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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: duncan on July 18, 2021, 05:50:56 pm

Title: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: duncan on July 18, 2021, 05:50:56 pm
Scorchio!

M - Mowingword with The Writer. Late start due to a rainy morning. Much of the cliff was still wet but we did The Curver, The Seal and Nijinski (VS-E1).
T - Mowingword. Charenton Crack was dripping but did Logos, Go Slo, Mental Block, Razorís Edge, and The Teetotalers (all E1-E2). Backed-off Second Initiation (E1) due to a potential ledge fall. Stayed on the east side due to the scorching weather and had the crag to ourselves; a glorious day.
W - Mother Careyís. Warmed-up on The Meridian. The Writer backed off Rock Idol due to wetness and we escaped via Mother Careyís Eliminate into The Strait Gate (the first pitch of SG was wet), a good combination at about E2. Nothing left in the tank so headed home.
T - Battered. 7km walk.
F - Benchmarking. Both arms on a 20mm edge: 116% of bodyweight. Pull-up on a bar: 126%.
S - Shoulder stuff (lock-offs; hand stands). 10km walk.
S - Thought briefly about doing an early morning auto-belay session but it was already too hot at 8am. Fingerboard max. hangs. Weighted pull-ups.


Nearly two years since my last trip to Pembroke, how did that happen?! Constrained a little by heat, seepage, and the army but still had an excellent time. I had struggled to enjoy my previous two visits (a difficult period generally) and had wondered if the place had become a bit over-familiar so it was great to feel so positive about it once more. Seeing it through the eyes of an enthusiastic newcomer to the area probably helped.

Some route fitness is returning but I still run out of gas quickly. Plan: continue to work long endurance (or just do lots of trad. climbing).

Finger strength dropped through the floor after covid but is now back up to where it was two years ago. Plan: maintain strength with a session of try-hard (bouldering, RPing or fingerboard) every week.

In the last week, two people independently remarked I have lost muscle bulk. Another post-Covid effect? Plan: keep plugging away at the strength and conditioning. Eat properly.

Aims: try something harder than E2 and 7a+.

Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: yetix on July 18, 2021, 06:44:21 pm
M rest
T am: fb, front 2 and mid 2 half crimp pick ups 4x5s each, 5x5s hammer super nation. Pm: tor, Ben's, managed to fall off the 2nd to last move twice. Surprisingly good cons at the end of the eve.
W rest
T griffs, managed to get all the moves of Lovine dialed in the end. Last go of the day linked into Ovine, but couldn't find the fight to finish it by that point. Psyched.
F
S am: fb, front 2 and mid 2 half crimp pick ups 4x5s each, 5x5s hammer super nation. Pm: Jerry's roof, repeated a few things, spent about 90 mins on the huffys Variation move just about slipping as I caught the hold a bunch of times.
S quick campusing session, managed 147 a few times right side and was just off left side, tried a few other things on the campus board then rested and did a couple of PE problems on the 30 board which were more tension focused as I'm all arms at the ends of longer problems it seems and need to work on that.
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: andy popp on July 18, 2021, 07:04:37 pm
Bah humbug! Got super excited on seeing the title, seemed like a great new initiative. Might actually start cooking club (though perhaps not this week, as nothing particularly interesting transpired).
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Fiend on July 18, 2021, 07:08:55 pm
Bah humbug! Go ahead and post your cooking reports anyway.

I made a very agreeable campsite one pot dinner the other night. Broccoli, slivers of cooked chicken, "teryaki-style" rice pack (whatever it's bloody camp cooking not a Falling Down gastroclass), salt, garlic, chilli, loads of fresh reduced price chives and coriander, and nearly half a lemon squeezed in. Simultaneously stodgy yet light and delicious.
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: RobK on July 18, 2021, 08:03:57 pm
Sounds great, Duncan. I had major Pembroke blues this week, not sure if it makes it better or worse reading about others being there!

M - Lunch: max hangs at +26kg. Failure on the last half of reps, about normal when moving up to a new weight. Evening: 25 minute run in the rain.

