UKBouldering.com
places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: bigironhorse on August 23, 2019, 06:23:23 pm
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Thought it would be good to get a thread going for the olympics next year. Watching the world champs last week has got me pretty excited about this.
So far, these are the climbers who have finished in a position which makes them eligible for selection:
| 1 | GARNBRET | Janja | SLO |
| 2 | NOGUCHI | Akiyo | JPN |
| 3 | COXSEY | Shauna | GBR |
| 4 | MIROSLAW | Aleksandra | POL |
| 5 | NONAKA | Miho | JPN |
| 6 | MORI | Ai | JPN |
| 7 | ITO | Futaba | JPN |
| 8 | KLINGLER | Petra | SUI |
| 9 | RABOUTOU | Brooke | USA |
| 1 | NARASAKI | Tomoa | JPN |
| 2 | SCHUBERT | Jakob | AUT |
| 3 | KHAIBULLIN | Rishat | KAZ |
| 4 | HARADA | Kai | JPN |
| 5 | NARASAKI | Meichi | JPN |
| 6 | FUJII | Kokoro | JPN |
| 7 | MAWEM | Mickael | FRA |
| 8 | MEGOS | Alexander | GER |
| 9 | FOSSALI | Ludovico | ITA |
Anyone know if anyone has been confirmed yet?
Also, are all the japanese climbers that finished in the top 7 eligible or just the top 2?
Next qualifying event is the olympic qualifying event at the end of November.
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There was a lot of chat about the Japanese selectors in the commentary for the combined. I think they can choose from their eligible athletes, plus Japan would have had one (male and female) anyway for being host nation even if none had qualified.
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Is it two of each gender allowed per country or just two total?
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Is it two of each gender allowed per country or just two total?
2 per gender per country.
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The process is that the IFSC sends letters to various NOC's inviting athletes, 7 men and 7 women, 2 of which are (for each gender) from Japan. This has to happen very quickly, in fact it probably has already happened.
The NOC has 2 weeks to accept.
Then any rejigging happens eg if there is a Japanese climber already confirmed then the guaranteed Japanese place gets re-allocated and another athlete gets the invite.
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The process is that the IFSC sends letters to various NOC's inviting athletes, 7 men and 7 women, 2 of which are (for each gender) from Japan. This has to happen very quickly, in fact it probably has already happened.
The NOC has 2 weeks to accept.
Then any rejigging happens eg if there is a Japanese climber already confirmed then the guaranteed Japanese place gets re-allocated and another athlete gets the invite.
Yes I was going to mention that. Seems likely that Jessie Pilz and Sean McColl will get a place too, because if the host nation place isn't used it will be the offered to the next ranked climber from Hachioji (according to Charlie Boscoe's article on the other channel).
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The process is that the IFSC sends letters to various NOC's inviting athletes, 7 men and 7 women, 2 of which are (for each gender) from Japan. This has to happen very quickly, in fact it probably has already happened.
The NOC has 2 weeks to accept.
Then any rejigging happens eg if there is a Japanese climber already confirmed then the guaranteed Japanese place gets re-allocated and another athlete gets the invite.
Just the top two then? Or can they pick from all of the eligible climbers? Cheers
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Both Jessie and Sean have confirmed on their own instagram that they are going, from which I assumed it was definite...could be wrong though.
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One question I had for Graeme or another knowledgeable person...
I thought that if the Japanese turned one of their places this time around, they would have to win a second place again at a future comp that was part of the qualifying 'pathway', and the climber they send would have to be the person that achieved that. However, there was some speculation on the hachioji commentary that they were going to send the person who won the Japanese national championships. Are they allowed to do this (eg by claiming it is their host place) or do they have to send someone at the point they qualify from Toulouse or from the Asian continental qualifying competition in 2020?
Perhaps a minor point but I was interested and couldn't work it out.
Thanks
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Updated lists
| 1 | GARNBRET | Janja | SLO |
| 2 | NOGUCHI | Akiyo | JPN |
| 3 | COXSEY | Shauna | GBR |
| 4 | MIROSLAW | Aleksandra | POL |
| 5 | NONAKA | Miho | JPN |
| 6 | MORI | Ai | JPN |
| 7 | ITO | Futaba | JPN |
| 8 | KLINGLER | Petra | SUI |
| 9 | RABOUTOU | Brooke | USA |
| 10 | PILZ | Jessica | AUT |
| | | |
| 1 | NARASAKI | Tomoa | JPN |
| 2 | SCHUBERT | Jakob | AUT |
| 3 | KHAIBULLIN | Rishat | KAZ |
| 4 | HARADA | Kai | JPN |
| 5 | NARASAKI | Meichi | JPN |
| 6 | FUJII | Kokoro | JPN |
| 7 | MAWEM | Mickael | FRA |
| 8 | MEGOS | Alexander | GER |
| 9 | FOSSALI | Ludovico | ITA |
| 10 | MCCOLL | Sean | CAN |
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One question I had for Graeme or another knowledgeable person...
