UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: lagerstarfish on December 17, 2015, 09:57:39 am
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Fuck yeah!
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/732/23192423263_c0e244af44_b.jpg)
Was I really the only one? xx
Lovely.
Only 12?
P.S.. Thanks RLS ;D
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when are you starting your own show, Dave?
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Really enjoyed it! Thanks Niall...
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Ah thanks y'all :-)
Stay tunes for more x
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I'm partial to a bit of prog. rock so I like the way you have to listen all the way to the end for the hidden track...
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It was a pleasure to listen to. It seemed a teeny bit wobbly at the start but you soon got into it. Really enjoyed hearing someone talk about something other than climbing with the techno and the martial arts.
I look forward to the next 12. It'll be interesting to see what the difference is between a Gus interview and a Caldwell interview.
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This is my first.... yes FIRST ever podcast I've ever listened too! Other than being gutted I wasn't name dropped into the Staffs guidebook meet at the Wilkes Head, I thoroughly enjoyed it. More so my Grimer Shrine now has audio!!
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Banish the self consciousness, Niall. It's great - the concept and delivery. A shame to hear about struggles with copyright, I hadn't thought of that.
Really enjoyed that tale. I thought it was just me who could be so affected by complete psyche failure -particularly when trying to do trad on a cold, bleak day, on an unflinching, emotionless crag. ALL of those thoughts I've had before: shouldn't we do an easier one; am I a "climber"; do we have to do one more; please let it rain; what if what if what if. Awful when it gets you.
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please let it rain
We were supposed to go up high again and it was the day after the rest day. I still felt fucked from the last climb and fear was beginning to creep through. Luckily the heavens opened that day in Chamonix. It started with a pitter patter on the tin roof. Music to my ears.
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/732/23192423263_c0e244af44_b.jpg)
Was I really the only one? xx
Lovely.
Only 12?
P.S.. Thanks RLS ;D
Wasn't Gus a Westward/TSW tv creation and so only a Devon/Cornwall child would have known him?
Not to mention, he left the screen in the mid-eighties(??)ish.
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Hongkongstuey you get an honourable mention in Episode 1?
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/732/23192423263_c0e244af44_b.jpg)
Wasn't Gus a Westward/TSW tv creation and so only a Devon/Cornwall child would have known him?
Not to mention, he left the screen in the mid-eighties(??)ish.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
...could be ;D
Really enjoyed the tales today. Thanks Grimer.
Listened to it a couple of times, while decorating my bathroom/sanding my eyeballs.
Is climbing the only sport where self doubt is so celebrated! Keep em coming. xxx
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Can we get a Wide Boys interview?
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Hey all, thanks again for the +ve feedback. Let me know if you've any other thoughts. So many peoiple to interview.
Meanwhile, heeeeeeere's Tommy
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/2016/1/5/tommy-caldwell-dawn-wall-yawn-wall
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There is also a RSS feed for Jam Crack (http://niallgrimes.libsyn.com/rss) which is working fine.
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Hey all, thanks again for the +ve feedback. Let me know if you've any other thoughts. So many peoiple to interview.
Meanwhile, heeeeeeere's Tommy
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/2016/1/5/tommy-caldwell-dawn-wall-yawn-wall
Really enjoyed that too (and the first one - haven't listened to the story episode yet).
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Hey all, thanks again for the +ve feedback. Let me know if you've any other thoughts. So many peoiple to interview.
Meanwhile, heeeeeeere's Tommy
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/2016/1/5/tommy-caldwell-dawn-wall-yawn-wall
Great stuff. Both sound like you're enjoying yourselves.
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Really enjoying the podcast, both the interviews and stories. I wish there were more podcasts like this to listen to on my commute. Also more than happy to hear more of your own stories as they are excellent. :2thumbsup:
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I'm partial to a bit of prog. rock so I like the way you have to listen all the way to the end for the hidden track...
Unfortunately for Gus, it was my favourite o the three tracks!
Fantastic so far Grimer, keep it up!
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Once again, many thanks. I enjoy reading the stories, but still, it would be nice to get a variety.
Oh, and re: the prog rock, you do realise that that's the theme from Magnum PI?
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Great stuff, keep it coming! Thanks
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When's the next wadcast due Grimer?
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C U Next Tuesday.
Axially, I think it's the Tuesday after that. I made a balls up recording the interview so gotta work a bit on the sound kwal.
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are you going to read out that story you wrote about getting caught with pr0n by your parents?
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I've just listened to the "You've been Popped" episode. Brilliant. I remember reading it in OTE as an impressionable youth and it's meant I've held Mr Popp in high regard ever since, giving his posts a greater respect on here than most others.....
Looking forward to both the interview episodes and the stories.
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A why thank-ee sir, velly kind of you :-)
Hopefully get the next interview up next week. I think I should have a story from someone else for the next one too.
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Listened to the Caldwell podcast the other evening, which was brilliant! Recognised Nic and I as the smiling folk at the New Barrack Tavern who decided they didn't fancy Kyrgyzstan. Funnily enough we met Beth and Tommy in Estes Park having instead gone to the States as our Plan B. Tommy gave us beta for the quickest approach into the Diamond. They were having a bit of a 'party' and insisted we didn't need to bring any beers as they had it covered. We were skeptical and sure enough when we turned up there was one bottle of Bud each :'( I guess you don't become the world's best trad climber by :alky: !
Keep it up Grimestone!
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Cheers TB, always remember that moment you two came into the pub :-)
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Well done Grimer - Jam Crack is fantastic. You've Been Popped had me laughing out loud.
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Just listened to getting popped, great work grimer . Love it.
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Grassy ass. Someone just sent me a story today for next week's episode too. Very excited about it.
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http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/jcpc-006-the-view-from-dead-horse-point
Chris Schulte reads The View from Dead Horse Point.
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http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/jcpc-006-the-view-from-dead-horse-point
Chris Schulte reads The View from Dead Horse Point.
Listened to this last night whilst training. It was indescribably enjoyable
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This last episode is just beautiful.
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Could an admin use The Jam Crack RSS feed (http://niallgrimes.libsyn.com/rss) to suck these into the Blogpile?
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This last episode is just beautiful.
Sublime isn't it. A lunchtime well spent.
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Is there a way to subscribe to these on android?
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Great stuff Grimer. For the next one could you get Charles-mowgli-barefoot-font-guy to read Bernard Amy's 'The greatest climber in the world' please? Ta.
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Thanks all. Dream come true getting Chris to read that. What a lovely voice. And so cool that Steck and Roper were down with it too.
With regard to android, dunno, what's the crack with it? I will look into how you subscribe by Android.
Will look in to Greatest Climber of all time, although I have another story lined up and am angling for a classic of 1980s UK yarning.
Generally, what sort of stuff are people after?
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Great stuff Grimer. For the next one could you get Charles-mowgli-barefoot-font-guy to read Bernard Amy's 'The greatest climber in the world' please? Ta.
:2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
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Is there a way to subscribe to these on android?
Easiest way is to download one of the podcast players from Google's Play Store; plenty of decent free ones too. In the app you can search and subscribe to any of the thousands of podcast that are out there. Including Enormocast, which I believe was Jam Crack's inspiration.
And good work Grimer. Please keep it up.
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Is there a way to subscribe to these on android?
Easiest way is to download one of the podcast players from Google's Play Store; plenty of decent free ones too. In the app you can search and subscribe to any of the thousands of podcast that are out there. Including Enormocast, which I believe was Jam Crack's inspiration.
And good work Grimer. Please keep it up.
As Doug said it's remarkably easy - I got "Podcast Addict" and just opened the link to grimer's and bingo.
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Generally, what sort of stuff are people after?
I would like to hear Alan Hinkes reading Tony Musselbrook's archived blog posts.
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I was actually thinking it might be that easy, Fultonius, but ta.
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Generally, what sort of stuff are people after?
I really liked some of your short stories you had on UKC a while back, you could read some of those? Be great for listening to when driving.
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OK SA. There are a couple on there already, and I am lining up a few more, but I will definitely read more of my own too. It's fun to do.
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No need for formalities, you may call me Chris. Looking forward to it.
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Generally, what sort of stuff are people after?
More of the same? I like the mix of interviews and stories but I think you were right why you mentioned in one podcast that it was a bit Sheff-centric? Maybe some old school wads? Nick Colton?
I'm saving the most recent one for my drive to Immingham next week.....
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God, there's just so many people to do. And yeah, I wanna keep it old school and new school, as that's what I think climbing is at its best.
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I'd love to hear Martin Crook read his slateheads piece out. One of the best things OTE ever published.
That and the Hinkes/ Musselbrook thing, obvs.
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I'm fishing for something close to that and have a nibble.
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Perrin? - if you can track him down - think he may be in ireland atm??? Not sure what angle you could take, but might be intersting to hear (as opposed to read) a new school popular commentator in conversation with an old school popular commentator.
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I'm saving the most recent one for my drive to Immingham next week.....
At least there will be one pleasant part to your day.
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Yeah I was thinking about JP sam.
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I'd quite like to hear you speak with the other JP too (James Pearson) if possible?
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Paul Mitchell, with poetry please!
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For new school I reckon Varian would be fun if you ask the right questions
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Paul Mitchell, with poetry please!
+1
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Please, please, please get Redhead.
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Hey thanks Niall for the content so far, but could you look at making it available as a podcast for Android devices as this would be perfect listening material in the car. One thing I swore to myself many years ago was that I would never ever ever ever ever ever ever install another copy of F%$*ng itunes on any device I owned ever again!!! (you may be able to detect a hint of bitterness here) ... 8)
Thanks again.
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Just download a podcast app as described above.
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Hey thanks Niall for the content so far, but could you look at making it available as a podcast for Android devices as this would be perfect listening material in the car. One thing I swore to myself many years ago was that I would never ever ever ever ever ever ever install another copy of F%$*ng itunes on any device I owned ever again!!! (you may be able to detect a hint of bitterness here) ... 8)
With you there peanuts.
Though - I can listen on my android phone via the chrome browser, and click the download link.
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Hey thanks Niall for the content so far, but could you look at making it available as a podcast for Android devices as this would be perfect listening material in the car. One thing I swore to myself many years ago was that I would never ever ever ever ever ever ever install another copy of F%$*ng itunes on any device I owned ever again!!! (you may be able to detect a hint of bitterness here) ... 8)
Thanks again.
You can download any of the podcasts here (http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/). Just find the little box for the episode you want and press the download icon. Then play it through your android device using whatever app you would normally use for playing audio files. No need to download any specific podcast app.
