UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: al on March 20, 2012, 09:39:50 am
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There's a bit of extra money been found to expand the Heeley boulder area at Heeley Millenium Park (Sheffield) - I know a few ukb'ers like to use it, and may be keen to have some input at a consultation evening next monday - March 26th, 3.30pm - 6.30pm, The Institute, 147 Gleadless Road (up from the boulder, near the shakespeare pub etc.) - not sure if we've got enough to do anything too major, but there are some nice ideas floating around...
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Had heard there were plans to expand things but didn't know any details, thanks for the heads up on the meeting.
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From Heeleyonline.org
(http://heeleyonline.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/boulder-publicity-without-box_0001.jpg?w=594&h=840) (http://heeleyonline.org/2012/03/21/heeley-millennium-park-climbing-boulder/)
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Al, I mentioned to several people at the boulder on Tuesday what you said about possibly re-spraying it and the feeling was generally against it.
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Al, I mentioned to several people at the boulder on Tuesday what you said about possibly re-spraying it and the feeling was generally against it.
thought it would be, it was just an idea for a low cost upgrade - think the trust have other ideas and a bit more money now anyway (it would be better to build new stuff, as the old boulder is ok) - pop down on monday evening if you can si, there'll be tea and buns ;)
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I use this place en famille quite a lot. We love it.
I'm against a respray, as it takes a fair while to them bed in and be comfy to climb on.
It's not too worn, so I don't believe such work is necessary to ensure its longevity.
As for extra work on the boulder... Taking it as read there is not enough cash for another boulder to put next to it and linked by an arch.... Which would be awesome!
I can't fault it as is, aprt from improving the drainage in the low long slopes traverse.
Does the money have to be sent on the boulder? We use the MTB trail there a lot too, a whole load more of the little north shore in the field adjacent would be a really good use of the space IMO.
I'll try to get to the meeting, but in theory I'm working until 18:00
Please put these thoughts forward in my absence.
Thanks for the post BTW.
Cheers.
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hi fatdoc, will relay your feedback to the team - think the cash is seperately allocated, and I might be wrong, but think that's it for the bike tracks - as to the climbing stuff we do have enough for another boulder but may try to spread it out a bit; thom's keen to create a small bit of the peak in heeley's backyard (maybe a dirty bridleway with loads of meatheads caning up and down in 4x4's)
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I should be popping in about 5ish
I like the idea of a less high boulder that little kids can top out on and get down without too much help - maybe a couple of sub 2m boulders with some very low undercuts for the strong girls and boys to do sit starts off? One in the shape of a dogs head, the other looking like an elephant.
I heard that some sort of slacklining anchors might be being considered seeing as how the big trees have gone? Obviously some sort of disclaimer saying that slacklining is stupid and can cause death should be carved into an adjacent tombstone.
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nice one lager - see you later
re. slacklining anchors, that's been suggested, and I do like the tombstone idea too - hope to get some street runners calling in for ideas as well...
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I like fatty's ideas too. We were there yesterday, it's turning into a great place, particularly for sprogs.
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I like fatty's ideas too. We were there in the pub next to the park yesterday, it's turning into a great place, particularly for sprogs.
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street runners
ooh, I'd forgotten about them - low boulders could suit them too?
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I like fatty's ideas too. We were there in the pub next to the park yesterday, it's turning into a great place, particularly for sprogs.
That as well. It's proximity to The Sheaf is also a massive bonus.
Helpfully the Shakespeare has a terrace bit that overlooks the new section of the kids park so parents can oversee their offspring whilst getting shitfaced. Or so it seemed.
And no, before anyone lagers comes out with another smartass comment, I've never been in that pub.....
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Helpfully the Shakespeare has a terrace bit that overlooks the new section of the kids park so parents can oversee their offspring whilst getting shitfaced. Or so it seemed.
And no, before anyone lagers comes out with another smartass comment, I've never been in that pub.....
