UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Buoux 8C on November 16, 2005, 10:02:21 pm
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Once again the king of grit strikes,
This time Voyager, V13 at burbage North, the hanging arete on the Sphinx. it amazes me how someone can be at the cutting edge for so many years. What possibly can be next for Undoubtedly the best climber on grit.
https://www.moonclimbing.com/index.php?form_action=moonblog&moonblog_id=56
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very good effort. :D
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word that is a good line - i believe its been tried before by others anall. did someone tell me huffy had been on it, or did i dream that?
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Yeah i was trying that too...fell off last move last time i was out there :(
I was trying it from standing start tho, I guess ben did it from low?
Rich is right, he is like a gritstone duracell bunny!
Amazing effort.
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I was trying it from standing start tho, I guess ben did it from low?
a jump start apparentley.
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the full line is still on then...go on. go on cockfingers.
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Noticed it was well chalked on Satdy. Now I know why. Top effort! As I was saying on Sat, it was the best unclimbed boulder problem in the Peak.
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Yeah, it's gotta be a contender for one of the best grit lines, It's actually quite scary too; when you slap round the lip it suddenly becomes a scary upside-down prow.
Low start would be hard, if only for the amount of skin loss from your thumb webing!
Oh how i wanted to climb that that...was gonna call it 'northern baseline' and everything...oh none of this matters now! :wink:
Gonna be a good season on the grit
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Where does it actually start - do you climb the rof bit from the back, or jump to holds later on?
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Gosh. Well done that moon!
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Vid should be up on the Moon site by lunch. No messin eh?
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King of grit?
Coincidentally, you're not sponsored by him are you?
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King of grit?
Coincidentally, you're not sponsored by him are you?
well he has done every 8b ( i think) on grit.
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King of grit?
Coincidentally, you're not sponsored by him are you?
well he has done every 8b ( i think) on grit.
I'm sure you're right (I have no idea).
Being an old punter, I find anything other than piss-taking/abuse uncomfortably fluffy/american.
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Shocking, anyone would think that Frankenjura9a was just bigging up a mate or something :wink:
Definitely time for a list of all the 8bs (and above) on grit and their ascentionists (most of which I don't know, you bumpy boys fill them in)....
The Ace - FA: Moffat - Repeats: Smith, Moon, ?
Brad Pit sitter + jump - FA: Willenburg - Repeats: 0
8Ball - FA: Moon - Repeats: Smith?, ?
Voyage - FA: Moon - Repeats: 0
High Fidelity - FA: Dunning - Repeats: Moon, ?
Cypher - FA: Moon - Repeats: Dunning, ?
Stanworth Slab - FA: Gaskins - Repeats: 0
....ummmm....?
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What is this 'bigging up' you speak of?
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8Ball - FA: Moon - Repeats: Smith?, ?
Boux 8C, Bransby, Ivan Tresch(?), Gaskins
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What is this 'bigging up' you speak of?
its like when you post about big frank sending his latest nidderdale test piece.
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But possibly not quite that big.
Ask the UKB gangstas, they'll explain it for you :wink:
P.S. Squeek: Oh dear :oops: I shouldn't have even bothered trying a list really :o
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What is this 'bigging up' you speak of?
its like when you post about big frank sending his latest nidderdale test piece.
I think the last time he did anything notable, it was written up in the magna carta.
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Another great effort from Ben, and what an amazing legacy stretching back over 21 years of high standard climbing to his original Statement of Youth. Sure, repeats are important, but it's the outstanding first ascents that mark the true masters.
As for the grit 8b list, you missed this:
Ullola - Caley - Steve Dunning - no repeats yet
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Ullola - Caley - Steve Dunning - no repeats yet
Where abouts is this?
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Ullola - Caley - Steve Dunning - no repeats yet
Where abouts is this?
pinic boulder or there abouts.its a big slopey lip traverse i think.
