UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on March 07, 2021, 11:29:51 am
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11.6-11.10 Average 162.0 (-1.2lbs)
M. AM Set of recruitment pulls. Tor with Matthew. Misty, cold, still, air a bit damp. Put draws in Tin Of then redpointed it 3x. That’s more like it. 4th attempt greased off the crux.
T.
W. AM set of recruitment pulls
PM. Tor with Matthew. Cold and damp. Put draws in Tin Of. Checked out Call of Nature. Holds too damp to pull on. Tried to redpoint Tin Of but greased off the crux. Called it a day. Worst day’s climbing at the Tor I can remember
T. AM set of recruitment pulls then Tor with No Drama Anna. Cold but air not so damp as Wednesday and rock drier. Joined Anna on Ring of Fire. Desperate. Had 3 goes on it. Split a tip on 3rd go. Anna redpointed it. No fuss, made it look easy, standard. By contrast I spent the whole session flailing and whinging. Also rammed home how inflexible I am. And old. And useless.
F.
S. AM Set of recruitment and speed pulls PM Systems board. Felt much fresher than previous Saturday. Gastons sequence. Completed old An Cap circuit with slightly harder version of throw move (going off good incut edge). New AnCap routine laddering up and down the incut edges timing 3 secs a move using crap screw on footholds leading into the throw move as above. Completed a set of 4 with 4 mins rest between each go. Second set managed it twice and came off on third attempt tickling pinch. Significant improvement - didn’t manage it once last week. Planned to do more in evening but wiped when I got home
S
A week which felt like I was starting on the bottom rung again. Obviously focussing on Bens has made me specialist so always likely that transitioning to other stuff was going to be painful. Even though it makes me feel further away from the Oak it should take me closer to it. The fingery climbing on Ring of Fire should be reasonable prep for the first 7 moves of the Oak so will have a few more sessions on it. Shame one of the holds is a cutter and there’s no undercuts.
Stopped drinking and watched food more closely this week and dropped 3.2 lbs by end of week so good start to hit target of 6lb off for month.
Had 2 weeks off Bens so will ease back into it. Hope to up the volume of training this week if body is willing
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Not the most productive week due to a sore elbow and shredded hand from missing the pads falling off gritty shaker late last week. It has enforced a bit of a de-load though which will probably be useful long term.
M - flexibility/mobility routine
T - flexibility/mobility routine
W - easy pullups, pressups, etc.
T - max hangs, felt poorly recruited and was down a bit on last week
F - Red baron roof with lamps. I've tried to get on this several times over the past couple of months and have been unfortunate to find it wet each time. I tried pulling on a year ago and couldn't hold the moves after getting the lip when my feet left the block. I can hang this fairly easily now, which was a pretty good indication that a year of training has served me well. Spent an hour or so working out the best beta and once I realised there's a big toe hook under the roof had a few decent attempts from the bottom, with my high point being dropping it getting the high right foot on the corner before matching the arete. Eventually more tape than bare skin meant not enough friction, and feeling significantly powered out by this point I decided to leave it for another day, but was happy with the progress and feeling fairly confident it could go in the next session - though I expect a few heartbreakers matching the arete!
S - felt battered
S - flexibility/mobility routine. Spent some time thinking about a new boulder to project. Something inspiring, and hard which will take multiple sessions, but still be feasible (e.g. within 10 sessions) and reasonably accessible for lamping after work. Prime suspects are currently:
Jason's roof at Crookrise. Could not be more my style, but an hours drive (from Morley) and the walk in is not ideal.
Ill gotten gains at Eastby. Bendy heelhooks, slopers and shouldery gaston might suit, but again - drive and walk in.
Chebal at Gorple. Supposedly a couple grades easier than claimed, which would need to be true or i'd have no chance. Similar length drive to the above, similar ish walk in I think. Take 8A+ for it on my Instagram if sent :thumbsup: (not serious).
Heaven in Your Hands at Brandrith - Slightly shorter drive and walk in (I think). Good candidate
Chiasmata or jess' roof - I'm a bit bored of the cliff at the moment, so fails on inspiration and no lamping.
Like a Hurricane at Chevin - shortest drive, not heard much about it but the photos look good.
Ben's groove sit - maybe. Often wet.
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Well I'd strike the Cliff ones off your list for lamping for a start...
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Well I'd strike the Cliff ones off your list for lamping for a start...
Chiasmata or jess' roof - I'm a bit bored of the cliff at the moment, so fails on inspiration and no lamping.
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Liam, most of these seem to be in the 7C+ or harder range. HIYH looks ace, and I haven't done it, but I understand it to be closer to 7B+ than the 7C+ it seems to get on UKC. As such I expect you'd bang it out in considerably less than 10 sessions! Don't know whether that affects your search process... Might also be one you want a spot on for the top?
Like A Hurricane gets good write ups and won't result in you nailing yourself from height. Also been done loads lately so will be well cleaned.
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Great list Liam, certainly some things I fancy at some point in the future.
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Liam, most of these seem to be in the 7C+ or harder range. HIYH looks ace, and I haven't done it, but I understand it to be closer to 7B+ than the 7C+ it seems to get on UKC. As such I expect you'd bang it out in considerably less than 10 sessions! Don't know whether that affects your search process... Might also be one you want a spot on for the top?
Like A Hurricane gets good write ups and won't result in you nailing yourself from height. Also been done loads lately so will be well cleaned.
