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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: slackline on January 17, 2014, 12:24:38 am

Title: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on January 17, 2014, 12:24:38 am
Not quite the (relatively) solid granite of Yosemite (http://www.outsideonline.com/news-from-the-field/Honnold-Climbs-El-Sendero-Luminoso.html)

(http://media.outsideonline.com/images/honnold-mexico-climb-route_fe.jpg)

(http://media.outsideonline.com/images/alex-honnold-climbing-mexico_fe.jpg)

(http://media.outsideonline.com/images/honnold-mexico-climb-rock-face_fe.jpg)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Durbs on January 17, 2014, 02:01:25 pm
He's seriously nuts.

And epic.

Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: PipeSmoke on January 18, 2014, 11:24:49 am
Surely it is only a matter of time before one of the climbing greats, and one of the nicest blokes in climbing has some bad luck/makes a bad call and the inevitable happens?
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 18, 2014, 12:28:18 pm
Having climbed with him a tiny bit, I'd say he's undoubtedly the most comfortable/ talented guy I've ever seen on rock. Not much ego, and hard as it may be to believe, is doing these solos for the right reasons, i.e. his own. So I think if he does come a cropper it'll be some objective hazard and bad luck.

Given he's about the most famous climber in the world, but there isn't masses else on his CV, I think what is more likely is he'll inspire a few wannabes who are in it for the glory. Not good. But then climbing is a pretty safe sport nowadays and folk tend to avoid anything properly dangerous, so maybe not.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: a dense loner on January 18, 2014, 01:31:27 pm
The most famous climber in the world? That's nearly as ridiculous a statement as the time you said uncle was probably the best climber in Britain this past year (when 85 days on the same 2 problems in font came out).
But on the other stuff I agree.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: dave on January 18, 2014, 03:41:27 pm
Bonners is the most famous climber, followed by Mina.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 18, 2014, 06:24:57 pm
I never said Uncle was the best at anything other than making films of himself.

I don't see Honnold's fame as up for discussion though. I mean actually famous, not well known amongst climbers.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Doylo on January 18, 2014, 06:48:07 pm
It could be  Alain Robert though (maybe!?). Most non climbers seem to talk about the 'spiderman'
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: moose on January 18, 2014, 07:27:47 pm
It could be  Alain Robert though (maybe!?). Most non climbers seem to talk about the 'spiderman'

Agreed, I've has innumerable encounters along the lines of "have you seen that fella who climbs buildings using only his fingers?! So, what's the highest thing you've ever climbed?"
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: abarro81 on January 18, 2014, 07:31:01 pm
Have you ever been abseiling?
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: willackers on January 18, 2014, 11:18:23 pm


http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=abseiling (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=abseiling)

Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: rosmat on January 18, 2014, 11:47:59 pm


http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=abseiling (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=abseiling)

How on earth does:

 "the act of self abuse whilst simultaneously inserting a dildo in your arse"

recreate the motion of a climber descending a cliff in any way at all? Unless I've been missing something when abseiling all these years?

No wonder some people like caving if this what abseiling is really like.  :shrug:
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: tomtom on January 19, 2014, 09:04:20 am
I believe its to do with the hand(s) position...
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 19, 2014, 09:53:42 am
It could be  Alain Robert though (maybe!?). Most non climbers seem to talk about the 'spiderman'

Honnold is after that title too:

http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/Alex-Honnold-Climbing-Disrupters.html (http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/Alex-Honnold-Climbing-Disrupters.html)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Bonjoy on January 19, 2014, 10:05:18 am
Having climbed with him a tiny bit, I'd say he's undoubtedly the most comfortable/ talented guy I've ever seen on rock. Not much ego, and hard as it may be to believe, is doing these solos for the right reasons, i.e. his own. So I think if he does come a cropper it'll be some objective hazard and bad luck.

