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the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Duma on November 09, 2020, 11:58:56 am
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I've heard something about a two finger pocket, but can't find anything that could reasonably described as such. Several marginal two finger crimps, but no pockets.
Also when is it kosher to take the arete?
Remus?
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I've heard something about a two finger pocket, but can't find anything that could reasonably described as such. Several marginal two finger crimps, but no pockets.
Also when is it kosher to take the arete?
Remus?
Sorry, been years since I was on it and can't remember anything.
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Quote from ally Smith in 2006 from the ukc forums:
"3x 7a moves is an exaggeration. Couple easy moves to open up. One hard move (i can't do) followed by two intense "vertical slab" moves to get the good hold"
Had a bit of a play on it the other day and this seems pretty accurate
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There is a small round shallow indentation which is a two finger crimp....calling it a pocket is highly optimistic.
I think you can stick a foot out right on a big slopey foothold and pull up to get the arête. I don’t know if this is allowed but there are no holds for a more direct line not using the arête.
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Thanks Guy, do you remember which hand you took the "pocket" with? Also, amazing effort soloing this - mattress or not, its too high to be a boulder for me!
CC60, that sounds about right, "vertical slab moves" is a great description!
Here's what I kind of managed on a shunt the other day:
Couple of easy moves to big diagonal rail, clip first bolt.
Outrageously hard rockover move from rail to really bad RH crimp (crux).
LF on near LH and hard move up to bad LH. (Still really hard, and LH hold eats skin)
Sort feet, bump RH to slightly better 2 finger crimp (could be described as a very shallow slot, candidate for the "pocket"?).
RF high on slopey foothold, RH up to OK small sidepull. Clip second bolt. (End of the really hard moves)
Paste LF on, long move to LH crimpy depression (possible candidate for pocket?)
Reach R with RH to poor crimp near arete.
LF onto the "slot" from earlier, RF out onto decent slopey foothold, LH in near RH on worse crimp.
Pounce RH to good arete.
Bimble to top.
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Duma
I had a mattress that someone had flytipped into the brick building at the other end of the sea walls and a couple of pads.
The sequence sounds pretty similar to mine apart from the start where I did a full press from the finger rail to reach the LH crimp. This was the crux for me.
Really cold temperatures will make a huge difference.
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Yeah, definitely one for a cold day! I waited for the sun to drop last week but was still too warm really
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Problem is;
If you're not in the mood to dance, step back, grab yourself a seat
This may not be uptown Jamaica, but we promise you a treat
Buster, bowl me over with your bogus dance, shuffle me off my feet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_srIE-YAb8
(sorry, comes into my head every time I see this thread).
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There's a video of Hamish on it here: https://vimeo.com/63560969
Also, I'd be keen to try it at some point if anyone wants a belay.
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Ah.
Well that's disappointing - the moves I did go straight up to just after the second bolt before getting the arete. Can see how his sequence makes sense but I'm a bit less psyched for what looks like an indirect start to the arete tbh.
Guy was your sequence the same as Hamish?
(Thanks for the vid by the way Rueben)
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The gaston he takes with his LH at 1:03 I get with my RH as a sidepull, and was thinking to clip off it. Then a big move up with LH before moving out to the arete. Think I take the arete only a foot or two higher than Hamish, but my sequence climbs a lot more of the face.
Looks like the mystery "pocket" may be what he gets with his RH at 0:53, I never even looked over there tbh.
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Well that's disappointing
Yep. I always wondered where it was kosher to go to the arête. A lot lower than I was looking at, and you by the sound of it.
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(Thanks for the vid by the way Rueben)
No problemo. Seems it's impossible to it find via a google search for some reason.
On a similar note has anyone tried Crystal Tips at sea walls? I can't work it out at all.
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I tried this before it was done, and then tried it with Ian and I think belayed him on the first ascent (made the mistake of trying something hard with Ian back then which nearly always resulted in him doing it first)
The gaston he takes with his LH at 1:03 I get with my RH as a sidepull, and was thinking to clip off it. Then a big move up with LH before moving out to the arete. Think I take the arete only a foot or two higher than Hamish, but my sequence climbs a lot more of the face.