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Thanks Sam / Will, I somehow managed to miss the download symbol on the player, all sorted now so please ignore my previous request Niall and keep up the good work.
My views on itunes remain unchanged .... :shit:
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For new school I reckon Varian would be fun if you ask the right questions
"Why aren't there any world class boulderers operating in the UK"? - 1 hr later = Podcast done.
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Dan would be boring as fuck
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I don't mind who we hear from but I would like them to be interesting and have something to say which we haven't heard before. I don't know much about Dan but I can imagine there's lots of interviews with him out there already? I don't care if the interviewee is a complete punter provided that they have a good story to tell.
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Generally, what sort of stuff are people after?
I would like to hear Alan Hinkes reading Tony Musselbrook's archived blog posts.
+1
Or Bonnington reads Dobbin's old blog about the drive to the tor and what the car temps say
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OK SA. There are a couple on there already, and I am lining up a few more, but I will definitely read more of my own too. It's fun to do.
Grimer, at the risk of sounding rather partisan, I'd prefer to hear you reading your own stories - not taking anything away from anyone else, of course.
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Why shucks, the Dom, how kind :-) I will be doing more of my own, but the ones in the offing have me velly excited.
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If you wanted to do the one when you imagine your daughter climbing at Curbar (I think it was?!) I'd be keen for that one.
And just listened to Chris Schulte...man, that cat could read my shopping list and make it sound cool. What a voice.
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It's be awesome to hear you reading about Miles Goldie, rock superstar
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Caff ?
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Dan Honeyman (?)
Miles Gibson
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any thoughts about doing Jam Crack TV Grimer?
Sheffield Live! local TV station are looking for proposals... plenty of Sheff locals to interview about playing on rocks
http://web.sheffieldlive.org/get-involved/
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I loved "You've been Popped" Niall - it was great.
How about Robbie Owen reading that classic piece he wrote for Northern Soul?
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I loved "You've been Popped" Niall - it was great.
Some of it was even true ...
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http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/jcpc-006-the-view-from-dead-horse-point
Chris Schulte reads The View from Dead Horse Point.
Wow......... Made me want to book tickets then and there. As I was stuck in a traffic jam on the M62 I didn't, but it did make the journey loads better.
Keep 'em coming Griner!
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I loved "You've been Popped" Niall - it was great.
Some of it was even true ...
Niall should interview you Andy (seriously)....
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That's an excellent suggestion :goodidea:
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word on the street(s of Buxton) is a certain french female rockstar of the 80s/90s will feature in a future Jam Crack.
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word on the street(s of Buxton) is a certain french female rockstar of the 80s/90s will feature in a future Jam Crack.
If its Isabelle Patissier then she can tell the story about the time we did an E1 down Dovedale together, thus satisfying Ben and Will's request at the same time. It's probably the most exciting thing that has ever happened to me.
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Listened to the latest one last night while insomnic. Quite interesting - didn't know much about her.
It was a shame that a few times Grimer's questions didn't quite get through, as I think the answers would have been interesting.
One bit of (hopefully) constructive criticism is the sound seemed a bit off to me - were the inputs overloading a bit? It sounded similar ot cheap soeakers being played too loud, but this was on my phone with headphones on quite a low setting.
Keep up the good work - what a scoop!
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word on the street(s of Buxton) is a certain french female rockstar of the 80s/90s will feature in a future Jam Crack.
If its Isabelle Patissier then she can tell the story about the time we did an E1 down Dovedale together, thus satisfying Ben and Will's request at the same time. It's probably the most exciting thing that has ever happened to me.
It wasn't, but she did get a mention/slagged off.......
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Cheers Fultonius, and thanks for the feedback.
So, I know very little about sound recording etc. But I'm pretty sure the inputs were not overloading. It might sound lame, but seeing as I know so little, I'm having to accept that it won't sound all that great, but would always be keen to know more.
Sound seems like a very deep knowledge hole to sink in to...
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I'm not knowledgeable in that field either - but surely there's someone on here that is: a) A tech wizz in that area and b) can come round and see what's what.
I'm sure you'd be able to sort out the sound without much difficulty.
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Failing to get the levels matched seems to be a common problem in podcasts. Often the case when I'm driving, with a lot of ambient noise, that I can hear the interviewee but barely hear the questions.
Trainingbeta is a particularly stubborn repeat offender, but by no means the only one.
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new episode up http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/dark-mourne
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A tip for the sound levels grimer would be don't conduct the interviews in the dark
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A tip for the sound levels grimer would be don't conduct the interviews in the dark
You've got it arse about face again, Dense. The dark amplifies the sound because there are fewer photons interfering with all the decibels, so he should be doing it in complete pitch black.
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I knew that I just wanted to appear ignorant ;)
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Just listened. That was the best yet for me and I really enjoyed hearing Sean slip jigging through the Rocky Road to Dublin at the end. Not an easy song to sing that one. Makes me want to get my fiddle out again.
This actually reminds me of my own story.
Waking up in a blind panic one morning I realised that it was now October and I still hadn't arranged anything for my dissertation. I whirled into action and had soon fixed it for me and the then girlfriend to do the work at a field site near Lake Vyrnwy in mid-Wales. It would take a week to collect all the data I needed and we hired a car and set off.
There are two places to stay near Vyrnwy. One is a four star hotel and spa near the village, the other is a dilapidated bunkhouse clinging to the side of the moor at the end of a mile long forestry track, completely isolated from anywhere. The bunkhouse was used by "Steve" the local outdoor instructor who would house his unfortunate customers there during the week. At this time of year it was deserted and I'd booked it for a snip.
After arriving at Vyrnwy and being shown the field site by the local RSPB rep we set off to find the accommodation. The RSPB man had told us that the instructor bloke was a bit "fly-by-night". What does that mean? Is he a bloody vampire?
It was the last week of October and the nights were drawing in. We eventually arrived after dark, wondering how to get in. We needn't have worried; neither of the exterior doors had locks on them. Creeping in, we flicked a switch and a cold fluorescent light dimly lit the space. Everything was cold and uninviting and we completely failed to get the coal fire going. The bunkhouse was a medium sized hut, and with only two bodies to occupy it, it always felt uneasily empty. There was never enough noise to make a place of that size feel inhabited; you always had that feeling like you were passing through somewhere you shouldn't be.
After the first day's fieldwork we returned to the hut and I went straight to the fire to try and get it going. Daisy went to the kitchen to make a pot of tea and came running out into the common room about 10 seconds later.
"Did you touch the kettle?" she asked urgently.
"No", I replied, "what do you mean?"
"The back door is open and the kettle was already on to boil when I went into the kitchen. It just clicked off".
After confirming that she wasn't taking the piss, we both proceeded to wet ourselves. The back door had been left shut and to open it would have required turning the handle, it couldn't have blown open. There was only one track going up to the house through the woods and we had just driven up it, passing nobody on the way. Whoever boiled the kettle must have come on foot, and been startled away when they heard the car approaching. Or were they still here, in the hut?
I paced back into the common room and grabbed the poker from the fireplace. In what I still think is the single bravest act of my life I proceeded to search the house, including shining a torch into the loft space. There was nothing, but this became a ritual that had to be repeated every night before we could even think about settling for the evening. Coming back to the hut every evening was awful. It isn't easy to relax in a place where you don't feel safe and private.
Fast forward a week and it was time to leave. I was so glad to see the back of that shack. As we drove away from Vyrnwy the sun was out for the first time since arriving in Wales. As we neared a town my phone sprung into life, receiving the messages and missed calls that had tried to get through all week to that isolated, unconnected place. A weight lifted from my chest and I realised it was the first time all week that I hadn't felt tense. We laughed and laughed that it was over.
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Wow! Gripper Will.
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I've missed a couple, but the new one with Paul Pritchard is great. (I am a sucker for deep play though) http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/jcpc-010-paul-pritchard-reads-rubble-merchants-slate-heads-and-others
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The bunkhouse was a medium sized hut, and with only two bodies to occupy it, it always felt uneasily empty. There was never enough noise to make a place of that size feel inhabited; you always had that feeling like you were passing through somewhere you shouldn't be.
Only just read this, and I know what you mean. I organised a DAV trip to North Wales a few years ago, staying in the Karabiner Club hut near Llanberis (my old club). I arrived a few days in advance of the others, and you're right. Even though in my case it was a place I knew and had good memories of, you can never quite relax alone in a place that's far too big for you, especially when it's in a remote location. There's always something a bit The Shining about it.
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Just listened to the Glenn Robbins episode and I reckon it one of the best yet. Loads of interesting stuff I didn't know anything about :icon_beerchug:
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Can we please, please have a sticky for this?
I keep missing the episodes - and the thread, when it's on the home page.
I know this is really lazy of me, but I bet there are loads of folk who'll be missing this gold.
:2thumbsup:
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If you subscribe via iTunes you can automatically get it to download new episodes etc.
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John Redhead episode just gone up.
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Just thought I'd do a repimp on Jam Crack. Been a whole bunch of episodes gone up lately. The Mark Leach one has got a lot of love
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/
Me :-)
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Thank you so much for making jamcrack a thing Grimer.
There was a time a few months ago when I was listening to the one with the Belgian-Irish guy whilst walking the pushchair down Abbeydale Road. There's a very seriously funny part to that interview involving a 35 centimetre ruler that had me laughing so hard I couldn't breathe properly. Was almost crippled in hysterics as the cars drove by.
Honestly one of the best laughs I ever had. Great times.
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Oh no no no! Oh no no no!
Hey thanks Murph :-)
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Just been enjoying the Wideboyz episode.
Good work...
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Just got as far as Redhead, been on a splurge, getting through 1 every 2 days or so over the last few weeks. God knows what I'm going to do if I start having to wait for them.
All brilliant, good work Grimer.
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Thanks Grimer, I use these to help me sleep, drifting off to your soft Irish lilt.
Last night my wife woke up and wanted to know why I was crying. I was actually laughing listening to the Adam Ondra exclusive.
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Thanks Grimer, I use these to help me sleep, drifting off to your soft Irish lilt.
I'd be careful. The first hour is an interview, then there's a short gap, then it's 6 hours of Grimer whispering "kill them, kill them all" over and over.
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Irish lilt.
Sounds like a great drink. Guinness and pineapple?
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Irish lilt.
Sounds like a great drink. Guinness and pineapple?
Theres a joke about potato's there somewhere.... ;)
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Just got as far as Redhead, been on a splurge, getting through 1 every 2 days or so over the last few weeks. God knows what I'm going to do if I start having to wait for them.
All brilliant, good work Grimer.