I agree. I've heard a fair few negative comments about his climbing. As if dangerous is good but only up to a point and beyond that it's bad.
It almost seems like people feel some ownership of him because he's in the public eye. It's his life to do with as he likes. I dare say his level of risk isn't any greater than an F1 racing driver for instance anyway.
He's certainly not nuts. Nuts is sitting on the sofa all day eating haribos then dying of an obesity related illness.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: tim palmer on January 19, 2014, 10:42:08 am
Quote
As if dangerous is good but only up to a point and beyond that it's bad.
surely that is the point?  Every time you do anything you make an assessment of the risks and he is willing to accept a level of risk which is pretty unimaginable to most people.  I doubt many people doubt he is a magnificent climber but magnificent or not all it will take is one bit of bad luck.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Offwidth on January 19, 2014, 12:56:23 pm
How about a comparison between his solos and some of the names over the years on big mountain FA's. Much fewer risks outside his control in my view, safer than Alan Hinks, though both avoid the dreaded sedentary haribo risk.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: remus on January 19, 2014, 01:34:03 pm
Every time you do anything you make an assessment of the risks and he is willing to accept a level of risk which is pretty unimaginable to most people.

I don't think the level of risk he's taking is really that unimaginable. Absolute difficulty isn't as important as relative difficulty, and I can certainly contemplate soloing something big that's well below my max, especially with extensive practice.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: tim palmer on January 20, 2014, 10:15:30 am
How about a comparison between his solos and some of the names over the years on big mountain FA's. Much fewer risks outside his control in my view, safer than Alan Hinks, though both avoid the dreaded sedentary haribo risk.
In some ays I suppose it is, but on the other hand he has climbed these routes with a rope several times and solos them for the sake of it whereas I guess with big mountains the risk is unavoidable if you want to climb the mountain or route.

Every time you do anything you make an assessment of the risks and he is willing to accept a level of risk which is pretty unimaginable to most people.

I don't think the level of risk he's taking is really that unimaginable. Absolute difficulty isn't as important as relative difficulty, and I can certainly contemplate soloing something big that's well below my max, especially with extensive practice.
Good for you, but I think that it is pretty unimaginable to most people, if it weren't why would there be all the fanfare surrounding him?
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: JamieG on January 20, 2014, 10:35:59 am
As much as i appreciate that he is doing these solos 'for himself' and its 'his life' and in many ways it isn't any more dangerous that lots of things people do. If he does fall off, someone is going to find him and then get help to clean the mess and I imagine that would be pretty traumatizing and i'm sure their are friends and family that would be devastated by the loss. So i think there is always a certain element of selfishness in soloing these things for me, and I find it hard to justify. But then again I can be pretty selfish . . .

Perhaps I just don't understand how he gets a kick out of it. I climb highballs and have hurt myself falling off, but I really hate the idea of getting to the point where I think I actually might kill myself.

2p
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2014, 10:49:52 am
As much as i appreciate that he is doing these solos 'for himself' and its 'his life' and in many ways it isn't any more dangerous that lots of things people do. If he does fall off, someone is going to find him and then get help to clean the mess and I imagine that would be pretty traumatizing and i'm sure their are friends and family that would be devastated by the loss.

The same holds true for the aforementioned F1 drivers (although the safety of the cars if vastly improved these days), motorcyclists (racing or on the road), skiiers (recent case in hand being Schumacer), general cars on the road (as accidents can and do happen, even to the most cautious of drivers as there are things beyond control, i.e. others).

I recall reading about the accidents last year on El Cap where someone died when a block fell.  They were using ropes.  No doubt traumatizing for YOSAR members who were involved in the rescue and the families.  Does that mean that they shouldn't have been up there?
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Ti_pin_man on January 20, 2014, 10:50:41 am
selfish?  I dont think his selfishness comes across as extreme, just ordinary.  many people held up as idols could be labelled the same.  from racing drivers to the likes of mallory/irvine. 

family and loved ones?  yep they will be upset and grieve but they will know him well enough to know he's doing what he wants with his life and I applaud, as I hope they do, a life less ordinary.