Thanks for the beta and thanks for the vote of confidence; however, I'm a technical toddler, so if I can't just squeeze my way through it I expect it will feel much harder than the equivalent graded fridge hug!
Sorry all if these juicy boulder propositions have derailed the thread!
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Liam main thing with that list is if you think they might take you a while you need to get on them soon if you want a chance this season...connies clock is ticking!
If it helps, Ill Gotten Gains is literally roadside. And beware downgrades of Chabal; 8A is probably fair for people of a normal height.
And irrespective of whether you're bored of the Cliff Chiasmata is easily the best hard problem there and Jess' Roof would be a 5* banger if only it didn't climb out of a toilet.
HIYH looks ace, and I haven't done it, but I understand it to be closer to 7B+ than the 7C+ it seems to get on UKC.
7C is fair for it I think. Easier for the tall. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3ATrollface_non-free.png)
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Heaven In also a big no no for lamping, we found the game keeper waiting for us at our cars a few years ago, and they were very clear about their thoughts on the subject!
Shorter (and flatter) walk in than either Crooky or Gorple.
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M - am 14 min fb session. Few more hours DIY to finally finish off this project. Was planning a run but feeling pretty knackered from yesterday so postponed.
T - am 14 min fb session. Made the last few 3 finger drags harder and also the two finger drags. All the half crimps still nails though. Lunch 5k run, flat, pavement. Very pissed off to discover my timer fucked up somehow so no idea of time, pushed hard but it def wasn't 13:32 like phone claimed. Eve assisted OAPs, excellent session, warmed up playing on the board with daughter, then down to -2.5kg on L, -6kg on R. R again limited by elbow twinge, but went back to -7kg and did reps there while finding the limit on my L and it seemed happy. Psyched with new PB on L.
W - am 14 min fb session. Made a bosun's chair to hopefully make belaying on Was it You? more civilised. Pm plan was board but knackered so just 14 min fb session, felt hard, went back to easier version. Not sure twice a day is doable.
T - am 14 min fb session, felt hard, easier version again. Def going to stick to max once a day in future. Eve board 90 min, decent session, started out feeling very good but faded quicker than previously.
F - Rock, Avon Gorge, Was It You? 7c+. Bit of a faff with the ab in but fantastic route. First go up on a TR got all moves and felt good, went for hopeful lead go next but terrible - fingers had got too cold belaying, ran out of beans early, and generally climbed like a bag of spanners. Not unexpected really with so little recent time on a rope, and it's a fairly exciting position for a sport route! No more time for further attempts, but I was busted by then anyway. Can't wait to get back.
S - am 14 min fb session, went back to harder version - felt okish. Afternoon walking and cycling, watching others climb at sea walls. Forgot lunch.
S - Rock, Avon Gorge, bouldering at sea walls. Did all the stuff right of the Prince, couple of nice problems including 2 7A's so decent work out. Was a bunch of pads so had a couple of goes at the Prince rockover intending to boulder it out up the RH sequence, but couldn't manage the rockover before skin stopped play. Forgot lunch again. Eve exhausted, must eat more.
69.5 kg (69 sun morning)
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M – AM, LI 10/20 hangs. PM, 45 minute run, 30 minutes stretching and LI 30/30 hangs.
T – Max hangs at +26kg, all complete and felt reasonable too. Happy with the continued progress of these. Then another board session of coming very close to finishing off projects. 30 minutes stretching in the evening.
W – Was a little low on psyche/inspiration but it was a certain birthday of mine so: 29 start jumps, 29 pull ups, 10 sec hang at +29kg, 10 pull ups at +29kg, 29 press ups, 29 TRX Ts, 29 leg raises, 29 laps of my board warm up, 29 crunches, 29 wide pull ups, 29 minutes stretching. The board laps was the hard one, took a lot longer than I had envisaged!
T – Crimpd 80% repeaters at +12kg, still felt like I had a little left in the tank too. 10 x 5 wide pull ups to finish. 30 minutes stretching in the evening.
F – TRX session consisting of Ts, rows and supermans. LI 30/30 hangs to finish.
S – Max hangs as a pre-crag warm up. 3 reps at +27kg, failure on the final rep. Then headed off to Nesscliffe for a rematch with Little Northumberland. Made really good progress with the crux crimp feeling much better in the shade. Very nearly linked the crux move from the start, feels close! The sun came out though and my left hand got tired so had a play on Kyloe In 7A+. Got very close but I was flagging and it involved yet another hard pull on a left hand crimp so didn’t push it. Lots to go back for.
S – Rest. Except most of the day was spent laying new flooring in the hallway which always leaves me feeling battered. LI 10/20 hangs in the evening followed by 30 minutes stretching.
Decent week with two more fingerboard PBs, going to keep going with the same protocols until things stagnate. Also introduced a lot of evening stretching after feeling very stiff and creaky on rock last weekend. Realised that I have had no indoor wall sessions to keep any sort of mobility going and am already feeling much better after this week, will try to keep it up as many days this month as I can. Surprisingly psyched by boulder sessions at Nesscliffe, hoping to get back for a lamp session early this week before the forecast rain hits.
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W/C 1/3/21
M - Abs/core, pull-ups and shoulders,
T - Abs, pulls, wrists, density hangs, pinches and small edges
W - Abs/core, isometric holds, yoga and stretching, max pulls
T - Isometric TRX,shoulders, abs, yoga and stretching, repeaters
F - Abs/core, TRX compression, large hold repeaters
S - Abs, yoga, stretching
S - Repeat
Just a week of ticking away until I can play out again.