The Redhead episode is one of the best I reckon but I might be slightly biased towards a fellow Hullensian :)
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Hey thanks for the +ve vibes y'all x
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JCPC 027 Joe Healey
it's been said before, but what a thoroughly nice guy
:bow:
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JCPC = Judicial Committee of the Privy Council. Interesting.
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http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/jcpc-028-maddy-cope
new episode
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Just listened to the Joe Healey episode. Bravo to both of you - inspiring and heartwarming…
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http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2018/7/5/jcpc-042-steve-mcclure
New episode online now. Nice little discussion with Steve McClure.
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Really enjoyed that one.
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yo, thanks High and Mike :-)
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Just listened to Nick Bullock reading from his book. It was great. Really well written (and read) interesting stories. May have to buy the book now! I generally prefer the interview style podcast but this one has got be psyched for more of the readings.
Just to ramble on with a bit more appreciation for the Steve McClure one. Think I've read, seen a few things with Steve where he was essentially repeating stories from his book. I was expecting more of the same here but as usual Niall manages to get some different stories or the same stories from a different angle out of his interviewee.
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I've just swallowed hard on my self-promotion drugs and plucked up the courage to write on here.
There's been a bunch more Jam Cracks up lately, and I think they are starting to get good.
Look on here for readings by Paul Pritch (pretty harrowing account of waking up in hospital)
Mina L-J (surprisingly obsessed and excited about multi-year projecting)
Gus and Mark H (dark as you like gritsone story)
Natalie Berry (mellow hour of nice chat)
Jim Herrington (cool stories of some climbing mege legends, and Dolly)
Calvin Torrans (The total don of Irish climbing)
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/
And already recorded waiting to see the light of day are Mick Fowler, Gary Gibson, Michael Duffy, Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon.
Phew. Self-promotion finished, I'm off for a lie down.
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Calvin Torrans (The total don of Irish climbing)
Self-recommending. I shared a campsite in Camp 4 with him in 198...cough. Great tales!
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I've just swallowed hard on my self-promotion drugs and plucked up the courage to write on here.
There's been a bunch more Jam Cracks up lately, and I think they are starting to get good.
Look on here for readings by Paul Pritch (pretty harrowing account of waking up in hospital)
Mina L-J (surprisingly obsessed and excited about multi-year projecting)
Gus and Mark H (dark as you like gritsone story)
Natalie Berry (mellow hour of nice chat)
Jim Herrington (cool stories of some climbing mege legends, and Dolly)
Calvin Torrans (The total don of Irish climbing)
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/
And already recorded waiting to see the light of day are Mick Fowler, Gary Gibson, Michael Duffy, Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon.
Phew. Self-promotion finished, I'm off for a lie down.
Thanks Niall, I've really enjoyed some of the recent ones. Steve Mac was great, and like others have said I was surprised how much I got into the story ones, I'd put these off in favour of the interviews until recently. Nick Bullock & Paul Pritchard were both gripping, and Gus's grit story was bloody dark / good!
Great job and keep 'em coming :2thumbsup:
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Grimer, I vaguely remember you wrote a story about some climbers who found everything really easy, so then gave up?? Dif you put it in an OTE or on UKC?
Listening to do the right thing reminded me of it.
Great stuff recently.
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already recorded waiting to see the light of day are Mick Fowler, Gary Gibson, Michael Duffy, Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon.
:bounce: I could only be more excited if I knew who Michael Duffy is.
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Yea gonna keep the stories going, they aren't so popular but some people really love them.
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Or the guys who microwaved their brains. Not climbing related, but a great tale.
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already recorded waiting to see the light of day are Mick Fowler, Gary Gibson, Michael Duffy, Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon.
:bounce: I could only be more excited if I knew who Michael Duffy is.
Irish boulderer climbed multiple 8Bs. Also recently climbed a harder project. Heard 8c mentioned.
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and a still unpublished chat with Joe Brown!
i'm in the i really like the stories camp
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Yea gonna keep the stories going, they aren't so popular but some people really love them.
+1 for the stories
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Calvin Torrans (The total don of Irish climbing)
Self-recommending. I shared a campsite in Camp 4 with him in 198...cough. Great tales!
That was great. Even enjoyed the ad. break! Could have been double the length. Only a shame you couldn’t get Clare to chip in too.
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Please do your Miles Goldie story that was in an OTE supplement or something.
It totally captured life in Sheffield at the time
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Wasn't listening to Calvin pure music, Duncan. And I know, Clare would have been great, but she seemed pretty insisten.
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I learnt loads from that Calvin Torrans podcast. I’d really like to visit Northern Ireland now. I agree that it could have been twice as long and still interesting, which is not something I’d say about many of the podcasts, even the ones that I enjoy.
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Loved loved loved the Calvin one! Just brill!
Also the Mick Fowler one was great too. Anyone else think that Mick sounds quite a lot like Duncan Critchley??
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Latest one with Dawes and Dixon is absolute gold, Grimer.
Some choice Dawes quotes:
On indoor parkour style bouldering:
"Get it together guys. You're doing all this pumpy pull-up shit, but basically you're still shit."
On sports scientists:
"I don't like sports scientists. They're all wrong."
On modern bouldering:
"The modern boulder problem is an undercling, get a hold, swing your feet, share, swing to a sloper, catch, and then probably jump off because you can't do the mantle"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gfAxYENlmU
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Oh man, when Johnny starts singing the "grip loading algorithms" for various Peak grit crags. :lol:
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Please can this website be renamed "UKNibNibsLookingAtTheirSkin.com?
Cheers
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Johnny seems pretty wound up at the start and obviously had a lot more to unload about the state of modern climbing! So funny when he's like a primary school kid trying his best to stay quiet and let someone else talk.
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My fave is JR.
Grinder - you very much give the impression you don’t know what’s going to happen next in that one :)
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The description “At last! Sport climbing without the safety” is of Adam Smith’s Invisible Hand from the current Millstone guide. Given that Grimer wrote it about Johnny’s route you’d think that one of them would remember it’s origin. :shrug:
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Damn memory is going!!!
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Another good un, this time with Gary Gibson http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/jcpc-055-gary-gibson
4697 new routes and £100k on fixed gear!
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Another good un, this time with Gary Gibson http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/jcpc-055-gary-gibson
4697 new routes and £100k on fixed gear!
I wonder how much he spent on chisels ;)
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Highly enlightening, that one. It’s amazing that while putting up new routes at a rate of >100 PA for 45 years he’s been a weekend warrior with a full time career, done trade union stuff, actively supported a dreadful football team, fished and still found the time, money and psyche to go to gigs. I always assumed that he’d have to be obsessed with new routing to the exclusion of everything else.
Great to hear him gleefully run through a clearly well-practised collection of Dad jokes (or Dad-style jokes, he surely hasn’t raised a family as well?!) for an unsuspecting audience. ;D
Whenever he’s mentioned via things like this reaction seems to be split between fawning praise and full-on derision but having heard this I’m even more sure that the appropriate reaction would be somewhere in the middle and it seems Gary would agree.
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I thought this was one was great. He's funny (he always was. And no, he hasn't had a family) but more than anything, he's very self-aware. I said in a FB post, he's quite a complicated man in many ways, but I think he understands that better than most of us understand ourselves. Gary responded and said he'd worked hard at trying to get to that point, not least through writing his book.
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I thought this was one was great. He's funny (he always was. And no, he hasn't had a family) but more than anything, he's very self-aware. I said in a FB post, he's quite a complicated man in many ways, but I think he understands that better than most of us understand ourselves. Gary responded and said he'd worked hard at trying to get to that point, not least through writing his book.
When are you going under the mic, Andy?
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I think I'm safe, I'm not sure Grimer has the travel budget (also, have no idea why anyone would want to listen to me ramble on about old stuff).
Actually, that should be I think you're all safe.
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I think I'm safe, I'm not sure Grimer has the travel budget (also, have no idea why anyone would want to listen to me ramble on about old stuff).
I think the popularity of the podcast shows that there is an almost insatiable appetite for climbers to listen to other climbers rambling on.
One day you'll have to come back to fulfill some chore or other, and that's when we'll get you.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=182058
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That photo is phenomenal. Whats the context behind it?!
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It accompanied a story Grimer wrote about kidnapping Jerry - a fictional story, obviously.
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Grimer foretells much in this story:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/king_of_the_crag-4032
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Can we have King of the Crag as a story JCPC please?!
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Can we have King of the Crag as a story JCPC please?!
Yes! And the one about wanking that was pulled from UKC
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Can we have King of the Crag as a story JCPC please?!
Fuck it, why not!
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I was really looking forwards to the Birkett podcast because I've always found him to be refreshingly honest in an increasingly corporate climbing world.
So I must say that I was pretty disappointed some of the conversation got edited out. Now it may well be that the original recording is way too offensive, but I think a chance has now been missed to open up an avenue of discussion about the things happening in climbing behind the instagram filters.
It seems to me like if you set out to interview someone and they've got something to say then let them say it.
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I enjoyed it regardless but also thought it should have been included. That said, it doesn't take a genius to work out who was in the crosshairs in this instance anyway!
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I thought it was brilliant (thanks a lot for doing it/them Niall). The grand national/sheep herding/climbing/universal 'let's be having you' bit is going to stay with me.
I will admit to some curiosity about whoever was getting slagged off but it's an especially interesting listen partly because we don't hear a lot from Birkett and partly because it was pretty informal. If 'the producer' thought it needed editing to protect Dave from not being especially media savvy (or for some other reason) he is best placed to judge that. Also, it's pretty easy to make a guess . . .
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When Niall mentioned about the edit, I thought, god this is going to be really frustrating, knowing there is a subtext to which we weren’t to be party to.
As it turns out, the subject of the edit was very obvious and now our imagination has been allowed to run wild, speculating about just how bad it got. I mean, it’s got to be bad if Grimer thought it needed censoring, right?
In short, I’m now not sure what the censorship has actually achieved given, we know who said it, who it was said about and it was very very bad.
Perhaps we have just witnessed a new way to bad mouth people on the internet while steering well clear of libel laws...
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I’ve not listened - did it involve shitting under a route? Or was that some other scandal? 😃
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Personally I don't think the edit detracted, as other have said the subject was pretty clear. And as per usual he's an interesting character which is what really carries it (along with grimer's top notch skills of course!)
It did make me laugh when he was slagging off James for over grading, then in the next breath bigs himself up for sandbagging all his own routes. They're both the wrong grade!
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Who is the subject of his ire / mockery / dissing etc??