I thought that if the Japanese turned one of their places this time around, they would have to win a second place again at a future comp that was part of the qualifying 'pathway', and the climber they send would have to be the person that achieved that. However, there was some speculation on the hachioji commentary that they were going to send the person who won the Japanese national championships. Are they allowed to do this (eg by claiming it is their host place) or do they have to send someone at the point they qualify from Toulouse or from the Asian continental qualifying competition in 2020?
Perhaps a minor point but I was interested and couldn't work it out.
Thanks
Not sure about this. I think the only way that they could guarantee sending the nationals winner would be by using the host national reserved allocation, but I think this is void now that they have had 2+ climbers qualify in the combined world champs.
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Men's qualifying in Toulouse starting soon.
https://youtu.be/6_TrT95-hLo
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Bouldering pretty enjoyable despite the the top half of the field all getting 3 tops and a bonus. Looks like Bosi is in with a shout of qualifying for the final?
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Interesting that there is still the assumption that if you win 1 discipline then you will be in the final. That was probably true with 20 starters but with 22 maybe it has changed. In Hachioji 432 (men) or 420 (women) got you through but Bassa is now on 21 and is likely to get another 21 or 22 in the Lead - I can't see him beating anyone other than Alfian. So Bassa is maybe looking at a score of 441 which might put him just out of the final.
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Yeah but in Hachioji there was only 20 so the equivalent result would be 1x19(second to last) x 20 (last) = 380
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I think Graham's point is that there being 22 may not affect the non-specialists who do well, as they'll not be down in those places in anything anyway... so the benchmark to get into the final won't be miles different... whereas it will affect the speed specialists, thus reducing their chances
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can someone remind me how many get olympic places from this one?
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Is this the one where Ondra has to do well (win?) to be a cert (i.e. not a wildcard selection) for the Olympics.
Can we have an update on how he's doing?
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If he does ok (as he should) in the lead it looks like he'll be in. 2nd in boulder, 14th in speed.
Today is qualies, but qualies basically determines who gets the olympic spot - I looked up the answer to my Q and it's 6 who go through to the olympics (there's 8 in finals in Toulouse). If you assume that a couple of Japanese get into finals (or 2 of a country with someone already qualified) then basically it means finals probably gets you in..
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can someone remind me how many get olympic places from this one?
6
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That was spicy with Kruder
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Ha! I like how the commentator says "he needs to find something pretty massive" immediately before he rips the hold off!
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Fuck, that was crazy!
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A volume fell off at a Chamonix World Cup but that only had 1 screw (no it wasn't Jacky setting) but I have never seen anything like that, 4 screws ripping out!
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Jernej just too strong!
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Can someone gimme a time for that plz :)
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He climbed 2nd
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Cheers, that was pretty exciting! Bolted into another volume rather than the wall, might have made a difference.
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I wonder whether the original screws had a shoulder rather than threaded all the way.
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I wonder if Kruder is going to book a trip to the Lleyn given his stoicism in the situation?
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I wonder if Kruder is going to book a trip to the Lleyn given his stoicism in the situation?
or the dolomites
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So given 2 japanese men got through, all the other men in the finals have a place at Tokyo 2020?
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So given 2 japanese men got through, all the other men in the finals have a place at Tokyo 2020?
Yes.
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| 1 | NARASAKI* | Tomoa | JPN |
| 2 | SCHUBERT | Jakob | AUT |
| 3 | KHAIBULLIN | Rishat | KAZ |
| 4 | HARADA* | Kai | JPN |
| 5 | NARASAKI* | Meichi | JPN |
| 6 | FUJII* | Kokoro | JPN |
| 7 | MAWEM | Mickael | FRA |
| 8 | MEGOS | Alexander | GER |
| 9 | FOSSALI | Ludovico | ITA |
| 10 | MCCOLL | Sean | CAN |
| 11 | ONDRA | Adam | CZE |
| 12 | PAN | YuFei | CHN |
| 13 | GINÉS LÓPEZ | Alberto | ESP |
| 14 | HOJER | Jan | GER |
| 15 | MAWEM | Bassa | FRA |
| 16 | COLEMAN | Nathaniel | USA |
Updated table for male Olympic climbers. I have given up on trying to work out who is confirmed for Japan so if anyone else knows what is going on let me know!
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Well I for one am really glad Ondra's made it onto that list, it would have been such a shame not to have him there in Tokyo.