M - 5 minute plank. 3x30 second hollow bodies. Three sets of front levers and 60 abs roll outs.
Continue with 3x30 seconds L-sits at 90° locks. And follow this with 3x3 pull-ups for speed. Some shoulder work for strength and mobility.
Lots of hamstring stretches and yoga and some upper body stuff.
Max hangs for 10 sets of 10 seconds with 3 kilo assistance . Trying to maintain longer duration holds than of late.
T - Start with 3x3 minute planks, floor routine and 80 roll outs.
OAP work for 5 sets. RH with weight added up to 5k and LH at bodyweight. Then 3 sets of 5 typewriter pull ups on left side with pause to failure on last rep of each set. Barbell strengthening work for wrist flexors and extensors.
Yoga for hip flexibility, which feels great. Followed up with middle splits stretching.
Density hangs for six sets on 15mm edge and get to 45 seconds on all but the last set, where I fail at 38 and curse myself for not digging a fraction deeper.
Pinches later on for 6 sets of 6 seconds with 24k with the square block, 6x6 seconds with 16 on the flared block and 3x untimed sets with 16 on Lattice pinch, which feel around 10-15 seconds each set. Finish with some pulls on 6 mm edge with 24k weight for untimed holds, again feels like quite a long time, low intensity at that weight.
W - Plank, 5x15 second front levers, 3x band supported back levers, 3x10 up and over leg raises. Finish off with some playing around with parallettes and press to L-sit stuff.
3x 30 second locks at full, 90° and 120° with 10k vest. 3x20 dips in vest. Compression isometrics for 3x20 seconds in vest.
Yoga for shoulders and upper body stretches.
6x5 second Max Pulls with block and Tindeq.
Some additional stretching in the evening.
T - Start with isometric prone TRX T holds for 5x30 seconds, follow it with reverse YTIs for 3x5 each. 3x10 of shoulder combo.
3x3 minute planks, 100 roll outs, parallettes press to L-sit for 3x5 and abs floor routine.
Yoga for back, stretching for middle splits, which is coming on slowly.
Set of repeaters, steady through all the grips and close to a set on the 6mm edges.
F - Plank, 3x front levers, back levers, leg raise up and overs, 100 roll outs.
3x5 TRX prone Ts with vest and raised feet, 3x5 Y into I into press, 3x8 reverse Ws, 3x8 weighted wall slides, 5x10 pull-ups and press ups, just switching between the two.
Large hold repeaters for 4 sets of 7/3 for 5 minutes per set. Could have carried on this week.
Yoga for feet, hands and twists and upper body stretches.
S - 25 hard ab roll outs, yoga for abs and stretching for splits.
S - Easy roll outs for 50, yoga for climbers, upper body stretching.
Tick, tock.
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it was a certain birthday of mine so: 29 start jumps, 29 pull ups, 10 sec hang at +29kg, 10 pull ups at +29kg, 29 press ups, 29 TRX Ts, 29 leg raises, 29 laps of my board warm up, 29 crunches, 29 wide pull ups, 29 minutes stretching. The board laps was the hard one, took a lot longer than I had envisaged!
Happy Birthday! Like the themed session!
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From Morley what about the steep stuff at Woodhouse unless you have done these already? Ian's roof and Houdini are right next to each other have literally no walk in and lamping shouldn't be a problem.
Also you could venture into Lancashire... Cows Mouth roof several new problems that have been added recently and is only a flat 10 minute walk. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682/permalink/2915098238735605/
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March goals
- Tick a 7 at either Shoreditch or Mabley Green. Doing a 7B would be a bonus. - Granite style bouldering (compression, slopey holds, bad feet) seems to be something I'm not very good at, not had much success so far. Good to work a weakness and all that.
- 20x stretching or mobility. 3/20
- Stick to the plan, don't miss any sessions. Ok so far, slight hiccup today after knackering myself with DIY.
Monday
1.5 hours at Shoreditch Park. Did a couple of easy problems and then tried a 7A+ called Ex Machina. I felt like I was going to go through my tips on my rh so gave up on this after not many attempts. Moved onto a 7A called Unfathomable, nice moves on this. Fell off penultimate move on my second go, and then proceeded to fall off the same spot 5 or 6 more times. Had to leave to get back for work.
5x 5minutes aerocap on the board, with feet on the floor. I must look like a right freak to the neighbours.
Tuesday
Mobility/Stretching
Wednesday
10mm edge hangs, lacklustre session on the board in the rain. Movement drills: staying open. Wide grip pullups 5x5.
Mobility/Stretching
Thursday
Rest
Friday
New NW Bouldering guide arrived!
Flashes on the board. 5x5 assisted 1 armers.
Saturday
DIY. A big day plaster boarding a ceiling
Sunday
2 Arm Max hangs up to 112kg half crimp and 90ish on 3FD.
Boulder Doubles - meant to do ten sets, but called it a day after 7 as feeling very tired from too much DIY yesterday.
Stretching/lying around tired.
Going to head back to Shoreditch Park this week and try to finish off the problems I tried on Monday now my skin is feeling a bit more robust. Brimming with psyche about the possibility of going climbing in a few weeks.
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Cow's Mouth 20 minute walk and extremely exposed so bear that in mind.
