UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: MattH on September 13, 2004, 11:13:56 am
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Just a wee post to let you know that Heason Events has organised a series of lectures in the Lescar Hotel in Sheffield this winter:
Oct 10th - Kenton Cool - "10 Years Of Suffering!" & Keith Sharples
Oct 24th - Jerry Gore - "Peaks & Personalities" & Kevin Thaw
Nov 14th - Jamie Andrew - "Life & Limb" & Dave Lucas
Dec 5th - Jeff Lowe - "Many Climbs / Many Lessonsâ€
Jan 10th - Jim Perrin - "Book Reading – ‘The Villain – A Life Of Don Whillans'" & Sam Whittaker
Jan 23rd - Simon Yates - "Beyond The Void" & Chris Cubitt
Feb 6th - John & Anne Arran -"Journey to the lost world†& Niall Grimes (The Big Quiz)
Mar 13th - Dave MacLeod – “Scotland's Best†& Katherine Schirrmacher
Apr 03rd - Andy Kirkpatrick "A Chocolate River Runs Through It" & Nick Sellars
More details at http://www.heason.net
Tickets available here http://www.planetfear.com/products.asp?department_id=5&category_id=36&style_id=117&brand_id=
Also, on Wed October 13th at 8.15pm will be a Best Of Kendal Film Festival at the Showroom Cinema in Sheffield. (7 full, £5 conc).
The Films to be shown (total length = 2.5 hours):
So Far West, It's Quicker to Go East (Bouldering)
Dr Strange Dyno (Dynoing)
Rubicon or People From the Other Side of the Earth (Mountaineering)
Twitch IV (Kayaking)
Namaste (Skiing)
Wookey Exposed (Caving)
Biscuit (A Climbing Dog!)
More info at http://www.heason.net
Tickets available from the Showroom Box Office:
0114 275 7727
info@showroom.org.uk
www.showroom.org.uk
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More importantly - at the 10th Oct lecture Beardown Productions is showing a 10 minute video....
Word y'all! bring a towel.
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Word y'all! bring a towel.
Why? What have you got in mind? Not illegal towel fighting contests again, I hope. :roll:
(http://www.mostpreciousblood.com/newMPBsite/images/Europe/Other_Stuff/Justin_Sean_TowelFight.jpg)
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is it coz it's laid out like that?
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from the interior to the exterior, you'd better get your poserior into one a deez big-ass lecture seats. SHIT DOGG.
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'at Beardown, we loves us some climbing and it be showing like a muthafukka...'
...that should be your mission statement dogg.
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I know its not bouldering but Brit Alan Hinkes is doing lectures as part of the Challenge 8000 nearing the completion of the 14 8,000m peaks. Bound to be good if of any interest to people. Look on the Berghaus site for more info.
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I just updated my website with the following text regarding the Pretzl Roc Trip:
On Monday October 11th a supremely strong team of Pretzl sponsored climbers will descend on the Peak District for the latest Pretzl Roc Trip. The team:
Alize Dufraisse
Gerome Pouvreau
Tony Lamiche
Isabelle Carrier
Franois Lombard
Liv Sansoz
Arnaud Petit
Loic Gaidioz
Kenny Gonzales
Phillipe Ribiere
Nicolas Nastorg
Romain Pagnoux
Fred Tuscan
Said Belhaj
Stephane Troussier
Stephan Denys (photo)
Laurent De La Fouchardiere (video)
Chloe Minoret
Guillaume Broust (video)
Jerome Meyer
Steve McLure, Ben Moon, Lisa Rands and Wills Young will be around, guiding the foreign contingent from boulder to crag. If you fancy hooking up with the team to go climbing, watch masters at work, or just pick up an autograph (!), check out this website (http://www.heason.net) each morning to find out where they are going. I'll do my best to update it by around 10am. Everyone is welcome - the more the merrier.
