UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Nike Air on December 11, 2012, 12:20:13 am
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This climbs the wall to the right of Tender Homecoming. Tacking up small crimps to an unhelpful sloper and bust a move for the top. Soloed above mats after practice. Landing much worse than tender h.
vid to follow.
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Wonderful effort (as always) Jordan, good to see the new routes still coming. :) Didn't Gibb do an E6 at Eastby called Time and Tide?
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Cheers Nige, not sure about the eastby route. Might have to call it Moves like Jagger.......
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Good effort, that landing is truly terrible. You could probably flatten in out with 743 mats but it'd still be dodgy!
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Photo here
http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/bouldering/time-and-tide/ (http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/bouldering/time-and-tide/)
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Cheers Nige, not sure about the eastby route. Might have to call it Moves like Jagger.......
Also an album name by popular NZ 80s pop combo Split Enz and on by less popular 80s songstress Basia.
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Presumably originating from "time and tide wait for no man", often attributed to Chaucer.
Well done Jordan, more to come?
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Looks great Jordan, shame about the shocking landing keeping it firmly in route territory! I seem to remember there's holds on the wall to the left of Tender Homecomings too?
(http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Time-and-Tide-E7-7a-Brimham-Rocks-topo-682x1024.jpg)
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Another great effort Jordan. That landing looks atrocious. Did you really manage to make it "only" E7 with pads (with the crux being at the top)? Doesn't look as if that would be possible.
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Does tender homecoming get done much. I saw Nick on it years ago and it looked amazing.
Seeing the picture it looks like a classic highball these days, or is that just the picture making it look shorter than i remember.
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It could be highballed I reckon but it's very very high still. That picture does make it look much shorter than it is.
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Presumably originating from "time and tide wait for no man", often attributed to Chaucer.
You reckon?
Call that a landing? Is the pad there as a token gesture? Makes any injury long term rather than permanent?
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Nice find! Resembles a miniture widdop wall with the the ripples. I was tricked by the photo at first, thinking the arete looked a bit like a larger version of Lepton at Curbar, but looking at the big moon pad not looking big has changed my mind.
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Skills Jordan, the season is shaping up nicely :great:
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thanks guys, yea it does have a look a widdop wall about it. Alex Messenger said the same thing when we were there.
We got six mats underneath and Sutty worked his magic and made an inspiring platform(that photo is from the weekend before when we were working it).
Its pretty safe to be honest or would not have done it, someone may wish to do it without pads which is cool. Also someone could do it with more. All I can say is the moves are wicked and was good to salvage something from such a random weather day!
Yes there is more to come, Sutty says there are a further 47 more to go off his list!!!! :bounce:
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Come on Sutty, get the video up!
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Well done, Jordan! Landing is the stuff of nightmares!
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https://vimeo.com/55602591
looks small but hey ho..
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Jordan Buys, Time and Tide E7 7a / highball 7c on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/55602591)
sweet!
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Managed to repeat this today above a sea of foam and spotters. 2nd ascent?
Great climbing!, you would have to be mental to try without pads.
Nice one Jordan!
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Yay nice one. Glad it got a repeat so quickly. Did u end up doing it the same way as me or could u keep your feet a bit lower on the edges for the final move?
Doing it without pads could easily end up being like a scene from 127 hours if u fell off. Eek!
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Totally missed out the little intermediate right at the top!, just watched your video and realised you used it for your left then popped again. Dave cleaned it up, he must have missed it when he abbed down!
I struggled to get my feet high, felt a bit bunched so I did the last move with a lower left foot and laid one on.
It wasn't in great nick, that sloper felt awful.
Great problem!, I'll post a video soon :)
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I was wondering if someone may just lay one on for the top. Good skills!
The only way I could hit the top was using that sloper and the intermediate pebble, build my feet and go again to the top. .
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If I'd have known it was there that's what I would have probably tried. It was a bit dodge laying one on at that height.
I reckon it's bang on the money grade wise. Good stuff.
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https://vimeo.com/57287482
Not a great video. A bit out of focus.
Not the prettiest of top outs as it was a bit damp up top.
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:thumbsup:
Nicely done. Super psyched it got repeated.
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Nice one, Will. Looks like you had the requisite amount of pads. Out of interest, did that make it quite fall offable or is it still a bit spicy?
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Effort Will :)
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With the amount of pads we had, fall wasn't too bad.. aslong as spotters were paying attention and stopped you going off the edges into the abyss below. :smart:
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whats the deal with TH these days then, is it regarded as a highball? If so, how hard?