UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: william buck on July 27, 2015, 05:09:06 pm
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Anyone know anything about any recent developments? Saw something on (Doylo's?) instagram that Ty Landman had done something new somewhere at around v12, presumably sit to 'landman project' listed on UKC? Also saw a vid on youtube (by Huffy) that had a couple of harder things that I didnt recognise, namely before Ava arrives (anyone know if this is rulesy or not?) and Tension set, anyone know where these are and care to share? I'm down here for a week and keen the check them out.
Cheers
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKF8mG6sXi0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKF8mG6sXi0)
The thing Ty did was an old roof project in the boulder field. That's all i know.
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Tyler's thing is in a big roof near Hermit's hole. You can identify it by the huge amount of sika holding a prominent block on.
Its the same block as 'Work Shy' in Huffy's Vid.
Tension Set is on a chossy looking boulder just seawards and west of the nice tree boulder. One hard move, and its very hard.
Ava is a low version of a 7A+ so it will be rulesy (ie. go left on the minging crimps then head up into Coronal Mass Ejection).
The new guide is out now if you can spare £30
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Nice to see interest in the cuttings. Tension set is two hard moves. A right toe hook makes it feel possible. The holds are all solid and there is a sitter which remains undone (at least 8b).
Before Ava arrives is v.gymnastic in the right leg. The holds are all good. We initially tried it without the heel but its so hard, we later discovered the heel which led to the ascent. Theres no easier way to climb along that line so no complicated rules. Without the heel is at least a grade harder.
Other hard lines worth doing are my chemical romance (8a) which needs a few pads, the new stuff at portland bill 7a-8a+ all independent lines on solid rock but tidal and need a wind to dry out. Will try and make a vid of the bill sometime.
Pm me if you need any more info but like three nine suggests the guide is out now and is def worth investing in.
Many first ascents still to go here.
Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk
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Oh and tys line is hard. He gave it 8a+ and its really shouldery. Roll over with the right hand to take the same hold i use on workshy then lhold the swing to the juggy crimp (crux)
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Nice one, had a bit of a rummage around today. Got a good spanking on a few things (in my defence it was pretty sweaty out today) but definitely a decent circuit of hard problems down there now. Would be ace to see some of the stuff on the bill, didn't even know there was anything there. Cheers for the info guys
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Might be of interest to some, that Huffy has done another hard FA on Portland at the new Cuttings. Left hand start to Guy Fawkes called Treason:
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CBoyOHwjj-a/?igshid=xmlnym5cycq6
Not graded yet, I believe because the conditions presently might make it seem harder then it is. I’ve looked at the left hand crimp though and it makes the tiny crimps on Guy Fawkes look like jugs.
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I've just come across the Bed Pan Alley section of Longstone Ope on UKC and it looks like some new stuff has been done there recently.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/longstone_ope-21984/the_little_game-595910
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/longstone_ope-21984/endgame-580199
Anyone got any photos or videos in lieu of a topo?
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I've just come across the Bed Pan Alley section of Longstone Ope on UKC and it looks like some new stuff has been done there recently.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/longstone_ope-21984/the_little_game-595910
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/longstone_ope-21984/endgame-580199
Anyone got any photos or videos in lieu of a topo?
I thought there were some photos with lines marked on somewhere on ukc, although I don’t know whether they’re old photos I.e. stuff in the guide already
Also, a few things in Drew’s posts - https://www.instagram.com/dr3wish_/ - have a look at those and then maybe have a nose through the people tagged in them, I’ve definitely seen a few other pics too.
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Thanks! Good shout, there's a video of the wall on Drew's instagram. Enough to see what it looks like at least.
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Thanks! Good shout, there's a video of the wall on Drew's instagram. Enough to see what it looks like at least.
There's actually a few more videos here:
https://youtube.com/channel/UCln1cD3Z5DuzXkpX95ybKDA
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anyone know what the sit start to the left of v for Vendetta is? doesn't seem to be marked on ukb, felt 7b+ ish
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Little Portland update…
The Fibonacci Sequence has been repeated by Huffy. I don’t know the full history, but broken holds increased the grade significantly with a supposed Gaskins repeat. Huffy didn’t suggest a grade, but it’s been repeated by Adam Smith who has added a sit. The sit apparently doesn’t add much to the overall difficulty and he has suggested 8A+ for this.
Before Ava arrives is v.gymnastic in the right leg. The holds are all good. We initially tried it without the heel but its so hard, we later discovered the heel which led to the ascent. Theres no easier way to climb along that line so no complicated rules. Without the heel is at least a grade harder.
Adam Smith has also climbed the problem mentioned above, the low line of Before Ava Arrives without the high heel. He has called this Ava’s Arrived at 8B.
Some other gaps and variants in the 7C+ range, mostly on Adam’s Instagram!