UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Fiend on July 21, 2021, 10:13:42 pm
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Discuss.
Cheers to Doylo for the catchphrase.
Bonus points if the value is something other than "muscular stress and therefore training" which surely could be done far better on a board/fingerboard rather than doing shit moves.
P.S. I don't really know as I don't do shit moves...
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If you approach climbing with the mindset of a Flamenco Dancer then there will never be any shit moves...
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Volume of easier shit mixed in with hard moves is the way. You get plenty of time in while also pushing yourself, but without overdoing it.
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Discuss.
Cheers to Doylo for the catchphrase.
Bonus points if the value is something other than "muscular stress and therefore training" which surely could be done far better on a board/fingerboard rather than doing shit moves.
P.S. I don't really know as I don't do shit moves...
Easy-but-shit moves may have a harder, but more elegant solution. Hard-but-shit might be the only feasible way, so it still takes skill, timing, strength etc.
Good example: Sufferance. Apparently there's a shit but potentially easier way across manky crimps, or a beautiful but slightly technically harder footwork way across the sloping rail.
. :-*
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I think it comes down to measurement and visualisation of what peak human performance looks like. No matter how shit the move is you can still appreciate the level of skill/strength needed to get to the point of being able to do it.
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If the first part of the statement wasn't true then limestone bouldering in the UK would not exist.
When eyeing up scratty caves in the Dales and wondering whether they could produce decent bouldering venues I always remember the old adage: limestone doesn't have to be good to be the next big thing, it just has to be hard.
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Lime boulders have plenty of good moves, just usually are shit lines with non-finishes
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Anyone got examples of what you consider particularly shit moves? Shit lines are a plenty but struggling to think of specific shit moves, excluding dynos of course!
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Anyone got examples of what you consider particularly shit moves?
I’m struggling with the concept of a“shit” move too. To quote Bolehillbilly “It’s all climbing and climbing’s better than virtually everything else”.
I guess things with painful holds (although some of us are into that), loose rock, perma-filth etc. would be in the category. I’d call a route or problem shit for being eliminate or very unbalanced in difficulty but I can’t ever recall thinking a single move that wasn’t afflicted with the above was shit. Certainly not an easy one. ;D
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All the moves that I can't do are shit moves, in my book.
It's how I protect the fragile little ego of mine.
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I suppose the final move of rock atrocity would get a few people's vote.
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I suppose the final move of rock atrocity would get a few people's vote.
Until you do it on the link, at which point it rapidly becomes an all time great.
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I suppose the final move of rock atrocity would get a few people's vote.
What, scumming your knee/thigh against the rock to give better purchase while moving your hand? That's most of the hard stuff in the cave (and in Barrows' career)!
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High rockover into precarious mantle top-outs on steep crimpy board style boulders are shit moves imo.
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P.S. I don't really know as I don't do shit moves...
"But Fiend, you don't do any hard moves either!!
FFS you lot. Is the heat addling your little brains??
P.S. Edge Problem at the Cromlech and Cenotaph Corner crux at the Cromlech are genuinely objectively irredeemably shit moves.
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P.S. Edge Problem at the Cromlech and Cenotaph Corner crux at the Cromlech are genuinely objectively irredeemably shit moves.
I really don't feel like my daily browse of ukb is complete without seeing you slag off the edge problem :lol: My mate hates it too, because he has fingers like shrek.
Any lip traverse where I have to throw my heel 2ft over the lip to heelhook the good hold way above my head is dead shit in my book, but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.
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bunched up moves are shit. However, a ginormous lank past the crux is glorious. I'm not biased at all.
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High rockover into precarious mantle top-outs on steep crimpy board style boulders are shit moves imo.
ooft, you've just described a 5 star finish to a 4 star climb. That's the stuff of dreams.
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actually I am going to adjust my answer to any move in a boulder which requires you to use your mates chalk because you forgot yours/ran out, only to find out he has that horrendous super ultra fine stuff which feels like flour and cakes onto your hands like goo :sick: :sick: what pervert likes that stuff
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One that springs to mind is the top section of Alpha at Anston Stones. The original method, which thankfully can be avoided, is to take an utterly God awful pocket with your left hand and lurch upwards with your right in a snatchy sort of manner. Usual practice once the top is reached is to then take 1-12 weeks off climbing to allow the injury you just picked up to heal.
It's only 7B though so depends on your definition of what's hard ;)
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It's only 7B though so depends on your definition of what's hard ;)
It's almost like "hard" is all relative so the original quote is complete nonsense ::)
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One that springs to mind is the top section of Alpha at Anston Stones. The original method, which thankfully can be avoided, is to take an utterly God awful pocket with your left hand and lurch upwards with your right in a snatchy sort of manner. Usual practice once the top is reached is to then take 1-12 weeks off climbing to allow the injury you just picked up to heal.