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... it was a certain birthday of mine so: 29 start jumps, 29 pull ups, 10 sec hang at +29kg, 10 pull ups at +29kg, 29 press ups, 29 TRX Ts, 29 leg raises, 29 laps of my board warm up, 29 crunches, 29 wide pull ups, 29 minutes stretching. The board laps was the hard one, took a lot longer than I had envisaged!
Keep that up until you're 60 and I'll be impressed!
Was It You?
Good to see this, described in different guidebooks as "inscrutable" and "an enigma", now getting regular attention. Whatever the mystery behind the first ascent the line looks magnificent.
M - 8km walk. Shoulder strength stuff.
T - 10km walk. Shoulder strength stuff. Fingerboarding micro. session (15mm edge, both hands, 40kg total load).
W - 3km shuffle. Shoulder strength stuff. Fingerboarding micro. session
T - 10km walk. Squats. Single leg squats (to 110 degrees, not back to the full SLS yet). Shoulder strength stuff.
F - Fairlop. Cold, grey and damp. Feeling particularly creaky. Spent a long time attempting to warm up, including a jog round the lake, but couldn’t seem to raise my temperature. Tried climbing and everything felt glassy and I felt weak. Slipped off the big roof a couple of times, landed awkwardly once and caught myself the other time at the cost of wrenching an elbow.
S - Battered: back and elbow sore. Walked 12km.
S - Elbow sore but back better so shuffled 3km, walked 10km, and did some squats.
Not the greatest of weeks. Feeling old, fat and unfit. Missing climbing on real rock and the hunt for North London’s answer to the Broomgrove Wall is not proving fruitful. Come on weather, come on lockdown, get your acts together!
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Cow's Mouth 20 minute walk and extremely exposed so bear that in mind.
I did chuckle when I read 10 min :) If there is a cross wind its murder on your back. Think I've considered tacking on that walk in before :D
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Mon: 1 arm sloper hangs. Down to -11kg (hard) and then a load of reps at that.
Tues: Board. Average session. Clunky feet. Did some good crimp stuff though...
Weds: One arm PU day. Slightly tweaky shoulder. Went down to -11kg and did 8 or 9 repeats. Decent, but hard work.
Thurs: Board. 30 min. Then some one arm max hangs. New records of -13kg on the 15mm BM crimp.
Friday: Rest day. Covid Jab (AZ) in the morning. Started feeling shivery and achy about 4pm and went downhill after that. Bad night - up most of the night with really bad headache - alternating ibuprofen and paracetamol doses.
Sat: Awake most/all of the morning - dazed watched a film, then all of the cricket. Finally felt kind of normal about 4pm. Quick recovery there after. Wife very generously did all the childcare.
Sun: Fine - but shattered (crap sleep still). Returned childcare favor.
Jab completely worth it - when you have it factor in you may feel shit for the next day (I had).
From a training perspective, I probably needed to take a few days off. I've been on 4 days on 1 off for the last 9 weeks and I may take tomorrow off as well - or just do some TRX stuff every other day for a week, then get back on it. Feel like I'm climbing well and all the numbers are going in the right direction (not backwards!!) so time to recover then back to another block perhaps (isnt that what other people do?).
One hand max hangs are interesting - was 4kg better (both hands) on the crimp this week. But, I can feel it niggling my deupetrens nodules... these are both on my little finger tendons I think - so considering 3 finger half crimps, not sure.
Also, on slopers, my RH is 1-2kg worse than my left - and on the half crimp its the other way around! Ha!
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Mon - Hour up on the moor and did some F3s in boots. Home did warmup (minus pressups), then leg stretch.
Tu- Leg stretch session.
We- Calf. Mizzle blowing round but it was dry. Repeated an easy (non eliminate) version of classic calf, pretty chuffed! Did almost pleasant. Tried traverse, but pads were getting wet and it felt a bit shonky so sacked it off. Home for dumbell OH press and bench press.
Thu- Nowt
Fri- Quick Ilkley trip. -Ba't'at traverse' (6C), which I worked out the beta for last week and ticked quickly this time. Big psyche! Almost went home, but was too nice, so cleaned up the easy traverse on the pebble dash side of the calf and did that. Was entertaining and felt hard for a F4! Then got on the calf traverse and did it first go of the session. Full confession, I didn't rock over onto the slab at the end as it is filthy, and started from the jug on the face, not the jams. Pretty psyched and taking the tick (no shame!). After a brief lie down I managed to work out and tick the 7A crack traverse from the arete to car park crack. The finish of carpark crack was nails, and it was the first time I had actually done the top! Did a victory lap of CP crack to see if it felt easier after. It didn't. Home for tea and medals.
Sat - nowt
Sun -Nowt
Good week. Arms still don't feel right post jab, but happy with the reduced volume for now, will try and slowly build back up. Ilkley ticks were great, I think the difference was partly doing the things before it got dark and connies were slightly better! Hoping to repeat the traverse again in the next few weeks, it is a great work out!
Weekend was DIY based, but Probes built me a 45 in the garage on Saturday (thanks!) :dance1:. Sorting out the lighting and putting the final holds on in the evenings this week, then I can start getting strong. Psyched off my chops.
Next stop 7C!
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Great Friday dunnyg!
Also, on slopers, my RH is 1-2kg worse than my left - and on the half crimp its the other way around! Ha!
I have similar, OAPs my L is ~3kg better, but on OAHs my R is ~2kg better.