T - Evening: power hour on the board. Didnít feel like a total sack of potatoes, hints of some form returning?

W - Lunch: half a max hangs session at +26kg. Failure on the last rep. Evening: LPT, back to Mussel Beach after a much needed couple of months off. Horrid conditions so just the one RP but managed to match my previous high point of getting both hands on the pillar. Iíll take that. Tried to have a go at Night Glue afterwards but couldnít even get through the steep section, felt like someone had poured a bucket of water on the holds! Humidity wasnít too bad but there was absolutely no wind, lethal just walking around as the beach never dried out.

T - Lunch: half a Crimpd 50% AeroPow repeater session at -15kg. Meant to be a full session but ran out of time. Medium pump level. Evening: Dinbren, in a three so only managed to tie in twice but such a glorious place to spend a summer evening. One top rope and then one poor RP attempt of I Punched Judy First 7b+. Good line, should go when I next manage to get back.

F - Rest. Lunch: low intensity 10/50 hangs.

S - Llanddulas after bailing from a very soggy Gorge. Warmed up on Pearl From A Shell and then set about looking at Nanabozho, the 8a that links Mudjikeewis into Wirral Whip. Boils down to a short boulder problem, maybe in the 7B-7C range? I find it next to impossible to tell the boulder grade of anything when on a rope. Had one brief look at this last year and couldn't work out the last part to get to the tufa of WW. Managed to do all the moves this time with some beta from my mate and some small links. Not bad when the crimps were feeling pretty sweaty in the heat. Finished with an RP attempt of Mudjikeewis 7b+, didn't really know what I was doing but put up a good fight. Came off one move from the jug rail near the top. Annoyingly when I was going to the chains afterwards my knee locked really painfully when doing a high rockover. A bit tender on the walk out but slowly getting better today (Sunday).

S - Evening: Crimpd 50% AeroPow repeater session at -15kg. Medium pump. Also bought a giant paddling pool, ace purchase.

Not a bad week. Feel like I'm getting out quite a bit but always to different crags so don't seem to be putting in a sustained effort on anything in particular. As a result the season's ticklist is looking a little thin on the ground!
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Bradders on July 18, 2021, 08:04:18 pm
Best recipe this week was cod fillets with cajun seasoning, oven baked and served with a sweetcorn, tomato, spinach and avocado salad seasoned with chilli flakes, lime juice and a little olive oil. Muy bueno.

Anyway....

M - back to Chee Dale Cornice for redemption. Polar opposite day compared to Saturday; chucking it down, humid, sweaty, still, horrible. Thankfully my climbing was also the opposite of my previous session. Felt good. Having failed on it in a full session on Saturday, did Whose Line is it Anyway first go as first route of the day. Steady away. Had a good flash go on Big Zipper but hadn't rested long enough after doing Whose Line and powered out in the middle of the hard bit. Did it next go after a good rest, felt very comfortable. Next had another good flash go on Martial Music but pumped out having been unable to find a sequence for the final little bulge, just one hard move away from success. Again, did it next go comfortably. Great day, first time I've done 3 7s in a day.

Tu - rest

W - late evening did a short FB session, only 4 10s hangs at anything approaching max at +35kg on my 26mm edge. Then 45 mins on the board including some warm ups and then some mediums which felt good, tension felt decent.

Th - Kilnsey. Warm up lap on Allakazam. Then session #2 on Subculture. First go up bolt to bolt. Wasn't really warmed up but did all the moves comfortably. Also sorted better beta for the last hard sequence dropping into a crimp, then going up to an undercut. Felt very repeatable. Next go dropped the third hard move going to the big break at the second bolt. Rested for a bit there and then managed to link all the way to the top! Well psyched with that. Unfortunately it took a fair amount out of me and on third go the breeze had disappeared so conditions felt bad. Dropped the third hard move again but at least then worked it and sorted a better method, then linked from the second bolt to the rest. Rested on the rope as was gassed (only just made the move off the undercut!), then linked to the top and stripped it.

