UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: r-man on July 05, 2007, 01:45:07 pm
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In recent weeks I've been playing on various bits of esoteric limestone with Polish Dave. Here are a couple of the best problems we've done. And they are both very good indeed.
Vinsensoz - 7a+ / Zosnesniv - 7b
Park under Sean's Roof. Directly opposite is an attractive wall, which would have some excellent highballs if it weren't for the dodgy landing. However, the traverse is really enjoyable - slightly overhanging, pumpy, on smooth comfy holds, and with a nice crossover crux. This piece of rock seems to stay as dry as the Tor, and though there are sometimes wet patches, the traverse holds generally remain dry.
Vinsensoz is the left to right version. Sitstart left of the corner on obvious holds and work rightwards. Finish at the slanting jug on the far right, slightly higher than the traverse line.
Zosnesniv is the harder (and even better) right to left version - start on the right arete and traverse left to finish dropping down on the start holds of Vinsensoz.
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/vinsensoz%20mont.jpg)
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/zosnesniv%20bw2.jpg)
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/zosnesniv%20bw1.jpg)
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Hall of the Mountain King - 7a+
This marvelous problem resides in the roadside cave down and left of Beginner's wall. Park as for Beginner's Wall and walk down the road. Though at first glance it may appear too small, the opening of the cave yields a fantastic roof problem.
Start on the left wall at a mono and jug. Easy moves lead to jugs in the roof, then big undercuts. Next follows a perfect handjam and double toe-hooks, a reach to crimps, then a slap to a jug up and left, with another tricky move holding the swing (toe-hook) to match, and then slap the final jug. Brilliant.
Unfortunately this cave will be soaking after all the rain, but it's well worth seeking out after a dry spell. Also fun exploring the cave, which turns into a low-ceilinged tunnel that you can wander along. Never got to the end of this. Problem name was inspired by the tale of a tramp who used to live in this cave. Any limestone vets remember him?
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Hall%20of%20the%20Mountain%20King.jpg)
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you guys and percy should have a crap-problem-name battle.
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Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man.
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Afraid the traverses opposite Sean's roof were done by Jerry yonks ago as his warm up for Seans Roof. You're right though a nice quality piece of rock.
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Fair enough.
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I could do with being able to take a jumper off mid sequence - could you share the knowledge? ;D
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Just you wait. I'll get a video...
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does Dave know he's being stalked?
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does Dave know he's being stalked?
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7602.0.html :)
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maybe r-man actually is polish dave. a bit like tony simpson and tony simpson.
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you guys and percy should have a crap-problem-name battle.
how come you put "name" in there
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Park under Sean's Roof. Directly opposite is an attractive wall, which would have some excellent highballs if it weren't for the dodgy landing.
We used to call them solos. I've done a couple of lines on here, I wouldn't be suprised if someone like Paul Mitchell has done some too (there's definitely a line of his through Sean's Roof).
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does Dave know he's being stalked?
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7602.0.html :)
there was even a poem.
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Thanks for the pics and bits r-man. Always nice to read something new about little esoteric things, even if they might have been done before. ;)
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Cheers. That's what this site is for - sharing the love. :)
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While searching for dry rock Scouse and myself came accross a couple of good problems in Blackwell Dale today. They are about 20 metres left of the roadside traverses, opposite Sean's Roof, above a very low cave entrance, and like the traverses are on very good, compact rock.
The best of the two is a sit start from a sloping ledge, up and right to slots then straight up on small crimps to the obvious break.
The other is a standing start immediately to the left, using good comfortable crimps, (and the starting ledge of the other problem for your feet) to reach a crozzley kudos style crimp, then a slopey pocket, and finish with a jump to the break.
Not too sure about grades because they were both a bit damp, and required repeated wiping, chalking and brushing, but I would guess at 7b/7b+ and 7a+ respectively.
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Good stuff! Keen check these out - we played on this wall briefly, but the slopey ledge was wet so we didn't do anything using that. We tried a sitter just to the right, but it ended up being a little eliminate. Your problems sound good though - the rock is all very nice this in area.
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Good stuff! Keen check these out - we played on this wall briefly, but the slopey ledge was wet so we didn't do anything using that. We tried a sitter just to the right, but it ended up being a little eliminate. Your problems sound good though - the rock is all very nice this in area.
Yeah the ledge was pretty damp yesterday, which made it precarious to hang. One of those holds where you can see your handprint when you let go. We saw the cleaned slot to the right of the slots on this problem, but like you say it seemed like just one pull to the broken ground on the right, or a tight eliminate. the rock on these problems and your traverse is some of the most compact and good quality limestone I've seen in the peak. I think the left hand problem is your sort of bouncy thing. We went to check out your roof in the cave as well but it was very wet in there.
It's nice to have names:
the 7a+: Free Range Abattoir (in honour of Stone, via Dave)
the 7b/7b+ Red or Dead (in your face dave and cofe)
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the 7b/7b+ Red or Dead (in your face dave and cofe)
eat my shorts.
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Went back again tonight, and they were certainly a bit easier in the dry, but still good.
We reckoned Red Or Dead: 7b, and added the sitter to Free Range Abattoir, which adds a good dynamic move off the slopey ledge to the starting crimps, and makes for a more complete problem: 7a+/ 7b (unless you can miss out the crux jump at the end like Man Mountain Shaq Parry :'( ).
We both did the traverses as well, which are also very good.
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I would like to ass that these problems are very good, the right hand one is my favourite because of the comfy rock. Theres a good evening out to be had in blackwell dale at 7a+/b - both these new things, the jerry traverse in either direction (7a/+?), swing time and man of steel at beginners, and theres a few more things tucked away too, like a bonza 7a+ highball wall. good venues.
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For those who are into the Limestone esoterica, I did three right hand starts to Red or Dead yesterday, all starting on the same flat hold and coming into Red or Dead at different heights. Each sporting good moves on nice (for limestone) holds. About 7b+ whichever way you go.
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New problem at the Tube from (woz) looks good! :great:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZlnKqEiMl0
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Exactly where is Beginner's Wall? Last time I went to Raven Torr I think I managed to find the traverses opposite the big cave / layby (Sean's Roof?). Is Beginner's Wall closer to the A6 end of the B6049 than these or is it back towards the Angler's Rest / Raven Tor? Which side of the road is the crag on it on and how far from the relevant layby?
Any advice / help / beta much appreciated. Sorry for the probably unnecessary questions but ft7ish limestone sounds like my kind of thing (and I despair of Weedkiller ever being dry - I'd swear someone gives it a soaking everytime I venture south of Doncaster)
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Its the layby about 200m downhill from seans roof (on the same side of the road) You can see it above you when you are parked in the layby.