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It was listed as a project in the 2000 guide - page 145, boulder 13, problem 5. IIRC Steve did two versions of it, one V12 and one with a harder finish at V13.
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Rhythm. Has Bohemian Groove been downgraded?
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is anyone else timing out trying to connect to moon website?
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Rhythm was downgraded to 8a by Tim Clifford, although it appears (apparently) that the holds had changed significantly since Steve's ascent, presumably through over brushing by person(s) unknown.
Bohemian Grove also lost it's big grade when it was repeated.
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is anyone else timing out trying to connect to moon website?
yea, me. whats up with that?
do you use mozilla?
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over brushing
A euphemism for the c word? Shame.
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Rhythm was downgraded to 8a by Tim Clifford, although it appears (apparently) that the holds had changed significantly since Steve's ascent, presumably through over brushing by person(s) unknown.
i'd heard the big downgrade of rhythm was a return favour for steve doing clifford's project (high fidelity). Dunno how much truth there is in that though. but you know what they say, theres no smoke without fire. although dry ice machines disprove this.
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At a guess, the video has been uploaded to the servers and because the news with a link to the web site is on most of the popular climbing web sites everyone's trying to access it and are overloading the servers. Leave it for a while and it'll be ok.
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Thought of another. In order of repeats (I do like lists)...
8Ball - FA: Moon - Repeats: Smith, Boux 8C, Bransby, Ivan Tresch(?), Gaskins
The Ace - FA: Moffat - Repeats: Smith, Moon, ?
High Fidelity - FA: Dunning - Repeats: Moon, ?
Cypher - FA: Moon - Repeats: Dunning, ?
Brad Pit sitter + jump - FA: Willenburg - Repeats: 0
Voyager - FA: Moon - Repeats: 0
Ullola - Caley FA: Steve Dunning - Repeats: 0
Stanworth Slab - FA: Gaskins - Repeats: 0
Close of Business - FA: Ste Mcclure - Repeats: 0
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(I do like lists)...
no shit.
might employ you to do my weekly shopping list. will stop me buying tungsten tip screws ("never gonna use them Lynn, never gonna use them").
also. what about 'close of business'. or is that 8b+?
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That was the other one that I thought of. See end of list.
The shopping sounds like fun. I'll add it to my list of things to do.
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Good effort! Should we be waiting for an immenant repeat from the other climbing god aka.....Huffy?
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tim cliffords done 8 ball.
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You can add Mick Adams to the list for 8Ball.
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Is 8-Ball really 8b?
I'm convinced Mooney did it an 8b way, but from what I've seen and heard there is a fair bit of trickery and foot beta, fairly sure Gaskins thought it was soft at the grade.
Mind you it is a traverse, so maybe thats Fnt-Traverse 8b :wink:
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How dare you!! :) It's in the Peak, it must be 8b.
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But why no Egyptian name?
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Good effort! Should we be waiting for an immenant repeat from the other climbing god aka.....Huffy?
:lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :lool: :eek3: :lool: :clapclap: :fart:
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But why no Egyptian name?
dunno, maybe he's in de nile.
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i love the lancaster tag team comedy duo.
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Oh dear. I guess you probably would have exploded if you hadn't let that pun out. And then there would have been puns everywhere, and we would have had to get special pun detectors to make sure the ground was safe to walk on. Or a member of the royal family. They have special noses.
Anyway, for the listmongers...
8Ball - FA: Moon - Repeats: Smith, Boux 8C, Bransby, Ivan Tresch(?), Gaskins, Tim Clifford, Mike Adams
The Ace - FA: Moffat - Repeats: Smith, Moon, ?
High Fidelity - FA: Dunning - Repeats: Moon, ?
Cypher - FA: Moon - Repeats: Dunning, ?