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Yep this, watched the comp yesterday and was made up that Ondra qualified. First time I've watched the combined event, found it a good watch. Especially interesting to see how the specialists all compare on their relative weakest events - the two speed specialists on the Bouldering and Ondra on the Speed etc.. Clearly he isn't a sprinter!
Felt for the French lead climber who slipped by the 3rd draw and got beaten by even the two speed specialists. I was trying to guesstimate how hard that lead route was - 8b+/c? 7c to where the speed climber fell off? Sound about right??
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yeah Cornu looked gutted - not sure he had much chance realistically though, hes a boulderer and damage had been done in the previous 2 rounds, think he'd have needed 2nd in lead to get through.
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Glad Ondra got through :2thumbsup:
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I’m confused by all this, don’t Japan have an additional place as hosts to fill? Or was that only if they didn’t get 2 through anyway.
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Yes the host nation quota place was only to be used if no climbers qualified in the normal way. I think Tomoa is confirmed but not sure who else is definitely going to the Olympics.
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I think thats right, but they can choose who to send if they qualify more than 2?? Graeme?
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So if I read the wiki page right (and it is correct), the Japanese places have all been filled? If so how can other Japanese athletes be allowed to compete at what is explicitly an olympic qualifying event, when their inclusion could change who qualifies?
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Isn’t there some sort of ongoing court case around this issue currently?
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I think i'll trust the wiki. Hadn't seen that until now.
Crazy fall by the first climber out on the lead! Nice reverse knee bar by Margo Hayes too.
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I’m confused by all this, don’t Japan have an additional place as hosts to fill? Or was that only if they didn’t get 2 through anyway.
It was never an additional place, it is just a single guaranteed place. As soon as 1 JPN climber was confirmed the place was reallocated.
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I think thats right, but they can choose who to send if they qualify more than 2?? Graeme?
I think that the JMSCA thought this was the case but someone from the IOC had a different reading of the rules.
And the rules said that JPN could send athletes to Toulouse, changing this might have led to another court case.
Looking at the CAS website there is no mention of a ruling on the original suit, although a searching for JMSCA or IFSC or Climbing shows zero results so who knows.
(Edited after searching CAS website)
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Pretty disappointing for Rakovec!
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It was interesting to se how the format panned out. It looks like you can begin to make some predictions for the Olympics:
1) At least one speed climber will make the last-eight final but they will come last in bouldering and lead and won't podium
2) The setting (setters) will have a massive influence on the results particularly in the final
3) The result of the qualification round will be a more robust measure of all-round 'ability' than the result of the final.
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2) The setting (setters) will have a massive influence on the results particularly in the final
This must be right - do you know how that will be handled Graeme? I know that's always an issue, but in a world cup it all evens out over several events and a win means less, so there's less incentive to try and influence setting style, but the Olympics is different.
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Agree, especially with only 3 boulders in the final, if you have one that doesn’t suit you (because you have 10 fused vertebrae for example!) then you have very little chance to make up ground.
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Ironically in the woman's final, they ended up setting two slab boulders that suited lead climbers and a lead route that favoured boulderers.
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I guess he is suggesting that if the two Japanese climbers could be selected then they would count towards the six that can be nominated, so the 7th or 8th placed climbers could be at risk of having invites revoked. I believe there are ongoing negotiations between the ifsc and Japanese team regarding this.
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I think he was referring to the Japanese suing the IFSC. As Bigironhorse says.
There's an article on ukc about it (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/11/japanese_federation_sues_ifsc_olympic_selection_rule_changes_confuse-72122) I'd summarise but I don't understand it well enough.
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I don't understand it well enough.
Ditto.
I think the long and short of it is that the IFSC intended to invite climbers immediately after they achieved a qualifying result, and that the climbers would have to accept shortly after being invited. On the other hand the Japanese team thought they could get as many climbers as possible in qualifying positions and then select who to send at a later date.
Disclaimer: could be bollocks.
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i really hope that when/if Adam Ondra makes it to the final at the olympics, he'll use the speed event as a warm up route, climbing it slowly and deliberately , saving all his energy for the other events.