As for clearing up any mess when they fail, sure people have to but they have to clean up after boy racers crash cars.  I'm not sure that argument holds water for me.  we all die sometime and we all have to be cleared up.  the only certain thing is in life is death.

Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2014, 10:59:48 am
I really hate the idea of getting to the point where I think I actually might kill myself.

Maybe you get to the point where you might actually kill yourself more often than you think, you just don't find out because you don't fall off?
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Doylo on January 20, 2014, 11:00:11 am
As much as i appreciate that he is doing these solos 'for himself' and its 'his life' and in many ways it isn't any more dangerous that lots of things people do. If he does fall off, someone is going to find him and then get help to clean the mess and I imagine that would be pretty traumatizing and i'm sure their are friends and family that would be devastated by the loss.

The same holds true for the aforementioned F1 drivers (although the safety of the cars if vastly improved these days), motorcyclists (racing or on the road), skiiers (recent case in hand being Schumacer), general cars on the road (as accidents can and do happen, even to the most cautious of drivers as there are things beyond control, i.e. others).

I recall reading about the accidents last year on El Cap where someone died when a block fell.  They were using ropes.  No doubt traumatizing for YOSAR members who were involved in the rescue and the families.  Does that mean that they shouldn't have been up there?


Appreciate the comparisons with other extreme sports but this extreme soloing does seem that bit more critical to me. One slip in 500 metres of climbing and it's certain death.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: JamieG on January 20, 2014, 12:10:32 pm
Thanks for the replies.

Maybe you get to the point where you might actually kill yourself more often than you think, you just don't find out because you don't fall off?

You probably right and I guess it all comes down to finding and managing an acceptable level of risk. His just seems particularly high. I've soloed some easy routes before and enjoyed it, so I guess i'm being a bit hypocritical to be honest. But I never felt like i was going to die, and maybe Honnold feels the same on these routes.

I agree ti_pin_man, my argument doesn't really hold up to much scrutiny, since I enjoy watching formula one and really enjoyed guy martins dvd 'closer to the edge' about the TT racing. There is just something about these solos that makes me deeply uncomfortable. Maybe because I climb, but have never been on a motorbike (scooters don't count :-)) and I certainly can't drive an F1 car. Like doylo says the danger seems much more digital. One mistake and that's it. The risk just seems very tangible and I am kind of dreading reading that he's fallen off something and died.

Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: petejh on January 20, 2014, 01:34:01 pm
It'd be interesting to get a real appreciation of the relative risks between few 'extreme' sport such as big mountain skiing, soloing, base-jumping, proximity wingsuit flying; and mainstream sport such as on-piste skiing, F1, Rugby, Horse-Riding.

Only possible by knowing number of participants and number killed/injured during the activity. My impression (likely to be wrong) of soloing is that there are relatively few participants and relatively high numbers of them die doing it.

Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: mindfull on January 20, 2014, 01:35:01 pm
Have a look at how his mum thinks about this. She's quite mellow about it, tries to understand, and not worry too much about it, as she knows this is what he wants. If my mother only would be like this ...

First Ascent Episode 1: Alone On The Wall (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Il9fxtCNU9A#ws)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Doylo on January 20, 2014, 01:44:32 pm
I think the level of seriousness  for mistakes is obvious. You can crash a F1 car at 150mph into a barrier and survive but if something significant goes wrong half way up El Cap there is only one outcome. The level of intense risk and concentration needed is gobsmacking.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2014, 01:46:54 pm
It'd be interesting to get a real appreciation of the relative risks between few 'extreme' sport such as big mountain skiing, soloing, base-jumping, proximity wingsuit flying; and mainstream sport such as on-piste skiing, F1, Rugby, Horse-Riding.

Only possible by knowing number of participants and number killed/injured during the activity. My impression (likely to be wrong) of soloing is that there are relatively few participants and relatively high numbers of them die doing it.

