UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: SamT on April 25, 2021, 07:00:31 pm

Title: [Peak][Lawrencefield][Spik and Span][E1 5b]
Post by: SamT on April 25, 2021, 07:00:31 pm

Improbable as it sounds, I climbed what appears to be a new line at Lawrencefield yesterday.  Must have been climbed before, but not claimed.  I can't seem to find anything written up anywhere.

Anyhow, takes a lovely little clean and sharp arete directly below The Gordons, The Gordons and makes  a good first pitch to that route.

https://youtu.be/TBUPwEcolcs

Sorry for the extended bivvy on the ledge half way through, didn't think I was stood there for that long!  :-[

Also cleaned and climbed 'The Gordons, The Gordons' above a few days before, which is brilliant I think.  A proper hidden gem, though its not so hidden really.   I've always thought it looked like a great line.   

Always thought it was a bit of an odd name, but happened across this early 80s post punk album and I'm pretty sure now where Johnny go the  route name from..https://gordons.bandcamp.com/album/the-gordons-future-shock

Title: Re: [Peak][Lawrencefield][Spik and Span][E1 5b]
Post by: andy popp on April 25, 2021, 07:15:03 pm

Looks tough for E1!

Quote from: SamT on April 25, 2021, 07:00:31 pm

Always thought it was a bit of an odd name

Pretty certain it's a pun on "The Bells, The Bells."

Title: Re: [Peak][Lawrencefield][Spik and Span][E1 5b]
Post by: SamT on April 25, 2021, 07:36:09 pm

Yeah - that's what I thought, but The Bells The Bells was climbed in 1980,  Pollits ascent was 86 I think and Gordons the Gordons was 85.  So not exactly current. 

Will ask Johnny if I see him about. 

I just saw that the album was called, The Gordons - The Gordons and the image looks totally like the arete.  Exact same angle, everything.  I can just imagine Johnny seeing this in someone's record collection in a doss house in Hunters bar and seeing the resemblance.

Title: Re: [Peak][Lawrencefield][Spik and Span][E1 5b]
Post by: andy popp on April 25, 2021, 07:48:33 pm

You might well be right. But ...

Quote from: SamT on April 25, 2021, 07:36:09 pm

So not exactly current. 

You have to remember Johnny and John's relationship. Bit of needling would be totally expected.

Title: Re: [Peak][Lawrencefield][Spik and Span][E1 5b]
Post by: SamT on April 25, 2021, 08:08:25 pm

Ah yeah - I suppose. Either way, great little micro route that seems to pack a load of climbing into a short space.

Title: Re: [Peak][Lawrencefield][Spik and Span][E1 5b]
Post by: SamT on April 25, 2021, 11:01:17 pm

Quote from: andy popp on April 25, 2021, 07:15:03 pm

Looks tough for E1!

Forgot to say, its protectable with some wires lower down, and the upper section with a micro cam (green totem) in a funky two finger pocket.

(And JD just confirmed that it was indeed a pun on The Bells).