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Updated lists of qualified climbers:
| 1 | GARNBRET | Janja | SLO |
| 2 | NOGUCHI | Akiyo | JPN |
| 3 | COXSEY | Shauna | GBR |
| 4 | MIROSLAW | Aleksandra | POL |
| 5 | NONAKA | Miho | JPN |
| 6 | KLINGLER | Petra | SUI |
| 7 | RABOUTOU | Brooke | USA |
| 8 | PILZ | Jessica | AUT |
| 9 | CHANOURDIE | Julia | FRA |
| 10 | KRAMPL | Mia | SLO |
| 11 | KAPLINA | Iuliia | RUS |
| 12 | CONDIE | Kyra | USA |
| 13 | ROGORA | Laura | ITA |
| 14 | SONG | YiLing | CHN |
| 1 | NARASAKI | Tomoa | JPN |
| 2 | SCHUBERT | Jakob | AUT |
| 3 | KHAIBULLIN | Rishat | KAZ |
| 4 | HARADA | Kai | JPN |
| 5 | MAWEM | Mickael | FRA |
| 6 | MEGOS | Alexander | GER |
| 7 | FOSSALI | Ludovico | ITA |
| 8 | MCCOLL | Sean | CAN |
| 9 | ONDRA | Adam | CZE |
| 10 | PAN | YuFei | CHN |
| 11 | GINÉS LÓPEZ | Alberto | ESP |
| 12 | HOJER | Jan | GER |
| 13 | MAWEM | Bassa | FRA |
| 14 | COLEMAN | Nathaniel | USA |
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Looking at results, from Toulouse, did William Bosi only just miss the cut?
What chances has he got left now?
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Speculation time -
I guess Alanna Yip must be a shoe-in for the female pan American spot. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock? Any other continental champs that could be reasonably predicted? I guess the African and oceanian (sp?) comps can't have a massive depth of field? Who are the contenders for Asian champs discounting the Japanese? Jongwon Chon must be a good shout? Europeans must still be pretty open I guess.
Also, can the tripartite commission place break the 2 per country rule?
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Looking at results, from Toulouse, did William Bosi only just miss the cut?
What chances has he got left now?
European champs is last chance I believe...
Also, can the tripartite commission place break the 2 per country rule?
No, I think because no-one from the random small countries qualified to use it that it gets assigned to the next down the list in the World Champs, taking the quota into account... may be wrong on that though.
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. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock?
What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima? She really has seemed to struggle with the step up to adulthood unlike Janja who is a similar age and has just got better and better since she moved to the seniors. Ashima looked like the real deal but now seems behind a fair few of the others. Is it a classic case of american over hype or just a wobble.
I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.
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Looking at results, from Toulouse, did William Bosi only just miss the cut?
What chances has he got left now?
European champs is last chance I believe...
Ooof, tough field.
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True, but no French or Germans eases it a little
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Plus some of the best from other countries have qualified already - Ondra, Schubert, Gines Lopez... It's not gonna be a cruise, but certainly not out of the question either.
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. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock?
What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima? She really has seemed to struggle with the step up to adulthood unlike Janja who is a similar age and has just got better and better since she moved to the seniors. Ashima looked like the real deal but now seems behind a fair few of the others. Is it a classic case of american over hype or just a wobble.
I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.
too much Coke
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. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock?
What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima? She really has seemed to struggle with the step up to adulthood unlike Janja who is a similar age and has just got better and better since she moved to the seniors. Ashima looked like the real deal but now seems behind a fair few of the others. Is it a classic case of american over hype or just a wobble.
I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.
Tbf Ashima was pretty astonishing in 2014-2016, still better record than Janja outdoors I think? She's also 2 years younger I believe.
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I have not seen newyorker or national geo running Janja articles.
I bet Slovenskje Merkur (or whatever it's actually called) does though. Price of coming from a little obscure place innit.
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I have been told by reliable sources that the sport section of Slovenian newspapers regularly features climbing news.
L'équipe certainly does.
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There's an interesting two part Science on Sport podcast on talent identification and early specialisation. IIRC typically around 85% of people who are fast tracked as pre-teens are no longer in the system for that sport at 17-18 years. Mental burn out and injury were big factors - with late specialisation being viewed as a good thing for maintaining enthusiasm and avoiding chronic injury. Also, a lot of precocious youths are the result of having advantageous birth dates re the cut-off dates for age group selection, or have just matured a few years early - both advantages that disappear into adulthood.
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-make-a-champion-part-i/id1461719225?i=1000446817014 (https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-make-a-champion-part-i/id1461719225?i=1000446817014)
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-make-champion-part-ii-should-you-be-woods-or/id1461719225?i=1000447936269 (https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-make-champion-part-ii-should-you-be-woods-or/id1461719225?i=1000447936269)
https://play.acast.com/s/realscienceofsport/aa22af3b-ff8a-4755-a1b1-5ef75c0d908b (https://play.acast.com/s/realscienceofsport/aa22af3b-ff8a-4755-a1b1-5ef75c0d908b)
https://play.acast.com/s/realscienceofsport/6169cf6a-c4ad-47c2-98ab-2cab2db99357 (https://play.acast.com/s/realscienceofsport/6169cf6a-c4ad-47c2-98ab-2cab2db99357)
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What has happened to the hyped wonder kid Ashima?
