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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Fiend on May 20, 2021, 06:55:32 pm

Title: Logic behind finger massaging / stretching??
Post by: Fiend on May 20, 2021, 06:55:32 pm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMXW-Gs5KnI

Akiyo (which looks kinda funny without her emotionless warrior face on) demonstrating finger care in the context of 20 years of top-end climbing without finger injury (  :o ). But I'd like to know the reasoning behind the various techniques used....  is it flexibility? Reducing scarring? Increased blood flow? Preventing inflammation?

Title: Re: Logic behind finger massaging / stretching??
Post by: tomtom on May 20, 2021, 08:27:32 pm

Be interested If there were a proper science answer - but for me n=1 etc - it helps ease up achy fingers.

I use one of those £2 eBay fork shape jobbies.

Title: Re: Logic behind finger massaging / stretching??
Post by: webbo on May 20, 2021, 09:02:19 pm

When discussing massage guns didn’t Duncan? say there was no evidence to say massage did anything other than a short term nice feeling.

Title: Re: Logic behind finger massaging / stretching??
Post by: jwi on May 20, 2021, 09:05:15 pm

When I have not played the piano in a while I have to do what Noguchi prescribe in the video, otherwise the fingers are not bendy enough for wide chords. Otherwise I don't bother.