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Tu - realised I had a clear lunchtime till a 2pm meeting. Headed out to Ruin Bank in the mist to take a chance on a thing I spotted and tried briefly in 2018, and figured out in January before having a lamplight scrubbing session to clean the top out. It was dry! Got it done and was very very psyched. Not sure why. I thought it was a belter, but then it does mean something to me. Hopefully someone repeats it - downgrades welcome! Viddy here with uncut, undignified, uncontrollable YYFY audio.
https://youtu.be/ivFwIbFe8_8
F - another lunchtime sesh on Pete and Will's newly described lovelies at the Glen.
Su - AM at Gritty Shaker. Skin and connies weren't up to it and I ended up taping up pretty early, but not before I progressed to the move taking the high guppy. Good to get proof of concept even if it's next season before it's wise to have another session. Moved to Ruin Bank Woods and did some beautiful climbs at the Folly. A steep finger crack that's been cleaned, a highball rib to the left of Addio Arete, a crimpy wall etc. Very nourishing.
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There's been some good beta in here. Project scoping summary so far:
jason's roof: I'm too lazy to drag 3 pads up the hill on a night
HIYH: I don't want to get shot (definitely on my list for weekend visits with spotters though)
chabal: too hard
bens groove: too wet/technical
cliff: too dark
woodhouse: too eliminate
cows mouth roof: never seen this before. Looks ok, but not the most inspiring lines.
I think the front runners are like a hurricane and ill gotten gains (maybe too hard). Keen to try Will's new problem above too.
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You'll rinse it, Liam. Not a huge amount of tech to it but a shoe with a good heel is important. Couldn't get it to stick in my Miuras.
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There's been some good beta in here. Project scoping summary so far:
I've never tried it, but Frank, at Ilkley, looks quite squeezy.
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Was It You?
Good to see this, described in different guidebooks as "inscrutable" and "an enigma", now getting regular attention. Whatever the mystery behind the first ascent the line looks magnificent.
I thought Bristol Unillustrated was a fantastic little route in a similarly exposed position, and it was always effectively a sport route. That was a long time ago and it's probably in a state of disrepair, but it would be well worth resurrecting.
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Happy Birthday! Like the themed session!
Thanks :)
Keep that up until you're 60 and I'll be impressed!
Yeah I'd be happy with that!
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Cheers Andy, good tip!
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woodhouse: too eliminate
Got to stick up for The Scar here. If you can get past the litter (take a rubbish bag and gloves to clear it up!), it's a genuinely great venue with some really classic problems, and Ian's Roof is both excellent and hard, giving quite rare properly sustained climbing. Let down only slightly by the landing at the end.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCLiRTqj90P/?igshid=1bqrybohtxywh
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M - Trail run 9.5km 327m.
T - Trail run + hill sets x 2 15.7km 777m.
W - Shoulder stability + core (0.5 units), slopers and pockets (0.5 units), assisted one arms hangs (-8kg x 5), max. 2 arm hangs + 30kg (1 unit).
T - NG PE session 4 sets (1 unit). Trail run 9.64km 307m.
F - Travelling pull ups, sling assisted one arms pull ups (5 x 2 each arm), pulley assisted one armers (5 x 1 each arm -9kg) (1 unit), repeaters (0.5 units), weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100, 15kg x 100, 20kg x 80) (0.5 units). Trail run + hill sets x 3 16.83km 983m.
S - NG PE session 4 sets (1 unit).
S - Schleierwasserfall - I selfishly convinced my climbing partner to go to Schleier (even though it wouldn't be the best or warmest place to go overall) as I wanted to get back on my 8c project as early as possible in the year. The crag is also dangerous to approach, leave or change sectors at this time of year and huge 'bombs' of ice, rock, mud and ice javelins were falling off the top throughout the day. Climbers are no more immune to being hit by one of these than anyone else but at least we are aware of it. I couldn't believe the amount of families with kids hanging around in the fall zone and just gazing upwards with their phones out taking pictures. After more consistent training this winter I had high expectations for my first go back on the route. It went terribly! I struggled to do the moves, got the fear on the airy run outs on dusty holds and had a hard time fighting to get the crappy in situ draws out of the bolts and replace them with my own. The second go was much better and I felt way stronger on the moves than the year before and even pretty chilled on sequences I would have been fighting and scraping my way through 6 months ago. I also found some new beta on the long boulder at the top which made me realise how bad/hard my sequence was before and how easy it is to get stuck into using the same whack sequence! I didn't really put many big links together though and the rock was interacting with parts of fingers that haven't been touched all winter and ripping chunks of skin out. Two goes was enough for this reintroduction session. I finished by trying an 8a but got shut down by an extremely bicep intensive undercut match in the top boulder. Got home feeling broken all over!
A good week but I need to find some balance in my training volume and load. Fact 1 - If I want to climb 8c (again) with my baseline ability I have to train a lot and at intensities that walk the line of strength gains and injury. Fact 2 - I won't climb 8c again if I am injured! I ended up over training the week before trying to fit all my planned units in and even though I rested two days at the beginning of this week I still felt the effects throughout the week. I decided to train the day before getting on the 8c and combined with the training on the Friday I think this compromised the session. Therefore, I think I will rest the day before next time. I need to rejig this week's training as the rotator cuff on my right arm has become agitated so I will cut out most of the pull ups and one arm stuff and just do some mobility training and BW two arm stuff. W.r.t the running, thinking towards my plan to do the Bob Graham round in June and then the Eiger Ultra in July, I tried to ramp up the running and elevation this week. However, the tendon in my right knee did not like this so I also need to adjust my running training or at least actually do all the boring hamstring exercises I need to do to address the quad/hamstring imbalance that is upsetting my knee tendon. F'ing injuries!