Should she be delisted (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20073.0.html)? :devangel:
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And they don’t weigh 6 stone anymore.
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Speculation time -
I guess Alanna Yip must be a shoe-in for the female pan American spot. USA quota full so no Margo or Ashima which is a bit of a shock? Any other continental champs that could be reasonably predicted? I guess the African and oceanian (sp?) comps can't have a massive depth of field? Who are the contenders for Asian champs discounting the Japanese? Jongwon Chon must be a good shout? Europeans must still be pretty open I guess.
Also, can the tripartite commission place break the 2 per country rule?
Alannah stands a good chance but Valentino Aguado from ARG might challenge for the place.
Oceania would be the favourite for Oceania ;)
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[
Katie Brown?
That's the one! Faded away and then made a comeback with some hardish crack / trad routes recently.
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2) The setting (setters) will have a massive influence on the results particularly in the final
This must be right - do you know how that will be handled Graeme? I know that's always an issue, but in a world cup it all evens out over several events and a win means less, so there's less incentive to try and influence setting style, but the Olympics is different.
This vid about the Hachioji setting popped up in my feed today, I thought it was fascinating and the pressure is going to be even more next year
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Vk_sijg_HVY
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From the eminently readable A framework for understanding the training process leading to elite performance. (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14719980)
Long-term periodisation progress should not be subordinated to short-term competitive events. Once talent has been identified at a young age, there is a tendency to exploit an athlete with early specialisation and an over-ambitious competitive calendar. Training tends to focus on the outcome (winning) rather than the process (optimal training) and over- competing results in under-training. This often produces successful junior champions but they do not progress to be competitive at a senior level due to burnout (see section 5).
Didier Rabatou is well versed in sport science, I assume the same is true for his wife.
That said, maybe femal sport climbing is heading the way of some gymnastic events where puberty spells the end of the career, and only every fourth cohort (those who will be 15 at the time of olympics) is worth training.
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https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2019/dec/09/russia-banned-from-tokyo-olympics-and-football-world-cup
So that would make Fanny Gibert eligible for the Olympics, lest Iuliia Kaplina be able to prove she has not been involved in any doping activity?
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https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2019/dec/09/russia-banned-from-tokyo-olympics-and-football-world-cup
So that would make Fanny Gibert eligible for the Olympics, lest Iuliia Kaplina be able to prove she has not been involved in any doping activity?
This is what they did in 2016
https://www.olympic.org/news/decision-of-the-ioc-executive-board-concerning-the-participation-of-russian-athletes-in-the-olympic-games-rio-2016
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Have I missed something; Ashima hasn't qualified for the olympics.
So what? Was she even going for it?
Quite a lot of people seem to be still crushing despite not having qualified for the olympics. Its a dumb format anyway, etc...
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Caught up on the finals (boulder and lead only ofc), good stuff. Boulders particularly good viewing, it seems the setters cram as many crux moves from 4 "normal" boulders into the 3 combined format boulders, which is exciting. Nice to have a bonus bit of IFSC later in the season.
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Have I missed something; Ashima hasn't qualified
So what? Was she even going for it?
Quite a lot of people seem to be still crushing despite not having qualified for the olympics. Its a dumb format anyway, etc...
She was and hasn’t.
I don’t think your second comment is true. Could Possibly said for bouldering but in sports climbing without doubt the best climbers in the world are all focused on the olympics.
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https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2019/dec/09/russia-banned-from-tokyo-olympics-and-football-world-cup
So that would make Fanny Gibert eligible for the Olympics, lest Iuliia Kaplina be able to prove she has not been involved in any doping activity?
This is what they did in 2016
https://www.olympic.org/news/decision-of-the-ioc-executive-board-concerning-the-participation-of-russian-athletes-in-the-olympic-games-rio-2016
Post from Nat Berry on FB.
Russian Climbing Federation on WADA ban: 'Sport Climbing's Olympic debut can't happen without Russia!' headline reads. Their 1 quota place so far is proven to have been 'absolutely clean' over years of tests in events. ROC will push against ban. 2020 Euro Champs in Moscow are safe from ban. '[People from other countries] know that rock climbing originated more than 70 years ago in our country. It was with us that the first official starts [in competitions] took place. Olympic debut cannot take place without representatives of Russia!
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Disappointing she haan’t posted in the boardshare directory...
https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2020/feb/11/shauna-coxsey-climbing-tokyo-2020-olympics (https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2020/feb/11/shauna-coxsey-climbing-tokyo-2020-olympics)
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Anyone know the latest on this still happening / rumours of delay or cancellation? One of my colleagues has spent the whole winter training for the Tokyo Marathon that’s just been cancelled...