Brad Pit sitter + jump - FA: Willenburg - Repeats: 0
Voyager - FA: Moon - Repeats: 0
Ullola - Caley FA: Steve Dunning - Repeats: 0
Stanworth Slab - FA: Gaskins - Repeats: 0
Close of Business - FA: Ste Mcclure - Repeats: 0
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hasnt Clifford climbed cypher?
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i love the lancaster tag team comedy duo.
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Speaking of duo's, what does Devon 8a get in croydon?
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hasnt Clifford climbed cypher?
He's certainly been on it, though I can't find any mention of a repeat on tinternet...
(http://www.deepbleu.net/img/tim_cypher_lrg.jpg)
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vid now on moonclimbing.
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http://www.moonclimbing.com/videos/voyager.mov
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vid now on moonclimbing.
Nice looking problem - BM looks as strong as F too..
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Plenty of chalk on cypher on saturday (including the top holds) so it looks like some-one else has been on it, JG perhaps?
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King of Grit, but not King Of Climbing Video Clips.
Can't he get some decent quality video once in a while? It's a pity to have such a memorable problem reduced to a pixelly blur :?
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but there can be no doubts :roll:
was there sunday, awesome
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I checked out voyager this Saturday (I mean I looked at it) - very impressive line that looks well scary. It still needs a low start though.
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great when the guy (ben pritchard?) gets his phone out top tell everyone immediately...
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yeh, that bit was amazing
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Comical footage, was Pritch pissed or something?
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yeh, that bit was amazing
it was so funny i nearly pissed myself....
:roll:
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i genuinely lol'ed at denses reply if that counts
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Plenty of chalk on cypher on saturday (including the top holds) so it looks like some-one else has been on it, JG perhaps?
I wonder if Ian Cummins has been back on it, he was doing fairly well up until a week before it was done.
Doing it Old Skool with a rope no mat and a towel....
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What was he using the rope for? Worth noting spoony needed the thickness of a couple of mats to pull, first move is grim without.
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Worth noting spoony needed the thickness of a couple of mats to pull, first move is grim without.
Are you talking about Voyage or Cypher?
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don't worry buoux, he's talking about cypher.
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Well then its worth noting that johhny brown dosent have a clue.
One boulder mat beneath a problem is acceptable, he didnt need the thickness of several pads to pull on.
And if your trying to say that its wrong to stand on a single pad before a problem or it changes the grade, then pretty much everyones tick list will be halfed.
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it's also worth noting JB watched BM make the first ascent. where there were multiple pads. regardless. Jb's point was that the first move is some reach, even for tallish people. and would be nails if you were dinky. not that a few pads makes it easy.
can we have a pinch of salt emoticon please?
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yes i am sure their where alot of pads, i would want alot of pads if i where to try that line, its high and dynamic and coul easily cause a twisted ankle.
However i am sure that ben didnt need pads stacked on top of each other to make the first move which is what Jb implied.
if you where to look at the footage of ben moon repeating cypher again, you will see that he is able to climb the problem with just one bouler mat lying flat on the ground, therfore not needing he thickness of a couple of mats to pull
which JB implies.
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i'll let the young lady fight her own battles.
anyway:
(https://www.moonclimbing.com/images/photo/photo_56_lg.jpg)
such a good line. how did it hold out so long (paul?!?). nice to see giza well chalked there too.
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how did it hold out so long (paul?!?).
Moony said it bites your skin. You have to pay a blood price to work it.
I couldn't even pull on for very long on the old V7 version, using those hand holds as footholds at the start.
I'd've liked another Egyptian name - Voyager's quite cool though - is BM a trekky?
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yes i am sure their where alot of pads, i would want alot of pads if i where to try that line, its high and dynamic and coul easily cause a twisted ankle.