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I can only assume that it's Neil Gresham? Could be way off the mark with that.
Another highly speculative theory could be that Grimer felt that the nature of that bit of the interview wouldn't reflect well on him as a BMC employee? Who knows? I'd love to hear it. Whether he's "right" or "wrong" it would be great to hear Birkett's take on modern climbing.
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I just want to make it clear that I think Grimer has done an amazing job with this podcast, its really entertaining and costs nowt, so what's not to like.
I Just hope that it doesn't put people off in future airing their views fully. I suppose it just means we'll end up hearing what people think in a more pc, but less authentic way.
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Agreed, what was in there was brilliant. I expect Dave didn't hold back...
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Funny you all seemed like the Birkett one, because I thought that he generally came across as a bit of a plonk.
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There is a difference between liking the podcast and liking the man.
The podcast was a great insight into a man who’s made and indelible mark on UK climbing.
Yes, there are aspects of his character that I personally don’t particularly warm to but you’ve got to respect his authenticity, drive, and the self-believe that took him to the top of the game.
I’m sure if you employed him to build you a wall he’d not fuck about and you be left with a fine wall.
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There is a difference between liking the podcast and liking the man.
:agree: One of the most entertaining Jam Cracks is the John Redhead one and he comes across as a delusional nutter.
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On reflection, maybe I shouldn't have mentioned the edit, but it was on my mind as I was doing the intro, so I did.
Anyway - reasons - prob the bottom line is that Jam Crack is a thing I do in my spare time, a time I have little enough of, and I just about manage to justify the costs, financially and time wise, against whatever weird personal repayment i get from it. Putting that section out, I believed, would have created so much headache for me that it would have tipped the balance to make doing it no longer worth it. I've had that before, with references to, say, drugs or something. Things where leaving it in would add a tiny bit of 'authenticity' to a few people but would seem really odd to a lot of other people.
And also, get away from a bubble of UKB message boards or a few embittered residents of S8, and people would be thinking, 'what's all this about?'.
There are other reasons too: people caught in the crossfire, there is always more than one side to any story, could I be guilty of slander, etc. Also, I want JCPC to be a positive thing in a shitty world, and slagging the skin of someone, while it is perhaps my favourite passtime, was never what I wanted to result from it. Funny, but not that nice.
It was a shame as it was a great piece of interview, funny as fuck with lots of aspects I hadn't heard before etc.But I thiough the rest of it was brilliant too and that Dave came across so great. The shepherd bit especially. I've listened to it loads myself for a chuckle. But that's it, as I have already burned the original recording so you'll never hear it.
Maybe if I DJ at the Works party again this year I'll close my set with it?
PS, whover referred to my 'producer', thank you, that made me laugh.
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Really interesting podcast, it was great to hear more from Dave about his background and what drives him. It’s nice to hear someone talk openly about competition as a motivating factor. My only complaint was that it felt like you were just getting going and another couple of hours and a few more beers and Doritos and you would have got into the real meat!
Unlike others in here I didn’t come away with the podcast with any idea who the subject of whatever was edited out may have been.
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It was James McHaffie.
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It was a great episode so thanks Grimer. I think you've made the right call. Dave's reminiscences about shepherding as a youngster were magic.
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I also liked the bit of competition as its not talked about much. Theres a fleeting mention in that Set in Stone film, talking about the Dove Crag development by Steve Crowe, Karin Magog, Al Wilson et al and Dave was clearly very pleased to have rolled over there and done everything straight off!
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I just listened to the interview bit rather than the intro, didn't notice any "missing" sections. Was good!
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I loved that Set in Stone film. I think I can even remember being a 17 year old and so unbelievably psyched by it that I took the DVD into my 6th form geography lesson and played excerpts to my bemused classmates (I think it was the end of term and we each had to do a presentation to give the teacher an easy lesson and I'd cooked up some relevance to the syllabus).
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It was James McHaffie.
Sure now, your just makin’ that up now, so you are.
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PS, whover referred to my 'producer', thank you, that made me laugh.
I imagined a bitter row between 'the producer', 'the director', 'the arts director' and a couple of 'production assistants' going on for hours before the 'commissioning editor' and even the 'director of programming' had to intervene.
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Executive director always has the final say.
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There's been a few good ones lately, but I thought Jude Spancken's was particularly important. It should be placed in a glass case in the Foundry with a sign saying "Break Glass in the event of a first-time climber asking about a Lattice training plan". When this happens, if it hasn't already, somebody will get it out and play it as an emergency broadcast, overriding all TVs, radios, and tannoys in the country. Everyone will stop to listen. It will be like a scene from a film where society has collapsed and people are fighting and killing each other in the street. In the middle of all the carnage, a child starts to sing, the adults hear, and they look down at the monsters they have become.
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2021/2/16/jcpc-095-jude-spancken
Also. Since Niall is now doing Zoom interviews, it seems like there's no good reason left to not do an Andy Popp Jam Crack :jab:
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Couldn't agree more Will!
This ranks up there as one of the best ones definitely.
I think she hit the mark on the more lyrical side of climbing, or maybe I think that because I can't stand fingerboarding!
I particularly liked the Jim Pope one and Ryan's...
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Yo, Grimer. Nice one getting past the 100barrier!
I've listened to most of you ramblings, and enjoyed the majority. However, wtf is it with signing off with C.U.N.T. its just so puerile and pointless, and really just leaves me feeling like it's be soured at the last moment. I'm not sure how strong your female listernership, but signing off with a not so subtle reference to female body bits is just, well, shite.
It's not even remotely humorous, you see you next Tuesday.
Otherwise, keep up the great entertainment.
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I've listened to most of you ramblings, and enjoyed the majority. However, wtf is it with signing off with C.U.N.T. its just so puerile and pointless, and really just leaves me feeling like it's be soured at the last moment. I'm not sure how strong your female listernership, but signing off with a not so subtle reference to female body bits is just, well, shite.
It's not even remotely humorous, you see you next Tuesday.
Fair but sanctimonious point.
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I've listened to most of you ramblings, and enjoyed the majority. However, wtf is it with signing off with C.U.N.T. its just so puerile and pointless, and really just leaves me feeling like it's be soured at the last moment. I'm not sure how strong your female listernership, but signing off with a not so subtle reference to female body bits is just, well, shite.
It's not even remotely humorous, you see you next Tuesday.
Fair but sanctimonious point.
Oh, the most :wank: ;D
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Hmmm. Just been put on to this.
See you next Tuesday was something I picked up off Lady Gaga, whom I really like and which I really liked.
It seemed to fit Jam Crack. It seemed sufficiently divorced from the c-word to me so as not to be offensive. And anyway, the podcast is a little sweary. No one has said to me before that it was inappropriate.
However if it offends people i will stop it.
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puerile and pointless
Maybe Grimer could ask around some of his lady friends and see if it bothers them.
I quite like things that are puerile. See you next Tuesday never bothered me in the slightest, but I'm male.
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It's my favourite part - the only reason I listen right to the end . . .
Just asked my wife (40s) & daughter (16) and neither found it offensive. They saw it as a childish reference to a swearword rather than a reference to their genitals. Sample size of 2 of course but there you go.
(I don't care what he says at the end as long as he keeps pumping them out)
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There's an episode where he discusses the sign off. Something like, he heard Lady Gaga using it, thought she was cool and it was funny and decided to copy.
Still, probably time for a change. I'm sure the UKB hive mind could crowd source him a more fitting replacement.
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Hmmm. Just been put on to this.
See you next Tuesday was something I picked up off Lady Gaga, whom I really like and which I really liked.
It seemed to fit Jam Crack. It seemed sufficiently divorced from the c-word to me so as not to be offensive. And anyway, the podcast is a little sweary. No one has said to me before that it was inappropriate.
However if it offends people i will stop it.
And - and I may be mis-remembering here - wasn't Jamcrack originally meant to come out every Tuesday, or every other Tuesday?
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Still, probably time for a change. I'm sure the UKB hive mind could crowd source him a more fitting replacement.
My suggestion would be "There we are then".
p.s. I've got the humour of a 5 year old and see you next tuesday makes me giggle every time.
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Still, probably time for a change. I'm sure the UKB hive mind could crowd source him a more fitting replacement.
My suggestion would be "There we are then".
I see what you did there, swap a vag for a fanny eh? My sister was about 25 and had used twat for most of her life before someone pointed out it was another reference (albeit less directly / well known) to lady bits...
Maybe I'm just sensitive to is as yet another "insider" reference that the Sheffield mafia all giggle about and us poor outsiders are left to feel even more cast away...
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Really? it's a "joke" as old as the hills.
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Really? it's a "joke" as old as the hills.
Oh yeah, I know. I'm not making my point well. I give up. I'll go an sit in the corner.
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"I'm fowl when I enter a cockfight with an owl, solve Carol's conundrum with C, N, T, and one vowel...."
https://youtu.be/vV_mDdLR1PI?t=30
Whole track is a classic as is the album.
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Well, that last one had me giggling. In fact, it was about 3am as I wasn't sleeping well and grimer usually manages to send me to sleep. I was actually worried I was going to wake the lass up.
The outro was a poignant "fuck you" and I appreciate it for that.
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The latest one with Taylor Parsons (formerly CWP) is a blast! http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2021/11/29/jcpc-106-taylor-parsons
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Currently about halfway through, and loving it. Taylor has a lot to say, and it's all interesting so far
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Yep, great pod with Taylor. She's super open and honest, and it helped me understand a complex issue a lot more.
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I've just finished listening to Taylors and really enjoyed it, fascinating to get an insight into a subject I don't understand very well and an interesting person and story. Thanks Grimer.
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Agree with the last comments. Handled it well Niall and asked many of the many of the questions maybe who aren't deep into the subject (like many of us...) would have wanted to ask but maybe wouldn't. Very open an honest. Great stuff!
Found it interesting when she said she was dieting hard for climbing. Struck me as this was partly about "performance" (which she did manage to achieve then despite restriction) , and maybe a bit about "control" which wasn't really discussed. I felt (from my armchair, non trained review...) that this was maybe something about control when control couldn't be achieved in the personal identity sphere.
Good work Grimes. It's worth getting out your comfort zone eh?
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Thanks all x
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That was one of the most powerful interviews I think I've ever listened to. Properly gave me an insight into a world that I had no clue about. Her candidness was quite amazing, and let her talk brilliantly.
If you can persuade her to write a book, I'd definitely be buying it.
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Agree with everything that has been said so far. A brilliant podcast that provide some real insight.