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At the moment they seem to be holding to the line that it will go ahead.
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Many Serie A matches abandoned this weekend. Even plans to play them behind closed doors have not happened.
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Given the enormous faff of rearranging the Olympics, presumably they'll have it go ahead but behind closed doors if at all possible??
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Given the enormous faff of rearranging the Olympics, presumably they'll have it go ahead but behind closed doors if at all possible??
X thousand athletes (and support teams) from all over the world - coming together and staying in the same Olympic village. No chance.
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The ramifications of cancelling are that lots of contracts will get cancelled, break clauses will be triggered and lots of insurance claims would be made. TV stations will have set aside blocks of time for coverage and they and other sponsors will probably be leaning pretty heavily on the IOC not to cancel. They can't rearrange for another time as it would clash with other sporting events and it can't easily be moved to another country as there's only 5 months left and no-where else has a complete range of olympic facilities in a usable state.
The IOC has no good option so it will probably just sit tight a bit longer and hope it all goes away.
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Maybe they should divert the efforts of all those doing boffins towards developing a vaccine.
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I quite enjoyed the Pan American comps. The women's comp was really good and I thought the Olympics place was well deserved by Yip. The men's comp was a bit disappointing overall I thought, boulders and route all too easy. Brilliant effort by Duffy but it would have been better to have more separation of the American men, especially on the boulders.
What follows is extremely nerdy and probably quite sad, but in case anyone is remotely interested:
Since the Olympics format was announced I've been wondering why they chose to have the speed as a head-to-head final rather than a time trial. In my opinion a time trial style comp were the best of three attempts is used would give a better representation of speed climbing skills. It seems unfair that climbers can place below their rivals who climbed the route more slowly.
I've done a bit of investigating as to whether I am right about the head-to-head vs time trial system for splitting climbers based on how fast they can climb - and the effect on the overall ranking. Here is a graph showing the overall place (speed x boulder x lead) attained by climbers using the head-to-head vs time trial system in Hachioji, Toulouse and the Pan American comp:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49612300883_ca7bd07a29_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iA51zZ)
In most cases using either system for speed ranks climbers in more or less the same order. But there are some pretty notable exceptions. For example, in Hachioji Futaba Ito came 5th in the speed despite having the second fastest time. Using the head-to-head system her overall position was 7th, below Nonaka and Noguchi. Had the time trial system been used she would have placed 3rd - below Noguchi but above Nonaka. So perhaps if the time trial system had been used Ito might have been selected rather than Nonaka.
Obviously this is pretty rough and ready as some climbers may have climbed conservatively in the speed knowing they had a weak opponent or had no chance of winning. Overall, the time trial system seems inherently fairer to me and I cannot see any benefit of the head-to-head system, other than that it might be more spectacular for the audience - a pretty poor rationale when competition is supposed to be about who is the best a comp climbing.
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Imagine if the 100m was done as a series of 2 person head to heads but one of the medal hopefuls had been knocked out in the first or second round despite running 9.8 seconds because they got drawn against Usain Bolt.
Whilst I'm thinking about hypothetical speed formats, imagine if rather than a 2 person head to head, there was 8 speed lines so we could have an 8 person speed final. It would take up a lot more space and would cost more to set up but I might actually watch that.
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Imagine if the 100m was done as a series of 2 person head to heads but one of the medal hopefuls had been knocked out in the first or second round despite running 9.8 seconds because they got drawn against Usain Bolt.
Yes, exactly my point!
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Aside from the weird speed climbing format, it's a shame that no South American climbers have managed to get a spot. Maybe the tripartite commission will select someone.
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Speed format is 1. lame and 2. dumb.
Tripartite will go to next person down in World Champs, once country quotas etc accounted for I believe
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Tripartite will go to next person down in World Champs, once country quotas etc accounted for I believe
That's the place 2 below. First one can be anyone they see fit. Might choose a South American for balanced representation? Is that one male and 1 female, or just 1?
Selection by the Olympic Committee – 2 Spots
The two remaining spots are selected by the Olympic Committee.
(1) One spot is for a “wildcard” athlete. S/he must have qualified for and competed in the first selection event in Hachioji, but not qualified for the Olympics there or through any other event.
(2) The other spot is reserved for the Japanese team. This way, as the host country, Japan is guaranteed at least one man and woman in the Olympic games. In the (very likely) event that the two spots for Japan are filled at the qualifying events, this spot is given to the next athlete in the rankings from the Hachioji selection event.
