UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Teaboy on February 13, 2009, 01:46:40 pm
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Apparently this has just been done!! :jaw:
Sorry I posted this in haste before realising its not really my news to give so I've edited out the name because I don't know how to delete the whole thread. :spank:
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so who's done it then?
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(http://www.healthfinancenews.com/wp-content/uploads/dangle-a-carrot.jpg)
:-\
you've had 61 views, i'm pretty sure someone will have read the original post.
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I'd rule me out, I'm at work :(
Come on lad, spit it out!
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(http://www.healthfinancenews.com/wp-content/uploads/dangle-a-carrot.jpg)
(http://www.aolcdn.com/aoluk_photos/09/06/20080326130909990001)
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i didn't do it either. anyone else here not done it? a process of elimination...
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It wasn't me. Sounds interesting/significant. What's the history of the problem?
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It wasn't me, my moneys on John Dunne...
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(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/b/b1/Shaggy-wasn't-me.jpg)
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It's alright Teaboy, I'll put my bashfulness to one side on this occasion. You go ahead.
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Aww feck, I've got myslef in a right dilly pickle now as I don't know the climber and I wasn't even a first hand witness so realised after posting that I should have kept my gob shut. After the Scott\Liam brouha I thought it would have been better to wait untill someone else confirmed it themselves which is why I immedeately sent an email to the mods to delete the thread. If it's true (and I've no reason to suspect it isn't) it'll be all over the web tonight I've no doubt.
I also don't want to across as one of those types who likes to make out they're part of a scene or the font of all knowledge. I was just told by someone who was there and in the excitement thought it was worth sharing. I then thought better of it in light of the fact that sometimes people prefer to keep things under their hat or possibly want to control how news of their ascents get out. Hopefully it won't be long, in fact I'd be surprised if more pople don't already know as its not some dark horse who cylced out there at 5AM this morning!
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I think you're likely to avoid that brouha in this case Teaboy.
Jordan?
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so you're saying Scotty's done it then? AWESOME.
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Simidhh O'Connogoogle - first hard ascent with witnesses - was being chased by the SAS at the time...
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Sadly I am also having to rule myself out of the running for this as: 1. It is probably way too hard for me and 2. I have no idea where it is.
bluebrad
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I think we should all jump to conclusions and pick a likely ascentionist, its got to be way more fun than waiting around for a UKC exclusive?
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Almost certainly wasn't me, so I'm not in the picture for this one either.
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Sadly I am also having to rule myself out of the running for this as: 1. It is probably way too hard for me and 2. I have no idea where it is.
bluebrad
Its the line left of New Statesman that Ryan P got the FA of a few weeks back (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=10798.25) (the route name comes from carving in the rock at base).
And despite knowing where the line is I can rule myself out of having climbed it as I've never been to Illkley.
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Oh come on - it can't be that hard to guess which other Pearson might have made this ascent?
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I think we should all jump to conclusions and pick a likely ascentionist, its got to be way more fun than waiting around for a UKC exclusive?
I'd go with your guess of Jordan
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must be someone who's pretty tall I recon. Banks? Travs?
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No one else saw the original post? For shame. s
till, I saw it, but it would be rude of me to drop names.
However, now I'm playing games.
Perhaps I can do the auto suggestion thing? That's my aim. s
o please don't shoot me down in flames.
Remember, I said nothing. I'm not to blame. s
orry this reads like patrul. It's not really the same. s
ee if you can finish off this sentance. It was .......
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p.s. Teaboy - I wouldn't worry! This is how news generally reaches us - rumours first, epic sprawling blog posts a week later...
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I think we should all jump to conclusions and pick a likely ascentionist, its got to be way more fun than waiting around for a UKC exclusive?
I'd go with your guess of Jordan
Jordan rang me this morning and said he was Peak-bound.
I can however confirm that it wasn't me.
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Maybe that was to throw you off the scent?
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Dunning?
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Are you people just shit at rhymes? :lol:
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The big question is; Did he use pads? :shrug:
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I'm guessing its some guy who's the male offspring of a sand-apple.