On the Saturday evening (16th Oct) a film showing and big party will take place at the Earl of Arundel and Surrey on Queens Road in Sheffield. All welcome. Late licence applied for - fingers crossed.
Now all we need is some good weather!
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This is going to be interesting :lol:
I think I'll turn into a camera whore, along with about 1000 others.
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its a real shame none of the big yanks are going to be there. any idea why the likes of sharma/DG/kehl etc are no-shows? i only recognise the names of about half a dozen of those frenchies.
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Hi Dave,
I was originally hoping that some of the Americans woudl come over, but alas no. But just cos you haven't heard of some fo the Frenchies doesn't mean they won't be awasome!
MattH
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Beardown have just delivered the vid to be premiered on Sunday night and it's Excellent!
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did else anyone here go then?
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No. Anyone know where said frenchies are goin today??
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They arrive at 12pm into East Midlands airport.
It'll take them a while to get car hire sorted and to drive across the peak I guess so they may not get out today. I will post stuff on my website tomorrow morning.
MattH
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did else anyone here go then?
i went to the lecture last night if that's what you mean, I thought KC over did the "all non-mountaineers are poofs" line but apart from that I thought he gave a good lecture and the other stuff was good too although I think I'd seen all of Keiths photos in mags before.
Were you the guy sat with the Beardown people who was dressed like a golf pro?
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I thought KC over did the "all non-mountaineers are poofs" line
I was thinking that, but from someone wearing an earing and a beaded necklace you'd have to assume it was touge-in-cheek. I've got to say his bit did drag on a bit, which was a shame cos A. it distracted from an otherwise interesting talk, and B. we missed last orders. If it had been 2/3rds as long at it was that would have been about right, especially given how rammed-in everyone was.
I thought that although sharples ins't a natural speaker, its was quite interesting, and even though i recognised some of the photos it was still very good.
Were you the guy sat with the Beardown people who was dressed like a golf pro?
I may have been, but i can assure you that wasn't my intention as i left the house.
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Were you the guy sat with the Beardown people who was dressed like a golf pro?
:lol: :lol: :lol: Goin for that 'Shooter' McGavin look eh Dave? I tell you, everytime I come here it gets harder to leave. Must be something you guys put in the water...
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I like to think of myself a cross between Jerry and Payne Stewart.
(http://www.beardownproductions.co.uk/jerrygolf.jpg)
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I missed the first half, but agree that KC was very good, but should have been half the length. Feel the quality, not the width. Heard the video was good.
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A enjoyable event other than getting arse-ache and hideous cramp due to being uncomfortably squashed up on top of a pool table. Big respect to the Beardowners, great film with some genius editing, seemed to go down very well with the crowd I thought.
Were you the guy sat with the Beardown people who was dressed like a golf pro?
Classic! :lol:
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Big respect to the Beardowners, great film with some genius editing, seemed to go down very well with the crowd I thought
is this gonna be available for downloading?
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well if kim can get it down from its current 2.6GB status....
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I have it as a 125Meg WMV file. Kim, if you want it let me know.
Glad that everybody seemed to enjoy the evening, despite it being pretty crowded. Looking forward to the next one in a couple of weeks.
MattH
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Check out the news item on planetFear:
http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=5143
MattH
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It's started :lol:
Tony Lamich first onsighted Big Air (E6 6b), before dispathcing Brad Pit (Font 7c+ / 8a) first go! No more than 2 minutes later into the pit walked Loic Gaidoiz who also onsighted it, in a gritty style that saw him rotate nearly 360 degrees, footless, on the finish hold. The pair also climbed The Storm (Font 7c?).
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Where they at on the 'morrow? Forecast looks proper shite for the next coupla' days! Hooray! Just it time to drizzle on the waddage..... and they hate it when it rains. Tomorow morning might be alright for a bit, maybe........
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Back to Stanage if the weather is good I think is the plan. Update in the morning hopefully.