There is an article about micromorts and measuring comparitive risk in "extreme" activities, but I don't think it went down to enough detail to include soloing.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2014, 01:49:15 pm
One I was thinking of; only lists himalayan climbing and alpine mountaineering

http://utahavalanchecenter.org/blog-what-risk-riding-avalanche-terrain (http://utahavalanchecenter.org/blog-what-risk-riding-avalanche-terrain)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2014, 02:34:18 pm
Déjà vu (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=22172.0).  This has all been done before when he wrote up his last "hardest free soloing ascent"   

I don't tell others what their acceptable level of risk should be, people are free to make their own decisions, and I really can't imagine that any soloist (Honnold, Bachar, Croft, Hershey, Long, Reardon etc.) didn't know the risk they were taking before they stepped off the ground (and very much doubt people posting on forums will change their choices).

:yawn:
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: JamieG on January 20, 2014, 02:48:06 pm
(and very much doubt people posting on forums will change their choices).

:yawn:
 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=22172.0)

This isn't exactly helpful. I don't think I can (or even want to) change honnold's mind. It's just interesting to hear what other people think. It's an amazing achievement to solo routes like this, and understanding motivation, perception of risk etc. is worth discussing/contemplating. If not why did you even post the news?
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 20, 2014, 02:52:40 pm
Quote
One slip... and it's certain death

Not sure why folk suddenly turn into non-climbers when discussing this. There's an interview with Honnold somewhere (possibly the film) where he talks about all the things that people tell him could go wrong - a hold breaking, a wet section, a bird in a crack, a 'slip!!' etc - and how, one by one, they've all happened to him and weren't so bad. There is a fair margin for error or he wouldn't be doing it. He's generally well within his limits, and rarely does hard stuff on sight. Yes he his much better than you at this.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2014, 03:05:53 pm
It's an amazing achievement to solo routes like this, and understanding motivation, perception of risk etc. is worth discussing/contemplating. If not why did you even post the news?

Because its interesting and impressive news and this particular sub-forum is for news (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/board,10.0.html)

If you, or anyone else, want to have a debate about the ethics/morals of soloing then start a dedicated thread for it in either chuffing (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/board,28.0.html) or shootin' the shit (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/board,2.0.html) (and link back to this thread or the original news item if you want to have a story/event with which to begin the discussion).
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: JamieG on January 20, 2014, 03:18:08 pm
Thank you for posting the original link. It seems OTT to start a new thread to discuss this then link back. Almost every thread on this forum meanders around. I was just surprised you put a yawn smiley one page after you started the thread. Clearly plenty of people think this is worth discussing. Probably because there is no clear answers and quite a grey area.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Bonjoy on January 20, 2014, 05:38:08 pm
Quote
As if dangerous is good but only up to a point and beyond that it's bad.
surely that is the point?  Every time you do anything you make an assessment of the risks and he is willing to accept a level of risk which is pretty unimaginable to most people.  I doubt many people doubt he is a magnificent climber but magnificent or not all it will take is one bit of bad luck.
My point is that from a 'why take risks' point of view you can argue the toss either way for any level of risk. It's utterly a matter of personal choice. There is no absolutes when it comes to sensible levels of risk when the reason for taking the risk is simply for fun/fulfillment. People seem to be offended and made uncomfortable by Honnold's  climbing in a way they don't by other equally or more risk behaviors (many of which, such as the bad diet and no exercise, haven't a fraction of the upsides that AH presumably gets from soloing) . It makes no sense. 
The 'someone's got to clear up the mess' argument is pretty Daily Maillish if you ask me. Someone had to clear up the mess when a cyclist got knocked dead by a car outside my work last week, was the cyclist irresponsible because of this? How many cycle journeys to work is equal on the irresponsible scale to say 100m of soloing?
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Baron on January 20, 2014, 05:58:49 pm
As a climber, I was surprised by my reaction to this being mainly 'selfish bastard':
http://www.channel4.com/programmes/dont-look-down/4od (http://www.channel4.com/programmes/dont-look-down/4od)

Being over 40 now (made it!) I guess the following must apply:

There are old climbers, there are bold climbers, but there are no old bold climbers

- Anonymous
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: JamieG on January 20, 2014, 06:25:17 pm
The 'someone's got to clear up the mess' argument is pretty Daily Maillish if you ask me.