Someone else has the same opinions of the Shakespeare as myself (and friends) it would seem. :lol:
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The scale model of the park with pieces of modelling clay to demonstrate boulder ideas was great
I'm 99% sure that I've convinced them to spend all the cash on a 16ft statue of me gazing poetically at The Sheaf View - with my back to The Shakespeare
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The scale model of the park with pieces of modelling clay to demonstrate boulder ideas was great
I'm 99% sure that I've convinced them to spend all the cash on a 16ft statue of me gazing poetically at The Sheaf View - with my back to The Shakespeare
Overhanging or slabby problems on the statue then? ;)
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16 foot statue that's a lot of mobility scooter lagers.
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the statue pose will be pretty much the same as that big one above Rio, but with my arms in the traditional 5-year-old-playing-at-aeroplanes position - palms down, one arm higher than the other, head slightly to one side
a sure winner
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Yeah, was good that. Loads more people than ever using the Heely Boulder last year. I think it's nudging into the same league as Broughton Wall.
Would be great to get another boulder but to be honest, the whole park is getting really good now. It's really being used a lot, and there was a lot of happiness there tonight.
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Jasp, less of the fatty name tag, I'm working on it. :doubt: FD fine ;)
So... What was this model... ?
Sounds good, I love this place... Got out of work 19:15
Sorry wasn't there...
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Jasp, less of the fatty name tag, I'm working on it. :doubt:
I wasn't talking about you you dozy get. :tease:
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I'm 99% sure that I've convinced them to spend all the cash on a 16ft statue
the deals done rob - 'angel of sheffield' is on its way with two huge crutches to support the arms ;)
So... What was this model... ?
we had some hallam architecture students make a scale model of the park, 1cm = 1m (was just missing a toy train chugging round to complete the look)
thanks for popping down all who did, the hallam girls thought we all had big hands!
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the statue pose will be pretty much the same as that big one above Rio, but with my arms in the traditional 5-year-old-playing-at-aeroplanes position - palms down, one arm higher than the other, head slightly to one side
a sure winner
(http://adventurefortwo.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/an-idiot-abroad-brazil.jpg)
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I'm 99% sure that I've convinced them to spend all the cash on a 16ft statue of me gazing poetically at The Sheaf View - with my back to The Shakespeare
I think to make Jesus imagery you are trying to create a bit more obvious you should have pigs at your feet. Like this... ;)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Qk4MgSgC2Rc/TJPqIMfr74I/AAAAAAAAAKQ/uBQ6dPQZHqQ/s200/Jesus+and+lambs.jpg)
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the hallam girls thought we all had big hands!
I didn't notice them looking at my hands
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Loads more people than ever using the Heely Boulder last year. I think it's nudging into the same league as Broughton Wall.
hey grimer, so would a broughton-style 'board'/kudos/crag-x thing (which was being talked about a little bit) go down well? al et al (see what I did there?) canvassed the opinion that the most used aspect of the existing boulder was that third with the open corner.
oh, mods - I'm part of Zig Zag Climbing Walls - apologies for the slight commercial intrusion, so to speak :blink:
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I forgot to propose some sort plaque to remind everyone of the time that Cupboard broke his ankle falling off the boulder - he was painted green at the time to look like The Incredible Hulk and may have been drinking.
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I'm afraid there seems to be some sort of copyright infringement with the Lagerstarfish "Angel of the fairly north" edifice...
Apparently, Lagerstarfishworld (tm) has just opened near Xionxing in NW China.. It features a accurate re-creation of the Sheaf, a ride involving drifting Chevy Mini vans and all the staff have to dress up as Mini-lagers....
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you're thinking of "Ragerstarfishword (tm)"
I hold the rights to all badly pronounced variations; and am quite happy with my proposed cut of the Heeley deal
I am not a racialist, but I don't see why short people should get away with paying less for entry into strip clubs
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....err
Any info on the proposed model plz guys?