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You have to be careful with those giant fruity foods. They look nice, but they often contain worrying E numbers.
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Dunning?
......all the clues, rhymes and miss spells say J.P.
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Are you people just shit at rhymes? :lol:
you mean like you? ;D
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It was dave mccleod and he's downgraded it... probably.
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Dunning?
......all the clues, rhymes and miss spells say J.P.
that would make sense as I'm sure whilst it was still a project reference was made on the blogosphere to what is now Gerty..
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Are you people just shit at rhymes? :lol:
you mean like you? ;D
Oh dear, oh dear.
My genius is wasted here.
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I wonder who Gertie was? I like to think she was a rather flightly little piece.
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No one else saw the original post? For shame. s
till, I saw it, but it would be rude of me to drop names.
However, now I'm playing games.
Perhaps I can do the auto suggestion thing? That's my aim. s
o please don't shoot me down in flames.
Remember, I said nothing. I'm not to blame. s
orry this reads like patrul. It's not really the same. s
ee if you can finish off this sentance. It was .......
..... someone with a lisp?
..... talks like Goron Brown?
......someone whose username ends _ _ _ _ _ _.s?
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Sorry to ruin the elimination process, but I cannot rule myself out entirely: I know where the route is, am prone to sleepwalking, and have no witnesses or recollection for the period from 10pm thurs to 11 am fri. I am also tall and woke up with seeping fingertips. Admittedly the ascent would be a considerable step up in difficulty from a previous best of E3 but.....
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keenus, didn't ask him about pads and he didn't want to comment on the grade just yet.
Bon fuckin effort yoot!
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Yeah, good effort. :bow:
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Well... it should at least make for an interesting blog post...
Bon Effort, :great: ( E5? )
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Well... it should at least make for an interesting blog post...
Bon Effort, :great: ( E5? )
Seriously good repeat, although I hope James has more dignity than to comment on the grade.
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[/quote]
Seriously good repeat, although I hope James has more dignity than to comment on the grade.
[/quote]
Yeah that would mean he was UKC fodder straight away! - effort James!
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Seriously good repeat, although I hope James has more dignity than to comment on the grade.
James updated his blog yesterday with a post entirely about grades and no mention of Gerty.... the plot thickens. Hopefully it was James who repeated it, I heard he was already trying it before Ryan bagged it. Maybe we are at the mercy of Climb playing the 'exclusive' game again.
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There's a mention of it on the climb website:
http://www.climbmagazine.com/jpilkley.aspx (http://www.climbmagazine.com/jpilkley.aspx)
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Mystery solved then, bon effort James. Strange climb seem unable to use the name though... I'll be interested to hear how it compares with The Groove, always looked harder to me.
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I don't lie adam, it wasn't a mystery.
Pads were used, James will be putting something on his blog when he gets time.
It was much harder for James as Ryan lanked all the hard moves, Quote "probably impossible for dwarfs" and probably even harder for anyone that isn't tall or doesn't have a big span.
Hopefully he'll give his opinion on the grade despite all the shit over grades recently.
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Sorry word, forgot your post.
It was much harder for James as Ryan lanked all the hard moves,
I thought they were about the same height, long arms must be useful then.
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Maybe we are at the mercy of Climb playing the 'exclusive' game again.
i can see simmonite at the top of the crag now, cigar in corner of mouth, canon in one hand, sniper rifle in the other, taking potshots at any chavs turning up who look like they've got a cameraphone.
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I thought they were about the same height, long arms must be useful then.
So did I but it seems Ryan has got quite a bit of reach on James
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Just seen the pic in Climber as it happens, Ryan does look to be making every inch count.
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Maybe we are at the mercy of Climb playing the 'exclusive' game again.
i can see simmonite at the top of the crag now, cigar in corner of mouth, canon in one hand, sniper rifle in the other, taking potshots at any chavs turning up who look like they've got a cameraphone.
