UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Carliios on January 24, 2022, 11:51:21 am
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Compress Your Sins 6C+
Fun climbing into a desperate mantle
https://www.instagram.com/boulderswithcarlos/tv/CZE4XPahRmF/?utm_medium=copy_link
The Big Roof 6C
Climb the stepped face from under the roof
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZEPNGMhkSC/?utm_medium=copy_link
A Case of Mosstaken Identity 7A+
FA Matthew Wong
Right to left traverse on slopers
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CXwOTBVjXCa/?utm_medium=copy_link
Kate Moss
6C/+
An eliminate line sit starting the central bloc and only using the right hand pinch to pop for the top of the boulder. A 7A eliminate has been done using only the poor slopers to the left
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CYodUUSp44d/?utm_medium=copy_link
A Warm Cup of Hot Moss 5+
Mega lowball action on a tiny prow that has some man made incut crimps, just below the bulge boulder
Mosster Mash 6B+
Another lowball but this one packs some really interesting moves and body positions. Possibly harder for the tall who can’t fit inside it
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZHJtO-BRlx/?utm_medium=copy_link
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Ah cool, nice one. With these and the 7B seems like a decent little circuit, will check out soon!
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It felt like with the boss and Mossatrocity being the only couple lines there that people care about that it would be nice to have a circuit of boulders in that area, plus it’s a beautiful and quiet venue when the main crags are heaving
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Any of these actually at Tegness in case Mr Disorderly wants to repeat them??
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These look great! Where abouts are they in relation to the other bits of Yarncliffe? Also, did you have any issues parking right next to the gate? Sounds like there's been some nonsense in relation to how far the double-yellows painted there extend.
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Any of these actually at Tegness in case Mr Disorderly wants to repeat them??
Nope ;D
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These look great! Where abouts are they in relation to the other bits of Yarncliffe? Also, did you have any issues parking right next to the gate? Sounds like there's been some nonsense in relation to how far the double-yellows painted there extend.
If you park at the bus stop as to go to Mossatrocity, cross the road instead and go up into the forest all the boulders are scattered directly up and left on the trail amongs the tree and up where the quarried rock is
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Thanks for posting these up here Carlos. We had a short session yesterday on a couple of these yesterday: Mosster Mash and the Big Roof (right?). Really enjoyed both!
On the Big Roof I also did a left-hand version. From the same start as you on Instagram, but topping out by guppying the left arete. Felt like an independent line despite the same first move. There was chalk on the holds so I guess you might have done this version too?
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Thanks for posting these up here Carlos. We had a short session yesterday on a couple of these yesterday: Mosster Mash and the Big Roof (right?). Really enjoyed both!
On the Big Roof I also did a left-hand version. From the same start as you on Instagram, but topping out by guppying the left arete. Felt like an independent line despite the same first move. There was chalk on the holds so I guess you might have done this version too?
Aw thats great to hear Reeve! yeah the left line was done by my mate Elias at the same grade with a different name, forgot to add it to this, did you guys peep under the cave? it goes so far back, definitely something hard coming out of it.
Did you get a chance to check any of the other lines out?
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did you guys peep under the cave? it goes so far back, definitely something hard coming out of it.
Can't wait to see how Sam films that for the next Wedge vid. Go-pro on a pole? Film through a telescope? Make Jim film it himself, pausing every move to shuffle a tripod? Maybe they can flatten a path, lie down on a skateboard and slowly be dragged back out, keeping pace with the climbing?
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did you guys peep under the cave? it goes so far back, definitely something hard coming out of it.
Can't wait to see how Sam films that for the next Wedge vid. Go-pro on a pole? Film through a telescope? Make Jim film it himself, pausing every move to shuffle a tripod? Maybe they can flatten a path, lie down on a skateboard and slowly be dragged back out, keeping pace with the climbing?
I was thinking that, likely harder to film it than climb it ;D
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Aw thats great to hear Reeve! yeah the left line was done by my mate Elias at the same grade with a different name, forgot to add it to this, did you guys peep under the cave? it goes so far back, definitely something hard coming out of it.
Did you get a chance to check any of the other lines out?
The big roof ones and Mosster Mash were all we had time for. We did take a look at Triple X and Case of Mosstaken Identity too though which both looked really good. I'd be keen to return to try those :great:
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Good to see more new problems put up. Are these all 500m or so towards Grindleford from Yarncliffe main quarry?
I’m asking as I was under the impression the land was owned by National Trust who didn’t want any climbing there.
I understand you wanting people to go and climb your problems but if it is, would it bit be best to keep it more low key so people can go but not in hoards so NT don’t find out and kick up a fuss?
There’s a note about it on page 100 of the BMC Froggatt guide.
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Good to see more new problems put up. Are these all 500m or so towards Grindleford from Yarncliffe main quarry?
I’m asking as I was under the impression the land was owned by National Trust who didn’t want any climbing there.
I understand you wanting people to go and climb your problems but if it is, would it bit be best to keep it more low key so people can go but not in hoards so NT don’t find out and kick up a fuss?
There’s a note about it on page 100 of the BMC Froggatt guide.
Hey Stevie,
This is in the woods directly up from the bus stop in grindleford. I did read about something like that but it was in a thread from 2006 so wasn’t totally sure but I haven’t been told this is an issue even by Simon the crag mod who I’ve been speaking to recently. Either way, this isn’t going to see hordes of people anyways, from what I’ve seen it’s had a couple of people visit it here and there but doubt it’ll see a big influx of visitors anyways when you have burbage two seconds away.