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John, random question but how hard is a Bob Graham/ Eiger Ultra if we try and do an extremely rough and ready translation across to climbing grades? eg is a Bob Graham the running equivalent of 8b or something? To me it might as well be 9c as I think my legs would snap but interested how keen runners see it as a goal.
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eg is a Bob Graham the running equivalent of 8b or something?
If you're 'just' after the sub 24 round, probably closer to 8a/+ I would say. The limiting factor for a decent fell runner is probably the logistics and committing to doing it, so maybe a trad grade is more appropriate?!
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John, random question but how hard is a Bob Graham/ Eiger Ultra if we try and do an extremely rough and ready translation across to climbing grades? eg is a Bob Graham the running equivalent of 8b or something?
Ha ha, good question! I don't really know to be honest. It also depends on the time it takes you. Lots of people could finish the Bob Graham in under 24 hours (so maybe just to finish is 8a or something) but if you were to finish in 12 hours 52 minutes like Kilian Jornet or 14 hours 34 minutes like Beth Pascall then that would equate to more like 9b/+ and 9a receptively maybe. I guess running is too different to compare. Based on effort, I haven't put in as much effort into running as climbing 8c so my best running efforts probably feel around the 8b mark. Also, injuries aside, I personally feel it is much easier to put the training into running and then go and execute a good personal time (within a certain range) than in climbing where you can train and still fail for multiple seasons to redpoint a certain route!
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Not done it but 40 miles p week / 3000m of vert training for months leading up has been quoted + the recceing (so maybe training 7 -10hrs training pw on similar terrain for a punter).
It’s not running either for most ppl, covering that terrain at that speed is closer to hill walking / mountaineering than running. You could be a sub 2:40 marathoner and not get anywhere near it. I know mountaineers who’ve done the BG off the couch.
A fast sub 17-hr time might be F8b?
Our club had a presentation from George Foster recently who ran the second fastest BG last October in 13:44 and he reckoned there were 10 or so Brits who could beat that. So maybe not quite 9b. He also said it’s basically a trail all the way so you can’t compare it with times from back in the early 80s.
Alpine ultras are totally different with most of them on well made, albeit often rocky, trails.
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I know people who have done the BG 24 without being incredibly fit (one said he walked quite a bit of it), but knowing exactly what you need to do when, navigation and knowledge of the route, and the right partners and nutrition are apparently critical.
8a tops? :)
The idea appeals, but the Lakes is just too far way to get the familiarisation, and the well know local rounds (Tranter / Ramsay) are a but too far away too and too conditions dependant (and too steep!). Was thinking about exploring a round of Glen Clova this year, seeings the Ultra I was planning on training for is postponed 'til October now.
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weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100,
A word of caution with these. I was keen to do them once but word from Volker Schoffl (injuries guru) was that it was dangerous because of the seesaw action of the tendons against the tendon sheaths.
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weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100,
A word of caution with these. I was keen to do them once but word from Volker Schoffl (injuries guru) was that it was dangerous because of the seesaw action of the tendons against the tendon sheaths.
Good point. I was liking these as they get me very pumped but there is no loading on the elbows or shoulders. I didn't think about sheath inflammation though. The loads I use don't feel very high compared to BW but maybe that doesn't matter as it is not static? I might keep one set in a week and see how I go.
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weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100,
A word of caution with these. I was keen to do them once but word from Volker Schoffl (injuries guru) was that it was dangerous because of the seesaw action of the tendons against the tendon sheaths.
This is a shame as dynamic exercises are typically better for strength and hypertrophy gains than static exercises. E.g. gymnasts will incorporate lots of pressing exercises to build raw strength for the planche rather than just doing lots of specific straight arm work.
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woodhouse: too eliminate
Got to stick up for The Scar here. If you can get past the litter (take a rubbish bag and gloves to clear it up!), it's a genuinely great venue with some really classic problems, and Ian's Roof is both excellent and hard, giving quite rare properly sustained climbing. Let down only slightly by the landing at the end.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCLiRTqj90P/?igshid=1bqrybohtxywh
Are these problems quite weather resistant? It might not be the line I get ultra psyched for, but it's one of my closest venues at 30 mins drive, so a weather resistant hard eliminate might be good as an additional project! The actual climbing on it looks good.
Also how are they on skin? As a heavyweight climber, managing skin is the bane of my life.
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weighted finger tip curls (12 mm edge + 10kg x 100,
A word of caution with these. I was keen to do them once but word from Volker Schoffl (injuries guru) was that it was dangerous because of the seesaw action of the tendons against the tendon sheaths.
This is a shame as dynamic exercises are typically better for strength and hypertrophy gains than static exercises. E.g. gymnasts will incorporate lots of pressing exercises to build raw strength for the planche rather than just doing lots of specific straight arm work.
Also on a lot of hard moves you catch a hold open handed and close it into a crimp to move off
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Think this is the most consistinetly on-time I've ever been for anything in my life... If that's all I ever get out of Power Club then it's enough for me ;DA
M: Blackberry wall - Worked fingers
T: Shoulder stability stuff
W: Went to blackberry wall but far too cold - managed about 20 minutes! Home for a board session - 2hrs of mainly PE (15ish moves) Trashed!
