UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: mark20 on May 16, 2016, 10:44:59 pm
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The crag is described in the old Stoney book, with a few easy routes that are now totally lost under vegetation. A vague description on UKC mentions a short sport route on monos which I think is on the compact looking wall further along, on the upper tier. There isn't much else worthwhile looking rock, though there is a right hand finish to this route which avoids the top crux, but is still bold.
This is the wall about 100m after to 50mph signs as you head South from Bradwell. There's room for a car off the road directly below the route, or park in the village and walk along the road.
Unfortunately it's a really awkward to get to the belay on this, a long walk round the side and guess which tree is above the route and ab down through the vegetation. Or if it has been dry you might be able to find a way to scramble up from the side.
I'll buy anyone who does it from the ground an ice cream
Anyway
The blank, black, wall on the East side of the dale. Climb the wall right of the cave past the overhang and move leftwards past a peg, to the base of the vague groove. Go direct to good holds and harrowing mantle move to a rest at 10m. Arrange a RP and skyhook cluster in the thin crack and move leftwards to the diagonal seam, better RPs (hard to place), and a technical crux sequence on small holds. Bolt belay.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7660/26445034383_f81ec64221_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GhRHoF) (https://flic.kr/p/GhRHoF)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7649/26445020743_8f86e4f83d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GhRDkv) (https://flic.kr/p/GhRDkv)
Thanks to POD for the pics
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That looks thin as fook. Good stuff Mark.
Is that near where you can see a tatty fixed rope when driving up the dale?
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Nice one Mark! Sport grade?
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Yeh that was my rope whilst I was working it, like I say it's a long walk and ab to get to the belay otherwise
Guy, it felt about 7b without placing the gear. I've not done much/any hard limestone trad so can only compare to what I know- it would be E7 at Millstone. Though it's clearly quite a lot easier than Randall's E7 at Ilam Rock!
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Nice one,
Just a word of warning, Rowarths from hazelbadge hall (up the road on the same side) are distinctly non caver friendly and have been known to escort folks off their land with shotguns etc.
From all accounts, they are very 'non negotiable'
Surprised you've not had any issues if you've been working/cleaning the route.
Anyhow, nice one. :thumbsup:
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It looks like grit, so not surprising it's caught Mark's eye! Nice one.
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Word is this natural or quarried then? Kinds looks a bit Staden-esque in the photos. Nice work.
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Thanks for that Sam, I had no idea. I'm surprised I didn't have any problems then, especially as I parked by the route. Maybe it would be better to park in the village and walk in (all of 3mins) along the road.
Dave, I think it's quarried, the rock on the other side of the road certainly is, but it's quite compact and not dissimilar to Staden as you say. It's strangely black rock, almost a bit slatey
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Sounds similar to Long Tor Quarry
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Did this just after Mark did it, would like to confirm that it is quality and like Mark said almost like a slate route in terms of the moves on it.
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Nice one,
Just a word of warning, Rowarths from hazelbadge hall (up the road on the same side) are distinctly non caver friendly and have been known to escort folks off their land with shotguns etc.
Thats gotta bump it up to E8
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Nice one - looks ace!! Like the name too :)
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Nice one. Not sure if you noticed the blank wall directly opposite in the other quarry. Was used as pegging practice many years ago.
Surpised the whole place has not been "Gibsonated"
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I did have a quick bash around that quarry but it looked like dangerous macro-choss to me. Must have missed a bit. Could that be the "nice line to the far right lots of mono's! 2 bolts 7 meters ish" mentioned on the UKC logbook page? I will have a gander this weekend