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Currently about halfway through, and loving it. Taylor has a lot to say, and it's all interesting so far
Finished it off today. As insightful and interesting as any I've heard, truly brilliant. I've never heard such an open account of what it's like to be trans, and I gained a great deal of perspective on it all. Can't think of anyone who wouldn't learn a similar amount really.
If you can persuade her to write a book, I'd definitely be buying it.
Couldn't agree more
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If you can persuade her to write a book, I'd definitely be buying it.
:agree: Absolute class Grimer....
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Yep, great pod with Taylor. She's super open and honest, and it helped me understand a complex issue a lot more.
I was saying to someone recently that the issue gets much less complex in some ways as soon you actually know some trans or non-binary people, because you have to go: ah yeah right, these are ordinary human beings trying to get on with their lives, and what they're experiencing is real, even if I don't personally "get" some aspect of it. It stops being an abstract/theoretical debate topic.
Very often you get discussions of "The Transgender Issue" in the media which are completely disconnected from the realities of trans people's lives, or from any sense of trans people as real people (which is why Shon Faye's outstanding book nabs that as its title, because it's deliberately regrounding the conversation in those realities again -- top rec for anyone who wants to learn more, btw, it's amazing, one of the best things I've read this year).
Anyway, what an amazing interview, holy shit. Heart-breaking but I'm so so glad she's got to what sounds like a good place in her life.
Massive props to Taylor for being so open and eloquent, and to Niall for being that rare thing, an interviewer who can listen and respond to what they're hearing rather than just moving on to the next question on the list.
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Just caught up on this one, I needed something to pass the time on another dreary rehab day. I'm not usually one for the human stories and socials issues stuff, but this was brilliant and fascinating. Taylor is really eloquent and open and has a hell of a rollercoaster ride to talk about, and Grimer did a great job of not shying away from the issues and details with a person who was willing to share them (and the part about "not having the.....guts...." raised a real laugh in a dark context).
I think an interview like this does more to explain and encourage empathy with the situation than a thousand twitter rants or a hundred "issue articles" that jab_happy alludes to.
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Niall for being that rare thing, an interviewer who can listen and respond to what they're hearing rather than just moving on to the next question on the list.
Totally.
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The latest one with Dan Varian is a corker, well worth a listen.
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Indeed, and I hope that a) the Jamcrack Nights thing happens in Leeds and b) that all of the Lancashire / Yorkshire / Other Northern Types heads get there if it does.
For anyone old enough to remember the old Ape Index lectures, they were brilliant and the new Jamcrack Nights sounds like it'll be similarly excellent.
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The latest one with Dan Varian is a corker, well worth a listen.
Yeah this was excellent, especially the stuff about Christianbury. Felt it could have done with a lot less about Franco and more on beastmakers, font, Scotland, pushing him on the grading thing (IE if he insists on using Gaskins things as a ceiling for his own stuff, how do they compare with stuff outside the UK). To run out of time in a 2hr + podcast when you've spent a big chunk of it talking about someone else not doing two problems is a shame .
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Agree on all the above. It's the second time I've heard / seen him mention Aidan's crimping method, but still not elaborate.
I like how he mentions his ultimate project was visible from his school and home, sort of like Jeff Clark and Mavericks.
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Loved the one with Dan Varian, really interesting. Please can we have a part 2? Agree with Duma, too much time spent on Franco (albeit it's clearly an important subject and I get why the conversation went there).
Particularly enjoyed hearing more about Bombadil, and what it represented to him. Perfectly named too in the sense of the Tolkien character being an enigma, clearly without meaning and yet simultaneously with all the meaning in the world. Sums up climbing really.
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Tried yesterday to listen to the Franco one, but the background noise was just too distracting.
I hadn't got round to the Varian one yet, so back on that now. So far so good.
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I really struggled with the background noise on Franco's until I started listening on headphones which was much much better.
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I listened on headphones too and didn't mind it much at all. The only parts where it was particularly distracting was when it was loud enough for them to pause and chuckle about whatever chaos was going on near them.
Glad the first half stayed in - pretty awkward sounding but that's entertaining in itself.
Looking forward to JC Nights :2thumbsup:
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Aidan's crimping method
I don't think this is any big secret, from what I understand he crimps stuff with his fingers at a really acute angle, almost using the skin on the vertical plane between end of nail and start of the pad proper. Almost like you would fingernail crimp an edge on the slate or similar. As I understood it training this over many years had made him ridiculously strong on small crimps as he can get right over the top of them and exert maximum force. This might be complete balls but thats what I understood anyway; correction welcome
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at a lower level, my better half also prefer the claw to the crimp. She can pull on holds that I cannot fathom holding, on the other than she cannot hold bigger sized hold very well.
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I have a really high angle to my half crimp and it makes tiny sharp incut edges feel amazing. Sucks on slopey gritstone edges though. I have to force myself to open the angle and drag more. I wonder if Aidan uses it on those or if he drags too?
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Aidan's crimping method
I don't think this is any big secret, from what I understand he crimps stuff with his fingers at a really acute angle, almost using the skin on the vertical plane between end of nail and start of the pad proper. Almost like you would fingernail crimp an edge on the slate or similar.
At Ned's talk about his book at Kendal, he mentioned how Aidan has very little skin on the end of his fingers, after his nail ends. So there isn't much skin to roll off small holds. This, combined with the technique etc, means he's extremely suited to holds that others would struggle on, even with similar finger 'strength'.
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so us fat handed twats have no chance. Thanks for the explanations.
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Dang Chris, and here was me thinking you'd been sitting on an untapped mine of crimping power, and all the unclimbed projects in the NE were quivering at the thought of it....
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more fat in my fingertips than a packet of Tesco own brand pork chipolatas.
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Dan has mentioned some of the stuff aidan does elsewhere, pinky half crimp training etc, means he can half crimp with all 4 fingers at that angle, this must offer alot of strength and stability at higher angles as most people's pinky remains in a drag or isn't very trained at this angle.
Also I would imagine aidan is doing hangboarding at the different 15 degree finger angles Dan sort of mentions in the podcast, so if half crimp was 90 degrees then also 105,120, possibly more idk, would love to know more about this.
But I think Aidans strength isn't just his fingers, look at how he climbs he's always chicken winging (this blatently isn't because he's boxed) which allows him to take advantage of other strengths like his hamstrings etc which I would suggest are strength to weight wise are up there with anyone's
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Tried yesterday to listen to the Franco one, but the background noise was just too distracting.
I hadn't got round to the Varian one yet, so back on that now. So far so good.
Worst one yet (due to sound quality) and gave up trying to listen.
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I found sound fine on Franco's with headphones.
In terms of content, I thought Franco was the perfect antidote to Dan's intense seriousness.
Both compelling listens.
Thanks for putting these things together Grimer.
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I really enjoyed Dan's tales of crag development - heartening stuff on the joy of discovery (plus some bonus Northumberland history). But I'm still bemused by his grading philosophy, even though it was explained repeatedly. So far as I could tell, he is well aware of general, worldwide standards but for his own FAs in the UK, he knowingly misgrades everything because... Gaskins!? Not that it really matters - the legacy is in the quantity of quality problems (and the greasy BM2000s in every doorway), and not a + or - grade here or there.. but it struck me as oddly incoherent and irrational from someone who was otherwise so precise and analytical.
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I really enjoyed Dan's tales of crag development - heartening stuff on the joy of discovery (plus some bonus Northumberland history). But I'm still bemused by his grading philosophy, even though it was explained repeatedly. So far as I could tell, he is well aware of general, worldwide standards but for his own FAs in the UK, he knowingly misgrades everything because... Gaskins!? Not that it really matters - the legacy is in the quantity of quality problems (and the greasy BM2000s in every doorway), and not a + or - grade here or there.. but it struck me as oddly incoherent and irrational from someone who was otherwise so precise and analytical.
My impression is that he basically doesn't care about grades, especially for harder stuff which is basically only relevant to a small handful of people.
It's not necessarily a super logical thing but I don't think that matters so much (as much as grade weenies like me might like to know if he thinks Bombadil is actually 8C).
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I agree with moose about the grading thing. For someone so precise about training etc. it seemed completely illogical to base his grading on someone who has been discredited by pretty much everyone. Its like he can't accept Gaskins is a charlatan or he'll have to regrade half his 1st ascents!?
I'm sure in time a lot of his things will be upgraded. Surely The Rail or Bombadil is 8c? It's great to see Dan is almost under the radar whilst being one of the best in the country. Him claiming to be a hobbyist!
I loved the Franco podcast. Another reminder that for all his flaws he is a character we should treasure in the UK climbing scene. So many people hark back to bygone eras, characters, people with an edge etc. and he's all of these things. So many bits cracked me up from him taking an hour to warm up to him training on a beastmaker (2nd hand of course).
As others have said the two podcasts side by side were just brilliant. There was a bit of shit from each side about the prow but I think they have respect for each other and said as much in the interviews which was good to hear.
Keep up the good work Grimer. Nice one.
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90 first ascents of 8th grade boukder problems. That's something.
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Hi and thanks all. They were both great fun to record, big thumbs up to Dan and Franco.
Also, I think the background noise in Franco's becomes less of an issue as it goes on.
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Also, I think the background noise in Franco's becomes less of an issue as it goes on.
Persevered this morning, and once I got through the initial bits it was pretty good! (Franco needed a pint to loosen up I reckon) :beer2:
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It's not necessarily a super logical thing but I don't think that matters so much (as much as grade weenies like me might like to know if he thinks Bombadil is actually 8C).
Dan's reticence hasn't stopped you upgrading it and The Rail on climbing-history.org I see! ;-)
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I know JamCrack is free Grimer and we're grateful for it but... unsolicited comments are also free.
The twenty five minute preamble. Its hard to skip when i'm cycling to work or the wall and arrive not psyched but, not having got to the content.
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I know JamCrack is free Grimer and we're grateful for it but... unsolicited comments are also free.
The twenty five minute preamble. Its hard to skip when i'm cycling to work or the wall and arrive not psyched but, not having got to the content.
I love the pre-amble!
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It's not necessarily a super logical thing but I don't think that matters so much (as much as grade weenies like me might like to know if he thinks Bombadil is actually 8C).
Dan's reticence hasn't stopped you upgrading it and The Rail on climbing-history.org I see! ;-)
Should probs upgrade crescendo too then on there and then flipnic can go up and the stone grading start to make sense again :worms:
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Dan if you're listening, maybe you feel like you've gone over this before and can't be bothered;
I also thought after the podcast its bizarre that your grading is fixated with somethings that didn't happen nearly twenty years ago. Even with your obvious inspiration, emotional investment, and subsequent let down.