Cheers
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Any info on the proposed model plz guys?
if you mean proposed boulders fatdoc, not yet - going to take all the ideas back to the drawing board, take an asprin and have a think - we've got a few more sessions with resident's (some are not keen, so need to get round their issues), and then hopefully we'll know where we can build - I'll update this thread with any more meetings etc when I know...
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Thanks
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got a request from heeley trust, thought someone may fancy it...
I’m trying to get some quotes for climbing instructors to come and work for us at the Heeley Festival on the existing boulder, generally showing people the ropes and encouraging people to come and give it a go. Thom suggested that some of our regular users may be interested in doing this and may have the relevant qualifications.
Many Thanks
Beverley Nunn
Events & Involvement Organiser
http://heeleyonline.org/heeley-festival/heeley-festival-2012/ (http://heeleyonline.org/heeley-festival/heeley-festival-2012/)
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I once ran a 6 week course for kids on the heeley boulders over the summer hols - with Silvia Fitzpatrick, absolutely hilarious! And incredibly well-paid from some ridiculous EU fund...
I think I'll be busy on my own stall at the heeley festival though.
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Similarly an elderly lady on my street asked me the other day if I knew any climbers who'd be willing to do a few hours of this kind of thing on the Totley/Green Oak boulder for a Totley festival on the 13th May. I don't think it was paid work. I'd have considered it myself but it's my wedding aniv and have made plans. Anyone else willing to help?
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on the existing boulder, generally showing people the ropes
I think Bev has slightly missunderstood...
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Just make sure none of the kids have parents who are loss adjusters!
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thanks lucy, you're busy and so is silvia I guess ;)
this would be paid work (not a 'ridiculous EU fund' though) so legit instructors preferable, although thom and bev are keen to use anyone local who uses the boulders in sheffield and I'm sure they'd sort out the loss adjusting
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It was an occluded reference to a recent news item on liability (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/law-and-order/9146616/The-5ft-leap-at-Craggy-Island-that-may-end-in-payout.html).
Although I'd hope parents can see it for what it is unlike that dumb woman.
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I'll pass this on to my housemate who uses the boulders himself. He's an instructor, so might be busy over the Summer. He's back this evening, so I'll let him know.
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Al, rather off-topic but how are the funds for these boulders allocated? It'd be nice to have one in Graves Park, it being the biggest park in Sheffield and all (and right next to where I live :whistle:)
Is there any way of registering an interest in having one put up?
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:goodidea:
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how are the funds for these boulders allocated? It'd be nice to have one in Graves Park
- most seem to be a combination of relevant park/area groups (heeley trust, st mary's community centre, cemetry road residents assoc. etc) and the local council (there's a landscape/parks boss in sheffield who rates them)
- some money is local council, while others are national/euro funding (haven't done one yet that has been privately funded - although they'd be great in a climbing wall car park for the summer?)
- generally they seem to be in areas of regeneration, or with social issues; this may mean parks like graves/endcliffe stand less chance of qualifying even though they'd have much larger numbers of climbers (although i'd thought totley would come in that bracket and they had one built)
- i bet graves park has an active management group, so maybe make out the area's gone to the dogs and propose it bubbs? (they're not cheap though, 20k+ for a small one ;-)
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Bubs, the peeps to tap up are the "friends of Graves park"
Cheers Al.
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just a quick update on this topic; we've finally got down to making these boulders, and have been on site this week installing and carving (sam and rob from 'zig zag', 'galeforce' concrete sprayers and myself) - its been a long process but they're nearly done - last day of carving tomorrow, then some landscaping and cleaning up over the next few weeks - pop down for a butchers anytime, and a climb soon (in the small wooded corner 50m from the sheaf) - hopefully they'll be more testing than the others ;)
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looks good from what I've seen
must get down to bag some FAs
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Any pics please??
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This is off Zig Zags FB page, try there if it doesn't link properly
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/295889_10151183669553220_1674533976_n.jpg)
Looks great!