 ;D I didn't say some 'illegal immigrant who shouldn't be in the country anyway' will need to clean up the mess.

Although it probably isn't too far off a mexican cleaning up an americans mess.  :whistle:
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 20, 2014, 06:34:49 pm
Quote
As a climber, I was surprised by my reaction to this being mainly 'selfish bastard

Yeah, interesting programme. My reaction was more that it's a shame he hasn't been introduced to rock climbing or something similar - the core motivation seems identical. There seemed a fairly low difficulty component so what they were doing was basically pushing boldness. The only difference with climbing is we have a big established culture which to some extent legitimises the risk taking, whilst providing a mentoring system advocating difficulty and safety over unnecessary danger.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Stubbs on January 20, 2014, 06:35:46 pm
Some words from the man himself, he makes the harder pitches sound like soloing somthing at Malham  :sick: http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/q-a-honnold-on-soloing-el-sendero-luminoso-5-12d (http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/q-a-honnold-on-soloing-el-sendero-luminoso-5-12d)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 20, 2014, 06:41:31 pm
Quote
because it’s a giant slab you don’t really get pumped at all.

That was my first thought when I saw it too. And the rock looks to have that high friction crossly surface you get on good lime. So not so much like Malham!
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: tim palmer on January 20, 2014, 06:49:05 pm
My point is that from a 'why take risks' point of view you can argue the toss either way for any level of risk.

I agree to a point, but what he is doing is exquisitely dangerous just ask john bachar, jimmy jewel etc etc.

Obviously he can do what he wants to and I don't really care but in my opinion the risks that he chooses to expose himself to make no sense.

But I don't agree that the risks that honnold chooses to face are lower than those of a sedentary lifestyle and I am slightly uncomfortable with your assertion that an active lifestyle should be so much more fulfilling and worthwhile than a sedentary one just because it is the one you (and I) choose and are able to pursue.  As you said it is utterly a matter of personal choice.


Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Baron on January 20, 2014, 07:10:31 pm


Yeah, interesting programme. My reaction was more that it's a shame he hasn't been introduced to rock climbing or something similar - the core motivation seems identical. There seemed a fairly low difficulty component so what they were doing was basically pushing boldness. The only difference with climbing is we have a big established culture which to some extent legitimises the risk taking, whilst providing a mentoring system advocating difficulty and safety over unnecessary danger.

Well put sir.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Bonjoy on January 20, 2014, 07:14:23 pm
The risks of a sedentary lifestyle are many and varied, a good portion of westerners die of one or another of them. Our hospitals are choked with the results. The cause and effect is less obvious and more spread out in time than death by soloing.
OK soloing might kill you younger which brings you down to quality versus quantity which is the nub of the issue anyway. If Honnold feels so driven to do this then what sort of life will he have if he denies himself?
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: tim palmer on January 20, 2014, 07:53:22 pm
The risks of a sedentary lifestyle are many and varied, a good portion of westerners die of one or another of them. Our hospitals are choked with the results. The cause and effect is less obvious and more spread out in time than death by soloing.
I am perfectly aware of this, I see it every day at work but don't you realise that the two things are arguably two sides of the same coin?  Both extremes need to restrain themselves to improve their life expectancy and perhaps contribute to others
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2014, 08:05:03 pm
I was just surprised you put a yawn smiley one page after you started the thread.  Clearly plenty of people think this is worth discussing. Probably because there is no clear answers and quite a grey area.