However i am sure that ben didnt need pads stacked on top of each other to make the first move which is what Jb implied.
if you where to look at the footage of ben moon repeating cypher again, you will see that he is able to climb the problem with just one bouler mat lying flat on the ground, therfore not needing
I realise you don't like to hear Ben slighted, however as Cofe has pointed out, I was there on the first ascent. Ben told he found it much more difficult to pull on without the pads (as I recall, one folded underneath one unfolded, on top of the start block). The Bransby and I made some quips about it being cheating, Ben clearly didn't give a toss and his ascent was one of the more impressive pieces of climbing I've seen. I haven't seen the video but it wouldn't surprise me if on his subsequent ascent(s?) he sought to improve on the original. I'm sure if you ask Ben he will corroborate my story, he was certainly honest enough about it at the time. Beware of putting people on pedestals, they tend to jump off :wink:
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cofe wrote:
how did it hold out so long (paul?!?).
Aww, C'mon man! :wink:
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I was actually lucky enough to see Ben repeat Cypher in less than favourable conditions. One pad, and he pissed it - nuff said. However, if you cannot reach a starting hold off one pad, and someone who is 4 inches taller than imaginary short person can, is this really that bad? I think not, within reason.
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Agree with that. Not into this tsk tsk attitude, it's bollocks.
Hows tricks Chris, heard theres snow on the tops back home...that true?
Climbing much?
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I've not tried Cypher, but if I went and tried it, and could do it all except reach the established starting holds (and there was no feasable way of starting lower) I'd probably stack a mat to reach them rather than not doing it. Unless I had to stack many mats in which case I'd feel silly.
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Down with that Ru - at the end of the day, you pretty much know when its taking the piss. Hey Huffy - there is snow. Unfortunatley, in true welsh style, it is now turning to sleet/rain, so it will be fucked by the end of the day, I dare say. Wales at the minute is good - lots of hardcorness awaiting just around the corner... see ya soon man.
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Down with that Ru - at the end of the day, you pretty much know when its taking the piss.
I've often had ethical dilema's in font with problems that were desparate to start. I can remember a good few years ago when we went to have a look (and very amitious play on) karma. Talking of taking the piss - Dutch Master Killer had to give me a bunk up to reach the flake. It was far more dangerous ( and probably more difficult) doing this move than just jumping to the first hold. I Certainly didn't want to trash my skin trying this when I realistically stood no chance of completing it. That said though I have had the same dilema on 6a's.
Looking at the piccie above there looks like (well hard) variations a bound, the move from where he is up/left into the original 7a version looks desparate. Does the original finsih up the nose, or go up the groove?
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not sure exactly where you mean scuffler, but the sphinx (E5 in old money) traverses the break up right to the end of the prow (looks hard where the break widens/flares, spacey), and straight up from the start of the sphinx is Giza which is a 7c+/7a+ wall depending on whether coefeld is trying to sendbag you or not (hard bit matching tiny break crimps, I can't do it). caan't remember what it gets in the new guide, probably like 7b+ or summert.
doing the first 2 moves of this new moon ting then rocking it out into sphinx would be good i recon. He says from the comfort of his armchair.
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not sure exactly where you mean scuffler, but the sphinx (E5 in old money) traverses the break up right to the end of the prow (looks hard where the break widens/flares, spacey.
If you look on the photo on the previous page, there is a kind of groove/scoop just before the prow (above the Moons knee). That was the finish I meant.
doing the first 2 moves of this new moon ting then rocking it out into sphinx would be good i recon. He says from the comfort of his armchair.
That was the start I meant. Maybe the armchair would be usefull for me to reach the first hold. You can probably reach the prow from the ground can't you Dave :lol:
Oooh...... this is my 100 post.
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I'd've liked another Egyptian name
Obviously everyone's ignoring me so don't feel obliged to pay attention, but after Egypt on BBC1 last night a new problem in this area could be called:
Ra!
As in, "You're a tiger... "
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Having been to cypher and tried it with 2 strong female looking climbers who have big spans, 3 pads were needed to pull on for them. I don't recon I could have pulled on with 5 pads, its fuckin nails
Whilst in font trying aerodynamite, I used 1 pad cos I could make the distance but our fellow american t-rex needed 3 to reach, I gave him the tick cos he's short and wouldn't have done it without.
