UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: scragrock on June 25, 2021, 02:31:02 pm
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Finally edging toward the latter stages of the Strathnairn Bouldering guide{ Hopefully published in early 22 } and i am looking for recommendations from those who have climbed in the Glen.
What are your favourite problems of any grade in the Strath?
Alongside the usual descriptions and Topo's I'm looking to give a quick hit guide of the best for 10 different locations.
Thanks
Rob
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I don't think I know enough of the area to give a top 5, but I do know it's bloody great, one of my favourite bouldering areas in Scotland for variety (and accessibility, and relatively benign climate!), But....
Razor's Edge, Ruthven
Great rock line and climbing, as good as The Dude and waaay better than The Slippery fucking Slope
Brin Done Before, Brin
An obvious choice, irresistible in both spectacle and setting.
Forever Unfulfilled, Farr
Or indeed anything on this boulder for the ace rock quality, but this one is pretty nice and elegant.
:2thumbsup:
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Cheers Fiend
Yeah both Brin done before and Forever Unfulfilled are both in, HaHa im less sold on Razor's edge but your argument has weight and i agree it does stand up.....And it is without doubt the only true 7a at Ruthven :worms:
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I actually like the Slippery Slope, remember enjoying the movement.
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Ooh, you've got me thinking. I've not climbed much in Strathnairn in the last few years so don't know the newer venues. Not been to Rooftown and only once to Barry Valley so my top 5 would be from the older venues:
Brin: Brin Done Before, what Fiend said.
Also at Brin: The Scientist. Great line, great moves.
Farr: Right Arete. The obvious line of the boulder and such good rock. Never thought the sit start added any difficulty but it does prolong the joy.
Duntelchaig: The Dagger. Quintessential scottish bouldering - bit of an effort to find and slightly dodgy landing but brilliant climbing.
Ruthven: Big Lebowski. The original and best and such an obvious feature to climb.
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I actually like the Slippery Slope, remember enjoying the movement.
I still climb it as part of my Ruthven circuit so it certainly don't dislike it as much as Fiend but it is easily outshined by a good few other problems at Ruthven.
Any others you would like to see in from the Strath Chris?
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Ooh, you've got me thinking. I've not climbed much in Strathnairn in the last few years so don't know the newer venues. Not been to Rooftown and only once to Barry Valley so my top 5 would be from the older venues:
Brin: Brin Done Before, what Fiend said.
Also at Brin: The Scientist. Great line, great moves.
Farr: Right Arete. The obvious line of the boulder and such good rock. Never thought the sit start added any difficulty but it does prolong the joy.
Duntelchaig: The Dagger. Quintessential scottish bouldering - bit of an effort to find and slightly dodgy landing but brilliant climbing.
Ruthven: Big Lebowski. The original and best and such an obvious feature to climb.
Yup both Brin done and the Scientist are in.
Good shout for Farr, Right arete.
Yup Dagger is going in too{and hopefully a better Map/directions}
Yup Definitely Lebowski.
Thanks Gaz
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Slippery Slope is an awful thuggy grovel that only gets misplaced stars to sandbag people on.
Right Arete at Farr would also get my vote aye.
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Slippery Slope is an awful thuggy grovel that only gets misplaced stars to sandbag people on.
Right Arete at Farr would also get my vote aye.
Mmmm interesting, I don't find it that thuggy but i use very different beta to most folk. I do find Sloping off to be a far superior problem.
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Agree with Fiend about S S but happy to accept I'm probably not using best beta.
At Ruthven , Outstanding is always fun ditto Spank the Ramp at Brin.
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Hi Rob, I agree with all the above (or at least the ones I can do!)
For Ruthven Id have Razors Edge and Slippery Slope in. Presume youve got some of the other classics already (Barry Manilow, Cheeky Girls)? Sylvester and Rock n Roll Baby are pretty good.
You cant really go wrong at Farr, though Id agree Right Arete and Forever Unfulfilled are the standouts. I thought Excitement in the Boys was great too.
Brin have you got Hit Me (good from a stand, even better from a sit) and Spirited?
Ive still not done that much at Barry Valley but remember Glorika and Glory Crack being really good at the grade.
Duntelchaig is having a bit of a renaissance at the moment! Some of the new stuff over the top might be worth keeping an eye on as it develops.
How about some unsung gems?
Ruthven: Dirty Salt Licks Old School crimping on the smallest of small edges.