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Beginners Wall is back towards the tor from Seans Roof (big roof over layby). It's in the trees up the bank from the next layby down the road on the same side as Sean's Roof.
I think Cofe or Scouse said that Beginners Wall was wet Yesterday, as was most of the Tor, but the Traverse opposite Seans, Red or Dead, and Free Range Abbatoir were all dry.
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New problem at the Tube from (woz) looks good! :great:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZlnKqEiMl0
Nice one!
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No. Pure scuzz.
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Hey, Oddy - are you on some kind of German hardcore come down at the moment, or just nit picking? What you need is a good bottle of Dows Vintage and a block of Wensleydale to cheers you up...
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New problem at the Tube from (woz) looks good! :great:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZlnKqEiMl0
The crux throw looks outrageous! Only been there twice, hardcore moves in a beautiful setting.
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I'm really glad that you 1. managed to find it, and 2. enjoyed it enough to go back :)
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You absolute beast dan! looks awesome!
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We reckoned Red Or Dead: 7b, and added the sitter to Free Range Abattoir, which adds a good dynamic move off the slopey ledge to the starting crimps,
We both did the traverses as well, which are also very good.
For those who are into the Limestone esoterica, I did three right hand starts to Red or Dead yesterday, all starting on the same flat hold and coming into Red or Dead at different heights. Each sporting good moves on nice (for limestone) holds. About 7b+ whichever way you go.
Had a great session on these on Sunday. Did the two ups, think the consensus in our group was that both were 7b. Did one of the extensions into ROD, following the low line of pockets (seemed like the most obvious line). Good moves. Also did this line into FRA, which seemed a little less pumpy, but still the same grade. 7b+ seems fair for both.
Also did a fun dyno. Another nice bit of movement to add to the entertainment on this wall.
7a+ - Jump the Dead Donkey - From the good holds in the centre, bounce for the top of FRA.
This really is a great mini-crag. Here's a clip of Andy S on Red or Dead:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I37swTdEXPQ
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thats red or dead innit
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Ah, got the lines muddled! Have corrected my post.
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We reckoned Red Or Dead: 7b, and added the sitter to Free Range Abattoir, which adds a good dynamic move off the slopey ledge to the starting crimps,
We both did the traverses as well, which are also very good.
For those who are into the Limestone esoterica, I did three right hand starts to Red or Dead yesterday, all starting on the same flat hold and coming into Red or Dead at different heights. Each sporting good moves on nice (for limestone) holds. About 7b+ whichever way you go.
Had a great session on these on Sunday. Did the two ups, think the consensus in our group was that both were 7b. Did one of the extensions into ROD, following the low line of pockets (seemed like the most obvious line). Good moves. Also did this line into FRA, which seemed a little less pumpy, but still the same grade. 7b+ seems fair for both.
Also did a fun dyno. Another nice bit of movement to add to the entertainment on this wall.
7a+ - Jump the Dead Donkey - From the good holds in the centre, bounce for the top of FRA.
This really is a great mini-crag. Here's a clip of Andy S on Red or Dead:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I37swTdEXPQ
Glad you enjoyed them Robin. I've already done various eliminates on here including FRA as a dyno, which is how i originally did it, and a line straight up the centre using the pockets (which can be used as intermediates on the natural lines), but I think that eliminates on here are better left as things for individuals to work out and play on, rather than recording, as the natural lines are good enough on their own and don't need diluting into an eliminates wall like pinches wall or minus 10.
I haven't done The right hand start into FRA, but i'd be surprised if it was 7B+, as since Ray worked out you can rock over the last move, rather than jumping, the first dyno is the crux, which you would miss out on the right hand start. Meaning once you get to the good crimps you have comparitively easier climbing left than on Red or Dead. If that makes sense? I'll probably try this tomorrow.
The highest version of the right hand start into Red or Dead is worth doing as it doesn't share any moves with Red or Dead, but flows very nicely, with some good crimpy locks.
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Glad you enjoyed them Robin. I've already done various eliminates on here including FRA as a dyno, which is how i originally did it, and a line straight up the centre using the pockets (which can be used as intermediates on the natural lines), but I think that eliminates on here are better left as things for
Fair enough. I agree it's not an eliminate venue, but the dyno seemed like a fairly obvious challenge.
I haven't done The right hand start into FRA, but i'd be surprised if it was 7B+, as since Ray worked out you can rock over the last move, rather than jumping, the first dyno is the crux, which you would miss out on the right hand start. Meaning once you get to the good crimps you have comparitively easier climbing left than on Red or Dead. If that makes sense? I'll probably try this tomorrow.
That sort of makes sense, but on the other hand the linking section is at least a grade harder than the direct start to FRA. It's solid 7b on it's own, and there are still a couple of small holds to pull on once you get to FRA. :shrug:
The highest version of the right hand start into Red or Dead is worth doing as it doesn't share any moves with Red or Dead, but flows very nicely, with some good crimpy locks.
Sounds good. Next time, Gadget. Next time...
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Have been back and done the low start to Red or Dead from the break under the roof of the cave, via small edges. Any Hole's A Goal, 7c maybe?
Also did the right start into Free Range Abattoir, more good moves, but I still reckon it's easier than Top Shop (the right start to Red or Dead).
This bit of crag now has:
The traverse (in both directions) 7a+
Free Range Abattoir 7a+/b
Red or Dead 7b
Free Range Abattoir Right Hand Start 7b/+
Top Shop Low 7b+
Top Shop Middle 7b+
Top Shop High 7b+
Any Hole's A Goal 7c
plus some good fun eliminates.
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These sound good, any chance of a small photo topo?
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I knocked one up last week actually. Watch this space.
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Nice one Robin, look forward to seeing it.
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Have been back and done the low start to Red or Dead from the break under the roof of the cave, via small edges. Any Hole's A Goal, 7c maybe?
Did you go from the low break, to the big slopey ledge (via the small crimps), and then up - or directly up to the twin pockets?
I did the first one, and then climbed straight up. Don't know which problem (FRA/ROD) I finished up. I just climb like a free spirit, man. Hurry up with the topo Robin.
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Yeah, yeah. I have to keep changing it when people keep climbing new things, as it sounds like you just did (because I assume Any hole's a goal goes up to the two pockets/holes).
Gimme half an hour...
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Here it is. Beginner's wall in there too. I used your pic for that Dan.
TOPO (http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Topo%20-%20Sean%27s%20Roof%20and%20Beginner%27s%20Wall.pdf)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3183/2570168613_3d3c38a23a.jpg)
1. 6b - From the juggy ledge, climb to the break.