T: Shoulder stability stuff
F: Fingerboard warmup session... 25mins bounces, repeaters and finally hangs to failure on 19mm edge. Fingers feeling fine! Board session - more power focussed session - up to 7 moves trying to use just jibs for feet and avoiding kickboard... Tried really hard!
S: Walk with fam, took ropes and some gear and set up a little ab so I could teach the kids and GF some valuable life skills - they loved it :shrug: Pottered on the boulders till everyone got too cold and went for a chippy tea... Ace!
S: Horseshit with GF - Had to take me youngest with us as managed to balls up childcare arrangements with the ex... Cold and not really feeling it, did a few easy routes and sacked it off... Shoulder stuff and elbow eccentrics (see below).
Not a bad week - feeling slightly tweaky in the elbows (golfers side)... Attributing it to the board sessions (even though according to Dave Mac's book he seems to indicate that traing power on a 45ish board shouldn't do this (???) - could be all the crimping and locking off on blackberry wall I suppose)... Decided to start a program of golfers rehab/prevention eccentrics along with my shoulder stuff. Feel like I've been neglecting the rehab stuff a bit really - still do it on off days but it's a bit half arsed and the shoulder, while usable, is still sore most days... Think I tend to climb cold a bit too much too so will try and be more focussed on doing a warmup at home and if that proves too tricky (it's sometimes hard enough just getting out the house before dark!) at least doing some general warming and theraband work before starting climbing...
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feeling slightly tweaky in the elbows (golfers side)... Attributing it to the board sessions (even though according to Dave Mac's book he seems to indicate that traing power on a 45ish board shouldn't do this (???)
:lol: :lol: :lol: meanwhile back in reality.....
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Think this is the most consistinetly on-time I've ever been for anything in my life... If that's all I ever get out of Power Club then it's enough for me ;DA
Keep this virtuous trend going by tackling the UKB IT snagging list :jab:
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Think this is the most consistinetly on-time I've ever been for anything in my life... If that's all I ever get out of Power Club then it's enough for me ;DA
Keep this virtuous trend going by tackling the UKB IT snagging list :jab:
Duly noted... :slap:
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woodhouse: too eliminate
Got to stick up for The Scar here. If you can get past the litter (take a rubbish bag and gloves to clear it up!), it's a genuinely great venue with some really classic problems, and Ian's Roof is both excellent and hard, giving quite rare properly sustained climbing. Let down only slightly by the landing at the end.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCLiRTqj90P/?igshid=1bqrybohtxywh
Are these problems quite weather resistant? It might not be the line I get ultra psyched for, but it's one of my closest venues at 30 mins drive, so a weather resistant hard eliminate might be good as an additional project! The actual climbing on it looks good.
Also how are they on skin? As a heavyweight climber, managing skin is the bane of my life.
Crag faces south, is nice and high up above a valley (decent views), and this time of year dries at Almscliff speed with a bit of a breeze. Some bits stay dry in the rain. Rock is generally pretty clean. Standard grit skin required really, can't think of any grit that's easy on the skin!
Neither Ian's Roof nor Houdini are eliminate at all. Or at least, you need to avoid the shelf on your left at the end, but really that's no different to eliminating the ground...
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feeling slightly tweaky in the elbows (golfers side)... Attributing it to the board sessions (even though according to Dave Mac's book he seems to indicate that traing power on a 45ish board shouldn't do this (???)
:lol: :lol: :lol: meanwhile back in reality.....
That's what I though but he does allude to the mid range of flexation involved with this type of climbing being less aggrovating than say deep locking when clipping bolts on easy routes... Seems pretty anecdotal but when trying to work out what's causing a problem I'd rather not discount summat as it's not the obvious cause (i.e. crimpy off vertical traversing vs steep bouldering)....
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Power Club
Mon - board, circuit, links up to 12 moves. Tired. PE low 30/30 x5. Weights. Need to give fingers some rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - tired. Lattice, a few hangs from -4 to BW. Need to give fingers some rest. No really. Snatch DL up to 110. DL up to 130. Hitting these numbers also when tired is very satisfiying. Need to give my glutes and lower back some rest. Bar work. Abs.
Thu - PE low 30/30 ×12, La Rambla here I come. 6 boxing rounds. Hill sprints. Nice.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights and carries.
Sun - farmer's static holds (110 kg) and overhead carry (40 kg) 30/30 alternated x24.
Spent the weekend moving lots of logs in a wood. Brilliant stuff.
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DMac never had Horseshit on his doorstep as a rehab venue tho, so his science is limited!
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DMac never had Horseshit on his doorstep as a rehab venue tho, so his science is limited!
What are you saying??? Great training for Shale climbing! Choss is the new gritstone don't cha know!! :2thumbsup:
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Another suggestion what about heading south to Wharncliffe? Kobe at 8a looks like a good problem in the videos I have seen (I haven't seen it in real life...)
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DMac never had Horseshit on his doorstep as a rehab venue tho, so his science is limited!
What are you saying??? Great training for Shale climbing! Choss is the new gritstone don't cha know!! :2thumbsup:
Anyways wtf are you doing posting on here - I can't see your entry??? I'd expect:
M: Tournament wanking
T: Lead figure painting
W: Tournament wanking
T: Tournament wanking and Lead figure painting
F: Rest
S: Choss
S: Choss
:tease:
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Was It You?
Good to see this, described in different guidebooks as "inscrutable" and "an enigma", now getting regular attention. Whatever the mystery behind the first ascent the line looks magnificent.
