UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: rainbow on December 09, 2012, 10:31:58 pm
-
Hi everyone,
After helping out with the BMC & Vertebrate Publishing guidebooks to said area, at the back of my mind I was wondering how to advertise/document other areas & venues which have been bouldered on but not documented. I have explained why things were left out, and why I/we have left it until now to publicise areas in the introduction, which is in one of pics below. Also I’ve added a few random topo’s to give everyone a preview on what we’ve got and how I’ve written it up. Currently it stands at 61 pages of A4 (landscape) both sides. 95% of that is previously undocumented venues.
Now this is where it gets interesting, whilst helping Cofe with the Churnet section in the Vertebrate guide we bounced the idea around of doing a free pdf of other venues at a later date. Development over the last 3 years has increased dramatically that a pdf download is unrealistic, as who wants to print 60 odd pages off only for them to get crumbled up at the bottom of your bags etc. So those lovely guys at Vertebrate have offered to take what I’ve written up and produce a guide in booklet form and why not go the whole hog and add the major venues as featured in their guide. So the pics are to give you guys a preview.
After climbing in the area over the past 15 years, and the past four years pretty much exclusively this guide is true labour of love. I have missed out on many sessions on the major areas within the Peak. Do I regret this, hell no. I fucking love the climbing style of the Churnet, the solitude and the beauty of the surroundings only enhance this further. As of next year I can look forward to starting my grit and limestone apprenticeships once more. So if you see me at Stanage, struggling on some slabby 5+ with nah crimps you’ll know why.
Enjoy
Stu Brooks
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/Churnet%20Guide/Churnetguide1.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/Churnet%20Guide/Churnet2.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/Churnet%20Guide/Churnet3.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/Churnet%20Guide/Churnet4.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/Churnet%20Guide/Churnet5.jpg)
Now what I from you guys are your thoughts on some grade changes I propose on some of the major venues
Cottage
Swap the grades around on Green Wall and Sapling Bulge
Left Pine, currently 6c, change to 6c+
Gentleman’s
Jill the Traverse, currently 6b+, change to 6c
Moon Jumper, currently 6b+, change to 6b as no harder than old problem just more moves.
Gentleman John currently, 6b+, change to 6c
Low Traverse, currently 6b+, change to 6c
Wright’s
The undercut, currently 6c+, change to 7a
The Crack, currently 7a, change to 6c+
Tyler if you match the flake in roof then it’s more like a 7a+ (although a eliminate on an eliminate)
Simple Simon maybe knock it up to 7b+????
Bizarre
Currently 7b, up to 7b+???? 7c was way soft, 7b is very hard so 7b+ would be a good compromise?
Bizarre and Simple Simon are hard to grade, are they approx the same grade?? taking into account that bizarre is a lot more morpho, think generally rather than of a personal grade.
-
oops, Sorry should have scaled down them pics to make it easier for the eyes.
-
Looks awesome.
Some stray apostrophes and typos in the title text. I'm sure you'll proof it in due course - but they just jumped at me.
-
Agree with all grade changes except for on the undercut and gentleman john
-
Looks awesome! Well psyched... Feels like a long while since I've graced the Churnet with my fatness! Good to see projects being offered as well... Good work guys! :bow:
-
Nice looking guide, I'll definitely be getting one. :thumbsup:
Can't comment on most of the grade changed, but I did Moon Jumper earlier this year and the comment I made in my logbook is almost identical to yours!
-
An awesome effort cleaning, climbing and documenting all this Stu. :clap2:
Have visited a few of the new areas with Tim and had some great days out. Amazing how accessible and close to existing venues lots of the new stuff is. Plenty of future classics to keep me busy in years to come, so long as i can keep off the crumble and ice cream at the Ramblers.
-
Fucking awesome! I too have spent far too much time in the Churnet, so cannot wait for a full guide. Splendid effort.
-
Some videos of some of these problems in this guide on my Vimeo, this is the latest one
"http://vimeo.com/55951459"
-
Nice one. Is that Nic Jones singing?
-
Yeah the song is Clyde water by Nic Jones
-
Spellbind looks the monty!
-
Some videos of some of these problems in this guide on my Vimeo, this is the latest one
One thing which strikes me about the vid is dry rock!! not seen any for weeks and weeks.
Thanks for everyone's positive feedback. Had a lot of emails and pm's about this and grades etc. If any one else wants to shout out about anything, now is the time.
Whilst I'm clarifying a few things I wonder if any one of you guys have done this morpho eliminate on Wright's Unconquerable? From the start of WU reach the first two undercuts then do a monster move to reach the dish, then launch for the jug. Shame it is a bit of an eliminate but does look a funky move.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/Churnet%20Guide/IMG_8003.jpg)
-
Wondered what the latest is on this. When do you think the guide might be ready?