F - AM 5km run, bit slower than last week as it was already warm at 7am

Sa - WCJ Cornice trying to hide from the sun. Still baking hot. Minor epic getting there as I obeyed the "bridge closed" signs and ended up wading across the river, via a weir, which was at least refreshing. First route annoyingly dropped the last move of A Major Moment on the flash, due to a foot pop, so had to settle for second go. Not a great warm up being so cruxy. Was keen for Brachiation Dance but there was a queue so went on Disillusioned Glue Machine as partner was on it. Did all the moves bar the last two which felt very hard in the heat. Decided not to have another go. Crowds cleared from BD so went up bolt to bolt and did all the sequences comfortably. Had one redpoint and dropped it at the 3rd move from the top, I.e. having clipped the lower off but not got to the finishing jug. Bit of a weird situation. Too tired for another go, shame didn't get on it earlier but it'll go next time.

Su - rest

Great week. Enjoying getting out, and psyched with progress on the rope. Could have had three 7a-7b flashes if I'd had a tiny bit more luck but nevermind. All good mileage.
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Duma on July 18, 2021, 09:57:43 pm
M - nothing, 12hr shift
T - had day off but knackered from work over the weekend. frustrating.
W - am TCA, offset pull ups to ease the L elbow which has been tweaky. Then assisted max OAHs. Just had a band so no numbers. Good rest then tried some blacks (hard set) managed a couple, prob low font 7's. Eve back to TCA for circuits - waste of time, limited by skin rather than energy.
T - partner for planned eve sesh bailed, bit annoyed but tbh was busted from prev day. Did a bit of very easy circuit vol as recovery  at UCR in pm.
F - Brean. Hotter than the sun obviously, but wasn't there for hard RPs. Warm up repeating a couple of things on the left, then worked out moves on Milky Bar Kid (8a). This links the cruxes of Prisoner of Conscience, Bullworker, and El Chocco. Done all these before, but it involves a couple of new tricky moves from PoC to the good kneebar on BW, and then a few more droppable bits from BW into EC with no rest. Did all the new moves ok, and pleased to reclimb the three cruxes pretty much straight off, but no real links, and will be waiting for some less brutal temps before going back. Still, something else to try when its too hot for Brean Toppping. Then 12hr nightshift.
S - nothing, 12hr nightshift.
S - nothing, 12hr nightshift.
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: shark on July 18, 2021, 10:13:09 pm
11.4-7 average 160.0 up 0.1lbs

M. AM Dentist to replace crown. It fell out again an hour later. Set of recruitment and speed pulls. PM Tor. Pissing down. Humid. Poor conditions but at least itís only training. Worked on the crux section of Bens. Linked from holding pocket and crimp to tickling pinch on the cross through twice - 2.75 out of the 4 hard moves. Burnt out quickly. Eve. Some pull throughs on the bachar ladder and a max hangs session

T.

W. AM Set of recruitment and speed pulls. PM Crax X. 20 degrees but a slight breeze and low humidity so not bad conditions. Tried JR but struggled. Best go holding the rail and going up to to intermediate with left. Tried start of Moffatrocity but struggled and couldnít get through first couple of moves. Quit whilst I was behind. Bit of a contrast to my only other day here this year when I rinsed JR after a Bens Roof session - though it was 9 degrees then.

T.

F. Tor with Karl. At crag for 7.20am. 15 degrees, low humidity and a bit of a breeze so better than expected to begin with. Tin Of with rests to warm up. Back on Cross NíAngry. Abbed into Crucifixion headwall. Glued hold was fine. Worked on the crux which felt a lot easier then before - tried linking from bottom of the Crucifixion headwall but pumped out at the end of the crux then came down. Next go jugged to Prow hole. Already significantly hotter. Felt tired and struggled on the AM headwall moves so dogged to Crucifixion crux and had a productive dog coming away with a better way of doing the crux that is quite different from when I did the route 9 years ago probably because Iím stronger but holds may have altered too - itís not the most solid of routes.

S.

S. Midday. Few pulls on bachar ladder. Managed a single double off right and close a couple of times off left.

Set back on weight front after a boozy curry in Nottingham on Friday night. Weather maybe hotter but at least itís not so humid. Nice to be briefly reminded what decent conditions felt like on first tie in on weds. Keeping my hand in by turning up, tying in and trying hard.

Early doors at Tor tomorrow then LPT Weds and Friday
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Dolly on July 18, 2021, 11:51:09 pm
I was so excited then let down to discover this wasnít actually about food
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Coops_13 on July 19, 2021, 12:14:03 am
M: Density pickups. LH up to 35lb, RH up to 40lb. Psyched!

T: DBC. TA HC started -30lb then added 5lb each time up to +30lb. Was only aiming for BW but v psyched to add 30lb. Did 7 M-, 3 M after.

W: Density pickups. LH, RH up to 40lb. Psyched to get LH back to normal density pickup weight!

T: DBC. TA HC up to +40lb! Did 5 M-, 8 M, 1 M+ after. Weighted pull-ups +45lb X5 *3sets. Seems like finger is fine while climbing

S: Lower Chaos, RMNP. Showing some mates round. First time on rock since weird pinky injury. Warmed up then retroflashed Autobot V5, v psyched. Went over to Tommy's Arete and put down the right exit V6 fairly quickly. Went to Deep Puddle boulder and spent ages working out the moves on Deep Puddle Arete V5 (nails). Went for the send but finger started feeling sore so called it. Great day out
https://youtu.be/TA1yL5jEPGo

S: Hike to Lower Crystal Lake (12kft). 5 miles, 1600ft ascent
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Nibile on July 19, 2021, 10:03:54 am

Power Club
Mon - tired. Snatch pulls x5, snatch x5, overhead carry 30" 40 kg, TBDL x5 farmer's 1' 80 kg, all x5.
Tue - rest
Wed - 40' EMOM 50 kg clean x5, bentover row wide grip x5, high pulls x5, pull ups x5 all x10. Yes.
Thu - tired. Bar work new routine (pull up, front lever pull, pull up into front lever) x2 x10. High pulls x5 30 kg in between.
Fri - rope, boxing bag.
Sat - weights, boxing bag.
Sun - very tired. EMOM 30' 90 kg snatch grip DL x2, DL x2 x15 each alternated.
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Will Hunt on July 19, 2021, 01:26:15 pm
Some long rambles in this post about the joy of climbing up waterfalls in limestone gills. It could just as easily go in YYFY. I apologise for the sheer joy contained within. I will say 10 Hail Maries and do a max hangs session to repent.

T - Stony Bank. Thought it could be midge hell but the wind was being funneled down the valley. Result! Did Candy's Case, Oedipus, Burlesque, and another easy. Had a go on Laius and dropped the crux which is quite hard. Lowered off and tried again. This time I could pull back on and figure out how to do the move but, alas, too late to RP.

F - nobody wanted to play and it was filthy hot so went exploring some gills. First up was Step Gill which I couldn't find any info about, but with a name like that and with waterfalls marked on the map it was bound to provide some fun. A fairly long run in of damp ramps and falls led to a tricky looking pitch (https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=370544). I had a rope with me but it looked like a tight fit past the fallen tree so I dropped off the bag and resolved not to climb anything I couldn't reverse. Fortunately plenty of holds materialised and all the moss was gripmoss not slipmoss. This deposited me in what appeared to be a completely enclosed amphitheatre. A two tiered waterfall at the back proved easier than the last. This led to more easy ground with some nice ducks under ancient looking packhorse bridges. On reaching the moor I headed back down and moved onto Crystal Beck.
Crystal Beck has a short approach and doesn't last very long. Things start with a slippy, wide bridging section to obtain a big open-topped chamber, at the back of which is a fearsome looking chute. I'd read the comments that you just had to believe there would be holds and get going, so I did, and to my great delight as I groped and smeared on the gripmoss I found that there were indeed a series of delightful holds leading up the right-hand side of the chute. It was so good I immediately went back round to do it all again. Along with President's Slab it's probably the best pitch of VD in Yorkshire.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRZrCe8jV--/?utm_medium=copy_link

Back down to Litton for a pint as swifts screamed through the fields. Heaven.

Su - had to babysit csl as he was visiting from that London. Went to Gordale and found it very busy so decamped to Crook Gill which csl seemed to really enjoy. It is just so so good. We then moved onto Bouther Gill which had previously repelled gill enthusiast John Hunt, who attempted it one January. A long run in led to a big fall which looked fairly fierce and blank (https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe5iW9DtEH/?utm_medium=copy_link). I headed up, past enormous great cooking pots of water, to the steep headwall. There, in the middle of the wall, was an enormous juggy flake. I thumped it, I tugged it, and finally hung from it before committing to the face. The holds kept appearing and the gripmoss held true. Reaching the top, care was still required not to slide down the final short ramp leading to the horizontal. We shortly came upon another large, stepped fall (https://www.instagram.com/p/CRedElmjcUR/?utm_medium=copy_link). Not so steep but seemingly blank. At close quarters some small finger holds appeared and the obstacle could be overcome. From there, things leveled out into an open cave system with the most immaculate rock. At the back of this an easy chimney led us to the moor and the end of our journey of discovery. Back down, and off to a pub for grub and pint. Belter.
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: JohnM on July 19, 2021, 01:50:41 pm
M - Bike ride along the river 30km

T - Hamstring strengthening + stretching

W - AM: 5km jog. PM: Was meant to be going climbing but it was continuously raining and there had been a couple of landslides in the destination valley so we called it. Partner suggested indoors but after a year away from the climbing gym the idea still leaves me feeling cold so I declined.

T - Shoulder stability + core. Finger boarding - assisted one arm hangs on Lattice rung.

F -  Drove to Samedan in Switzerland.

S - Engadin Ultra Trail 102km + 5700m elevation gain. A great day out on the trails despite being the first trail race I have done where things didn't go well for me. My ambitious goal was to finish before sunset after starting at 6am which would have been a time of 15h30m. However, my legs didn't feel good from the very beginning and I was already struggling after 20km. Despite this my target time was still in play after 80km with a strong finish. Unfortunately the strong finish was replaced with me puking a lot at 90km and then a final 10km from hell, walking, jogging, puking and dragging myself into the finish in the dark after 16h48m in 30th place!

S - Driving back + eating etc
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Wellsy on July 19, 2021, 02:20:56 pm
Monday: Bouldering session, felt very weak and like skin was very poor so went for a tactical back-off and did weighted pull-ups, 5 sets of 5 with 16kgs added.

Tuesday: Rest day, but went for a short run as was feeling restless.

Wednesday: Back to the works for a good session, close to three hours. Felt strong and light, but largely went for volume and then added in some hard stuff. Identified a training need for dynamic moves to small holds which I will work on. Benched 5x5 at 65kgs, then did weighted pull-ups at 5x5 with 18kgs added weight. Felt like I'm still solidly within my limit on that which is cool, my goal is to get to 5x5 with 30kgs added weight which would be a real step up for me.

Thursday: Rest day.

Friday: Just went to the works and did the entire new pinkle circuit. Piss easy obviously, but good to just go and get volume in.

Saturday: Anston Stones. Warmed up on a 6A and a 6B that I'd done before, then blitzed another 6B and a 6B+, so started work on a 7A+ called Apprentice Prow. Did the sitting crux move repeatedly and fluffed the top a few times due to shit sequence. Think I worked out the beta by the end and was basically stopped by skin. Feeling EXTREMELY FUCKING PSYCHED as I reckon that I am within 1-2 sessions of doing my first 7A+. Was subsequently knackered as realistically went a bit beyond when I should have stopped, but yes. Felt amazing.

Sunday: Rest day, was very tired.