2. 7a+ - Free Range Abattoir. From the slopey ledge, power upwards to a fingery finish. (Andy Banks)
3. 7b - Red or Dead. From the same start, move right to a pocket, then continue up. (Andy Banks)
4a. 7b+ - FRA lower start. From the break under the roof of the cave, move left to the start of FRA. Continue. (Dan Warren)
4b. 7c - Any Hole's A Goal. The low start to ROD from the same break, via small edges. (Andy Banks)
5a. 7b+ - Top Shop. From the flat hold, traverse into ROD at various heights. (Andy Banks)
LOW- Follow pockets to the big crimp, continue as for ROD.
MIDDLE - Gain crimp above twin pockets with rh, then left and up.
HIGH – Same crimp with lh, then up with rh.
5b. 7b - Deranged Abbott. Finish up FRA. (Robin Mueller)
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Have been back and done the low start to Red or Dead from the break under the roof of the cave, via small edges. Any Hole's A Goal, 7c maybe?
Did you go from the low break, to the big slopey ledge (via the small crimps), and then up - or directly up to the twin pockets?
I did the first one, and then climbed straight up. Don't know which problem (FRA/ROD) I finished up. I just climb like a free spirit, man. Hurry up with the topo Robin.
Both. Using the same nubbin with different hands, but using an intermediate edge for my right when going direct to the pockets. Thought they were about the same, with the slopey ledge way being a bit easier, of the two ways, for the short, and direct to the slots being a bit easier for the tall, as you don't need to do the pull off the slopey ledge from an awkard position, and it being less dabby. I didn't finish either of them up Free Range Abattoir though, Just Red or Dead.
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(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3183/2570168613_3d3c38a23a.jpg)
2. 7a+ - Free Range Abattoir. From the slopey ledge, power upwards to a fingery finish. (Andy Banks)
4a. 7b+ - FRA sitstart. From the break under the roof of the cave, move left to the start of FRA. Continue. (Dan Warren)
As Free Range Abattoir is already a sit start 4a is is more of a low/ lie down start.
(woz), did you drop down to the start of FRA or pull up and left from the slots?
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Amended.
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(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3183/2570168613_3d3c38a23a.jpg)
2. 7a+ - Free Range Abattoir. From the slopey ledge, power upwards to a fingery finish. (Andy Banks)
4a. 7b+ - FRA sitstart. From the break under the roof of the cave, move left to the start of FRA. Continue. (Dan Warren)
As Free Range Abattoir is already a sit start 4a is is more of a low/ lie down start.
(woz), did you drop down to the start of FRA or pull up and left from the slots?
I pulled on at the low break, then went RH nubbin, LH Slopey break. RH pocket, LH good Edge, RH crimp stright above, LH crimp at same level, RH jug (ROD line on topo). I didn't know the problems so was just trying to do what I remembered from the vid. I think I just raped both problems, although maybe I did a wierd sequence on ROD. I cant figure it out. I thought 7b+/7c.
When I did FRA, I did the big slap from the start ledge straight to the pair of good holds, then finished as I just described.
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Hey good topos Robin, look forward to doing the new problems at Sean's roof. Just a small point on the descriptions at Beginner's wall. The first 3 problems, Man of Steel to Swing Time all have a sit start on the big polished foot holds.
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Just thought as well Robin, if you want to mark up the 2 hard variants on Neil's wall and the sitter, which is the way I did the problems originally. Miss out the left hand foot hold which you move up to the layaway from. I believe this puts the grades back at 7c+ and 8a, or at least it does for someone of my height. I know they're eliminates but the move is very very different, it's up to you. Cheers Neil.
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The first 3 problems, Man of Steel to Swing Time all have a sit start on the big polished foot holds.
do you mean "you can also do them from sitter" or "they all have mandatory sitters"? I thought when originally reported they just started from the jugs (which is a pretty logical start point).
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When you say jugs, do you mean, the big polished foot holds that you have to squat down to get to, which is what I mean, and this how I first did the problems. OK its probably a bit more of a squat than a true sitter. What I'm trying to say is that it's not a stand up, ie you have to make a couple of moves to get to the position from where you reach rightwards on Swing Time.
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yeah i think we're on about the sake hold - big positive holds at about waist height - i just did wonder since below these there are some worse pollished foothold which is what i thought you were on about.
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Man of steel/swingtime/traversty start - Hmm, I thought that was obvious from the photo, but I've just looked again and it's not. I'll change to:
1. 7b - Man Of Steel. From the large ledge, climb up to the spikey jug, staying right of the crack.
Sound right?
Neil's Wall - I assume you used a high left foot smear to do the crux? This is how I did the problem also (the other foothold felt too low). I'm not convinced this is harder than 7c. Monkey Boy did it the same way, and took 7c for it as well. Great move, and 7c isn't a soft grade!
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All I know is that I went back after Ru told me about the new foothold and I found that I could lock the move statically and it felt about 7c. However, the reason I found the problem so hard originally is that I kept slipping off the high layaway, it was in the middle of the hottest summer on record, and with more people cleaning the hold I'm sure it has improved considerably so I can certainly understand it becoming easier. I also noted that this was the case on Man of steel etc. The hold you move out right from used to be diabolical and really hard to move from but is now pretty good! Someone has certainly done some pretty good cleaning on that one!
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I'm sure all the holds have cleaned up loads. It's been a popular venue. Thanks for developing it!
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So I thought I'd pay Beginner's Wall a visit on Sunday and put your topo out of date Robin. I did 2 'new' things. The first is a true sit start to Man of Steel etc starting on the very polished foot holds below the normal starting holds. This adds a couple of really nice moves but doesn't really add to the grades. The second addition is a bit more significant. From a sit start directly below the finish of Man of Steel, with you're right hand in a small pocket climb directly up the wall without recourse to the large holds to the left. Finish as for Man of Steel. Named 'Advanced Training' graded 8a. Go on everyone, clean it, repeat it and down grade it. For someone of my height there is a ridiculously hard move on it, harder than Bigger Belly, Hoooligan etc but if you're a bit taller I suspect it may be OK.
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Nice one! Have you got any beta, or is it all self explanatory?
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Right hand pocket, left hand small edge at same height, feet on large foot holds. Pull on, left hand to good 2 finger vertical slot with thumb in slot fingers on edge just above. Outside of left foot on small edge about 8 inches heigher. Go again with left hand to holds that you move right from on Swing Time. Good luck if you're going to have a go.
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Good effort Neil.