Looks like the mystery "pocket" may be what he gets with his RH at 0:53, I never even looked over there tbh.
I didn't jump in with any beta as I can't remember any. I do remember the second clip was pretty hard - this is what stopped me leading it the same day as Ian, so this would suggest we were climbing much more direct and my vague memory is we were climbing higher up the wall. I don't even remember the arete at all... Although it's a little, shittish route I've always wanted to go back and try it again.
ps this isn't a dig at the sequence anyone else uses, I just wanted to climb as much of the face as I could and Ian will have just done what I told him.
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The sequence I used was just like Hamish's. Using the gaston and a biggish sloping foothold out right. It always felt a bit disappointing afterwards as I was never sure if I did it properly.
If you want something in the same style and difficulty then check out Statement of Youth which is up the left end of the Sea Walls. Barrows gave me a spot on that back in the day when he was a punter.
That is a hard straight up crimpfest
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Thanks both. Agreed the face is what its about, and more is better obvs. Just a shame it turns out to be a bit eliminate.
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(Thanks for the vid by the way Rueben)
No problemo. Seems it's impossible to it find via a google search for some reason.
On a similar note has anyone tried Crystal Tips at sea walls? I can't work it out at all.
I finally managed to re climb Crystal Tips on NYE so have the beta back in my terrible memory bank. Happy to share abs also interested in what you strong folk think if it.
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I finally managed to re climb Crystal Tips on NYE so have the beta back in my terrible memory bank. Happy to share abs also interested in what you strong folk think if it.
Yes please. Beta would be much appreciated.
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Don’t tell him. He’ll only go and downgrade it two grades instead of the usual one
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How far are you getting on Crystal Tips? Or are you trying to work out the line/start?
As a total Newbie on UKB feel free to school me on whether I should start a new post for this beta.
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How far are you getting on Crystal Tips? Or are you trying to work out the line/start?
As a total Newbie on UKB feel free to school me on whether I should start a new post for this beta.
Welcome aboard. The main thing as a newbie to the board is to regularly fuck up the quoting function *
* this applies to several longtimers too.
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Welcome aboard. The main thing as a newbie to the board is to regularly fuck up the quoting function *
* this applies to several longtimers too.
[/quote]
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I’m not even sure how to reply on message threads so expect a grand amount of fuck ups on my part.
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How about statement of youth? Saw Guy down at sea walls the other day and he said that was worth a look too.
On The Prince front, can confirm my sequence going direct past the second bolt works OK, just hope I can ever get the first move again!
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I went to have a look at Statement on Sunday funnily enough. I got all the moves on The Prince on NYE. Probably had the same conversation with Guy as you did!
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How far are you getting on Crystal Tips? Or are you trying to work out the line/start?
As a total Newbie on UKB feel free to school me on whether I should start a new post for this beta.
Not far at all to be honest. I can get about 30cm of the floor in 2 different places before arriving at smeg all holds either way. (I think I had the same problem on Connoisseur's Choice as well.)
Don’t tell him. He’ll only go and downgrade it two grades instead of the usual one
Me????!!! Would I?
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If you want something in the same style and difficulty then check out Statement of Youth which is up the left end of the Sea Walls. Barrows gave me a spot on that back in the day when he was a punter.
That is a hard straight up crimpfest
Hi Guy! I'm still a punter, just own more kneepads than back in 2006 or whenever that was :) Probably worse at vert crimping than I was back then anyway!
Did the newer name for Statement ("Two gay dads" IIRC?) get ditched as being too at risk of causing offense?
P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you.. :wave:
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If you want something in the same style and difficulty then check out Statement of Youth which is up the left end of the Sea Walls.
How about statement of youth? Saw Guy down at sea walls the other day and he said that was worth a look too.
I am definitely going senile...