General feeling: Very positive. Trip to Anston this evening for another go on the Prow, would be really chuffed if I could get it done, or at least make progress. My year's objective of a 7A on grit and limestone has been half done (on grit) and if I could do a 7A+ I would feel like I've exceeded. Psyche is strong!
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Fiend on July 19, 2021, 08:21:56 pm
Quote
(https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe5iW9DtEH/?utm_medium=copy_link)


 :2thumbsup:

Top work......Gill Hunt. Best use of the recent weather.
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: csl on July 19, 2021, 08:52:04 pm
Su - had to babysit csl as he was visiting from that London. Went to Gordale and found it very busy so decamped to Crook Gill which csl seemed to really enjoy. It is just so so good.

I wasn't faking it either, can confirm for any sceptics out there that it's a great use of a hot day!
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Wellsy on July 20, 2021, 09:03:26 am
Monday: Bouldering session, felt very weak and like skin was very poor so went for a tactical back-off and did weighted pull-ups, 5 sets of 5 with 16kgs added.

Tuesday: Rest day, but went for a short run as was feeling restless.

Wednesday: Back to the works for a good session, close to three hours. Felt strong and light, but largely went for volume and then added in some hard stuff. Identified a training need for dynamic moves to small holds which I will work on. Benched 5x5 at 65kgs, then did weighted pull-ups at 5x5 with 18kgs added weight. Felt like I'm still solidly within my limit on that which is cool, my goal is to get to 5x5 with 30kgs added weight which would be a real step up for me.

Thursday: Rest day.

Friday: Just went to the works and did the entire new pinkle circuit. Piss easy obviously, but good to just go and get volume in.

Saturday: Anston Stones. Warmed up on a 6A and a 6B that I'd done before, then blitzed another 6B and a 6B+, so started work on a 7A+ called Apprentice Prow. Did the sitting crux move repeatedly and fluffed the top a few times due to shit sequence. Think I worked out the beta by the end and was basically stopped by skin. Feeling EXTREMELY FUCKING PSYCHED as I reckon that I am within 1-2 sessions of doing my first 7A+. Was subsequently knackered as realistically went a bit beyond when I should have stopped, but yes. Felt amazing.

Sunday: Rest day, was very tired.

General feeling: Very positive. Trip to Anston this evening for another go on the Prow, would be really chuffed if I could get it done, or at least make progress. My year's objective of a 7A on grit and limestone has been half done (on grit) and if I could do a 7A+ I would feel like I've exceeded. Psyche is strong!

Only went and fucking did Apprentice Prow 7A+ last night, and also did The Wookie 7A+ in the same session too. Fucking get in.
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Duma on July 20, 2021, 08:00:12 pm
Nice one Wellsy! Sounds like there's plenty more to come.
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Wellsy on July 20, 2021, 09:16:46 pm
Nice one Wellsy! Sounds like there's plenty more to come.

Absolutely there is. Psyche is high and neither problem felt like my physical limit. I'm going to smash the training and then come grit season get some real time in out in the peak. Good times!
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Bradders on July 21, 2021, 06:32:08 am
Monday: Bouldering session, felt very weak and like skin was very poor so went for a tactical back-off and did weighted pull-ups, 5 sets of 5 with 16kgs added.

Tuesday: Rest day, but went for a short run as was feeling restless.

Wednesday: Back to the works for a good session, close to three hours. Felt strong and light, but largely went for volume and then added in some hard stuff. Identified a training need for dynamic moves to small holds which I will work on. Benched 5x5 at 65kgs, then did weighted pull-ups at 5x5 with 18kgs added weight. Felt like I'm still solidly within my limit on that which is cool, my goal is to get to 5x5 with 30kgs added weight which would be a real step up for me.

Thursday: Rest day.

Friday: Just went to the works and did the entire new pinkle circuit. Piss easy obviously, but good to just go and get volume in.