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Wow, that actually looks like rock! How long before there's an exact replica of Isatis in Eccleshall woods? :please:
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That looks very very cool. Lovingly hand crafted crimps.
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Hopefully it won't be the preserve of the strong as kids can benefit greatly from these and having pockets that can be eliminated in favour of the crimp by the strong means it gets used by everyone in the "community".
Going to the Sheaf this evening so will check them out.
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wow.... does look very crimpy though
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Awesome!
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anyone know what the rules are?
obviously heels and toe hooks are out
thumbs should be out - including thumb-reinforced crimps
is it half crimps only ? no full crimps?
sit starts only
got to get these sorted out so I feel better about being burned off by 5 year olds in wellies
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Hopefully it won't be the preserve of the strong as kids can benefit greatly from these and having pockets that can be eliminated in favour of the crimp by the strong means it gets used by everyone in the "community".
Going to the Sheaf this evening so will check them out.
Let the "community" eat slabby cake round the back. They already have a boulder full of jugs in Healey. Bring on the shit slopers and minging crimps I say.
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Hopefully it won't be the preserve of the strong as kids can benefit greatly from these and having pockets that can be eliminated in favour of the crimp by the strong means it gets used by everyone in the "community".
First time I've ever heard of artifical boulder makers being elitist. Admit, you just want some things on it that you can do!
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Is this new boulder going to be Heeley North and the old one Heeley South?
In my mind it is already labelled Sheaf View View Boulder
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Hopefully it won't be the preserve of the strong as kids can benefit greatly from these and having pockets that can be eliminated in favour of the crimp by the strong means it gets used by everyone in the "community".
First time I've ever heard of artifical boulder makers being elitist. Admit, you just want some things on it that you can do!
True I would like to get up it too, but its community money that has gone into it and it should therefore be available to all the community and not the few who made loud noises at the consultations about having hard problems only (its not the makers, but those who guided them).
I think the artificial boulders are ideally suited for everyone in this regard because the "jugs" are pockets which don't protrude like bolt-ons at the wall do which get in your way.
Its not hard to eliminate such jugs when you want to bone down on the crimps as they don't protrude.
I just don't think that such a facility has to be all of any one type of hold.
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What about a wheelchair ramp too?
I'm being flippant, but really I don't think it would be a great injustice if half of one of Sheffield's many artificial boulders was just a bit more hardcore and aesthetically pleasing than the stultifying logic of catering to the LCD demands. I disagree re pockets, they are only marginally less intrusive than other hold types, not to mention being inviting apertures for scrotes disenfranchised younger members of the community, to deposit broken glass and dog-eggs.
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No problem with there being harder sections as long as there is still stuff for everyone to use & enjoy on the new stuff (and yes I am shit, but always trying to improve).
The boulders are great as you do get lots of kids taking an interest, particularly at Heeley.
I guess being intrusive is better than being extrusive as its only the willingness to go for the hold you intend to rather than having to reach round a blob.
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Bonjoy is right. One side of one boulder being slightly elitist hardly affects the whole facility and can only be a good thing. Especially if it looks as nice as this appears to.
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Looks superb.
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think we're going to really upset slackline - it's mainly dodgy slopers and crimps up overhanging walls, and even the slabs round the back are thin (although there is a way down the bigger slab)
we had a great brief for this; make it elite and go for it, make sure kids can't easily get up it, or hang out ontop.
i've done over 15 boulders in the uk and this has been the only time that a client has taken such a risk, and sheffield maybe the only town that could work?
as bonjoy says there are plenty of easier boulders in town, especially the one 50m away which caters for a much more varied user - the consultations and the funding stipulations also backed up our instinct for something harder, although the proof will be in the pudding or whatever the phrase is
I'll post some pics over the weekend if I can get it together...
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its community money that has gone into it and it should therefore be available to all the community and not the few who made loud noises at the consultations about having hard problems only (its not the makers, but those who guided them).
