UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Nike Air on November 26, 2012, 10:15:33 am
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Did a new route climbing the overhanging prow above the boulder problem 'Armistice'(left of the E5 Van Winkle) at Baildon Bank.
Low gear in The Big Curver and Van Winkle. Font 7c/+ slapping well above the pro.
Jordan Buys
Friday 23rd of Movember 2012.
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Holy crap, what a line! Effort!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=112694 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=112694)
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Nice dude. Is the Curver well out of reach then?
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Facebook image so usual viewing problems may apply:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/14210_10151154881143595_366520159_n.jpg)
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Nice one Jordan, the crags first E8, good skills and not one to fall off.
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strong line, good effort
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Nice! Is the mat not hung over the climbing at the start?
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Nice one Jordan. To use a bit of rhyming slang, it doesn't look "baildon bank" at all, looks pretty good.
P.S. hope the tickmarks got brushed off afterwards..... ;)
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Nice! Is the mat not hung over the climbing at the start?
oooooh... I sense a knee pad stylee debate coming on...
;)
ps - sweet effort.
pps - glad to see you wearing a helmet. Baildon Bank is the only crag in the world where I have had a rock fall and land on my head...
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https://vimeo.com/54315865
really independent climbing and yes that's a pad on the massive spike jug of the classic boulder problem below. I wasn't feeling like climbing E9 that day ;) or breaking the spike!!
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That looks awesome, nice one Jordan!
Just to ensure a dose of boredom, my crap physics knowledge is telling me that the gear set up is a bit wack. Mind you it looks useful for about two moves!
Just seen the video. Fucking hell, Jordan! That looks wild!
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https://vimeo.com/54315865
really independent climbing and yes that's a pad on the massive spike jug of the classic boulder problem below. I wasn't feeling like climbing E9 that day ;) or breaking the spike!!
Superb! Cool moves!
A knee bar, lots of high heels and that guppy looks mad!
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fuck thats steeper than it looks in the first photo! Bet you could take a nasty pisser off that.
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Brilliant. Gasped when your foot popped at the top. Great moves.
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I tried a fancy knee pad for that knee scum at 1.27 but it turned out better just having the jeans against the rock!!!..... :-\ :-\
Dave Sutcliffe filmed it from above with a swanky camera which is great quality compared to my offering. Hopefully put that up somewhere soon.
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Just to ensure a dose of boredom, my crap physics knowledge is telling me that the gear set up is a bit wack.
What's your concern? Without knowing what the actual placements are it looks fine to me. Ballsy bit o climbing, has anyone tried it before?
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Firstly, top effort J.
The problem with the gear arrangement is one sling clipped through two bits of gear "death triangle" style. Two probs:
- places 100 % load on both bits of gear.
- reduces strength of sling.
See here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle)
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Firstly, top effort J.
The problem with the gear arrangement is one sling clipped through two bits of gear "death triangle" style. Two probs:
- places 100 % load on both bits of gear.
- reduces strength of sling.
See here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle)
On the plus side if the directional force/tension holds the two pieces in place when otherwise they would fall out.....
Let us know what gear arrangement you use on your repeat ascent so though. :tease:
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I thought there were clove hitches at the biners, but it looks not.
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There's a lot of bollocks talked about this kind of stuff. Just because one setup is stronger than another does not make one 'death' and one 'safe'.
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Beast Of Baildon! Nice one, I like the knee-scum + double guppy move. Not enough of them at Baildon.
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Not enough of them anywhere!
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Strong bold mofo.
Fine effort.
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Let us know what gear arrangement you use on your repeat ascent so though. :tease:
Chill out. I was just answering the question from SA Chris.
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There's a lot of bollocks talked about this kind of stuff. Just because one setup is stronger than another does not make one 'death' and one 'safe'.
:agree:, but "Death Triangle" is only the name of the arrangement - not a cast iron prediction.
To be fair when you look at the comparisons, the "triangle" arrangement places approx 200+% of the load onto each anchor when compared to a V arrangement.
But as Slackers says - there are advantages for directional placments.
Sorry, prob the wrong thread for this discussion. :off: :spank:
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I think the problem is your post came across as the usual pointless UKC bullshit that will no doubt come up in a week or so when they exclusively break" this new story
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Ah I see. Sorry, I didn't mean for it to come across like that, I was just trying to answer SA Chris's question.
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I think Jordan probably knows what he was doing with the gear placements there though.
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Yep. Sure your right.
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I think the problem is your post came across as the usual pointless UKC bullshit that will no doubt come up in a week or so when they exclusively break" this new story
It's happening already on the other channel. Fuds.
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rosmat, I'm going to wad you for heroically taking 200+% of the flak for the comment originally made by me!
:2thumbsup:
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Ha I know, I considered pointing it out - but it somehow seemed like inappropriate snitching! :icon_welcome:
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I read Will's comments as "the gear appears to be so low as to be useless and what is that mat doing strapped onto the rocks?"
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Ha, that hadn't even occured to me Slackers, but now you say it I can see what you mean.
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its for multipitching it right?
fine effort looks awesome
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The better video is now online on the Moon climbing vimeo page thingy.
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jordan No Surrender on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/55006882)
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Superb!
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Crumbs! The double guppy looks powerful!
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That looks well ace, effort Jordan!
The problem with the gear arrangement is one sling clipped through two bits of gear "death triangle" style.
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I fail to see what gun crime has got to do with it: http://www.bradynetwork.org/site/MessageViewer?em_id=17381.0&printer_friendly=1 (http://www.bradynetwork.org/site/MessageViewer?em_id=17381.0&printer_friendly=1)
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Protection was needed as it's rough around those parts...