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No, I don't think so. AFAIK, the tripartite place was designed for smaller countries who are, basically, a bit shit and unlikely to qualify through the normal routes. No-one from an eligible country did enough qualifying events to be eligible for selection via this route, so now it goes to next placed in World Champs. (There was a story about this - one guy could have qualified if anyone had told him that all he needed to do was turn up to another World Cup speed event or something like that). The Japanese place has already been assigned I beleive
EDIT: From 8a.nu (fits with what I've seen elsewhere I think):
"As USA has filled their country quota, Drew Ruana lost his possibility to get the Tripartite ticket based from him being #13 in the World Championship. The Tripartite was supposed to go to the best athlete from a micro Olympic country but as no such competed in the Combined in Hachioji, it will go to the best in Hachioji respecting the country quota.
Michael Piccolruaz from Italy was #15 in Hachioji and he will go to Tokyo unless and Italian will qualify and fill their country quota in the European Championship. If the Italians will fill their country quota, then Jernej Kruder is next in line to get the Tripartite ticket."
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No, I don't think so. AFAIK, the tripartite place was designed for smaller countries who are, basically, a bit shit and unlikely to qualify through the normal routes. No-one from an eligible country did enough qualifying events to be eligible for selection via this route, so now it goes to next placed in World Champs. (There was a story about this - one guy could have qualified if anyone had told him that all he needed to do was turn up to another World Cup speed event or something like that). The Japanese place has already been assigned I beleive
EDIT: From 8a.nu (fits with what I've seen elsewhere I think):
"As USA has filled their country quota, Drew Ruana lost his possibility to get the Tripartite ticket based from him being #13 in the World Championship. The Tripartite was supposed to go to the best athlete from a micro Olympic country but as no such competed in the Combined in Hachioji, it will go to the best in Hachioji respecting the country quota.
Michael Piccolruaz from Italy was #15 in Hachioji and he will go to Tokyo unless and Italian will qualify and fill their country quota in the European Championship. If the Italians will fill their country quota, then Jernej Kruder is next in line to get the Tripartite ticket."
Thanks, good knowledge.
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Tripartite will go to next person down in World Champs, once country quotas etc accounted for I believe
Correct.
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(There was a story about this - one guy could have qualified if anyone had told him that all he needed to do was turn up to another World Cup speed event or something like that).
It was a guy from Pakistan, he was in Hachioji but didn't register for Lead, if he had he would have been eligible for the Tripartite place.
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Latest from Abe: postponement "may become inevitable". For non-Japanese speakers this can be translated as "there is absolutely no way the Olympics are taking place this summer".
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Yes seems very unlikely to go ahead! I wonder what the possibilities are in terms of cancellation or postponement? Postponing until 2021 seems like the most sensible and fair way to proceed IMO.
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Canadian Olympic Committee - with supporting quotes from Sean & Alannah - announced they won't be taking part if it goes ahead this summer as planned
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Canadian Olympic Committee - with supporting quotes from Sean & Alannah - announced they won't be taking part if it goes ahead this summer as planned
Australians as well now.
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Will delaying it a year be an utter disaster? I know there are lots of things geared up for 2020, but surely it can't go ahead.
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Latest from Abe: postponement "may become inevitable". For non-Japanese speakers this can be translated as "there is absolutely no way the Olympics are taking place this summer".
:lol:
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Looks like postponement until 2021.
https://www.bbc.com/sport/athletics/52002474
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Guessed as much.
Dick Pound - been an amusing name for so long.
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Thoughts and prayers for all the athletes who are gonna have to climb indoors and speed climb for another year :wavecry:
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Thoughts and prayers for all the athletes who are gonna have to climb indoors and speed climb for another year :wavecry:
Ondra must be pissed
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Thoughts and prayers for all the athletes who are gonna have to climb indoors and speed climb for another year :wavecry:
Ondra must be pissed
A ‘Road to Tokyo ‘ vid of him smashing up his flat would be good.
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you think this will be a single outlier, or reckon the whole olympic cycle will be put back a year?
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Thoughts and prayers for all the athletes who are gonna have to climb indoors and speed climb for another year :wavecry:
Ha ha I wondered about this, imagine a year or two of practising the pointless mundanity that is speed climbing.
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https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/04/fingerboarding_to_replace_speed_climbing_in_tokyo_2020_games-72257
A sensible and proportionate decision I think, absolutely the right thing to do in this, or any other, climate. Should have done it from the start to be honest. Ondra will be fucked though, he never fingerboards!
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A ‘Road to Tokyo ‘ vid of him smashing up his flat would be good.
With "The Long and Winding Road" playing in the background.
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Tomoa Nagasaki is the first Japanese to do the speed climbing wall in under 6 seconds in an official competition. Two runs on 5"88 last weekend
https://planetgrimpe.com/2020/08/26/tomoa-narasaki-devient-le-premier-japonais-a-passer-sous-la-barre-des-6-secondes-en-vitesse/
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Hes really not that far behind the PBs of the qualified speed specialists now.