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Cheers Jasper, it's taken me nearly 2 years to do this. I tried this start when I first did all the other problems and couldn't get anywhere near it. Then I kept trying it every now and again over the elapsed period until yesterday.
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Good luck if you're going to have a go.
Sounds like i'll need it! Unless you were right about being tall making a big difference...
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I think if your tall 6ft+, then you might be able to leave your feet on the low big holds for the go again move, infact with your feet on the big holds you may even be able to lock the left hand hold and come through with your right. In some ways I hope it's not possible this way as the go again move is one of the most improbable moves I've done, but hey ho lets see.
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Hi all,
Made a couple of visits to both sean's and beginers area lately.
Somethings at sean's can be a little confusing to start but all in all the climbing is good.
This you can take either as a new problem or as a new method to FRA but satrting on the shelf (as for FRA), make one move left up the ramp, then head for the good flat hold (normally taken with your left) with your right hand. This then allows you to span to a flake/undercut with your left and then back right to the given finish. Dont ask about a grade as I have been injured since 2006 with a back problem and am only just getting going again after my op last october.
Trav :- repeated Neils wall (i think the new way with a foot out far right on the big hold) great bit of climbing and good going if you climbed it by holding the top moves without this foothold. What ever great problems will be back for the ss.
Cheers for now.
Tony Simpson
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Nice one, Neil! That sounds dirty hard.
Tony, foothold out right? The crux for most is the first move, where there is a choice of either a lf high smear (Neil's way), or a good lower lf edge (new way).
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Thanks Robin. I'm also trying the wall just right, inbetween this and Neil's wall. Basically pull on with the shitiest crimps in the world and lurch for the big spike on Swing Time. Do you know of anybody else who might have tried this? I'm getting closer to this but I'm still a few months of being able to do it I think.
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I thought the top match was the crux. Much harder for me than the bottom moves.
Any how great problems.
What do you make of the new of FRA ?
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I thought the top match was the crux. Much harder for me than the bottom moves.
Agreed. What is this big foothold out right. Do you have to be a giant to use it?
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Thanks Robin. I'm also trying the wall just right, inbetween this and Neil's wall. Basically pull on with the shitiest crimps in the world and lurch for the big spike on Swing Time. Do you know of anybody else who might have tried this? I'm getting closer to this but I'm still a few months of being able to do it I think.
Don't know anyone who has tried it.
I thought the top match was the crux. Much harder for me than the bottom moves.
Any how great problems.
What do you make of the new of FRA ?
Neil's Wall - I used big foothold out left for top match. Is that what you meant? Had funny triangular bit with left hand, left foot out left, locked off, matched top. Felt miles easier than bottom to me, but then I was using the high smear to do the bottom... :shrug:
FRA thing - Bit confused to be honest. You don't use any big flat holds for your left on FRA, unless there is one just left of where the lines join on the topo? FRA sequence is: dyno/dynamic heel move to good right hand crimp. Then left hand to nasty little sharp thing. Then right to poor crimp, then rockover to top...
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FRA thing - Bit confused to be honest. You don't use any big flat holds for your left on FRA, unless there is one just left of where the lines join on the topo? FRA sequence is: dyno/dynamic heel move to good right hand crimp. Then left hand to nasty little sharp thing. Then right to poor crimp, then rockover to top...
If I'm reading this right, then I think he reached left from the FRA/RoD starting sloper to a juggier ledge then up to the detached looking flat crimp, (that can be used as a left hand intermediate on FRA before reaching to the crozzley/ spikey left hand hold, but isn't really needed) as you say, to the left of where the lines join, then up with his left to the undercut/ sidepull on the 6b problem, then up to the break.
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Hi,
Think Andy has hit the nail on the head.
Left hand up the break, heel hook start hold with right and catch the flat crimp (underneath sharp one) with right. Left to side pull flake and then top. Much easier sequence and still on same line(ish)
As for my posting re N'S Wall I meant left for big foot hold not right (damn my dyslexia).
Tony.
P.S. great problems well done to all and r-man keep them tops coming makes my own guide book easier to compile (cheers).
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word up muthas
was down at BW tonight - i notice on the topo theres a problem thus:
7b+ - Paul’s Problem. From the juggy ledge, move up
to poor holds, then one hard move to a slopey break.
Now on the bit of rock that this must be i can't find anything 7b+like - does anyone know what the numbers on this are, is it an eliminate or something? how does it relate to the kinda 6a-7a range warmup problems thereabouts? cheers.
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Paul's exact words were : "it's a pathetic little one move thing. just to right of love of money. can't remember what holds it uses. two poorish ones up to a sloping break thing?"
I don't know where that route is, so I just guessed it must go up from the juggy ledge somewhere. Andy B reckoned it did.
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ok must be some kinda eliminate then. we do one on the warmup citcuit that starts on the jug, moves up to a nice pinchy blocky uncercut about a foot above this, undercut to the 2 slopey holds, then bail right into the fossil wall jug to fininish, about 7a or+ and quite good. Sounds like this paul problem is an eliminate (or unlucky sequence) on the same line.
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Hey Dave, did you look at the new sitter I wrote up?
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me and scouse had a look and would try it again when the starting pocket is dry. mick adams did it though, i think he said it was harder than Neil's Wall Sitter but easier than the Recreational Violence Lefthand problem.
just out of interest once you'd gained the Man of Steel holds, did you put foot on the jug out left for the next move (as per the stardup) or do it some other way?
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The pocket was wet when I did it as well so I just stuffed chalk on it each time. I didn't use the big ledge out left, but that might be a height thing. Out of interest did he have to build his feet up like me or could he leave his feet on the lower starting foot holds?
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from your writeup it looks like you used the same ones. do the first move then bump left foot up onto a higher cleaned edge etc.
it also looks like you'd be able to do something starting LH in the wet pocket then blasting up and slightly right.
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Thank god for that, I don't like it when you tall boys come a long and trash my moves. ;)
You're right about the right hand variant. I have dabbled on this but the problem right again is my main focus at the moment. Standing start, pull on with the crappy crimps and lurch for the Swing Time spike. I really don't know hard this will be, I can only just pull on at the moment.
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Have you guys got any pictures to tease me with whilst i'm stuck away from the lime?
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When you say tease, do you mean naked ladies, lesbians kissing...... :whistle:
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hows about a pair of hot semi-nekkid dungaree-wearers playing tonsil lacrosse at rubicon?
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Now you're talking, which problems are they hanging off?
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hot fun.
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Very Good
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Something at beginners wall would be better, unless you were serious about the dungarees...