On a side note the churnet is looking a bit of a state at the moment with the tree felling/thinning - real shame its like a war zone in some places. Makes finding some of the less well known places - breathe block etc even more tricky and don't go expecting any shade on the cottage rocks side - though not sure felling is as far as the ousal area.
Anybody know more about this? Will there be an effort to tidy the place up.
cheers
-
We're working away on the guide, although a) it's big (a good thing) and b) our studio has been hectic this last month. Amazing how much unknown climbing there is down there.
-
:bounce:
-
Cope forgot to mention c) people keep doing more things there. When's the cut off date for new stuff. Hope its after the spring.
-
Yeah, whenever Stu emails me now about new stuff etc I just put my fingers in my ears and go 'nah nah nah nah nah...' ;)
-
Cope forgot to mention c) people keep doing more things there. When's the cut off date for new stuff. Hope its after the spring.
:) interesting typo! Was it ironic ;)
-
Cope? I can't.
-
On a side note the churnet is looking a bit of a state at the moment with the tree felling/thinning - real shame its like a war zone in some places. Makes finding some of the less well known places - breathe block etc even more tricky and don't go expecting any shade on the cottage rocks side - though not sure felling is as far as the ousal area.
Anybody know more about this? Will there be an effort to tidy the place up.
cheers
The clearance of the trees will benefit us as climbers loads. Last time I was up there hillside from Bizarre all the way to the toilet block had been cleared. Grasshopper was unclimbable due to there being trees across it. Not sure if it has been cleared yet. I've been intouch with the Foestry Commission regarding the guide and next time I speak to them I'll ask if there is going to be a clear up.
-
Almost forgot. If anyone has any decent photo's of the bouldering on the main bulk of Wright's (not on Fingers) and Cottage let me or Cofe know. Can't promise they will make the guide but the more we have to choose from the better the it will look.
Cheers
-
Hi everyone, Apologies one and all for the delay of this guide. Cofe has been working hard on this in between all the other releases which had already been scheduled this year. Rather than rush it and get it out just for when everything gets damp and horrible during the winter. We have decided to wait until March next year then when it does come out things will have just started to dry out for the 2014 season.
Would also like to ask everyone what link ups have been done at Wright's Rock and Gentleman's
I have currently have listed the ones already in the older guides and know that
Wrong’s into Wrights has been done at Sport 8a
Wright's into the old sloper problem, 7b+
Jill the traverse, into Low Traverse into Slow Worm, 7c
Low Traverse into, High Speed Imp Act, 7a+
Low Traverse into, Jill the Traverse into Moon Jumper, 7a
Also has anyone done the Simple Simon Dyno? (from the porthole to the jugs not using anything out left or right)
After researching things it was done at least four years ago
Grasshopper/Breathe all cleaned up after the Forestry Commission felled the area earlier this year. Loads to do now.
Sorry about the wait, but it will be worth it, I promise.
Stuart
-
all the other releases which had already been scheduled this year.
I suspect his latest release will take up a fair bit of his time too.
-
Hi everyone,
After realising that by keeping the location of the two problems in the vid below a secret, it may have a negative affect on the new guide and not a positive one which I had originally intended.
Those two problems and more came be found along the left hand side of the Peakstone Amphitheatre. So close to the main path yet so hidden by the tree's and rhododendrons.
I have cobbled together a pdf showing the topo’s and approach details from my draft.
If anyone wants a peek pm me your email address and I'll attach one as soon as.
Right from the outset, I wanted the guide to be definitive & inspiring. Looking at the content of the guide I think we have something very special indeed.
Stuart Brooks.
Churnet - Mirfs Roof and Witness the Churnetness on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72886759)
-
Hi everyone, Apologies one and all for the delay of this guide. Cofe has been working hard on this in between all the other releases which had already been scheduled this year. Rather than rush it and get it out just for when everything gets damp and horrible during the winter. We have decided to wait until March next year then when it does come out things will have just started to dry out for the 2014 season.
Any updates?
-
Hi, its pretty much ready for the printers :bounce: There has been a delay due to us working alongside the Forestry Commission and Natural England who control the guidelines for SSSI areas. Both parties have seen VP draft and are blown away on how much work has gone into it and how good it looks and are fully behind the guide going ahead. The SSSI areas are hugely sensitive. Got a meeting in the 1st week in June to finalise a few things so all parties are happy. Then its back to Cofe and then them printers. :great:
-
Any News ?
-
Hoping to send the guide to print in Jan, once the final bits are sorted out. Should be out in time for most of the crags drying off. Here's rainbow on some rubbish looking line down there:
(http://www.v-publishing.co.uk/files/downloads/CB-COVER_1.jpg)
-
Looking forward to seeing the final version.
-
Effort troops! Well psyched :clap2:
-
There's probably some snazzy way of embedding this, but I've just uploaded a few sample pages from the Churnet guide here (http://issuu.com/vertebratepublishing/docs/churnet_bouldering_issuu).