Discussing whether its "right/wrong" to solo isn't why I posted the news though.  I've no objection to it being discussed but as with the previous thread the news is lost pretty quickly in the "is it acceptable risk" tangent.  There have been some interesting and thoughtful posts, and the discussion probably deserves its own thread.  I won't have much to contribute as my view is quite simple, we each have our own level of risk that we're happy to take (hence the yawn).  I'm sure there are things that you, and indeed all of us, have done/do that others would think are unacceptable.

Heres a link to an Alpinist interview (http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14w/wfeature-alex-honnold-el-potrero-free-solo) which is an interesting insight to Alex's motivations for this route and how he prepared for it.  Some overlap with the Rock & Ice article Stubbs has linked.

Quote from: Alex Honnold
The last morning before we left, I did a 14-pitch 5.10c. It took me 45 minutes to climb and another hour to down climb.

  :o  Thats damn quick!
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Bonjoy on January 20, 2014, 08:05:18 pm
Quote
Both extremes need to restrain themselves to improve their life expectancy and perhaps contribute to others
Why? Says who?

I'd have said that Honnold has already discharged his lifetime's responsibility to contribute to other's well being, except that I don't believe he has any such responsibility in the first place. He's given a lot more entertainment and inspiration to others than the vast majority of people I'd say.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: JamieG on January 20, 2014, 08:10:12 pm
I'm sure there are things that you, and indeed all of us, have done/do that others would think are unacceptable.

Me! Never! I'm a bastion of good judgement . . . . .

Cheers for the link to the article in the Alpinist.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: tim palmer on January 20, 2014, 08:16:04 pm
Why? says who?

you, because as you say

The risks of a sedentary lifestyle are many and varied, a good portion of westerners die of one or another
Quote
and

[\quote]

I'd have said that Honnold has already discharged his lifetime's responsibility to contribute to other's well being, except that I don't believe he has any such responsibility in the first place. He's given a lot more entertainment and inspiration to others than the vast majority of people I'd say.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Bonjoy on January 20, 2014, 08:34:55 pm
I am slightly uncomfortable with your assertion that an active lifestyle should be so much more fulfilling and worthwhile than a sedentary one just because it is the one you (and I) choose and are able to pursue. 
I didn't assert that. I said the upsides of the risky activity seemed to me self evidently greater for one than the other. As the thing's being compared were climbing some of the best routes on earth in a very exciting way versus eating haribos on the sofa I don't think I was going too far out on limb on that one. Could be wrong, could be a very comfy sofa and the guy/gal might really really like jelly sweets.
I didn't assert that a person who ate haribos on the sofa couldn't have a more fulfilling life than Alex Honnold. For all I know they could be a world class pigeon breeder and be the happiest guy on earth, I just think it's a safe bet that the happiness isn't largely related to the jellies and indolence.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 20, 2014, 09:59:50 pm
In my experience jellies and indolence can be perfectly combined with climbing to achieve the best of all possible worlds. Take a pocket full of Haribo up Gogarth on a sunny day, get comfy on a belay ledge and you're ringing the fucking bell right there.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: petejh on January 20, 2014, 10:01:06 pm
^^  Best post of 2014 to date.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Paul B on January 20, 2014, 10:46:50 pm
Given he's about the most famous climber in the world, but there isn't masses else on his CV, I think what is more likely is he'll inspire a few wannabes who are in it for the glory. Not good. But then climbing is a pretty safe sport nowadays and folk tend to avoid anything properly dangerous, so maybe not.

I think you're correct. When we were in Yosemite / Tuolumne we saw a fair few people soling and far closer to their level of (apparent) ability for (my) comfort, for instance Royal Arches where some guy passed us and sketched his way across in the in-situ pendulum / tension.

The other that stuck in my mind was one guy who arrived at the top of a dome after us not having the faintest idea of how to get down with the typical afternoon clouds rolling in. We abseiled (no dildos involved), I think he probably sparked up another joint and enjoyed the 'lights'.

