UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: shark on June 20, 2017, 10:14:06 am
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Wasnt sure this qualified as news but Jules Lines has added what sounds like a good new route on North Stack Wall.
http://gogarth.wikifoundry.com/page/north+stack+wall
The Shallow Man ** E7/8 6b
A modern eliminate that is a twin line to The Hollow Man; it is superb, direct and surprisingly independent. Start up The Clown flake for 3m and step right onto a shelf (cam up and left). Pull through the bulges and step left to a shake out and a nest of RP’s. Step right and go directly up the steep wall on sidepulls past a crucial super-rock 1 to gain a good flat edge in the slabbier section above. Mantel onto the hold (crux). Place good gear, step left and go direct up the centre of the wall to reach the left side of a sloping ledge just below the top. This upper section is protected by a sling on the flake-shield and RP1 just above. More physical than The Hollow Man, but not as ‘harrowingly bold’. I feel that it might be a grade harder than Wreath (E6/7). Could possibly be E8 for an onsight but not sure??
Jules Lines with Eve Lancashire 23/05/2017
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No, that's news in my book. Sounds like a great - and quality - route; a significant contribution. I was thinking yesterday, about the apparent demise of quality hard new trad. If someone does something of note and quality, celebrate it :-) Nice one Mr. Lines. Too much of the current debate/consideration of news, is little more than fear of someone else taking attention (hits?) away from those who want to retain the focus of the media. I've always found the genuine enthusiasm of certain operators, the most inspiring - and worth celebrating and sharing. :dance1:
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You must read different news to me then as I still feel it's dominated by trad climbing.