You have climbed most 8b/8b+s in Font and so have your close friends; Ned, Aiden have climbed hard everywhere; you therefore have a concrete valid comparison, consensus, about any problems in the UK that you have also all done a lot of and can grade them. I do like and understand the, 'if it takes 5 goes then x, if it feels this hard then y' system though.
Maybe the Rail and Bombadil are 'only' 8b+ but the way you circled the point has led us all to believe that you think they're harder.
Watching the video of Bombadil I did wonder how it compared to say, Bewilderness? Are things like that graded for height, is there an element of the overall coming into it? I've wondered this about things like the finnish line, are we actually talking about 8a moves but at a great height, rather than 8c moves...?
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It's my party and I'll cry if I want to.
Cry if I want to.
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I like it for all the parts that it is.
Hope the Jam Crack Nights are a success.
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Leeds show is cancelled. Sorry :-(
Sheffield still on.
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Hope the Jam Crack Night is a success
(too far for me either way).
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Leeds show is cancelled. Sorry :-(
Sheffield still on.
That's a shame the Leeds number is cancelled. Me and Veitch are psyched for the sheffield one though, can't wait to bag myself some jam crack swag.
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Sorry for the OT Niall, but for those who've not trawled through Dan's Flickr:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49308851368/in/photolist-2hcRPto-2hcPgwn-2hcREHN-2i8fKBN#
Amazing soundtrack too - "limestone gorge and granite fell"
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I know JamCrack is free Grimer and we're grateful for it but... unsolicited comments are also free.
The twenty five minute preamble. Its hard to skip when i'm cycling to work or the wall and arrive not psyched but, not having got to the content.
I love the pre-amble!
On topic, I like the preamble but tbh would like an easier way of skipping it as it often takes up most of the commute. That said it's def part of what makes it unique, and as someone said the other day, it seems like everyone and their dog has a climbing podcast. JC is one of the few that stand out so maybe I should just enjoy letting it wash over me.
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Not many podcasts have intros like the start of Ep 34 with Molly TS. Thing of beauty.
Keep on Cracking Grimer.
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Leeds show is cancelled. Sorry :-(
Sheffield still on.
Boo
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It's my party and I'll cry if I want to.
Cry if I want to.
I take it back... Once I got past the early annoyance of the "pub ambience" it got better and better, and in the end I was laughing away on the plane to myself....
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You see, that’s the advantage of the shit starts to the shows beach one keeps getting better. L
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Leeds show back on sorry
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cei5_f_D8GA/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=
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Great to hear, will be a good eve regardless of what form it takes :2thumbsup: see you there!
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Re grades and @ cowboyhat and others. i'll do my best to see if i can wrap this sucker up once and for all. any future "whys Dan a bit shit " or "why do people struggle to climb hard in the county once they've done working class, the bitch, blood sport and monks Qs etc can just be redirected here...
basically I don't want my problems regraded until theyre repeated ideally as that seems the most ethical thing to do. i was honestly grading them at the time, its only with hindsight it looks different. There's loads of talent about there are second ascents of old problems every year now. eg Si whelan just did the impressionist after 12 years and its been tried by a lot of good climbers, only 8A but its subtle and punishing on details, if as a communtiy we decide to value subtle moves higher it could be harder but in terms of physcial difficulty 8A is probs kind of fair imo, would be interesting to hear Si's thoughts on that or say Adam watsons repeat of Semantron liedown which i thought was hard but still had a cack wrist on from breaking it so plumped for 8A+, it took Adam a while so maybe it is worth 8B, then again on that one i think shorties will get on with it much better, hardly an exact science this stuff.
In grimers podcast i was simply trying to explain what it was like growing up from say 2008 when i did zerberus (one of the worlds first 8Bs) in the jura and put up serendipity etc but came home to do my dissertation in kentmere and got shutdown on loads from 8A to 8B+ of Si O' and Johns. in 2008 Si O had just finished establishing the only other hard things above 8B+ in the uk aside from John. This is a total fucking shambles reading it back now! what a "sport"
fast forward to 2013 and no one was really that much wiser on the G post Jura-gate until John did his interview thanks to Shark on here who asked some of my questions which swang me off the fence and firmly into the sceptic pile. By this time though im 100ish font 8 FA's on the admin pile from around the UK but only really had monklife and voyager sit for reference in the clear cut 8B+ zone in England (ive done monks but only voyager stand)
. Mike Adams's 8B+s came in 2015 onwards and i think the only other problems to try were Malcs Gutbuster link up from 2008 and Dave Macs Natural method (which i had a really good session on with Dave soon after he did it)
So in 2013 am i going to change my grades because i think johns answers are a bit dodge? No because thats a big/weird call and it doesnt seem that important and tbh nobody really knows for definite what he did and didnt climb, also i dont have loads of uk context for where the 8C threshold is. I still dont have a clue. Back then i'd had a Jura trip in 2010 and almost done gossip which is the only 8C i'd tried up to that point. but i left empty handed and it got more banned hey ho. I was still a G fanboy too so kind of thought of it as not a real hard thing
Fast forward to 2020 and Aidan has got pretty handy and i've got a good local buddy who i've been climbing with in the lakes for 8 years rapidly working his way up the 8's as a teen/ tween. Both him and I have had fruitful trips abroad by then and Aidans mopped up 8Cs in SA and USA. He does loads of hard things in the lakes that summer and it seems very much a sensible time to grade the progress accordingly, as aidan pulled his finger out for a month and smashed loads of new 8B+-8C+ new things in the lakes which need seperated between themselves let alone other older problems. What we did do is discuss it and i think this is probably around the time when most people on here mightve also started to take shadowplay etc less seriously and things like superpowers more seriously. One being done infront of a camera and multiple witnesses on a nice summers day and the other not being successfully pulled on to by the FAist the week after climbing it on his own and described in detail after 4 years of effort as "a series of layaways" despite being 30+ years ahead of its time.
Until that point i dont think anyone in cumbria or northumberland had done a new 8B+ or harder excluding me since malc on monklife in 2003, so 17 years is a bit of a lonely stint up here chaps. Climbing is still very amateur and with so little crossover and activity. I'd done bombadil by then and the rail, crescendo flipnic, marratime blah blah and had somewhere in the region of 180ish 8th grade FA to consider the admin on and TBH i really cant be arsed trying to go back to each one and assess whether i felt good and was on a tear or if i maybe did just use a crap sequence there's too much parallax in the memory to accurately regrade stuff. Hence the grading method i explained in the podcast featuring heavily for public comms. The lack of repeats of the busy venue things several years on for things like crescendo and the rail point towards that i was going ok back then but god i wish my main point that i was trying to make sunk in with a few more people.
Once i realised that grades vary enough problem to problem and area to area body size to hand size. I became much happier just pursuing personal excellence on different rocks and styles of gap be it a hard slab, mantle, crimp fest, compression fest etc the grade doesnt matter, its the clarity of a good challenge and knowing what your capable of when reading rock that ultimately circumnavigates the need for them in bouldering. i train hard around my family and work and try and do my best but im not an athlete. I feel lucky to have found a few things that really inspire me to give something athlete level dedication but i've never been an athlete, ive not had a professional or coached imperative to be excellent and as such i can also afford to be a bit more lax on the shit communication to the public, i do also feel pretty cheated regarding Johns part in the formation of upper 8th grades in the UK, i wish he was a truthful sporting role model and it'd be amazing if he was. But in reality its likely that the hole Malc and moon left as they moved on from hard bouldering development was filled by Tyler (when he was in the uk) Ned Micky P and Peckitt and myself for a bit. Malc famously said there's loads of room in 8B+ regarding dreamtime when he repeated it, i'd like to think i've filled that room nicely over the years with a good amount of rock furniture everyone can get lovely and cosy in there now, and its not so bloody spartan.
Anyway forgive me for not jumping at the chance of valiantly steering northern british hard "grading" to smoother waters. Ned is very much as guilty in some ways in the peak having flashed abroad as hard as he's established problems back here, things in his style like ned zep are likely incredibly different numbers to the real effort required by most climbers it was just a sign of the times.
it makes no sense but its part of the history of upper end bouldering in this country. It used to be a big deal when one or two problems above 8B got put up by a climber in their whole career. Thats like a shit week at the office for the top bods nowadays. They'll all get repeated eventually and stuff always gets regraded correctly, just look at things like The realist in font. votes from 7C+ to 8B+ and its settled down at 8A+ish or Tajine + bleau sacre which have crept up to 8B over the years. Tristan chen flashed l'insoutable in font this winter now that is SUCH a harder flash than elephunk at 8B words cant describe the complexity of flashing both the crimps and the mantle section on that, now its not even news nowadays.
For me the most important part of writing these thing up is trying to communicate the amount of quality rock and challenges in the north of the UK. Hopefully that inspires poeple and they can look past the grades of things maybe being slightly out on one or two things. I do try and get out and keep things fresh for myself and friends up here and nowadays there are actually a bunch of good climbers in the area bouldering 8B-8C+ and i use them as the yardstick and bounce opinions off i'm not stuck in my ways. I think if i somehow found an 8C in the lakes that i selfishly managed to keep aidan off i'd probably give it 8C but a lot has changed since 2020 (most of which puts climbing in perspective)
Honestly i think the level of talent in bouldering is going to skyrocket in the next 20 years and i'd imagine my problems at busier crags will get done lots and settle up or down if they need to, Will mooted flipnic as 8B+ which jack and Dan also complained about so just upgrade it if thats the consensus now! Fat lady went down. swings roundabouts. If you look on flickr theres some shots of Aidan on a simonside proj that we just about got the moves on that is super hard, i tried a proj earlier this year at east yardhope that so far feels like something i'll have to giveaway too but its one of the most unique highball lines i've seen in the UK. So hopefully my problems in all areas will just fade and fall into place as a foundation for other harder stuff to grow off whilst the next gen stuff gets done. the >8B part is more a slight G shaped bump 2005-2019 rather than a current policy. I dont really do it anymore since Aidans problems came along. EG Eagle huntress should be a pretty doable 8B that would compare to say Tajine abroad which is a similar angle and compression based. i'd have likely given it 8A+ in the past as i improved my beta on the session i did it.
Oh and to answer another Q. Highball moves are often a bit easier for the grade than say a lowball but pushing through the fear can be really hard. This is mirrored in font and i think its a fair system as the overall effort experience adds up to the same complexity. the hardest part on bombadil for me was having no highball reserve hence why all my falls are spinning out of control and i don't land on my feet much. Its not something you ever do when headpointing and its definitely a small niche. I wasnt in absolute top shape haven broken my wrist the year before but thats part of what made it all special as anyone coming back from a decent hospital visit injury will know
Anyhoo, best be off, got to go melt myself into a pot of wax.