Can somebody who is better with photoshop than I please create a picture of a youthful and confused looking Keenus with Simmonite and M.Ryan whispering in his ears a la Wormtounge and King Theoden?
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Hi everyone, sorry to disappoint but no exclusive, no nothing, with no pressure or anything. Just a nice chilled day out and some nice pics to boot. I've only just had chance to get to a computer and sort them out. You never know, I may even stick some on t'web.
An awesome effort from James and then we went to Shipley Glen.
Oh yeh and smoking's bad for you ;)
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Oh yeh and smoking's bad for you ;)
Not as bad as actually being on fire though.
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Good work yoot. Monster!
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Effort! :bow:
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http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/)
a few words from jp on what its like to be on top of a fiesty yorkshire lass. ;)
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Ooh err.... ;)
Good work!
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Great effort JP.
'To pad or not to pad'.
Who cares? It's a blind alley.
You can't un-invent pads. They are a fact of climbing life- you might as well argue against chalk these days.
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James' pads thing is reminiscent of another old route. Years ago, Andy Pollitt was trying to resist the onset of redpointing in Britain as it threatened the established British yo-yo method. When he did the first ascent of Chimes of Freedom at the Tor, every time he fell off, he lowered back down to the ground. I think it took him about seven days to eventually do it in this style. After, Jerry and Martin Atkinson worked it and did it in a session.
Is this true, any of you older timers out there?
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Yeah I remember that story. Seems totally bonkers now!
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I think the not-using-pads thing is a lot more valid than most people give credit for. its not like just saying you're not going to use cams. big pad stacks assume that you're climbing in a big team. lets not forget everyone owns a set of cams and they fit in your bag. most people only own 1 or 2 pads, so generally all the talk of "these routes are safe with pads" assume that whenever you want to go and do your route you've also got a dozen mates all with the same idea. this ain't always going to be the case, and hence its just not practical to carry a dozen mats to the crag on your own or with one mate, not forgetting that owning a dozen pads is going to cost you the top side of a grand. headpointing new routes mat-free is still going to have a place.
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If people want to do mat free ascents, ground-up sport routes then they can. In just the same way as people can headpoint, use stacks of pads and dog routes. It doesn't matter, people should just be honest about what they have done.
To discount one or two of these different styles as ridiculous is, well, ridiculous. They are all equally silly and pointless. After all "there's an easy path to the top round the side here mate"....
And back on topic, bon effort James.
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When a good friend of mine decided he was ready to throw himself off the top of Snap Decision, me and another friend managed to collect 8 pads together for the landing with not too much bother on the morning of the ascent (or descent). I find it hard to believe that peeps in Sheff couldn't ring around and secure the lend of as many pads as they thought they required for a project without too much sweat.
Amazing bit of rock, great effort James.
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You make the most of what you have. If you have access or mates have access to lots of pads, you use them.......if not you don't. simple.
Jerry was doing this years ago on stuff, its just that he happended to own a shit load of big blue mats!! Technology changes, move with the times. I for one find it exciting and inspiring to think what is possible in the future with pads....
Great effort on the route James!
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was talking to jerry briefly about pads the other day in the context of ulysses. can't remember specifically what he said but the gist was that if he was doing ulysses now he'd use pads. times are changing. you still couldn't pad out indian face though. it's horses for courses.
echo that NCB - if you want to get hold of some extra pads for something you certainly can, no bother.
great effort ryan and james.
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can everyone get a grip re- not using pads.... if a new bit of gear comes out everyone will use it! ( or we really are stupid) any non brit reading this is going to think we have lost it!! perhaps we have!! at this rate they are going to be changing our grading system for us!! lets use all available equipment to make dangerous routes as safe as possible, since that is the whole concept of trad climbing. And maybe even start giving things realistic grades, then all these sport climbig chumps will stop trying to fuck with us.
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James' pads thing is reminiscent of another old route. Years ago, Andy Pollitt was trying to resist the onset of redpointing in Britain as it threatened the established British yo-yo method. When he did the first ascent of Chimes of Freedom at the Tor, every time he fell off, he lowered back down to the ground. I think it took him about seven days to eventually do it in this style. After, Jerry and Martin Atkinson worked it and did it in a session.
Is this true, any of you older timers out there?
I think it was longer than seven days - I recall something ridiculous like 13. He was wearing bad (as in so bad, they were good) tights too. I've got an old copy of High packed away somewhere with the pics.
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I remember a pic of Basher repeating it in an awful pair of black lycra with patterns on them.
Andy wrote a couple of amazing articles at the time, one was about a summer he had doing lots of limestone at Pen Trwyn, Raven Tor, Malham, Castell y Gwynet and routes on North Stack wall. He seemed to do shit loads of really high standard stuff.
Someone point an Off Topic gun at me.
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2387/2462980011_c275df9942.jpg)
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/c/cb/Topic_(chocolate_bar).jpg/180px-Topic_(chocolate_bar).jpg)
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Ahhh got me...
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I still fill my trousers above pads. A ground fall is a ground fall. Well done boys.
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Amen to that Baron. The most sense spoken in a long time.
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there is some interesting footage of JP on gerty b on the hotaches blog...
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This video (http://www.hotaches.com/media/TWLONS2.MOV) of him falling off a lot practising - good reference video to see what it's like.
P.S. I fill my pants a *LOT* more without pads down.
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This video (http://www.hotaches.com/media/TWLONS2.MOV) of him falling off a lot practising - good reference video to see what it's like.
P.S. I fill my pants a *LOT* more without pads down.
but do you do it anymore when you go climbing.
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pic from James' blog
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EADs8ObEaOM/SZqzAVnHq1I/AAAAAAAAAFU/K1KsrbuUZJo/s1600-h/web+Gerty+Berwick+JP+BW.bmp (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EADs8ObEaOM/SZqzAVnHq1I/AAAAAAAAAFU/K1KsrbuUZJo/s1600-h/web+Gerty+Berwick+JP+BW.bmp)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EADs8ObEaOM/SZqzAVnHq1I/AAAAAAAAAFU/K1KsrbuUZJo/s1600-h/web+Gerty+Berwick+JP+BW.bmp)
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If the route is safe with pads, shouldn't it just be given a bouldering grade rather than the E9?
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no, because its a route, not a boulder problem.
why do you think he's got a rope on?
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pic from James' blog
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EADs8ObEaOM/SZqzAVnHq1I/AAAAAAAAAFU/K1KsrbuUZJo/s1600-h/web+Gerty+Berwick+JP+BW.bmp (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EADs8ObEaOM/SZqzAVnHq1I/AAAAAAAAAFU/K1KsrbuUZJo/s1600-h/web+Gerty+Berwick+JP+BW.bmp)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EADs8ObEaOM/SZqzAVnHq1I/AAAAAAAAAFU/K1KsrbuUZJo/s1600-h/web+Gerty+Berwick+JP+BW.bmp)
Nice vest!
If the route is safe with pads, shouldn't it just be given a bouldering grade rather than the E9?
The pads help mitigate some of the injuries you might sustain should you part company with the rock in the lower section before any gear placements are reached. Have a look at the various pics as to where said gear placements are and decide whether you'd like to climb it sans pads. Bouldering grades have been mooted as they give a bit more information as to the technicalities involved.
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If the route is safe with pads, shouldn't it just be given a bouldering grade rather than the E9?
Hey Tim........ the start is highball Font summat, followed by an E5 6b, thus the rope.
Apparently there's gear on the upper section.
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I have to say that watching James climb this route was utterly awesome. He made E9 look like HVS, he told jokes mid route and was generally a really cool and sorted guy.
After he climbed his route he took the time to show me the moves on my current project Baby Spice. He of course did it first go and I am now armed with the knowledge (at least) to give it a good bash.
James is a legend an deserves a lot of respect.
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I have to say that watching James climb this route was utterly awesome. He made E9 look like HVS, he told jokes mid route and was generally a really cool and sorted guy.
After he climbed his route he took the time to show me the moves on my current project Baby Spice. He of course did it first go and I am now armed with the knowledge (at least) to give it a good bash.
James is a legend an deserves a lot of respect.
Nice copy and paste job from your post on UKC. ::)
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he told jokes mid route
Ah, but mid-crux, did he ask Emily what was for supper that night?
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I still fill my trousers above pads. A ground fall is a ground fall. Well done boys.
...but a ground fall that hurts a lot less.
Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.
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Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.
You wouldn't use pads if the first gear placement was 25 ft off the ground? That's not ethics, that's just stupidity.
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Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.
You wouldn't use pads if the first gear placement was 25 ft off the ground? That's not ethics, that's just stupidity.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNb9GvRKCec (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNb9GvRKCec) <--- Simes (http://video.google.co.uk/videosearch?q=simes303) :whistle:
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...but a ground fall that hurts a lot less.
Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.
Yeah, extensive headpointing is a lot more morally virtuous :-\
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i don't think not using pads is necessarily stupidity, in the same way that soloing a geared route isn't necessarily stupid. it can actually be less faff. Plus if you've headpointed something to the stage that you're sure you won't fall off then it could be argued whats the point of putting pads down, since if you thought you could fall you wouldn't go for it in the first place.
personally, i'd love to see that ethic old-school ethic return to prominence that you can headpoint something, but then you've got to do it solo (i.e. eithout gear or mats) when you lead it.
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Good points. But in the case of a hard route with poor gear (such as Gerty Berwick), choosing not to pad out a landing during the lead attempt would not be clever when a fall is almost guaranteed before you reach protection. To be accused of 'cheating' is ridiculous when your just trying to avoid bad injury or even death.
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Good points. But in the case of a hard route with poor gear (such as Gerty Berwick), choosing not to pad out a landing during the lead attempt would not be clever when a fall is almost guaranteed before you reach protection. To be accused of 'cheating' is ridiculous when your just trying to avoid bad injury or even death.
Err, what you've written is something of an oxymoron, since on a lead attempt I'm pretty sure the aim is to guarantee that you don't fall.
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:yawn:
This will run and run and I've had enough of it. There's no right or wrong answer, just different types of ascent. As someone sensible said, as long as everyone's being honest about what they've done and how they've done it, who cares?
Good effort James by the way. The route looks amazing.
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Err, what you've written is something of an oxymoron, since on a lead attempt I'm pretty sure the aim is to guarantee that you don't fall.
:oops:
It didn't quite manage to order my thoughts onto the keyboard properly. The thing is that Gerty Berwick is dynamic, and no matter how much headpointing you do, it seems likely from watching the video that a fall is almost inevitable. So choosing not to use pads for the sake of ethics would be a bad call.
:yawn:
This will run and run and I've had enough of it. There's no right or wrong answer, just different types of ascent. As someone sensible said, as long as everyone's being honest about what they've done and how they've done it, who cares?
Good effort James by the way. The route looks amazing.
:agree:
That's enough UKC-esque bickering for one day.
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Nice copy and paste job from your post on UKC. ::)
Is that bad form? I'll get with the programme one day.
Hey Mr Lincoln have you finished reading those Climber's Club journals yet? If Teaboy is who I think he might be then he's probably still cross I gave them away!
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Nice copy and paste job from your post on UKC. ::)
Is that bad form? I'll get with the programme one day.
Hey Mr Lincoln have you finished reading those Climber's Club journals yet? If Teaboy is who I think he might be then he's probably still cross I gave them away!
Ahh, right! Thats you... Yes, they are actually sitting in my attic. Prob gathering dust.....
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Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.
You wouldn't use pads if the first gear placement was 25 ft off the ground? That's not ethics, that's just stupidity.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNb9GvRKCec (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNb9GvRKCec) <--- Simes (http://video.google.co.uk/videosearch?q=simes303) :whistle:
No pads there...
Off topic though. The Ilkley thing looks superb. Well done.
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No pads there...
Thats why I posted it.