Right, time to open up the 1kg of Haribo I have left from Christmas  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Moo on January 20, 2014, 11:12:28 pm
I've gotta come down on the freedom of expression side of the argument here. I go climbing because I can do what I want when I want, there are no external pressures or bullshit like I might have to put up with in my day to day life.

We have a code of ethics and morals which relate to rock/wildlife preservation and integrity with regards to reporting ascents (style etc... ) outside of that there are no rules, I can go do some easy soloing down in Langdale or spend a week sitting under a project in switzerland. If someone saw me doing any of these things and decided they were a good idea that's their choice, I'm not responsible for their actions and neither is Alex Honnold.

I understand that we all have personal opinions about what people should and should not be doing with their time, but ultimately it's their choice not ours.

If watching Honnold makes you feel uncomfortable then I totally get where you are coming from, and I think it's because we can put ourselves in his shoes and relate to how we would feel in that situation. We however are not Honnold, and cannot relate to the wealth of experience he has in dealing with those situations (I understand that last part was a generalisation).
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: fried on January 21, 2014, 06:38:46 am
....Take a pocket full of Haribo up Gogarth on a sunny day, get comfy on a belay ledge and you're ringing the fucking bell right there.

I'd be careful with those bears....http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/shortcuts/2014/jan/20/haribo-sugarless-gummy-bears-laxative-effect (http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/shortcuts/2014/jan/20/haribo-sugarless-gummy-bears-laxative-effect)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Jim on January 21, 2014, 07:13:22 am
only a fool would buy the sugarless!
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Bonjoy on January 21, 2014, 09:20:06 am
I'll add 'hit by falling rock/seagull' to my list of comfy haribo hazards.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2014, 09:22:11 am
only a fool would buy the sugarless!

Like decaffeinated coffee or alcohol free beer. A shadow of their intended purpose.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Rocksteady on January 21, 2014, 10:09:41 am
only a fool would buy the sugarless!

Like decaffeinated coffee or alcohol free beer. A shadow of their intended purpose.

Just imagine...a world-class soloist wakes up, drinks a flask of decaff coffee, sets off up some multi-pitch testpiece, scoffs some sugar-free Haribo on a lonely ledge halfway between heaven and the void, and then later celebrates his successful ascent with an alcohol-free beer. Crazy bastard! 
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2014, 10:15:27 am
All my nightmares rolled into one.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: cowboyhat on January 21, 2014, 03:04:30 pm
They won't make it as far as the beer.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on January 22, 2014, 12:28:02 pm
Thoughts from one of the routes first ascentionists (http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tnb-next-level-solo-honnold-pushes-the-game-on-el-sendero-luminoso)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 23, 2014, 07:16:41 pm
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/honnold’s-solo-you-won’t-believe-article (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/honnold’s-solo-you-won’t-believe-article)

Some perspective, endorsed by the man himself on Crackbook.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on February 06, 2014, 07:27:04 am
Steep Learning Curve by Alex Honnold (http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/alex-honnold-reaveals-free-solo-failures)  :coffee:
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 06, 2014, 02:34:30 pm
That's really interesting and is the first time I've really understood his mentality behind doing these things.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Wood FT on February 06, 2014, 03:57:44 pm
I thought that incredibly well written and succinct, cheers for posting
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: mindfull on February 06, 2014, 05:44:18 pm
I liked that alot.He seems very open even about some events that he was at the time ashamed over. Also, I notice he"s not only a keen reader, but also a talented writer. Nice to see him show some of his other skills. I remember another article where he states that he wants to be know not only as a good climber. Think he has a non-profit also, focusing on environmental and social issues?
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on February 06, 2014, 06:46:11 pm
Yeah, I thought it was a great insight.

Think he has a non-profit also, focusing on environmental and social issues?