There are a lot of neglected artificial boulders around the country, which were designed so that kids could get up them. Kids did get up them, then got bored and never came back. The key to making these things popular is attracting keen climbers.
Imagine having a boulder with genuinely inspiring problems... Or a boulder as good as a woody for training on... Or a steep linkups venue like a mini hollow mountain cave... Or a 30m traverse wall with a line of slopers, a line of underclings, a line of crimps... Or a boulder with replicas of the top thirty problems in the world...
I mean, imagine having artificial boulders that climbers would dream of, rather than just make the best of. It's never happened before. Perhaps this is the beginning.
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And how regularly does the boulder at St Mary's get used? Kids don't travel to play. :ohmy:
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And how regularly does the boulder at St Mary's get used? Kids don't travel to play.
the kids have got tons of stuff in this park to play, we need to play too
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just been down and caught Al stroking the holds and trying to work out whether they slope too much
the steep side looks great
standing underneath it, I felt like I'd want to have a pad under me for the top-out
the main lines are... well, actual lines
looking hard enough without having to eliminate holds (including the slab)
even the descent looks to be Font 4
the arêtes are very cool
looks more Cresciano than Font or Peak
I forgot to chuck a few rocks to test whether it is an actual stone's throw from The Sheaf View
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we're down monday finishing off so if anyone can make it pop down and give us some feedback on holds and whether we need to adjust anything with a chisel and hammer ;)
got a couple of pics from flickr:
(http://[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/8193516098/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8064/8193516098_4794307712.jpg)[/url]
heeleyboulderfront (http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/8193516098/#) by allenwilliams (http://www.flickr.com/people/91196167@N00/), on Flickr[/img]
(http://[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/8193513936/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8490/8193513936_32c7665a69.jpg)[/url]
heeleyboulderback (http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/8193513936/#) by allenwilliams (http://www.flickr.com/people/91196167@N00/), on Flickr[/img]
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we're down monday finishing off so if anyone can make it pop down and give us some feedback on holds and whether we need to adjust anything with a chisel and hammer ;)
got a couple of pics from flickr:
(http://[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/8193516098/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8064/8193516098_4794307712.jpg)[/url]
heeleyboulderfront (http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/8193516098/#) by allenwilliams (http://www.flickr.com/people/91196167@N00/), on Flickr[/img]
(http://[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/8193513936/][img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8490/8193513936_32c7665a69.jpg)[/url]
heeleyboulderback (http://www.flickr.com/photos/91196167@N00/8193513936/#) by allenwilliams (http://www.flickr.com/people/91196167@N00/), on Flickr[/img]
bloody hell good effort!
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Those two aretes in the middle are two close together, you'll have crack climbers turning up.
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Looks great. Reminds me of the Yoghurt Hypnotist bit at Rowtor.
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I want one, do they do a BMC discount?
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we had a test climb today, and all seems ready to go - think the fence is down tomorrow (friday)
pads are advised and feel free to wirebrush or scrape the holds if they need it - its pretty rough, but will wear down fairly quick, a bit like ricky hatton ;)
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Those two aretes in the middle are two close together, you'll have crack climbers turning up.
Or even worse, people using kneebars.
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al, how much do these things cost, and can I pay for you to stealthily drop it in the middle of Union Terrace Gardens in Aberdeen?
Seriously though, Duthie Park in Aberdeen is in the middle of a large restoration project, how do you go about getting these things installed? Do you approach the councils or do they approach you? Union Terrace Gardens is (possibly) getting a big uplift project too.
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try getting in touch with the relevant park group and lobby them a bit chris - they might not know much about them, and you could act as a consultant, although if its the council they can be slow (and fairly skint these days) - maybe get in touch with sam and rob (zig zag) who did our latest boulder.
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Will have a shot, although I think with Duthie Park it might be a bit late; they are already behind schedule and over budget. Surprise.
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popped a few pics of the process and test climb up on my sketchbook today http://50folds.tumblr.com/ (http://50folds.tumblr.com/)
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Looks brilliant Al.