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There are a couple here, I can't post the final link but navigate as follows :
Go to :
http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/home.htm
Then under brands click on Red Chill, then sponsored climbers, then UK sponsored climbers, then Neil Travers click here to read more....
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Paul's exact words were : "it's a pathetic little one move thing. just to right of love of money. can't remember what holds it uses. two poorish ones up to a sloping break thing?"
I don't know where that route is, so I just guessed it must go up from the juggy ledge somewhere. Andy B reckoned it did.
I haven't tried what I thought must be Paul's thing, but on looking at that piece of the wall last time I was there with Cheekbones, I thought the only plausible line it must take is just right of the corner (of Love of Money...?) from low, into a poorish looking pinch block, probably matching on something poor near here, and reaching up and right into the slopey left hand end of the big break. This is to the left of the nice undercuts usually used to reach into the break. This could be totally wrong as I haven't even pulled on, but I couldn't see anywhere else it could go, between Love of Money and the undercuts dave mentions. If it's right it looks a decent line.
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All there is that matches that description are 'warm-up' problems. The basic line using everything is about 6c, the hardest about 7a+. Dave and Myself have climbed on this bit of rock a lot and there is nothing of 7b+ standard there.
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All there is that matches that description are 'warm-up' problems. The basic line using everything is about 6c, the hardest about 7a+. Dave and Myself have climbed on this bit of rock a lot and there is nothing of 7b+ standard there.
Interesting. What I described looked harder than 6c, but it's always hard to tell just by looking. Paul has obviously done something on that bit of rock and he doesn't seem prone to overgrading. Assuming then that it's an eliminate, it could do anything. Saying the hardest eliminate on there is 7a+ is a bold statement to make.
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Fair enough! You could eliminate the footholds then you'd be fucked.
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I went and did "Advanced Training" this morning, using the same sequence as you (Neil). Its a really good move, made all the more tricky by the ever-damp pocket. For someone of my height (6ft on the button), its probably only 7c+ though. Keep us updated on the project...
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I went and did Advanced Training as well today. Nice holds and moves. I also did what I thought would be Paul's problem, but, as Scouse said, this is no where near 7b+. It is a good problem though: from the juggy ledge to a sidepull/undercut pinch, then up to two slopers and reach right to the juggy ledge. I haven't got a scoobies what Paul's problem could be.
Dutch and I also did a couple of new problems about 50 metres down the road from Sean's Roof. On the same side of the road, is a large low amphitheatre of rock. This is mostly easy and blocky. On the left hand side is a roof. The left hand side of this roof is a juggy 6a problem. The centre of the roof, from jugs at the back reaching into flake holds then blocky holds just under the lip by bridging on the plinth to the right. Cut loose and do a couple of fun moves to turn the lip, then pull up jugs to tickle the tree above. 7a? We had fun, but it isn't as good as anything else in the dale, I wouldn't rush to do it, unless your in Blackwell Dale and stuck for something to play on.
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Nice one woz, thought it might be a bit easier if you were a bit taller than me, anyway it's all about the quality of the move not the difficulty so pleased to here you enjoyed it.
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I was at beginners wall last night and met n-man. He told me about a 7a problem through a roof in a small bay up near Sean's roof. Basically walk down from Sean's roof and then up the bank on the same side of the road. Start at the back on the obvious large hold and follow hand holds straight out in the crack to a really hard footless move to get round the lip with feet circling round right on the wall of the roof as far as the footless move. It's no way 7a it's more like 7b+/7c so I don't know if holds have come off, I know I pulled off a nice sharp 3 finger hold near the lip which made things a grade harder. Anybody know anything about this problem name grade etc? It's actually quite a good problem and just about worth the bash through the nettles.
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I was at beginners wall last night and met n-man. He told me about a 7a problem through a roof in a small bay up near Sean's roof. Basically walk down from Sean's roof and then up the bank on the same side of the road. Start at the back on the obvious large hold and follow hand holds straight out in the crack to a really hard footless move to get round the lip with feet circling round right on the wall of the roof as far as the footless move. It's no way 7a it's more like 7b+/7c so I don't know if holds have come off, I know I pulled off a nice sharp 3 finger hold near the lip which made things a grade harder. Anybody know anything about this problem name grade etc? It's actually quite a good problem and just about worth the bash through the nettles.
Are my posts invisible to you travs? ;)
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Oh come on Andy B I've got better things to do than troll through 5 pages of Peak Lime additions reading every post. Give me a clue - please ;D
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Try the post above yours (three posts up).
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Fair play - that wasn't exactly hidden was it :oops:
What were the holds like on the lip to make the footless move when you did the problem? Last night I ended up with left hand on undercut halfway through roof, right on poor sloping pinch thing, feet off. Spin and left hand comes to nothing thing left of left hand then move left hand again round lip - pretty stiff move.
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With our hands the same as yours, we then cutloose and inverted to face out, left foot in the break then right foot toe hooking round the lip, and twisted round to get good holds above the lip with our left, to carefully campus to the tree.
While we are on, I did Advanced Training with the same holds but a totally different sequence:
Starting left hand in the 1/2 finger pocket, I did a big cross through to the nice vertical 2/3 finger slot that you used for your left thumb, stepped my left foot up onto the higher edge, and locked off to reach holds on Man of Steel with my left hand. Really nice flowing moves on nice holds.
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I'm guessing from this that you're pretty tall then Andy? There's no way I could leave my left foot in the break, you should try my footless move. Also on advanced training I don't think I could use your sequence as I can only just reach the slot with my left hand, I am at full stretch, just how tall are you?
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I was talking about the break by your hand, near the lip of the roof.
5'10" with a 5'8" span (-2" ape index).
On A T it's a shorter or at least similar reach cos you go to the bottom of the slot rather than the crimp above.
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Fair enough Andy, I'll have a look at your new sequence on AT, still 7c+ or easier / harder? Also you're pretty brave putting your foot up high on the roof problem as those holds in the roof are pretty explosive! Do I know you, do you climb at the Works?
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I'm not so hot on grades (unless I'm refuting one of Johnny Brown's ludicrous claims), but I'd say it was harder than Neil's Wall SS but easier than Recreational Violence LH.
I only go to the works very occasionally, usually during prolonged rainy spells in the winter, but I don't think we've met.
I can tell you that you have made dave's day by saying I must be tall. He's astounded by how much deeper I can lock off than him, so thinks I must be secretly tall in some way, when actually he's just incredibly weak.
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Well Dave will just have to train a bit harder I guess.
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I like to think what i lack in strength i make up for in reach. Works for me.
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I was at beginners wall last night and met n-man. He told me about a 7a problem through a roof in a small bay up near Sean's roof. Basically walk down from Sean's roof and then up the bank on the same side of the road. Start at the back on the obvious large hold and follow hand holds straight out in the crack to a really hard footless move to get round the lip with feet circling round right on the wall of the roof as far as the footless move. It's no way 7a it's more like 7b+/7c so I don't know if holds have come off, I know I pulled off a nice sharp 3 finger hold near the lip which made things a grade harder. Anybody know anything about this problem name grade etc? It's actually quite a good problem and just about worth the bash through the nettles.
Are my posts invisible to you travs? ;)
Looked at your 7a prob in roof near Seans Sunday. Appeared two good holds on lip. Showed Travs on Tues. One good hold gone, he pulled the other off (fat bas***d) and then proceeded to campus through the roof after two moves. Done several 7c's recently couldn't touch it.
Awesome effort finding the roof as it a proper nettle bash even after trail blazers have gone through.
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Are the Neil's Wall problems likely to be dry or at least dryable today after the showers of the past few days? Not been before but was thinking of having a look this pm as the forecast is for it to be HOT. Also, are the landings ok as I've yet to purchase a new pad so am still only protected by lagers' ancient S7 pancake? :-\
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i would have thought they'd be Ok - you could get some seepage in isolated spots but you can generally climb around it there. neil's wall itself will probably be the last thing to seep anyway, which is good cos its the main event really.
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Looking at the rainguage on www.buxtonweather.co.uk (http://www.buxtonweather.co.uk) it seems that Sheffield has been getting more rain than the limestone side of the peak recently.
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Nice one, ta. ;D
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Landings are perfect Jasper, but if you've only one mat don't push it too far in as the probs are deceptively steep and you come off further back than expected - assuming you fall off of course. ;)
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Cheers Neil, thought they looked ok from the pics I've seen but you can never be sure. I would imagine that I will certainly be falling off, a lot.
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I did the steep prow that forms the left edge of Sean's Roof today. From a low sit start on the horizontal rail (No cheeky crouching starts) work directly up the prow on crozzley crimps to the slopey break, then use undercuts in the crack to reach over the capping roof to a finishing hold on the edge (dug out) of the grass at the top. Really good moves, and felt comparitively long, but slow drying. I'm not sure of the grade cos I have dodgy fingers at the mo, but maybe in the 7b+/c range?
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word, effort etc. is this the thing with some obvious cleaned holds (welford proj?) or are we talking to the left of that?
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The prow to the left of the obvious cleaned and wierdly polished incut crimps that are on the left sidewall of the roof.
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Blimey, it's actually dry! Good stuff, remember thinking that might be worthwhile.
What's the general state of that cave at the moment? I've looked at bits and pieces in there but it's always been wet in the past.
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Blimey, it's actually dry! Good stuff, remember thinking that might be worthwhile.
What's the general state of that cave at the moment? I've looked at bits and pieces in there but it's always been wet in the past.
Yeah, I've been waiting literally months for it to dry out. Even today there were still a few damp holds, particularly at the start, requiring regular rags, chalk and brushing. The rest of the cave was probably still too wet to do anything else at the moment I would guess, but I'm sure I've seen the right hand side dry before.
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Where does it all come from? Seepage or drainage? Just wondering if it might be possible to divert the water somehow. That cave does seem to be eternally soggy, but it must have stayed dry for reasonable periods in the past. Perhaps it will dry out in the next few weeks...
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I think it's just regular seepage. The only way to reduce it would be to dig up the tons of foliage and soil from on top. Sean's Roof has always been very slow to dry and rarely in condition as far as I know. The prow is more compact than the rest of the rock in the cave, and will hopefully dry faster now I've scrubbed some of the limestone gunk off it. I'll probably go back soon and clean it more to try and encourage that.
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Sounds like you've put a fair bit of work into tidying and digging. Good work, man! Does the prow have a name? Any photos?
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Didn't dig too much. I just brushed enough soil away to reveal a decent finishing hold. I'll try and think off a decent name tomorrow. I got it on video, but you may have to bear with me for a little while before you see it, cos I'm trying to gather footage for a Blackwell Dale Short.
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if anyone's interested, most of the beginner's wall stuff was v dry today, including the often wet holds nr the start of swing time etc.
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I'm also trying the wall just right, inbetween this and Neil's wall. Basically pull on with the shitiest crimps in the world and lurch for the big spike on Swing Time. Do you know of anybody else who might have tried this? I'm getting closer to this but I'm still a few months of being able to do it I think.
Standing start, pull on with the crappy crimps and lurch for the Swing Time spike. I really don't know hard this will be, I can only just pull on at the moment.
I did this tonight. Nice stiff pull.
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That is a mighty fine effort Mr B :thumbsup: Those crimps really are very very small. You will of course have to stick your neck out and offer the obligatory grade!
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Mike Adams was on this last year from a sitter.
Think he said a little harder than N's wall but not as hard as RV
Dont know if this is any help but I reckon maybe hard 7c+
Tony S
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I deffo have a hazy memory of dolph saying he'd done that move, did he every work out the sitter tony?
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Cant quite remember Dave, I seam to think he did, but I will ask next time I speak with him.
Great looking problem from watch Mike climb it.
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Its not really news but this seems the place to mention this to those who like to crimp. I was a beginners wall this morning with Tony S for the first time for a long time. I managed to do the direct to the swing time jug from a sit start. This goes into the crappy crimps and then lurches for the Swing Time spike, exactly as the stand up mentioned. The crux is getting both hands established on the crimps which is tricky.
I think being a stone lighter than usual helped with this over last year? Oh and beginners was in the best condition i have ever seen which probably helped too.
Not only do i feel like i finished some unfinished buisness but its nice that this little wall feels a bit more complete now
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Jeez, Mike, not you dieting too?
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I looked at this last Saturday - very grim, conditions wise. The topo on UKB states 7c+ for the stand up (crap crimps to spike) Is this correct? Does this mean the sitter goes at around 8a (again, I seem to remember pretty big footholds, possibly allowing for balancing out the match well)?
Good effort anyhow, those crimps are shite.
Also, RV climbed on the left at 8a - this was pretty hard to work out - obvious for hands, but whats in/out for your feet to get the tick?
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I did Recreational Violence Left Hand with my feet pretty much directly underneath my body the whole way.
Nice one on the sitter to the crimps problem Mike. I am keen to do this, but have never found the starting holds dry enough. Did you use the mono in the break for your right hand?
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No I'm not dieting! The weight loss was do to a bug i had last week which knocked me for six and when i came out the other end i was a stone lighter. A much easier way to lose weight but i wouldn't recommend it!