It should be back from the printers end of Feb/first week of March.
-
looks great, well done to those involved
-
Amazing work by Stu (rainbow). Proper local hero.
-
Looks amazing! Can't wait :) Well done everyone!
-
Brilliant effort all round but especially Stu, total dedication :bow:.
Can't wait to finally get hands on a copy, guide production looks quality.
-
New guide just arrived in the post. Good work, it's awesome.
-
Just received mine. Looking fantastic! Well done Stu and everyone else involved. I know a lot of hard work went into this.
-
New guide just arrived in the post. Good work, it's awesome.
+ 1
-
Brilliant. Mine arrived today as well :)
-
It looks great, shame about this rain, was hoping to properly test it this weekend!
-
It's a thing of beauty! Good work to those involved.
-
Good effort guys, although I'm a bit puzzled why Ousal crag is missing
-
Awesome. Well done all involved!
-
Good effort guys, although I'm a bit puzzled why Ousal crag is missing
Some last minute access difficulties in that area I believe.
-
There's a note in the front about Ousal and some other bits.
-
Thanks guys for the positive comments so far.
Good effort guys, although I'm a bit puzzled why Ousal crag is missing
Unbelievable Ousal lies on private land as too does Stoney Dale. The Forestry leases the land from the owners. The forestry were willing to ask the owners for climbing to be allowed, and them being advertised in the guide but advised against it, as there is a very high probability they would say no this could lead to access problems when they aren’t currently any ;) The forestry requested the removal of Ousal & Stoneydale not only to protect their lease contract but to protect me, the author and the publisher. The problems found on these two venues have been allowed to be included in the graded list and may find the way onto Peak Bouldering and Ukc :whistle: The Forestry and Natural England were very grateful that they have been involved, as it’s the first time climbers have liaised with the landowners and other organisations in the lower Churnet. Its shows all parties working together and it could be useful to have them onside for the future. Natural England has especially been helpful not only allowing us to climb on new blocks within the SSSI units but the cleaning of them also.
Really looking forward to April/May as that’s the best time of the year to visit, just wish I was :strongbench:
-
Spot on Mr Rainbow and a very sensible attitude too :clap2:
-
Defo a great attitude Rainbow.
-
New guide arrived and looks fantastic :) Tons of stuff to go at!
-
Top work. Looking forward to more sandstone shenanigans.
-
Right then, I've updated the UKC database to include what the guide contains. Sssshhhh I've also updated the whole of the Stoney Dale circuit, and within the photo gallery of that crag is a few topo's which correspond to the numbering in the database. You will have to look at the Stoney Dale bit separate as its not in the link below.
Perfect weather for getting down there at the mo. Let the grades debate start :-\ :whistle:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=1503
-
Brilliant work on all this. More great effort in sharing the Churnet joy.
Does anyone have any knowledge of the fire in Dimmingsdale? The short online report on Ashbourne news suggests its quite extensive and could give some access issues in the short term.
Very sad news.
http://m.ashbournenewstelegraph.co.uk/acres-Dimmingsdale-woodland-destroyed/story-26378634-detail/story.html
-
I can't work out exactly where it is but the article mentions Red Road, which is the road down to Ramblers Retreat and basically runs along the bottom of the woods where the bulk of the climbing is.
-
there has been a massive fire in the woods around the area near the tea room.not sure if its affected any of the rocks though
-
Were you on shift Mark?
-
fortunately i missed the initial call and then when crews were called again i missed it by 20 minutes,win win.
-
Fire update - walked around the burnt area today: No documented climbing crags affected, altho a good bite of SSSI gone..
It's based on the spur that comes down to the big house at the head of the lake - couple of non climbing crags burnt..
Photos:
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/Dimmingsdale%20fire/d9f2613c-2e99-4a46-b92f-baa1a3926ed0_zpsdsi7ktro.jpg)
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/Dimmingsdale%20fire/9fae3a0f-6339-4643-a542-e88d8dd03ca2_zps0djldevh.jpg)
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/Dimmingsdale%20fire/dc40f446-0696-49d0-8087-742fe5e51197_zpssh5ij4e8.jpg)
It went up to the bottom of this baby crag near the youth hostel, which I know I and others have played on; didn't seem damaged:
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/Dimmingsdale%20fire/97124d87-0c8d-4421-b9d3-2e12094ee55c_zpsekjl5nhj.jpg)
Interestingly at the base of the crag (did I say near the youth hostel) were two of those instant barbecue trays - not wishing to make 5 by adding 2 + 2, but is this the kind of thing the fire service would be interested in when they're investigating Mark??
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/bellerophon23/Dimmingsdale%20fire/56970d88-ce96-414f-9924-338423f5f9dd_zpsnlnjehwy.jpg)