I thought Bristol Unillustrated was a fantastic little route in a similarly exposed position, and it was always effectively a sport route. That was a long time ago and it's probably in a state of disrepair, but it would be well worth resurrecting.
Gets a star and "...would be a classic were it on the Upper Wall" in the latest guidebook. 7c is suggested. Nearby, Coup d'Etat also looks good but seems to be even harder (E6 for 7c+ climbing is a bit harsh?).
In other Avon news, Unknown Pleasures seems to be falling down :no:
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Another suggestion what about heading south to Wharncliffe? Kobe at 8a looks like a good problem in the videos I have seen (I haven't seen it in real life...)
Very good and probably reasonable for the grade... if you're tall. For an average height climber it's probably a hard 8a or harder. Shorties need not apply.
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In other Avon news, Unknown Pleasures seems to be falling down :no:
The blocks at the base now are pretty impressive! I walked up this slope last Sunday, must have only been a day or two before the rockfall, certainly gave pause for thought when I saw the blocks from the Was It You belay on Friday!
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Another suggestion what about heading south to Wharncliffe? Kobe at 8a looks like a good problem in the videos I have seen (I haven't seen it in real life...)
Very good and probably reasonable for the grade... if you're tall. For an average height climber it's probably a hard 8a or harder. Shorties need not apply.
This looks excellent and lanking is a forte of mine but crimping isn't and I fear my fingers might be too puny for it. I'll certainly put it on the list to go and have a look at! Dragon Slayer looks like a good consolation if I can't pull off the deck at least.
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M - rest.
T - Max hangs. Decided to stick with the two arm hangs this month as they seem to be easier on my dodgy finger. After warming up managed hangs of 10, 6, 5, 5 5 sec duration at +40kg. This is an improvement on last week. Would be good to string a few 10 second hangs together. Stability hangs and pressups.
W - core and stretching. Felt like I needed it.
T - Anderson hangs. Got a bit confused with my weights and thought I was doing better than I was. Must have tricked my subconscious as it went well. Started with a base weight of +8.75kg on the 20mm edge and completed the set, having failed on +6.25kg last week. :shrug: Had a go on the bottom outside edge at the same weight and failed with a few reps to go. Easily a PB though. Not sure how to play it from now on as must be approaching max - might drop the weight and up the volume a bit in prep for routes.
F - rest.
S - Shining Cliff. A good circuit on the main edge and in the quarries. Did the 5's at Goosecreature which are great, Got Milk, Peaches and Crust and got totally shut down on Moo Cow (nails!) before moving to the quarries. Phaar Side Arete was very good, as was Far Side Story, which took ages to work out. Book of Tricks looked ace, but skin had had more than enough by that point. Nice day out.
S - tempted out to Slawston for a bit of traversing by the sun. A nice hour or so before skin started hurting.
Another reasonably solid week which staved off the boredom.
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Another suggestion what about heading south to Wharncliffe? Kobe at 8a looks like a good problem in the videos I have seen (I haven't seen it in real life...)
Very good and probably reasonable for the grade... if you're tall. For an average height climber it's probably a hard 8a or harder. Shorties need not apply.
this was on my "post lockdown" list, so thanks for saving me a trip.
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If you're 'just' after the sub 24 round, probably closer to 8a/+ I would say. The limiting factor for a decent fell runner is probably the logistics and committing to doing it, so maybe a trad grade is more appropriate?!
Getting around is probably something closer to E3/4. Keen but not mental, just committed. Based on receding ambitions and helping out a few times. Less than 3mph, just a lot of it :)
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For most people, more a redpoint than an onsight, hence the sport grade! :)
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If you're 'just' after the sub 24 round, probably closer to 8a/+ I would say. The limiting factor for a decent fell runner is probably the logistics and committing to doing it, so maybe a trad grade is more appropriate?!
Getting around is probably something closer to E3/4. Keen but not mental, just committed. Based on receding ambitions and helping out a few times. Less than 3mph, just a lot of it :)
I remember Al Powell telling me he hitched up from Leeds a few weeks after his finals, dossed in a park in Keswick, and ran the BG alone, carrying all his food, in 18 hours. Dossed in the park again and hitched home the next morning.
I wouldn't give that a sports grade...
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I know someone who did it in 1985 and the tale goes something along the lines of them having a few drinks the night before, deciding to do it, sleeping in the van, getting up early and nipping round. I think he did it again and found it a lot harder the second time around.
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If you're 'just' after the sub 24 round, probably closer to 8a/+ I would say. The limiting factor for a decent fell runner is probably the logistics and committing to doing it, so maybe a trad grade is more appropriate?!
Getting around is probably something closer to E3/4. Keen but not mental, just committed. Based on receding ambitions and helping out a few times. Less than 3mph, just a lot of it :)
When I last looked very few over 60 year olds had done the BG and the oldest was 66. Isn’t this more like E6/7?
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Getting around is probably something closer to E3/4. Keen but not mental, just committed. Based on receding ambitions and helping out a few times. Less than 3mph, just a lot of it :)
Looking at this from a slightly different direction, getting to E3/4 is/was (relatively) easy within a few years of starting climbing. Doing the BG within a few years of starting running wouldn't be (unless you have some sort of background in some other endurance type sport) - E5 minimum and probably harder!
When I last looked very few over 60 year olds had done the BG and the oldest was 66. Isn’t this more like E6/7?
I think Ken Taylor was in his seventies when he did it.
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E6 6b then. Sustained moderate ground with no hard cruxes.