Brin: Scorpion Great moves, inexplicably neglected. Gold Dust? (if you train on a board this will probably feel very easy for the grade
)
Duntelchaig: Voodoo Working
and if you train on a board it will do you no good whatsoever on this. Baffling rockover onto a slab. Quite unlike anything else - really technical, really good. 3 UKC logs in 15 years!
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Hi Rob, I agree with all the above (or at least the ones I can do!)
For Ruthven Id have Razors Edge and Slippery Slope in. Presume youve got some of the other classics already (Barry Manilow, Cheeky Girls)? Sylvester and Rock n Roll Baby are pretty good.
You cant really go wrong at Farr, though Id agree Right Arete and Forever Unfulfilled are the standouts. I thought Excitement in the Boys was great too.
Brin have you got Hit Me (good from a stand, even better from a sit) and Spirited?
Ive still not done that much at Barry Valley but remember Glorika and Glory Crack being really good at the grade.
Duntelchaig is having a bit of a renaissance at the moment! Some of the new stuff over the top might be worth keeping an eye on as it develops.
How about some unsung gems?
Ruthven: Dirty Salt Licks Old School crimping on the smallest of small edges.
Brin: Scorpion Great moves, inexplicably neglected. Gold Dust? (if you train on a board this will probably feel very easy for the grade
)
Duntelchaig: Voodoo Working
and if you train on a board it will do you no good whatsoever on this. Baffling rockover onto a slab. Quite unlike anything else - really technical, really good. 3 UKC logs in 15 years!
Hey Ian, Thanks for the feed back.
Yeah so it looks like this so far-
Kelpie
The Selkie
1 horse town
Farr
Far side facet
Forever Unfulfilled
Barry Valley
Barry Span Commander
Hissing SID
Butch n Sundance
Crack n Scrape
Glory Crack
Brin
Brin Done Before
Fire and Brinstone
Pitt Bull?
Susurrus
Spank the Ramp?
The Scientist
Sharmoth
Hit me
Dunlichity
6
Dunlickingme
Marla
Duntelchaig
The settler
The Dagger
Eriophorum angustifolium
Pinguicula vulgaris
Mutprobe
Voodoo working
Dreamcatcher
Ruthven
Cheeky girls
Builders butt
Barry
The Dude
Lebowski
Bitch slap
QED
Rock n Roll
Rooftown
Heavens gate
Was that a wolf
Donnie Murdo
Neg Prog
Money for nothin
Texas hold em
Blackjack
Kansas city shuffle
Crazy Horse
* i am in the process of adding or subtracting from each area depending on Votes.
* i think doing a Hidden Gem list is a great idea, Both your suggestions would go in
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Any others you would like to see in from the Strath Chris?
I've only been to Ruthven a couple of times and Brin once (after Belladrum when I was too hungover to do much and it was all a bit damp). Tended to do routes if going out that way.
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Any others you would like to see in from the Strath Chris?
I've only been to Ruthven a couple of times and Brin once (after Belladrum when I was too hungover to do much and it was all a bit damp). Tended to do routes if going out that way.
No Probs Chris
Cheers anyway :2thumbsup:
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That was back in the day mind.
Keen to come back and have a look at the new stuff, you guys have been doing some good. Kids are keen now too.
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That was back in the day mind.
Keen to come back and have a look at the new stuff, you guys have been doing some good. Kids are keen now too.
So a good session for you and the kids might be this-
https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/461459306
Big split bloc and the paw at Barry Valley, Within 2 mins of the road with good landings and a good grade range ;D
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/barry_valley-23882
Give me a shout if your popping over and i can show you about if im free.
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Nice one, will do.
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Hey Rob, sounds a nice idea for your guide. Wondered if useful to use surveymonkey or similar to vote? Shortlist of the Strathnairn '3 star' probs and rate by what folk enjoyed most? Could be pinged around the community and theoretically get a big spectrum of opinion across the grade spectrum. I guess UKC already does it to a certain extent.. The other tricky aspect I'm sure you've considered is that there are quite a few problems that haven't had 2/3/4 ascents. For example, of the 5 or so I've added in the last 18 months I think only a couple have been repeated. Suspect many of yours and Stu's will be similar? Keen to try that high one you did this Spring.. I'm hoping I'l get round to visiting Barry Valley and Rooftown in Sep anyway. Cheers, Pete