I don't recall a mono in a break?? Its hard to describe the starting holds i used, but its quite easy to pull up and get to the crimps with one hand because of the large footholds mentioned. It just feels hard to get established on them because they are small and your feet start to feel too far under you.
Grade wise i don't really have a clue i suppose it felt harder than advanced training which is next door. :shrug:
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i'm not interested in this shit boulder problem but rather your shits. did you get them at andy's bbq? i had another to go to straight after but spent over 2 hours on the toilet! that said i was very light the next day
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i've come to expect nothing less from you lee! (Although hanging the crimp holds does feel a bit like your on a finger board?
No i didn't get ill from andys party, it was well after that and i think a lot worse than food poisening.
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Polish Dave climbed a new line at the Tor today. Straight up from the first big lip hold on Keen Roof, via a couple of small crimps, to finish on jugs. Name and grade: Hook, 7c.
Would make a desperate direct finish for Keen Roof...
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Someone get Nacho back!
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Polish Dave climbed a new line at the Tor today. Straight up from the first big lip hold on Keen Roof, via a couple of small crimps, to finish on jugs. Name and grade: Hook, 7c.
Would make a desperate direct finish for Keen Roof...
word has he finshed off KR yet?
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Nope, it's becoming a bit of an epic. Close, but nary a cigar. Hopefully soon.
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doctrine (http://www.entertonement.com/clips/qtkcmfhcdk--This-organization-will-not-tolerate-failureMike-Myers-Austin-Powers-International-Man-of-Mystery-Dr-Evil-)
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Me n Dave did possibly another new one at the Tor - as for Weedkiller, but finish up the unobvious line between Basher's problem and Weedkiller finish, to gain the big flake beneath the roof. May have been done before, but the holds were all dusty and most people aren't this desperate. Quite nice though. Name and grade, Weedfiller, 7b.
Oh yes, and I might have left my hat at raven tor, so if anyone spots it, please hang on to it for me. Ta.
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Hi Rman,
Think this has been done before as i can rember being shown this back in the day. But good name for it.
NEW PROBLEMS AT Begginers Wall
Mike Adams (who else) on Saturday completed what is probably the only 2 lines left unclimbed.
1. Aurora Fb 7c
Climb the wall to the right of the grove (right of RV).
SS as for Dans prob but then head left and up the imposing overhanging wall via a heel hook, side pulls and crimps to gain the obvious 2 large edges. *** climbing according to Mike.
2 Neils Wall RH Fb8a
The wall to the right of NW vial a ss, the triangle crimp, toe hook and slot.
looks hard and impossible if your short.
Pics are on my face book for anyone who knows me or Mike and if you can link them please do.
Cheers
Tony
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As your requested T
Aurora
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs133.snc1/5700_155455902463_548497463_3948050_2346164_n.jpg)
(http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs153.snc1/5700_155455942463_548497463_3948055_4558460_n.jpg)
Neil's Wall RH
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs133.snc1/5700_155455967463_548497463_3948058_1148759_n.jpg)
(http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs153.snc1/5700_155455997463_548497463_3948063_4592514_n.jpg)
Psyched for the Peak Lime and good to see Vixen waiting patiently for her stick (that is likely placed just where Mike will land if he fails!) :thumbsup:
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Cheers for that Richie,
and your not wrong the stick is best placed for anal exam if a bad landing occurred.
T
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Neils Wall RH sounds bloody hard for 8a. How long did it take Mike cos he's a stone lighter than normal and climbing well?
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He did the stand up in one session thinking this would be the hard part and had done lots of stuff earlier so did not get the ss that day.
Second session on was Saturday and he cleaned tried and did Aurora before jumping on this.
I think it will be harder knowing Mike well and how he so confused when it comes to grades. He wanted to give it 7c+ but i talked him out of that.
It is a pretty long reach for the toe hook and to gain the slot, so any mortal at 6ft or under i dont think stands a chance.
He says harder than RV but then easier than some of the other stuff he has done recently like the 7c at fossil wall so 8a it was.
hope this helps to confuse you even more (i know i am)
T
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More (possibly) new stuff at the Tor. Dave climbed a direct finish to the cave problem – sitstart as for that, then instead of heading to the Weedkiller jug, finish straight up at a jug next to the bolt - Shades of Grey, 7c+.
I linked Weedkiller into the finish of this – Wee Dimension, 7b+
Also, I linked the cave problem ss into Basher's problem, via Perverse Reverse. Has anyone done this before? It's a brilliant set of moves, especially as it turns out you can do Basher's without the nasty crimp. If no-one's done this before, I think it deserves a name - Tumbleweed, 7c+.
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nice one - i tried that Shades Of Grey a couple of years ago but thought i was going to snap my leg in the heeltoe.
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nice one - i tried that Shades Of Grey a couple of years ago but thought i was going to snap my leg in the heeltoe.
Should have used your foot instead :P
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luckily my heel and toe are part of my foot...... ::)
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Ah, my mistake, I thought you were trying to put your leg into the heel/toe. :P
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nice one - i tried that Shades Of Grey a couple of years ago but thought i was going to snap my leg in the heeltoe.
Dave and I have different methods for the top section, but we both take the heel/toe out after doing the bottom bit. Heel/toes are scary.
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i'm guessing you're doing something like getting the flat RH hold thing then slapping big over up and left to that big flatty on chimes etc?
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Yup. Dave just slaps away (though he uses a pinch to the left rather than the flatty). I get a heel on the hold to the right of the flatty. There's an intermediate slopey crimp you can hit before making the final blind slap to the jug.
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Also, I linked the cave problem ss into Basher's problem, via Perverse Reverse. Has anyone done this before? It's a brilliant set of moves, especially as it turns out you can do Basher's without the nasty crimp. If no-one's done this before, I think it deserves a name - Tumbleweed, 7c+.
I did Tumbleweed on sun and reckon it is 8a, as did the second ascentionist. Its a lot harder than Ben's Roof and although there are no desparate moves, there are a lot of 'ard ones! Nice and dry at the moment, get it while you can!
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Nice one! As I'm sure you gathered yesterday, I was made up that people were trying it. I called it Tumbleweed partly because I thought no one else would be interested.
reckon it is 8a, as did the second ascentionist.
:dance1:
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I was made up that people were trying it. I called it Tumbleweed partly because I thought no one else would be interested.
I'd be keen for this, its something I'd eyed up in previous years but never tried cos I always had something else on the burn. I went towards the end of the summer but some holds were wet every time. Probably have to wait till next year now.