The eponymous Honnold Foundation (http://honnoldfoundation.org/)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: mindfull on February 06, 2014, 07:06:47 pm
Thnx slacks, cool.

I see, a non-profit may be called a charity. Stupid belgian I am :-)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on February 06, 2014, 07:09:10 pm
Alex Honnold 5.12 Big Wall Solo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX_rh8Qugt0#ws)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Doylo on February 06, 2014, 08:01:00 pm
I find that scarier to watch than the crack solos  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Wood FT on February 06, 2014, 09:45:30 pm
Alex Honnold 5.12 Big Wall Solo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX_rh8Qugt0#ws)

ARGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH  :sick:
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: cofe on February 06, 2014, 10:38:41 pm
That's all kind of fucking wow amazeballs n shit, etc.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 07, 2014, 01:16:25 pm
That didn't really look that scary to me. Not being macho, but it looked slabby, positive, and escapable. Whereas I find that footage on Moonlight terrifying.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: jwi on February 07, 2014, 04:01:43 pm
Agree. When he did that sequence on fingerlocks with bad feets on moonlight… There's not much margin of error. On positives holds on a 7a slab someone who comfortably onsights 8a slabs will not fall even if attacked by snakes…
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 07, 2014, 05:59:44 pm
What's the link to the Moonlight clip? Searching 'honnald moonlight' doesn't find it
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: joel182 on February 07, 2014, 06:11:09 pm
What's the link to the Moonlight clip? Searching 'honnald moonlight' doesn't find it

There's footage of it starting from about 6 minutes in.
http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjM3MTcyOTgw.html (http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjM3MTcyOTgw.html)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: psychomansam on February 07, 2014, 06:56:33 pm
I can hardly cope with watching that and my palm are now actually sweating. Yet his aren't!   :blink:
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on February 07, 2014, 07:13:25 pm
What's the link to the Moonlight clip? Searching 'honnald moonlight' doesn't find it

It's one of the episodes from first ascent series.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on February 13, 2014, 07:13:56 am
The North Face: Alex Honnold - El Sendero Luminoso (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phl82D57P58#ws)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: finbarrr on February 13, 2014, 07:34:03 am
 :'(

soo far out of my league, all i'm left thinking is: "yellow soles on his la sportiva's????"
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Ti_pin_man on February 13, 2014, 09:26:07 am
His interview was quite grounded, he seemed at peace with what he does and it was interesting BUT I think its so far away from what most of us do, man... that last slow mo footage is just so scary to watch.  looking at the drop and the small crimps.... fuuuuuuuucccckkkkk.  gobsmacked.  Im torn between admiring what he does and thinking he should be put into a straight jacket and inserted into the nearest padded cell.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Fiend on February 13, 2014, 10:01:27 am
Nicely shot piece, despite mentioning death every sentence for the first part. Didn't look that scary to me, but I like positive crimps on off-vertical walls. It looks a very nice route.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Dave Flanagan on February 13, 2014, 10:39:13 am
:'(

soo far out of my league, all i'm left thinking is: "yellow soles on his la sportiva's????"

Exactly what I was thinking.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: Offwidth on February 18, 2014, 11:10:58 am
Obviously Mexico was just a warm up?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2345655/The-mother-of-all-traverses-The-Fitz-Traverse (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2345655/The-mother-of-all-traverses-The-Fitz-Traverse)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on March 24, 2014, 04:48:23 pm
Honnold 3.0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQkgPlRCcRo#ws)

\textbf{NB} - For those who might feel short-changed having purchased Reel Rock, this isn't an official release and will likely disappear pretty soon once Sender Films know its been posted.
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on April 08, 2014, 11:05:07 pm
A Question of Risk - Episode 1 - Alex Honnold on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/84716329)
Title: Re: Honnold in Mexico
Post by: slackline on June 18, 2014, 04:30:41 pm
Stride Health: Alex Honnold's Urban Ascents (Full Film) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B76ysGuyi7M#ws)
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