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I'd've liked another Egyptian name
Obviously everyone's ignoring me so don't feel obliged to pay attention, but after Egypt on BBC1 last night a new problem in this area could be called:
Ra!
As in, "You're a tiger... "
Or:
Seth - a god of chaos, confusion, storms, wind, the desert and foreign lands
(God knows he's climbed everwhere, done everything and generally caused carnage with comments on other peoples overgrading - we're not worthy).
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Oh yeah, and when in france.....
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Came across this thread again whilst searching for summat. Are Landman and Moon the only ones to have climbed V13 on grit last winter, or are there others?
8Ball - FA: Moon - Repeats: Smith, Boux 8C, Bransby, Ivan Tresch(?), Gaskins, Tim Clifford, Mike Adams
The Ace - FA: Moffat - Repeats: Smith, Moon, Landman
High Fidelity - FA: Dunning - Repeats: Moon, ?
Cypher - FA: Moon - Repeats: Dunning, ?
Brad Pit sitter + jump - FA: Willenburg - Repeats: 0
Voyager - FA: Moon - Repeats: Landman
Ullola - Caley FA: Steve Dunning - Repeats: 0
Stanworth Slab - FA: Gaskins - Repeats: 0
Close of Business - FA: Ste Mcclure - Repeats: 0
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take your lists and fuck off
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now now
Dense, I suggest the following:
1.Locate your bed.
2.Re-enter.
3.(The tricky bit) Exit bed, but this time be very careful about which side you choose...
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it only feels like i get out on the wrong side when people start rambling on with stupid lists, which 95% of the time is you. may i suggest you quit climbing and become a statistician, or more interestingly research who exactly has done what, their dimensions, finger size etc and compare them to said problems. this can be your project till winter, surprise us then
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Philistine. Lists are poetry.
A picture tells a thousand words. A list shows a thousand pictures.
You can't analyse that too closely. Just feel it with the heart.
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I don't know where you got the 95% figure from, but perhaps you are a more avid statistician than I.
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p.s. Lists are only a small part of what I do here. But as long as there is suffering, as long as there is injustice in this world, I shall continue to fight the good fight.
p.p.s. I apologise for being obsessed with climbing. I didn't realise it irked you so much Dense. Please forgive me. I seek only to commune with kindred spirits, fellow addicts of rock and movement. I do not wish to cause unhappiness. Especially not to you Dense. Especially not to you.
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Although I don't necessarily agree with the dense one's tone, to be fair, I do agree with his sentiment; tedious lists on here do seem to come from one source.
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p.s. Lists are only a small part of what I do here. what!!!!!! you are having a laugh.
p.p.s. I apologise for being obsessed with climbing. no you are obsessed with lists
and while not wanting to b pedantic i think i may have mentioned this before. :wall:
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you are having a laugh.
Indeed I am. :lol:
This is most entertaining.
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Although I don't necessarily agree with the dense one's tone, to be fair, I do agree with his sentiment; tedious lists on here do seem to come from one source.
Taint true. The above list, for example, was originally Fiend's.
You all seem to be missing the point of lists and why I post them. They are beginnings, not endings. Triggers for stories, ramblings, banter etc. People seem to be leaning towards some bizaare idea that the only reason I take an interest in climbing is so I have fresh material for lists. People sneer at 8a.nu users and grade-chasers for similiar reasons, which is bonkers - even if people chase grades, what they get out of climbing is still a lot more than just a number. I'm very definitely a words person rather than a numbers person, so the idea that stats are the most important thing about lists doesn't make sense to me.
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I sympathise with your condition: I too am number-blind. Not even playing darts helps my arithmetic.
You can shove that Chi Square to the nth° up your Standard Deviation, Teefal man!