Fastest time in the combined at the world cup was 5.9 ish and even in the speed event was around 5.6 but most were higher.
I always thought the boulder specialists would be able to get good at speed. I do think Tomoa will need to get top 2 or 3 in speed to have any chance of winning gold as his lead wont be good enough. Ondra will be focusing on getting 1st in lead and boulder and is capable as is Shubert but i dont think he will in boulder. I think Tomoa will get 5th or lower in lead, 4th at best.
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Updated tables with all qualified climbers:
| 1 | GARNBRET | Janja | SLO |
| 2 | NOGUCHI | Akiyo | JPN |
| 3 | COXSEY | Shauna | GBR |
| 4 | MIROSLAW | Aleksandra | POL |
| 5 | NONAKA | Miho | JPN |
| 6 | KLINGLER | Petra | SUI |
| 7 | RABOUTOU | Brooke | USA |
| 8 | PILZ | Jessica | AUT |
| 9 | CHANOURDIE | Julia | FRA |
| 10 | KRAMPL | Mia | SLO |
| 11 | KAPLINA | Iuliia | RUS |
| 12 | CONDIE | Kyra | USA |
| 13 | ROGORA | Laura | ITA |
| 14 | SONG | YiLing | CHN |
| 15 | YIP | Alannah | CAN |
| 16 | JAUBERT | Anouck | FRA |
| 17 | MESHKOVA | Viktoriia | RUS |
| 1 | NARASAKI | Tomoa | JPN |
| 2 | SCHUBERT | Jakob | AUT |
| 3 | KHAIBULLIN | Rishat | KAZ |
| 4 | HARADA | Kai | JPN |
| 5 | MAWEM | Mickael | FRA |
| 6 | MEGOS | Alexander | GER |
| 7 | FOSSALI | Ludovico | ITA |
| 8 | MCCOLL | Sean | CAN |
| 9 | ONDRA | Adam | CZE |
| 10 | PAN | YuFei | CHN |
| 11 | GINÉS LÓPEZ | Alberto | ESP |
| 12 | HOJER | Jan | GER |
| 13 | MAWEM | Bassa | FRA |
| 14 | COLEMAN | Nathaniel | USA |
| 15 | DUFFY | Colin | USA |
| 16 | PICCOLRUAZ | Michael | ITA |
| 17 | RUBTSOV | Aleksei | RUS |
Final three places will be decided at the remaining continental champs:
Asian champs 10-12-20
Oceanian champs 17-12-20
African champs 19-12-20
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UKC report that the Asian continetal championships have been cancelled and the quota places have been awarded to the highest ranked eligible climbers from Hachioji - Jongwon Chon and Chaehyun Seo.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/12/japan_lose_olympic_quota_place_lawsuit_and_asian_championships_cancelled-72660
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Oceania champs will be live streamed here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vzvff9x4zAo&list=PLTWe7hyR21v5y2W71-CqrLIrM-TMvAbwm&ab_channel=SportClimbingAustralia
African champs might be live streamed here but not sure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Nxf2lWwkvU&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=ClimbAfrica2020
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Thanks for the updates and stream links, hoss :).
Looking at the line-ups I am already excited about the Olympic climbers.
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You are welcome.
I am also pretty excited about the Olympics - in general, not just climbing. I even considered buying a TV the other day, I'm not sure laptop screen viewing will cut it!
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Kids eating concrete in the skateboarding was great. My only knowledge of skating is derived from watching the odd YouTube clip and playing Tony Hawk - I was really surprised at how low percentage it was to do a particular grind down a rail at this level. Also, when they were doing the extended run around the park they kept hopping off their boards, doing a little run to pick up some speed, and jumping back on again. Has nobody told them they can hold down A and cruise round indefinitely?
Seriously, great sport if not brutal.
Women's canoe slalom also a good watch.
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https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/mathieu-van-der-poel-blames-removal-of-plank-for-tokyo-olympics-mountain-bike-crash/
Funny how every single other competitor knew the ramp wouldn't be there.
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Tom Pidcock who was on MVP wheel as they hit the jump said he sort of knew MVP was going to fall off.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4foU7LqhI4
at least it wasn't a numpty official walking onto the course
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Interesting news story
BBC News - Why cannabis is still a banned Olympics substance
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-58003743
Why indeed? Especially for a 100m sprinter!
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https://www.givemesport.com/1729889-tokyo-olympics-clare-balding-goes-viral-after-congratulating-team-gb-swimmers-third-leg
even pro athletes can sn**ger like schoolboys