I can imagine one day we might have ten of these in a park and we'd have something really brilliant.
What did it cost?
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Just been down to check these out, and have a do in me trainers, well impressed!! Looks like the local chavs are gonna have to learn to jam/off width!!!!
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What's it made from? Will it polish quickly?
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Nice one Al and all others involved :2thumbsup:
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What did it cost?
they're not cheap, which is why there may never be a park full (fewer are being made now, compared to 5 yrs ago) - usually around 20-30k, although not sure of the final cost of this one exactly as it was part of a larger park revamp - most of the money goes on the concrete spraying and ground works, we see very little of it at the end - its a labour of love :-*
What's it made from? Will it polish quickly?
EP foam blocks, wrapped in mesh then sprayed with concrete at high pressure, then carved - it does polish, which is why we left it a bit rough to start with so even if it shines up it should always have some texture (it can be wire brushed and scraped, sand papered etc, although it isn't as hard as rock so go carefully)
thanks bubbs ;)
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Have you though of, or would you object to, folk painting holds with climbing wall style friction paint or similar?
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not sure if you've checked it out yet bonjoy but don't think this boulder will need extra friction for a good while!
also the feedback from local climbers, that use the other park boulder, was that they liked the polish on that one.
we're up for any appropriation of them (coloured dots to mark problems etc), but not sure about friction paint, it could just wear off? (they aren't supposed to be as refined as a climbing wall, and they all get tagged and abused to an extent)
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aprt from when hot... when really i shouldnt have been there... ive not had any problems at the worn ones with polish, though the new ones look hard!!
I would love some colour dots to get my problem mind thinking....
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not sure if you've checked it out yet bonjoy but don't think this boulder will need extra friction for a good while!
also the feedback from local climbers, that use the other park boulder, was that they liked the polish on that one.
we're up for any appropriation of them (coloured dots to mark problems etc), but not sure about friction paint, it could just wear off? (they aren't supposed to be as refined as a climbing wall, and they all get tagged and abused to an extent)
We have come up with a very easy and effective way of "frictioning" up holds with a bit of resin. We'd be happy to do it if there was demand, but the consensus at the moment seems to be that polish is good!
Thanks to everyone for the feedback.
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think zig zag/hdt are planning an opening on sat 15th, sam/rob/maria? - not sure what their plans are but pop down for a climb at least (although it's useable now)
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yes, there is an opening on the 15th, between 1pm and 2pm.
http://www.facebook.com/events/424096757657129/ (http://www.facebook.com/events/424096757657129/)
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Just got this in the (e)mail
(http://i.imgur.com/s99R7.jpg)
Weather forecast looks too good to be in the city though.
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we had a good ribbon cutting/climbing session on the heeley park boulder last weekend - it was nice to see some faces old and new down there :)
http://heeleypark.org/2012/12/19/boulder-officially-open/ (http://heeleypark.org/2012/12/19/boulder-officially-open/)
I'll be helping run some 'drop in' bouldering sessions with the park (on the old and new boulders) in the new year, for local park dwellers, kids and anyone who would like to get their heads round it - if anyone fancies helping out in any capacity let me know, and anyone who has kids that would benefit from joining in with a similar age group, and a 'low pressure' approach, would be welcome - I'll post up some flyers when we are sorted with dates and weather etc.
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Pooch!
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Pooch!
Clearly just passing by on her way home from a lunchtime drinking session at The Sheaf
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Heeley Hang (http://heeleyonline.org/2013/02/07/volunteer-climbers-needed-for-the-heeley-hang/)
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(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8390/8527218747_4cddb6f377_c.jpg)
would be great to get some good problems set, so all are welcome :)
we'll be scribbling down lines that get done, so we can make a starter topo
can't believe its not been tagged yet either, youth of today!
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http://www.facebook.com/events/131577030354870/ (http://www.facebook.com/events/131577030354870/)