Saturday: Anston Stones. Warmed up on a 6A and a 6B that I'd done before, then blitzed another 6B and a 6B+, so started work on a 7A+ called Apprentice Prow. Did the sitting crux move repeatedly and fluffed the top a few times due to shit sequence. Think I worked out the beta by the end and was basically stopped by skin. Feeling EXTREMELY FUCKING PSYCHED as I reckon that I am within 1-2 sessions of doing my first 7A+. Was subsequently knackered as realistically went a bit beyond when I should have stopped, but yes. Felt amazing.

Sunday: Rest day, was very tired.

General feeling: Very positive. Trip to Anston this evening for another go on the Prow, would be really chuffed if I could get it done, or at least make progress. My year's objective of a 7A on grit and limestone has been half done (on grit) and if I could do a 7A+ I would feel like I've exceeded. Psyche is strong!

Only went and fucking did Apprentice Prow 7A+ last night, and also did The Wookie 7A+ in the same session too. Fucking get in.

Nice to see some proper climbing psych on this climbing forum for a change  :lol: good work  :weakbench:
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: ali k on July 21, 2021, 07:32:47 am
Feeling EXTREMELY FUCKING PSYCHED as I reckon that I am within 1-2 sessions of doing my first 7A+. Felt amazing.
General feeling: Very positive. Psyche is strong!
Nice to see some proper climbing psych on this climbing forum for a change  :lol: good work  :weakbench:

Aint it just. Wish I could regain some of that!
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: cheque on July 21, 2021, 10:28:12 am
Nice to see some proper climbing psych on this climbing forum for a change  :lol: good work  :weakbench:

 :agree:
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on July 28, 2021, 11:26:20 am
Shite! Thought I'd posted this but must have switched off the PC... Doh!

From memory...

M: Nowt
T: Fingerboard Sesh
W: Sheaf bloc - hard!
T: Nowt
F: Easy routes @ The Cuttings after 6hr drive!
S: Easy DWS then stung by a million baby jellyfish when swimming AM | Routes @ The Cuttings PM (when shade hit) - Got spanked by an F7B in the heat...
S: Too hot to move AM - Routes @ Cuttings PM - Still too hot really, got spanked by a bloody F6c+! Camped on the island... Was lovely!

Hot... Really fucking hot!
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Duma on July 28, 2021, 11:51:10 am
you sure you've got the right week DD? this is the 12th-18th

Anyway OT, where did you camp on portland?
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on July 28, 2021, 12:07:47 pm
you sure you've got the right week DD? this is the 12th-18th

Anyway OT, where did you camp on portland?

Yea I missed last week... Just updated this week.

Stayed right on the Bill, there's a little field with a few portaloos on the road in that let you stay for £10 a night, there's also a pub that let vans stop for the same price (although I think the field might actually be £15 Fri/Sat so maybe a better bet at the weekend)... We just rocked up Sunday and it was cool... Meant that we could head to the Blacknor cliffs early doors Monday, we have a mate in Dorchester where we stayed the rest of the time but, even with just a 30-minute drive, still struggled to get up and out early enough for a decent sesh before the sun hit... Would usually just wild camp if staying for a single night in other places but have heard that Portland locals haven't been happy with the proliferation of this recently so a tenner seemed pretty reasonable....
Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: duncan on July 30, 2021, 09:22:35 am
Would usually just wild camp if staying for a single night in other places but have heard that Portland locals haven't been happy with the proliferation of this recently so a tenner seemed pretty reasonable....

Thanks. There has been some covidanxiety, a boom in visitor numbers, but also some shitty behaviour from van-dwelling climbers. The Cheyne Weares car park was blocked off for some time because of overnighters crapping in the quarry.

Title: Re: Cooking Club 592 12th -18th July 2021
Post by: Wood FT on July 30, 2021, 09:26:44 am
Would usually just wild camp if staying for a single night in other places but have heard that Portland locals haven't been happy with the proliferation of this recently so a tenner seemed pretty reasonable....

Thanks. There has been some covidanxiety, a boom in visitor numbers, but also some shitty behaviour from van-dwelling climbers. The Cheyne Weares car park was blocked off for some time because of overnighters crapping in the quarry.

Really frustrating behaviour. There's a public toilet up the road.
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