M
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What's the score with pics/video Matt?
Is it cool to hang out and get some pics?
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I trust there'll be a webcam so us office jokeys can watch the action :wink: .
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I've been trying to get the gallery to accept posts from camera-phones which would be the next best thing...
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There's already a host of people with videos and cameras, but it's a free country so no one will mind if you take yours along. Just be respectful of the others I'd say.
MattH
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Cool - it'd be good to get a few snaps if the weather is nice.
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Check out this news item too!
http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=5144
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wish i was in the peak, so i could go celebrity spotting as well... :crying: :wink:
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It's started :lol:
Tony Lamich first onsighted Big Air (E6 6b), before dispathcing Brad Pit (Font 7c+ / 8a) first go! No more than 2 minutes later into the pit walked Loic Gaidoiz who also onsighted it, in a gritty style that saw him rotate nearly 360 degrees, footless, on the finish hold. The pair also climbed The Storm (Font 7c?).
why is it boulder problems seem to gain and extra grade when they appear on planetfear?
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I wasn't sure of the current thinking on grades for either problem (hence the ? / symbols.
What are they?
And has Brad Pitt been onsighted or flashed before?
MattH
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brad pit - 7c/7c+
storm - 7b+
I think the pits been flashed before, but not really sure
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weather looks to be getting shit for a few days, then picking up towards the end of the week
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brad pit - 7c/7c+
storm - 7b+
I think the pits been flashed before, but not really sure
Ivan Tresch flashed B.P. - dunno whether it was onsight or not.
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i doubt anyone could "onsight" BP in the strictest sense, unless they were brought up by wolves in the jungle.
i recon it'll have been flashed pleanty - if lemenstrual did it like 2nd go or whatever with the 8a+ beta then with the 7c beta it'll have been done for sure.
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True - it's been on that many videos that the heelhook method will be well known by now.
Do you think it's been flashed plenty? Are there a shit load of people who can flash 7c?
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well our man Andy B fell off the top jug on his third go, so i guess so. (admittedly he's never actually done it since, but he well injured and generally only allows himself 3 goes on things below 7c :D ). think he also did storm 2nd go, and flashed berezina, so theres loads of people who can flash at least 7c easy.
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Yeah, you're right - it's all just too much for me to comprehend people flashing stuff like that !
Thinking about it, I bet there's a few ukbers have flashed 7c, or who are certainly capable.
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yeah loads.
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The Van-wad had a yellow-jacketed demonstartion before his ascent, so it falls into the 'flash' category. Doubt its had a true on-sight, particularly if you count videos as blowing the on-sight.
Not many people flash 7c/+ regularly, but a lot of people can do it occasionally, on a problem that suits them.
Good to see Dave yet again try to illustrate his point without topping out. Go on Dave.
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:cry: :cry:
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Anyway, does anyone know where Petzl waddage will be today? Nothing on heason.net (http://www.heason.net) as far as I can see...
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the foundry?
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I'll let you know as soon as know...
The plan yesterday was to go back to the Plantation if the weather was good enough. If not, the Tor.
MattH
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what, Houndkirk?!? :shock:
strange choice of venue
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No. Nether.
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even worse!
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I seem to remember the Van-wad flashing underworld at earl as well
WADDAGE!
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I refer you to the following update with regard to the party on Saturday night
http://www.heason.net/HTML/Current%20Events/Heason%20Events%20Current%20Events%20Petzl%20Roc%20Trip%20Oct%2004%20Details.html
Print off a flier and be one of the first hundred peopple through the door to qualify for a free beeeeeeer.
MattH
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I seem to remember the Van-wad flashing underworld at earl as well
Wasn't quite a flash, but not slow either. The other big one was Zoo York at Caley. Not likely to receive another flash in a hurry. Plus he did the crux of careless torque third go. There are only two wads in this world...
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There are only two wads in this world...
Thanks. But who's the second?