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P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you.. :wave:
It’s the same Rich Smith, Alex. Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldn’t have a burger?
And can someone post a picture or beta vid for Crystal Tips. Apparently I’ve done it but I have absolutely no memory of this. It’s making me feel senile and I hate it.
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Alex Let’s agree that you are an über-punter.
Adam originally thought of Two Gay Dads and Martin Crocker asked him if he could think of a different name before in went in the book. So I guess Martin thought it might be offensive
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Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldn’t have a burger?
The injustice of it all would be too much for the population of ukb to take...
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And can someone post a picture or beta vid for Crystal Tips. Apparently I’ve done it but I have absolutely no memory of this. It’s making me feel senile and I hate it.
You've definitely done it: I was there. You might even have done the first ascent? Can't remember if it was you or Rob Sutton who got up it first.
No beta video but I recall a Gaston edge for left hand and rocking over rightward on to the ramp feature that is close to the start of connoisseurs choice. The key was not to pull too hard on the sharp crystal edge/pocket. Just use it for balance and get a foot up on a horizontal band of texture before reaching up to a scoop and then the top. Typical avon dirt vert; feels hideous and then you can lap it.
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Don’t take my only first ascent away from me Ali ;D You are right though Rob Sutton was there as well as Stu. I will post some video or pictures if I can from recent ascent. Might even be there later today. I crank on the Crystal hole though to get out left. It starts of the hideous crimp to the right of the Gaston.
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P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you.. :wave:
It’s the same Rich Smith, Alex. Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldn’t have a burger?
Hi Alex! Long time no see. It is indeed BGS Rich. The burger story is not mine to tell Stu. Suffice to say that Alex was in training for climbing Equadorian volcanoes at the time with another teacher who was much meaner than me.
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Don’t take my only first ascent away from me Ali ;D You are right though Rob Sutton was there as well as Stu.
My bad! :sorry:
Senility all round it seems
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:lol: No worries. Glad you at least remember the problem unlike Stu.
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P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you.. :wave:
It’s the same Rich Smith, Alex. Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldn’t have a burger?
Hi Alex! Long time no see. It is indeed BGS Rich. The burger story is not mine to tell Stu. Suffice to say that Alex was in training for climbing Equadorian volcanoes at the time with another teacher who was much meaner than me.
You must also be the Rich Smith I went to Siurana with in the early 2000s, with Luke G and Roger W...
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No idea about any of these routes, but got to say I loved the Gorge with a passion - what a crag.
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You must also be the Rich Smith I went to Siurana with in the early 2000s, with Luke G and Roger W...
You definitely aren’t senile then. That is quite some memory recall. I think that was the trip I worked out how to red point rather than sport climb like a trad climber. Luke had been on some coaching trip I think with Neil Gresham? and I got all the benefit despite not being there ;D
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Did this today. Heel instead of toe for rockover move meant could get first move more consistently. Clip is okish, but def adds something to the moves after! Anyway, really pleased to climb as much of the face as I could manage.
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Did this today. Heel instead of toe for rockover move meant could get first move more consistently. Clip is okish, but def adds something to the moves after! Anyway, really pleased to climb as much of the face as I could manage.
Good skills! Another avon classic in the bag.
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Congrats Duma!
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Nice Duma.
Is this the one Vickers (or someone) named after Prince Naseem, because it's "short and hard"?
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Nice one Duma :2thumbsup:
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Cheers gents. Had a play afterwards at eliminating the arete completely, and think it may go, though pretty contrived. Will probably have another look as owe a belay or two anyway.
Chris, no idea, Ben may know?
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I seen to recall reading it in an OTE, for some reason it just stuck..
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Is this the one Vickers (or someone) named after Prince Naseem, because it's "short and hard"?
That's my recollection too.
Nice work Duma :2thumbsup: :strongbench:
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Good skills! Another avon 7m high finger-nasty blinkered pico-eliminate in the bag ;)
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Nice one Duma. :punk: