UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: shark on March 19, 2016, 10:36:02 am
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https://johnroberts.me/outdoors/2016/03/10-things-ive-learned-about-climbers-elbow-or-medial-epicondylitis/
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Good article. Thing that worked for me was correcting my posture and getting my shoulders back and down. I found something on YouTube for shoulder impingement that did the trick. Still a very slight thing there but couldn't call it a pain if that makes sense and still a work in progress. Every thing else I tried reduced the pain to a manageable level, but never cleared it. I now only do the shoulder impingement exercises/ stretches.
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I was passed the same nugget of advice (increasing the load), probably third hand from the same source; it really made a difference to me (as did a new funky sideways mouse).
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Seriously considering the sideways mouse, you're the 2nd person to say they helped. They just seem so expensive though :'( on the bright side, I find computer use messes up my elbows way more than climbing does so who knows!
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http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/miceandtrackballs/wireless/Logitech/910-001882.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwt763BRDZx_Xg3-Pv2cABEiQAoDfeGF6bRL85uErjonX1-5rcKhUOy8lIR1n_CRGaSKfT4LAaAgqL8P8HAQ#utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=products (http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/miceandtrackballs/wireless/Logitech/910-001882.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwt763BRDZx_Xg3-Pv2cABEiQAoDfeGF6bRL85uErjonX1-5rcKhUOy8lIR1n_CRGaSKfT4LAaAgqL8P8HAQ#utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=products)
I have got one of these and it definatly helped. Took an hour or so to the the hang of it.
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Seriously considering the sideways mouse, you're the 2nd person to say they helped. They just seem so expensive though :'( on the bright side, I find computer use messes up my elbows way more than climbing does so who knows!
Who employs you? Mine came about from a DSE (Display Screen Equipment) assessment (on which I wrote something about elbow pain and that I'd read about the use of such mice) and I didn't pay a penny (Evoluent VerticalMouse 3). It has the added benefit that nobody else can use your machine as they take a bit of getting used to (for me a lot longer than an hour to get back to 'full' speed)!
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Seriously considering the sideways mouse, you're the 2nd person to say they helped. They just seem so expensive though :'( on the bright side, I find computer use messes up my elbows way more than climbing does so who knows!
There are cheaper versions on amazon. Like this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-ergonomic-prevention-particularly-arm-friendly/dp/B016BBYRLY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-ergonomic-prevention-particularly-arm-friendly/dp/B016BBYRLY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8)
I'm sure they're not as good as the fancy expensive ones, but perhaps worth a punt at that price. I keep meaning to order one myself, but am holding out hope for the DSE assessment and getting one for free...
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It is amazing the advice you can get from other climbers. I had an elbow problem in the middle of the joint (palm facing up) in the insertion point of the forearm to the elbow joint (not really sure what the proper name of the injury is). I couldn't lock-off effectively or do undercuts and it became inflammed and sore after every climbing session. I tried various rehab exercises (some of which made it worse) for 3 months until Ru recommended doing eccentric reverse curls (palm facing out) at the Tor one day last autumn. The exercise reduced the pain in 2 weeks and now after doing it weekly and increasing the load my elbow is 95% better!
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Sounds very much like Tennis elbow not Golfers JohnM
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No it doesn't!
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It was neither golfers or tennis elbow so a bit off topic sorry. Just wanted to point out how good advice of some climbers can be and also how quickly debilitating tendon "injuries" can clear up with the right exercises.