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His brother I presume...
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No. Michi is pretty waddage, but the other true wad is the Bean-wad.
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No. Michi is pretty waddage, but the other true wad is the Bean-wad.
Sean? :?
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(http://jhmg.com/AboutJHMG/OurGuides/GuidePage/BeanSm.jpg)
The Bean-wad
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There are only two wads in this world...
Thanks. But who's the second?
who else? (http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=3031)
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To get this back on track, met some of the crew at the plantation this evening. It was pretty wet, and not a lot was happening. All seem like nice peeps tho. After checkin permits I returned to my secret wet weather grit venue. :wink:
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you came all the way over here just to go to the back wall at hobson moor?
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Petzl roctrip on way to millstone - London wall area.
eh? Have I got the wrong end of the stick or is this a bouldrin trip?
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i take it we're all then supposed to be blown away that a load of uber-stamina sport wads piss a pumpy 6a crack!
i'd sooner have taken them to bell hagg over millstone. Or maybe they're off to try bohemian groove. I like to think of it as the UKs mandala.
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:lol:
They'll need to clean the inch of luminous lichen off first...
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Poor bastards - hope they get some decent weather
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To get this back on track
whateva footwork, whateva :wink:
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hey we can talk more about The Bean-wad if you want...
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Wonder if these guys fancy a cave session - I'm sure it beats going to the wall, and I reckon mr lamiche could tear it a new butt...
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Poor buggers, with this weather and all...
Still if there was one year not to come to the UK, this was it. Unless you're a kayaker or summat.
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Why don't you bring these hommes to the Lakes, its gorgeous today. Or Yorkshire?
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why not bring them to Hong Kong - it'll be gorgeous here for the next 6 months!
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seems to be clearing up a bit now...
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The little arete on the boulder in Burbage South Quarry should be in nick, get them on it! If they manage it I recommend a trip to Yarncliffe for Them!. If they fail then its over to the "mini Cowperstone" at B West. :8)
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seems to be clearing up a bit now...
You sure, its pissing it down here.
Forecast looks pretty bad for next few days
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Ok in Sheff, but then I've not ventured out to the Peak
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"Thursday 14th October 2004
11:30 - The team have just announced that they are going to Burbage North"
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I don't want to labour the point, but it really is beaut in't' Lakes. Not a breath, blue skies, high teens... :hihi:
But then again, its probably good nick at Hallam View Buttress...
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Millstone yesterday and now Burbage North? I get the feeling the visitors won't be hurrying back to Britain in the future after been shown round places like those.
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high teens...
thats todays comprehensive schools for you.
BU-BUM - TISH! :roll:
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The scary thing is Dave, I actually had you penned in for that line! :shock:
Was it you who stole Bob Monkhouse's joke book?
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you can call me "the guv'nor".
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anyone else noticed that on matt's site this animation toggles between spelling rock with a K and without:
(http://heason.net/Images/Banners/Petzl%20Roc%20Trip%20Animation.gif)
:?
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Maybe it alludes to the fact that during the day they will search for "rock", while by night they will hunt the elusive "Roc" - a mythical white bird large enough to carry away elephants in its talons, seen here doing the business on a medieval knight:
(http://www.eaudrey.com/myth/images/Roc.gif)
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Maybe it alludes to the fact that during the day they will search for "rock", while by night they will hunt the elusive "Roc" - a mythical white bird large enough to carry away elephants in its talons, seen here doing the business on a medieval knight:
Jesus, that's great - those foreign boys have wide ranging interests - should make the video more entertaining as well.
What do we have, Ben & Jerry going bloody dancing after a day on't crag - not very mystical.
Perhaps Big Malc and Si O'C could do a combination bouldering video, with a hunt for the Loch Ness Monster?? I'd buy it.
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they also mis-spelled pretzel. must have been done in a hurry.
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Saturday 16th October - 10.30am - The team are at Raven Tor