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More (possibly) new stuff at the Tor. Dave climbed a direct finish to the cave problem – sitstart as for that, then instead of heading to the Weedkiller jug, finish straight up at a jug next to the bolt - Shades of Grey, 7c+.
I linked Weedkiller into the finish of this – Wee Dimension, 7b+
I did the 2nd ascent of Shades of Grey today, I reckon its 7c although I have got the Cave Problem wired. its a good problem and independant of Chimes once you are on the holds.
I didn't manage to do Wee Dimension though, maybe that is the same grade, its certainly a lot more endurancy - feels a bit of a sandbag at 7b+!
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Nice one. I thought SoG would be 7c with the heel beta. Dave did it with a huge throw, definitely much harder than using the heel.
Wee Dimension grade was a complete guess - I've got Weedkiller so wired, it felt ok to me. I don't think it's as hard as Killerweed though. :shrug:
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I did Wee Dimension yesterday, I reckon 7b+, a nice pumpy link - just a touch easier than Shades of Grey although its longer.
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As for Tor, anyone has tried Hook yet ?
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I tried it last week briefly with another Tor regular, it seems like a cool problem, hard though! You really have to bone down on the first sharp crimp for the RH. A tiny piece of the crimp broke under my first finger when I was pulling on it but I don't think this affects the problem at all. I touched the high crimp for the LH but not with enough power to hold it. Look forward to trying it again soon.
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A tiny piece of the crimp broke under my first finger when I was pulling on it
You fat bastard Ted!
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Maybe I should stick to the established lines!
Hook is a cool problem, you do need at least 4 pads tho as the landing is a bit sloping. Makes a change from Ben's Roof anyhow!
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someone remind me what the fuck hook is.
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someone remind me what the fuck hook is.
[img]http://revivingrights.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/captain-hook-disney1.jpg[/url]
The baddie from Peter Pan :P
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Its the crimps going up above the flat hold on the lip of Keen Roof
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Yo,
is there a definitive list for RavenTor problems? Got Ru's guide but guessing there is a lot more Local knowledge, on the eliminates/ rules etc.
Cheers
Tim
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Here's a pic of Dave on Hook
(http://www.peakbouldering.info/photos/205.jpg)
Tim - your best bet is to corner a local at the crag.
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someone remind me what the fuck hook is.
(http://revivingrights.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/captain-hook-disney1.jpg)
The baddie from Peter Pan :P
Damn my typing and lack of attention :oops:
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i was thinking more dustin hoffman.
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i was thinking more dustin hoffman.
:) Was going to go with one of Hoffman, but all those on the first page of Google Images were a bit wank so went with the more traditional cartoon image.
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Broke a foothold on the cave problem/tumbleweed etc today - the little one in the roof that you can use to put the heel on the jug. There's still a small edge there, just a bit worse, and the move is the same just a little harder.. I've still got the hold (in 2 pieces) if anyone wants to stick it back on, not that I think it'd really be worth it.
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Is the broken foothold the sharp little spike that looked quite fragile that is below your hands when they are in the starting slot/jug of the standup start? If so, probably not worth gluing it although please hang onto the piece and i will inspect it when I am next down.
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Don't think it's the one you're talking about if I've understood right.. It's the one Robin uses here to switch from toe on the Weedkiller jug to heel-toe: Tumbleweed, 8A (http://www.vimeo.com/7318413)
Clearly too many flapjacks for me...
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Oh right, i know the one, it was really polished and black from all the boot rubber. I guess if its gone and the move is still possible and not massively harder then it should be left just like they are not bothering to fix Dreamtime, although I hesitate to mention this in the same sentence as Tumbleweed!
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there's loads of ways to do that bit of the roof thing, many of which don't use that foothold at all. I suggest leaving it.
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Some limestone esoterica... A few months ago Dawid and I climbed a 15 move roof line in Odin Cave near Castleton. It crosses a completely horizontal groove, with all manner of unlikely techniques and bizarre moves: underclinging grit like slopers, a desperate toehook lunge, a drop-down on a backhand pocket... I had so much fun climbing this! We've been keeping it quiet for ages in the hope that we'd get round to finishing off some of the other lines, but it hasn't happened, so might as well share...
The Dark Room, 8A
Sitstart at the left end of the obvious groove at the back of the cave. Follow this rightwards to finish matched on the jug. You could top out up the slimey chimney if you wanted.
There's also a 7A+ that climbs into the same jug from an obvious sitter at the back. If you are making a visit, probably best to wait for a dry spell. A tarp is always useful to cover the wet bit on the floor. To reach the cave, drive to Winnat's pass and turn right just before the pass. The cave is at the end of the road, on the left.
http://www.deadpointmag.com/dpm-hd/72-dark-room-v11-peak-district-uk (http://www.deadpointmag.com/dpm-hd/72-dark-room-v11-peak-district-uk)
Video was shot at night - you can climb without headtorches during daytime.
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drive to Winnat's pass and turn right don't turn left just before the pass
Props on checking out unlikely spots. Been here a few times but never thought of climbing.
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Looks well good that. Shall have to get me-sen down there next summer.
Nice one.
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I've just done a sex wee.
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Yeah, that looks well cool, good effort.
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Went and did The Dark Room this morning and the moves are indeed very fun.
As of this morning it was completely dry on the problem and as we have had about 17 consecutive weeks of rain then I am guessing it stays dry a lot of the time. It was quite dark in there (cloudy day) and for me it was a bit easier wearing a head tourch (once I had it tight enough so it didn't fall off mid problem)
Being a bit of a stump I couldn't get the kneebar for the move to the backhand pocket (crux section at the end) so I ended up spining round the other way (with feet towards the back of the cave) but I don't think this will have made much difference to the grade.
The other lines looked a fair bit harder!
(don't get too excited though, at the moment it is a little dank and dark in there - the rain pooring down at the lip of the cave makes it feel like being behind a waterfall, and the only way I could keep Klem in the cave was to tie him up, he prefered sulking in the rain outside and attacking any passing tourists.)
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Went and did The Dark Room this morning and the moves are indeed very fun.
Great! Pleased you enjoyed.
As of this morning it was completely dry on the problem and as we have had about 17 consecutive weeks of rain then I am guessing it stays dry a lot of the time.
That's good to know - I haven't been recently, so wasn't sure how it would fare in winter weather. It can suffer from condensation on humid days though.
The other lines looked a fair bit harder!
Much!
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Couple more ascents for tumbleweed today, El Mocho and John Cooke. Didn't see how Ben did it, but John didn't use the nasty footlock which rags your knee. (Strong!)