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This is in the woods directly up from the bus stop in grindleford. I did read about something like that but it was in a thread from 2006 so wasn’t totally sure but I haven’t been told this is an issue even by Simon the crag mod who I’ve been speaking to recently. Either way, this isn’t going to see hordes of people anyways, from what I’ve seen it’s had a couple of people visit it here and there but doubt it’ll see a big influx of visitors anyways when you have burbage two seconds away.
I ended up wondering similar to Stevie when I went for a wander round these on Friday then checked the guidebook later on. Pretty sure it's the same bit where the NT don't want climbing. You're probably right that they won't end up getting hordes of people visiting. Seb Grieve put up a few routes round there 5ish years ago (not far from Arete About It, I think), but I doubt they drew any crowds either. The bigger issue, if the access is still sensitive, is that chalk on (I think) Kate Moss/Case of Mosstaken Identity is clearly visible from the road.
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This is in the woods directly up from the bus stop in grindleford. I did read about something like that but it was in a thread from 2006 so wasn’t totally sure but I haven’t been told this is an issue even by Simon the crag mod who I’ve been speaking to recently. Either way, this isn’t going to see hordes of people anyways, from what I’ve seen it’s had a couple of people visit it here and there but doubt it’ll see a big influx of visitors anyways when you have burbage two seconds away.
I ended up wondering similar to Stevie when I went for a wander round these on Friday then checked the guidebook later on. Pretty sure it's the same bit where the NT don't want climbing. You're probably right that they won't end up getting hordes of people visiting. Seb Grieve put up a few routes round there 5ish years ago (not far from Arete About It, I think), but I doubt they drew any crowds either. The bigger issue, if the access is still sensitive, is that chalk on (I think) Kate Moss/Case of Mosstaken Identity is clearly visible from the road.
I’ll head over this week with some water and a brush and clean the new lines down, it did look like it’s started to get quite visible so will sort that before it becomes an issue!
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This is in the woods directly up from the bus stop in grindleford. I did read about something like that but it was in a thread from 2006 so wasn’t totally sure but I haven’t been told this is an issue even by Simon the crag mod who I’ve been speaking to recently. Either way, this isn’t going to see hordes of people anyways, from what I’ve seen it’s had a couple of people visit it here and there but doubt it’ll see a big influx of visitors anyways when you have burbage two seconds away.
I ended up wondering similar to Stevie when I went for a wander round these on Friday then checked the guidebook later on. Pretty sure it's the same bit where the NT don't want climbing. You're probably right that they won't end up getting hordes of people visiting. Seb Grieve put up a few routes round there 5ish years ago (not far from Arete About It, I think), but I doubt they drew any crowds either. The bigger issue, if the access is still sensitive, is that chalk on (I think) Kate Moss/Case of Mosstaken Identity is clearly visible from the road.
I’ll head over this week with some water and a brush and clean the new lines down, it did look like it’s started to get quite visible so will sort that before it becomes an issue!
Tonights rain will have washed it off.
It's on access land, has a footpath running through it and is right next to an A road. I feel like a few low key bouldering visits aren't an issue. Maybe best not written up in a guide.
Went today. Was great. Hip Breaker and A case of mosstaken identity are great. Arete about it seems to have grown a massive foothold and is, sadly, a lot easier now.
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I don’t think it is on Access Land and the OS only shows a footpath running above the edge.
I don’t also don’t understand why proximity to an A road makes a difference either.
I was just trying to make people aware that historically (be that 1 or 10 years) climbers have been requested not to climb there.
Hopefully in reiterating this others won’t go cleaning every little bit of rock in what is classed as a Nature Reserve by the National Trust.
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Hopefully in reiterating this others won’t go cleaning every little bit of rock in what is classed as a Nature Reserve by the National Trust.
Realistically only a very small fraction of the mossy boulders hereabouts are suitable for climbing on, and the bulk of these are now already cleaned. It's a bit alarmist to talk about 'every little bit of rock' getting cleaned. I agree that too much publicity might draw negative attention, but that includes exaggerations of impacts like this.
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historically (be that 1 or 10 years) climbers have been requested not to climb there.
Every guide (to the trad routes) since the 1978 one has had a warning in capital letters saying that climbing’s not allowed and the “provided for information only” disclaimer.
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Interestingly, it's marked as access land on my OS Map but I just checked on bing maps and it is no longer marked as access land.
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(https://i.ibb.co/3zBrzNJ/Milky-Wood-X.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QdrbdN5)
So sorry I can't make the picture smaller, I've tried resizing, but it's just to show another gem of a boulder I unearthed in Yarncliffe wood last year - 'Under Milk Wood' that's got some good lower grade problems on it. The circuit is now looking really varied and full of decent lines across from f3 to f8B+
The latter is one of the hardest problems in the Peak and technically is on Yarncliffe Edge and it was interesting that when 'The Boss' was climbed there wasn't any rumblings about access issues, even when pads were being left in the cave overnight and for several days by teams descending on the area.
The place is certainly never going to be as popular as Stanage Plantation and so a handful of low key boulderers each season isn't going to damage the flora and fauna too much, plus from late Spring the ants and flying things come out anyway to keep the climbers at bay until late September. There are a few NT signposted footpaths through the woods and most of the boulders aren't that far from them.
There are some really nice problems on the circuit and if people are sensible and leave only footprints (and the odd bit of chalk) there probably won't be any issues with a few folk climbing there. Just a note about the Stags and Red Deer that are active in the area and have now made the woods and moors round Longshaw their home, I came face to face with a rather large and impressive chap the other day as we nodded our hello's
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Another couple of new additions I put up on my tour with Carlos. One decent, another shite.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6YfmzlTs4g
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/x4L61I9heUU