" force is reached after approximately 1.8 s and after around 4 s it dips below 95%.
http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs11332-007-0041-3
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In all cases its best not to stress I reckon. Important considerations re hold size/weight are things like - what feels the least tweaky for you, what feels like u can really give it some beans etc. As long as you're taking a hold which isnt an actual jug and giving it hell, that's what matters.
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I also wouldnt worry what is 'max' in a strict sense. Seeing as nobody really knows what's the best hang duration/protocol in terms of improving at rock climbing, just pick one you like and do it a lot. Then pick another one a few months down the line and try that.
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Right I am thinking I need to add weight to my dead hangs. I tend to aim for 8-10 secs for max hangs and when I can do that make it harder. Just wondering peoples' opinion on the best strategy to add weight. Should I:
a) Add weight gradually from no weight to adding 2kgs every 3 sessions or so, or...
b) Dive straight in and find a max weight where I can only hold on for a 2-4 seconds and use that until I can hang for 8-10 seconds before adding more weight.
I've no idea which is better in terms of making you better at climbing, but a) would seem to be far less likely to end in tears
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Thanks jwi, Nibs and 3-9.
I'm not new to fingerboarding but have only really done repeaters before so am new to these hangs but not to the board.
I had to google "phalanges" but appears I'm hanging off the first and moving to a bigger hold would mean using the second a bit as well which would be less beneficial I think.
So, I shall stick to what I am doing, slowly increase the weight when I stop failing on the later reps. I'm happy on the hold and it felt hard but not the living end so there is scope to push it a bit more too.
And yes, 3-9, I think the best gains will be made by coming up with a plan and sticking to it, not just coming up with a new plan every fortnight.
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Warm up properly.
First joint edge.
Setmax weight by how much weight you can hang with on first joint edge for 10seconds (at 10 secs you want to be failing)
Do three reps at 7 seconds and have 2 mins in between each hang.
Do this twice a week.
That's my input.
If your fingers hurt, stop
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Ducko, do you do this a part of a bigger session or in isolation, it doesn't seem like much, even after an extensive warm up?
My issue is that I'm only getting max 1 session a week at the wall (life doesn't half get in the way sometimes) so am trying to fit in some more fingerboard sessions. Two of your sessions, a wall session and maybe an outside mission for a morning doesn't sound that much if the fingerboarding only actually equates to 6 hangs of 7 seconds!
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Right I am thinking I need to add weight to my dead hangs. I tend to aim for 8-10 secs for max hangs and when I can do that make it harder. Just wondering peoples' opinion on the best strategy to add weight. Should I:
a) Add weight gradually from no weight to adding 2kgs every 3 sessions or so, or...
b) Dive straight in and find a max weight where I can only hold on for a 2-4 seconds and use that until I can hang for 8-10 seconds before adding more weight.
Shouldn't you actually be concentrating on sorting out your whack shoulder girdle and elbow issues, not adding more weight to your deadhangs?
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Ducko, do you do this a part of a bigger session or in isolation, it doesn't seem like much, even after an extensive warm up?
My issue is that I'm only getting max 1 session a week at the wall (life doesn't half get in the way sometimes) so am trying to fit in some more fingerboard sessions. Two of your sessions, a wall session and maybe an outside mission for a morning doesn't sound that much if the fingerboarding only actually equates to 6 hangs of 7 seconds!
It doesn't sound much but it's enough, your fingers need recovery time.
Generally Id warm up easy, do a few normal hangs varying holds Strech a bit maybe do some easy campusing then do the hangs.
After that carry on with your session.
The secret is to get stronger but not injured and fingers are fragile
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Right I am thinking I need to add weight to my dead hangs. I tend to aim for 8-10 secs for max hangs and when I can do that make it harder. Just wondering peoples' opinion on the best strategy to add weight. Should I:
a) Add weight gradually from no weight to adding 2kgs every 3 sessions or so, or...
b) Dive straight in and find a max weight where I can only hold on for a 2-4 seconds and use that until I can hang for 8-10 seconds before adding more weight.
Shouldn't you actually be concentrating on sorting out your whack shoulder girdle and elbow issues, not adding more weight to your deadhangs?
This is def an important factor. If you've gay elbows then its better to do smaller hold/less weight than bigger hold with more weight, as you want max finger workout with the least impact on ur elbows possible IMHO.