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Thanks Dan, makes sense, especially the stuff about space in a grade and how different things can be for different sizes/strengths/styles. I do think the "things will settle eventually" approach is a bit hamstrung by peoples egos getting in the way of upgrading stuff though.
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Just get a Bosi / Aiden bandwagon on a mission to do a load of the probs. Between them they can form a consensus.
Thanks for writing this Dan.
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Re grades and @ cowboyhat and others. i'll do my best to see if i can wrap this sucker up once and for all. any future "whys Dan a bit shit " or "why do people struggle to climb hard in the county once they've done working class, the bitch, blood sport and monks Qs etc can just be redirected here...
basically I don't want my problems regraded until theyre repeated ideally as that seems the most ethical thing to do. i was honestly grading them at the time, its only with hindsight it looks different. There's loads of talent about there are second ascents of old problems every year now. eg Si whelan just did the impressionist after 12 years and its been tried by a lot of good climbers, only 8A but its subtle and punishing on details, if as a communtiy we decide to value subtle moves higher it could be harder but in terms of physcial difficulty 8A is probs kind of fair imo, would be interesting to hear Si's thoughts on that or say Adam watsons repeat of Semantron liedown which i thought was hard but still had a cack wrist on from breaking it so plumped for 8A+, it took Adam a while so maybe it is worth 8B, then again on that one i think shorties will get on with it much better, hardly an exact science this stuff.
In grimers podcast i was simply trying to explain what it was like growing up from say 2008 when i did zerberus (one of the worlds first 8Bs) in the jura and put up serendipity etc but came home to do my dissertation in kentmere and got shutdown on loads from 8A to 8B+ of Si O' and Johns. in 2008 Si O had just finished establishing the only other hard things above 8B+ in the uk aside from John. This is a total fucking shambles reading it back now! what a "sport"
fast forward to 2013 and no one was really that much wiser on the G post Jura-gate until John did his interview thanks to Shark on here who asked some of my questions which swang me off the fence and firmly into the sceptic pile. By this time though im 100ish font 8 FA's on the admin pile from around the UK but only really had monklife and voyager sit for reference in the clear cut 8B+ zone in England (ive done monks but only voyager stand)
. Mike Adams's 8B+s came in 2015 onwards and i think the only other problems to try were Malcs Gutbuster link up from 2008 and Dave Macs Natural method (which i had a really good session on with Dave soon after he did it)
So in 2013 am i going to change my grades because i think johns answers are a bit dodge? No because thats a big/weird call and it doesnt seem that important and tbh nobody really knows for definite what he did and didnt climb, also i dont have loads of uk context for where the 8C threshold is. I still dont have a clue. Back then i'd had a Jura trip in 2010 and almost done gossip which is the only 8C i'd tried up to that point. but i left empty handed and it got more banned hey ho. I was still a G fanboy too so kind of thought of it as not a real hard thing
Fast forward to 2020 and Aidan has got pretty handy and i've got a good local buddy who i've been climbing with in the lakes for 8 years rapidly working his way up the 8's as a teen/ tween. Both him and I have had fruitful trips abroad by then and Aidans mopped up 8Cs in SA and USA. He does loads of hard things in the lakes that summer and it seems very much a sensible time to grade the progress accordingly, as aidan pulled his finger out for a month and smashed loads of new 8B+-8C+ new things in the lakes which need seperated between themselves let alone other older problems. What we did do is discuss it and i think this is probably around the time when most people on here mightve also started to take shadowplay etc less seriously and things like superpowers more seriously. One being done infront of a camera and multiple witnesses on a nice summers day and the other not being successfully pulled on to by the FAist the week after climbing it on his own and described in detail after 4 years of effort as "a series of layaways" despite being 30+ years ahead of its time.
Until that point i dont think anyone in cumbria or northumberland had done a new 8B+ or harder excluding me since malc on monklife in 2003, so 17 years is a bit of a lonely stint up here chaps. Climbing is still very amateur and with so little crossover and activity. I'd done bombadil by then and the rail, crescendo flipnic, marratime blah blah and had somewhere in the region of 180ish 8th grade FA to consider the admin on and TBH i really cant be arsed trying to go back to each one and assess whether i felt good and was on a tear or if i maybe did just use a crap sequence there's too much parallax in the memory to accurately regrade stuff. Hence the grading method i explained in the podcast featuring heavily for public comms. The lack of repeats of the busy venue things several years on for things like crescendo and the rail point towards that i was going ok back then but god i wish my main point that i was trying to make sunk in with a few more people.
Once i realised that grades vary enough problem to problem and area to area body size to hand size. I became much happier just pursuing personal excellence on different rocks and styles of gap be it a hard slab, mantle, crimp fest, compression fest etc the grade doesnt matter, its the clarity of a good challenge and knowing what your capable of when reading rock that ultimately circumnavigates the need for them in bouldering. i train hard around my family and work and try and do my best but im not an athlete. I feel lucky to have found a few things that really inspire me to give something athlete level dedication but i've never been an athlete, ive not had a professional or coached imperative to be excellent and as such i can also afford to be a bit more lax on the shit communication to the public, i do also feel pretty cheated regarding Johns part in the formation of upper 8th grades in the UK, i wish he was a truthful sporting role model and it'd be amazing if he was. But in reality its likely that the hole Malc and moon left as they moved on from hard bouldering development was filled by Tyler (when he was in the uk) Ned Micky P and Peckitt and myself for a bit. Malc famously said there's loads of room in 8B+ regarding dreamtime when he repeated it, i'd like to think i've filled that room nicely over the years with a good amount of rock furniture everyone can get lovely and cosy in there now, and its not so bloody spartan.
Anyway forgive me for not jumping at the chance of valiantly steering northern british hard "grading" to smoother waters. Ned is very much as guilty in some ways in the peak having flashed abroad as hard as he's established problems back here, things in his style like ned zep are likely incredibly different numbers to the real effort required by most climbers it was just a sign of the times.
it makes no sense but its part of the history of upper end bouldering in this country. It used to be a big deal when one or two problems above 8B got put up by a climber in their whole career. Thats like a shit week at the office for the top bods nowadays. They'll all get repeated eventually and stuff always gets regraded correctly, just look at things like The realist in font. votes from 7C+ to 8B+ and its settled down at 8A+ish or Tajine + bleau sacre which have crept up to 8B over the years. Tristan chen flashed l'insoutable in font this winter now that is SUCH a harder flash than elephunk at 8B words cant describe the complexity of flashing both the crimps and the mantle section on that, now its not even news nowadays.
For me the most important part of writing these thing up is trying to communicate the amount of quality rock and challenges in the north of the UK. Hopefully that inspires poeple and they can look past the grades of things maybe being slightly out on one or two things. I do try and get out and keep things fresh for myself and friends up here and nowadays there are actually a bunch of good climbers in the area bouldering 8B-8C+ and i use them as the yardstick and bounce opinions off i'm not stuck in my ways. I think if i somehow found an 8C in the lakes that i selfishly managed to keep aidan off i'd probably give it 8C but a lot has changed since 2020 (most of which puts climbing in perspective)
Honestly i think the level of talent in bouldering is going to skyrocket in the next 20 years and i'd imagine my problems at busier crags will get done lots and settle up or down if they need to, Will mooted flipnic as 8B+ which jack and Dan also complained about so just upgrade it if thats the consensus now! Fat lady went down. swings roundabouts. If you look on flickr theres some shots of Aidan on a simonside proj that we just about got the moves on that is super hard, i tried a proj earlier this year at east yardhope that so far feels like something i'll have to giveaway too but its one of the most unique highball lines i've seen in the UK. So hopefully my problems in all areas will just fade and fall into place as a foundation for other harder stuff to grow off whilst the next gen stuff gets done. the >8B part is more a slight G shaped bump 2005-2019 rather than a current policy. I dont really do it anymore since Aidans problems came along. EG Eagle huntress should be a pretty doable 8B that would compare to say Tajine abroad which is a similar angle and compression based. i'd have likely given it 8A+ in the past as i improved my beta on the session i did it.
Oh and to answer another Q. Highball moves are often a bit easier for the grade than say a lowball but pushing through the fear can be really hard. This is mirrored in font and i think its a fair system as the overall effort experience adds up to the same complexity. the hardest part on bombadil for me was having no highball reserve hence why all my falls are spinning out of control and i don't land on my feet much. Its not something you ever do when headpointing and its definitely a small niche. I wasnt in absolute top shape haven broken my wrist the year before but thats part of what made it all special as anyone coming back from a decent hospital visit injury will know
Anyhoo, best be off, got to go melt myself into a pot of wax.
There you go remus, just stick that in the grade column for all of Dan's problems on climbing-history.org :2thumbsup:
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Just going to have to go and get to 8C and try em all myself I guess! Right off to the Beastmaker
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Is all your new stuff written up anywhere, Dan? There's a list on Climbing History but it's quite slim. If a young try-hard was to want to go and try all your 8s, where would they find the info? Or is it one of those "if you're good enough then you already know" sort of things?
I can't say that I've looked for it as it's out of my geographical range (not to mention league), but I've got visions of acres and acres of rock in Kielder that's only written up in your own head. A shame if that legacy was lost in the event you get knocked down by a Tesla.
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Nice one Dan, appreciate you taking the time to write down your thoughts. Good to know the grades you've given to stuff were your honest opinions at the time (I got a different impression from the podcast, glad to be corrected).
I guess you're probably not that bothered but I've put Bombadil (https://climbing-history.org/climb/131/bombadil) and The Rail (https://climbing-history.org/climb/130/the-rail) back to 8B+ on climbing-history.org.
Now, back to scrolling through your flickr for more gems like that Bombadil vid.
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Enjoyed the latest one with our very own Doylo99, cheers both. Sometimes it makes a nice change to hear from 'one of us' rather than a pro, going through the same challenges of work, injuries, parenting etc. Obviously a lifer, can really relate to that, and the passion shone through.
Gutting to hear about the injuries, sounds brutal. Best of luck for the recovery, hope you can mend up and get back to climbing again.
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I really enjoyed this one. Absolute legend.
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I liked hearing all the stuff that didn't make it into West Coast Gimps etc. And reminders of Doylo's early YouTube work. This is my favourite:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdxWHW1hagc
I've seen it before but I couldn't refind the one of the old man saying he'd had anal sex in the Cave though :(
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Great to hear from the Dudno Deviant, quality.