It's only 7B though so depends on your definition of what's hard ;)
There is a position, with a high left heel and low right foot, which allows all the movement to come from your legs and you barely have to pull on the pocket. The entire problem is still pretty log though imo :)
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Anyone got examples of what you consider particularly shit moves?
Relocating from Yorkshire to London?
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Anyone got examples of what you consider particularly shit moves?
Relocating from Yorkshire to London?
Does that class as a hard shit move, where say moving from Sheffield countryside to city centre is an easy shit move?
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but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.
I'm so relieved it's not just me.
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but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.
Word.
So many highly starred lip traverses in the N Wales guides!
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but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.
Word.
So many highly starred lip traverses in the N Wales guides!
A limestone lip traverse in a quarry in Doncaster is one of the best problems i've ever done! (midnight caller, earth quarry)
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Then I feel very sorry for you 😂
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Topsy Turvy at Apparent North the other day. Tiny, lip traverse, peters out to nothing, someone had done a crap under the roof. What do I win?
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High rockover into precarious mantle top-outs on steep crimpy board style boulders are shit moves imo.
Midnight Lighting?
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Topsy Turvy at Apparent North the other day. Tiny, lip traverse, peters out to nothing, someone had done a crap under the roof. What do I win?
Nothing, unless it was hard enough* to appease the elitist masses.
(The shit moves, not the shit itself)
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Nothing, unless it was hard enough* to appease the elitist masses.
(The shit moves, not the shit itself)
(https://i.imgur.com/FzilnET.jpg)
Damm, V6 max, no way that's gonna get any likes on insta.
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Shit moves:
Awkward match / hand swap
Multiple "go again" moves
Bunched sitters where arse off the floor is the crux
Anything with a finger jam
Anything with a knee bar
Anything at crag X
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but then again I think lip traverses are shit and unrewarding in general.
I'm so relieved it's not just me.
Agree, more lip disservice from here.
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I guess things with painful holds (although some of us are into that)
I find this very hard to believe. Is it not just that some people find themselves 'better' (lighter) than others on these moves and hence get some oneupmanship out of it? People don't really like painful holds do they?
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Shit moves:
Awkward match / hand swap
Multiple "go again" moves
Bunched sitters where arse off the floor is the crux
Anything with a finger jam
Anything with a knee bar
Anything at crag X
I think X has some brilliant moves and I've done some excellent moves off kneebars, wherever I lay my hat at Gallt yr Ogof has a well cool move off a knee and Texas hold em at trowbarrow the same.
Maybe replace 'anything' with 'most stuff'.
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Is it not just that some people find themselves 'better' (lighter) than others on these moves and hence get some oneupmanship out of it? People don't really like painful holds do they?
I mean, masochism is definitely “a thing” so there must be some people who get a thrill from using painful holds. :whip:
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Lip travs are often bland and kneebars often spoil boulder problems, but there are definitely lots of fantastic exceptions to both of those 'rules'.
Sit starts to walls, mono moves, moves on sharp holds, moves on loose/eroding rock, these all tend to be bad, but nothing is worse than the start move on Out of My Tree.
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Monos are ace (assuming they're ergonomic), you uncouth oaf.
Lip traverses are usually terrible but arbitrary sit starts just to get a bigger grade on walls / slabs are the absolute worst.
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Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?
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Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?
I was thinking that myself, at what point does a lip traverse become an arête?
Logically, I feel like 45 degrees would be the point, but like everything with climbing, you can't talk about absolutes because there are too many exceptions.
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Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?
I was thinking that myself, at what point does a lip traverse become an arête?
Logically, I feel like 45 degrees would be the point, but like everything with climbing, you can't talk about absolutes because there are too many exceptions.
In what world is L'Angle Parfait a lip traverse?! Or shit, for that matter.
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Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?
I was thinking that myself, at what point does a lip traverse become an arête?
I would say this happens at the point where you start pressing on the wall to generate opposition and move upwards rather than heel hooking and hanging to udge sideways. The former feels exciting and rewarding when done well and with suitable elegance and confidence, the latter always feels rubbish even after the 5th time you have done this identical move on that problem. Extra :shit: points if your hands are lower than your feet and the crux is keeping your heel from slipping off.
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So Knight Rider is shit?
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Just thought of another one, possibly the shittest of all moves - a dynamic move from a deep pocket, you have to quickly pull out fingers from pocket, finger gets bent backwards if you don't do it right. Happened to me twice in last ten years and makes me wince thinking about it. Should come with strong health warning.
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Unless it's part of getting your #first8A insta-tick in which case it's the most valuable and justifiable move ever ::) ::) ::)
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Cocoa team special. Such a disappointment.
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Aren't all aretes just steep lip traverses?
Not only that, but plenty of lip traverses climb as if they were prows.
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I love lip shuffles, but only when the only holds are on the lip amd you dont have to eliminate holds further back. The classic one on the keel boulder was a favourite lip bum shuffle when I first bouldered round there :wub:
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Any moves where the difficulty is not hitting the ground.
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When not dabbing on an awkwardly positioned boulder, floor, tree is the crux.