I've seen it before but I couldn't refind the one of the old man saying he'd had anal sex in the Cave though :(
Its at the end of this:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9KfE0hOcSo
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Nice one. I’d rather be a punter than a cyclist…
My throat had a shocker that day, terrible timing. Completely lost my voice an hour later and didn’t come back for 1.5 days which wasn’t all bad. Goddam furballs.
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Great to hear from the Dudno Deviant, quality.
I've seen it before but I couldn't refind the one of the old man saying he'd had anal sex in the Cave though :(
Its at the end of this:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9KfE0hOcSo
I thought I'd watch just the end bit but ended up watching it all. What a triumph of a film.
The old boy clip isn't actually the one I remember. I was thinking of a clip of an old boy rambling through a car window. Never mind, just me getting my Orme Oddities mixed up.
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I did see the OldBoy from that vid again and chatted to Him through the car window trying to get something Handsome out of Him but didn’t get anywhere. You can’t artificially prise out such genius , it’s spontaneous and organic. There have been others ..
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I was reluctant to listen to the Dave Bowes one, but actually found his story fascinating as I knew nothing about him. Good Job Grimey.
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Thanks Chris, glad you liked it :-)
"Grimey"? I beg your pardon?
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sorry, obscure reference to Frank Grimes character from the Simpsons.
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i know it
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I thought the latest two episodes deserved a bump. For me they are the best yet ( closely followed by Gus reading the Right Thing)
They are essential listening for anyone with even a passing interest in Yosemite climbing and the various scenes which have evolved around it. They feature Dean Fidelman talking about the stone masters and one of the leading stone monkeys Dean Potter. Dean (Fidelman) is literally a cross between the pied piper and a tribal elder/shaman when it comes to the valley’s scenes. Not only is he an amazing storyteller, he’s incredibly insightful and real. I wish there were more people talking and writing about climbing and the community around it in the way that Dean does. It’s much more about the soul and the characters rather than the moves and the numbers.
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:agree:
He's an incredible character, and just the right nudges from Grimer to keep it going in an interesting direction.
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It’s much more about the soul and the characters rather than the moves and the numbers.
Plus you get namechecked :)
Loving it.
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Just finished these today and was about to post about them...Jam Crack at its best, a brilliant storyteller telling some beautiful stories. It would be easy as an interviewer to keep interrupting and asking questions (as too many do), Grimer does a great job at letter Dean get into his flow. Even if you don't know who Dean is or know much about the Yosemite scene you'll have a great time regardless.
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The Dean Fidelman episodes have got to be among the very best. An incredible raconteur. It made me think that something essential has been stripped out of modern climbing.
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Thanks all, it was beautiful to chat with Dean. Glad you enjoyed too x
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It made me think that something essential has been stripped out of modern climbing.
It's a common refrain but Im not sure how much truth there is to it. I seem to bump in to plenty of great characters, and Im sure their stories will grow in the telling so future generations will look back with similarly rose tinted specs.
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It made me think that something essential has been stripped out of modern climbing.
It's a common refrain but Im not sure how much truth there is to it. I seem to bump in to plenty of great characters, and Im sure their stories will grow in the telling so future generations will look back with similarly rose tinted specs.
That and Dean Fidelman has in spades that uniquely American mastery of speaking in bons mots!
Niall says it in the intro about that era - there's real magic, but at the same time there's a lot of good PR...
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Think Grimer has said this before in a preamble once but its true, common trait of the best jam crackers for me is talking overwhelmingly about other people. Loved Dean's, did them both in a single hit
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Two different cracks recently, Ondra and Pretty, new and old, pro and am. Both full of keen. Pretty reckoned he was scratching by on 3.5k in 2017, climbing most days!
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Were you seeing the Zippy episode? Can’t see it on Spotify or the podcast app?
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Oh that’s odd, Spotify Ep36, Aug 2017.
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Ah. I think I just read the 2 new jam crack’s recently and thought they were both recent :chair:
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I've just seen that there's a new episode out and Niall has snared the darkest of horses, Didier Berthod. Great work, will look forward to listening to that one when I get a chance!
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I’ve been knee deep in these for a few weeks. If you’re listening grimer, nice work.
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One of the best episodes he's done, bloody brilliant!
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One of the best episodes he's done, bloody brilliant!
I'm partway through, excellent so far :popcorn:
On the question of favourite things Niall had written, 2 immediately jump to mind for me - the Dean Potter 1 sheet of toilet paper story, and kidnapping Ben & Jerry.
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Looking forward to the Didier Berthod interview a lot.
Was turned off the Burgess episodes though. Too many references to casual criminality, almost to the point of glorifying theft and violence. Maybe there’s more to the stories, but I feel for the Cham bar owner whose business got ransacked by them, or the person whose car got nicked just so they could drive somewhere to go climbing.
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Looking forward to the Didier Berthod interview a lot.
Was turned off the Burgess episodes though. Too many references to casual criminality, almost to the point of glorifying theft and violence. Maybe there’s more to the stories, but I feel for the Cham bar owner whose business got ransacked by them, or the person whose car got nicked just so they could drive somewhere to go climbing.
It was really interesting but I have to agree, its pretty grim how proud he seemed about some awful stuff. Proper neds.
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Looking forward to the Didier Berthod interview a lot.
Was turned off the Burgess episodes though. Too many references to casual criminality, almost to the point of glorifying theft and violence. Maybe there’s more to the stories, but I feel for the Cham bar owner whose business got ransacked by them, or the person whose car got nicked just so they could drive somewhere to go climbing.
I agree. The stories of shop lifting from climbers of that generation have never sat well with me. I'm now intrigued by what you make of the the Didier Berthod interview now though, considering he abandoned his pregnant girlfriend to become a monk.
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Had a listen to the Burgess episode last night, Neds indeed! The Didier interview felt pretty different to me, he didn't say it explicitly but I got the impression he has some remorse for how he acted with his partner and daughter. It sounds like he has also gone to some serious effort to reconcile with them.
Also worth noting that Niall's recently started a patreon. Good value for the entertainment levels provided imo! https://www.patreon.com/m/1882217/posts
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Has anyone listened to the Leo Houlding double wammy? Enjoyable. Some great stories. I thought it was quite different to a lot of episodes in that Grimer didn;t say much! Maybe that is because a lot of Leo's stories are fairly well rehearsed (he does that for a living after all) so Grimer just let him get on with it. But I couldn't help but feel you occasionally sounded a bit bored Grimer!!
I like the two episode format though.
I really enjoyed the Didier Berthod one. Had similar thoughts as others about him ditching his partner/daughter, and was amazed with the twist at the end!!!! Also fascinating (after a child of being forced to be a Catholic)) to hear him talk about his changing views of the religion, and eventually coming to the researched conclusion that Jesus was an entirely fictional character.
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Hi Ged thanks for the feedback.
Funny observations. Interviews are all different. There are some that are fully like a conversation between two people and others more one-sided.
One of the reasons I enjoy doing JC is cos the chats aren’t like any other chats I have. And one reason is that there’s an unwritten understanding that it’s all about the guest. This can result in, perhaps like this one, the guest telling their stories and not needing much prompting.
Maybe that does make the me character less engaged so am engaging through listening. So I wasn’t bored just subliminally encountered.
But the funny this was I had a listen to it to check the recording and REALLY enjoyed it. Then listened again. Which is very unusual
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Maybe sounding bored was an exaggeration! I'm just not used to such a 9ne sided conversation, and there's only so much interested sounding "mmmmm"s that you can do.
Another cracker though. Thanks.
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You should see if Antoine LeMenestrel would talk to you Grimer. Or perhaps get him and Johny in a room to interview each other.
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I really enjoyed the Leo ones, some wild stories and characters.
I'm impressed by Niall as an interviewer and think he generally does a really good job of it - letting the guest tell their tales without needing to make it about him by talking too much or asking self-important questions, and also for simply asking 'what do you mean?' when someone is vague. I'd imagine that can feel a bit awkward to do and in a regular conversation you may just let them roll on without clarifying.
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Thanks Luke :)
I generally try not to interrupt too much.
I am conscious of how stories can lose their life of retold too much but despite me now involving myself in Leo’s stories I didn’t find them oversold and lifeless by any means.
The day before Leo I did Chris B. I listened to a few interviews to learn more and noticed he would retell stories very similarly. Very understandably - I shudder to think the number of interviews he has done or words he has written. But in the interview with him I was very interrupty. This was to try and jar the narrative a bit.
He probably thought I was a bit rude :-)
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Thanks Luke :)
I generally try not to interrupt too much.
I am conscious of how stories can lose their life of retold too much but despite me now involving myself in Leo’s stories I didn’t find them oversold and lifeless by any means.
The day before Leo I did Chris B. I listened to a few interviews to learn more and noticed he would retell stories very similarly. Very understandably - I shudder to think the number of interviews he has done or words he has written. But in the interview with him I was very interrupty. This was to try and jar the narrative a bit.
He probably thought I was a bit rude :-)
....and for our younger readers could you explain who Chris B is.....?
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Chrisie Bonners to his mates https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/11/20/jcpc-141-chris-bonington
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Chrisie Bonners to his mates https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/11/20/jcpc-141-chris-bonington
Aye, sorry Remus, I wasn't being serious...but I suppose I was being a dick :chair:
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Chris B says hi
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From The Ogre..
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Can anyone remember which has the grunty 'Adam Ondra interview'? Not the real Adam Ondra interview.
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Looking forward to the Didier Berthod interview a lot.
Was turned off the Burgess episodes though. Too many references to casual criminality, almost to the point of glorifying theft and violence. Maybe there’s more to the stories, but I feel for the Cham bar owner whose business got ransacked by them, or the person whose car got nicked just so they could drive somewhere to go climbing.
I've given the above some thought. I've not listened to this podcast but I did meet (Adrian?) one of the two in Indian Creek. In person his tales were hilarious and his charisma and the copious amount I'd drunk might have smoothed over any qualms about the consequences of their actions on others.
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I think you need to just accept it was a different time. Casual football violence was a common thing, everyone had some sort of scam or deal going on, and I am sure I've heard mention of many of the dole climbers who weren't opposed to a bit of light shoplifting from supermarkets and climbing shops.
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Can anyone remember which has the grunty 'Adam Ondra interview'? Not the real Adam Ondra interview.
Same episode!
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the moral compass of ukb has become very strange....
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Forgot to take deviation into account.
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Next Lattice YouTube video: 5 techniques you can use TODAY to improve your shoplifting skills